i^WJlWJlf WU'^ '(!'. 






HISTORICAL, 
TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND DESCRIITJVJ: 

VIEW 

OF THE 

UNITED STATES 

OF 

AMERICA, 

AND OF 

UPPER AND LOWER CANADA. 

WITH AN APPENDIX, . 

Containing a brief and comprehensive Sketch of 
THE PRESENT STATE OF 

MEXICO AND SOUTH AMERICA, 

AND ALSO OF THE 

NATIVE TRIBES OF THE NEW WORLD. 



COLLECTED, ARUANGED, AND DIGESTED, 

/worn ihe lest recent Authorities and original Cam-munieations, 

BY Ef MACKENZIE, 

Author of the History of Egypt, and Editor of the History of Northumberland, 
Select Biography, Statistic Tables, Modern Geography, &c. &c. 



Embellished and illustrated hy a large correct Map, a Plan of' 
the Citu of Wasliington, arid seven Jine Engravings. 



Newcastle upon Tijiie : 
rHINTED AND PUBLISHED BY MACKENZIE A KD DENT, 

i^T. Nicholas's church-yard. 




. ^ 



PREFACE. 



America, since she conquered her independence, 
has risen into importance with a rapidity unparal- 
leled in the history of mankind. In her plains and 
forests an industrious, enterprising, and intelligent 
population are daily creating new and extensive 
communities, and exhibiting the whole mystery of 
the generation as well as the growth of nations. 
The spectacle is imposing and instructive, notwith- 
standing the senseless ravings of animosity, or the 
affected sneers of a despicable enmity. 

This marvellous empire already embraces a range 
of territory above thirty times the extent of Great 
Britain ; and will, within one hundred and twenty 
years, if population increases in the same ratio as it 
has lately done, contain upwards of four hundred 
millions of human beings ! Yet, even then it would 
not be equally populous with England. Without 



IV , PllEFACE/. 

supposing the intervention of some great and im- 
probable political convulsion, no rational argument 
can be assigned why the capital and population of 
the Americans should not progressively accumulate, 
until the boundless extent of their fertile and unoc- 
cupied land be brought into cultivation. 

' Where,' exclaims a popular journalist, ' is this 
prodigious increase of numbers, this vast extension 
of dominion, to end? What bounds has Nature 
set to the progress of this mighty nation ? Let our 
jealousy burn as it may ; let our intolerance of 
America be as unreasonably violent as we please; 
still it is plain that she is a power, in spite of us, 
rapidly rishig to supremacy ; or, at least, that each 
year so mightily augments her strength, as to over- 
take, by a most sensible distance, even the most 
formidable of her competitors. In foreign com- 
merce, she comes nearer to England than any other 
maritime power; and already her mercantile navy 
is within a few thousand tons of our own ! If she 
goes on as rapidly for two or three years, she must 
overtake and outstrip us.' 

But instead of viewing every step America ad- 
vances in renown with absurd and groundless dis- 
may, England ought to rejoice in the growing 
strengtli and happiness of her daughter, who has 
become respectable and glorious by exercising the 
virtues of her parent. Their interests, whether 
mi>ra1, political, or commercial, are inseparably 



PREFACE. * V 

united;* and should hordes of barbarians again 
threaten the existence of liberty and civilization in 
the west of Europe, America may become the right 
arm of British strength, or perhaps the last asylum 
of British liberty.. 'When the nation,' says Dr. 
Smollett, 'is enslaved by domestic despotism, or 
foreign dominion; when her substance is wasted, 
her spirit broken, and the laws and constitution of 
England are no more ; then these colonies, sent off 
by our fathers, may receive and entertain their sons, 
as hopeless exiles and ruined refugees.' 

The writer has no intention of exhibiting emi- 
gration in a tempting and illusive point of view. 
Such attempts are certainly blameable, though their 
consequences are far from being alarming; for, 
under ordinary circumstances, the emigrants from 
any community must always bear a small propor- 
tion to the whole population. After all, says Dr. 
Smith, man is of all luggage the most difficult to 
be transported. 'In truth, he takes such root 
wherever he has been planted, that, long after al- 
most all nourishment has been extracted from it, 
we find him cling to the bare rocks, and rather 



* 'I'he eminent importance of the American trade is evinced by 
the fact, that of the whole exports from the United States in 181 6, 
one hidf went to Great Britain and her dominions ; and in 1815 the 
amount of goods imported was eighty-six millions of dollars, of 
which seventy-one millions was imported from Great Britain and 
her dependencies ! 



VI PREFACE. 

wither than be torn away. It is in vain to remind 
him how bleak the sky, how scanty the nutriment, 
how exposed to tempests tlie position. We find 
him rebuilding his cottage upon the half-cooled lava 
which has swept all his possessions away, and obsti- 
nately refusing to quit a spot of earth which the 
perpetual conflicts of the elements hardly leave at 
rest for a day.' He knows all his privations, his 
sufferings, his risks; but he deems it all not too 
high a price for the endearing idea of home — the 
love of country — and the thousand ties of society 
and friendship. Thus has Providence, by a power- 
ful instinct, provided against an excess of emigration. 

Let not the dissipated, the ambitious, the petu- 
lent, or the discontented, deceive themselves, and 
wander into other climates and situations in search 
of happiness. ' The wilds of America will yield no 
repose to their perturbed spirits. The fiends will 
migrate with them.' 

However, the industrious labourer, the mechanic, 
the farmer, the man of moderate capital, and the 
father of a family who feels solicitous about settling 
his children ; in short, all those who are prepared to 
encounter the numerous privations and inconve- 
niences of emigration, in order to enjoy the great 
and acknowledged advantages which America offers 
to adventurers, will find this work a Faithful 
AND Useful Guide. And this is extremely difii- 
cult to obtain, notwitlistanding the numerous, ex- 



PREFACE. Vll 

pensive, and valuable works recently published on 
the subject. Travellers and emigrants have viewed 
America with different feelings. Some observe 
every object with delight and admiration, while 
others experience all the chagrin of disappointment. 
It, however, has been the aim of the editor to com- 
pare with candour the contradictory evidence of 
different writers, and to draw such conclusions as 
the case seemed to justify. 

The editor has also paid particular attention to 
the rate of wages and of tbe markets, the expences 
of living, the comparative advantages of different 
states and settlements, and the cautions necessary 
to be observed by new settlers. The present state 
of the wealth and resources, and of the commercial 
regulations of the United States, is drawn entirely 
from authentic documents. 

The judicious reader will readily appreciate the 
attention and diligence employed in compiling this 
work, and acknowledge the value of the original 
matter which it contains ; and which embraces the 
substance of upwards of one hundred Letters lately 
received by different individuals from their corres- 
pondents in America. Some gentlemen have been 
in the habit of collecting copies of interesting letters 
from the New World; and the liberality with 
which the editor has been favoured with the loan of 
their MSS. merits his best thanks, and will in the 
proper place be acknowledged. 



Vm PREFACE. 

In collecting materials for this compilation, the 
editor has consulted every recent and valuable pub- 
lication on the present state of North America, and 
to which references will occasionally be made. Ex- 
clusive of the information derived through private 
channels, he has been most indebted to the following 
able and instructive works, viz. — 



Morse's American Geography. 

Maclure's Geology of the United States of America. 

Imlay and Filson's Account of Kentucky. 

Travels through the United States and Canada, by Isaac Weld, jun. 

Michaux's Travels in North America, 1 802. 

Grey's Letters from Canada, 1806, 7j and 8. 

Lambert's Travels through Canada and the United States, 1808. 

Travels in North America in 1809, 10, and 11, by John Brad- 
bury, F. L. S. 

Travels in Canada and the United States in 1816-7, by lieutenant 
Hall, 14th light di-agoons. 

Palmer's Journal of Travels in the United States of North America 
and in Lower Canada. 

Bristcd's Resources of the United States. 

Mellish's Travels and Directory through the United States for 1 81 8. 

Statistical View of the United States, by T. Pitkin, Representative 
from the State of Connecticut, 1817. 

Hints to Emigrants, by the Shamrock Society of New York, 1816. 

A Year's Residence in the United States, by Mr. Cobbett, 1818. 

Morris Birkbeck's Notes on a Journey in America, 1818. 

Letters from the Illinois, 1818. 

Fearon's Sketches in America, 1818. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 
GENERAL View of America I 
North America . 10 

South America . 18 



Pase 



Discovery and ancient popu- 
lation of America . 



25 



UNITED STATES. 



Bounc^aries 


35 Cataracts 


49 


Extent 


36 Canals 


52 


Divisions 


37 Forests 


53 


Climate 


3Q Swamps . . 


54 


Seasons 


40 Mineralogy . 


ib. 


Face of the Country 


ib. Mineral Waters 


64 


Soil . 


41 Botany 


. ib. 


Agriculture . 


42 Zoology 


68 


Rivers 


ib. Natural Curiosities 


78 


STATES AND TERRITORIES 


. 


- 


New England. 




Extent and Boundaries 


80 Natural Productions 


84. 


Face of the Country 


81 Manners and Customs 


86 


Rivers 


83 History 
Nexv Hampshire. 


89 


Natural Geography . 


93 Trade and Resources 


96 


Population 


94 Religion 


ib. 


Manners, &c. 


ib. Government 


ib. 


Ctief Towns 


95 History 


97 



CONTENTS. 



Massachusetts. 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 
Trade and Resources 



Page 
100 

ib. 
102 

ib. 
109 



Religion 

Education 

Government 

Islands 

History 



District of Maine. 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 



116 

ib. 

118 



Trade 

Government 

History 



Vermont. 

119 Chief Towns 

ib. Trade and Resources 

120 Government 



Page 
109 
110 
ib. 
Ill 
1J2 



118 
ib. 

ib. 



121 
ib. 
ib. 





Rhode Island. 




Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 
Ti'ade and Resources 


123 Education 
ib. Religion 

124 Government 

125 History 
127 

Connecticut. 


127 
128 

ib. 

ib. 


Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 
Education 


129 Trade and Resources 

ib. Religion 
131 Government 

ib. History 
133 

New York. 


133 
134 

ib. 

ib. 


Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 
Trade and Resources 


136 Education . 
ib. Religion 
138 Government 
140 Islands 
149 History 

New Jersey. 


149 
150 
151 
ib. 
152 


Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 


154 Trade and Resources 
lb. Education and Religi 

155 Government 
,156 History 


157 

on 158 

ib. 

ib. 



CONTENTS. 



xr 



Pemisylvama, 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Canal 

Population . 
Chief Towns 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Divisions 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geogi'aphy 
Population and Manners 
Chief ToAvns 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 
Trade and Resources 



PffgC 

159 
160 
164 
166 



Trade and Resources 
Education and Religion 
Government 
History 



Delaware. 

188 Trade and Resources 

189 Education . 
ib. Religion 

ib. Government 

190 History 

State of Ohio. 

191 Population . 

ib. Trade and Resources 
1 Q5 Government 

Indiana. 

208 Towns, &c. 
ib. Government 

Maryland. 

210 Trade 

ib. Education and Religion 

212 Government 

213 History 

Virginia. 

217 Education 

ib. Religion 

220 Government 

222 History 
224 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 



Kentvclcy. 

228 Trade and Resovu-ces 
ib. Education and Religion 

229 Government 
231 History 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 



North Carolina. 

239 Trade and Resources 

ib. Education and Religion 

241 Government 

243 History 



Page 

184 

ib. 

186 

ib. 



190 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 

191 



206 
ib. 
ib. 



209 
ib. 



215 
ib. 
ib. 

216 



224 

225 

226 

ib. 



236 
237 

ib. 

ib. 



243 
ib. 

244 
ib, 



Xll 



CONTENTS. 



South Carolina. 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towiis 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 
Trade and Resources 

The Florklas 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 

Upper Louisiana 



Situation aiid Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population 



Page 

246 

ib. 

252 

254 



Trade and Resources 
Education and Religion 
Government 
History 



Georgia. 



260 
ib. 

262 
263 
265 



Education 
Religion 
Government 
Histoiy 



Tennessee. 

272 Trade and Resources 
ib. Education and Religion 

273 Government 

274 History 

Louisiana. 

276 Trade and Resources 

ib. Religion 

279 Government 

280 History 



Mississippi. 
288 Chief Towns 

ib. Trade and Resources 
290 Government 



Alibama Territory. 

Situation and Extent 292 Commerce 

Natural Geography ib. Government 

Population . 294 History 

Towns . . 295 

Illinois. 

296 Towns 
ib. Government 
299 History 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population 



Page 

257 

258 

ib. 

259 



266 
ib. 

267 
ib. 



269 



274 
275 

ib. 

ib. 



283 
ib. 

284 
ib. 

287 



291 
ib. 
ib. 



295 

296 

ib. 



^99 
300 

ib. 



Situation and Extent 
Natviral Geography 
Population 



Michigan. 

301 Chief Town^s . 303 

ib. Manufactures and Commerce ib. 

303 History - . • 304 



CONTENTS. 



xm 



Situation and Extent 
Natural Geography 
Population 



Missouri Territory. 

Page 

304 Chief Towns 

305 Commerce 

306 Government 



Pase 

306 

308 

ib. 



North-west Territory. 

Situation and Extent 309 Population and Manners 312 

Natural Geography 

Columbia Settlement 



ib. Towns 



313 



313 



Columbia Territory. 

Situation and Extent 316 Georgetown . 328 
Natural Geography 317 Alexandria . ib. 
Population . 318 General Description of Wash- 
City of Washington ib. ington . . 329 



State and Resources of the United States. 

337 Post-office Establishment 

339 Federal Government 

34-7 Territorial Governments 

374 Judiciary 

385 Revenue and Debt 

388 War Department 

395 Navy Department . 

400 Mint Establishment 
Historical Summaiy 



Population 

Education, Arts, &c. 

Manners and Habits 

Religion 

Public Lands 

Agriculture 

Manufactures 

Commerce 

Canals and Turnpike Roads 413 



respecting the 



Directions 

Voyage 
On the Preservation 

Health . . 454 

The best Mode of Settling 456 
Prices of Land, Labour, 

and Provisions . 463 

— at New York „ ib. 

Philadelphia . 470 

Alexandria . 472 

Pittsburg . ib. 

Ohio . . 473 

— — Albany . 474 
■ Western Country ib. 
State of New York 477 



Advice to Emigrants. 

Prices in Pennsylvania 

445 Kentucky 

of Illinois 

New England 



Civil Rights of Settlers 
Prospects of Emigrants 

— Gentlemen 

— Farmers 

— Merchants and Manufac- 
turers 

— Mechanics 

— Labourers 

— Artists 
Conclusion 



415 
416 
420 
423 
425 
428 
431 
435 
436 



477 
479 
480 
481 
482 
494 
ib. 
504 

531 
533 
5S4> 
54>2 
544 



Xk^ 



CONTENTS. 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 



Divisions 


. 


. 


Page 
54^ 




Canada. 




Extent 

Climate and Seasons 

Natural Geography 

Population 

Manners and Customs 

Language 

Towns 

Commerce . 


546 
ib. 
549 
551 
552 
556 
ib. 
562 


Religion 

Government 

Military Force 

Revenue 

History 

District of Gaspe 

Remarks 


563 
ib. 

565 
ib, 
ib. 

567 

568 


New Brunswick . 






569 


Nova Scotia 




. 


570 


Cape Breton 

Prince Edward's Island 




• 


571 

572 


Neiofoimdland 
Bermudas 




5 


573 
575 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 



Extent 

Climate 

Face of the Country 

Rivers 

Lakes 

Mountains 

Botany and Zoology 

Mineralogy 

Natural Curiosities 

Population . 

Manners and Customs 



576 Language 

577 Education 
ib. Cities 

ib. Trade 

578 Religion 

579 Government 

580 Army 

581 Navy 

582 Revenue 

583 History 
ib. 



587 
ib. 
588 
590 
592 
59^ 
595 

591 

ib. 

598 



SOUTH AMERICA. 



Spanish Dominions. 



Extent and Boundaries 

Zoology 

Botany 


606 

607 
608 


Language 
Cities 
Commerce . 


6l4r 

615 
631 


Mineralogy 
Population . 
Manners and Customs 


609 
611 
612 


Government 
History 


635 
636 



CONTENTS. 



XV 



Portuguese Dominions. 



Extent and Boundaries 
Mines 
Agriculture 

Population and Manners 
Chief Towns 



French Dominions 



Demerary 
Essequebo 



Page Page 

666 Trade and Commerce 685 

667 Government and Revenue 687 
672 Army . . ib. 
676 History . . ib. 
677 

689 



English Dominions. 

691 Berbice 
6Q5 Surinam 



Paraguay 
Patagonia 
Islands 



695 
696 

6'98 

ib. 

699 



NATIVE TRIBES 



701 



DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. 



Map oftlie United States^ 




To face the Title. 


•Falls of Niagara 


- 


49 


The Rock Bridge 


- 


75 


Country round Pittsburg 


- 


177 


Mount Vernon 


- 


224 


City of Washington 


- 


319 


'Capitol of Washington - 


- 


320 


Bank of the United States 


- 


325 


American Stage Waggon 


~ 


416 



GKNERAL 



VIEW OF AMERICA. 



"PREVIOUS to entering upon a detailed description of the 
great American commonwealth, it will be proper to take 
a general view of the extensive continent of which it forms a 
part, and of the epochg of the various discoveries. 

America, or, as it is frequently denominated by way of emi- 
nence, the New World, has, in many respects, been pecu- 
liarly favoured by nature; and seems destined, in the course 
of human affairs, to assume an important rank, both natural 
and political. 

The first circumstance that strikes us on viewing the New 
World is its immense extent. It constitutes a new hemisphere, 
larger than either Europe, Asia, or Africa, the three noted 
dinsions of the ancient condnent; and is not much inferior in 
dimensions to a third ^art of the habitable globe. 

The division of this continent into two parts, called North 
and South America, is strongly marked by the hand of nature, 
in a narrow isthmus, and by a great variety in the languages 
and manners of the original inhabitants. The general consi- 
deration of this quarter of the globe will, therefore, receive far 
more clearness and precision by being thus divided. Those 
authors who blend the whole into one description confound their 
topics by a heterogeneous mixture. 

B 



10 GENERAL VIEW 

The southern limit of the American continent is clearly esti- 
mated from the strait of Magellan ; -but the northern extent is 
not ascertained with equal precision. Its limit may extend to 
80 degrees, or perhaps to the pole. The journies of Hearne 
and Mackenzie have, indeed, imparted some idea of its confines 
on the Arctic ocean ; but Baffin's bay remains to be explored, 
except the late discovery ships have effected part of this desi- 
dei'atum in geography. Amidst existing uncertainties, it will, 
however, be sufficient to estimate the northern limit of America 
from the 72d degree of north latitude ; a space of 126 degrees. 
In South America the greatest breadth is from cape Blanco in 
the west to St. Roque in the east, which, according to the best 
maps, is 48 degrees. But in the north the breadth may be 
computed from the promontory of Alaska to the most eastern 
point of Labrador, or even of Greenland, which would add 
more than a third part of the estimate. In British miles the 
length of America may be estimated at 8800 ; and the breadtli 
of North America at 4400, and that of the southern continent 
at 3200. 

NOllTH AMERICA. 

Climate. — The climate of North America is extremely va- 
rious, as may be conceived in a region extending from the, 
vicinity of the equator to the arctic circle. In general, the 
heat of summer, and the cold of winter, are move intense than 
in most parts of the ancient continent. The predominant 
winds are here from the west ; and the severest cold is from 
the north-west. The middle provinces are remarkable for the 
unsteadiness of the weather, particularly the quick transitions 
from heat to cold. Snow falls plentifully in Virginia, but sel- 
dom lies above a day or two; yet after a mild, or even warm 
day, James river, where it is two or three miles in breadth, 
has in one night been clothed with ice, so as to be passed by 
travellers. Such surprising alterations seem to proceed from 
the sudden change of the wind to the north-west. The pro- 
vinces of South Carolina and Florida ai'e subject to unsuft'era- 
ble heat, furious whirlwinds, hurricanes, tremendous thunder. 



OF AMERICA. 11 

and fatal lightnings ; and the sudden changes of the weather 
are alike pernicious to the human frame. A violent tufFoon 
happened near Charlestown in 1761, appearing like a column 
of smoke, with a noise like thunder, ploughing the very beds 
of the rivers, and diffusing universal destruction throughout 
its progress. Few opportunities have yet arisen for accurate 
accounts of the climate in the western parts of North xVmerica. 
That of California seems to be in general moderate and plea- 
sant, though somewhat incommoded by the heat of sunmier. 
In lat. 59 deg. the land has a most barren and Avintry appear- 
ance, even in June : the gloom is increased by frequent fogs, 
and the glaciers seem perpetual. 

Inland Seas. — Among the inland seas of North America 
may be mentioned the gulfs of Mexico, California, and St. 
Lawrence; with Hudson''s and Baffin's bays. Of all these 
seas the gulf of Mexico is the most celebrated, as lying in a 
more favourable climate, and presenting at its entrance that 
grand archipelago of North American islands called the West 
Indies. From this gulf a singular current sets towards the 
north-east : this current, called the gulf stream, passes to the 
banks of Newfoundland, and is supposed to proceed from the 
accumulation of waters by the trade wind. It is distinguished 
from other parts of the ocean by the gulf weed ; is eight or 
ten degrees warmer ; never sparkles in the night ; and, when 
it arrives in cool latitudes, produces thick fogs. The trade 
wind, or diurnal sea breeze, is from the east and its collateral 
points, with little intermission, for nine months in the year. 
To the south of the gulf of Mexico is the bay of Honduras, 
well known in the annals of English commerce. The opposite 
shore presents the gulf of California, which seems an estuary 
of two large rivers. 

The gulf of St. Lawrence is the well known estuary of a 
river of the same name, generally frozen from December to 
April. This noble gulf is closed by the island of Newfound- 
land, and by numerous sand-banks, particularly what is called 
the Great IJank. This celebrated fishing station is more than 
400 miles in length, by about 140 in breadth ; the water being 
from ^2 to 50 fathoms, with a great swell, and frequently a 



12 GENERAL VIEW 

thick fog. The chief fishery begins on the 10th of May, and 
continues till the end of September ; the greatest number of 
cod fish taken by a single fisherman being twelve thousand, 
but the average is seven thousand : the largest fish was four 
feet three inches in length, and weighed forty-six pounds. 
More than 500 English vessels commonly fish on the bank. 
By a late regulation, the Americans are prohibited from fishing 
here ; but permission is given to the subjects of Louis XVIII. 
There are also great fisheries on the banks which lie off the 
coasts of Nova Scotia. 

Hudson sea ext€nds from the entrance westward 1050 Bri- 
tish miles; thus exceeding the Baltic in length as well as 
breadth. The shores are generally rocky and precipitous, and 
the climate almost the perpetual abode of winter. Davis' gulf 
or sea may be considered as part of Hudson's sea, and proba- 
bly joins the arctic ocean. Bafihi's bay is 870 British miles in 
length, and nearly as much in breadth. 

Lakes.-^The lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron, consti- 
tute one large inland sea, which might be called the sea of 
Canada, or that of Huron. This expansion of water is about 
350 miles in length, and more than 100 at its greatest breadth. 
Lake Superior is not less than 1500 miles in circumference. 
The greater part of the coast seems to consist of rocks and 
uneven ground. The water is pure and transparent ; and the 
bottom generally composed of large rocks. There are several 
islands, one of which called Miiiong is about 60 miles in 
length : the savages suppose that these islands are residences 
of the Great Spirit. More than thirty rivers fall into this 
lake, some of them of considerable size. The chief fish are 
stursreon and trout; the latter beinu" cahghtat all seasons, and 
said to weigh from twelve to fifty pounds. This part of the 
Bca of Canada opens into the lake Huron, by the straits of St. 
Mary, about 40 miles in length, and in some places only one 
or two miles in breadth ; with a rapide towards the north-west 
extremity, which may, however, be descended by canoes ; and 
the prospects are here delightful. The storms on this large 
expanse of water are as dangerous as those on the ocean, the 
waves breaking more quick, and rumiing nearly as high, The 



OF AMERICA. 13 

circumference of that part called lake Huron is said to be 
about 1000 miles ; and on the northern side are some islands 
called Manatulan, implying the place of spirits. Another 
short strait leads into the third lake, called Michagan, also 
navigable for ships of any burthen. When the population of 
North America shall have diffused itself towards the west, 
these lakes may become the seats of flourishing cities, and of 
arts and sciences now unknown in Europe. Their latitude 
corresponds with that of the Black sea and the gulf of Venice ; 
nor are the rigours of the Baltic here to be apprehended. 
From the descriptions, it does not appear that these lakes are 
ever impeded with ice. 

The lake of Winnipeg or Winipic may also well aspire to 
the name of an inland sea : but it yields considerably to the 
great Slave lake, or rather sea, a recent discovery, from which 
Mackenzie's river extends its course to the arctic ocean. The 
Slave sea, according to ]\Ir. Arrowsmith's maps, is about 200 
miles in length, by 100 at its greatest breadth. 

The smaller lakes shall be briefly described in the divisions 
of territory to which they belong. It may here suffice to ob- 
serve, that there are probably above two hundred lakes of 
considerable size in North America ; a singularity which dis- 
tinguishes it, from any other portion of the globe. 

Rivers. — All the features of nature in America are upon a 
grand scale. The rivers are peculiarly noble. The source of 
the Mississippi has been traced to three small lakes above lat. 
47 deg. and it enters the sea in lat. 29 deg. after a comparative 
course of about 2000 British miles. Nay, of late, the sources 
of the Missouri (the chief stream) have been detected abouC 
3000 British miles more 'remote. The account of this noble 
river shall be transcribed fi*om a recent system of American 
geography, by Mr. Morse, wlio must have had several oppor- 
tunities of being well informed. 

' The Mississippi receives the waters of the Ohio and Illi- 
nois, and their numerous branches from the east ; and of the 
Missouri and other rivers from the west. These mighty 
streams united are borne down with increasing majesty, through 
vast forests and meadows, and discharged into the gulf of 



14 GENERAL VIEW 

Mexieo. The great length and uncommon depth of this river, 
says Mr. Hutchins, and the excessive muddiness and salu- 
brious quality of its waters after its junction with the Missouri, 
are very singular. The direction of the channel is so crooked, 
that from New Orleans to the mouth of the Ohio, a distance 
which does not exceed 460 miles in a straight line, is aboiit 
856 by water. 

' In the spring floods, the Mississippi is very high, and the 
current so strong, that it is with difficulty it can be ascended ; 
but this disadvantage is remedied in some measure by eddies, 
or counter currents, which are generally found in the bends 
close to the banks of the river, and assist the ascending boats. 
The current at this season descends at the rate of about five 
miles an hour. In autumn, when the waters are low, it does 
not run faster than two miles ; but it is rapid in such parts of 
the river as have clusters of islands, shoals, and sand banks. 
The circumference of many of these shoals being several miles, 
the voyage is longer, and in some places more dangerous, than 
in the spring. The merchandise necessary for the commerce 
of the Upper Settlements, on or near the Mississippi, is con- 
veyed in the spring and avitumn, in batteaux, rowed by 
eighteen or twenty men, and carrying about forty tons. From 
New Orleans to the Illinois the voyage is commonly performed 
in eight or ten weeks. A prodigious number of islands, some 
of which are of great extent, intersperse that mighty river. 
Its waters, after overflowing its banks below the river Ibber^. 
ville on the east, and the river Rouge on the west, never re- 
turn within them again, there being many outlets or streams * 
by which they are conducted into the bay of Mexico, more 
especially on the west side of the Mississippi, dividing the 
country into numerous islands. These singularities distinguish 
it from every other known river in the world. The island of 
New Orleans, and the lands opposite, are to all appearance of 
no long date, having evidently been formed by the mud and 
trees carried down the river, and having an appearance similar 
to the Delta in Egypt. 

< Nothing can be asserted with certainty respecting the length 
of the rivef. Its source is not known, but supposed to be ujv 



OF AMERICA. 15 

wards of three thousand miles from the sea as the river runs. 
We only know that from St. Anthony's falls in lat. 45 deg. it 
glides with a pleasant clear current, and receives many large 
and tributary streams, before its junction with the Missouri, 
without greatly increasing the breadth of the Mississippi, 
thougli they do its depth and rapidity. The muddy waters 
of the Missiiuri discolour tho lower part of the river, till it 
empties into the bay of Mexico. The Missouri is a longer, 
broader, and deeper river than the Mississippi, and affords a 
more extensive navigation ; it is, in fact, the principal river, 
contributing more to the common stream than does the Mis- 
sissippi. 

' The slime which the annual floods of the river Mississippi 
leave on the surface of the adjacent shores, may be compared 
with thjit of the Nile, which deposits a similar manure, and for 
many centuries past has insured the fertility of Egypt. When 
its banks shall have been cultivated, as the excellency of its 
soil and temperature of the climate deserve, its population will 
equal that of any other part of the world. The trade, wealth, 
and power of America may at some future period depend, and 
perhaps centre, upon the Mississippi. Whoever will for a 
moment cast his eye over a map of the town of New Orleans, 
and the immense country around it, and view its advantageous 
situation, must be convinced that it, or some place near it, 
must in process of time become one of the greatest marts in 
the world. 

' The Ohio is a most beautiful river. Its current gentle, 
waters clear, and bosom smooth and unbroken by rocks and 
rapids, a single instance only excepted. It is one quarter of a 
mile wide at fort Pitt; 500 yards at the mouth of the Great 
Kanaway ; 1200 yards at Louisville ; and the rapids half a 
mile in some few places below Louisville: but its general 
breadth does not exceed 600 yards. In some places its width 
is not 400 ; and in one place particularly, far below the rapids, 
it is less than SOO. Its breadth in one place exceeds 1200 
yards ; and at its junction with the Mississippi, neither river 
is more than 900 yards wide.' 



16 GENERAL VIEW 

Mr. Morse states the precise measurement of the length of 
the Ohio, with all its windings, from fort Pitt to Its junction 
with the Mississippi; amounting to 1188 miles. The inun- 
dations commonly begin with April, and subside in July. A 
vessel drawing twelve feet water might safely navigate from 
Pittsburg to the sea. Two great rivers unite to form the 
Ohio, namely, the Monongahela and the Allegany, both of 
them subservient to navigation. 

From this it appears that the Missouri is the chief river of 
what is called the Mississippi. Charlevoix has described the 
confluence as the grandest in the world. Each river is about 
half a league in breadth ; but the Missouri is the broadest 
and most rapid ; and Mr. Hutchins observes, that the natives 
still call it Meschasipi. The same author adds, that the Mis- 
souri ' affords a more extensive navigation, and is a longer., 
broader, and deeper river than the Mississippi.' 

The noble river of St. Lawrence is universally regarded as 
the second in North America, being not less than 90 miles 
wide at its mouth, and navigable for ships of the line as far as 
Quebec, a distance of 400 miles from the sea. Near Quebec 
it is five miles in breadth ; and at Montreal from two to four. 
Though there be some rapids, yet this grand river may be 
considered as navigable to Kingston, and the lake Ontario, 
743 miles from the sea. It is difficult to define the precise 
source of the St. Lawrence, though that name be generally 
confined to the river issuing from lake Ontario; while the 
Niagara, which flows from the lake Erie, is regarded as a dis- 
tinct stream. The lengtli of the St. Lawrence may therefore 
be above 700 British miles, the breadth being the grand cha- 
racteristic. 

The other chief rivers in North America are the Saskashawin, 
the Athabasca, the Unjiga or Mackenzie's river, the Rio Bravo, 
which flows into the gulf of Mexico ; that of Albany, which 
joins Hudson's bay : Nelson river and Churchill river are also 
considerable streams which flow into that sea;. but their geo- 
graphy is far from being perfect. The same observation must 
be extended to the Oregan, or great river of the west, which 



OF AMERICA. 17 

confined by a chain of mountains, runs south, till by a western 
bend it join the Pacific. But the discovery of the western re- 
gions of America raav disclose some considerable streams in 
that quarter. 

Mountains. — The centre of North America seems to present 
a vast fertile plain, watered by the Missouri and its auxihary 
streams. On the west, so far as discovered, a range of moun- 
tains proceeds from New Mexico in a northern direction, and 
joins the ridge called the Stoney Mountains, which extend to 
the vicinity of the arctic ocean. The Stoney Mountains are 
said to be about 3500 feet above their base, which may per- 
haps be 3000 feet above tlie sea. In general, from the ac- 
counts of navigators who have visited this coast, it seems to 
resemble that of Norway, being a wide alpine country of gi-eat 
extent ; while the shore, like that of Norway, presents innu- 
merable creeks and islands. This -alpine tract, from the Stoney 
Mountains and Mackenzie's river westwards to the source of 
the Oregan and Beering's strait, may perhaps contain the 
highest mountains in North America, when explored by the 
eye of science. On the north-east, Greenland, Labi-ador, and 
the countries around Hudson sea, present irregular masses 
covered with eternal snow, with black naked peaks, resembling 
in form the spires of the Alps, but of far inferior elevation, 
mountains generally decreasing in lieight towards the pole. 
Mr, Mackenzie observes, that a high ridge passes south-west 
from the coast of Labrador to the source of the Utawas, divid- 
ing the rivers that fall into the St. Lawrence and Hudson's 
bay. The Stoney Mountains run paral'lcl with the Pacific 
ocean from Cook's entry to the river Columbia, where diey are 
more distant from the coast and less elevated. 

The most celebrated mountains in North America are those 
called the Apalachian, passing through the territory of the 
United States from the south-west to the north-east. Accord- 
ing to the best maps, they comnience on the north of Georgia, 
where they give source to many rivers running south to tlie 
gulf of Mexico ; and to the Tenassee and other i-ivers running 
north. There are several collateral ridges, as the Iron or Bald 
Mountains, the White Oak Mountains, and others ; the exte- 

C 



18 GENERAL VIEW 

rior skirt on the north-west being the Cumberland Mountains^ 
The Apalachian chain thence extends through the western 
territory of Virginia, accompanied with its collateral ridges^ 
the breadth of the whole being often seventy miles, and pro- 
ceeds through Pennsylvania; then passes Hudson river; and 
afterwards rises to more elevation, but seems to expire m the 
country of New Brunswick. The chief summits appear to be 
in the province of New Hampshire, where the White Moun- 
tains are by some reported to be 9000 feet above the sea. But 
it may well be affirmed that they cannot much exceed 4000 
feet : and the glaciers of the Pyrenees at 9000 feet shew the 
futility of the calculation. 

The Apalachian chain may thus extend about 900 geogra- 
phical miles, a length imrivalled by any European mountains, 
except the Norwegian alps. In no chain perhaps are the col- 
lateral ridges more distinct; and a naturalist would at once 
pronounce that the central, or highest, must be granitic, the 
next schistose, and the exterior belts calcareous. The height 
of the chief summits does not appear to be precisely ascertain- 
ed, but probably does not exceed 3000 feet above the sea ; 
and they are often clothed with forests. 

The mountains in the isthmus, as well as those in the west- 
ern part of North America, are certainly of far superior eleva- 
tion : and in most maritime divisions of the old and new 
continents, the highest mountains are towards the west, as 
their most pi'ecipitous sides uniformly front the west and south. 
But of the isthmus, the kingdom of Mexico, and California, 
the natural history and geography are far from being clearly 
illustrated. 

Such are the most striking and peculiar features of natin-e 
in the North American continent. The botany, mineralogy, 
and zoology of this grand division of the New World, will be 
detailed when we come to exhibit the natural history of the 
United States. 

SOUTH AMERICA. 

Climate. — The boundaries and extent of this division of ihe 
»ew continent have been already explained. The climate of 



OF AMEBICA. 19 

the southeni extremity, extending far beyond that of Africa, 
is exposed to all the horrors of the antarctic frosts ; and Terra 
del Fuego in the south lat. of 55 deg. seems exposed to the 
almost perpetual winter of Greenland in north lat. 70 deg. 
Patagonia, consisting mostly of opeh deserts and savannas, 
with a few willow trees on the rivers, seems to enjoy a tempe- 
rate but rather cool climate. On proceeding towards the 
north, the great chain of the Andes constitutes real zones and 
climates, which strangely contradict the theories of ancient 
geographers ; the chief inconveniences of the torrid zone being 
extreme cold on the mountains, and extreme moisture in the 
plains. Near Callao the months of October and November 
form the spring. In Peru what is called summer is the dry 
season, often extremely cold ; and the rainy season is called 
winter. The former begins in May, which is nearly the be- 
ginning of winter in the lower parts, and continues till Novem- 
ber, w4ien the slight fogs, called winter in the vales, begin to 
disperse. On the mountains winter begins in December, which 
in the plains is the first month of summer ; and a journey of 
four hours conducts the traveller from one season to another. 
At Quito, situated between two chains of the Andes, on a plain, 
of remarkable elevation, the months from September to May 
or June constitute the winter, and the other months the sum- 
mer ; the former being exposed to almost constant rains, which 
are also frequent, but at longer intervals, during the summer 
season. At Carthagena the winter, or rainy season, extends, 
on the contr-ary, from May to November ; and the summer, 
or dry season, from December to April. At Panama the 
summer begins rather later, and ends sooner. At Lima, in a 
southern latitude corresponding with the northern of Cartha- 
gena, the heat is far more moderate ; and spring begins with 
December, winter with July : the sunmier is iu February, th« 
autumn in May. 

In general, the confined regions on the west of the Andes 
are dry, the clouds being arrested by their summits; while 
the wide countries on the east of the chain are exposed to tor- 
rents of rain, from the eastern or trade winds blowing over 
the Atlantic. In Brazil the rainy se^ason begins in March or 



20 GENERAL VIEW 

April, and ends in August, when the spring begins, or rather 
the summer ; the distinction being only between wet and dry 
seasons. 

LaJiCS.—lSio part of the globe displays so great a number of 
lakes as North America ; and the southern part of the new 
continent is perhaps equally remarkable by their rarity. Many 
supposed lakes, as that of Zarayos or Sharayos, in the course 
of the river Paraguay, only exist during the annual inunda- 
tions, which are on a far grander scale than those of the Gan- 
ges, and may be said to deluge whole provinces. In the most 
northern part the lagoon of Maracaybo is remarkable, being a 
circular bason about 100 British miles in diameter, receiving 
numerous rivers and rivulets, and communicating with the sea 
by a considerable creek. The celebrated lake Parima, called 
also Paranapitinca, or the White sea, is represented by La 
Cruz as more than 100 British miles in length by 50 in breadth. 
This size, and even its existence, have been doubted, as it was 
the seat of the noted city El Dorado, the streets of which were 
paved with gold ; a fable which seems to have arisen from a 
rock of talc reflecting, like a mirror, the golden rays of the sun. 
In Amazonia and Brazil there do not appear to be any 
lakes of consequence. That of Titiaca, in the kmgdom of 
Peru, is regarded as the most important in Soutli America. 
Ulloa says tliat it is of an oval figure, the circumference about 
240 miles; and the depth 70 or 80 fathoms. It receives ten 
or twelve rivers and several rivulets ; but the water, though 
not saline, is nauseous, being probably tainted with sulphur 
or bitumen. It contains two kinds of fish, and is frequented 
by geese and wild fowl. In an isle of this lake, Mango Capac, 
thelbunder of the Peruvian monarchy, reported that the sun, 
his father, had placed him, with his sister, and consort, Oello; 
and l^ere a temple was dedicated to the sun, the most splendid 
in the kingdom, and profusely decorated with plates of gold 
and silver. On the Spanish invasion, these treasures are said 
to have been thrown into the lake. 

\ few small lakes are found near the course of the river 
Parana; and towards the south of Chih there are some of 
considerable size. 



OF AMERICA. 21 

Rivers. — The river of Amazons, so called from a female 
tribe inured to arms, discovered ou its banks by the first navi- 
gators, but more properly by a native term, the Maranon, is 
celebrated as the most distinguished river, not onlv in South 
America, but in the whole world : and this reputation is no 
doubt just, when its magnitude is considered. The source is 
not yet absolutely ascertained. The original and proper Ma- 
ranon is supposed to be the Apurimac, which joins another 
large river west of the great lake Titicaca, south lat. 16 deg. 
30 min. This iioble river, in struggling through the Andes, 
must afford many striking scenes still lost to scientific observa- 
tion. Ulloa calculates the course of the Maranon at 3800 
miles ; but it is probably much more. Like the Missouri and 
St. Lawrence, the Maranon is discoloured with mud. The 
breadth at the Portuguese boundary is said to be a league, 
but it is generally about two miles ; and no bottom is found at 
103 fathoms. The effect of the tides is perceivable at the dis- 
tance of 600 miles, but Condamine thinks that the swell is 
occasioned by the progress of the tide the preceding day. The 
banks are generally crowned with vast forests of lofty trees, 
among which are many of a rare and medicinal nature. Ser- 
pents of prodigious size are found in the marshes, and allio-a- 
tors ai'e also common. It seems certain, from the disquisition 
of Condamine, that some female warriors still exist towards 
the north of this great river. After it has received the Shino-u. 
the breadth from shore to shore cannot be discovered by the 
eye. Near its mouth the Bore rises from twelve to fifteen feet 
in height ; and the noise of this irruption is heard at the dis- 
tance of two leagues. 

The Rio de la Plata, or river of Silver, is the conjunct flood 
of the Paraguay, the PilcomayO, the Parana, and the Urucuay, 
The main sti-eams are the Paraguay and the Parana ; and it 
would seem that the latter is the longest and most considerable, 
rising in the great mine mountains of Brazil, lat. 19 deo-., and 
bending south, then west, till it receive the Iba Parana, after 
which it bends south-west till it is joined by the Paraguay, 
while the "conjunct rivers are still called the Parana by the na- 
tives, and the Rio de la Plata by the Spaniards. The grand 



22 GENERAL VIEW 

cataract of the Parana is in lat. 24 deg. not far from the city 
of Cuayra ; but is rather a series of rapids, for a space of 
twelve leagues, amidst rocks of tremendous and singular forms. 
This noble river is also studded with numerous islands ; and 
the Spanish vessels navigate to the town of Assumption, about 
1200 miles from the sea. The breadth of the estuary is such, 
that the land cannot be discovered from a ship in the middle 
of the stream. 

The third great river in South America is the Orinoco, of a 
most singular and perplexed course. According to La Cruz, 
it rises in the small lake of Ipava, north lat. 5 deg. 5 min. ; 
and thence winds almost in a spiral form, until it enter the 
Atlantic ocean by an extended delta opposite to the isle of 
Trinidad ; but the chief estuary is considerably to the south- 
east of that island. Many rivers of great size flow into the 
Orinoco ; and in addition to its singular form, there are other 
remarkable peculiarities. There exists a communication be- 
tween the Orinoco, the Maranon, and the Black river ; a cir- 
cumstance so uncommon, that when it only had been asserted 
by Spanish authors, it was rejected by geographical theorists 
as contrary to the usual course of nature. Little doubt can 
now remain concerning diese wonderful inland navigations, 
thus prepared by the hand of nature, and which, in the pos- 
session of an industrious people, would render Guiana, or New 
Andalusia, one of the most flourishing countries in the wovld. 

The other rivers of South America are comparatively of 
small account, the chief being the Magdalena, running north 
to the Caribbean sea ; and that of St. Francis, which waters a 
great part of Brazil. To the south of the great Parana there 
is the river Mendoza, and the Rio de los Sauzes, or river of 
Willows ; followed in the furthest south by the Chulclau and 
the Gallegos, the last entering the Pacific opposite to the Ma- 
louin or Falkland islands. 

Mountains. — The mountains of South America constitute 
some of the grandest objects in natural geography, being not 
only the most lofty on the face of the globe, but intermixed, 
with volcanoes of the most sublime and terrific description. 
The extent is also prodigious, the Andes stretching in one line 



OF AMERICA. 2S 

from the capes of Isidro and Pilares, in the southjern extremity 
of the continent, to the west side of the gulf of Darien, a space 
of not less than 4600 miles, as they generally follow the wind- 
ings of the coast, at the medial distance of about 100 miles. 
The chief summits are near the equator, not far from the city 
of Quito. 

The highest part of the American alps is Chimborazo, about 
100 miles south of Quito. It is computed to be 20,280 feet 
above the level of the sea. The next in height is supposed to 
be tlie volcano called Cotopasha, estimated at about 18,600 
feet, about twenty-five miles to the south-east of Quito. — 
Humboldt, a French naturalist, says there are three remarka- 
ble chains of mountains, which proceed from west to east, 
parallel to the equator. Several branches extend northward 
from the great chain in the high plain of Quito. The greatest 
height in the province of St. Marta is 14,000 feet. Several 
mountains of this chain are perhaps equal in height to Mont 
Blanc ; perpetually covered with snow, and often pouring from 
their sides streams of boiling sulphureous water : and the high- 
est peaks are solitary amidst mountains of little height. That 
of Merida is near the plain of Caracas, which is only 260 feet 
above the sea. The second chain divides the waters that fall 
into the Esquibo and Orinoco ; and is inhabited by a number 
of savage tribes, little or not at all known in Europe. The 
third chain unites the Andes of Peru and Chili with the 
mountains of Brazil and Paraguay. 

Between these three great ridges are, according to our au- 
thor, three immense vallies ; that of Orinoco, that of the river 
of Amazons, and that of the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, from 
19 to 52 deg. south lat., all opening to the east, but shut on 
the west l)y the Andes. The middle valley, or that of the 
Amazons, is covered with forests so thick, that the rivers alone 
form roads ; while those of Orinoco and Pampas are savannas, 
or grassy plains, with a few scattered palms; and so level, 
that sometimes tor 800 square leagues there is no inequality 
above eioht or ten inclics in height. 

On reviewing the grand physical features of the New V/orld, 
its fine adaptation lor commercial intercourse is very striking. 



24 GENERAL VIEW 

* The gulf of Mexico," says Dr. Robertson, ' which flows °m 
between North and South America, may be considered as a 
Mediterranean sea, which opens a maritime commerce with all 
the fertile countries by which it is encircled. The islands 
scattered in it are inferior only to those in the Indian archipe- 
lago, in number, in magnitude, and in value. As we stretch 
along the northern division of the American hemisphere, the 
bay of Chesapeake presents a spacious inlet, which conducts 
the navigator far into the interior parts of provinces no less 
fertile than extensive ; and if ever the progress of culture and 
population shall mitigate the extreme rigour of the climate in 
the more northern districts of America, Hudson's bay may 
become as subservient to commercial intercourse in that quar- 
ter of the globe, as the Baltic is in Europe. The other great 
portion of the New World is encompassed on every side by 
the sea, except one narrow neck, which separates the Atlantic 
from the Pacific ocean ; and though it be not opened by spa- 
cious bays or arms of the sea, its interior parts are rendered 
accessible by a number of large rivers, fed by so many auxili- 
ary streams, flowing in such various directions, that, almost 
without any aid from the hand of industry and art, an inland 
navigation may be carried -on through all the provinces from 
the river de la Plata to the gulf of Paria. Nor is this bounty 
of nature confined to the southern division of America; its 
northern continent abounds no less in rivers which are naviga- 
ble almost to their sources, and by its immense chain of lakes 
provision is made for an inland communication, more extensive 
and commodious than in any quarter of the globe. The 
countries stretching from the gulf of Darien on one side, to 
that of California on the other, which form the chain that 
binds the two parts of the American continent together, are 
not destitute of peculiar advantages. Their coast on one side 
is washed by the Atlantic ocean, on the other by the Pacific. 
Some of their rivers flow into the former, some into the latter^ 
and secure to them all the commercial benefits that may result 
from a communication with both.' 



OF AMERICA. 



DTSCOVERY AND ANCIENT POPULATION OF AMEltlCA. 

America was first discovered by the Norwegians in the year 
^82, when these adventurers visited Greenland, which, it is 
now universally admitted, forms a part of this grand division 
of the eai-th. This was followed, in the year 1003, by the dis- 
covery of Vinland, which seems to liave been a part of Labra- 
dor, or Newfoundland, The colony of Mnland was soon 
destroyed by intestine divisions ; but that in Greenland conti- 
nued to floui'ish till maritime intercourse was impeded by the 
encroaching shoals of arctic ice. Though the first European 
colonies in America were thus lost, the Danes asserted their 
right by settlements on the western coast, called New Green- 
land, to distinguish it from the original colony on the eastern 
shores, or what is called Old Greenland. 

After this there seems a long pause, for no further discovery 
in Amei'ica has hitherto been traced, by the utmost exertion of 
learned research, till the time of Colon. But the Portuguese 
discoveries in the fifteenth century had gradually enlarged 
knowledge and encouraged enterprise. The Canary islands 
appear to have been faintly known to the Spaniards about the 
middle of the fourteenth century : and the Normans of France, 
in the usual enterprising spirit of their progenitors, had made 
piratical excursions as far as these isles. Their discovery, so 
far to the west, proved an important motive to the further re- 
searches of Colon ; who was also instigated by the numerous 
Portuguese discoveries in Africa, where the cape of Good 
Hope had been seen by Diaz in 1486. 

Colon, or, as he is usually called, Columbus, sailed from 
Spain in quest of the New, World on Friday the 3d day of 
August, 1492. On the 1st of October he was, by his reckon- 
ing, 770 leagues west of the Canaries, His men began to mu- 
tiny, and he was forced to promise to return in three days, if 
land did not apiicar. Fortunate presages soon arose, as land 
birds, a cane newly cut, a carved piece of wood, and the branch 
of a tree with fresh red berries. These and other symptoms 
2 D 



26 GENERAL VIEW 

induced Colon to order the ships to He to in the eveningof the 
11th of October, in the certainty of seeing land on the approach 
of daylight. The night was passed in gazing expectation ; and, 
a light having been observed in motion, the cry of land ! land i 
resounded from the headmost ship. With the dawn of Friday, 
October 12th, a beautiful isle appeared, two leagues to the 
north. Te Deum was sung with shouts of exultation, and 
every mark of gratitude and veneration to the admiral. Colon 
was the first who landed, to the great astonishment of the na- 
tives, who regarded their visitors as children of the sun, the 
astonishment on both sides being; indescribable. The first dis- 
covery was one of the group called the Bahama isles, being the 
Cat island of our mariners. 

In his second voyage he discovered several of the Caribbee 
islands ; and in his third voyage he fell in with an island which 
he called Trinidad, and viewed the estuary of the Orinoco. 
He then returned to Hispaniola, or St. Domingo ; and in Oc- 
tober, 1500, was sent back to Spain in chains ! 

When Colon arrived at the West Indies, he conceived that 
he was in the neighbourhood of Japan ; and the name of India 
was imposed in a new and improper sense. The discovery of 
Vinland could scarcely have been known to him ; and that of 
Greenland was so remote, that there was no room for a sug- 
gestion that this region formed a part of a prodigious continent. 
As to the Atlantis of Plato, and the ridiculous Welsh tale of 
Madoc, which Sovithey has succeeded in rendering interesting, 
they cannot deprive Colon of one atom of his glory. 

Ojeda, an officer who had accompanied Colon in his second 
voyage, sailed to America Vvith four ships in 1499, but disco- 
vered little ryore than Colon had done. One of the adven- 
turers was Amerigo Vespucci, a Florentine man of science, 
eminently skilled in navigation, who perhaps acted as chief 
pilot, an office on such expeditions of high account, and pro- 
bably only inferior to that of commodore. On his return, 
Amerigo published the first description that had yet appeared 
of any part of the new continent : and the caprice of fame has 
assigned to him an honour above the renown of the greatest 
conquerors; that of indehbly impressing his name upon tliis 



OF AMERICA. ^t 

vast portion of the earth. It is idle to accuse his vanity, which 
never could have established such a claim : it was, on the con- 
trary, the ignorant and thoughtless gratitude of others, which 
alone could have imposed the appellation, from regard to the 
first man of letters who had disclosed this discovery to the ge- 
neral eye, as it seems before to have been concealed by jealousy 
and intrigue ; and the name is, at any rate, better than that of 
New Holland, or New South Wales, assigned in our own more 
enlightened times : nor do we esteem it any want of gratitude 
to Cook that no land has yet received its denomination from 
his name. As the titles of the three other quarters of the 
world spread, by mere accident, from small districts, so vvhen 
the name of America was imposed there was not the most dis- 
tant idea of the prodigious extent of the territory ; and it was 
only understood that this appellation was given to a large 
island. If any continent were adjacent, it was understood to 
be the large land of India. 

Cabral, on his voyage to the East Indies in 1500, accident- 
ally discovered Brazil : and in 1513, Vasco Nugnez de Balboa 
descried, from the mountains of the isthmus, the grand Pacific 
ocean ; and he afterwards waded into the waves, and took pos- 
session of it in the name of the Spanish monarch. This disco- 
very seems to have terminated the vain expectation that America 
formed part of Asia. 

It seems unnecessary to trace with minuteness the other 
epochs of discovery in this quarter. In 1515 the continent 
was explored as far as Rio de Plata ; but even in 1518 little 
was known concerning its western parts ; and twenty-six years 
had elapsed since the first voyage of Colon, before the existence 
was rumoured of the empires, or kingdoms, of Mexico and 
Peru. Hispaniola and Cuba still continued to be the chief 
seats of the Spanish power. In 1519, Cortez, with eleven 
small vessels, containing 61T men, proceeded to the conquest 
of Mexico, which was accomplished in 1521. Magalhaens, at 
the same time, having explored the Pacific ocean, the discovery 
of the western coast of America became a necessary conse- 
quence. After many reports concerning the riches of Peru, 
that country was at, length visited in 15S6 by Pizarro, at the 



28 GENERAL VIEW 

head of 36 cavalry and 144 infantry : and in ten years that 
empire was divided among his followers. In 1543 the first 
Spanish viceroy appeared in Peru. 

lu North AMEPacA the epochs of discovery were more 

slow. 

In 1497, Giovanni Gaboto, a Venetian, called by the Eng- 
lish John Cabot, who had received a commission from Henry 
VII., in the view of tracing a nearer passage to India, 
discovered Newfoundland, so called by his sailors; and in- 
spected the American shore as far as Virginia : but this land 
forming merely an obstacle to his wishes, he returned to 

England. 

In 1500, Corte de Real, a Portuguese captain, in search ot 
a north-west passage, discovered Labrador, which he appears 
to have so called from the seeming industry of the natives. 

Florida was discovered by Ponce, a Spanish captain, in 1513. 

The powerful kingdom' of France had hitherto taken no 
share in these discoveries; but in 1524, Francis I. sent Vere- 
zano, a Florentine, who examined a great part of the coast of 
North America. 

In 1534, Francis I. sending a fleet from St. Maloes, to esta- 
blish a settlement in North America, Cartier the commander, 
on the day of St. Lawrence, discovered the great gulf and river 
to which he gave the name of that saint. In the following 
year he sailed about 300 leagues up this noble stream to a great 
cataract, built a fort, and called the country New France. 

The Spanish captain Soto proceeded in 1539 from Cuba to 
complete the conquest of Florida. He travelled northward to 
about lat. 35 deg., but died in 1542, and was buried on the 
bank of the river Mississippi. 

In 1540, Jean de la Roque, lord of Roberual, a gentleman 
of Picardy, was appointed lieutenant-general of the new lands 
of Canada, Hochelaga, and Saguenay, who soon returned 
without success. Roberual again went in 1543. In 1556 the 
French also attempted a settlement in Brazil. The industrious 
and venerable Hakluyt has published the accounts of these 
French voyages; and though merely a private clei-gyman, 
perhaps did n'lore than any potentate to promote a similar spi- 



OF AMERICA. 29 

lit in England. The other French voyages during this cen- 
tury were of little moment. 

It will now be proper to consider the progress of the chief 
settlements. 

In 1576, Frobisher, in search of a north-west passage, dis- 
covered the straits which retain his name. 

In 1578, Sir Humphrey Gilbert obtained a patent for set- 
tling lands in America ; and, in 1583, he discoyered and took 
possession of the harbour of St. John and the country to the 
south, but was lost on his return. The voyage of Drake round 
the world served to kindle the enthusiasm of the English ; and 
Raleigh obtained a patent similar to that of Gilbert. 

Two small vessels dispatched by Raleigh in 1584 unfortu- 
nately bent their course to that country now called North Ca- 
rolina, instead of reaching the noble bays of Chesapeake or 
Delawar. They touched at an island, probably Ocakoki, si- 
tuated on the inlet into Pamlico sound ; and afterwards at 
Roanoke, near the mouth of Albemarle sound. These vessels 
returned to England, with two of the natives ; and Elizabeth 
assigned to this region the name of Virginia, an appellation 
which became laxly applied to the British settlements in North 
America, till it was confined to a different country from the 
original Virginia. 

In 1585, Raleigh sent a small colony, under the command 
of Sir Richard Grenville, who settled in the isle of Roanoke, a 
most incommodious and useless station, whence they returned 
in 1586. He made other unsuccessful attempts to colonize 
the country, and afterwards resigned his patent to some mer- 
chants, who were contented with a petty traffic. At the death 
of Elizabeth, 1603, there was not one Englishman settled in 
America ; and the Spaniards and Portuguese alone had formed 
any establishment on that vast continent. 

The venerable Hakluyt, anxious that his countrymen should 
partake of the benefit of colonies, procured an association of 
men of rank and talents for this purpose ; and a patent was 
granted by James I., April the 10th, 1606, that monarch be- 
ing wholly unconscious that he was about to establish an inde- 
pendent and mighty empire. The bay of Chesapeake was 



30 GENERAL VIEW 

• * 

discovered in 1607 ; and the first lasting settlement was found-' 
ed at James Town, in modern Virginia. Captain Smith, who 
afterwards published an account of his voyages, displayed re- 
markable spirit and enterprise : yet the colony was about to 
return to England when lord Delawar arrived in 1610 ; and 
though he remained only a short time, yet his prudent 'conduct 
firmly established the settlement. 

The discovery and progress of the other English settlements 
will be noticed when we come to the description of the different 
American states. Here it may be sufficient briefly to state the 
epochs of a few other remarkable discoveries, rather uncon- 
nected with these settlements. In 1585, John Davis, an ex- 
perienced navigator, visited the western coast of Greenland, 
and explored the narrow sea, absurdly enough called Davis's 
strait, while it is as wide as the Baltic. On another voyage he 
proceeded as far north as the island of Disko, and the opposite 
shores of Greenland, which he named London coast. He also 
discovered Cumberland strait ; and, upon the whole, the three 
voyages of this navigator are of great consequence. His fur- 
thest point of discovery appears to have been Sanderson's 
Hope, lat. 72 deg., whence turning to the west he was impeded 
by fields of ice. 

In 1607, Hudson made his first voyage ; and is said to have 
proceeded along the eastern coast of Greenland as far as lat. 82 
deg. ; but probably not above lat. 80 deg., or the furthest ex- 
tremities of Spitzbergen. On his voyage in 1610, Hudson , 
discovered the straits which bear his name ; and that inland 
sea, approaching the Baltic in size, which has, however, been 
called Hudson's bay. 

In 1616, some public-spirited gentlemen sent captain Bilot 
to attempt a north-west passage. William Baffin sailed with 
him as pilot : and this voyage is one of the most singular in 
the whole circle of geography. He is said to have proceeded 
in an inland narrow sea as far as 78 deg. ; though the accurate 
and learned Pinkerton doubts the fact. Some curious disco- 
veries have, however, been just made in the arctic seas by 
captain Ross, who fell in with a party of Indians that were 
so ignorant of the world, and the existence of other men, 



OF AMERICA. 31 

as to suppose that the Enghsh had descended from the 
moon ! 

Mr. Hearne, under the direction of the Hudson's bay com- 
pany, in an expedition which lasted from the 7th of December, 
1770, to the 30th of June, 1772, proceeded from Prince of 
Wales's fort, on the Churchill river, in lat. 58 deg. 47| min, 
north, and long. 94 deg. 7| min. west of Greenwich, to the 
mouth of the Copper-mine river, which, according to some 
accounts, is in lat. 72 deg. north, and long. 119 deg. west from 
Greenwich ; but is laid down by others in lat. 69 deg. north, 
and long. 112 deg. west from Greenwich. But the Hudson's 
bay company, acting upon a contracted policy, did not render 
all those services to the subject of American geography which 
might have been expected. The enterprising spirit, however, 
of certain Canadian traders, afterwards united under the name 
of the North-west company, amply supplied the deficiency. 
Prior to the year 1789, they had extended their discoveries 
and establishments along the numerous lakes and rivers situ- 
ated north of that high tract of country which divides the 
Mississippi and Missouri waters from those which run towards 
the north and east, to within a short distance of the Rocky 
mountains. 

In the summer of the year 1789, Mr. M'Kenzie made a 
voyage from fort Chepavyan, on the lake of the Hills, in lat. 
58 deg. 40 min. north, and long. 110 deg. 30 min. west from 
Greenwich, by the way of the Hare river. Hare lake, and a 
river by which this lake discharges its waters, since called 
M'Kenzie's river, to the mouth of that river, where it falls 
into the North sea, in lat. 69 deg. 14 min. north, and long. 
135 deg. west from Greenwich. 

Mr. M'Kenzie again, in the year 1793,* penetrated from an 
estabUshment on the Peace river, in lat. 56 deg. 49 min. north, 
and long. 117 deg. 35 min. west from Greenwich, to the Pacific 
ocean, in lat. 52 deg. 24 min. north, and long. 128 deg. 2 min. 
west from Greenwick. 

By the discoveries above alluded to, and those occasionally 
made during the rapid settlement of the country and the pro- 
gress of enterprise, the principal divisions of this northern con- 



SS GENERAL VIEW 

tinent have been explored and become known. The unknown 
and unexplored countries (except so far as the surveys made 
by navigators of the coast of the Pacific ocean, and the imper- 
fect accounts of the travellers who have ascended tlie Missouri, 
have furnished information) comprehend the tract enclosed by 
this line, containing, in breadth, 1000 miles, and in length 
about 1800 miles in a direct line ; and, by the way of the 
Missouri and Columbia rivers, nearly twice that distance. 

In the year 1804, the American government sent out a corps 
of discovery under the command of captains Lewis and Clarke, 
of the army of the United States. They passed from the 
mouth of the Missouri, through the interior paits of North 
America, to the Pacific ocean, and have materially illustrated 
the geography of that river. Major Pike, in 1805, successfully 
explored the course of the Mississippi, and in a second expe- 
dition, penetrated the interior of Louisiana, surveying the 
whole of those majestic waters which rise in the rocky moun- 
tains of that district, and run westward into the Missouri and 
Mississippi. Tiie recent and splendid contributions of M. 
Humboldt to our scientific information respecting the equinoc- 
tial regions can hardly be ranked with the expeditions of diS' 
covery above mentioned ; but we shall not fail to avail ourselves 
of them in the progress of this work. 

Inhabitants. — The next topic which occurs is the ancient 
population ; but our knowledge of the American languages is 
still so imperfect, that the subject is involved in great doubts. 
None of the native nations of America displays the smallest 
trace of the oblique eyes, and other remarkable features, by 
which the inhabitants of eastern Asia are distinguished. Far 
from this, Pallas, Lesseps, Tooke, and other skilful enquirers, 
have pronounced that the Techuks and Koriaks undoubtedly 
proceeded from America, as they have not one Asiatic li- 
neament. 

It is to be regretted that, neither in North nor South Ame- 
rica, have the languages been compared, analysed, and classed, 
as has b'een done with regard to the numerous tribes subject 
to Russia and China. Hence, instead of solid knowledge, we 
are overwhelmed with petty distinctions, and names without i 



OF AMERICA. 53 

ideas. Upon one point only do investigators seem to be agreed, 
that the friendly and helpless people in the furthest north, 
called Esquimaiux, are the same race witii the Samoieds of 
Asia, and Laplanders of Europe. These, with the Peruvians 
and Mexicans, Dr. Forster chuses to consider as strangers uho 
have settled in America. 

'The curious question concerning the population of America,"* 
says Pinkerton, ' can only be duly examined after the various 
dialects have been compared with those of Africa ; iov to those 
of Europe or Asia they certainly bear no resemblance. To 
trace the population from the north of Asia, not to mention 
the positive contradiction of facts, would be an unnecessary 
restriction of the subject, as the progeny of so cold a latitude 
is ever found rare^ feeble, and unenterprising; while if we 
consider the proximity of Africa, and the many copper colour- 
ed nations which are there to be found, there will be little rea- 
son to hesitate concerning the progress of the Africans to 
America, as well as to New Holland. This resource alone 
remains ; for it has already been seen t!iat the language of the 
Malays, who extended themselves so far to the east of Asia, 
has no connexion with that of the Americans Amidst the 
wonderous dreams of antiquaries, it is surprising that none has 
attempted to prove that the Mexicans and Peruvians were de- 
scendants of the Carthagenians, who fled to the Hesperides in 
their abhorrence of the Roman yoke.' 

Dr. Robertson has enumerated several strong reasons which 
render it highly probable that America was not peopled from 
any civilised part of the ancient continent. He supposes that 
the Esquimaux proceeded from the north-west of Europe, and 
the other inhabitants of America from the north-east of Eu- 
rope. This supposition is corroborateil by tiie ingenious cap- 
tain Burney, who considers Beering's strait not as the separation 
of two great continents, but merely as the entrance to a vast 
bay. Mr. Bailey, the astronomer, who, with captain Burney, 
accompanied the celebrated Couk in his voyage of discovery 
northward, also conceives that Beering's straits is an inland 
sea. This opinion of the actual junction of the Old and New 
World simplifies the question of how the latter was peopled ; 

E 



34 GENERAL VIEW, &rc. 

unless it be found, on investigating the American languages, 
that they have, as Mr. Pinkerton conjectures, originated in 
Africa. 

The present population of this immense continent does not 
probably exceed thirty-six millions ; by which calculation 
North America will contain twenty millions, and South Ame- 
rica sixteen milliojis. 

Having exhibited all the great features of American geo- 
graphy, it now remains to turn ovu* attentlor! to that most im- 
portant portion of the North American continent called the 
UN'ION. Observations which cannot with propriety be intror 
duced in a General View, will be inserted when wf come to 
treat of the respective stateg and territories that compose this 
colossal empire. 



A 
DESCRIPTION 

OF THE 

PHYSICAL FEATURES, 

CUM ATE, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS 

OF THE 

UNITED STATES. 



Boundai'ies. TN the treaty of peace, concluded in 1783, the 
limits of the United States are thus defined : — 
' And that all disputes which might arise in future on the sub- 
ject of the,,boundaries of the said United States may be pre- 
vented, it is hereby agreed and declared, that the following are 
und shall be their boundaries, viz. From the north-west angle 
of Nova Scotia, viz. That angle which is formed by a line 
drawn due north from the source of St. Croix river to the 
highlands, along the said highlands, which divide those rivers 
that empty themselves into the river St. Lawrence, from those 
which fall into the Atlantic ocean, to the north-westernmost 
head of Connecticut river ; thence down along the middle of 
that river to the forty-fifth degree of north latitude; from 
thence by a line due west on said latitude, until it strikes the 
river Iroquois or Cataraquy ; thence along the middle of the 
said river into lake Ontario, through the middle of said lake, 
until it strikes the communication by water between that lake 
and lake Erie ; thence along the middle of said communication 
into lake Erie, through the middle of said lake, until it ar- 
rives at the water communication between that lake and lake 
Huron ; thence through the middle of said lake to the water 



36 VIEW OF THE 

communication between thiit lake and lake Superior ; thence 
through lake Superior northward of the isles Royal and Phil- 
lipeaux to the Long lake ; thence through the middle of said 
Long lake, and the water communication between it and the 
lake of the AVoods to the said lake of the Woods; thence 
through the said lake to the most north-western point thereof, 
and from thence, on a due west course, to the river Mississippi ; 
thence by a line to be drawn along the middle of said river 
Mississippi, until it shall intersect the northernmost part of the 
thirty-first degree of north latitude. South, by a line to be 
drawn due east from the determination of the line last men- 
tioned, in the latitude of thirty-one degrees north of the equa- 
tor, to the middle of the river Apalachicola, or Catahouche ; 
thence along the middle thereof to its junction with the Fhnt 
river ; thence straight to the head of St. Mary's river ; and 
thence down along the middle of St. Mary's river to the At- 
lantic ocean. East, by a line to be drawn along the middle of 
the river St. Croix, from its mouth in the bay of Fundy to its 
source ; and from its source directly north, to the aforesaid 
highlands, which divide the rivers that fall into the Atlantic 
ocean from those ^hich fall into the river St. Lawrence, com- 
prehending all islands within twenty leagues of any part of 
the shores of the United States, and lying between lines to be 
drawn due east from the points where the aforesaid boundaries 
between Nova Scotia on the one part, and East Florida on the 
other, shall respectively touch the bay of Fundy and the At- 
lantic ocean, excepting such isles as now are, or heretofore 
have been, within the limits of the said province of Nova Scotia.' 
Extent. — The United States are situated between 25 deg. 
50 min. and 49 deg. 37 min. north lat., and between 10 deg. 
east and 48 deg. 20 min. west long, from Washington. The 
most nortliern part is bounded by a line running due west from 
the north-west corner of the lake of the Woods, and the south- 
ern extremity is the outlet of the Rio del Norte. The eastern 
extremity is the Great Menan island, on the coast of Maine ; 
and the western extremity is cape Flattery, north of Colum- 
bia river, on the Pacific ocean. Their greatest extent, from 
north to south, is 1700 miles, and from east to west, 2700. 



UNITED STATES. 87 

Their surface covers more than 2,500,000 square miles, or 
1,600,000,000 acres 

In 1788, the number of square acres in the United States 
amounted to 283,800,000, of which only about 1,250,000 
were cultivated ; and in 1808 to 600,000,000, of which about 
2,500,000 were in a high state of cultivation. At the present 
time, the American Avriters estimate them at the enormous in- 
crease of 1,600,000,000 acres. Of this it can only be remark- 
ed, that the accession of Louisiana and the lands cleared 
westward hardly account for so vast an addition of territory. 

Divisions. — Thci'e appear to be now nineteen United States 
of North America, including Indiana, and six Territorial Go- 
vernments, so called, as not being yet regularly organized into 
states, but under the general government of the Union; dis- 
tributed into the following four grand divisions ; 



I. The Northern, New England^ or Eastern States. 

Vermont, | the District of Maine ; 

New Hampshire, j Rhode Island, 

Massachusetts, including Connecticut. 



II. The .Middle States. 

New York, | Delaware, . 

New Jersey, j Ohio, 

Pennsylvania, j Indiana. 

III. The Southern States. 

Maryland, j South Carolina, 

Virginia, | Georgia, 

Kentucky, | Tennessee, 

North Carolina, j Louisiana. 

IV. Territorial Govermncnts. 

District of Columbia, ( Illinois Territory, 

Mississippi Territory, | Michagan ditto, 

Missouri ditto, North-west ditto. 



38 



VIEW OF THE 



The following table will shew the extent of territory within 
the Union, and the increase of population which has taken 
place during twenty-seven recent years. 



States. 


Square Miles. 


Number of 


Inhabitants. 


17ft(). 


1H17. 


Vermont - 


10,000 


85,539 


296,450 


New Hampshire 


9,800 


141,885 


302,733 


Maine - \ 
Massachusetts J 


31,750 


96,540 


318,647 


8,500 


378,787 


564,392 


Rhode Island 


1,700 


68,825 


98,721 


Connecticut 


4,500 


237,946 


349,568 


New York 


54,000 


340.120 


1,486,739 


New Jersey 


6,500 


184,139 


345.822 


Pennsylvania 


48,700 


434,373 


986,494 


Delaware - 


1,800 


59,094 


108,334 


Maryland - 


14,000 


319,728 


502,710 


Virginia - \ 
Kentucky - J 


75,000 


747,610 


1,347,496 


52,000 


73,677 


683,753 


North Carolina - 


49,000 


393,751 


701,224 


South Carolina - 


32,700 


240,073 


564,785 


Georgia 


64,000 


82,548 


408,567 


Western Territories 


- - 


35,691 


_ _ _ 


Districtof Columbia 


100 


_ . _ 


37,892 


Tennessee - 


63,000 


_ _ _ 


489,624 


Ohio 


45,000 


_ _ _ 


394,752 


Louisiana - 


49,000 


_ _ _ 


108,923 


Indiana 


38,000 


- _ - 


86,734 


Mississippi 


55,000 


_ _ _ 


104,550 


Illinois Territory 


66,000 


_ _ _ 


39,000 


Michagan ditto 


47,500 


_ _ _ 


9,743 


Missouri ditto 


1,987,000 


- - - 


68,794 


Total - 


2,814,550 


8,929,336 


10,405,547 



In estimating the extent of such immense regions, accuracy 
is not attainable ; but perhaps the above calculation may not 
be far from the truth. However, after making every reasona- 
ble deduction, the survey before us offers matter for reflections 



UNITED STATES. 39 

the most consolatory and Impressive. England contains one 
hundred and eighty persons to a square mile ; and when the 
territories at present comprehended in the Union shall become 
equally populous, the population will amount to Jive hundred 
millions! while few writers on Statistics have ventured to esti- 
mate the inhabitants of Europe at more than one hundred and 
seventy millions. This shews the futility of the European 
roi/al associations for the purpose of impeding the march of 
knowledge, and of restoring the age of ignorance and supersti- 
tion. The people of the Western Hemisphere will soon be 
qualified, whatever may happen in the Old World, to support 
and defend the ark of science and liberty. 

Climate. — The climate of the United territories, as already 
mentioned, is chiefly remarkable for sudden transitions from 
heat to cold, and the contrary. The wind from the north-east 
is violently cold, as it passes a wide expanse of the frozen con- 
tinent. In the plains on the east of the Apalachian chain the 
summer heats are immodenite ; and in some places even ice 
will not preserve poultry or fish from putrefaction. Towards 
the mountains the climate is salutary, even in the sout'i5ern 
states, as is evinced by the bloom of tlie damsels in the back 
settlements of Viroinia. In the northern states the winter is 
longer and more severe than in England, Ijut the suunner heat 
more intense. A north-east wind commonly attends rain, 
while on the west side of the A])alachian mountains a south- 
west has that efiect. In Georg-ia the winter is very mild, snow 
being seldom seen, and the east wind is there the warmest. 

This excessive heat of the plains must be regarded as one 
cause of that fatal pestilential malady called the yellow fever, 
which first appeai'ed at Philadelphia in 179-'', and has since too 
frequently repeated its i-avages in various cities of the com- 
monwealth. Several medical men have treated this subject 
with considerable care and ability ^ but do not seem to have 
examined whether any similar disease was before known on 
the continent, and what method of cure was practised. Alzate, 
in his fugitive remarks on the natural history of Mexico, has 
mentioned an epidemical distemper, called in the Mexican lan- 
guage mailazahualt ; but at Vera Cruz, Carthagena. and other 



40 VIEW OF THE 

places, known by the name of the black vomit, which is the 
chief scourge of the kingdom of Mexico. In 1736 and 1737 
it swept away above one-third of the inhabitants of the capital ; 
and in 1761 and 1762 it almost depopulated the kingdom. 
Alzate thinks that this disorder proceeds from the bile mixing 
Avith the blood, the patient often bleeding at the nose and 
mouth ; and a relapse is extremely dangerous. He dissuades 
purgatives and bleeding, as when used for other disorders they 
superinduce the matlazaJiualt, which in Mexico always begun 
among the Indians, and was chiefly confined to them. May 
not this disorder be as much allied with the yellow fever as 
the black and yellow jaundice ? The S})anish physicians might 
at any rate be consulted, as they have long been accustcmied to 
the American maladies ; and it is hoped that this hint may not 
be unsubservient to the interests of humanity. 

Seasons.— The seasons in the United States generally cor- 
respond with those in Europe, but not with the equality to be 
expected on a continent ; as, even during the summer heats, 
single days will occur which require the warmth of a fire. The 
latitude of Labrador corresponds with that of Stockhohn, and 
that of Canada with France ; but what a wide difference in the 
temperatui'e ! Even the estuary of the Delaware is generally 
frozen for six weeks every winter. Nor does the western coast 
of North America seem warmer than the eastern. The nume.- 
rous forests, and wide expanses of fresh water, perhaps contri- 
bute to this comparative coldness of the climate, wiuch may 
gradually yield to the progress of population and industry. In 
fact, a favourable change in the climate is already very per- 
ceptible. In the oldest cultivated parts of the country, the 
cold in winter has sensibly decreased, the snow has diminished, 
and the frosts are neither so severe nor of so long a continuance 
as formerly. 

Face of the Country. — The face of these extensive territories 
is not so minutely diversified as might have been expected, the 
features of nature being here on a larger and more uniform 
scale than in Europe. Nor are there any scenes of classical or 
historical reminiscence, which transport the mind to remote 
centuries, and impart a crowd of relative ideas. The aban- 



UNITED STATES. 41 

dance of timber, and the diversity of the foliage, contribute 
greatly to enrich the landscape ; but it is here reputed a weed, 
and the planter seldom spares trees near his habitation, as the 
roots having no great room to spread or penetrate, they would 
be dangerous durinq; a violent wind. ' What a beautiful 
country, not disgraced by a single tree,' is an idea purely 
American. The landscape is less ennobled by lofty mountains 
than by rivers of great magnitude; and is frequently injured 
by the barren aspect of large fields, which have been exhausted 
by the culture of tobacco, and which scarcely produce a weed 
or a pile of grass. The northern provinces, called New Eng- 
land, are generally hilly, as they approach the skirts of the 
Apalachian chain, which has, by no unfit similitude, been called 
the spine of the United territory. The vales in these northern 
regions are thickly clothed with wood, and. often pervaded by 
considerable rivers ; and many romantic cascades are formed 
by rivulets falling from the rocks, while towards the shore the 
land is level and sandy. In Virginia, a central state, the Blue 
mountains, apd other ridges of the Apalachian, add great 
charms and variety to the prospect, which is further enlivened 
by many beautiful plants and birds, particularly the humming 
bird, sucking the honey of various flowers, and rapidly glanc- 
ing in the sun its indescribable hues of green, purple, and gold. 
Here a plain from 150 to ^00 miles in breadth, reaching from 
the mountains to the sea, is studded with the villas of rich 
proprietors, the ancient hospitable country gentlemen of the 
United States. Similar levels appear in the Carolinas and 
Georgia. Beyond the Apalachian ridges extends another rich' 
plain of amazing size, pervaded by the muddy waves of the 
Mississippi, which does not appear to be table land, but on 
nearly the same level with the eastern plain. In Kentucky 
the surface is agreeably waved with gentle swells, reposing on 
a vast bed of limestone ; and a track of about twenty miles^ 
along the Ohio is broken into small hills and narrow vales. 

Soil — The soil, though of various descriptions, is generally 
fertile, often, on the east of the Blue mountains, a rich brown 
loamy earth, sometimes a yellowish clay, which becomes more 
and more sandy towards the sea. Sometimes there are const. 

F 



42 VIEW OF THE 

derable marslies, and what are called salt meadows, and spots 
called barrens, which, even in the original forests, are found to 
be bare of trees for a considerable space. On the west of the 
Apalachian chain the soil is also generally excellent ; and in 
Kentucky some spots are deemed too rich for wheat, but the 
product may amount to sixty bushels an acre : and about six 
feet below the surface there is commonly a bed of limestone. 
The vales in the northern states are also very productive. 

Agriculture. — In agriculture the Americans are well skilled, 
and are eager to adopt the advantages of English experience. 
It is computed that three-fourths of the inhabitants of the 
United States are employed in agriculture. This free and vi- 
gorous yeomanry may well be regarded as the chief glory of 
any state; and commerce will impart sufficient opulence to 
enable them to promote every possible improvement. In the 
year 1816, the value of agricultural products exported amount- 
ed to the sum oi fifty-three millionn, three hundred and Jifty- 
four thouMmd dollars. But this subject must be reserved 
until we come to treat of the present state and resources of the 
Union, when it will receive an attention commensurate with 
its vast importance. 

Rivers. — The chief rivers in the United States have already 
been described in the brief general view of North America ; 
but a few additional particulars may be here noticed, and an 
account given of those of a more confined course, which parti- 
cularly belong to the United territory. 

The Mississippi generally affords fifteen feet of water, from 
the mouth of the Missouri to that of the Ohio ; but, in time of 
flushes, a first-rate man-of-war may descend with safety. The 
mean velocity of its current may be computed to be four miles 
an hour. Its breadth is various, from one and a half to two 
miles : its mouth is divided into several channels, which continu- 
ally change their direction and depth. The Arkansaw^ which 
runs into this mighty river, has been recently explored by major 
Pike, who computes its course, from its junction with the Mis- 
sissippi, about north lat, 34 deg. 10 min., to the mountains, at 
1981 miles, and thence to its source, 192 additional miles. It 
receives several rivers, navigable for upwards of 100 miles. 



UNITED STATES. 43 

The Missou7-if with its eastern branches, waters five-eighths 
«f the United States. It rises in the Rocky mountains to the 
north-west of Louisiana, in north lat. 45 cleg. 24 min., and 
reckoning from its most extreme branch, the Jefferson, joins 
the Mississippi after a course of above 3000 miles, in west 
long. 90 deg. and north lat. 39 c\eg., when, forming one mighty 
stream, they pursue their way conjointly to the gulf of Mexico. 

The Ohio, less sublime and majestic in its course than those 
already noticed, is also less interru})ted in its navigation. Its 
general breadth is about 600 yards ; but it varies from 300 in 
the narrowest to 1200 in the widest part. The course of the 
Ohio, from fort Pitt to its junction with the Mississippi, fol- 
lowing all its windings, is, by Morse and other Americiin geo- 
graphers, computed at 1188 miles. This river commences at 
the junction of the Alleghany and Monongehala rivers. It 
has been describe<l as, beyond competition, the most beautiful 
river in the world : its meandering course through an immense 
region of forests ; its elegant banks, which afford innumerable 
delightful situations for cities, villages, and improved farms ; 
with its various other advantages, well entitle it to the name 
originally given it by the French of ' La belle Riviere.'' Since 
that period, the Ohio has greatly improved both in beauty and 
utility. The immense forests which once lined its banks have 
gradually receded; cultivation smiles along its borders; nu- 
merous villages and towns decorate its shores ; and it is not 
extravagant to suppose that the time is not far distant when its 
entire margin will form one continued series of villages and 
towns. \'^ast tracts of fine country have communication with 
the Ohio, by means of its tributary navigable waters ; extraor- 
dinary fertility, marks the river bottoms ; and the superior 
excellence of its navigation has made it the channel through 
which the various productions of the most extensive and fertile 
parts of the United States are already sent to market. At its 
conmiencement at Pitts})ort, or Pittsburg, it takes a north-west 
course for about twenty-five miles; then turns gradually to 
west-south-west; and having pursued that course for about 
-500 miles, winds to the south-west for nearly 160 njiles; then 
turns to the west for about 260 miles more ; thence south-west 



44 VIEW OF THE 

for 160, and empties itself into the Mississippi in a south di- 
rection, nearly 1200 miles below Pittsburg. In times of high 
freshes, and during the flow of ice and snow from the Alle- 
ghany and other mountains, vessels of almost any tonnage may 
descend this river : it is never so low but that it may be navi- 
gated by canoes, and other light craft, not drawing more than 
twelve inches water. The highest floods are in spring, when- 
the river rises forty-five feet ; the lowest are in summei", when 
it sinks to twelve inches at the bars, ripples, and shoals, where 
waggons, carts, &c. frequently pass over. 

The lai'gest stream that flows into the Ohio is the Tem^essee 
river, whose remotest sources are in Virginia, north lat. 37 
deg. 10 min. It runs about 1000 English miles south and 
south-south-west, receiving considerable accessions of minor 
waters on each side, and then turning circuitously northward, 
blends itself with tiie Ohio at about 60 miles from the mouth 
of that river. It is navigable for vessels of large bvirden to the 
distance of 250 miles from its junction with the Ohio. 

The Alleghany river rises in Pennsylvania, on the western 
side of the Alleghany mountains^ and after running about 200 
miles in a south-west direction, meets the Monongehala at 
Pittsburg, and the united streams now form the Ohio. In 
ihis course it is increased by many tributary streams. Few 
rivers exceed the Alleghany for clearness of water and rapidity 
of cui'rent. It seldom fails to mark its course across the mouth 
of the Monongehala, in the highest freshes or floods, the water 
of the latter being very muddy, that of the former very clear. 
In high floods, the junction of these rivers presents a pleasing, 
view ; the Monongehala flowing sometimes full of ice, the Al- 
leghany transparent and free. Its banks are delightfully in- 
terspersed with cultivated farms and increasing towns. In a 
course of 80 miles, however, from a place called Envalt's De- 
feat to Freeport, it is full of eddies, rapids, rocks, and other 
dangers, to avoid which requires the utmost attention. In 
some of the ripples the water runs at the rate of ten miles an 
hour ; and a boat will go at the rate of twelve miles, without 
any other assistance than the steering oar. The waters of this 
;-iver are recommended by the medical practitioners of Pitts- 



UNITED STATES. 4o 

l)urg, both for the purposes of bathing and of drinking ; but 
the peculiar medicinal qualities of the Alleghany water are, 
perhaps, more to be attributed to the faith of those who use it, 
than to any inherent character of superior salubrity. 

The Monongehala river rises at the foot of the Laurel 
mountain, in Virginia ; thence, through various meanderings, 
passes into Pennsylvania, receiving in its course the Cheat and 
Yougheogheny rivers, and many smaller streams. It has al- 
ready been stated that this river unites with the Alleghany at 
Pittsburg. Twelve or fifteen miles from its mouth, it is about 
300 yards wide, and i.; navigable for boats and small craft, 
particularly in autumn and spring, when it is generally covered 
Avith what are called trading and family boats ; the former 
loaded with flour, cider, whiskey, apples, and various kinds of 
wrought materials; the latter carrying furniture, domestic 
utensils, and agricultural instruments, destined for Kentucky 
and New Orleans. 

Another principal river of North America, and the most 
considerable one in the eastern states, is the Connecticut. It 
rises in the highlands to the south of New Brunswick, in west 
long. 72 deg. and north lat. 45 deg. 10 min. After a hngeriu" 
course of eight or ten miles, it has four separate falls ; and 
turning west, keeps close under the hills which form the 
northern boundary of the vale through which it runs. The 
Amonoosack and Israel rivers, two principal branches of the 
Connecticut, fall into it from the east, between the latitudes 44 
and 4-5 deg. Between the towns of Walpole on the east, and 
Westminster on the west side of the river, are the Great falls. 
The whole river, compressed between two rocks, scarcely thirty 
feet asunder, shoots with amazing rapidity into a broad basin 
below. Over these falls, a bridge, 160 feet in length, was 
built in 1784, under which the highest floods may pass with- 
out difficulty. This is the first bridge that was erected over 
this noble river. Above Deerfield, in Massachusetts, it i-e- 
ceives Deerfield river from the west, and Miller s river from 
the east ; after which it turns westerly, in a sinuous course, to 
Fighting falls, and a little after tumbles over Deerfield falls, 
which are impassible by boats. At Windsor, in this state, it 



46 VIEW OF THE 

receives Farmington river from the west; and at Hartford 
meets the tide. From Hartford it passes on in a crooked 
course, until it falls into Long island sound, between Saybrook 
and Lyme. The length of this river, in a straight line, is nearly 
300 miles. It is from 80 to 100 rods wide, 130 miles from its 
mouth, where there is a bar of sand, which considerably ob- 
structs its navigation. On this beautiful river, whose banks 
are peopled almost, if not now entirely, to its source, stand 
numerous well-built towns. 

Charles River has its sources, five or six in number, in the 
state of Massachusetts, on the south-east side of Hopkinton 
and Holliston ridge. The main stream runs north-east, then 
north and north-eastwardly, round this ridge, until it mingles 
with Mother-brook. The river thus formed runs westward, 
passing over numerous romantic falls. Bending to the north- 
east and east, through Watertown and Cambridge, and pass- 
ing into Boston harbour, it mingles with the waters of the 
Mystic river at the point of the peninsula of Charlestown. It 
is navigable for boats to Watertown, seven miles. 

Taunton River rises in the Blue mountains, forming the 
principal drain of the country lying east of those mountains. 
Its course is about 50 miles from north-east to south-west; 
and is navigable for vessels to Taunton. It finally empties 
into Narragausct bay, at Tiverton. The rivers Concord, 
Mystic, Medford., Ipswich, and many others, contribute to the 
beauty and commercial interests of Massachusetts. 

To the state of New York belongs the noble stream called 
Hudson River, and frequently North River. It rises in a 
mountainous country, between the lakes Ontario and Cham- 
plain. In its course, south-easterly, it approaches within six 
or eight miles of lake George; then, after a short course east, 
turns southerly, and receives the Sacondago from the south- 
west, within a few miles of the Mohawk river. The course of 
the river thence to New York, where it empties itself into 
York bay, is almost uniformly south. Its whole length is 
about ^^50 miles. 

The banks of Hudson, or North river, especially on the 
western side, as tar as the highlands extend, are chiefly rocky 



UNITED STATES. 47 

cliffs. The passage through the highlands, wliich is sixteen or 
eighteen miles, affords a wild i-omantic scene. In this narrow 
pass, on each side of which the mountains tower to a great 
height, the wind, it" there be any, is collected and compressed, 
and blows continually as through a bellows : vessels, in pass- 
ing through it, are often compelled to lower their sails. The 
bed of this river, which is deep and smooth to an astonishing 
distance, througli a hilly, rocky country, and even through 
ridges of some of the highest mountains of the United States, 
ipust undoubtedly have been produced by some mighty con- 
vulsion of nature. The tide flows a few miles above Albany ; 
to which place it is navigable for slo^jps of eighty tons, and for 
ships to Hudson. About 60 miles above New York the water 
becomes fresh, and is stored with fish of various kinds. The 
advantages which this river affords to the inland trade of the 
state, and those which, by means of the lakes, it renders to the 
trade with Canada, are very great. These have been consi- 
derably enhanced since the invention of steam-boats, of which 
there are several, of amazing size, on this river, on which that 
memorable invention was first successfully tried, in the year 
1807. Some of them, though equal in length to a ship of the 
line, travel through the Narrows, and along the whole course 
of this river from New Yoi'k to Albany, at the rate of seven or 
eight miles an hour, against wind and tide. The distance, it 
is said, has been run down the stream in seventeen hours : for- 
merly an uncertain voyage of three or four days, or even a 
week or two, according to the state of the winds and tides. 
The average time is twenty-four hours. Ferry-boats, propel- 
led by steam, and so constructed that carriages drive in and 
out at pleasure, may be observed at every large town on this 
fine river. These convenient vehicles are likely to supersede 
the use of bridges on navigable waters. They are, in fact, a 
sort of flying-bridge, with this advantage over the numerous 
and costly structures of that kind which now span the broad 
surface of the Susquehannah, in the interior of Pennsylvania 
— they do not require such expensive repairs ; they may be 
secured from the effects of sudden floods ; and, what is of far 
more importance, they present no obstruction to navigation. 



48 VIEW OF THE 

The growing population of the fertile lands upon the northern 
branches of the Hudson must annually increase the amazing 
wealth that is conveyed by its waters to New York, In al- 
most every point of view, this river is one of the greatest utility 
in the United States. 

The Onondago river rises in a lake of the same name, and, 
running westerly, fells into lake Ontario, at Oswego, With 
the exception of a fall, which occasions a portage of twenty 
yards, this river is navigable for boats from its mouth to the 
head of the lake ; thence batteaux go up Wood creek, almost 
to fort Stanwix, whence there is a portage of a mile to Mo- 
hawk river. Towards the head waters of this river salmon 
are caught in great quantities. 

The Mohawk river rises to the northward of fort Stanwix, 
about eight miles from Sable river, a water of lake Ontario, 
and runs southerly 20 miles to the fort; then eastward 110 
miles, and, after receiving many tributary streams, falls into 
North river, by three mouths, opposite to the cities of Lausin- 
burg and Troy, from seven to ten miles north of Albany. 
This is a very fine river, and is navigable for boats nearly the 
whole of its course. Its banks were formerly thickly settled 
with Indians, but now cultivation and civilization have ren- 
dered its course a busy scene of mercantile pursuit and in- 
creasing population. 

The Delaware, the Susquehannah, Tyoga, Seneca, Genesse^ 
and the north-east branch of the Alleghany river, all belong tc 
the state of New York; and such is the intersection of the 
whole state, by the various branches of these and other rivers, 
that there are few places, throughout its whole extent, that are 
more than fifteen or twenty miles from a navigable stream. 

The river Savannah divides the state of Georgia from South 
Carolina, and pursues a course nearly from north-west to 
south-east. The freshes of this river will sometimes rise from 
thirty to forty feet perpendicular above the actual level of the 
stream. 

The New Piscataqua, having four extensive branches, all 
of them navigable for small vessels, furnishes the commence- 
ment of a line, which, drawn from its northern head, until it 



UNITED STATES. 49 

tneets the boundary of the province of Quebec, divides New 
Hampshire from the province of Maine. The Merr'imak^ re- 
markable for two considerable falls, Amaskat'^g antl Pantiicket, 
bears that name from its mouth to the confluence of the Perni- 
gewasset and Winipisikee rivers, which unite in about lat. 43 
deg. 30 min. The first of these rivers forms the only port of 
New Hampshire. Great Bay spreads out from Piscataqua 
river, between Portsmouth and Exeter. 

Columbia River is the principal stream wliich has been ex- 
plored on the north-west coast of America. It is called, by 
the Indians, Tacoutche-Tesse, and is formed by innumerable 
streams from the Rockv mountains, rising between the 43d 
and 53d deg. of north lat. The principal stream has a covu'se 
of TOO British miles to the ocean, which it enters at north lat. 
46 deg. 

Cataracts. — Some of the chief wonders of this western he- 
misphere are found in its cataracts, or falls, Avhich do not con- 
sist of single streams precipitated from hill to vale in picturesque 
beauty, as in the Alps, but of whole rivers tossed from broken 
mountains into inunense basins below. The first in magni- 
tude are 

Tha Cataracts of Niagara., between tlie lakes Erie and On- 
tario, distant about eighteen miles from the town of Niagara, 
and situate upon a river of the same name. These falls may 
be regarded as presenting one of the most interesting of all the 
phenomena in the natural world. ' At Queenston,'' says lieu- 
t(Miant Hail, ' seven miles iVom the falls, their sound, united 
with the rushing of the river, is distinctly heard. At the dis- 
tance of about a mile, a white cloud, hovering over the trees, 
indicates their siftiation: it is not, however, until the road 
emei-ges Irom a close country into the space of open ground 
immediately in their vicinity, that the white volumes of foam 
are seen, as it" boiling up from' a sulphureous gulf Here a 
foot-patli turns from the road towarils a wooded cliff. The 
rapids are beheld on the right, rushing, for the space of a mile, 
like a tempestuous sea. A narrow tract descends about sixty- 
feet down ti)(i cliff, and continues across a plashy meadow, 
'o G 



oO VIEW OF THE 

through a copse, encumbered with masses of limestone ; extri- 
cated from which, I found myself on the Table Rock, at the 
very point where the river precipitates itself into the abyss. 
The rapid motion of the waters, the stunning noise, the moun- 
tain clouds, almost persuade the startled senses that the rock 
itself is tottering, and on the point of rolling down into the 
gulf, which swallows up the mass of descending waters. I 
bent over it, to mark the clouds rolling white beneath me, as 
in an inverted sky, illumined by a most brilliant rainbow, — one 
of those features of softness which Nature delights to pencil 
amid her wildest scenes, tempering her awfulness with beauty, 
and making her very terrors lovely. 

* There is a ladder about half a mile below the Table Rock, 
by which I descended the cliff, to reach the foot of the fall. 
Mr. Weld has detailed the impediments and difficulties of this 
approach, and M. Volney confesses they were such as to o\er- 
come his exertions to surmount them. A few years, however, 
have made a great change ; the present dangers and difficulties 
may be easily enumerated. The first is, the ordinary huzard 
every one runs who goes up or down a ladder ; this is a very 
good one of thirty steps, or about forty feet ; from thence the 
path is a rough one. over the fragments and masses of rock 
which have gradually crumbled, or been forcibly riven from 
the cliff, and which cover a broad declining space, from its base 
to the river brink. The only risk in that part of the pilgrim- 
age, is that of a broken shin fiom a false step. The {)atli 
grows smooth as it advances to tlie fall, so that the undrvidc-d 
attention may be given to tliii* imposing spectacle. I (eir a 
sensation of awe as I drew near it, like that causeti by the tirst 
cannon on the morning of battle. I passed frouj sinishine into 
gloom and terajjest : the spray beat down in a heavy rain ; a 
violent v/md rushed from behind the sheet of water : it was 
difficult to respire, and, for a moment, it seemed temerity to 
encounter the convulsive v. orkings of tlie elements, and intrude 
Hito the dark dsvellings of their power: but the danger is in 
appearance only ; it is possible to penetrate but a few steps 
V'hind the curtain, aud in tliese ftnv there is no hazard; the 



UNITED STATES. 51 

footing is good, and the space sufficiently broatl and free: 
there is not even a necessity for a guide ; two eyes amply suf- 
fice to point out all that is to be seen or avoided.' 

The most stupendous of these cataracts is that on the British, 
or north-western side of the river Niagara, which, trora its re- 
semblance to the shape of a horse-shoe, has received the appel- 
lation of ' the Great, or Horse-shoe fall ;' but this name is no 
longer strictly applicable. It has become an acute angle, and 
the alteration is estimated at about eighteen I'eet in thirty years. 
The height of this fall is 142 feet. Ilut the two others (for 
there are three falls, owing to the circumstance of small inlands 
dividing the river Niagara into three collateral branches) are 
each about 160 feet in height. The largest has been reckoned 
at about 600 yards in circumference. The widtli of the islarid, 
which separates the ' Great falP from the next in magnitude, 
is estimated at about 350 yards. The second fall is said to be 
only five yai'ds wide. The next island may be estimated at 
about thirty yards in size; and the third, comm.only called the 
' Fort Schlofier fall,' is about 350 yards. According to these 
calculations, the islands being included, the entire extent of the 
precipice is 1335 yards in width. It is supposed that the wa- 
ter carried down these falls amounts to iw) less a quantity than 
670,255 tons per minute. A kind of white foam surrounds 
the bottom of ' Fort Schloper fall,' and rises up in volumes 
from the uocks : it does not, however, as at the Horse-shoe fall, 
ascend above in the form of a cloud of smoke and mist, but the 
spray is so abundant that it descends like rain upon the oppo- 
site bank of the river. The whirlpools and eddies immediately 
below are so dangerous as to render the navigation completely 
impracticable for six miles. The river Niagara, above the 
falls, however, is navigable by boats and canoes as far as fort 
Chippaway, which is about three or four English miles from 
them. But, on approaching nearer, the waters are in such a 
state of agitation, as to require the boat or canoe to be kept m 
the middle of the stream, and, without skilful management, 
would inevitably dash it to destruction. The middle of Sep- 
tember is considei'ed as the most pleasant time of the year for 
the examination of these celelirated fajls, the surrounding fo^ 



5£ VIEW OF THE 

rests being richly variegated with the autumnal colouring. At 
this season the traveller is not exposed to the danger of meet- 
ing with noxious re})tile.s and insects of the country, which 
completely disappear in the chilly nights. 

St. Anthonjfs Falls, in the river Mississippi, are situated 
about tea miles from the mouth of the river St. Pierre, which 
joins the Mississippi from the west. These falls were first 
discovered by Louis Hennipin, in the year 1680, and received 
their present name from that traveller, who was the first Eu- 
ropean ever seen by the natives in these parts. The river falk 
perpendicularly above thirty feet, and is about 250 yards in 
width. The rapids, which are below, in the space of about 
300 yards, render the descent apparently greater when it is 
viewed at any considerable distance. These falls are so pecu- 
liai'ly situated as to bo approachable without any obstructiori 
from a hill or precipice ; and the whole surrounding scenery is 
singularly pleasing. 

The Cohcz, or falls of the river Mohawk, between two and 
three miles from its entrance into North river, are a very great 
natural curiosity. The river, above the fjills, is about 300 
yards wide, and approaches them from the north-west in a 
rapid current, between the high banks on each side, and pours 
the whole body of its water over a perpendicular rock of about 
40 feet in height, which extends quite across the river like a 
mill-dam. The banks of the river, immediately below the falls, 
are about 100 feet high. From a noble bridge, erected in 
1794 and 1795, the spectator may have a grand view of the 
Cohez ; but thev have the most romantic and picturesque ap- 
pearance from Lausinburg hill, alx)ut five miles east of them. 
The river, iuunediately below the bridge, divides into three 
branches, which form several large islands. 

Canals. — The rivers and lakes of North America are in 
many places connected together by Canals, which furnish an 
artificial assli^tance to the comnuniication established in other 
instances bv Nature. The principal interior canals, which 
have been already completed in the United States, are, the 
Middlesex canal, uniting the waters of the IMerrimak river 
with the harbour of Boston; and the canal Carmidelet, ex- 



UNITED STATES. 53 

tending from Bayou St. John to th« fortifications or ditch of 
New Orleans, and opening an inland communication with lake 
Pontchartrain. 

On the 17th of April, 1816, and the 15th of April, 1817, 
the state legislature of New York passed acts appropriating 
funds for opening navigable communications between the lakes 
Erie and Champlain and the Atlantic ocean, by means of ca- 
nals connected with the Hudson river. This magnificent un- 
dertaking is already begun, and promises to make effectual 
progress under the auspices of governor CUnton. We have 
before us, at this moment, the official report of the canal com- 
missioners ; but the extent and the capabilities of these work* 
will be noticed at greater length, when we come to speak of the 
physical resources of the United States. 

Forests, — Aboriginal forests are so numerous throughout 
the United territoxy, that none seem to be particularly distin- 
guished. There does not appear to exist, on the whole conti- 
nent of America, any of those sandy deserts which are so 
remarkable in Asia and Africa. There is, on the contrary, an 
exuberance of water even in the most torrid regions; which 
might be added as a proof of the theory that this continent has 
more recently emerged. Even the vo^lcanoes in South America 
often pour down torrents of water and mud, and no where 
occur the sandy ruins of plains, after the fertile soil has been 
totally lost, or the rocky skeletons of ancient mountains. The 
large tract in the eastern part of Virginia and North Carolina, 
called the Dismal swamp, occupies about 150,000 acres; but 
it- is entirely covered with trees, juniper and cypress on the 
more moist parts, and on the drier white and red oaks, and a 
variety of pines. These trees attain a prodigious size; and 
among them there is often very thick brushwood, so as to ren- 
der the swamp impervious, while other forests in North Ame- 
rica are commonly free from underwood. Cane reeds, and tall 
rick grass, soon fatten the cattle of the vicinity, which are 
taught to return to the farms of their own accord. In this 
swampy forest bears, wolves, doer, and other wild animals 
abound ; and stories are told of children having been lost, who 
have been seen, after many years, in a wild state of nature. 



54 VIEW OF THE 

Some parts are so dry as to bear a horse, while some are over- 
flowed, and others so miry that a man would sink up to the 
neck. A canal has been led through it ; ant^ even in the dry 
parts, water of the colour of brandy, as is supposed from the 
roots of the junipers, gushed in at the depth of three feet. In 
the northern part the timber supplies an article of trade, while 
in the southern rice is found to prosper ; and in the neighbour- 
hood none of these diseases are known which haunt other 
marshy situations. 

Szoamps. — Georgia presents a singular marsh, or in the wet 
season a lake, called Ekansanoko, by others Ouaquafenoga, in 
the south-east extremity of the province. This marshy lake is 
about 300 miles in circumference, and contains several large 
and fertile isles, one of which is represented by the Creek In- 
dians as a kind of paradise, inhabited by a peculiar race, whose 
women are incomparably beautiful, and are called by them 
daughters of the sun. These islanders are said to be a remnant 
of an ancient tribe, nearly exterminated by the Creeks. Such 
events may not have been uncommon among savage tribes ; 
and the more industrious people who erected the noted forts 
may have been passing, like the Mexicans, to a comparative 
state of civilization, when an unhappy defeat, by more savage 
tribes, extinguished their name and power. That the natives 
have no memory of such transactions is not matter of wonder, 
for their traditions can scarcely exceed a century or two at the 
utmost. 

Mineralogy. — This most important subject has not yet been 
illustrated in the manner it deserves. Every substance pre- 
cious to industry has been found in abundance ; and there is 
no doubt but that further researches will discover the more 
rare antl beautiful productions of nature. 

Volney, who wrote on the cUmate and soil of America, makes 
a suppositious division of the United States into five distinct 
regions, — the granitic, the sandstone, the calcareous, the sea- 
sand, and ri\ er alluvions. 

The granitic commences at the mouth of the river St. Law- 
rence and ends at Long island. It is mixed with sandstone 
and limestone, in New Hampshire and Maine, except the White 



UNITED STATES. 55 

niountains in New Hampshire, which are trranite. The river 
Mohawk appears to be the dividing Une of the granite and the 
sandstone ; but in the river Susquehannah some granite is 
found ; and at the base of the south-west chain of the White 
mountains in Virginia. 

The whole of the Apalachian mountains are sandstone ac- 
coi'ding to this arrangement ; and, towards the north-west, th« 
sandstone ends in slate and marl. The Katskill mountains are 
of tile same sandstone as the Blue ridge. 

The calcareous region commences at the west of the Apala- 
chian mountains, and runs to the Mississippi, and, as some 
have supposed, to the Rocky mountains. This stratum lies 
horizontally, at depths proportioned to the depositions of soil. 

The region of sea-sand runs along all the shore from Long 
island to Florida. It is bounded towards the land side by a 
seam of granite, full of large mica, or rather talc ; and this 
boundary runs uninterruptedly along the coast from the west 
bank of the river Hudson to the river lioanoke in North Ca- 
rolina; its breadth is from two to six miles, its extent 500. 
This bovuidary generally marks the limits of the tide, and fre- 
quently occasions fails in the rivers. Tlie land between the 
granite ridge and the sea varies in breadth from 30 to 100 
miles, and is evidently sand recently brought by the ocean, 
whose limits were originally determined by this hill of granite. 
The bare rocks projecting into the sea are granite, which seems 
to indicate that the sand brought in by the sea merely covers 
rocks of this description. 

The region of the river alluvions extends from the irranitic 
ridge to the base of the sandstone mountains ; hence it appears 
that the ridge of granite in the Apalachian chain is narrow and 
lower than in the sandstone. 

Mr. Maclure has recently published much highly intei'estinf^ 
information on this important department of science, arid seems 
to have studied the geology of the United States with great 
success. According to this writer, througliout the greatest 
part of the northern and north-eastern states, the .sea washe> 
tiio primary rocks ; but at Long island there commences an 
alluvial formation, which, increasing in breadth as it stretches 



56 VIEW OF THE 

southward, covers a great part of both the Carohnas and Geor- 
gia, and almost the whole of the two Floridas and Lower 
Louisiana. This vast alluvial formation is bounded on the 
cast by the ocean, and by a line connnencing at the eastan end 
of Long island and passing through Philadelphia, Washington, 
Richmond in Virginia, Halifax in North Carolina, Columbia in 
South Carolina, Augusta on the Savannah, and thence to Nat- 
chez on the Mississippi. The tide water ends in all the rivers 
from the Mississippi to the Roanoke at the distance of from 30 
to 120 miles from the western limits of the alluvial formation ; 
from the Roanoke to the Delaware, the tide penetrates through 
the alluvial, and is stopped by the primitive rocks. In all the 
northern and eastern rivers, the tide runs a small distance into 
the primitive formations. In the southern states the alluvial 
formation is elevated considerably above the level of the sea ; 
but as it approaches the north, it rises very little above it. 

On the western side of the great range of mountains, there 
is a long narrow zone of transition rocks, beginning on the 
eastern side of lake Charaplain, and extending in an undulating 
line in a south-westerly direction, to a point between the Ala- 
bama and Tombigbee rivers, in about 34 dog. north lat. and 
about 85 dcg. west long. It is generally broadest where the 
primitive formation is nan'owest, and vice versa; and runs 
from 20 to lOO miles in breadth. 

On the north-west of those transition rocks commences an 
immense region of secondary rocks, extending beyond lake 
Superior to the north, and some hundred miles beyond the 
Mississippi to the west, not far distant from the foot of the 
Stoney mountains, forming an area of- about 1500 miles from 
east to west, and about 15200 miles from north to south. 

The volcanic fires which constitute so grand a feature in the 
geological history of South America, have not extended their 
dominion to the northern continent, nor have any productions 
been discovered w liich indicate that volcanoes have at any time 
existed there. 

Of the primitive rocks granite forms but a small part; but 
it is found both on the tops of the mountains and in the plains. 
There are manv varieties of il, in regard to the size of its con- 



UNITED STATES. 51 

Stituent parts ; and it is occasionally mixed with hornblende. 
The granite generally divides into rhomboidal masses, and) 
except in some very small-grained varieties, there is no appear* 
ance of stratification. It is frequently so far decomposed as to 
have lost the adhesion of its particles, to the depth of 30 or 40 
feet below the surface ; each crystal is in its place, and looks 
as if it were solid ; but when you take it up, it falls into sand. 
Gneiss extends over a half of the primitive formation. It in- 
cludes in a great many places beds from three to three hundred 
feet thick, of a very large-grained granite, which run in the 
same direction, and dip as the gneiss does. 

Within the limits of what may be termed the primitive 
country, there are found several partial and detached formations 
of the transition and secondary rocks. A transition formation 
occupies nearly the whole of Rhode island, and runs from , 
Rhode island to Boston, fifteen miles broad. There is a range 
of secondary rocks, extending, with some intervals, from the 
Connecticut to the Rappahannock rivers, a distance of nearly 
400 miles ; and in width, generally from fifteen to twenty-five 
miles. It appears to belong to the old red sandstone formation 
of Werner. A formation of transition rocks runs nearly south- 
west from the Delaware to the Yadkin rivei", from two to fifteen 
miles broad, consisting of beds of blue, grey, red, and white 
small-grained limestone, alternating with beds of greywacke 
and greywacke slate, quartzose granular rocks, and a great va- 
riety of the transition class. Much of this limestone contains 
so much small-grained sand, as to resemble a dolomite ; and, 
in many places, considerable beds of fine-grained white marble, 
fit for the statuary, occur. About ten or twelve miles west of 
Richmond in Virginia, there is a coal formation, lying upon, 
and surrounded by primitive rocks. It is situated in an ob- 
long basin, from twenty to twenty-five miles long, and about 
ten miles wide, having the whitish freestone, slaty clay, &c. 
with veget.able impressions, as well as most of the other at- 
tendants of that formation. 

Great varieties of inineral substances are found in the primi- 
tive formation ; and, from the number already found, in pro- 
portion to the limited researches that have been made, it is 

H 



5» VIEW OF THE 

probable that, in so great an extent of rocks of a crystalline 
structure, almost every mineral substance discovered in similar 
situations elsewhere will be found in this country. Metallic 
substances are found in considerable abundance in the primi- 
tive rocks — iron, copper, manganese, and cobalt. The general 
nature of metallic repositories in this formation appears to be 
in beds, disseminated through the rock, or in lying masses. 
Veins to any great extent have not been discovered in any part 
of this formation. 

The immense basin to the west of the Alleghany iiiountains, 
through which so many mighty rivers flow, is wholly composed 
of secondary rocks, Avithout having their continuity interrupted 
by any other formation, except the alluvial deposites on the 
banks of the large rivers. The stratification is almost perfectly 
horizontal. 

The alluvial country, eastward ot' the Alleghany mountains, 
is composed of beds of sand, gravel, and clay, differing in their 
nature, according to that of the adjoining rocks, from the dis- ( 
integration of wTiich thev have been produced. They contain 
both animal and vegetable remains, which are found to the 
depth of nearly a hundred feet below the surface. Considera- 
ble banks of shells, mostly bivalves, run parallel to the coast». 
imbedded frequently in a soft clay or mud, resembling that in 
which the living animal is now found on the sea shore, and 
which makes the supposition jii-obable that they are of the 
same species. 

Coal exists in several parts of the United States in great 
abundance. We have already sj^oken of the vast series of coal 
strata westward of the Alleghany range, and of an extensive 
coal formation near Richmond in Virginia. In Pennsylvania, 
it is foimd near the w-est branch of the Suscjuehanuah ; in va- 
rious places west of that branch ; also on the Juniata, and oii 
the waters of the Alleghany and Monongehala. In Connecti- 
cut, a coal formation, commencing at Newhaven, crosses Con- 
necticut river at Middletown, and, embracing a width of 
several miles on each side of the river, extends to some distance 
above Northampton, in Massachusetts. There are also indi- 
catioiis of coal in the states of New York and New Jersey. Jn 



UNITED STATES. 59 

Rhode island anthracite is found, accompanied by argillaceous 
sandstone, shale with vegetable impressions, &c. similar to the 
usual series of coal strata. The coal at Middletown, in Con- 
necticut, is accompanied by a slialt- \vhic!i is ]iii>hly bituminous, 
and burns with a bright flame. 

It abounds with very distinct and perfect impressions, of 
fish, sometimes a foot or two in length ; the head, fins, and 
scales, being perfectly distinguishabJe. A single specimen 
sometimes presents parts of three or four fish, lying in different 
directions, and between diffei-ent layers. The fish are some- 
times contorted, and almost doid)lcd. Their colour, sometimes 
grey, is usually black ; and the fins and scales appear to be 
converted into coal. The same shale contains impres-sions of 
vegetables, sometimes converted into pyrites. 

Neither Mr. Cleaveland nor Mr. Maclure"give us any in- 
formation respecting the extent to which the coal has l)een 
wrought in any of the numerous places where it has been 
found, or the thickness of the seams. A scarcity of Avood for 
fuel must be felt before coal will be sought after with much 
spirit ; and there is probably still wanting in the United States 
that profusion of capital which can be risked in the uncertain 
ajierations of inining. 

Iron is found in the United States in a great variety of 
forms, and is worked to a considerable extent. In the year 
1810, there were 530 furnaces, forges, and bloomeries, in the 
United States, 69 of which were in the Slate of New York ; 
and the iron manufactured at Ancram, New York, i^said to 
be superior, for many purposes, to the Russian and Swedish 
iron. It is made from a hematitic brown oxide. Mr. Maclure 
mforms us, that there is a bed of magnetic iron ore, from eight 
to twelve feet thick, wrought in Franconia, near the White 
hills, New Hampshire ; that there is a similar bed in the di- 
rection of the stratification, six miles north-east of I'hilipstown, 
)n the Hudson river ; and, still following the direction of the 
stratification, tliat the same ore occupies a bed nearly of the 
-ame thickness at Ringwocnl, Mount Pleasant, and Suckusannv, 
n New Jersey ; losing itself, as it approaches the end of the 
pri)nitive ridge, near Black water — a range of nearly 300 miles. 



60 VIEW OF THE 

This immense deposite of iron ore is contained in gneiss, and 
is accompanied by gai-net, epidote, and hornblende. In the 
state of New York, raiignetic iron ore is found in immense 
quantities on the west side of lake Champlain, in granitic 
mountains. The ore is in beds, from one to twenty feet in 
thickness, and generally unmixed with foreign substances: 
large beds of this ore extend, with little interruption, from 
Canada to the neighbourhood of New York. Clay ironstone 
is met with in considerable quantities. In Maryland, there are 
extensive beds of it three miles south-west of Baltimore, com- 
posed of nodules formed by concentric layers. Bog iron ore 
ocours in such abundance in many places, as to be smelted to 
a great extent. 

Copper in the native state, and most of its ores, have been 
found in different parts of the United States ; but there are no 
mines of this metal except in New Jersey, and these do not 
appear to be worked with much success. 

Lead has been discovered in a great variety of forms ; and 
there are several extensive mines of it. In Upper Louisiana, 
at St. GenevievCj, on the western bank of the Mississippi, there 
are about ten mines. The ore, which is a sulphuret, is found 
in detached masses of from one to five hundred pounds, in al- 
luvial deposites of gravel and clay, immediately under the soil ; 
and sometimes in veins or beds, in limeistone. One of the mines 
produces annually about 245 tons of ore, yielding 6(ij per cent. 
Tliere are mines also at Perkiomen, in Pennsylvania, 24 miles 
from Philadelphia, The ore is chiefly a sulphuret; but it is 
accompanied by the carbonate, phosphate, and molybdate. In 
Massachusetts, there is a vei)i of galena, traversing primitive 
rocks, six or eight feet wide, and extending twenty miles from 
Montgomery to Hatfield. The ore affords from 50 to 60 per 
cent, of lead. 

Gold has only been found in North Carolina. It occurs in 
grains or small masses, in alluvial earths, and chiefly in the 
gravelly beds of brooks, in the dry season ; and one mass was 
found weighing 28 lb. In 1810^ upwards of 1340 ounces of 
this gold, equal in value to 24,689 dollars, had been received 
:it the mint of the United States. 



UNITED STATES. 61 

Native silver, in small (|uaii titles, is met with at different 
places, but in no other form. Mercury and tin have not been 
found. Cobalt occurs nea? Middletown in Connecticut ; and 
a mine of it was at one tivne worked. Manganese and anti- 
mony are found in several situations. Sulphuret of zinc is 
found in considerable quantity in Maryland, Pennsylvania, 
New Jersey, and ]\Iassacliusetts. In New Jersey, a new va- 
riety of this metal has been discovered, in such abundance, 
that it promises to be a very valuable acquisition to the United 
States. It is a red oxide, composed, of oxide 76, oxigen 16, 
oxides of manganese and iron 8. It is reduced without diffi- 
culty to the metallic state. 

The chromate of iron, both crystallized and araorpheus, oc- 
curs in different situations; particularly near Baltin)ore, and 
at Hoboken, in New Jersey. This mineral is employed to 
furnish the chromic acid, which, when united with the oxide 
of lead, forms chromate of lead — a very beautiful yellow {)ig- 
raent, of which there is a manufactory at Philadelphia. It is 
sold under the name of chromic yellow, and is eniployed for 
painting furniture, carriages, &c. 

We have before noticed the vast extent of limestone of dif- 
ferent species that is spread over the United States ; and profes- 
sor Cleaveland of Bawdain College, in an Elementary Treatise 
on Mineralogy and Geology, enumerates several varieties of 
the primitive limestones in the eastern states, which are used 
as marble in ornamental architecture and in sculpture ; but he 
remarks that tlie state of the arts has not yet caused them to 
be extensively quarried, or even sufficiently expk)red. Some 
of tlie ^'ermont marbles are as white as the Carrara, with a 
grain intermediate between that of the Carrara and Parian 
marbles. At Middlebury, in Vermont, during the years 1809 
and 1810, 20,000 feet of slabs were cut by one mill, containing 
65 saws; and the sales of marble, during the same period, 
amounted to about 11,000 dollars. In Rhode island it is 
found snow white, of a ffne grain, translucid, and perfectly re- 
sembles the Carrara marble. 

Gypsum, or plaster stone, is found in Virginia, IVIaryland, 
and Connecticut. It is very abundant in several parts of the 



m VIEW OF THE 

state, of New York, particularly in Onoudago and Madison 
counties ; also in the vicinity of Cayuga lake, whence, in 1812, 
6000 tons of it were exported to Pennsylvania. In many parts 
of the United States, it has been found an important article of 
manure, in the cultivation of grasses, roots, and grain. 

Rock salt has not hitherto been discovered ; but there are 
numerous salt springs. These sometimes flow naturally ; but 
are more frequently formed by sinking wells in those places 
where the salt is known to exist, as in certain marshes and in 
salt Ikks, so called from having been formerly the resort of 
wild animals to lick the clay im])regnated with the salt. These 
springs are chiefly found in the country westward of the Al 
leghany mountains, near the rivers which flow into the Ohio. 
They occur also in the state of New York, near the Onondago 
and Cayuga lakesj associated with the great gypsum forma- 
tion already noticed. This brine is strong, and yields about 
300,000 bushels of salt annually. The whole quantity of salt 
annually obtained from saline springs in the United States, ex- 
ceeds 600,000 bushels. 

Nitre of potash, or saltpetre, is met with in considerable 
abundance. Mr. Cleaveland gives the following description of 
the places where it is principally obtained. 

' The calcareous caverns which abound in the state of Ken- 
tucky furnish large quantities of nitre. The earths which exist 
in these caverns, and which contain both the nitrate of potash 
and the nitrate of lime, are hxiviated ; and the lixivium is then 
made to pass through wood ashes, hy the alkali of which the 
nitrate of lime is decomposed. After due evaporation, the 
nitre is permitted to crystallize. One of the most remarkable 
of these caverns is in Madison county, on Crooked creek, about 
60 miles south-east from Lexington. This cavern extends 
entirely through a hill, and affords a convenient passage for 
horses and waggons. Its length is 646 yards, its breadth is 
generally about -iO feet, and its average height about 10 feet. 
One bushel of the earth in this cavern connnonly yields from 
one to two pounds of nitre ; and the same salt has been found 
to exist at the depth of 15 feet: even the clay is impregnates^ 
with nitrate of lime. 



UNITED STATES. 6S 

• Kentucky also furnishes nitre under a very different form, 
and constituting what is there called the rock ore, which is in 
fact a sandstone richly impregnated with nitrate of potash. 
These sandstones are generally situated at the head of narrow 
valleys which traverse the sides of steep hills. They rest on 
calcareous strata, and sometimes present a front from 60 to 
100 feet high. When broken into small fragments, and thrown 
into boiling water, the stone soon falls into sand, one bushel of 
which, by hxiviation and crystallization, frequently yields 10 
lb. and sometimes more than 20 lb. of nitrate of potash. The 
nitre obtained from these rocks contains little or no nitrate of 
lime, and is said to be superior for the manufacture of gun- 
powder to that extracted from the afore-mentioned earths. 

' Masses of native nitre, nearly pure, and weighing several 
pounds, are sometimes found in the fissures of these sandstones, 
or among detached fragments. Indeed, it is said that these 
masses of native nitre sometimes weigh several hundred povmds. 
Similar caverns occur in Tennessee, and in some parts of Vir- 
ginia and Maryland.' 

With the exception of the red oxide of zinc, and the native 
magnesia, discovered by Dr. Bruce, no simple minerals have 
hitherto been discovered in the United States that were not 
already known to exist in other parts of the world. There are 
some of the simple minerals, however, which are found in a 
state of great perfection, such as the cyanite, green tourmaline 
and rubellite, mclanite, precious serpentine, garnet, and beryl. 
A mass of native iron has recently been found near Red river 
in Louisiana. The form is irregular ; its length being three 
feet four inches, and its greatest breadth two feet four inches — 
its weight exceeds 3000 lb. Its surface is covered with a 
blackish crust, and is deeply indentetl. It is very malleable 
and compact ; but is unequally hard, some parts being easily 
cut by a chisel, while others have nearly the hardness of steel. 
Its specific gravity is 7"40. It contains nickel, and is less 
easily oxidated than purified iron. This is rendered particu- 
larly interesting, by its containing in its interior octahedral 
crystals, which may be easily cut by a knife, and are striated 



64 VIEW OF THE 

like magnetic iron. The largest crystal is more than half an 
inch in length. 

Amethysts are found in Virginia ; but it is probable that the 
emerald mentioned by Mr. Jefferson is only a green crystal. 
No mineralogic discovery has been made in Georgia, besides a 
bank of oyster shells, 90 miles from the sea. 

Mineral Waters. — There are several mineral waters, of va- 
rious virtues, in dilfei'ent provinces of the United States, but 
none of distinguished eminence like Bath, or Aix-la-Chapelle. 
In the province of Vermont, or the Green mountain, there is 
a remarkable sulphureous spring, which dries up in two or 
three years, and bursts out in another place. There are seve- 
ral mineral springs in Massachu.setts, but little frequented, and 
there is another at Stafford in Connecticut, Those of Sarato- 
ga, in the province of New York, are remarkably copious, and 
surrounded with singular petrifactions. They are considerably 
frequented, as well as those of New Lebanon in the same 
country. New Jersey boasts of some chalybeate waters ; and 
near Isle creek in Pennsylvania on the river Alleghany, or 
Ohio, there is a spring which yields petroleum, said to be use- 
ful in rheumatic complaints. Two warm springs occur in Vir- 
ginia, one of them 112 deg. These are called the springs of 
Augusta ; but others more frequented are near the river Poto- 
mak. A bituminous spring was discovered on the estate of 
general Washington, which easily takes fire, and continues 
burning for some time. The salt springs in Kentucky also 
deserve mention ; and there are others in the province of Ten- 
nessee. In Georgia, near the town of Washington, there is a 
remarkable spring rising from a hollow tree, which is encrusted 
with matter probably calcareous. 

Botany. — A country tliat experiences on the one frontier the 
severity of the Canadian winters, and on the other basks in the 
full radiance of the West Indian summers, may naturally be 
expected to contain no small variety of native plants. So nu- 
merous and important indeed are they, as to render it impos- 
sible, in a work not devoted particularly to the subject, to 
notice them as they deserve ; we must therefore be contented 



UNITED STATES. 6^ 

vith the selection of such alone as, from their utility and 
Deauty, have the strongest claim to our attention. 

The botany of these states, including the Floridas, or, in 
)ther words, of the whole region extending eastward from the 
Vlississippi to the ocean, and southward from the river St. 
Lawrence with its lakes to the gulf of Mexico, may be divided 
nto those vegetables which are common to the whole country, 
md those that occupy only particular parts. 

The most generally diffused species among the timber trees 
ire the willow-leaved oak growing in the swariips ; the chesnut 
)ak, which in the southern states attains an enormous size, and 
s almost as valuable for its sweet farinaceous acorns as for its 
vood ; the white oak ; the red and the black. Next to these 
n rank are two kinds of walnut, the black, and the white or 
liccory, esteemed for its oily nuts. The chesnut and beech of 
Europe are also found abundantly in the American forests, 
rhe tulip tree and sassafras laurel, more impatient of cold than 
;he preceding, appear as shrubs on the Canadian borders, rise 
nto trees in the midland states, and on the warm banks of the 
A.ltahama attain the full perfection of stateliness and beauty. 
rhe sugar maple, on the contrary, is seen only on the northern 
sides of the hills in the southern states, and increases both in 
iize and frequency in the more bracing climate of the New 
England provinces. The sweet gum tree, the iron Avood, the 
lettle tree, the American elm, the black poplar, and the tacca- 
nahacca, appear in every state of the Union wherever the soil 
s suitable, without being much affected by variety of climate, 
rhe light sandy tracts, both wet and dry, are principally inlia- 
jited by the important and useful family of pines : of these the 
:hief species are the Pennsylvanian fir, the common and the 
tiemlock spruce fir ; the black, the white, and the Weymouth 
pine ; and the larch : nearly allied to which are the arbor vitae, 
ind the juniperus virginiana, the red cedar of America. The 
smaller trees and shrubs that are dispersed in all parts of the 
United States, among a multitude of others, consist of the fol- 
lowing; the fringe tree, the red maple, the sumach and poison 
)ak, the red mulberry, the pei'simmon plum, and robinia pseu- 
lacacia, and the triple-thorned acacia. 

I 



66 \-IF:w of the 

Such of the common herbaceous plants and low shrubs as are 
best known to tlie generality of readers, from their introduction 
into the gardens of Great Britain, are the collinsonia, used by 
the Indians against the bite of the rattlesnake, several gay spe- 
cies of phlox, the thorn-apple, the Pennsylvanian lily and 
martagon, the biennial Oenothera, with many species of aster, 
monarda, and rudbeckia. 

The mountainous ridges are not sufficiently high to be rich 
in alpine plants ; their climate, however, is sensibly cooler than 
that of the plains, on which account those of the south are in- 
habited by the vegetables of Pennsylvania and the northern 
states, while the highlands of these abound in the plants of 
Canada. 

But the glories of the American flora are principally confined 
to Virginia and the southern states ; it is here that the unfad- 
ing verdure of the wide savannas, the solemn magnificence of 
the primeval forests, and the wild exuberance of the steaming 
swamps, offer to the astonished admiration of the botanist every 
thing that by colour, by fragrance, and by form, can delight 
the senses and fix the attention. 

Amouff the vefjetables that inhabit the low shores of the Flo- 
ridas, Georgia, and South Carolina, may be distinguished the 
mangrove tree, the only shrubby plant that can flourish in salt 
water, the fragrant and snowy-flowered pancratium of Carolina, 
and the splendid lobelia cardinalis. 

The low ridges of calcareous soil running parallel with the 
rivers, and rising from the level savannas into extensive lawns 
and swelling hills, are generally covered with open or,entangled 
woods, except where they have been converted into tillage by 
the industry of the inhabitants. In these rich tracts grow the 
lofty palmetto, the evergreen oak, the sweet bay, the benzoe 
laurel, the common laurel, the white shading broom pine, and 
the red cedar. The strait silvery columns of the papaw fig, 
rising to the height of twenty feet, and crowned by a canopy 
of broad sinuated leaves, form a striking feature in this deli- 
cious scenery ; while the golden fruit and fragrant blossoms of 
the orange, here realize the ancient traditions of the groves of 
the Hesperide^. .Superior, however, to all these is the tower- 



UNITED STATES. 67 

ng magnificence of the great magnolia: in this rich marley 
ioil it rises above a hundred feet, with a perfectly erect trunk, 
supporting a shady conical head of dark green foliage : tioni 
he centre of the coronets of leaves that terminate the branches 
expands a large rose-shaped blossom of pure white, which is 
iucceeded by a crimson one, containing the seefls of a beautiful 
;oral red colour, and these falhng from their cells remain for 
ieveral days suspended from the seed-vessel by a silkv thread, 
iix inches or more in length, so that whether in this state or in 
)lossoui it is second to none for grandeur and beauty. 

The level plains by the sides of rivers, and therefore gene- 
ally in a flooded state during the whole rainy season, are called 
lavannas. The trees that grow upon them are of the aquatic 
and, such as magnolia glauca, or beaver tree, American olive, 
md gordonia lausianthus, silvered over with fragrant blossoms : 
hese are generally either single, or grouped together into small 
)pen groves, while the larger part of the meadow is overgrown 
vith long succulent herbage, intermixed with shrubs and plants ; 
he candleberry myrtle, with numerous species of azaleas, kal- 
nias, andromedas, and rhododendrons, arranged by the hand 
)f nature into thickets and shrubberies entwined and over- 
irched by the crimson granadilla, or the fantastic clitf)ria, here 
lisplay their inimitable beauties in full luxuriance. The sides 
)f the pools and shallow ])lashes are adorned by the bright 
laerulean flowers of the ixia, the golden blossoms of the canna 
utea, and the rosy tufts of the hydrantjia, while the edoes of 
he groves, and the dubious boundaries of the savannas, risino- 
mperceptibly towards the forests, are fringed by innumerable 
^ay varieties of the phlox, by the shrinking sensitive plant, the 
rritable dionaea, the glowing amaryllis atamawco, and the im- 
jenctrable I'anks of the roval palmetto. \ 

The swamps are at all times, even in the hei|;ht of summer, 
or the most part under water, and are distinguished from the 
est of the country by the crowded stems of the cane, the lio-ht 
bliage of the tupelo tree, the taccamahacca, the fringe tree, 
md the white cedar. This last is perhaps the most picturesque 
ree in all Ainerica : four or live enonnous buttresses or rude 
pillars rise from the ground, and unite in a kind of ai-ch at the 



68 VIEW OF THE 

height of about seven feet, and from this centre tliere springs 
a straight column eighty or ninety feet high, ^vithout a branch : 
it then divides into a fiat umbrella-shaped top, covered with 
finely divided leaves of the most delicate green. This platform 
is the secure abode of the eagle and the crane ; and the oily 
seeds contained in its cones are the favourite repast of the par- 
roquets that are constantly fluttering around. 

Hundreds more of interesting plants yet remain, and we 
might go on to describe with unabated pleasure the profusion 
of various coloured lupines and dwarf palmettos that relieve 
the dusky hue of the pine forests in which they live ; the wild 
vines, the gourds, the bignonias, and other climbers that dis- 
play to the sun their fruits and glowing blossoms above the 
summits of the tallest trees ; we might describe the tent-like 
shade of the plantanus, the regal splendour of the crimson- 
flowered horse-chesnut, and the humbler, less obtrusive, yet 
not less exquisite beauties of the mcadin, the spigelia, and 
gaura; but these our limits will not admit: it is enough for 
the present purpose to have sketched some of the characteristic 
features in the botanv of a country, the most accessible of all 
the warmer climates to the investigation of European science. 

Zoologij. — The domestic zoology of the United States nearly 
correspnnds with that of the parent country, with some few 
shades of diflercnce in size and colour. Among the larger 
wil(^ animals may be mentioned the bison, la/ge herds of which 
used to be seen near the Mississipj)i, and they were once 
very numerous in the western parts of Virginia and i'ennsyl- 
vania. The musk bull and cow only appear in tlie more 
western regions, beyond the Mivssissippi. Anwng the animal?, 
now lost are classed the mammoth, whose enormous bones are 
particularly found near the salt springs upon die Ohio; and 
teeth of the hippopotamus are sjiid to have been dug up in 
Long island: but the labours of a late French naturalist have 
evinced that such remai)is often belong to animals long since 
extirpated, and of which he has traced more than twenty kinds. 
The mammoth of America, thougii armed \yith tusks of ivory, 
has been supposed to be even five or six times larger than the 
elephant; but the bones are probably the same with those o^.' 



UNITED STATES. 69 

the supposed elephant found in Siberia. The moose deer are 
become extremely rare, and will probably in no long time be 
utterly extirpated, as the wolf and boar have been in Britain. 
The black moose deer are said to have been sometimes twelve 
feet in height, wliile the species called the grey seldom exceed 
the height of a horse. Both have large palmated horns, weigh- 
ing thirty or forty pounds. Mr. Pennant mentions a pair that 
weighed fifty-six pounds, the length being thirty-two inches. 
The moose deer is only a large species of the elk, and is found 
in the northern parts of the United States ; while the rein deer 
inhabits the northern i-eg-ions of British America. The Ame- 
rican stag rather exceeds the European in size, and is seen in 
great numbers feeding in the rich savannas of the Missouri 
and Mississippi, where there are also herds of that kind called 
the Virginian deer. 

In the northern states are two kinds of bears, both black ; 
but that carnivorous animal called the ranging bear is found 
in all the states, as is the wolf. Several kinds of foxes are also 
«een f and the wolverine seems a kind of bear. The animal 
most dreaded is the catamount, or cat of the mountains, found 
in the northern and middle states, and is probably the same 
with the puma of Pennant, which he says is sometimes in North 
Anierica called the panther. One killed in New Hampsiiire 
was six feet in length, and the tail three ; but the length of the 
leg did not exceed twelve inches. The cougar is about five 
feet in length, and in the southern states is called the tiger : 
but it is well known that the ferocious animals of the new con- 
tinent are totally different from those of the old, there being 
neither lions, tigers, leopards, nor panthers, in the whole extent 
f>f America. A German missionary, who resided twenty -two 
years in Paraguay, describes the tiger of that country as marked 
with black spots, sometimes on a whitish, sometimes on a yel- 
"owisb ground ; and says that as the lions of Africa far exceed 
hose of Paraguay, so the African tigers greatly yield in size to 
he American; which may be just, as the royal tiger seems 
peculiar to Asia. But he adds that he has seen the skin of a 
iger three ells and two inches in length, or equal to that of a 
xrge ox. This animal easily carries oft' a horse or an ox ; and 



70 VIEW OF THE 

seems to exceed in size any American beast of prey admitted 
in the system of Buffon, whose fondness for theories is often to 
be lamented; and his jag-uar, or American tiger, seems only 
a diminutive species. Captains Lewis and Clerk frequently 
encountered the white and brown bear in the north-west inte- 
rior; an animal of a most ferocious description : they also saw 
herds of antelopes, buffaloes, and wolves. 

The lynx, the ocelot, and the margay, are smaller beasts of 
prey, of the cat kind. These and many other animals supply 
furs. The beaver is well known from the fur, and the singu- 
lar formation of his cabin, built in ponds for the sake of secu- 
rity ; but he seems to feed on the twigs of trees, and not on 
fish, as commonly supposed. 'J'his industrious animal is found 
in all the states, and is somewhat imitated by the musk rat, 
which likewise builds his hut in shallow streams. Some kinds 
of monkies are said to be found in the southern states. The 
morse, or sea cow, and the seal, used to frequent the northern 
shores; and the manati, common in South America, is said 
sometimes to ajjpear on the southern coasts : this animal, which 
has fore feet like hands, and a tail like a fish, while the breasts 
of the female resemble those of a woman, seems to be the mcr- 
nlaid of fable. 

Among the birds there are many kinds of eagles, vultures, 
owls, and numerous sorts called by European names, though 
generally different in the eye of the naturalist. The bird called 
a turkey is peculiar to America, and abounds in the north. 
They were brought from Mexico to Spain, and from Spain to 
England about 1524 ; the African poultry, or mclcagrides of 
more ancient authors, being Guinea fowls. There are also 
birds which resemble the partridge, ptarmigan, and quail, of 
Europe. Virginia abounds with beautiful birds, among w-hich 
is the humming bird, as already mentioned, while the wakon 
resembles the bird of paradise : and it may be conceived that 
vast varieties of aquatic birds crowd the numerous lakes and 
rivers, the largest being the wild swfui, which 'sometimes weighs 
thirty-six povmds. 

Upwards of one huudreil and tJiirty American birds have 
f>een ennmoratfd. and manv o^ ihom described by Catesbv. 



UNITED STATES. 



71 



efferson, and Carver. The following catalogue is inserted to 
ratify the curious, to inform the inquisitive, and to shew the 
stonishing variety in this beautiful part of the creation. 



?he Blackbird 

Razor-billed ditto 

Baltimore Bird 

Bastard Baltimore 

Blue Bird 

Buzzard 

Blue Jay 

Blue Grossbeak 

Brown Bittern 

Crested Bittern 

Small Bittern 

Booby 

Great Booby 

Blue Peter 

Bullfinch 

Bald Coot 

Cut Water 

White Curlew 

Cat Bird 

Cuckow 

Crow 

Cowpen Bird 



Sheldrach or Canvass Duek 

BufFels head ditto 

Spoon bill ditto 

Summer ditto 

Blackhead ditto 

Blue-winged Shoveller 

Little Brown Duck 

Sprigtail 

White-faced Teal 

Blue-winged Teal 

Pied-bill Dobchick 

Eagle 

Bald Eagle 

Flamingo 

Fieldfare of Carolina, or Robin 

Purple Finch 

Bahama Finch 

American Goldfinch 

Painted Finch 

Crested Fly-catcher 

Black-cap ditto 

Little brown ditto 



Chattering Plover or KildeeRed-eyed ditto 

Crane or Blue Heron Finch Creeper 

Yellow-breasted Chat 

Cormorant 

Hooping Crane 

l*ine Creeper 



Yellow-throated Creeper Goose 



Storm Finch 

Goat Sucker of Carolina 

Gull 

Laughing Gull 



Dove 

Ground Dove 
Duck 

Ilathera Duck 
Round-crested ditto 



Canada Goose 
Hawk 

Fishing Hawk 
Pigeon Hawk 
Night Hawk 



n 



VIEW OF THE 



The Swallow-tailed Hawk 
Hangbird 
Heron 

Little white Heron 
Heath-cock 
Humming-bird 
Purple Jackdaw, or Crow 

Blackbird 
King Bird 
King-fisher 
Loon 
Lark 

Large Lark 
Blue Linnet 
Mock-bird 
Mow-bird 
Purple Martin 
Nightingale 
Noddy 
Nuthatch 
Oyster-catcher 
Owl 

Screech Owl 

Amer. Partridge, or Quail 
Pheasant, or Mountain 

Partridge 
Water Pheasant 
Pelican 

Water Pelican 
Pigeon of Passage 
White-crowned Pigeon 
Parrot of Paradise 
Paroquet of Carolina 
Raven 
Rice-bird 
Red-bird 

Summer Red-bird 
Swan 



Soree 

Snipe 

Red Start 

Red- winged Starling 

Swallow 

Chimney ditto 

Snow-bird 

Little Sparrow 

Bahama ditto 

Stork 

Turkey 

Wild Turkey 

Tyrant 

Crested Titmouse 

Yellow ditto 

Bahama ditto 

Hooded ditto 

Yellow Rump 

Towhe Bird 

Red Thrush 

Fox-coloured Thrush 

Little Thrush 

Tropic Bird 

Turtle of Carolina 

Water-wagtail 

Water-hen 

Water-witch 

Wakon Bird 

AVhetsaw 

Large white bellied Woodpecker 

Large red-crested ditto 

Gold -winged ditto 

Red-bellied ditto 

Hairy ditto 

Red-headed ditto 

Yellow-bellied ditto 

Smallest-spotted ditto 

Wren 



UNITED STATES. 73 

Some of the frogs are of remarkable size ; and the tortoise, 
r turtle, supplies a delicious food, while the alligator is not 
nknown in the southern rivers. Of serpents Mr. Morse enu- 
lerates near forty kinds found in the United territories ; Vir- 
itiia, in particular, producing great numbers. The rattlesnake 
; the largest, being from four to six feet in length, and is one 
f the most dreaded. Among the fish are most of those which 
re esteemed in Europe ; and among those that are peculiar 
lay be mentioned that large kind of white trout found in the 
ikes. 

Natural Curiosities. — The natural curiosities of the United 
:ates are numerous, and have been investigated with that 
udable attention, which has been particularly directed by the 
nglish towards such interesting appearances. The following 
;count of the irruption of the Patomak through the Blue 
ountains is from the pen of Mr. Jefferson. 

' The passage of the Patomak through the Blue ridge is 
M'haps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You 
and on a very high point of land. On your right comes up 
le Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain 
1 hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the 
atomak, in quest of a passage also. In the moment of their 
nction, they rush together against the mountain, rend it 
under, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene 
jrries our senses into the opinion, that this earth has been 
eated in time, that the mountains were formed first, that the 
i'ers began to flow afterwards, that in this place particularly 
ey have been dammed up by the Blue ridge of mountains, 
id have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley ; that 
•ntinuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, 
id have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base, 
he piles of rock on each hand, but particularly the Shenan- 
)ah, the evident marks of their disruption and avulsion from 
eir beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate 
e impression. But the distant finishing which nature has 
ven to the picture is of a very different character. It is a 
Lie contrast to the fore ground. It is as placid and delightful 

that is wild and tremendous. For the mountain being cloven 
4 K 



74 VIEW OF THE 

asTHider, she presents to your eye, through the cleft, a small 
catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain 
country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult 
roai'ing around, to pass tlu'ough the breach, and participate of 
the calm below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and 
that way too the road happens actually to lead. You cross 
the Patomak above the junction, pass along its side through 
the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices 
hanging in fragments over you, and vvithin about twenty miles 
reach Frederick town and tlie fine country round that. This 
scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic. Yet here, as in 
the neighbourhoixl of the natural bridge, are people who have 
passed their lives within half a dozen miles, and have never 
been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and 
mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.' 
In the township of Tinmouth in Vermont, on the side of a 
small hill, is a very curious cave. The chasm, at its entrance, 
is about four feet in circumference. Entering this you descend 
104 feet, and then opens a spacious room, 20 feet in breadth 
and 100 feet in length. The angle of descent is about 45 de- 
grees. The roof of this cavern is of rock, through which the 
water is continually percolating. 1 he stalactites which hang 
from the roof appear like icicles on the eves of houses, and are 
continually increasing in number and magnitude. The bottom 
and sides are daily incrusting with spar and other mineral sub- 
stances. On the sides of this subterraneous hall are tables, 
chairs, benches, &c, which appear to have been artificially 
carved. This richly ornamented room, when illuminated with 
the candles of the guides, has an enchantitig effect upon the 
eye of the spectator. If we might be indulged in assigning 
the general cause of these astonishing appearances, we should 
conclude, from the various circumstances accompanying them, 
that they arise from water filtrating slowly through the incum- 
bent strata; and taking in its passage a variety of mineral 
substances, and becoming thus saturated with metallic particles, 
gradually exuding on the surface of the caverns and fissures, 
in a quiescent state, the aqueous particles evaporate, and leave 
the mineral substances to unite according to their affinities. 



EKGKAVED FOK MACKEICZIE'S A&IEKir.A. 




VlEW.OF THE jROCK BiRIOGE , 
//,■/(;•/,( 9/,-i /?a. Span <^0 dfi. r/firZ-nc-A? of t/u a.r.-h-4(?(io 



UNITED STATES. 7^ 

At the end of this cave is a circular hole, fifteen feet deep, ap- 
parently hewn out, in a conical form, enlarging gradually as 
you descend, in the form of a sugar loaf. At the bottom is a 
spring of fresh water, in continual motion, like the boiling of a 
pot. Its depth has never been sounded. 

In the county of Rockbridge is a remarkable natural bridge 
of rock, from which the county takes its name. ' This bridge,' 
says Mr. Weld, ' stands about ten miles from Fluvanna river, 
and nearly the same distance from the Blue ridge. It extends 
across a deep cleft in a mountain, which, by some great con- 
vulsion of nature, has been split asunder from top to bottom, 
and it seems to have been left there purposely to afford a pas- 
sage from one side of the chasm to the other. The cleft or 
chasm is about two miles long, and is in some places upwards 
of 800 feet deep ; the depth varies according to the height of 
the mountain, being deepest where the mountain is most lofty. 
The breadth of the chasm also varies in different places : but 
in every part it is uniformly wider at the top than towards the 
bottom. That the two sides of the chasm were once united 
appears very evident, not only from projecting rocks on the 
one side corresponding with suitable cavities on the other, but 
also from the diflPerent strata of earth, sand, clay, &c. being 
exactly similar from top to bottom on both sides : but by what 
great agent they were separated, whether by fire or by water, 
remains hidden amongst those arcana of nature which we vainly 
endeavour to develope. 

*The arch consists of a solid mass of stone, or of several 
stones cemented so strongly together that they appear but as 
one. This mass, it is to be supposed, at the time that the hill 
was rent asunder, was drawn across the fissure, from adhering 
closelv to one side, and beins: loosened from its bed of earth at 
the opposite one. It seems as probable, I think, that the mass 
of stone forming the arch was thus forcibly plucked from one 
side, and drawn across the fissure, as that the hill should have 
remained disunited at this one spot from top to bottom, and 
that a passage should afterwards have been forced through it 
by water. The road leading to the bridge runs through n, 
thick wood, and up a hill ; having ascended which, nearly at 



n't? VIEW OF THE 

the top, you pause for a moment at finding a sudden disconti- 
nuance of the trees at one side ; but the amazement which fills 
the mind is great indeed, when on going a few paces towards 
the part which appears thus open, you find yourself on the 
brink of a tremendous precipice. You involuntarily draw 
back, stai'e around, then again come forward to satisfy yourself 
that what you have seen is real, and not the illusions of fancy. 
You now perceive that you are upon the top of the bridge ; to 
the very edge of which, on one side, you may approach with 
safety, and look down into the abyss, being protected from 
falling by a parapet of fixed rocks. The walls, as it were, of 
the bridge, at this side, are so perpendicular, that a person 
leaning over the parapet of rock might let fall a plummet from 
the hand to the ver}' bottom of tiie chasm. On the opposite 
side this is not the case, nor is there any parapet ; but from 
the edge of the road, which runs over the bridge, is a gradual 
slope to the brink of the chasm, upon which it is somewhat 
dangerous to venture. This slope is thickly covered with large 
trees, principally cedars and pines. The opposite side was 
also well furnished with trees formerly, but all those which 
grew near the edge of the bridge have been cut down by dif- 
ferent people, for the sake of seeing them tumble to the bot- 
tom. Before the trees were destroyed in this manner, you 
might have passed over the bridge without having had any 
idea of being upon it ; for the breadth of it is no less than 
eighty feet. The road runs nearly in the middle, and is fre- 
quented daily by waggons. 

' At the distance of a few yards from the bridge, a narrow 
path appears, winding along the sides of the fissure, amidst 
immense rocks and trees, down to the bottom of the bridge. 
Here the stupendous arth appears in all its glory, and seems 
to touch the very skies. To behold it without rapture, indeed, 
is impossible ; and tiie more critically it is examined, the more 
beautiful and the more surprising does it appear. The height 
of the bridge to the top of the parapet is 213 feet by admea- 
surement with a line ; the thickness of the arch 40 feet ; the | 
span of the arch at top 90 feet ; and the distance between the 
abutments at bottom 50 feet. The abutments consist of a. 



UNITED STATES. V 

solid mass of limestone on either side, and, together with the 
arch, seem as if they had been chiselled out by the hand of 
art. A small stream, called Cedar creek, running at the bot- 
tom of the fissure, over beds of rocks, adds much to the beauty 
of the scene. 

* The fissure takes a very sudden turn just above the bridge, 
according to the course of the stream, so that when you stand 
below, and look under the arch, the view is intercepted at the 
distance of about 50 yards from the bridge. Mr. Jefferson's 
statement, in his notes, that the fissure continues straight, ter- 
minating with a pleasing view of the North mountains, is quite 
erroneous. The sides of the chasm are thickly covered in 
every part with trees, excepting where the huge rocks of lime- 
stone appear. 

' Besides this view from below, the bridge is seen to very 
great advantage from a pinnacle of rocks, about 50 feet below 
Lhe top of the fissure ; for here not only the arch is seen in all 
its beauty, but the spectator is impressed in the most forcible 
manner with ideas of its grandeur, from being enabled at the 
same time to look down into the profound gulf over which it 
passes.' 

In Vermont there is a remarkable impendent ledge of rocks, 
ibout 200 feet high, on the west bank of the river Connecticut. 
Rattlesnake hill, in New Hampshire, presents a stalactitic cave ; 
md near Durham is a rock so poised on another, as to move 
ivith one finger ; a natural remain of a ruined hill, though in 
England it would be called druidical. The rivulet in Massa- 
•husetts, called Hudson's brook, has excavated in a fantastic 
nanner a large rock of white marble. The falls of the river 
^owow, in the same province, are not only curious in them- 
elves, but present many grotesque mills, and other mormments 
f industry; and a similar appearance occurs on the river 
'autukit in Rhode island. In Connecticut is a cave which 
as for some time the retreat of Whaley and Goffe, two of the 
idges of Charles I. : and in the town of Pomfret is another, 
^^ndered remarkable by a humourous adventure of general 
utnam. 



78 VIEW OF THE 

In the province of New York a rivulet runs under a hill 
about 70 yards in diameter, forming a beautiful arch in the 
rock ; and there is a stalactitic cave in which was found the 
petrified skeleton of a large snake. The falls of the Mohawk 
river, called Cohez, are more remarkable for the width of the 
stream, than from the height of the descent. There is a beau- 
tiful cascade in Fayette county, Pennsylvania, over a semicir- 
cular rock of marble. In Pennsylvania there are also some 
remarkable caves, one of which resembles a church with pillars 
and monuments. In the territory on the north-west of the 
Ohio, the savannas, or rich plains, extend for 30 or 40 miles 
without any tree ; they are crowded with deer, wild cattle, and 
turkeys, and often visited by bears and wolves : but this dis- 
trict is, chiefly remarkable for a number of old forts, of an ob- 
long form, with an adjoining tumulus or tomb. As the 
Mexicans have a tradition that they passed from the north, 
these forts may perhaps be remains of their first residence, or 
of some nation which they subdued. In the western part of 
Maryland there are said to be some remarkable caves : and 
others occur in Virginia, particularly that called Madison*'s 
cave, on the north-west side of the Blue ridge, extending about 
300 feet into the solid limestone. The blowing cave emits a 
strong current of air, particularly in frosty weather. In Ken- 
tucky, the banks of the river so called, and of Dick's river, are 
sometimes 400 feet in height of limestone, or white marble ; 
and there are said to be caverns of some miles in length, thus 
rivalling the celebrated cave in Carinthia. The territory on 
the south of the Ohio (Tennessee) presents a remarkable ledge 
of rocks in the Cumberland mountains, about 30 miles in 
length, and 200 feet thick, with a perpendicular face to the 
south-east. The whirl is more grand than the irruption of 
the Patomak through the Blue ridge : the Tennessee, which a 
few miles above is half a mile wide, contracts to 100 yards, 
and forces its way through this outer ridge of the Apalachian, 
forming a whirlpool by striking against a large rock. In 
Georgia the chief curiosity is a large bank of oyster shells, 90 
miles from the sea, to which it runs nearly parallel : if the 



UNITED STATES. 79 

river Savannah never passed in that direction, it is probable 
that the land has gained so far on the ocean. So late as the 
year 1771 there was an excellent harbour, which might receive 
one hundred ships in a good depth of water, at cape Lookout, 
North Carolina. It is now entirely filled up, and is solid 
ground. 

Such are the most striking features of nature in this exten- 
sive empire ; where, if there be no interesting objects of anti- 
quity, yet the lovers of the sublime and beautiful in the creation 
may find sufficient to contemplate and admire. 



PARTICULAR ACCOUNT 



OF THE SEVERAL 



STATES AND TERRITORIE.^ 



COMPREHENDED IN THE 



UNITED STATES. 



NEW ENGLAND. 

SEVERAL things are common to all the states east of New 
York. Their history, religion, manners, customs, and cha- 
racter; their climate, soil, productions, and natural history, 
are in many respects similar. These considerations have led 
to the following general description of New England. 

Extent. — This fine province is in length 350 miles, by a me- 
dial breadth of 140. 

Boundaries. — New England is bounded, north by Canada; 
east by Nova Scotia and the Atlantic ocean ; south by the At- 
lantic and Long island sound ; and west by New York. It 
lies in the form of a quarter of a circle. Its west line, begin- 
ning at the mouth of Byram river, which empties into Long 
island sound, at the south-west corner of Connecticut, latitude 
41 deg., runs a little east of north, until it strikes the 45th de- 
gree of latitude, and then curves to the^ eastward almost to the 
gulf of St. Lawrence. 

Civil Divisions. — New England is divided into five states, 
viz. New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode island, Connecti- 



VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES. 81 

cut, and Vermont. These states are subdivided into counties, 
and the counties into townships. 

Face of the Country^ Mountains, ^c. — New England is a 
high, hilly, and in some parts a moimtainous country, formed 
by nature to be inhabited by a hardy race of free, independent 
republicans. The mountains are comparatively small, running 
nearly north and south in ridges parallel to each other. Be- 
tween these ridges flow the great rivers in majestic meanders, 
receiving the innumerable rivulets and larger streams which 
proceed from the moimtains on each side. To a spectator on 
the top of a neighbouring mountain, the vales between the 
ridges, while in a state of nature, exhibit a romantic appearance. 
They seem an ocean of woods, swelled and depressed in its 
surface like that of the great ocean itself. A richer, though 
less romantic view, is presented, when the vaUies, by industrious 
husbandnien, have been cleared of their natural growth ; and 
the fruit of their labour appears in loaded orchards, extensive 
meadows covered with large herds of sheep and neat cattle, 
and rich fields of flax, corn, and the various kinds jof grain. 

These vallies, which have i-eceived the expressive name of 
interval lands, are of various breadths, from two to twenty 
miles ; and by the annual inundations of the rivers which flow 
through them, there is frequently an accumulation of rich, fat 
soil, left upon their surface when the waters retire. 

There are four principal ranges of mountains passing nearly 
from north-east to south-west, through New England. These 
consist of a multitude of parallel ridges, each having many 
spurs, deviating from the course of the general range ; which 
spurs are again broken into irregular, hilly land. The main 
ridges terminate sometimes in high bluff heads, near the sea 
coast, and sometimes by a gradual descent in the interior part 
of the country. One of the main ranges runs between Con- 
necticut and Hudson's rivers. This range branches, and 
bounds the vales through which flows the Housatonick river. 
The most eastern ridge of this range terminates in a bluff head 
at Meriden. A second ends in like manner at Willingford, 
and a third at New Haven. 

I. 



S2 VIEW OF THE 

In Lyme, ou the east side of Connecticut river, another 
range of mountains commences, forming the eastern boundary 
of Connecticut vale. This range trends northerly, at the dis- 
tance generally of about ten or twelve miles east from the river, 
and passes through Massachusetts, where the range takes the 
name of Chicabee mountain ; thence crossing into New Hamp- 
shire, at the distance of about twenty miles from the Massachu- 
setts line, it runs up into a very high peak, called Monadnick, 
which terminates this ridge of the range. A western ridge 
continues, and in about latitude 43 deg. 20 min. runs up into 
Sunipee mountains. About 50 miles further, in the same 
ridge, is Mooscoog mountain. 

A third range begins near Stonington in Connecticut. It 
takes its course north-easterly, and is sometimes broken and 
discontinued ; it then rises again, and ranges in the same di- 
rection into New Hampshire, where, in lat. 43 deg. 25 rain., 
it runs up into a high peak, called Cowsawaskoog. 

The fourth range has a humble beginning about Hopkinton, 
in Massachusetts The eastern ridge of this range runs north, 
by Watertown and Conco)d, and crosses Merrimack river at 
Pantucket falls. In New Hampshire it rises into several high 
peaks, of whicli the White mountains are the principal. From 
these White mountains a range continues north-east, crossing 
the east boundary of New Hampshire, in lat. 43 deg. 30 min., 
and forms the height of land between Kennebeck and Chau- 
diere rivers. 

These ranges of mountains are full of lakes, ponds, and 
springs of water, that give rise to numberless streams of various 
sizes, which, interlocking each other in every direction, and 
falling over the rocks in romantic cascades, flow meandering 
into the rivers below. No country on the globe is better wa- 
tered than New England. 

On the sea coast the land is low, and in many parts level and 
sandy. In the vallies, between the foremen tioned ranges of 
mountains, the land is generally broken, and in many places 
rocky, but of a strong rich soil, capable of being cultivated to 
good advantage, which also is the case with many spots even 
on the tops of the mountains. 



UNITED STATES. 83 

Rivers. — The only river which will be described under New 
England is Connecticut river. It rises in a sv/amp on the 
height of land, in lat. 45 deg. 10 min. After a sleepy course 
of eight or ten miles, it tumbles over four separate falls, and 
turning west, keeps close under the hills which form tiie north- 
ern boundary of the vale through which it runs. The Amo- 
noosuckand Israel rivers, two principal branches of Connecticut 
river, fall into it from the east, between the latitudes 44 and 
45 deg. Between the towns of Walpole on the cast, and 
Westminster on the west side of the river, are the great falls. 
The whole river, compressed between two rocks scarcely 30 
feet asunder, shoots with amazing rapidity into a broad bason 
below. Over tliese falls, a bridge 160 feet in length, was built 
in 1784, under wliich the highest floods may pass without de- 
triment. This is the first bridge that was ever erected over 
this noble river. Above Deerfield, in Massachusetts, it re- 
ceives Deerfield river from the west, and Miller's river from 
the east ; after which it turns westerly in a sinuous course to 
Fighting falls, and a little after tumbles over Deerfield falls, 
which are impassable by boats. At Windsor, in Connecticut, 
it receives Farminopton river fronj the west : and at Hartford, 
meets the tide. From Hai'tford it passes on in a crooked 
course, until it falls into Long island sound, between Saybrook 
and Lyme. 

The length of this river, in a straight line, is nearly 300 
miles. Its general course is several degrees west of south. It 
is from 80 to 100 rods wide, 130 miles from its mouth. 

At its mouth is a bar of sand which considerably obstructs 
the na-s'igation. Ten feet water at full tides is found on this 
bar, and the same depth to Middleton. The distance of the 
bar from this place, as the river runs, is 36 miles. Above 
Middleton are several shoals which stretch quite across the 
river. Only six feet water is found on the shoal at high tide, 
and here the tide ebbs and flows but about eight inches. About 
three miles below ^liddleton, the river is contracted to about 
40 rods in breadth, by two high mountains. Almost every 
where else the banks are low, and spread into fine extensive 
meadows. In the spring floods, which generally happen in 



84 VIEW OF THE 

May, these meadows are covered with water. At Hartford 
the water sometimes rises 20 feet above the common surface of 
the river, and having all to pass through tlie above-mentioned 
strait, it is sometimes two or three weeks before it returns to 
its usual bed. These floods add nothing to the depth of water 
on the bar at the mouth of the river ; this bar lying too far off* 
in the sound to be aifected by them. 

On this beautiful river, whose banks are settled almost to its 
source, are many pleasant, neat, well-built towns. It is navi- 
gable to Hartford, upwards of 50 miles from its mouth ; and 
the produce of the country, for 200 miles above, is brought 
thither in boats. The boats which are used in this business 
are flat-bottomed, long, and narrow, for the convenience of 
going up the stream, and of so light a make as to be portable 
in carts. They are taken out of the river at three different 
carrying places, all of which make iifteeu miles. Sturgeon, 
salmon, and shad are caught in plenty, in their season, from 
the mouth of the river upwards, excepting sturgeon, which do 
not ascend the upper falls ; besides a variety of small fish, such 
as pike, carp, perch, &c. 

Natural Productions.— The soil, as may be collected from 
what has been said, must \ye very \anous. Each tract of dif- 
ferent soil is distinguished by its peculiar vegetation, and is 
pronounced good, middling, or bad, from the species of trees 
which it produ-ces ; and one species generally predominating in 
each soil, has wiginated tlie descriptive names of oak land ; 
birch, beecli, and chesnut lands ; pine barren ; ma})le, ash, and 
cedar swamps, as each species happeji to predominate. Inter- 
mingled widi these predcmiinaling species are walnut, firs, elm. 
hemlock, magnolia, or moose wood, sassafras, &c. istc. Tlie 
best lands produce walnut and cliesnut ; the next, beech and 
oak ; the lands of the tlilid quality produce fir and pitch pine ; 
the next, whortuberry and barberry bushes ; and the poorest 
produces noticing but poor marshy imperfect shrubs, which is 
the lowest kind of ^iijfnde.v vegetation. 

Among the flowering trees and shrubs in the forests, are the 
red -flowering maple, the sassafras, the locust, the tulip tree. 
t\\o chesnut, the wild cherry, prune, crab, sloe, pear, honey- 



UNITED STATES. 85 

suckle, Avildrose, dogwood, elm, leather tree, laurel, hawthorn, 
&c. which in the spring of the year give the woods a most 
beautiful appearance, and fill them with a delicious fragrance. 

Among the fruits which grow wild, are the several kinds of 
grapes, which are small, sour, and thick skinned. The vines 
on which they grow are very luxuriant, often overspreading 
the highest trees in the forests. These wild vines, without 
doubt, might be greatly meliorated by proper cultivation, and 
a wine be produced from the grapes equal, if not superior, to 
the celebrated wines of France. Besides these, are the wild 
cherries, white and red mulberries, cranberries, walnuts, hazle- 
nuts, chesnuts, butter nuts, beech nuts, wild plums and pears, 
whortleberries, bilberries, gooseberries, sti'awberries, &c. 

The soil in the interior country is calculated for the culture 
of Indian corn, rye, oats, barley, flax, and hemp, for which 
the soil and climate are peculiarly proper ; buck-wheat, beans, 
peas, &c. In many of die inland parts wheat is raised in large 
quantities ; but on the sea coast it has never been cultivated 
with success, being subject to blasts. Various reasons have 
been assigned for this. Some have supposed that the blasts 
were occasioned by the saline vapours of the sea ; others have 
attributed them to the vicinity of barlierry bushes ; but per- 
haps the sandiness and poverty of the soil may be as efficacious 
a cause as either of the others. 

The fruits which the country yields from culture are, apples 
in the greatest plenty ; of these cider is made, which consti- 
tutes the principal drink of the inhabitants ; also, pears of va- 
rious sorts, quinces, peaches, from which is made peach brandy, 
plums, cherries, apricots, &c. The culinary plants are such as 
Jiave already been CMumerated. 

New England is a fine grazing country ; the vallies betwewi 
the hills are generally intersected with brooks of water, tlie 
banks of which are lined with a tract of rich meadow or inter- 
val land. The high and rocky ground is, in many parts, co- 
vered with honey-suckle, and generally affords the finest of 
pasture. It will not be a matter of wcmder, therefore, that 
New England boasts of raising some of the finest cattle in the 
world ; nor will she be envied, when the labour of raisinff them 



86 VIEW OF THE 

is taken into view. Two months of the hottest season in the 
year, the farmers are employed in procuring food for their 
cattle ; and the cold winter is spent in dealing it out to them. 

Manners and Customs. — New England is the most populous 
part of the United States; the greater proportion of which 
consists of a strong and healthy veDmanry and cultivators of 
the soil. They are almost universally of English descent. 
Learning, from the establishment of schools in every township, 
is very generally diffused among all ranks of people; so that a 
person who cannot read and write is rarely to be found. Like 
all people who are confined to a domestic life, they have been 
accused of an hnperthient Inquisltiveness. Their politics ren- 
der them independent, proud, and dictatorial ; from which ori- 
ginates that restless, litigious, complaining spirit, which forms 
a dark shade in the character of New Englandmen. They 
have been depicted in the following manner by an American 
writer. 

' The New Englanders are generally tall, stout, and well- 
built. They glory, and perhaps with justice, in possessing 
that spirit of freedom, which induced their ancestors to leave 
their native country, and to brave the dangers of the ocean, 
and the hardships of settling a wilderness. Their education, 
laws, and situation, serve to inspire them with high notions of 
liberty. Their jealousy is awakened at the first motion toward 
an invasion of their rights. Thev are indeed often jealous to 
excess; a circumstance which is a fruitful source of imaginary 
grievances, and of innumerable groundless suspicicms, and un- 
just complaints against government. But these ebuUitions of 
jealousy, though censurable and productive of some political 
evils, shew that the essence of true liberty exists in New Eng- 
land: for jealousy is the guardian of liberty, and a character- 
istic of free reTinblieans. A law, respecting the descent of 
estates which are generally held in fee simple, winch for sub- 
stance is the same in all the New ]]ngland states, is the chief 
foundation ;uul ])rotection of this liberty. By this law, the 
possessions of the father arc to be equally divided among all 
the children, exceptiiig tlie eldest son, who has a double poiv 
t'on. In t?>,i? way is preserved that happy medioo'ity among 



UNITED STATES. 87 

the people, which, by inducing economy and industry, removes 
from them temptations to luxury, and forms them to habits of 
sobriety and temperance. At the same time, their industry 
and frugaUty exempt them from want, and from the necessity 
of submitting to any encroachment on their hberties. 

* The people of New England generally obtain their estates 
by hard and persevering labour : they of consequence know 
their value, and spend with frugality. Yet in no country do 
the indigent fare better. Their laws oblige every town to 
provide a competent maintenance for their poor, and the ne- 
cessitous stranger is protected and relieved from their humane 
institutions. It may in truth be said, that in no part of the 
world are the people happier, better furnished with the neces- 
saries and conveniences of life, or more independent than the 
farmers of New England. As the great body of the people are 
hardy, independent freeholders, their manners are, as they 
ought to be, congenial to their employment, plain, simple, and 
impoUshed Strangers are received and entertained among 
them with a great deal of artless sincerity, friendly and un- 
formal hospitality. Their children, those imitative creatures, 
to whose education particular attention is paid, early imbibe 
the manners and habits of those around them ; and the stranger, 
with pleasure, notices the honest and decent respect that is paid 
him by the children as he passes through the country. 

* As the people, by representation, make their own laws and 
appoint their own officers, they cannot be oppressed ; and living 
under governments in which few have lucrative places, they 
have few motives to bribery, corrupt canvassings, or intrigue. 
Real abilities and moral character unblemished, are the qualifi- 
cations requisite in the view oi" most people for officers of public 
trust. The expression of a wish to be promoted is the direct 
way to be disappointed. 

' The inhabitants of New England are generally fond of the 
arts, and have cultivated them with great success. Their col- 
leges have flourished beyond any others in the United States. 
The illustrious characters they have produced, who have dis- 
tinguished themselves in politics, law, divinity, the mathematics- 



88 VIEW OF THE 

and philosophy, natural and civil history, and in the fine arts, 
particularly in poetry, evince the truth of these observations. 

' Many of the women of New England are handsome. They 
generally have fair, fresh, and healthful countenances, mingled 
with much female softness and delicacy. Those who have 
had the advantages of a good education (and they are consi- 
derably nimierous) are genteel, easy, and agreeable in their 
manners, and are sprightly and sensible in conversation. They 
are early taught to manage domestic concerns with neatness and 
economy. Ladies of the first rank and fortune make it a part 
of their daily business to superintend the affairs of the family. 
Employment at the needle, in cookery, and at the spinning 
wheel, with them is honourable. Idleness, even in those of 
independent fortune, is universally disreputable. The women 
in the country manufacture the greatest part of the clothing of 
their families. Their linen and woollen cloths are strong and 
decent. Their butter and cheese is not inferior to any in the 
world. 

' Dancing is the principal and favourite amusement in New 
England ; and of this the young people of both sexes are ex- 
tremely fond. Gaming is practised by none but those who 
cannot, or rather will not find a reputable employment. The 
gamester, the horse-jockey, and the knave, are equally despised, 
and their company is avoided by all who would sustain fair and 
irreproachable characters. The odious and inhuman practices 
of duelling, gouging, cock-fighting, and horse-racing, are 
scarcely known here, 

' The athletic and healthy diversions of cricket, foot-ball, 
quoits, wrestling, jumping, hopping, foot-races, and prison- 
bass, are universally practised in the country, and some of 
them in the most populovis places^ and by people of almost all 
ranks. Squirrel-hunting is a noted diversion in country places, 
where this kind of game is plenty. Some divert themselves 
with fox-hunting, and others with the more profitable sports of 
fishing and duck-hunting : and in the frontier settlements, 
where deer and fur game abound, the inhabitants make a lu- 
crative sport of hunting them. 



UNITED STATES. 89 

* In the winter season, while the ground is covered with 
snow, which is commonly two or three months, sleighing is the 
general diversion. A great part of the families throughout the 
country are furnished with horses and sleighs. Tiie young 
people collect in parties, and with a great deal of sociability, 
resort to a place of rendezvous, where they regale themselves 
for a few hours with dancing and a social supper, and then re- 
tire. These diversions, as well as all others, are many times 
carried to excess.. To these excesses, and a sudden exposure 
to extreme cold after the exercise of dancing, physicians have 
ascribed the consumptions, which are so frequent among the 
young people in New England.' 

History. — New England owc^ its first settlement to religious 
persecution. Soon after the conuiiencement of the reformation 
in England, which was not until the year 1534, the protestants 
were divided into two parties ; one the followers of Luther, and 
the other of Calvin. The former had chosen gradually, and 
almost imperceptibly, to recede from the church of Rome; 
while the latter, more zealous, and convinced of the importance 
of a thorough reformation, and at the same time possessing much 
firmness and high notions of religious liberty, were for effect- 
ing a thorough change at once. Their consequent endeavours 
to expunge from the church all the inventions which had beeai 
brought into it since the days of the apostles, and to introduce 
the ' Scripture purity,' derived for them the name of Puritans. 
From these the inhabitants of Nevv England descended. 

During the successive reigns of Henry VIII., Mary, Elizar 
beth, and James I., tlxe protestants, and especially the puritans, 
were the objects of bloody persecution ; and thousands of thera 
were eitlier inhumanly burnt, or left more cruelly to perish iu 
prisons and dungeons. 

In 1602, a number of religious people in the north of Eng- 
land, finding their ministers urged with subscription., or si- 
lenced^ and themselves greatly oppressed with the commissary 
courts and otherwise, entered into a solemn covenant with each 
other, ' to walk with God and one another, in the enjoyment 
of the ordinances of God according to the primitive pattern,' 
whatever it might cost them. 

M 



00 VIEW OF THE 

Among the ministers who entered into this association, was 
Mr. Robinson, a man of eminent piety and learning, and the 
father of New England. 

In 1608, Mr. Robertson's church moved to Amsterdam in 
Holland, and the next year to Leyden, where they lived in 
great friendship and harmony among themselves and their 
neighbours, until they removed to New England. 

As early as 1617, Mr. Robinson and his church meditated 
a removal to America. Their motives for this were, to pre- 
serve the morals of their youth ; to prevent them, through 
want of employment, from leaving their parents, and engaging 
in business unfriendly to religion ; to avoid the inconveniences 
of incorporating with the Dutch; and to la}' a foundation for 
propagating the gospel in remote parts of the world. Such 
were the true reasons of their removal. 

Their agents went to England, and in 1619 obtained of the 
Virginian company a patent of the northern parts of Virginia ; 
but the king could not be prevailed upon to grant them liberty 
of conscience. However, at last he agreed to connive at their 
nonconformity. Mr. Brewster, a minister, headed the first 
band of adventurers, wlio on the 9th of November, after a 
dangerous vo%'age, arrived at cape Cod. It is alleged by the 
historians of the time, that the Dutch had bribed the master 
to create various delays, and to land them thus far north, to 
discourage them from venturing to the place of their destination. 

As they were not within the limits of their patent, and con- 
sequently not under the jurisdiction of the Virginia company, 
they concluded it necessary to establish a separate government 
for themselves. Accordingly, before they landed, having on 
their knees devoutly given thanks to God for their safe arrival, 
they formed themselves into a body politic, by a solemn con- 
tract, to which they all subscribed, thereby making it the 
basis of their government. They chose Mr. John Carver, a 
gentleman of piety and approved abihties, to be their governor 
for the first year. This was on the 11th of November. 

Their next object was to fix on a convenieut place for settle- 
ment. In doing this they were obliged to encounter numerous 
difficulties, and to suffer incredible hardships. Many of tliem 



UNITED STATES. 91 

were sick in consequence of the fatigues of a long voyage — 
their provisions were bad — the season was uncommonly cold — 
the Indians, though afterwards friendly, were now hostile — and 
they were unacquainted with tiie coast. These difficulties they 
surmounted ; and on the 31st of December they were all safely 
landed at a place, which, in grateful commemoration of Ply- 
mouth in England, the town which they last left in their native 
land, they called Plymouth. This is the first English town 
that was settled in New England. 

In some of their excursions in search of a suitable place for 
settlement, they found buried several baskets of Indian corn, 
to the amount of ten bushels, which fortunately served them 
for planting the next spring, and perhaps was the means of 
presei'ving them from perishing with hunger. They made 
diligent enquiry for the owners, whom they found, and after- 
wards paid the full value of the corn. 

Before the end of November, Susanna, the wife of William 
White, was delivered of a son, whom they called Peregrine. 
He is supposed to have been the first child of European ex- 
tract born in New England. 

I'he whole company that landed consisted of but 101 souls. 
Their situation was distressing, and their prospect truly dismal 
and discouraging. Their nearest neighbours, except the ria- 
tives, w&i'fi a French settlement ai Port Royal, and one of the 
English at Virginia. The nearest of these was 500 miles from 
them, and utterly incapable of affording them relief in a time 
of famine and danger. To add to their distresses, a general 
and very mortal sickness prevailed among them, which swept 
off forty-six of their number befoi'e the opening of the next 
spring. 

On the 3d of November, 16^0, king James signed a patent 
incorporating the duke of Lenox, the marquisses of Bucking- 
ham and Hamilton, the earls of Arundel and Warwick, Sir 
Francis Gorges, with thirty-four others, and their successors- 
styling them, ' The council established at Plymouth in the 
county of Devon, for the planting, ruling, ordering, and go- 
verning of New England in America.'' To this council he 
granted all that part of America which lies between the 40th 



92 VIEW OF THE 

and 45th degrees of north latitude. This patent is the great 
civil basis of all the grants and patents by which New England 
was afterwards divided. 

The Plymouth council retained the power vested in them 
by the crown until the year 1635, when they resigned their 
charter. Previous to this, however, the council had made se- 
veral grants of land to adventurers, who proposed to settle in 
New England. They granted New Hartipshire to captain 
John Mason, in 1621 ; the province of Maine, to Sir R. Gor- 
ges, in 1622; and Massachusetts bay to Sir Henry Roswell 
and five others, in 1627. 

In defiance of every difficulty, the colony gradually increased 
in strength. The Indians were conciliat<?d, several quaker and 
baptist refugees fled to within the Plymouth bounds, and in 
1629 another company of Leydeners came over. New Eng- 
land now began to flourish ; and in forty years from this time, 
one hundred and twenty towns were settled and forty churches 
established. This rapid increase of the population was occa- 
sioned by the persecution of the puritans in England, and the 
inroads made upon the civil liberties of the subject ; and which 
induced lords Brook, Say and Seal, tlie Pelhams, the Hamp- 
dens, and the Pyn)s, to obtain and settle upon large tracts of 
land in New England. 

The jealousy of the Dutch, and the successive plots of the 
surrounding Indians, in 1643 compelled the colonies of Ply- 
mouth, Massachusetts, and New England, to enter into an 
alliance and confederacy for their mutual defence. Two com- 
missioners from each colony formed a congress, and were con- 
sidered as the representatives of ' The United Colonies of New 
England.' It is worthy of remark, that this arrangement 
seems to have been exactly copied in the confederation agreed 
upon by the United States in 1778. 



UNITED STATES. 



NEW HAMPSHIRE. 

J^JEW HAMPSHIRE is situated between 42 deg. 42 min. 
and 45 deg. 13 min. north latitude, and 4 deg. 23 min. 
and 6 deg. 10 min. east longitude. Its greatest length is 182, 
and its greatest breadth 92 miles. Its area is 9800 square 
miles, containing 6,272,000 acres. 

Civil Divisions. — The state is divided into six counties, and 
219 townships, of six miles square each. 

Natural Geography. — The state has about 15 miles of sea 
coast, from whence it extends in breadth, and is generally level 
towards the sea, rising gradually from 20 to 30 miles, when the 
mountains commence, and these are more lofty than in any 
other part of the United States ; the White mountains being 
visible 30 miles out at sea, and computed by Dr. Belknap at 
10,000 feet, by Mr. Williams at 7800. There are several 
lakes in the state, but none of any great importance, except 
Winnipiseogee, near the centre, ,24 miles long, and of unequal 
breadth, from 3 to 12 miles. It is full of islands, and being 
navigable in summer, and frozen over in winter, it proves a 
considerable convenience to that part of the country. The 
principal river is Connecticut, which is the boundary line be- 
tween this state and Vermont. The Piscataqua is the boun- 
dary line, for a little way, between this state and the district of 
Maine ; and forms the harbour for the only shipping port in 
New Hampshire. There is a singular curiosity in the state 
called the Notch, which is a pass through the mountains, at 
one place only 22 feet wide; and, being bounded by rocks al- 
most perpendicular aod of great height, presents a scene strik- 
ingly picturesque. 

The soil, near the sea coast, is in some places sandy, but 
near the banks of rivers generally good, as is likewise the case 
in the valleys among the mountains. The mountains are, 



94. VIEW OF THE 

many of them, rocky and barren ; but others are fertile on the 
brows, and nearly all are covered with timber. 

The climate is health}^ ; but the winters are long and severe, 
and there are great extremes of heat and cold. Mr. Belknap 
has observed the thermometer at 18 deg. below 0, and in sum- 
mer it has risen to nearlv 100 deo^. : its average is about 48 or 
50 deg. Snow lies on the ground from three to four months, 
and the use of sleighs, during that period, is general. The 
spring is rapid ; and the summer and fall are generally pleasant. 

Agriculture is the chief business of the state, and is well 
conducted. The principal products are beef, pork, mutton, 
poultry, wheat, com, and other grain ; butter, cheese, flax, 
hemp, hops, vegetables, apples, pears, &c. 

The minerals qvioted are, ochres, isinglass, crystals, sul- 
phur, freestone, lead, black lead, and copper ; but the most 
valuable is iron, which is found in many places, and is wrought 
in considerable quantities. 

Popnlat'ion. — The population of this state, in 1817, amount- 
ed to 296,4)50, being abote 80 to the square mile. Although 
this appears but a thin population, yet it is to be observed that 
a great part of the state is covered by mountains, which are in- 
capable of cultivation. The sea coast, valleys, and fertile 
spots, are said to be thickly settled ; and these places have 
kept pace in improvement with the other New England states. 

Mamwrs, Sfc. — The inhabitants are represented as hardy, 
robust, and active. They are in general well educated ; and 
the population is not mixed with negroes or foreigners from 
the diiferent states of Europe. 

Education. — In the township of Hanover, in the western 
part of this state, is Dartmouth college, situated on a beautiful 
plain, about half a mile east of Connecticut river. It was 
named after the right honourable William earl of Dartmouth, 
who was one of its principal benefactors. It was founded by 
Dr. Eleazer Wheelock in 1769. It is supported by a grant of 
80,000 acres of land. It has, in the four classes, about 130 
students, under the direction of a president, two professors, 
and two tutors. It has twelve trustees, who are a body cor- 
porate, invested with the powers necessary tor such a body. 



UNITED STATES. 95 

The library is elegant, containing a large collection of the most 
valuable books. Its apparatus consists of a competent number 
of useful instruments^ for making mathematical and philoso- 
phical experiments. There are three buildings for the use of 
the students ; one of which was erected in 1786, and is not yet 
finished. It is 150 feet in length, and 50 in breadth, three 
stones high, and handsomely built. It has a broad passage 
running thi'ough its centre from end to end, intersected by 
three others. In front is a large green, encircled with a num- 
ber of handsome houses. Such is the salubrity of the air, that 
no instance of mortality has happened among the students 
since the first establishment of the college. 

At Exeter there is a flourishing academy, and at Portsmouth 
a grammar-school. All the towns are bound by law to sup- 
port schools. 

Chief Toivns. — Portsmouth is much the largest town in this 
state. It stands on the south-east side of Piscataqua river, 
about two miles from the sea, and. contains about 6000 inha- 
bitants. The town is handsomely built and pleasantly situated. 
Its public buildings are a court-house, two churches for con- 
gregationalists, one for episcopalians, and one other house for 
public worship. Its harbour is one of the finest on the conti- 
nent, having a sufficient depth of water for vessels of any bur- 
then. It is defended against storms by the adjacent land in 
such a manner, as that ships may securely ride there in any 
season of the year. Besides, the harbour is so well fortified by 
nature, that very little art will be necessary to render it im- 
pregnable. Its vicinity to the sea renders it very convenient 
for naval trade. A light-house, with a single light, stands at 
the entrance of the harbour. 

Exeter is a pretty town, fifteen miles south-westerly from 
Portsmouth, on the south side of Exeter river. It has a har- 
bour of eight and a half feet water, and was formerly famous 
for ship-building. Dover Neck, which makes a part of the 
town of Dover, is situated between two branches of Piscataqua 
river, and is a fine, dry, and healthy situation ; so high as to 
command die neighbouring shores, and afford a very extensive 
and delightful prospect. 



96 VIEW OF THE 

Concord is the seat of government, and contains 2050 inha- 
bitants. Dover contains 2062; Amherst, 2150; Hanover, 
1920; Keene, 1645; Charleston, 1634; Durham, 1128; 
and there are three others, containing from 500 to 1000. 

Small villages and farm houses are numerous, and the coun- 
try is pretty well supplied with good roads, and some elegant 
bridges, of which the chief is across the Piscataqua, seven miles 
above Portsmouth. It is 2600 feet long, and cost 68,000 
dollars. 

Trade and Resources.^— By an act of congress, which passed 
in 1798, in NeVv Hampshire, 3,749,061 acres of land were va- 
lued at 19,028,108 dollars. In 1814 and 1815, the value of 
houses and lands, as revised by the assessors, was 38,745,974 
dollars, which is nearly at the rate of nine dollars per acre. 

The net revenue of New Hampshire, in 1815, was 92,816 
dollars. The registered tonnage employed in foreign trade 
amounted to 24,532, and the enrolled coasting trade to 205y. 

The country people generally manufacture their own cloth- 
ing, and make considerable quantities of tow cloth for exporta- 
tion The other manufactures are ashes, niaple-sugar, bricks, 
pottery, and iron ware. 

A great part of the surplus produce of this state is carried 
to Boston, which prevents it from making a great figure in the 
scale of exports-; the amount, in 1805, was 608,408 dollars, 
but it seldom exceeds half a million. All the export trade 
centres at Portsmouth. 

Religion. — The churches in New Hampshire are principally 
for congregationalists ; some for presbyterians and baptists, 
and one for episcopahans. Ministers contract with their pa- 
rishes for their support. No parish is obliged to have a minis- 
ter ; but if they make a contract with one, they are obliged by 
law to fulfil it. Liberty is ever given to any individual of a 
parish to change their denomination ; and in that case they are 
liberated iVom their part of the parish contract. 

Governtnoit. — The government is founded upon a bill of 
rights, declaring that all men are born equally free and inde- 
pendent ; and that all government originates from the people : 
that every man has a right to worship God according to the 



UNITED STATES. 97 

dictates of his conscience : that all elections ought to be free ; 
and that every inhabitant of the state, having the proper qua- 
lifications, has an equal right to elect, and be elected, into 
office : that there shall be no hereditary rights, and that the 
press shall be free. 

The exercise of the government is vested in a legislature, 
consisting of a senate and house of representatives ; a governor 
and council to execute the laws; and a judiciary to promote 
justice between man and man. The senate consists of thirteen 
members, chosen annually by the people; each member must 
be possessed of q. freehold estate of 200/. The representatives 
are apportioned according to the populatiop, every town which 
has 150 i*ateable polls being entitled to one representative; 
having 450, they are entitled to two. They are also elected 
annually, and must be possessed of a freehold of 100/. The 
governor is in like manner elected annually, and must be pos- 
sessed of a freehold of 500/. There are five counsellers, who 
are chosen annually, who must be possessed of freeholds of 300/. 

The following extract from the constitution ought to be ge- 
nerally known. 

' Knowledge and learning, generally diffused through a 
community, being essential to the preservation of a free go- 
vernment ; and spreading the opportunities and advantages of 
education through the various parts of the country, being 
highly conducive to promote this end ; it shall be the duty of 
the legislators and magistrates, in all future periods of this go- 
vernment, to cherish the interest of literature and the sciences, 
and all seminaries and public .schools, to encourage private 
and public institutions, rewards and immunities for the pro- 
motion of agriculture, arts, sciences, commerce, trade, manu- 
factures, and natural history of the country ; to countenance 
and inculcate the principles of humanity and general benevo- 
lence, public and private charity, industry and economy, ho- 
nesty and punctuality, sincerity, sobriety, and all social affec- 
tions and generous sentiments, among the people.' 

Historij. — The first discovery made by the Engli.sh of any 
part of New Hampshire, was in 1614, by captain John Smith, 
wlio ranged the slioi-e from Penobscot to cape Cod ; and in thi.'^ 
5 N 



98 VIEW OF THE 

route discovered the river Piscataqua. On his return to Eng-- 
land, he published a descrijDtion of the country, with a map of; 
the coast, which he presented to prince Charles, who gave it 
the name oi' Nczv England. 

In 1(^21, captain John Mason obtained from the council of 
Plymouth, a grant of all the land from the river Naumkeag 
(new Salem) round tape Ann, to the river Merrimak, up each 
of those rivers, and from a line connecting the furthest sources \ 
of them inclusively, with all islands within three miles of the- 
coast. This district was called Mariana. The next year, 
another grant was made to Sk Ferdinando Gorges and Mason 
jointly, of all the lands between the Merrimak and Sagadahok, 
extending back to the great lakes of Canada. This grant, 
which includes a part of the other, was called Laconia. 

Under the authority of this grant, in 16523, a settlement was 
made at Little harbour, near the mouth of the Piscataqua. 

In 16.*29, some planters from Massachusetts bay, wishing to 
form a settlement in the neighbourhood of Piscataqua, procured 
a general meeting of the Indians, at Squamscot falls, where, 
with the universal consent of their subjects, they purchased of 
the Indian chiefs, for a valuable consideration, a tract of land 
comprehended between the rivers Piscataqua and Mei-rimak, 
and a line connecting these rivers, drawn at the distance of 
about 30 miles from the sea coast. The same year, Mason 
procured a new patent, under the common seal of the council 
of Plymouth, of the above-mentioned Indian purchase. 

In 1G35, the Plymouth company resigned their charter to 
the king ; but this resignation did not materially affect the 
patentees under tliem, as the several grants to companies and 
individuals were mostly confirmed, at some subsequent period, 
by charters from the crown. 

In April, 16-^1, the principal settler.^ of Piscataqua, by a 
formal instrument, resigned the jurisdiction of the whole to 
Massachusetts, on condition that the inliabitants should enjoy 
the same liberties v.ith their own people, and have a court of 
justice erected among them. The property of the whole patent 
of Portsmoutli, and of one-third of that of Dover, and of all 
the improved lands therein, was reserved to the lords and gen« 



UNITED STATES. 99 

tlemen proprietors and their heirs for ever. These reservations 
were acceded to on the part oi' Massachusetts ; and what is 
extraordinary, and manifested the fondness of the government 
for retaining them under their jurisdiction, a law of Massachu- 
setts, declaring that none but church members should sit ni the 
general court, was dispensed with in their favour. While they 
were united with Massachusetts, they were governed by the 
general laws of the colony, and the conditions of the union 
were strictly observed. During this period, however, they had 
to struggle with many difficulties. One while involved, toge- 
ther with Massachusetts, in a bloody war with the Indians; 
and repeatedly disturbed with the warm disputes occasioned 
by the ineffectual efforts of Mason's heirs to recover the pro- 
perty of their ancestor. These disputes continued until 1679, 
when Mason's claim, though never established in law, was pa- 
tronised by the crown, and New Hampshire was erected into a 
separate government. 

In the year 1691, Mason's heirs sold their title to their lands 
in New England to Samuel Allan, of London, for 2750Z. ; and 
in 1692, colonel Samuel Allan was commissioned governor of 
New Hampshire. Eight years after, he came over to America 
to prosecute his claim, but died before the affair v.'as concluded. 

The inhabitants about this time suffered extremely from the 
cruel barbarity of the Indians : Exeter, Dover, and the fron- 
tier settlements, were frequently surprised in the night; the 
houses plundered and burnt ; the men killed and scalped ; and 
the women and children either inhumanly murdered, or led 
captives into the wilderness. The first settlers in other parts 
of New England were also, about this time, harassed by the 
Indians ; and it would require volumes to enumerate their 
particular sufferings. 

Although New Hampshire was under the jurisdiction of the 
governor of Massachusetts, yet they had a separate legislature. 
They ever bore a proportionable share of the expences and le- 
vies in all enterprises, expeditions, and military exertions, whe- 
ther planned by the colony or the ci'own. In every stage of 
the opposition that was made to the encroachments of the Bri- 
tish [)arliament, the people, who ever had a high sense of li- 



100 VIEW OF THE 

berty, cheerfully bore their part. At the commencement of 
hostilities, indeed, while their council was appointed by royal 
mandamus, their ardour was checked by these crown officers. 
But when freed from this restraint, they flew eagerly to the 
American standard when the voice of their country declared 
for war ; and their troops had a large shaie of the hazard and 
fatigue, as well as of the glory, of accomplishing the late 
revolution. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 

Situation and E.rtent. ]\/[ASSACHUSETTS is situated be- 

tween 41 dcg. 13 min. and 42 deg. 
52 min. north lat., and 3 deg. 28 min. and 7 deg. east long. 
Its extreme length is 190 miles, and its greatest breadth 100. 
Its square contents is 8500 miles, being about 5,440,000 acres. 
Bounded northwardly by New Hampshire and Vermont ; west 
by New York; southwardly by Connecticut, Rhode island, 
and the Atlantic ; east by the Atlantic and Massachusetts bay. 
Natural Geograplty. — The face of the country is strikingly 
diversified. The coast on the east side is indented with bays, 
and studded with islands, which afford ample harbours for 
shipping, and support a hardy race of sailors and fishermen. 
Toward the middle the .surface is agreeably uneven, and the 
west swells out into mountains, some of which are of consider- 
able height. The state is well watered, abounding in rivers 
and small lakes. 

Merriniak river, before described, runs through the north- 
eastern part of the state. Charles river rises from five or six 
sources, oh the south-east side of Hopkinton and Holliston 
ridge. The main stream runs north-east, then north and 
north-eastwardly, round this ridge, until, in Natick township. 



UNITED STATES. 101 

it mindes with Mother brook, which is a considerable branch 
of Charles river. The river, thus formed, runs westward, 
tumbling in falls across the south-west end of Brooklyn hills, 
and passing near Framingham pond, runs north-east to Cam- 
bridge ; hence winding round in a sinuous course, falls into 
Boston harbour. Taunton river rises in the Blue mountains, 
which lie back of Milton and Braintree, and forms the princi- 
pal drain of the country lying east of these mountains : the river 
runs nearly a straight course south-west, under the foot of the 
mountains, to Tiverton on Narragansett bay. Concord river 
is formed by three branches, one issuing from Framingham 
pond, and the other two from the mountains about Marlbo- 
rough. These streams united run north, and fall into the 
Merrimak river, a little below Pantucket falls. 

Mystic and Medford rivers run from north to south into 
Boston harbour. Ipswich river, rising in Wilmington in Mid- 
dlesex county, runs east and then north-east into the Atlantic 
at Ipswich. Westfield river, from the north-west, empties into 
Connecticut river at Springfield. A little above, the Chicabee 
from the north-east empties into the same river. Deei-field 
river rises in Vermont, and running southwardly through Wil- 
mington, Charlemont, and between Shelburne and Conway, 
enters and passes through a large tract of the finest meadow in 
the world. In these mountains it receives Green river from 
the mountains, which is about four rods wide : loence they pass 
on together, in a broad smooth stream, about three miles into 
Connecticut river. 

The only capes of note on the coast of Massachusetts are, 
cape Ann on the north side of Boston bay, and cape Cod on 
the soutli. The latter is the terminating hook of a promon- 
tory, which extends far into the sea, and is remarkable for 
having been the first land which was made by the first settlers 
of Plymouth on the American roast in 1620. In the barb of 
the hook, which is made by the cape, is cape Cod harbour. 
This promontory circumscribes Barnstable bay, and forms 
Barnstable county. This county is almost an island. The 
isthmus which connects it to the continent is between Sandwich 
bay on the north, and Buzzards bay on the south. The dis- 



102 VIEW OF THE 

tance between them is but six or seven miles. Herring brook 
almost crosses this neck or isthmus, so that a canal of about one 
mile only would insulate the county, and save several hundred 
miles dangerous navigation in passing from Newport to Boston, 
and be otherwise of immense advantage to trade. Such a canal 
has been talked of for more than an hundred years past. The 
eastern coast of this promontory is subject to continual changes. 
Large tracts of sand bank, in the course of 40 or 50 years, by 
the constant accumulation of sand and mud, occasioned by the 
coil and recoil of the tides, have been transformed into solid 
marsh land. The sand banks extend 200 miles into the sea, 
forming dangerous shoals. 

The soil of Massachusetts is various. Towards the sea coast 
it is sandy and barren ; in the interior it improves ; and toward 
the western parts, where the country is hilly, it is best adapted 
for grazing. Wheat crops are not abundant, but it produces 
Indian corn, rye, barley, and oats. Vegetables and fruit come 
to great perfection, and are of much value in the state. Flax 
and some hemp are cultivated ; and hops grow luxuriantly. 

The climate is very much assin)ilated to that of Rhode island. 
Toward the west, the winters are more cold and severe than on 
the coast, but the weather is more steady, and the whole is 
healthy. 

The principal mineral is iron, of which the state produces a 
great quantity. A copper mine has been discovered; and 
there are considerable quantities of clays and ochres, and slate, 
marble, and limestone. 

Population. — In 1817, the population of this state was esti- 
mated at 564,392, which yields above QQ persons to a square mile. 

Manners, &fc. — The inhabitants of Massachusetts are de- 
scribed as being extremely cleanly, industrious, and contented. 
The females, in particular, appear to great advantage, having 
a glow of health, an air of cheerfulness, and a neatness of as- 
pect, not to he surpassed. Though much attached to subjects 
of religion, they are in general liberal, and cultivate the bene- 
volent affections. 

Chief' Toxcns. — Boston is an irregular built town, situated 
on a peninsula whose surface is broken by small hills; and, 



UNITED STATES. 108 

except wliere the isthmus appears in sight, seems completely 
environed by a beautiful river. It cannot boast of much uni- 
formity and elegance ; but, with respect to situation, it is ex- 
tremely beautiful. 

Boston bears considerable resemblance to an old city in 
England. It is two miles in length, but of unequal breadth, 
being 726 yards at the broadest part. It contains about 4000 
dwelling-houses, many of which are built of wood, besides a 
cfreat number of store-houses. , 

From an elevated part of the town, the spectator enjoys a 
succession of the most beautiful views that imagination can 
conceive. Around him, as far as the eye can reach, are to be 
seen towns, villages, country seats, rich farms, and pleasure 
grounds, seated upon the summits of small hills, hanging on 
the brows of gentle slopes, or reclining in the laps of spacious 
valleys, Ayhose shores are watered by a beautiful river, across 
which are thrown several bridges and causeways. 

That portion of the town called West Boston contains most 
of the dwelling houses of the gentry and principal merchants. 
A number of these elegant buildings of red brick have within 
these few years been erected ; and wide spacious streets, con- 
sisting of handsome private houses of similar construction, are 
yet forming throughout that end of the town. These streets 
are mostly in the vicinity of Beacon hill, a rising ground of 
considerable elevation, situate behind the new statf^-house. On 
this hill a monumental pillar is erected, with a gik eagle at the 
top, bearing the arms of the United States. On the pedestal 
of the column are inscriptions commemorating the most re- 
markable events of the revolution. 

The new state-house is, perhaps, more indebted to its situa- 
tion for the handsome appearance it exhibits, than to any merit 
of the building itself. It is built upon })art of the I'ising ground 
upon which Beacon hill is situated, and fronts the park, an 
extensive common planted with a double row of trees alono> the 
borders. The lower part of the building is constructed in a 
plain and simple style of architecture, with red brick, and sur- 
mounted by a large circular dome of the same materials, co- 
loured yellow. The whole has a neat and ornamental appear- 



104 VIEW OF THE 

ance ; but if stone had been substituted for brick, it would 
then have been a structure worthy of admiration, and honour- 
able to the people of Boston. 

The park was formerly a large common, but has recently 
been enclosed, and the borders planted with trees. On the 
east side there has been for many years a mall, or walk, plant- 
ed with a double row of large tress, somewhat resembling that 
in St. James"'s pai'k, but scarcely half its lengtA. It affords 
the inhabitants an excellent promenade in fine weather. At 
the bottom of the park is a branch of the harbour ; and along 
the shore, to the westward, are several extensive rope-walks 
built upon piers. At hioh water, boats and barges can be ad- 
mitted between the walks, wliich are all roofed in, and have 
large brick warehouses at the eastern end. Considerable quan- 
tities of excellent cordage are manufactured at these walks, 
and form an article of exportation to the other states. In the 
street next the mall, at the upper end of the park, there is a 
stand of hackney coaches, superior in every respect to vehicles 
of that description in London. 

The other part of Boston, which may with propriety be 
called the Old Town, is the seat of trade and commerce, and 
contains numerous streets, lanes, and alleys, crowded with 
stores, shops, warehouses, wharfs, and piers ; taverns, coffee- 
houses, and porter-houses ; insurance offices, banks, and state 
buildings ; churches, chapels, and meetings. 

Of late years, considerable improvements have taken place 
in East Boston. Towards the harbour, an extensive range of 
lofty wai'ehouses have been erected upon India wharf: they 
are built of red brick, with much neatness and uniformity. 
Offices for the merchants are below, and the upper part of the 
])uilding is appropriated' to the reception of goods. A short 
distance from these warehouses to the northward, is Long 
wharf, or Boston pier, which extends from the bottom of State- 
street, upwards of 1750 feet into the harbour. Its breadth is 
above 100 feet. On the north side of this immense wharf is a 
range of large warehouses,extending the whole lengtli of the pier. 

Along the water side there is a great number of other piers, 
"hich extend a considerable wav into the harbour; these form 



UNITED STATES. 105 

as many open clocks, or slips, which admit vessels of almost 
every size and draught of water up to the very doors of the 
houses. Viewing this sight from an eminence, it has a singu- 
lar and beautiful effect ; the crowded masts and rigging of the 
vessels appear in the midst of the streets, and the colours of all 
nations are seen flying over the tops of the houses. 

Boston is well paved, and has excellent foot-paths of flag 
stones. The streets, which in the old town are generally nar- 
row and irregularly laid out, are for the most part clean and 
in good order. The markets are situated near each other, 
close to the water side ; and are supplied with every descrip- 
tion of provisions in the greatest plenty, and at a moderate 
price. But tliey are crowded and confined by the surrounding 
buildings, and the narrow lanes in the vicinity. This, together 
with the number of shabby shops and ale-houses in the neigli- 
bourhood, gives to this part of the town an unseemly appear- 
ance, which is still further increased by the litter and confusion 
unavoidable in a market place. 

The bridge connecting Boston and Charlestown is a sur- 
prising work. It is of wood, with a draw for the admission of 
vessels, and is 3483 feet in length, and 40 feet wide. On the 
same river, and not above two miles further up the country, is 
another bridge of this nature, 1503 feet long, and 42 in width. 
The principal manufactures. of Boston are, sail-cloth, cordage, 
hats, wool and cotton cards, pot and pearl ashes, paper hang- 
ings, plate and connnon glass, loaf sugar, tobacco, chocolate, 
and an immense quantity of playing cards, on which they coun- 
terfeit the English figures with great exactness. Above forty 
distilleries are employed in making that detestable spirit called 
Yankee rum ! which is used in preference to that agreeable 
and nutritious beverage, malt liquor, two breweries for which 
can barely be supported by this large town and its populous 
ricinity. 

The population of Boston, according to the census of 1800, 
was 24,937; about three years after, it amounted to 28,000; 
and very lately was computed to be up-vards of 35,000. The 
majority of the people are congregationaHsts ; the remainder 
sonsist of episcopalians, baptists, quaktrs, universalists, Roman 

O 



106 VIEW OF THE 

catholics, and Sandemanians. They have twenty places of 
worship, of which nine belong to the congregationalists, and 
/bur to the episcopalians, 

' Sundays are observed,' says a late traveller, ' with the 
strictest decorum ; the town appears as if completely deserted ; 
and scarcely a person is seen walking the streets, except in go- 
ing to or coming from a place of worship. This strict observ- 
ance of religious duties disposes a stranger to judge favourably 
of the moral character of the people ; nor has he any reason to 
alter his opinion, until he hears of so many unfortunate females 
in the cities."" 

The inhabitants are distinguished for their domestic habits, 
regularity of living, integrity in their deahngs, hospitality to 
strangers, strict piety and devotion, and respect for the moral 
and social virtues ; upon which depend the happiness and well 
being of a community. 

Several daily and weekly newspapers, and a few magazines 
and reviews, are published in Boston. Like those of other 
towns, the newspapers are attached to the principles of the two 
parties which at present divide the people ; and in their poli- 
tical animadversions, they are by no means tender of rhe cha- 
racter of their opponents. The fanatical spirit of this city 
seems giadually to subside ; and Mr. Burke observes, after 
narrating the witchcraft delusion, .169S, in which so many in- 
nocent people perished by tiie bigotry of two clergymen called 
Encrease and Cotton Mather, ' that the people there are now 
grown somewhat like the rest of mankind in their manners, 
and have much abated of their persecuting spirit.' This city 
is even already ranked by some among the most pleasing and 
sociable iii the United States. 

The amount of tonnage owned by the port of Boston in 
1810 was 149,121. The number of vessels that enter and 
clear out annually is immense, carrying on a trade to Europe, 
the East and West Indies, and China, besides a very extensive 
coasting trade. The exports annually from this port probably 
amount to upwards of 8^000,000 dollars. There are in Bos- 
ton three incorporated banks, besides a branch of the United 
States' bank, whose joint capitals amount to upwards of 



UNITED STATES. 107 

3,000,000 dollars ; and there are three or four insurance of- 
fices, with capitals of 3 or 400,000 dollars each. 

There are a number of pubhc societies in Boston, among 
which may be mentioned the American Academy of Arts and 
Sciences, Massachusetts Historical Society, Boston Library 
Society, Agricultural Society, Mechanic Society, Marine So- 
ciety, Charitable Fire Society, Humane Society, Medical So- 
ciety, Dispensary, and the Female Asylum. Public education 
is on an excellent footing; there are eight or nine public 
schools, supported at the expence of the town, which are ac- 
cessible to all the members of the community, free of expence ; 
they are managed by a committee of twenty-one gentlemen, 
chosen annually, and are under good regulations. Besides 
these, there are a number of private seminaries, at which all 
the various branches of education are taught ; and, upon the 
whole, Boston may challenge a competition on this branch with 
any city in Europe, Edinburgh in Scotland perhaps excepted. 

Solera is, next to Boston, the largest town in Massachusetts, 
and one of the earliest settled in the state. It is situated on a 
peninsula formed by two branches of the sea, called North and 
South rivers, and consists of about 1500 houses, and contained, 
in 1800, 9547 inhabitants. The houses are built partly of 
wood, and partly of brick ; and many of them are uncommonly 
elegant. The principal public buildings are a court-house, 
five congregational churches, and, one each for quakers and 
episcopalians, Salem carries on a very extensive shipping 
trade, more business being done here in that line than in any 
town in the New England states, Boston excepted. There is 
a ship-yard in Salem, and a considerable manufactory of sail- 
cloth. A bank has been long established. The inhabitants 
are said to be industrious and frugal, and the appearance of 
the town indicates a considerable accumulation of wealth. Sa- 
lem is remarkable as being the residence of Mr. Gray, reputed 
the greatest ship-owner in America, having a vast number of 
square-rigged vessels, many of which are in the India trade. 

Cambridge is handsomely situated, and contains a univer- 
sity, which is reputed the best literary institution in the United 
States. It was established in 1638, and has now four large 



108 VIEW OF THE 

buildings, with accommodations sufficient to contain upwards 
of 200 students, who attend it annually, and are instructed in 
all the various branches of human knowledge. The library is 
very extensive, and the philosophical apparatus is said to be 
the most elegant and complete of any in America. Five pro- 
fessors and four tutors discharge the duties of the university, 
which is generally well attended by students. The village of 
Cambridge contains about 1000 inhabitants. The houses are 
mostly built of wood. The public buildings are, besides the 
university, a court-house, an episcopal and a congregational 
church. 

Worcester is a pretty place, and said to be one of the largest 
inland towns in the state. It is the capital of a county to 
vvhich it gives the name, and is situated in a pleasant valley, 
mostly on one street, which is broad and handsome. The 
houses are generally of wood, painted white; and are in num- 
ber about 400. The inhabitants amount to about 2500. The 
jiublic buildings are, a court-house, jail, and two congregational 
churches. They have a pretty extensive inland trade at this 
place, and the printing business has been long established here 
by a Mr. Thomas, who is reputed to be the oldest printer in 
America. It is proposed to open an inland navigation between 
this place and Providence, distant about 40 miles ; and if it 
should take place, it is supposed that it will be attended with 
fjreat advantage. 

Sprhigjield is a hand.some and thriving town, situated on 
tlie east side of the Connecticut river, 97 miles from Boston, 
It contains about 1500 inhabitants, who carry on a considerable 
inland trade, and have established a respectable manufactory 
of fire-arms. The public buildings are a court-house and a 
congregational church. 

Brookfiekl is a beautiful town, situated on the Quebang 
river, and in a rich, fertile country, Avhich also contains great 
(juantities of iron ore. Of the remainder of the towns, the 
most important is Marblehead, a sea-port, containing upwards 
of 5000 inhabitants. Newburyport is a handsome sea-port, 
containing nearly 6000 inhabitants, and has several manufac- 
tories, and a large shipping trade. Ipswich contains 3000 



UNITED STATES. 109 

inhabitants ; and Concord, a flourishing town on Concord river, 
is remarkable as being the place wliere the provincial congress 
held their deliberations during the war. Taunton, North- 
ampton, Stockbridge, Plttsficld, and Barnstaple, are all towns 
of considerable note. The state is intersected in every direc- 
tion with good roads, and the bridges are numerous and very 

important. 

Trade and Resot(,rces.—The amount of the internal revenues 
rf Massachusetts in 1815 was 528,455 dollars, and the num- 
ber of carriages taxed was 14,184. The value of lands and 
houses, as stated by the assessors, amounted to 143,765,560 
dollars, which made the average value of land equal to 18 dol- 
lars per acre. 

By the returns of the same year, the gross amount of duties 
on merchandise was 6,168,448 dollars. The registered ton- 
nage employed in foreign trade was 199,659, and the enrolled 
tonnage employed in the coasting trade was 2995, besides ves- 
sels under 20 tons. 

The greater part of the manufactures have already been 

'enumerated in the account of Boston ; but it may be noticed, 

jthat, in the interior, there is a vast variety of domestic rruum- 

\factures; and several others upon a larger scale, particularly 

of woollen and cotton. 

The exports of the state are, provisions, timber, ashes, flax- 
Iseed, bees' wax, fish, oil, saddlery, cabinet work, boots and 
I shoes, nails, tow-cloth, iron utensils, glass, spirits, &c. The 
imix)rts are, British manufactures, tea, wine, silks, spirits, 
coff^ee, cotton, &c. Commerce is pursued with an ardent spirit 
in the state ; and it is said that Massachusetts owns more ship- 
Iping than any other state in the Union. The state has very 
I extensive fisheries, the product of which is annually of great 
[value. 

I ReUgim.—llic legislature of this state are empowered to 
' require of the several towns to provide, at their own cxpence, 
for the Derformance of public worship, and to require the at- 
I tendance of the subject on the same. But these affairs are 
' managed by each religious sect in its own way, who are not 
I suffered to interfere with the civil rights of their neighbours, 



110 VIEW OF THE 

so that the sting is drawn out of the tail of the scorpion of re- 
ligious discord. No sect is elevated above another; and all 
have reason to be thankful for the blessings they enjoy, in the 
protection of equal laws. The great body of the churches are 
established on the congregational plan. 

Education, S^c. — Dr More says, ' According to the laws of ' 
this commonwealth, every town having 50 householders or up- 
wards, is to be provided with one or more schoolmasters, to \ 
teach children and youth to read and write, and instruct them \ 
in the English language, arithmetic, orthography, and decent 
behaviour ; and where any town has 200 families, there is also . 
to be a grammar school set up therein, and some discreet per- 
son, well instructed in the Latin, Greek, and English languages, 
procured to keep the same, and be suitably paid by the inha- 
bitants. The penalty for neglect of schools, in towns of 50 
famiUes, is 10/. ; those of 100 families, 20/. ; and of 150, 30/. 
Besides the college of Cambridge before mentioned, there are ,' 
several respectably endowed academies. Those established at l 
Newbury, Andover, Leicester, and Hingham, deserve particu- ' 
lar mention. 

Government. — The commonwealth of Massachusetts is di- 
vided into 14 counties, and subdivided into 355 townships. 
The whole country is divided into districts, of about six miles 
square each, and these are called towns, whether they be 
thickly settled or not. The arrangement of these towns is 
somewhat assimilated to the parishes in Scotland, having each 
a separate jurisdiction within itself, which regulates the affairs 
of religion and of education, and makes provision for the poor. 
They are also of great importanqe in the elections, which are 
conducted throughout the whole state in one day, the people 
voting in their respective towns, which has a tendency to pre- 
vent all bustle and confusion. 

The state government is vested in a senate and house of re- 
presentatives, styled the General Covu't; a governor, lieute- 
nant-governor, and council. The senators are 40 in number, 
and are elected annually in districts ; and the voters must be 
possessed of a freehold estate of the value of 3/. or any estate 
of the value of 60/. The representatives are elected annually, 



UNITED STATES. Ill 

m townships: evei'y corporate town containing 150 rateable 
polls elects one, those containing 375 elect two, those contain- 
ing 600 elect three, and so on, making 225 the number for 
every additional representative. The electors must be pos- 
sessed of the same property as for senators The governor is 
styled his earellenci/, and must be possessed of a freehold of 
1000^. He is elected annually by those qualified to vote for 
senators and representatives. The lieutenant-governor is styled 
his • 7io7iou?; and must have the same qualifications, and be 
elected in the same manner as the governor. The council 
consists of nine persons, chosen from the senators by joint bal- 
lot of the senators and. representatives. 

Islands. — Among the islands that border upon the extensive 
coast of this state are, Kappawak, Martha's Vineyard, and 
Nantucket. Kappawak, now Duke's county, and the neigh- 
bouring isles, were discovered as early as 1602, by Bartholo- 
mew Gosnold. In honour of queen Elizabeth, he called a 
cluster of small islands near the cape, Elizabeth isles. To an- 
other neiahbourino' island he gave the name of Martha's Vine- 
yard. Duke's county is 20 miles in length, and about four in 
breadth. It contains seven parishes. Edgarton, which in- 
cludes the island Chabaquidick, is the shire town. This little 
island is about half a mile from the harbour, and renders it 
very secure. This county is full of inhabitants, who, like their 
neighbours at Nantucket, subsist principally by fishing. They 
send three representatives to the general assembly, and one 
senator. 

Nantucket lies south of cape Cod, about 30 miles from the 
coast, and is about 15 miles in length, and two or three in 
breadth. Before the revolutionary war, this small island had 
65 ships, of 4875 tons, annually employed in the northern, 
and 85 ships of 10,200 tons, in the southern fishery. From 
1787 to 1789, it had only 18 ships, of 1350 tons, in the north- 
ern, and 18 ships, of 2700 tons, in the southern fisheiy. For 
many years past, this fishery has been carried on from this 
island, and from New Bedford, a large commercial and flou- 
rishing town on the coast, in its neighbourhood, and has em- 



llg VIEW OF THE 

ployed from 15,000 to 18,000 tons of shipping, principally in 
the Southern seas. 

H'lstwy. — In 1628, the first regular settlement was made in 
the Massachusetts near Salem by Mr. Endicot. Two years 
after this, 1500 people arrived from England, amongst whom 
were several persons of distinction. These were followed by 
several others, amongst which were Messrs. Cotton, Hooker, 
and Stone, three of the most famous pillars of the church. 
Mr. Cotton settled at Boston, and the other two at Cambridge. 
Mr. Hooker and 100 others removed in 1636, and settled at 
Hartford, on Connecticut river. 

' In 1636,'' says Mr. Morse, ' Mrs. Hutchinson, a very ex- 
traordinary woman, who came to New England with Mr. Cot- 
ton, made great disturbances in the churches. Two capital 
errors with which she was charged were, " That the Holy 
Ghost dwells personally in a justified person ; and that nothing 
of sanctification can help to evidence to believers their justifi- 
cation.'^ Disputes ran high about the covenant of works, and 
the covenant of grace, and involved both the civil and religious 
affairs of the colony in great confusion. The final result was, 
a synod was appointed to be held at Cambridge, in August, 
1637, where were present both ministers and messengers of 
churches and magistrates, who, after three weeks' disputing, 
condenmed, as erroneous, above eighty points or opinions, said 
to have been maintained by sonte or other in the country. 
The result was signed by all the members but Mr. Cotton. 
In consequence of this, Mrs. Hutchinson and some of her 
principal followers were sentenced to banishment. She, with 
her husband and family, shortly after removed to Aquidnick, 
(Rhode island) where, in 164^2, Mr. Hutchinson died. She 
being dissatisfied with the people or place, removed to the 
Dutch country, beyond New Haven ; and the next year, she 
and all her family, being sixteen souls, were killed by the In- 
dians, except one daughter, who was carried into captivity.' 

The year 1637 was dist^guished by the Pequot wars, in 
which were slain five or -six hundred Indians, and the tribe 
almost wholly destroyed. This struck such terror into thr 



UNITED STATES. 113 

Indians, that for forty years succeeding, they never openly 
commenced hostilities with the English. 

In 1640, the motives for emigration to New England ceased, 
by a change in the affairs of England. The population of this 
colony then amounted to 21,000; and the present inhabitants 
are mostly the offspring of these original settlei's. 

The religious prejudices of the colonists were the;source of 
violent disputes and great cruelties. In 1648, they were in- 
fected with the fear of witchcraft; and Margaret Jones, of 
Charleston, Avas accused of having so malignant a quality, as 
to cause vomiting, deafness, and violent pains by her touch. 
She was accordingly tried, condemned, and executed. The 
scrupulousness of the people appears to have arisen to its 
height in 1649, and was indeed ridiculous. The custom of 
wearing long hair, ' after the manner of ruffians and barbarous 
Indians,' as they termed it, was deemed contrary to the word 
of God, ' which says it is a shame for a man to wear long hair.' 
This expression of the apostle Paul induced this pious people 
to think this custom criminal in all ages and nations. In a 
clergyman it was peculiarly offensive, as they were required in 
an especial manner to go palentibus au7'ibus, with open ears. 
The use of tobacco was prohibited under a penalty ; and the 
smoke of it, in some manuscripts, was compared to the smoke 
of the bottomless pit. The sickness frequently produced by 
smoking tobacco was considered as a species of drunkenness, 
and hence what we now term smoking, was then often called 
' drinking tobacco ' At length, some of the clergy fell into the 
habit of smoking, and tobacco, by an act of government, * was 
set at liberty.' 

This was succeeded, 1656, by a persecution against the 
quakers; and though none were actually put to death by 
public execution, yet many were confined in prisons where 
they died in consequence of the rigour of the law. King 
Charles II. also, in a letter to the colony of Massachusetts, 
approved of their severity. The quakers were undoubtedly 
enthusiasts, as the following instances will testify. ' Thomas 
Newhouse went into the meeting-house at Boston with a couple 
of glass bottles, and broke them before the congregation, and 

P 



114. VIEW OF THE 

threatened, Thus mil the Lord break you in pieces. Another 
time M. Brewster came in with her face smeared as black as a 
coal. Deborah Wilson went through the streets of Salem 
naked as she was born.' But the quakers were used with the 
most unjustifiable severity, which, from exciting sympathy, in- 
creased their numbers. These unhappy disturbances conti- 
nued until the friends of the quakers in England interposed, 
and obtained an order from the king, September 9, 1661, re- 
quiring that a stop should be put to all capital or corporal 
punishments of his subjects called quakers. This order was 
prudently complied with, and the disturbances by degrees 
subsided. 

In 1692, the colony obtained, after many disputes with the 
mother country, a new charter, which was productive of much 
good, particularly in diminishing the power of the clergy. 
During the same year, the spirit of infatuation respecting 
witchcraft was again revived in New England, and raged with 
uncommon violence. Several hundreds were accused, many 
wei'e condemned, and some executed. Various have been the 
opinions respecting the delusion which occasioned this tragedy. 
Some pious people have believed there was something super- 
natural in it, and that it was not all the effect of fraud and 
imposture. Many are willing to suppose the accusers to have 
been under bodily disorders which affected their imaginations. 
It is very possible that the whole was a scene of fraud and im- 
posture, began by young girls, who at first thought of nothing 
more than exciting pity and indulgence, and continued by adult 
persons, who were afraid of being accused themselves. The 
one and the other, rather than confess their fraud, suffered the 
Jives of so many innocents to be taken away through the cre- 
dulity of judges and juries. At last, the witch-finders grew 
bold, and accused some of the judges of exercising infernal 
arts. The rich were now struck with alarm, and the persecu- 
tion ceased. 

From 1675, when Philip's war began, to 1713, five or six 
thousand of the youth of the country had perished by the 
enemy, or by distempers contracted in the service of their 
country. The colonies, which usually doubled their inhabit- 



UNITED STATES. 115 

ants in five and twenty years, had not at this time double the 
number which they had fifty years before. 

In 1721, the small-pox made great havock in Boston and 
the adjacent towns. Of 5889, who took it in Boston, 884 died. 
Inoculation was introduced upon this occasion, contrary, how- 
ever, to the minds of the inhabitants in general. All orders of 
men, in a greater or less degree, condemned a practice which is 
now universally approved, and to which thousands owe the 
preservation of their lives. 

In 1745, according to a proposal and plan of the governor 
of this colony, Louisburg was besieged and taken. The pos- 
session of this place appeared necessary for the security of the 
English fishery, and prevented an attack upon Nova Scotia, 
which the French had meditated and threatened. 

The reduction of Louisburg by a British colony surprised 
Great Britain and France, and occasioned both powers to form 
important plans for the next year. Great Britain had in view 
the reduction of Canada, and the extirpation of the French 
from the northern continent. France, the recovery of Louis- 
bui'g, the conquest of Nova Scotia, and the destruction of the 
English sea coast from Nova Scotia to Georgia. Great prepa- 
rations were accordingly made by both monarchs. A very 
formidable French fleet sailed for the American coast ; a Bri- 
tish squadron was long expected to oppose them, and to pro- 
tect the colonies ; but expected in vain. The colonies were in 
immediate and imminent danger. Fortunately for them, the 
French fleet was rendered unfit to accomplish their design, by 
a violent storm, which damaged most of the ships so much, 
that they were obhged to return to France, or retire to the 
West Indies to refit. 

After this, nothing material occurred in the colony until the 
general revolution, in which Massachusetts acquired a consi-, 
derable share of glory. 



116 VIEW OF THE 



DISTRICT OF MAINE. 

Situation and Extent, HTHIS district is bounded on the 

north-west by the high lands which 
separate the rivers which fall into the St. Lawrence, from those 
which fall into the Atlantic ocean ; on the east by the river St. 
Croix, and a line drawn due north from its source to the said 
high lands, which divides this territory from Nova Scotia; 
on the south-east by the Atlantic ocean ; and on the west by 
New Hampshire. This division is of great extent, being about 
250 miles long by about 192 broad, and contains 31,750 square 
miles. 

Natural Geography. — St. Croix is a short and inconsidera- 
ble river, forming the eastern boundary of the United States. 
It falls into Passamaquoday bay. Penobscot river rises in 
some ponds in the heart of the country, and passing through 
several small lakes, it tumbles for near two miles over falls, 
which effectually prevent any further marine navigation. To 
these falls, which are about 50 miles from the sea, this river is 
navigable for vessels of 100 tons. It empties into Penobscot 
bay. 

Kennebek river rises from a little pond in the high lands, 
in north lat. 45 deg. 20 min. Its oeneral course is from north 
to south. It is navigable for vessels of 100 tons to Hallowell, 
50 miles from Small point, at the mouth of the river. 

Sagadahok, which, properly speaking, is but the main west- 
ern branch of the Kennebek, rises in lat. 44 deg. 50 min. 
north-eastward of the White hills, in lake Umbagoog. Pea- 
body river and another branch fall into this main stream from 
the east side of the White hills. Its course is south about 26 
miles, then east-north-east 60, when it meets a second main 
stream from the north-east, 34 miles from its source. Hence 
the river runs into Merry Meeting bay ; from thence, with the 



UNITED STATES. 117 

waters of the Kennebek, Avhicli likewise fall Into this bay, with 
several other small streams, it passes off to the sea, 16 miles, 
by the name of Kennebek, or Sagadahok river. 

Saco river has two sources, which soon unite ; and the river, 
keeping in a genera) south-eastern course for 60 or 70 miles, 
passes between Pcpperillborough and Biddeford townships, 
into Saco bay, near Winter harbour. Marine navigation is 
stopped by Saco falls, seven or eight miles from the sea. At 
these falls, which are about 20 feet in height, are the greatest 
board-works in this part of the country. The river here is 
broken by small islands in such a manner as to afi'md a num- 
ber of fine saw-mill seats. Besides these are a number of 
smaller rivers. 

The sea coast is indented with innumerable bays. Those 
worth noticing are Penobscot bay, at the mouth of Penobscot 
river, which is long and capacious. Its east side is lined with 
a cluster of small islands. Casco bay is between cape Eliza- 
beth and cape Small Point. It is 25 miles wide, and about 14) 
in length. It is a most beautiful bay, interspersed with small 
islands, and forms the entrance into Sagadahok. It has a suf- 
ficient depth of water for vessels of any burden. ^Vells bay 
lies between cape Neddik and cape Porpoise. 

Agamemticus, a noted land-mark for sailors, is about eight 
miles from the sea, in lat. 43 deg. 16 min., and hes in the 
township of York, a few miles westward of Wells. 

The heat in summer is intense, and the cold in winter 
equally extreme. All fresh water lakes, ponds, and rivers, 
are usually passable on ice, from Christmas until the middle of 
March. The longest day is fifteen hours and sixteen minutes, 
and the shortest eight hours and forty-four minutes. The 
climate is very healthful. Many of the inhabitants live ninety 
years. 

On the high lands are oak in some places, but not plenty, 
maple, beech, and white birch. The white birch in this part 
of the country is unlike that which grows in other parts. It 
is a fine large tree, fit for many uses. Its bark, which is 
composed of a great number of thicknesses, is, when separated, 
smoother and softer than any paper. The clay lands produce 



118 VIEW OF THE 

fir. The timber of this tree is unfit for use, but it yields the 
balsam which is so much admired. 

Iron and bog-ore are found in many places, in great plenty, 
and works are erected to manufacture it into iron. There is a 
stone in Lebanon, which yields copperas and sulphur. 

Population. — The population of this district in 1817 amount- 
ed to 318,647, which is ten persons to a square mile. 

Manners^ ^~c. — The inhabitants are a hardy, robust race ; 
and being early taught the use of the musket, are expert 
marksmen, and form a very useful militia. 

Chief' Towns. — Portland is the most considerable town, and 
contains nearly 5000 inhabitants. It is situated on a penin- 
sula, and has an excellent and capacious harbour. Ship-build- 
ing and the fishery constitute the chief employment of the 
inhabitants. York is the second in importance, and is a place 
of considerable business. Hallowell, Wiscasset^ and Mackias 
are considerable places, to say nothing of Passamaquoddy, a 
sort of Land"'s End in Cornwall, or Johnny Groat's House, at 
the very extremity of the Union, and which sends out a consi- 
derable number of small vessels. 

Trude and Remurces. — The principal trade consists in lum- 
ber and fish, of which the inhabitants carry great quantities to 
the sea-ports of America, and to the West Indies. The ma- 
nufactures are principally of the domestic kind. 

Government. — The District of Maixe is politically con- 
nected with Massachusetts ; but as the population is rapidly in- 
creasing, a separate government may probably be soon demanded. 

History.— The first settlement made in the province of 
Maine was about the year 1630. Disputes with the proprie- 
tors and the Massachusetts court, and war with the Indians, 
harassed the colonists so much, that in 1675 all the settlements 
were in a manner bi')ken up and destroyed. Several rein- 
forcements arriA^ed after this ; but the whole country, down to 
the year 1702, exhibited a continued scene of killing, burning, 
and destroying. Even so late as the year 1748, persons were 
murdered and captivated by the Indians in many of the towns 
on the sea coast. Since that time, the inhabitants have lived in 
peace, and their numbers and property are rapidly augmenting. 



UNITED STATES. 119 



VERMONT. 

Situation and Extent. TTERMONT is bounded north, by 

Canada; east, by Connecticut ri- 
ver, which divides it from New Hampshire; south, by Mas- 
sachusetts ; west, by New York. It is situated between 42 
deg. 42 min. and 45 deg. north lat , and 3 deg. 38 min. and 
5 deg. 27 min. east long. It is 166 miles long, and its great- 
est breadth is 93 miles. Its area is about 10,000 square miles, 
or 6,400,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — This state, on the east side of the 
mountain, is watered by Paupanhoosak, Quechoy, Weld's, 
White, Black, and West rivers, which run from west to east 
into Connecticut river ; and west of the mountains by the river 
Lamoil, over which is a natural stone bridge, seven or eight 
rods in length, by Onion river and Otter creek, which empty 
by one mouth into lake Champlain, 20 or 80 miles south of 
St. John'^s. Otter creek is navigable for boats 50 miles. The 
lands adjacent are of an excellent quality, and are annually 
enriclved by the overflowing of the water, occasioned by the 
melting of the snow on the Green mountains. 

A chain of high mountains, running north and south, divides 
this state nearly in the centre between Connecticut river and 
lake Champlain. The height of land is generally from 20 to 
80 miles from the river, and about the same distance from the 
New York line. The natural growth upon this mountain is 
hemlock, pine, spruce, and evergreens ; hence it has always a 
green appearance, and on this account has obtained the de- 
scriptive name of Mo?i.<} Ver^ Green mountain. On some high 
■parts of this mountain, snow lies till May, and sometimes till 
June. 

• The country is generally hilly, but not rocky. It is finely 
watered, and affords the best of pasturage for cattle. On the 



120 VIEW OF THE 

banks of the lakes, rivers, and rivulets, are interspersed raanv 
fine tracts of rich land. T]ie heavy growth of timber, which is 
common throughout the state, evince the strength and fertihty 
of the soil. Elm, black birch, maple, ash, and bass-wood, 
grow in the moist low ground ; and the banks of the rivers are 
timbered principally with white pine, intermingled with vales 
of beech, elm, and white oak. The inhabitants cultivate wheat, 
rye, bai-ley, oats, Indian corn, &c. The corn, however, is 
frequently cut off by the early frosts, especially on the moun- 
tains and hiiis. That which grows on the banks of the rivers 
is not so frequently injured. Flax is raised in considerable 
quantities, and the soil is good for hemp. Potatoes, pumpkins, 
and garden roots and vegetables, grow here in great plenty. 
Large quantities of sugar, of a good quality and flavour, are 
made from the sugar maple. 

Iron is found in abundance throughout the state. Lead, 
copperas, flint, and vitriol have been found ; and the west side 
of the state abounds with marble. 

This state is extremely healthy. Snow begins to fall com- 
monly in the beginning of November, and is generally gone by 
the middle of April. During this season, the inhabitants 
usually enjoy a serene sky, and a keen, cold air. The ground 
is seldom frozen to any great depth, being covered with a great 
body of snow before the severe frosts begin. In the spring, 
the snow, in common, is gradually dissolved by the warm in- 
fluences of the sun. In this way the earth is enriched and 
moistened, and spring advances with surprising quickness. 

Population. — The population of Vermont in 1817 amounted 
to 290,450, which is above 29 persons to a square mile. Al- 
though it is off the sea coast, far from a market, and without 
any populous towns, yet its inhabitants have nearly doubled 
within the last 20 years. 

Manners. — Most of the inhabitants of this state consist of 
emigrants from Massachusetts and Connecticut, except one 
settlement formed by people from Scotland. The Vermonters 
are represented as being hardy, robust, full-featvired, and florid 
in their complexions : as they are mostly all agriculturalists or 
mechanics, thev are independent in their s^entiments ; and their 



UNITED STATES. 121 

wants being mostly supplied among themselves, they are not 
subject to great vicissitudes of fortune, and are generally 
wealthy in proportion as they are industrious. 

Chief Towns. — Bennington is the principal town in Vermont. 
It is situated in the south-west corner of the state ; near the 
f<x»t of the Green mountain. Its public buildings are a church 
for congregationalists, a court-house, and jail. It has a num- 
ber of elegant houses, and is a flourishing town. Near the 
centre of the town is mount Anthony, which rises very high in 
the form of a sugar-loaf The assembly commonly hold their 
sessions at Windsor. 

MontpeUier is the seat of government, and contains 1500 
inhabitants; Bennington, 22-50; Windsor, 2200; Rutland, 
2130; Newbury, 2000 ; Manchester, 2000; Nev/fane, 1700; 
St. Albans, 1400; Middlebury, 1260; Burlington, 1100; 
St. Hero, 1000 ; Craftsbury, 1000 ; Brunswick, 1000. 

Trade and Resources. — The chief business of this state is 
agriculture ; and great quantities of beef, pork, butter, cheese, 
and wool, are raised for market. The principal manufactures 
are of a domestic kind, consisting of wool and flax for family 
use. Iron is manufactured, and also a considerable quantity 
of pot and pearl ashes. 

The principal external trade is with Canada, which, during 
the late war with Great Britain, was carried on to a sreat ex- 
tent. The state has likewise a convenient channel of commerce, 
through the medium of its rivers, with New York, Hartford, 
and Boston. 

The value of lands and houses in this state, as revised by 
the assessors in 1815, was 32,461,120 dollars; and the ave- 
rage value of land was 6 dollars 40 cents. In the same year, 
the gross amount of the customs was 245,195 dollars. 

Government. — The state is divided into twelve counties, and 
245 townships of six miles square. In every township is a 
reserve of two rights of land, of 350 acres each ; one to be ap- 
propriated for the support of public schools, the other to be 
given in fee to the first minister who settles in tlie township. 
A part of the townships were granted by the governor of New 
Hampshire, and the other part by that of Vermont. In those 
6 Q 



122 VIEW OF THE 

townships granted by the former, a right of land is reserved 
for the support of the gospel in foreign parts ; in those granted 
by the latter, a college right, and a right for the support of 
county grammar schools, are reserved. In these reservations, 
liberal jjrovision is made for the support of the gospel, and for 
the promotion of common and collegiate education. 

The territory composing Vermont was long claimed by the 
adjoining states of New Hampshire and New York ; but the 
inhabitants wished it to become an Independent state in 1777, 
and the Green mountain hoys, as they were called, took a very 
active part in the war of the revolution ; but they did not suc- 
ceed in establishing their claim of independence till 1791, when 
« they were admitted, a 14th state, into the Union. The con- 
stitution was adopted in 1793, and Vermont now sends two 
senators and four representatives to congress. 

The declaration of rights is nearly the same as that of New^ 
Hampshire ; but they have an article declaring that no male 
born in the country, or brought over sea, can be held in bond- 
age after 21, and no female after 18 years of age. 

The plan of government is legislative, executive, and judi- 
ciary. The legislative power is vested in representatives, 
chosen annuallv ; every free male of 21 years and upwards, 
who pays taxes, having a vote. The executive is vested in a 
governor, lieutenant-governor, and council of twelve, chosen 
annually, in like manner : and in order ' that the freedom of 
the commonwealth may be kept inviolate for ever,' a council 
of censors is chosen once in seven years, whose duty it is to see 
that the constitution has been preserved inviolate ; whether the 
taxes have been paid, and the public monies properly disposed 
of; whether the public servants have done their duty, and the 
laws been duly executed : and they are empowered, if they 
judge it necessary, to call a convention, to meet two years after 
their sitting, to revise and amend the constitution. 



UNITED STATES. US 



KHODE ISLAND. 

SUuat'ion and Extent. J? HODE ISLAND is bounded on 

the north and east by the common- 
wealth of Massachusetts ; on the south by the Atlantic ; and 
on the west by Connecticut. These limits comprehend what 
lias been called Rhode island and Providence plantations. It 
is situated between 41 deg. 22 min. and 42 deg. north lat., and 
5 deg. and 5. deg. 50 min. east long,, being 45 miles in length, 
and 43 in breadth, and contains 1700 squaie miles, or 1,088,000 
acres. 

Natural Geog)-aphij. ^—Tvoy'idence and Taunton rivers both 
fall into Narragansett bay, the former on the west, the latter 
on the east side of Rhode island. Providence river rises in 
Massachusetts, and is navigable as far as Providence, 30 miles 
from the sea. One branch of Taunton river proceeds from 
Winisimoket ponds; the other rises within about a mile of 
Charles river. In its course, southerly, it passes by the town 
of Taunton, from which it takes its name. It is navigable for 
small vessels to Taunton. Common tides rise about four feet. 

Narragansett bay is 33 miles in length from south to north, 
and towards Newport about 12 miles in breadth, including the 
islands which it embosoms, of which the principal are, Rhode 
island, Canonicut, Prudence, Patience, Plope, Dyer's, . and 
^log island. It receives the waters of Providence, Taunton, 
and Patuxet rivers ; and contains five harbours, besides those 
of Newport and Providence. Its banks are clad with settle- 
ments, and there are a number of pretty little towns, the view 
of which from the water has a fine effect. 

In the town of Bristol is mount Hope, which is remarkable 
only on account of its having been tlie seat of king Philip, and 
the place where he was killed. 



124 VIEW OF THE 

The face of the country is agreeably urteveh, some places 
being hilly, but not mountainous. It is, generally speaking, a 
country for pasture and not for grain. It, however, produces 
corn, rye, barley, oats, and flax, and culinary plants and roots 
in great variety and abundance. Its natural growth is the 
same as in the other New England states. The western and 
north-western parts of the state are but thinly inhabited, and 
are barren and rocky. In the Narragansett country, the land 
is fine for grazing. The people are generally farmers, and 
raise great numbers of the finest and largest neat cattle iy 
America. I'hey keep large dairies, and make butter and 
cheese of the best quahty, and in large quantities, for exporta- 
tion. Narragansett is famed for an excellent breed of pacing 
horses. They are strong, and remarkable for their speed, 
and for their excellency in enduring the fatigues of a long 
journey. 

Iron ore is found in great plenty, and the state abounds 
with limestone and marble. Some copper ore and loadstone 
have also been found ; and there are several mineral springs, 
but (jf no great importance, 

The climate is salubrious and healthy ; but the winters are 
sometimes long and severe, commencing in November, and 
ending in March or April. There is a very short spring, but 
the summer and autumn are delightful. Volney remarks on 
this subject, ' Were I obliged to select the most favourable 
spot in America as the place of my abode, my choice would 
fall upon the southern point of Rhode island.' 

Population. — The population of Rhode island in 1817 
amounted to 98,721, which is 98 persons to a square mile. 

Manners. — The inhabitants of this state are generally pro- 
prietors of the farms they cultivate, and are therefore inde- 
pendent. The inhabitants of the towns are merchants, m^-nu- 
facturers, mechanics, seamen, and fishermen. The lands are 
not entailed, and hence there are no aristocracy, but indepen- 
dence is easily attained by industry. The women are said to 
be very pt)lite and beautiful ; and the state being esteemed the 
Eden of America, is much resorted to by strangers, which 
gives A peculiar openness and urbanity to their manners. 



UNITED STATES. 125 

There are still a few Indians scattered through the country ; 
but their ill-constructed and miserable huts exhibit but a small 
remove towards civilization. 

Chief Toxons. — Newport is situated on the south-west point 
of Rhode island, in lat. 41 deg. 29 min. It extends about a 
mile from north to south, along Narragansett bay, and is about 
one-third of a mile in breadth, rising, as it proceeds from the 
water, by a considerable ascent. The streets cross one another 
at right angles, and are all well paved. The number of inha- 
bitants, by the census of 1810, was 10,071, and the number of 
houses is about 1600, chiefly built of wood, and painted white. 
The public buildings are, a state-house, academy, public li- 
brary, four baptist churches, two for congregationalists, . and 
one each for episcopalians, quakers, Moravians, and Jews. 

The situation of this city is beautiful, and the salubrity of 
the climate is proverbial, in consequence of which it becomes a 
great resort for strangers, particularl}'^ from the southern states, 
during the summer season. It is also noted for the excellent 
supply of provisions in its market, particularly offish, of which 
there is said to be 50 or 60 different kinds. The packets 
which ply between this place and New York, and Providence, 
are of great service to the city and to the public. They are 
generally under excellent regulations, and afford better accom- 
modations and travelling at a cheaper rate than is to be found 
in most places of the world. The distance from hence to New 
York is about 200 miles, which is often sailed in little more 
than '^0 hours ; and the fare, including bed and provisions, is 
only nine dollars. From hence to Providence, 30 miles, it is 
one dollar. 

Newport is a favourable situation for commerce, and has one 
of the most safe and commodious harbours in the world. On 
the opposite side of the harbour is Goat island, on which there 
is a fort and military station. The trade of Newport is prin- 
cipally in shipping; and there is a manufactory of cotton, and 
one of duck, both of which are said to be in a thriving state. 

Providence, the capital of Rhode island, is beaulif Lilly situ- 
ated on the head of Narragansett bay, and is divided into two 
parts by the Providence river, over which there is a good 



126 VIEW OF THE 

bridge, with a draw in it, to allow vessels to pass. The west 
side of the town is low, but the east side rises, by a rapid 
ascent, to a considerable elevation. The number of inhabit- 
ants, in 1815, was 11,600, and they are rapidly increasing. 

' In its appearance,' says a late English traveller, ' it com- 
bined the attractions af Southampton and Doncaster. There 
are manufactories in the neighbourhood. All places of public 
social worship 'are, in the state of New York, called churches; 
not, as with our dissienters, chapels. In these states, the old 
English distinction of " churcli," and " meeting-house,"''' conti- 
nues. Here is an excellent market-house, a zcorkhouse, four 
or five public schools, an university with a tolerable library, a 
public library, and an hospital. Several of the churches are 
very handsome : they, as well as many private houses, are built 
of wood, painted white, with green Venetian shutters, present- 
ing a neat elegance very superior to our smoky brick buildings. 
I have not seen a town in Europe or America, which bore the 
appearance of general prosperity equal to Providence. Ship 
and house-builders wei'e fully employed, as indeed were all 
classes of mechanics. The residents are native Americans.'' 

The college is situated on the hill, and commanding a>fine 
view of the town, bay, shipping, and country for many miles 
round. The building is of brick, with a slated roof, 150 feet 
long, 46 wide, and four stories high ; and contains lodgings fojr 
upwards of 100 students. It has a valuable philosophical ap- 
paratus, and a library containing upwards of 3000 volumes. 
Providence has a pretty extensive shipping trade, and sends 
very large ships to the East Indies and other distant parts of 
the world. 

The other principal towns are, SoutJi Kingston., situated on 
the west side of Narragansett bay, nearly opposite Newport, 
and contains 3000 inhabitants. Bristol is pleasantly situated 
on the bay, about half way between Providence and Newport, 
and contains 1673 inhabitants. It has a little shipping trade. 
IVanrn is a flourishing little town, containing about 1600 in- 
liabitants. It is on the west side of the bay, on the Warren 
river, and carries on a brisk coasting and foreign trade. Little 
Cnmpton, East Greenxcich, and Compton, are also growing 



UNITED STATES. 127 

towns. The state is supplied with good roads and bridges, 
some of which have been constructed on an ingenious plan, 
and at great expence. No canals have yet been made, but se- 
V eral are proj ected . 

Trade and Resources. — This state is very favourably situ- 
ated for commerce, of which it has a large share. The exports 
! are grain, flax-seed, lumber, iiorses, cattle, beef, pork, fish, 
poultry, onions, butter, clieese, spirits, and cotton and linen 
goods. The imports are European aud India manufactures, 
! West India produce, and logwood. 

The manufactures are cotton and linen goods, bar and sheet 
iron, steel, nails, anchors and other iron work for shipping, 
sail-cloth, paper, rum, &c. The cotton manufacture is ex- 
' tending ; but it is yet in its infancy, and, being subject to a 
competition with the organized manufjictures of Britain, it 
must be attended with a considerable degree of inconvenience, 
and perhaps of risk. 

The writer above mentioned says, ' At Pautucket, four 
miles from" Providence, are 13 cotton manufactories; six of 
which are on a large scale. They are not the property of 
individuals, but of companies. I visited three of these. 
They had excellent machinery ; not more than one half of 
which was in operation. Children from six to ten years 
of age, of both sexes, are paid Qs. 9f/. per week ; ditto eleven 
to sixteen, lO*". per week ; women, \9.s. ; men, 27.?. to 81*. Qd. 
Very few of the latter are employed. Several of the manufac- 
tories of this place are situated on a fine fall of water, 50 feet 
in length, and passing through several chasms in a rock which 
extends across the river.' 

The value of houses and lands in Rhode island, as equalized 
by the assessors in 1815, was 20,907,766 dollars. The value 
of land was estimated at 39 dollars an acre. The gross 
amount of the duties of merchandise, at the same time, was 
287,167 dollars. The registered tonnage in foreign trade was 
29,019, and the tonnage employed in the coasting trade 539- 

Education. — The state of education is. said to be considera- 
bly l)ehind that of the other New England states, but is im- 
proving. The chief seminary is the college at Providence, 



128 VIEW OF THE 

already mentioned ; and there is an academy at Newport, un- 
der good regulations, besides various seminaries throughout 
the state. 

Religno7i.— There is no distinction made on account of reli- 
gious opinions ; but every man worships God in any way his 
conscience dictates, witliout interfering with his civil rights. 
There are several benevolent and useful societies in the state, 
among which may be noticed one ' for the abolition of the slave- 
trade, and for the improvemeut of the African race.' 

Government. — The state is divided into five counties and 30 
townships. The legislature consists of a governor, deputy 
governor, ten senators, and a representative from each town- 
ship. They are chosen by the people twice every year, and 
they hold two sessions annually. 

History. — The men who fled from their native homes to 
Massachusetts, to avoid persecution for their religious senti- 
ments, were no sooner settled than they began to imitate their 
tyrants, by enforcing an uniformity of opinions. This induced 
Mr. Roger Williams, a minister, and twenty others to fly from 
their Christian brethren, and to seek an asylum amongst the 
more merciful Indians in Rhode island, about the year 1635. 
These fugitives built a village, which they called Providence, 
and were soon joined by many others, particularly quakers and 
baptists. But being destitute of a patent, or any legal autho- 
rity, Mr. Williams went to England as agent in 1643, and by 
the assistance of Sir Henry Vane, jun. obtained of the earl of 
Warwick (then governor and admiral of all the plantations) 
and his council, « a free and absolute charter of civil incorpora- 
tion, by the name of the incorporation of Providence planta- 
tions in Narragansett bay.' This lasted until the charter 
granted by Charles II. in 1668, by which the incorporation 
was styled, ' The English colony of Rhode island and Provi- 
dence plantations in New England.' 

The free and liberal toleration established in this island 
soon brought it into a highly flourisliing state. The inhabit- 
ants, during the revolution, acted with great spirit, and pro- 
duced the second general in the field. 



UNITED STATES. 129 



CONNECTICUT. 

Situation and Extent. T^HIS state is bounded on the north 

by Massachusetts; on the east by 
Rhode island ; on the south by the sound, which divides it 
from Long island ; and on the west by the state of New York. 
It is situated between 4*1 and 42 deg. north lat,, and 3 deg. 20 
min. and 5 deg. east long. Its greatest length is 83 miles, and 
its greatest breadth 72. Its area is 4500 square miles, or 
2,880,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — The principal rivers in this state are, 
Connecticut, Housatonick, the Thames, and their branches. 
One branch of tiie Housatonick passes through a number of 
pleasant towns, and empties into the sound between Stratford 
and Milford. It is navigable twelve miles to Derby. A bar 
of shells at its mouth obstructs its navigation for large vessels. 
In this river, between Salisbury and Canaan, is a cataract, 
where the water of the whole river, which is 150 yards wide, 
falls about 60 feet perpendicularly, in a perfectly white sheet. 
A copious mist arises, in which floating rainbows are seen in 
various places at the same time, exhibiting a scene exceedingly 
grand and beautiful. 

The Thames empties into Long island sound at New Lon- 
don. It is navigable 14 miles to Norwich landing. Here it 
loses its name, and branches into Shetucket on the east, and 
Norwich or Little river on the west. Little river, about a 
mile from its mouth, has a remarkable and very romantic ca- 
taract. A rock, ten or twelve feet in perpendicular height, 
extends quite across the channel of the river. Over this the 
whole rivei' pitches, in one entire sheet, upon a bed of rocks 
below. Here the river is compressed into a very narrow chan- 
nel between two craggy cliffs, one of which towers to a consi- 
derable height. The channel descends gradually, is very 
crooked, and covered with pointed rocks. Upon these the 

R 



130 VIEW OF THE 

water swiftly tumbles, foaming with the most violent agitation, 
15 or 20 rods, into a broad bason which spreads before it. At 
the bottom of the perpendicular falls, the rocks are curiously 
excavated by the constant pouring of tlie Avater. Some of the 
cavities, which are all of a circular form, are five or six feet 
deep. The smoothness of the water above its descent ; the 
regularity and beauty of the perpendicular fall ; the tremen- 
dous roughness of the other ; and the craggy, towering clifF 
which impends the Avhole, ])resent to the view of the spectator 
a scene indescribably delightful and majestic. On this river 
are some of the finest situations for mill seats in New England, 
and those inmiediately below the falls, occupied by Lathrop''s 
mills, are perhaps not exceeded by any in the world. Across 
the mouth of this river is a broad, conmiodious bi'idge, in the 
form of a wharf, built at a great expence. 

Shetucket river, the other branch of the Thames, tumbles 
over many falls, and affords a vast number of mill seats. This 
river is fed by numberless brooks from every part of the adja- 
cent country. At the mouth of Shetucket is a bridge of tim- 
ber, 124 feet in length, supported at each end by pillars, and 
kept up in the middle by braces on the top, in the nature of 
an arch. 

Naugatuk, Farmington, Mill, and West river, and North 
Haven river, are too small to merit a particular description. 

The face of the country is agreeably uneven. To the south 
the coast extends along the sound the whole length of the state, 
and has many fine inlets, which are highly advantageous to 
commerce. Towards the north-west the country swells out 
into high, broken, hilly lands, but there are no mountains. 
This hilly country is said to be very romantic. The state is 
remarkably well watered, abounding in small streams. 

The soil is various, some parts being poor and sandy, and 
some very fertile ; generally speaking, there is a great deal of 
good land, and the state is remarkably well calculated for 
grazing. 

The climate is subject to great and sudden changes, passing 
to the extremes of heat and cold ; but it is very healthy, and 
.the state abounds with remarkable instances of longevity. 



UNITED STATES. 131 

Iron ore Is found in the state in great abundance ; and lead, 
copper, and zinc, have also been discovered, though in no great 
quantities. Pit-coal has been found, but not in sufficient quan- 
tity to induce the inhabitants to dig for it. There arc a num- 
ber of mineral springs in the state : the most important is in 
Lichfield county, which is highly impregnated with carbonic 
acid gas and sulphurated hydrogen gas, and is said to be very 
useful in curing various diseases, particularly dyspepsia, rheu- 
, «iatism, and those of the cutaneous kind. 

Population.-— The number of the inhabitants in this state in 
1817 was 349,568, which is nearly 78 persons to a square mile. 
Manner*.— The population of Connecticut consists of farm- 
ers, mechanics, manufacturers, ministersof religion, instructors 
of youth, doctors of medicine, and lawyers. There are no idle 
peo])le to be seen, although it is said that too many are engaged 
in the learned professions ; and Connecticut sends out a full 
proportion of luminaries annually, to enlighten other states. 

The absence of want and poverty in this state, dearly evinceii 
the evils that arise from the feudal system, and the law of pri- 
■ moo-eniture. It contains no overgrown estates, and exhibits no 
revolting scenes of wretchedness and misery. The cultivators 
are a hardy, industrious race, whose labour is rewarded in 
* peace, and health, and sweet content."" 

It must, however, be confessed, that they have created evils 
which tend to embitter the happiness which a superficial ob- 
server might conclude they possessed. The clergy are nume- 
rous, and constitute a Kind of selfish, overbearing aristocracy; 
while their rage for theological disputation generates the worst 
passions amongst their fiocks. This infatuation is, however, 
rapidly abating ; but it has probably been the origin of that 
litigious disposition, which rages here as well as in the states of 
Massachusetts and Rhode island. Every trivial dispute must 
be settled according to law; which renders it an inviting 
profi'ssion. 

Chief To:i-7hs.-r-Harfford is a handsome city, the capital of 
Connecticut, and is, alternately with Newhaven, the seat of 
legislation for the state. It is situated on Connecticut river, 
at the head of sloop navigation, 50 miles (ibove Lowg island 



1^2 VIEW OF THE 

sound. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one ano 
ther at right angles ; but they are not paved. The city con- 
sists of about 400 houses, and contains between 3 and 4000 
inhabitants. The public buildings are, the state-house, an 
elegant edifice, two congregational churches, and one episcopal 
church. The citizens carry on an active commerce, in all the 
products of the state, to the southern states and the West In- 
dies ; and they have a large share of country trade. Consi- 
derable manufactures are carried on with spirit, and are 
increasing. The markets are well supplied with wholesome 
provisions, which are sold at reasonable rates, 

Nexvhaven is a handsome city. The surrounding scenery 
is very fine, and the situation pleasant, and favourable for 
commerce. It is built on a considerable bay, on Long island 
sound, and covers part of a pretty extensive plain, having a 
river on each side of it. The streets cross one another at right 
angles, and there is a square in the middle, round which are 
the public buildings, which have a very handsome appearance. 
They are, the colleges, state-house, three congregational, and 
one episcopal church. The college is esteemed one of the best 
seminaries in the United States, and, by the citizens of New- 
haven, is considered the very best. The city contains nearly 
6000 inhabitants, who carry on a very active trade with New 
York and the West Indies ; and they have established consi- 
derable manufactures, which are said to be in a thriving state. 

There are three other incorporated cities, viz. New London, 
Norwich, and Middletown. New London is handsomely situ- 
ated on the Thames, and has an excellent harbour and exten- 
sive trade. It contains upwards of 3000 inhabitants, and has 
a bank, and three houses for public worship. Norwich is on 
the same river, at the head of navigation, and has numerous 
manufactures and an extensive trade. It contains nearly 3000 
inhabitants, and has a court-house, a bank, an insurance com- 
pany, an academy, and three places for public worship. Mid- 
dletown, situated on Connecticut river, 15 miles below Hartford, 
contains about 2000 inhabitants, and carries on a considerable 
trade. There is a bank, an insurance company, a court-house, 
and two places for public worship in the city. Liclijield is a 



UNITED STATES. 138 

fine town, containing upwards of 4000 people. It is beauti- 
fully situated in an elevated part of the.state, and has a court- 
house, meeting-house, and academy. W ether. sjield is the oldest 
town in the state, and is remarkable for the culture of onions. 
The other villages are numerous, the whole state being studded 
with them, containing from 500 to 1500 or 2000 inhabitants -. 
among others may be mentioned Danhury, Windham, Had- 
dam, and To/ten J. The houses are generally built of wood, 
on a handsome plan, and are painted white; which gives the 
country an air of great cleanliness and neatness. This enter- 
prising little state first set the example of making turnpike 
roads In New England ; and these and other good roads are so 
abundant, that travelling is facilitated in all directions. There 
are a number of bridges in the state, some of them constructed 
at great expence, which are of great utihty. 

Education.— Edi\xc?iiion is upon an excellent footing, and the 
school fund is more ample than that of any other state. The 
\ college at Newhaven, which is named Yale college, was found- 
ed in 1700. The present college edifice, which is of brick, 
i was built in 1750, and is 100 feet long, and 40 feet wide, three 
j stories high, and contains 33 chambers, and 64 studies, conve- 
j nient for the reception of 100 students. The college thapel, 
I which is also of brick, was built in 1761, being 50 feet by 40, 
i with a steeple 125 feet high. In this building is the public 
I library and the philosophical apparatus. The college museum, 
I to which additions are constantly making, contains some great 
i natural curiosities. 

1 Academies have been established at Greenfield, Plainfield, 

Canterbury, Norwich, Wimlham, and Pomfret. The law 

directs that a grammar school shall be kept in every county 

town throughout the state ; but the great, popular, and per- 

! manent advantage on this branch, arises from the establishment 

I of schools in every township, being an arrangement similar to 

the parish schools in Scotland, and which produced similar ef- 

I fects ; a general diffusion of knowledge, ' steady habits,' and 

I sobriety of maimers. 

) Trade and Resources.— The farmers of Connecticut and 

I their families are generally dressed in cloth of their manufac- 



134 VIEW OF THE 

tare, which is Substantial and good ; and there are considera- 
ble and very important manufactures, on a larger scale, 
throughout the state, viz, woollens, linens, cottons, leather of 
every description, hats, stockings, paper, wire, bells, soap, 
candles, oil, clocks and watches, earthen and stone ware, 
chaises, harness, &c. 

The state has a very considerable coasting and foreign trade. 
The exports are principally to the West India islands, consist- 
ing' of live stock, timber, grain, fruit, fish, and provisions. 
The imports consist of manufactured piece goods of the finer 
kinds, wines, and groceries. 

The value of houses and lands, according to the return of 
the assessors in 1815, amounted to 88,534,971 dollars; the 
land being valued at 34 doUars per acre. The duties on mer- 
chandise was 247,283 dollars. There was employed in foreign 
trade 33,472 tons, and in the coasting trade 1675. 

Religion. — In religion, the form of church government is. 
generally congregational or presbyterian ; but every other 
form may be freely exercised without molestation, if it is not 
in direct variance with the general opinion. The episcopalians 
are respectable ; and the baptists are numerous. There is 
scarcely any other sect worth mentioning. 

Government. — The form of government is derived from the 
ancient charter ; by which the legislative authority is vested ia 
a governor, deputy governor, twelve assistants or counsellers, 
and the representatives of the people, styled the General As- 
sembly. They are divided into two branches, of which the 
governor, deputy governor, and assistants form one, and the 
representatives the other : and no law can pass without the 
concurrence of both. 'J.'he governor and assistants are chosen 
annually ; and the representatives, who must not exceed two 
for each town, are chosen twice each year. The suffrage is 
universal, every freeman vrho is of age having a vote, without 
regard to property. 

History. — The first grant of Connecticut Avas made by the 
Plymouth council, to the earl of Warwick, in 1630, and con- 
firmed by his majesty in council the same year. The year 
following, the earl assigned this grant to lord Say and Seal, 



UNITED STATES. 185 

lord Brook, and nine others. No English settlements were 
attempted in Connecticut until the year 1633, when a number 
of Indian traders, having purcliased of two principal sachems 
a tract of land at t!ie mouth of Little river in Windsor, built 
a house and fortified it, and ever after maintained their right 
of soil upon the river. 

The same year, a little before the arrival of the English, a 
company of Dutch traders came to Hartford, and built a house 
which they called the H'lrse of Good Hoj)c, and erected a small 
fort, in which they planted two cannon. The remains of this 
settlement are still visible on the bank of Connecticut river. 
This was the only settlement of the Dutch in Connecticut in 
those ancient times. 

In 1634^ lord Say and Seal, &:c. sent over a small number 
of men, who built a fort at Say brook, and held a treaty with 
the Pequot Indians, who, in a formal manner, gave to the 
English their right to Connecticut river and the adjacent coun- 
try. In the year following, a number of persons came and 
settled in Hartford, AVethersfield, and Windsor. 

In the year 1637, the colonists took the field against the 
Indians. All the males of a whole tribe were killed, except a 
few that escaped ; and the women and children were sent to 
Bermudas, and sold for slaves ! Two years after, the first 
church was formed at Newhaven, the members of which had 
all things in common, and formed themselves into a civil court, 
which decided all things according to the law of Moses. 

The history of Connecticut exhibits the same intolerance, 
ignorance, and mistaken zeal, as that of their neighbours. 
They prohibited the use of tobacco, and persecuted tiie quakers. 
In 166^2, this state obtained a charter from Charles II.; but 
so ignorant were the Europeans of geography, that the patents 
I often extended they knew not where ; and the people of Con- 
\ necticut construed their charter literally, and passing over New 
j York, made purchases of land from the Indians on tlie Dela- 
ware river, within their supposed limits, v.-hich they conceived 
; extended to the South sea. But after many disputes, this 
i state ceded to congress all their lands west of Pennsylvania, 
1 except a reserve of 20 miles square. 



136 VIEW OF THE 

In 1672, the laws of the state were revised, printed, and 
every family was obliged to purchase a copy. They have 
since been judiciously revised and simplified. During the re- 
volution, the people were very active and suffered greatly. 



■ NEW YORK. 

SiUiatimi and Extent. T^HIS interesting state is situated be- 
tween 40 deg. 33 min. and 45 deg. 
north lat., and 3 deg. 43 min. east, and 2 deg. 43 min. west 
long. ; its extreme length, from east to west, being 340, and 
extreme breadth, from north to south, 317 miles; but it is 
very irregular. The square contents amount to about 54,000 
square miles, or 34,560,000 acres. This flourishing state is 
larger than both England and Wales, the extent of which is 
computed at 49,450 square miles. 

New York is bounded on the south-east by the Atlantic 
ocean ; on the east by Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Ver- 
mont ; on the north by the 45th degree of latitude, which di- 
vides it from Canada ; on the north-west by the river Iroquois, . 
or St. Lawrence, and the lakes Ontario and Erie ; and on the 
south-west and south by Pennsylvania and New Jersey. 

Natural Geography. — There is a vast variety in the face of 
the country. From the highlands, about 50 miles above New 
York, the state is hilly, in many places mountainous ; and the 
hills continue to the extremity of the state northward, and to 
Utica westward : from thence to its western extremity, nearly 
300 miles, there is a most elegant country, rich and well wa- 
tered, having spurs of the Alleghany mountains on the one 
side, and on the other the lakes Ontario and Erie, two of the 
finest sheets of water in the world. The lakes are so nume- 
rous, and having been before described, the bare mention of 



UNITED STATES. 187 

the names of the most important must suffice in this place. 
Besides the large lakes, there are lake Champlain, lake George, 
Oneida, Onondago, Skeneateless, Owasca, Cayuga, Seneca, 
Canandagua, and Chataughque. 

The principal rivers are the Hudson, the Mohawk, the 
Oneida, and the Genesee. The head waters of the Alleghany, 
Susquehanna, and Delaware rivers, are also in the southern 
part of this state. 

The state abounds with iron ore and lead ; copper and zinc 
have been found in various places. Silver has been found, 
but in no great quantity. Marble abounds, and is of an ex- 
cellent quahty. Freestone and slate are in plenty. Plaster of 
Paris is found in great variety, and is used with good effect as 
manure. Isinglass and sulphur are common in many places: 
and coal has also been found, but in no great quantity. The 
salt springs at Onondago are very strong, and produce an im- 
mense quantity of that useful article. There are many sul- 
phur springs, and several air springs, which last are probably 
the gas arising from the combustion of pit coal : there is a me- 
dicinal spring at Lebanon, which affords a pleasant bath, at 
the temperature of 72 deg., and is much frequented ; but the 
most remarkable springs in this state, or indeed in the United 
States, are those of Ballston and Saratoga. These waters ar6 
highly medicinal, and are of great efficacy in dyspepsia and 
other complaints; and are much frequented in the summer 
season. 

The soil, in such an extent of country, must be various. 
The southern and eastern part is a dry gravel, mixed with 
loam, and is not very rich ; the mountainous part is pretty 
well adapted for grazing, and there are rich valleys on the 
rivers. The whole of the northern and western part is rich 
and fertile, except- a small portion bordering on the state of 
Pennsylvania, which, however, is interspersed with fertile lands. 

The climate is various. In that part which lies to the south 
of the highlands, it is remarkably changeable ; it experiences 
all the vicissitudes of heat and coldj and sometimes a change 
of 30 degrees in the course of 24 hours. Among the moun- 
tains, and along lake Champlain, towards Canada, the winters 

S 



1S8 VIEW OF THE 

are long and severe, and the summers are sometimes very 
sultry and hot. In the western district, the climate is more 
temperate, and the winters are subject to a good deal of rain ; 
but the whole country is healthy, the neighbourhood of ponds 
and undrained morasses excepted. The winter commences 
about Christmas, and ends with February ; but March and 
April are sometimes cold months. 

Population. — The total population of this state in 1817 
amounted to 1,486,739, which is ,*27 persons to a square mile. 
In 1790, the population was only 340,120, so that in 27 years 
it has been more than quadrupled. 

Manners and Customs. — The society in this state is very 
much mixed. To the west the majority are New Englanders ; 
while the city and southern part of the state, and along the 
Hudson and Mohawk rivers, are mostly of Dutch, Scottish, 
and Irish extraction. Kalm, in describing the Dutch in this 
state, observes, that this people ' are every where well known 
for their avarice and selfishness. They are unhospitable, and 
never disposed to oblige beyond a prospect of interest.' An 
American writer on this passage says, ' The design of the 
Dutch, in comiriif to this country, was not to improve their 
minds, nor to erect public seminaries of science, but to increase 
their fortunes. Thus did their darling passion, and the un- 
happy circumstance of their situation, debar them from emi- 
nence, or even progress, in the field of science. A want of 
schools and seminaries furnished with able instructors of their 
own nation ; their ignorance of the English language ; 
and their national pride, have all conspired to keep them in 
their native ignorance of every mental improvement. This 
will account for many unfavourable peculiarities in their man- 
ners and customs."' 

^ It is not to be doubted,' continues this writer, ' that there 
are many bright geniuses among them, who, through the dif- 
ficulties of obtaining an education, have remained unpolished 
and unimproved. There are many indeed who, by their assi- 
duous application, surmount every obstacle, burst through the 
cloud that overshadows them, and shine with distinguished 
lustre in the first offices of church and state ; and their lustre 



UNITED STATES. 139 

Is brightened by being contrasted with the total darkness in 
which others are involved; for, fi'om the causes already as- 
signed, no people are so ignorant as the lower class. 

' Another cause of" their unsociability and apparent reserve, 
in encouraains: and associating with strangers, is their want of 
enterprise. Their neighbours, more enterprising, emigrate 
and reap the fruit of those advantages which their local situa- 
tion puts in their own power. This excites jealousy and rival- 
sliip. The balance of this rivalship they see is against them. 
The preservation of their interest and of their dignity calls 
them to unite in opposing their rivals. But it is evident that 
their union and friendship, in this regard, have too often their 
prime source in interest, are continued through interest, and 
have interest for their ultimate object. The intended effect of 
this union is in a great measure lost, through the natural jea- 
lousies and clashing iuterests of heads of families and their 
parties ; for although they are all combined by the general 
bond of national prejudice, national customs, and national reli- 
gion, they are split hito numerous and warm parties. And 
among them, he who has the greatest interest and the strong- 
est party, not he who has the most merit, is the greatest man, 
the most honourable man, and the best qualified for public 
office. In their meetings, they are ever led to think and say 
the worst of their opponents, and recal all the little circum- 
stances of burlesque, malice, or mistake in them, which persons 
of more liberal sentiments would wish charitably to veil and 
bury in oblivion. Thus it is that the practice of slandering 
and injuring each other's charaaters becomes common, and 
furnishes a great part of their daily conversation ; while that 
sweet and friendly intercourse which mends the heart, and that 
dignified and sensible conversation that improves t|ie inind, are 
ahnost wholly neglected.*' 

The labouring classes are generally well clothed, and have 
an air of independence and carelessness not usually seen in 
England. 'I'he dress of the genteeler classes is more slovenly 
and loose than that of men in the same rank in this country. 
The ladies are handsome, but have not that animated glow of 
Ijcalllj which distinguishes the British fair. But this subject 



14^ VIEW OF THE 

will be considered more at length, when we come to draw a 
portrait of the American character. 

Chief Towns. — New York, the capital of the provmce, is 
situated on a promontory, on the extremity of York island, at 
the mouth of Hudson river, a noble and picturesque stream. 
The bay is about nine miles long, and three broad, without 
reckoning the branches of the rivers on each side of the toM n. 
From the ocean at Sandy Hook to the city is not more than 
28 miles. The water is deep enough to float the largest ves- 
sels. Ships of 90 guns have anchored opposite the city. 
There they lie land-locked, and well secured from winds and 
storms ; and fleets of the greatest number liave ample space 
for mooring. 

New York is the first city in the United States for wealth, 
commerce, and population ; as it also is the finest and most 
agreeable for its situation and buildings. It has neither the 
narrow and confined irregularity of Boston, nor the monoto- 
nous regularity of Philadelphia, but a happy medium between 
both. When the intended improvements are completed, it will 
be a very elegant and commodious town. 

The Broadway and the Bowery road are the two finest ave- 
nues in the city, antl nearly of the same width as Oxford street 
in London. The first commences from the Grand Battery, 
situate at the extreme point of the town, and divides it into 
two unequal parts. It is upwards of two miles in length, 
though the pavement does not extend above a mile and a 
quarter : the remainder of the road consists of straggling 
houses, which are the commencement of new streets already 
planned out. The Bowery road commences at Chatham street, 
which branches off* from the Broadway to the right, by the 
side of the park. After proceeding about a mile and a half, 
it joins the Broadway, and terminates the plan which is in- 
tended to be carried into effV^ct for the enlargement of the 
city. 

The houses in the Broadway are lofty and mcII built. 
They are constructed in the English style, and differ but little 
from those of London at the west end of the town ; except 
that they are universally built of red brick. In the vicinity of 



UNITED STATES. 141 

the Battery, and for some distance up the Broadway, they are 
nearly all private houses, and occupied by the principal mer- 
chants and gentry of New York ; after which the Broadway is 
hned with large commodious shops of every description, well 
stocked with European and India goods, and exhibiting as 
splendid and varied a show in their windows as can be met 
with in London. There are several extensive book stores, 
print shops, music shops, jewellers, and silversmiths ; hatters, 
linen drapers, milliners, pastry cooks, coach-makers, hotels, 
and coffee-houses. The street is well paved, and the foot- 
paths are chiefly bricked. In Robinson street, the pavement 
before one of the houses, and the steps of the door, are com- 
posed entirely of marble. 

This fine street and the other principal ones are thus de- 
scribed by Mr. Melish. ' Broadway is the finest street in the 
city ; and from its importance and great beauty, it merits a 
particular description. It commences at the Battery, on the 
south-west point of the city, and runs in a north-east direction 
about two miles and a half, where it forms a junction with the 
Bowery road. The breadth of this street, including the side 
pavements, is about 80 feet, and it is regular, during its whole 
length. It is ornamented with rows of poplar trees on each 
side, and a number of public buildings are situated on it, par- 
i ticularly, the custom-house, trinity church, St. Paul's church, 
the city public buildings, the mechanics' hall, and theihospital. 
The street rises by a gradual ascent from the Battery, about 
half a mile, and is at its greatest elevation opposite the city 
buildings. Its course is through the highest part of the island. 
Greenwich street is next in importance : it rises also at the 
Battery, and, running nearly due north upwards of two miles, 
connects the city with the village of Greenwich. Pearl street 
is one of the most important in the city, in point of trade : it 
rises also near the Battery, and runs nearly parallel with the 
East river to Cherry street ; from thence it runs to the north- 
ward, and falls into Chatham street. Cherry street is a conti- 
nuation of Pearl street, and runs along the East river till it is 
terminated by a bend of the river. Bowery lane is upwards 
of 100 feet wide, rises at Chatham street, and, connected with 



142 VIEW OF THE 

the Boston road, forms a junction with Broadway, as before 
mentioned. Tlie other most important streets are Wall street, 
where the most of the banks and public offices are situated, 
Chatham-street, where the theatre is situated. Front street, 
Water street, and Broad sti'eet. 

' That part of the city which lias been recently laid out on 
East river is constructed on a handsome plan, the streets cross- 
ing one another at right angles ; and there are several pubhc 
squares. Of these there are by far too few in the city, and 
tliey hardly merit notice. The Battery before mentioned is a 
pretty piece of ground, and commands an elegant view of the 
bay, islands, narrows, and shipping ; but it is quite small, 
consisting of a few acres only.' 

A court-house on a large scale, and worthy of the improved 
state of the city, has recently been built at the end of the park, 
between the Broadwa>' and Chatham street, in a style of mag- 
nificence unequalled in many of the larger cities of Europe. 
The exterior consists wholly of fine marble, ornamented in a 
very neat and elegant style of architecture; and the whole is 
sumiounted by a beautiful dome, which forms a noble orna- 
ment to that part of the town, in which are also situated the 
theatre, mechanic hall, and some of the best private houses in 
New York. The park, though not remarkable for its size, is, 
however, of service, by displaying the siu-rounding buildings 
to greattt* advantage ; and is also a relief to the confined ap- 
pearance of the streets in general. It consists of about four 
acres, planted with elms, planes, willows, and catalpas ; and 
the surrounding foot-walk is encompassed by rows of poplars : 
the whole is inclosed by a wooden paling. This city has its 
\'auxhall and Ranelagh ; but they are poor imitations of those 
near London. They are, however, pleasant places of recrea- 
tion for the inhabitants. 

The other pqblic buildings are, the Federal liall, college, 
eoffee-house, hospital, prison, bridewell. There are seven 
episcopal churches; five presbyterian, two Dutch, three me- 
thodist, two baptist, and two quaker meeting-houses; one 
German, one Lutheran, and one French Calvinistic church; 
one seceder and one Scots refof med church ; one chvirch each 



UNITED STATES. 143 

for unlversalists, congreoatlonalists, Moravians, and Africans ; 
and one Jewish synagogue. 

There are thirty-one benevolent institutions in New York. 
Upwards of twenty newspapers are pubHshed in this city, 
nearly half of which are daily papers ; besides several weekly 
and monthly magazines and essays. A public library is also 
established here, which consists of about 10,000 volumes, 
many of them rare and valuable books. The building which 
contains them is situated in Nassau street, and tJie trustees are 
incorporated by an act of the legislature. There are also 
three or four public reading-rooms and circulating libraries, 
which are supported by some of the principal booksellers, from 
the annual subscriptions of the inhabitants. There is a mu- 
seum of natural curiosities in New York, but it contains no- 
thing worthy of particular notice. 

There are a number of schools in the city, and the college, 
in which two of the professors are Scotsmen, is reckoned a 
very excellent seminary of education. ']\) the north of the 
city, near Greenwich, stands the state prison, modelled upon 
the plan of that of Philadelphia ; and it is said to be one of 
the most benevolent institutions ever established in any country. 

The water side is lined with shipping, which lie along the 
wharfs, or in the small docks called slips, of which there are 
upwards of twelve towards the East river, besides numerous 
piers. The wharfs are large and coannodious, and the ware- 
houses, which are nearly all new buildings, are lofty and sub- 
stantial. The merchants, ship-brokers, &:c. have their offices 
in front on the ground floor of their warehouses. These ranges 
of buildings and wharfs extend from the Grand Battery, on 
both sides of the town, up the Hudson and East rivers, and 
encompass the houses with shipping, whose forest of masts 
gives a stranger a lively idea of the immense trade which this 
city carries on with every part of the globe. New York ap- 
pears to him the Tyre of the new world. 

An intelligent English traveller thus describes his first im- 
pressions on landing in New York. ' I have walked alone 
through the streets, for the purpose of forming an independent 
judgment. Every object is new. I hardly dare trust myself 



144 VIEW OF THE 

in forming conclusions : one most cheering fact is indisputable, 
the absence of irremediable distress. The street population 
bears an aspect essentially different from that of London, or 
large English towns. One striking feature consists in the 
number of blacks, many of whom are finely dressed, the females 
very ludicrously so, showing a partiality to white muslin dresses, 
artificial flowers, and pink shoes. I saw but few well-dressed 
white ladies, but am informed that the greater part are at pre- 
sent at the springs of Balstan and Saratoga. The dress of the 
men is rather deficient in point of neatness and gentility. 
Their appearance, in common with that of the ladies and chil- 
dren, is sallow, and what we should call unhealthy. Our friend 

D tells me that to have colour in the cheeks is an infallible 

criterion by which to be discovered as an Englishman. In a 
British town of any importance, you cannot walk along a lead- 
ing street for half an hour without meeting with almost every 
variety of size, dress, and appearance among the inhabitants ; 
whilst, on the contrary, here they seem all of one family ; and 
though not quite a " drab-coloured creation," the feelings they 
excite are not many degrees removed from the uninteresting 
sensations excited by that expression. The .young men are 
tall, thin, and solemn : their dress is universally trowsers, and 
very generally loose great coats. Old men, in our English 
idea of that phrase, appear very rare. 

' Churches are numerous and handsome : the interior of one 
which I have just visited in Broadway is truly elegant, being 
fitted up with more taste, splendour, and, I presume, expencc, 
than many in London. Several hotels are on an extensive 
scale ; the City Hotel is as large as the London Tavern ; the 
dining, and some of the private rooms, seem fitted up regard- 
less of expence. The price of boarding at this establishment 
is, I understand, cheaper than where I reside. The shops (or 
stores, as they are called) have nothing in their exterior to re- 
commend them : there is not even an attempt at tasteful dis- 
play. The linen and woollen drapers (dry good stores, as 
they are denominated) leave quantities of their goods loose on 
boxes in the street, without any precaution against theft. 
This practice, though a proof of their carelessness, is also an 



UNITED STATES. 145 

evidence as to the political state of society worthy of attention. 
Masses of the population cannot be unemployed, or robbery 
would here be inevitable. A great number of excellent pri- 
vate dwellings are built of red painted brick, which gives them 
a peculiarly neat and clean appearance. In Broadway and 
Wall street trees are planted by the side of the pavement. 
The city-hall is a large and elegant building, in which the 
courts of law are held. In viewing this structure, I feel some 
objections which require farther observation either to remove 
or confirm. Most of the streets are dirty : in many of them 
sawyers are preparing wood for sale, and all are infested with 
pigs, — circumstances which indicate a lax police. 

' Upon the whole, a walk through New York will disappoint 
an Englishman : there is, on the surface of society, a careless- 
ness, a laziness, an unsocial indifference, which freezes the 
blood and disgusts the judgment. An evening stroll along 
Broadway, when the lamps are alight, will please more than 
one at noon-day. The shops then look rather better, though 
their proprietors, of course, remain the same : their cold indif- 
ference may by themselves be mistaken for independence, but 
no person of thought and consideration will ever concede to 
them that they have selected a wise mode of exhibiting that 
dignified feeling. I disapprove most decidedly of the obse- 
quious servility of many London shopkeepers ; but I am not 
prepared to go the length of those in New York, who stand 
with their hats on, or sit or lie along their counters, smoking 
segars, and spitting in every direction, to a degree offensive to 
any man of decent feelings. 

* The prevalence of Dutch names tells me I am here a 
stranger ; but this impression is often counteracted by viewing 
the immense quantities of British manufactured goods, "with 
which the shops are crowded, as also the number of English 
works which are advertised, and such placards as " Hone's 
Riot in London," " Prince's Russia Oil,'' " Reeves and Wood- 
yer's Colours," and " Day and Martin's Blacking."" ' 

Another traveller observes, ' The situation of New York I 
should reckon very healthy ; yet it is sometimes dreadfully 
afflicted with sickness ; which circumstance, I am rather in- 
7 T 



146 VIEW OF THE 

clined to think, arises from a defect in the police, which does 
not seem to be conducted in a manner becoming the wealth and 
spiendonr of this iinc city. The buildings are, in many places, 
too crowded : many of the wharfs are ill constructed, and some 
of the docks project into the city, especially from the East 
river, to the gi-eat annoyance of the inhabitants. The common 
sewers are incomplete, and there is no supply of fresh water to 
vsweeten and purify the streets; but, beyond all, they have 
adopted the system of sinking necessaries, which accumulates 
such a collection of latent filth, that the steams of it are some- 
tiiTies perce])tible at two miles distance.*" 

The ctnnmerce of New York is of great importance, and is 
in a high state of prosperity and progressive improvement. 
There are frequently about 600 vessels in the harbour at one 
time. The monies collected in New York, for the national 
treasury on the imports and tonnage, have for several years 
amounted to one-fourth of the public revenue. The popula- 
tion at present is estimated at 120,000 ; though in the year 
1697 it only amounted to 4302. The number of deaths is at 
least one ihrrtieiJi, whereas the deaths in London are only 
about a fif'iieili part of its population. It must, however, be 
observed, that suicides are much more numerous in New York 
than in London. 

There are about 4000 negroes and people of colour in New 
York, 1700 of whom are slaves. These people are mostly of 
the methodist persuasion, and have a chapel or two of their 
own, widi prcacliers of their colour ; though some attend other 
places of worship, according to their inclination. 

Albany is the seat of government of the state of New York, 
and is situated on the west side of the Hudson river, at the 
head of tide water, 180 miles fi-om tlie sea. It runs nearly a 
mile along the river, and about half a mile back from it. The 
city is divided into streets, some of which are spacious, but 
others rather narrow and in-egular. They are, however, 
pretty convenient, and there is a line of excellent wharfs and 
warehouses. The houses amount to about 1500, and the in- 
habitants to nearly 12,000. The liouses are mostly built of 
ferick, and many of them are elegant. The state-house stands 



UNITED STATES. 147 

on an elevated situation at the head of State street, and is a 
very handsome building, with most splendid and convenient 
apartments for the legislature to meet in. The old state-house 
is also in State street, and is occupied by the several different 
public offices. The other public buildings are the arsenal, 
powder-house, city library, three banks, ten churches, two 
market-houses, two masonic lodges, a theatre, and Cook's 
reading-room, an institution probably better supplied with 
Mewspapers, and other periodical publications, than any other 
in the United States. 

The city is well supplied with water. There are two excel- 
lent springs three miles to the westward, from whence it is 
conveyed in pipes to every part of the city. Lots in tiie prin- 
cipal streets are as high as in New York, and the rent of 
houses and stores is in proportion. This being the great 
mart, in which the trade of an extensive back country centres, 
it is well supplied with provisions ; but the outlet to the great 
commercial city, New York, is so easy, by the fine river Hud- 
son, that all articles which can be easily shipped are kept pretty 
high. 

The principal manufactures of Albany are those of grain, 
brewing, and distilling. There are no manufactories of cloth 
in the city, but there are several in the neighbourhood, and 
there is a disposition in the citizens to encourage them, thougii 
apparently against their interest, the trade of the city being 
almost wholly commercial. The principal trade is by the 
river, on which is sent down grain and provisions, timber, 
malt liquors, and spirits ; and they receive in return groceries, 
dry goods, hardware, and crockery, to supply a great part of 
the country. American manufactincd glass, howevei', begins 
to make a prominent appearance in the warehouse; and they 
will, no doubt, feel the advantage of other articles of American 
manufacture soon. Albany, from its situation, must be always 
a place of extended commerce. At present it suffers by the 
re-action of an overstrained foreign commerce; but that will 
be but temporary. Internal manufactures and commerce, be- 
ing once organized, will more than compensate for the loss of 
the other. 



148 VIEW OF THE 

The citizens of Albany are very mixed. The original set- 
tlement was by the Dutch, and their descendants form a very 
prominent part of the society. Of Scottish settlers there are a 
great many, and the rest are principally New Englanders. In 
such an assemblage, we may naturally look for industry and 
enterprise, and a general attention to education and the im- 
provement of the mind J all of which are very perceptible in the 
citizens. There are good mechanics in all the different 
branches. The schools are numerous ; the library and read- 
ing-room have been already noticed. Two newspapers are 
published, each twice d. week, which have a pretty extensive 
circulation. That the place is healthy, appears in the counte- 
nances of the ladies, many of whom are handsome, with beau- 
tiful florid complexions. That it is cold in winter is indicated 
by the general use of stoves, and the quantities of fuel that are 
collected for sale. 

Hudson is of modern construction, and consists of one vei*y 
long street. The houses are of wood or brick ; many of them 
buih' with taste, and all spacious and commodious. Shops 
and warehouses are numerous, and there are several large inns. 
It has every appearance of a thriving settlement ; and its si- 
tuation is elevated and advantageous for commerce. There 
are several large brick warehouses near the wharfs for the re- 
ception of goods ; and a great many small vessels sail continu- 
ally upon the river between this town and New York. Ship- 
building is carried on here ; and vessels of 3 or 400 tons come 
uito the harbour. The population of this flourishing place is 
at present estimated at about 5000. 

Skenectadfj is 16 miles north-west of Albany, in Albany 
county, situated on the banks of the Mohawk river. The 
town is compact and regular, built principally of brick, on a 
rich flat of low land, surrounded with hills. The windings of 
the river tlirough the town and the fields, which are often 
overflowed in the spring, afibrd a beautiful prospect about 
harvest time. As it is at the foot of navigation on a long river, 
which passes through a very fertile country, and is the medium 
of all the western trade through the lakes, that comes down 
the Hudson, it must grow rich in proportion as the country 



UNITED STATES. 149 

west of it populates. It at present contains between 6 and 
7000 inhabitants. 
I The other most important towns and villages are Nexvhiirg, 
Poughkeepsie^ Trtyy, Lansingbivrgh, and Watcrfbrd, on the 
I Hudson ; Utica^ Herkimer, and Rome, on the Mohawk ; and 
J Skeneateless, Geneva, Canaiidagua, and Bujf'alo, to the west- 
ward. The houses are generally substantially built, and are a 
good deal similar to those in the New English states. The 
roads, bridges, and canals are numerous, and of great im- 
portance. 

Trade and Resources. — The manufactures of the state are 
considerable and increasing ; particularly the articles of glass, 
ashes, iron ware of various descriptions, leather of all kinds, 
hats, carriages, paper and printing, pottery ware, umbrellas, 
mathematical and musical instruments. From what has been 
said of New York, it will be seen that the commerce of this 
state is very extensive. 

The internal revenue in 1815 amounted to 1,223,231 dol- 
lars, and the value of houses and lands to 273,120,600 dollars ; 
land being valued ut C| dollars per acre. The increase of the 
value of property in this state, in the course of fifteen years, 
has been from 100,000,000 to 270,000,000. 

In 1815, the gi'oss amount of duties on merchandise was 
14,867,311 dollars. The registered tonnage employed in fo- 
reign trade was 180,664, and the tonnage in the coasting trade 
2240. 

Education. — There are many flourishing academies and 
grammar schools, lately established in the state; but many 
parts of the country are either unfurnished with schools, or the 
schools which they liave are kept by low ignorant men. 

King's college, in the city of New York, was principally 
founded by the voluntary contributi(ms of the inhabitants of 
jhe province, assisted by the general assembly, and the corpo- 
ration of Trinity church, in the year 1754, a royal charter be- 
ing tiien obtained, incorporating a luuiiber of gentlemen therein 
mentioned, by the name of "■ The Governors of the College of 
the Province of New York, in the City of New York, in 
America T and granting to them and their successors for ever. 



150 VIEW OF THE 

amongst various other rights and privileges, the power of con- 
ferring all such degrees, as are usually conferred by either of 
the English universities. The building consists of an elegant 
stone edifice, three complete stories high, with four stair-cases, 
twelve apartments in each, a chapel, hall, library, museum, 
anatomical theatre, and a school for experimental philosophy. 
It is situated on a dry gravelly soil, about 150 yards from the 
bank of Hudson's river, which it overlooks; commanding a 
most extensive and beautiful prospect. This college is now 
called CoLUjiBiA college, and, since the revolution, has been 
placed under the superintendence of ^4i trustees. 

There are s-everal academies in the state. One is at Flat- 
bush, in King\s county, on Long island, four miles from 
Brooklyn ferry. It is situated in a pleasant, healthy village. 
The building is large, handsome, and convenient, and is called 
Erasmus hall. I'here is another very flourishing academy at 
East Haujpton, on the east end of Long Island. Besides these, 
the state can boast of several excellent grammar schools. 
There is one at Kingston, in Ulster county ; one at Goshen, 
in the county of Orange ; two at Albany ; one at Skenectady ; 
one at Lansingburgh ; and another at West Chester. There 
are also schools erected in many jiarts of the state, which are 
maintained by the voluntary contributions of the parents. 

Religion. — A late writer thus expresses himself upon this 
interesting topic. ' There is no state religion, and no goAcrn- 
mcnt prosecution for conscience sake. The presbyterian and 
episcopalian, or church of England, sects take the precedence 
in numbers and in respectability. Their ministers receive 
from 52 to 8000 dollars per annum. All churches are well 
filled : they appear the fashionable places for dlsplai} ; and the 
sei-jnons and talents of the minister offer never-ending subjects 
of interest when soc-ial converse has been exhausted. The 
perfect equality of all sects seems to have deadened party fcel- 
in<-' : controversy is but little known. Tlie great proportion of 
attendants at any particular church appear to select it either 
because tliey are acquainted with the preacher, or that it is 
frequentet! b}^ fashionable company, or their great grandmo- 
ther went there before the revolutioUj or because (who-t will 



UNITED STATES. 151 

generally have a greater weight than all these reasons) their 
interest ic'ill he promoted by so doing. 

* Licences are not necessary for either the preacher or place 
of meeting. According to the constitution of the state of New 
York, no minister of the gospel, or priest of any clenon)ination, 
can ever hold any civil or military ofRce or place M'ithin the 
state. In 1806, a law was passed, authorising any religious 
denomination to apj)oint trustees, for the purpose of superin- 
tending the temporal concerns of their respective congregations. 
These trustees become by that act a body corporate, and ca- 
pable of all legal transactions, on behalf of the congregation: 
they are allowed, on the part of the whole, to hold estates, 
which may produce 3000 dollars annually. The episcopalians 
differ, I believe, in nothing from their established brethren in 
England, except that they do not form a part of the state: 
they have tbeii* bishops, S:c. as in Great Britain. Ministers of 
all parties are generally ordained : they are exempt from mili- 
tary service."' 

Government. — The govennncnt of the state is vested in a 
governor, lieutenant-governor, senate, and house of representa- 
tives. The governor and lieutenant-governor are elected for 
three years, the senators for four, and the assembly-men are 
chosen annually. The necessary qualifications for the electors 
are, six months residence in the state previous to the election ; 
the possession of a freehold of 20/. value, or to have rented a 
tenement of the value of 40.?. yearly; and to have been rated 
on the polls, and actually paid taxes to tlie state. 

Islands. — Long island, a part of the state of New York, is 
chiefly occupied by farmers: their populous capital affords a 
ready market ff)r produce. This island in length is 120, and 
in breadth 12 miles. It is divided iiUo counties, two of which 
retain the names of i-oyalty; the first being called King's, and 
the second Queen's county — such invc^terate tyrants are ancient 
customs. The west end has a good soil, and is in a state of 
moderate cultivation : the east has a considerable portion of 
sandy plains. The introduction of gypsum, and otb-er im- 
provements in tiicir mode of agriculture, have much increased 
the annual produce. Widiin the last 14 years, farms have 



152 VIEW OF THE 

risen in value 25 per cent. Land is worth from SI 7s. 6d. to ' 
SSI. 15s. per acre. A choice of farms may now be purchased 
in this island at from 151. 15s. to 22/. 10^. per acre, including 
necessary buildings. Farmers do not live extravagantly : few 
of them have money in reserve. The high price of labour^' 
indifference of the soil, and general want of capital, must cause 
a long continuance of this state of things. The agriculturist, 
who alone can, in this island, entertain rational hopes of profit, 
must have sons that will work, and be himself among the fore- 
most by labouring with their own hands. Their being no tax 
upon horses, their labour is preferred, and mules and asses are 
seldom if ever used. 

This interesting island, which is called the garden of Ame- 
rica, is separated from the city of New York , by East river, 
which, at the ferry, is about one-third wider than the Thames 
at Greenwich. 

Staien islmid lies nine miles south-west of the city of New 
York, and forms Richmond county. It is about 18 miles in 
length, and between six and seven in breadth. The land, in 
general, is hilly and uneven ; but there is some good level 
ground on its southern extremity. 

Yorlh island is 13 miles long, and from one to two miles 
wide. The port and city of New York is situated on its 
southern end, and is closely built from shore to shore. This 
is a most delightful district ; and the scenery, particularly on 
the margin of the East river, is pleasing and diversified. It is 
thickly studded with country seats and gardens ; and the fruit 
is so plentiful, that people are at liberty to pull apples, &c. on 
the road side. As most of the genteel families have country 
retreats, where they reside during the hot or sickly season, 
beautiful and b.andsome seats are rapidly multiplying, and the 
value of property increasing. 

HistorTj. — HudsQ^i river was first discovered by Henry 
Hudson, an Englishman, who sold his clnlm to the Dutch. A 
few years after, several merchants in Holland joined and built 
a fort near xUbany, which tliey called fort Orange. In 1615, 
a fort was built on the site of the present city. But, in 1664, 
the colony was surrendered to colonel NicoUs, who landed at 



UNITED STATES. 15S 

the head of 300 British soldiers. The name of the city was 
now changed from New Amsterdam to New Vork, and fort 
Orange was called Albany, in honour of his royal highness 
James duke of York and Albany. 

In the year 1673, the Dutch retook this settlement ; but it 
was restored at the peace in the following year. The English 
had happily succeeded in retaining the friendship of the six 
Indian tribes inhabiting the territory west of Albany ; but in 
the winter of 1690, the French sent 200 soldiers and a party 
of Indians to attack Skenectady, in order to detach the confe- 
derate tribes from the British interest. For twenty days they 
marched through the snow, carrying their provisions on their 
backs. Such was the extreme distress to which they were re- 
duced, that they had thoughts of surrendering themselves pri- 
soners of war. But their scouts, who were a day or two in the 
village entirely unsuspected, returned with such encouraging 
accounts of the absolute security of the people, that the enemy 
' determined on the attack. They entered, on Saturday night 
about eleven o'clock, at the gates, which were found unshut ; 
and, that every house might be invested at the same time, di- 
vided into small parties of six or seven men. The inhabitants 
were in a profound sleep, and unalarmed, until their doors 
were broke open. Never were people in a more wretched 
consternation. Before they were risen from their beds, the 
enemy entered their houses, and began the perpetration of the 
most inhuman barbarities. No tongue can express the cruel- 
ties that were committed. The whole village was instantly in 
a blaze. Women with child were ripped open, and their in- 
fants cast into the flames, or dashed against the posts of the 
doors. Sixty persons perished in the massacre, and 27 were 
carried into captivity. The rest fled naked towards Albany, 
through a deep snow which fell that very night in a terrible 
storm ; and 25 of the fugitives lost their limbs in the flight, 
through the severity of the frost. The news of this dreadful 
tragedy reached Albany about break of day, and universal 
dread seized the inhabitants of that city, the enemy bein^ re- 
ported to be 1400 strong. A party of horse was immediately 
dispatched to Skenectady, and a few Moliawks then in town, 

U 



154 VIEW OP THE 

fearful of being intercepted, were with difficulty sent to apprise 
their own castles. 

In 1709, this province expended large sums in preparations 
to reduce Canada; but not being properly seconded by the 
]^,nglish government, the enterprise was abandoned. In the 
following year, governor Hunter arrived with 3000 Germans, 
who had fled from a religious persecution, which opened the 
road for emigration from that part of Europe. 

Excepting internal disputes between the episcopalians and 
presbyterians, and struggles against the extension of the French 
interest amongst the Indians, nothing material occurred in this 
state until the revolution. 



NEW JEKSEY. 



Situation and Extent. "VTEW JERSEY is situated between 

89 deg. and 41 deg. 20 min. north 
lat., and 1 deg. 30 min. and 3 deg. 5 min. east long. It is 
bounded on the east by Hudson's river and the sea; on the 
south by the sea; on the west by Delaware bay and river, 
which divide it from the states of Delaware and Pennsylvania ; 
and on the north by a line drawn from the mouth of Mahak- 
kamak river to a point in Hudson's river in lat. 41 deg. Its 
length is 145 miles, and its breadth 6*0. It contains 6500 
square miles, being 4,160,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — The state extends along the sea-coast 
upwards of 100 miles, which, with the exception of the high- 
land of Never Sink, is low and sandy ; but it is more elevated 
and more diversified towards the interior. The northern part 
swells out into high lands, and, towards the extremity of the 
state, there are considerable mountains. The principal rivers 



UNITED STATES. 155 

have been already noticed, and there are no other of any note, 
though small streams are numerous, and supply the state 
abundantly with mill seats. 

The climate is strikingly different in the different sections of 
the state. In the northern part there is clear settled weather. 
and the winters are excessively cold, but the whole is very 
healthy : in the southei-n part, particularly towards the extre- 
mity, the climate approaches to that of the southern states, 
and is subject to very sudden changes. 

About one-fourth part of the state is sandy and barren: 
there are in the southern parts extensive pine barrens, and 
cedar swamps. Large tracts of salt meadow run along Dela- 
ware bay, and the rivers which fall into the Atlantic. Along 
the rivers and small streams in the interior of the state there 
is much good land ; and the hilly district abounds with fertile 
valleys. 

The state abounds with minerals ; producing iron, lead, 
copper, gypsum, coal, and slate ; and there are several useful 
clays and ochres. 

Population. — The population of New Jersey in 1817 
amounted to 345,8!22, Avhich is above 53 persons to a square 
mile. 

Manners, <§-c. — The inhabitants of this state are a collection 
of Low Dutch, Germans, English, Scotch, Irish, and New 
Engianders, or their descendants. National attachments and 
mutual convenience have generally induced these several kinds 
of people to settle together, which has tended to preserve their 
peculiar national manners, customs, and character. Religion 
has also contributed to render this difference more striking : 
the presbyterian, the quaker, the episcopaUan, the baptist, the 
German and Low Dutch Calvinist, the methodist, and the 
Moravian, have each something peculiar in their worship, dis- 
cipline, or dress. Besides, the people in West Jersey trade 
to Philadelphia, and of course imitate their fashions, and im- 
bibe their manners. The inhabitants of East Jersey trade to 
New York, arid regulate their fashions and manners according 
to those of New York: so that the difference in reffardcto 
fashions and manners between East and West Jersey, is nearly 



156 VIEW OF THE 

s& great as between New York and Philadelphia. On the 
■whole, the people of this state are in general sober, frugal, 
and industrious ; though not remarkable for activity and in- 
telhgence. 

Chief Towns. — Trenton is the capital of New Jersey, and 
is situated on the Delaware river, 30 miles from Philadelphia, 
and 66 from New York. It is a handsome little town, con- 
taining about 200 houses. The public buildings are the state- 
house, a court-house, an episcopal church, a presbyterian 
church, a quaker meeting-house, and methodist meeting-house. 
Trenton bridge, which crosses the Delaware, being one of the 
most elegant in the United States, merits a particular descrip- 
tion. It consists of five arches of 194 feet span each, built of 
white pine, and supported on strong stone piers : the whole 
length is 970 feet, the breadth 36. The arches are elevated 
over head by substantial rafters, and the platform, or carriage 
way, is suspended by these arches, and forms a plane the 
whole length of the bridge. Above the top of the arches the 
roof is covered in, so as to setHire the whole froiy the weather ; 
and the carriage way is divided into two sections, each of which 
is appropriated to travellers in one direction. At the entrance, 
passengers are directed to take the road on the right hand. 
Upon the v/hole, this is a very elegant piece of architecture. 
It was commenced in 1804, and is the plan of a mechanic of 
the name of Burr. In the neighbourhood of this state are se- 
veral pleasant seats, finely situated on the banks of the Dela- 
ware, and ornamented with taste and elegance. 

Burlmgton extends three miles along the Delaware, and is 
20 miles above Philadelphia by water, and 17 by land. The 
river is here about a mile wide, and under shelter of Mittinni- 
cunk and Burlington islands, affords a safe and convenient 
harbour. Part of the city is built upon the latter island, 
which is connected by bridges and causeways with the main 
land. The principal streets are spacious and ornamented with 
trees. Here is an excellent jail, a court-house, and two mar- 
ket-houses. This port is well situated for trade; but is too 
near the opulent city of Philadelphia to admit of any consider- 
able increase. 



UNITED STATES. 157 

Perth Amhoy took its name from James Drummond, earl of 
Perth, and Ambo, the Indian word for point ; and stands on 
a neck of land included between llaritan river and Arthur 
KuU sound. Its situation is high and healthy. It lies open 
ito Sandy Hook, and has one of the best harbours on the con- 
itinent. Vessels from sea may enter it in one tide, in almost 
any weather. Great efforts have been made, and legislative 
encouragements offered, to render it a place of trade, but with- 
out success. It was formerly the capital of East Jersey. 

Brunsxinck is an incorporated city, containing about 3000 
inhabitants. The greater part of it is low, and it is not very 
handsome, but seems to be improving. It was originally set- 
tled mostly by Dutch people, and there are three Dutch 
churches. The other public buildings worthy of notice are, 
jthe court-house and academy; wjiich last is said to be a very 
thriving seminary. The lands in the neighbourhood appear 
rough and rocky ; but they raise pretty good crops, particu- 
larly of grass, which has, throughout the whole of this district, 
flourished very much of late, in consequence of the application 
of plaster of Paris. 

Newark is a beautiful town, regularly laid out in broad 
streets, on a fine plain, and contains nearly 2000 inhabitants. 
The public buildings are two places for public worship, a 
court-house, and "academy. Considerable manufactures are 
carried on here, particularly of leather. The inhabitants have 
likewise a pretty extensive inland trade ; and have a bank to 
facilitate their commercial operations. The country is well 
cultivated in the neighbourhood, and Newark is remarkable 
for the goodness of its cyder, of which a large quantity is made 
annually. 

Six miles from Newark is Eli::ahethtozcn^ containing two 
churches and an academy. It is a pretty little place, and the 
'and in its neighbourhood is fertile and Avell cultivated. 

Trade and Resources. — This is neither a manufacturing nor 
» commercial state. Though many attempts have been made 
:0 encourage the trade at Amboy and Biu'lington, yet the 
Tierchants of New York and Philadelphia continue to be the 
factors for New Jersey. The principal articles of manufacture 



158 VIEW OF THE 

are iron, leather, glass, and paper, of which large quantities 
ai'e exported. But the resources of the state consist mostly of 
agricultural pi'oduce ; though the unenterprising habits of the 
fai'mers prevent the adoption of new and useful improvements. 
The produce of the state is M'heat, rye, barley, oats, Indian 
corn, potatoes and other vegetables, and a vast quantity of 
fruit ; and butter and cheese are made in great quantities, for 
the supply of the New York and Philadelphia markets. 

The value of houses and lands, by tlie returns of the as- 
sessors in 1815, was 98,612,083 dollars ; the average value of 
land being 35 dollars per acre. The internal revenue 
amounted to 211,705 dollars; the gross amount of duties 
upon merchandise was only 17,666 dollars, the tonnage em- 
ployed in foreign trade 2465, and in the coasting trade 2668. 
Education. — The oeneral disseminationof knowledoe through 
the state has not been attended to according to its importance, 
There are numerous seminaries for the higher bi'anches of li- 
terature ; but the state seems defective in common schools. 

Religion. — The presbyterians, quakers, and baptists, are 
very numerous in this state. There are also many that belong 
to the episcopalian, Moravian, methodist, and Dutch reformed 
chiu'ches. But, according to the law, none are compelled to 
attend or support any worship contrary to their own judgment: 

Government. — The state is divided into 13 counties and 
100 townships. The government is vested in a governor, le- 
gislative council, and general assembly. The council consists 
of one member, and the assembly of three members, from 
each county, ciiosen annually by the }X?ople. The governor 
is chosen annually by the council and assembly. 1'he qualifi- 
cation for a voter is 50/. The state is pros})enng, and in- 
creasinp; in population and wealth. 

History. — The lirst settlers of New Jersey were a number 
of Dutch emigrants from New York, who came over between 
the years 1014 and 1620, and settled in the county of Bergen. 
Next after these, in 1627, came over a colony of Swedes and 
Fins, and settled on the river Delav.'are. The Dutch and 
Swedes, though not in harmony with each other, kept posses- 
sion of the country many years. 



.1 



UNITED STATES. 159 

In March, 1634, Charles II. granted all the territory, called 
by the Dutch New Netherlands, to his brother the duke of 
York, who, in 1674, had this grant confirmed by a new patent. 
In the same year, New Jersey was divided : West Jersey was 
granted to the assigns of lord Berkeley, and East Jersey to Sir 
G. Carteret. In the following year, a factory was settled at 
Salem in West Jersey, and these were the first Enalish settlers 
in AVest Jersey. In 1682, East Jersey was sold to 24 pro- 
prietors ; which division caused so much confusion, that the 
proprietors surrendered the government to the crown in 1702, 
in which state it continued till the revolution. 



PENNSYLVANIA. 



Situation and Extent. HP HIS fine state is situated between 

39 deg. 43 min. and 42 deg. north 
lat., and 2 deg. 20 min. east, and 3 deg. 30 min. west long. 
It is bounded on the east by Delaware river ; on the north by 
the parallel of 42 deg. north lat., which divides it from the 
state of New York ; on the south by the parallel of 39 deg. 
43 min. 18 sec. north lat., which divides it from the states of 
Delawai'e, Maryland, and Virginia ; and on the west by a me- 
ridian line, drawn from the termination of 5 degrees of longi- 
tude, from a point on Delaware rivei', near Wilmington, in the 
parallel of 39 deg. 43 min. 18 sec, to intersect the parallel of 
42 deg. This line divides the state from a part of Virginia, 
the Western Territory (so called), and from a tract of land, 
20 miles square, which was confirmed to Connecticut by con- 
gress. The north-west corner of Pennsylvania extends about 
one mile and a half into lake Erie, and is about 20 miles west 
of the old French fort at Presque isle. This state is 320 miles 



160 VIEW OF THE 

long from east to west, and 162 miles broad ; and contains 
48,700 square miles, being 31,168,000 acres. 

Natural Geogra/phy. — The face of the country is remarka- 
bly diversified. The south-east part, to the distance of about 
60 or 70 miles from Philadelphia, is an undulating country, 
swelling in some places into considerable hills ; but it is not 
mountainous. The mountainous region then commences, and 
extends across the country about 120 miles. The mountains 
are generally in long chains, running north-east and south-west. 
Between the chains, the country is rough and hilly ; but there 
are many fine vallies, and the whole abounds with picturesque 
scenery. To the north and west of the mountains, the coun- 
try is elevated, abounding with hills, valleys, and rich scenery, 
which continue about 120 miles, to the extremity of the state. 

The country is remarkably well watered. Lake Erie is si- 
tuated on the north-west, and the Delaware bay on the south- 
east, by both of which there ai'e fine outlets, the one affording 
direct and speedy communication with the Atlantic ocean, the 
other communicating with it by the more advantageous course 
of the river St. Lawrence ; while it is a link in the chain of 
an inland navigation, extending through the lakes upwards of 
a thousand miles. To the south-west the state communicates 
with the Ohio, having an outlet, through the Mississippi, to 
the gulf of Mexico ; and from the middle there is an outlet 
through the Susquehannah to the Chesapeake bay. 

The Delaware is the principal river of this state. From the 
mouth of Delaware bay, at cape Henlopen, to Philadelphia, is 
reckoned 118 miles. So far there is a sufficient depth of water 
for a 71* gun ship. From Philadelphia to Trenton falls is 35 
miles. This is the head of sloop navigation. The river is 
navigable, for boats that carry eight or nine tons, 40 miles 
further, and for Indian canoes, except several* small falls <x 
portages, 150 miles. At Easton it receives the Lehigh from 
the west, which is navigable tJO miles. The tide sets up as 
high as Trenton falls, and at Philadelphia rises generally 
about six miles. A north-east and east wind raises it higher. 
On cape Henlopen stands the light-house, with a few other 
houses. Opposite the light-house, on the Jersey shore, 12 



UNITED STATES. 161 

miles, is cape May. Between these capes is the entrance into 
Delaware bay. The entrance into the river is 20 miles further 
up, at Bombay Hook, where the river is four or five miles 
wide. From Bombay Hook to Reedy island is 20 miles. 
This island is the rendezvous of outward bound ships in au- 
tumn and spring, waiting for a favourable wind. This river 
is generally frozen one or two months in the year so as to pre- 
vent navigation. At Philadelphia it is about a mile broad. 
The banks are level and covered with wood ; and the lands 
rise to a considerable height at a distance, affording in some 
places pretty good views. 

The Schuylkill rises north-west of the Kittatinny mountains, 
through which it passes into a fine champaign country, and 
runs, from its source, upwards of 120 miles in a south-east di- 
rection, and falls into the Delaw^are three miles below Phila- 
delphia. It is navigable from above Reading, 85 or 90 miles, 
to its mouth. There are three floating; brido-es thrown across 
it, made of logs fastened together, and lying upon the water. 

The Lehigh rises among the mountains, between the Dela- 
ware and Susquehannah, and running a very crooked passage, 
emerges from the mountains about 50 miles from its source, 
and from thence runs through a fine country 30 miles, during 
which it is navigable to Easton, where it falls into the Delaware, 

The Susquehannah is a noble river, and appears on the 
map like a large crooked tree, with numerous branches. The 
head waters of the eastern branch are numerous, and rise in 
the state of New York, not far from the waters of the Mo- 
hawk river. Passing into the state of Pennsylvania, it makes 
a remarkable bend, called appropriately the Big Bend; from 
thence it makes a stretch into New York, and passing to the 
westward, about 40 miles, turns again to the southward, and 
passes into the state of Pennsylvania, where it forms a junction 
with the Tioga river at Tioga point. It then runs a south- 
east course, about 70 miles ; when making a sudden bend, at 
a right angle, it runs a south-west course, about 80 miles, and 
unites with the western branch at Northumberland. The 
river is now nearly half a mile broad, and Hows through the 
mountains, nearly a south course of 40 miles, to where it re- 

X 



162 VIEW OF THE 

ceiyes the Junita river. From thence it makes a considerable 
bend to the eastward, and running about 10 miles, it emerges 
from the mountains above Harrisburg ; and keeps a south-east 
course about 80 miles, when it falls into the Chesapeake bay. 

The Tioga river has its head waters partly in Pennsylvania, 
and partly in New York, where some of the streams approach 
within a few miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence. These 
all unite in New York state, towards the Painted Post, and 
run a south-east course of nearly 40 miles^ to the junction 
with the Susquehannah. 

The western branch of the Susquehannah is formed by 
many streams, beyond the Alleghany mountains, some of them 
approaching within a few miles of the waters of the St. Law- 
rence, and others within a few miles of the waters of the Ohio 
and IMississippi, and runs a very circuitous course, upwards of 
200 miles, principally among the mountains, to its junction 
with the east branch. 

The Junita river rises on the Alleghany mountains, near 
the head waters of the Conemaugh, a branch of the Ohio, and 
passing through the mountains to the eastward, by a very 
serpentine course, it falls into the Susquehannah as aforesaid, 
its length being nearly 200 miles. 

The length of the Susquehannah, from the Chesapeake bay 
to the head of the eastern branch, is upwards of 450 miles; 
and the whole river, including its branches, waters a country 
nearly 200 miles square. It is navigable for large vessels only 
a few miles, and there are many islands, rocks, and falls, which 
obstruct the navigation for boats ; but it is presumed that 
these can be removed, and that, by the aid of some locks and 
canals, it can be rendered navigable, almost to the source of 
the eastern branch. The western branch is navigable for boats 
nearly 150 miles, and the Junita river neai-ly 120. From this 
short account, the importance of improving the navigation of 
this fine river will be readily inferred. 

The Alleghany river rises on the highest land in the state, 
to the westwai'd of the mountains, within a few miles of the 
head waters of the Genesee river, and the western branch of 
the Susquehannah. It is here called Oswaya creek, and runs 



UNITED STATES. * 163 

a north-west course into the state of New York, and, passing 
again into the state of Pennsylvania, it I'eceives the waters of 
Conewongo creek and Chataughque lake. From thence it 
runs a winding course, but generally south-west, to Franklin, 
where it receives the waters of French creek. From thence it 
runs a circuitous course about 100 niiles^ receiving in its pro- 
gress many tributary sti'eams, particularly Toby"'s creek and 
Kishkemanetas rivers, and at Pittsburg forms a junction with 
the Monongahela, which together constitute the Ohio. 

The Alleghany is a navigable river, and the navigation is 
continued through French creek to Waterford, from whence 
there is a portage of only 14 miles to lake Erie. The naviga- 
tion is extended into the country 20 or 25 miles, by the Kish- 
kemanetas river. 

The Monongahela rises in Virginia, near the Laurel moun- 
tains, and, running by a meandering course about 70 miles, 
passes into this state ; soon after which it receives the waters 
of Cheat river. From thence it continues, by a serpentine 
course, but nearly in a northern direction, about 60 miles, 
where it forms a junction with Yoxhiogeni, and thence runs 
north-west about 14 miles to Pittsburo;, It is navigable in 
large boats to Brownsville and Morgantown, ICO miles from 
its mouth ; and from thence by small boats 40 miles farther. 
The western branch is also navioable in high water. 

The Yoxhiogeni rises in Maryland, and runs a course east 
of north, about 40 miles before it passes into this state. From 
thence it runs a north-west course, and, passing the Laurel 
hill and Chesnut ridge, forms the junction Avith the Mononga- 
hela above mentioned ; its whole length being about 100 miles. 
The soil to the east of the mountains is generally good, and 
a considerable part of it is bedded on limestone. Among the 
mountains the land is rough, and much of it poor ; but there 
are a great many rich and fertile valleys, To the west of the 
mountains the soil is generally excellent. 

The climate is very various. On the east side of the Alle- 
ghany mountains it is pretty similar to Jersey, already de- 
scribed. It is, in common with the other countries east of the 
mountains, subject to great and sudden changes; but it is 



164 VIEW OF THE 

ponsidered more settled than immediately on the sea-board, 
and is perfectly healthy. The winter commences about the 
20th of December, and the spring sets in about two weeks 
earlier than at New York, Among the mountains there is a 
eharp atmosphere, with a clear, settled sky. There is frost 
almost every month in the year in some places; and the ex- 
tremes of heat and cold are considerable. The winters may 
be reckoned a month longer than to the eastward. The whole 
region is healthy. — The country beyond the mountains has a 
temperate climate, with a considerable portion of cloudy wea- 
ther; and the winters are more humid and mild than on the 
Atlantic. 

The agriculture of the state has improved rapidly, and is in 
an advanced state. The staple article is wheat, of which the 
quantity manufactured into flour annually is immense. It is 
reckoned the best in the United States, and surpassed by none 
in the world. The mountainous district is pretty much ap- 
plied to raising stock. The breed of horses is reckoned the 
best in the United States. Sheep have of late greatly in- 
creased, and thrive remarkably well. All the grains, grasses, 
and roots common to the other states thrive here. The stock 
of fruit, particularly peaches, is excellent ; and some progress 
has of late been made in the cultivation of the vine. 

This state is well supplied with iron ore ; and coal abounds 
in many places, particularly in the western country. Slate is 
found in several places ; and marble and freestone, of an ex- 
cellent quality, are found in great abundance. Limestone is 
also in great plenty; and some copper and lead have been 
found, but not in sufficient quantity to be wrought. There 
are many mineral springs in the state. 

Population. — The population of this state in 1817 amounted 
to 986,494, which is above 20 persons to a square mile. 

Manners^ 8fc. — A late writer, in speaking of the manners of 
the citizens of Philadelphia, says, ' The habits of the people 
are marked by caution and secresy. Although the eyes and 
ears of a stranger are not insulted in the openness of noon-day 
with evidence of hardened profligacy, I have, nevertheless, 
reason to believe in its existence to a very great extent ; though 



UNITED STATE6. 165 

perhaps there is no Philadelphia parent would say to me what 
a respectable inhabitant of New York did : " There is not a 
father in this city but who is sorry that he has got a son.'' 

' There is, of course, here no rank of society correspondent 
to the peerage, or the '^ haut-ton,'''' in England; but there are 
many who keep carriages, have truly elegant houses, and su- 
perb furniture. These are called of the "first class;" and 
although they have not the pomp or the titles, they have the 
pride of an aristocracy. The small and middling tradesmen 
do not make much exertion, live easily, save no money, and 
appear to care nothing about either the present or future. If 
they find business getting bad, they do, what is called, " sell 
out," and pack up for the " back country." The labourer and 
mechanic are independent, not in purse, but in condition. 
Neither they nor their master conceive that any obligation is 
conferred by employing them. They live well, and may al- 
ways have a dollar in tlieir pockets. Men are here indepen- 
dent of each other : this will shew itself even in half an hour's 
walk through the streets of Philadelphia. 

' The dress of the gentlemen is copied from the fashions of 
England ; that of the ladies from France, — who very modestly 
believe, and indeed have no hesitation in declaring, that they 
combine the excellences of the French and the English charac- 
ter, without possessing the defects of either. For myself, I 
can trace no resemblance to the former, unless it consist in kid 
gloves and artificial flowers; nor to the latter, except in a 
fondness for lady Morgan's writings, and an admiration of 
lord Wellington's achievements. Could American ladies be 
content to despise instead of copying the vanity of their coun- 
trymen, and take a few practical lessons from the English 
female in the management of domestic concerns, and the culti- 
vation of their minds, then indeed their fine forms might be- 
come peculiarly interesting, at least to the man of sense.' 

About one-third of the inhabitants are friends and episcopa- 
lians, chiefly of English extraction. The Irish are mostly 
presbyterians, and are very numerous : they inhabit the west- 
ern and frontier counties. The Germans compose at least 
one-fourth of the whole population of the state : they are ge- 



166 VIEW OF THE 

nerally employed in agriculture, and are distinguished for in- 
dustry and frugality ; but the poorer class are extremely 
ignorant and superstitious. They mostly reside in the neigh- 
bourhood of Philadelphia. 

Mr. Fearon says he ' passed through an extensive, fertile, 
well-cultivated, and beautiful tract of land, called the "Great 
Valley." Farms in this district are chiefly owned by Dutch 
and Germans, and their descendants. They consist of from 
50 to 200 acres, each acre worth 200 dollars (45/.), and are 
cheaper at that price than the 50 cent and dollar and half 
lands, which encumber other parts of the eastern states. The 
substantial barns, fine private dwellings, excellent breed and 
condition of live stock, and superior cultivation of the "Great 
Valley," place it decidedl}-^ in advance of the neighbouring 
lands, and put it fairly in competition with Old England. 
The proprietors are wealthy. They have the reputation of 
being practical opponents of the desolating system of paper 
money, by keeping their hard cash safely locked up in their 
" old count rT/''' boxes. Be this as it may, their property, un- 
like that of their fellow citizens on the sea-side, has not va- 
nished into air by the late mighty political changes. They 
have been blessed by heaven with excellent land and good 
markets ; and although their progress in the acquirement of 
" this world's goods'" has not been like the rise of Jonah's 
gourd, neither has it shared the fate of that ti'ansitory plant.' 

Chief Toxcns. — Philadelphm is situated between the Dela- 
ware and Schuylkill rivers, about four miles above their junc- 
tion. It is laid out on an elegant plan, with streets crossing 
one anolher at right angles, and extends between the two 
rivers, being upwards of two miles in length from east to west, 
and a little more than one mile in breadth. There are large 
suburbs to the north and south, on the Delaware river, called 
the Northern Liberties, Kensington, and Southwark; and 
these extend upwards of a mile to the north, and half a mile 
south of the city, malung the extreme length on the Delaware 
river nearly three miles. But the city is closely built to the 
westward only about a mile ; the buildings on the remaining 
part, towards the Schuylkill, being very thinly scattered. It 



UNITED STATES. 16T 

is, however, rapidly filling up in that direction. High or 
Market street is about 100 feet broad, and running the whole 
length of the city, is terminated by the Schuylkill bridge to 
the west. A street of equal breadth, called Broad street, 
crosses it in the middle, where there is a large area, called 
Centre square, on which the water works are built. The 
streets running parallel to High street are named after various 
trees said to have been found on the ground on which they are 
laid out. To the north are Mulberry, Sassafras, and Vine; 
to the south, Chesnut, Walnut, Locust, Spruce, Pine, and 
Cedar. The cross streets are numbered according to situation 
from the rivers, thus, Front, Second, Third, and so on, to 
Thirteenth, on the Delawai'c side ; and from Front to Eighth, 
on the Schuylkill side. Mulberry street is 60 feet wide, and 
all the other streets are 50. It was the intention of the bene- 
volent projector of the city that Front street, on the Delaware, 
should have been the eastern boundary, and that the space 
between that and the river should have been converted into 
public ground, useful and ornamental to the city ; but this 
elegant plan has given way to the avidity for commercial gain 
and this spot is now thickly built up with wharfs, warehouses, 
and dwelling houses ; which form a street on the low ground 
along the margin of the river, called Water street. In the 
original plan there were a great number of public squares, but 
several of them have also been infringed upon, though there 
are still many left, which are very ornamental to the city. 

An English writer observes that the city, on approaching it 
by water, looks extremely well ; which impression is, however, 
dissipated on coming nearer, ' as nothing is visible from the 
water but confused heaps of wooden storehouses, crowded 
upon each other, the chief of which are built upon platforms 
of artificial ground, and wharfs which project a considerable 
way into the river. The wharfs are of a rectangular form, 
and built of wood ; they jut out in every direction, and are 
well adapted for the accommodation of shipping, tlie largest 
merchant vessels being able to lie close alongside them. Be- 
hind these wharfs, and parallel to tiie river, runs Water street. 
This is the first street which you usually enter after landing, 



168 VIEW OF THE 

and it does not serve to give a stranger a very favourable opi» 
nion either of the neatness or commodiousness of the public 
ways of Philadelphia. It is no more than 30 feet wide ; and 
immediately behind the houses, which stand on the side far- 
thest from the water, a high bank, supposed to be the old bank 
of the river, rises, which renders the air very confined. Added 
to this, such stenches at times prevail in it, owing in part to 
the quantity of filth and dirt that is suffered to remain on the 
pavement, and in part to what is deposited in waste houses, of 
which there are several in the street, that it is really dreadful 
to pass through it. It was here that the malignant yellow 
fever broke out in the year 1793, which made such terrible 
ravages ; and in the summer season, in general, the street is 
found extremely unhealthy.' 

The city is composed almost wholly of brick houses, covered 
with slate or shingles ; and they are generally ornamented with 
marble steps, with soles and lintels for the doors and windows ; 
which form an elegant contrast with the brick, and add much 
to the beauty of the buildings. Some of the public buildings 
are wholly composed of marble, and others are much orna- 
mented with it, which gives the city an elegant and even mag- 
nificent appearance. 

The public buildings are very numerous. The bare men- 
tion of a few of them will be sufficient to convey an idea of the 
importance of the city. The state-house, with the court-, 
houses and philosophical hall adjoining, the dispensary, alms- 
house, hospital, jail, carpenter's hall, college, academy, Hbrary, 
two theatres, four banks, five quaker meeting-houses, six pres- 
byterian churches, three episcopal churches, four Roman ca- 
tholic churches, three methodist churches, and one each for 
German Calvinists, German Lutherans, Swedish Lutherans, 
Moravians, baptists, unitarians, Jev/s, and universalists. 

The state-house is remarkable as being the place from 
whence the independence of the United States was first pro- 
claimed ; and the legislature of the United States held their 
meetings in the adjoining buildings, while Philadelphia was 
the seat of the general government. When the legislature of 
Pennsylvania continued at Philadelphia, they held their meet- 



UNITED STATES. 169 

ings in the state-house ; but the seat of government has been 
removed to Lancaster, and that building now contains Peale's 
museum. 

There are three market-houses in the city, the principal of 
which is in High street. It is a very handsome building, 
about a quarter of a mile in length, and is well supplied with 
provisions. The price of provisions is somewhat cheaper than 
in New York. Beef, mutton, and veal, may be quoted at 
from 6 to 8 cents per pound ; and, generally speaking, all 
other articles of domestic production may be quoted as one- 
fifth cheaper than in the latter city. 

The markets are large and well supplied : the chief is in 
Market street. The time of sale is from daylight to two 
©""clock from the 1st of April to the 1st of September, and 
from daylight to three o'clock the remainder of the year. No 
butchers are allowed to kill in the city, nor are live cattle to 
be driven to the city markets. 

The water-works of this city are excellent. The building 
which contains the reservoir is in the Centre square, being the 
most elevated ground in the city. It occupies a square of 60 
feet ; from the middle there is a circular tower, 40 feet in dia- 
meter, and 60 feet high, which contains the reservoir; and 
this tower is terminated by a dome, which gives it a very 
handsome appearance. The water is conveyed to this building 
from the Schuylkill, a distance of nearly a niile, through a cir- 
cular brick tunnel, of six feet diameter, having a fall of six 
inches towards the Schuylkill. The water is received from 
the Schuylkill into a substantial basin and canal, and from 
thence is raised by a steam engine to the level of the aqueduct, 
which conveys it to the Centre square. It is there received 
into another basin, and thence, by another steam engine, is 
elevated to the circular tower, from whence it issues tlirough 
wooden pipes, in all directions, to supply the city. 

The whole expence of the works was about 150,000 doUarSi 
(.'}3,750/. sterling.) The work was undertaken by the corpo- 
ration, who raised the funds partly by a tax, qnd partly by 
loan, allowing the subscribers to the loan six per cent, interest 
8 Y 



170 VIEW OF THE 

for their money, and the use of the water free for three years, 
for every 100 dollars subscribed. 

The city is supplied with water by contract, and the con- 
tractor is obliged to supply three millions of gallons per day, 
if required. Tlie annual expence is six thousand dollars for 
one million of gallons per day ; and for any additional quantity, 
up to two millions, the expence is at the rate of half that sum 
The engine is 40 horse power, and can raise, if necessary, four 
millions and a half of gallons per day ; so that the supply 
must be abundant for every purpose. 

The water is soft and good ; but it is not filtered, and is, of 
course, sometimes muddy, though never so much so as to ren- 
der it unfit for use ; and it is always wholesome. It is of great 
importance to these works that they are the property of the 
public, and not subject to individual speculation, in consequence 
of which the supply is liberal, and there are foimtains in every, 
street, to which the whole public liave access. The water can 
be used for watering the streets, or extinguishing fires, as often 
as may be necessary ; while every householder, by paying a 
reasonable compensation, can have a hydrant in any part of 
his premises that he pleases, even to the attic story. In short, 
this water is a great luxury, and is of incalculable advantage 
to the health, as it certainly is to the convenience and comfort 
of the community. 

The supply of cities with water is a subject of great im- 
portance ; and it is to be hoped that the inhabitant* of other 
places in the United States will profit by the laudable example 
set them bv the citizens of Philadelphia, and the happy effects 
M'hich have resulted from it. The power of the steam engine, 
properly applied, can send water to any city, and cities are 
generally sufficiently opulent to bear the expence. 

The Philadklphian hospital, for its airiness, for its con- 
venient accommodation for the sick and infirm, and for the 
neatness exhibited throughout every part of it, cannot be sur- 
passed by any institution of the kind in the world. The plan 
of the building is in the form of the letter H. It is two stories 
high, and underneath the whole are cells for lunatics. Per- 



UNITED STATES. 171 

sons labouring under any disorder of body or mind are received 
into this hospital, excepting such as have diseases that are 
contagious, and of a malignant nature ; such patients, how- 
ever, have the advice of the attending physicians gratis, and 
are supplied with medicine from the hospital dispensary. The 
hospital stands within the limits of the city, but it is more than 
a quarter of a mile removed from any of the other buildings. 
There are spacious Avalks within the inclosure for such of the 
patients as ai'e in a state of convalescence. 

The Betterixg house, which is under the care of the 
overseers of the poor, stands in the same neighbourhood, 
somewhat farther removed from the houses of the city. It is 
a spacious building of brick, with extensive walks and gardens. 
The poor of the city and neighbourhood are here furnished 
with employment, and comfortably lodged and dieted. Du- 
ring the severity of the winter season, many aged and reduced 
persons seek refuge in this place, and leave it again on the re- 
turn of spring. Whilst they stay there, they are under very 
little restraint, and go in and out when thev please : they 
must, however, behave orderly. 

The poor-laws are administered by sixteen citizens, who are 
chosen annually by the corporation, to superintend the provi- 
sion for the poor. They are empowered, w ith the approbation 
of four aldermen and two justices, to levy an assessment not 
exceeding, at any one time, 100 cents (4*. Qd.) on 100 dollars 
(22/. 10.9.), or one per cent. ; nor more than three dollars per 
head, on every free man not otherwise rated. The average 
annual number of paupers supported in alms-houses of this 
city is 1600 ; the expence of keeping them 70,000 dollars a 
year; the produce of the poor-tax for the city and county of 
Philadelphia 100,000 dollars. 

The jail is a spacious building of common stone, 100 feet in 
front. It is fitted up with solitaxy cells, on the new plan, and 
the apartments are all arched, to prevent the communication 
of fire. Behind the building are extensive yards, which are 
secured by lofty walls. This prison is well regulated. Its 
object is to receive the vicious, and, if possible, to reclaim tlnim 
to virtue; and is an admirable contrast to the sanguiiiavv pu- 



m VIEW OF THE 

nlshments of old governments, who, for even pecuniary of- 
fences, send them off to the other world to be reclaimed there. 
This institution does not admit offenders till after conviction, 
when they are received from the different parts of the state. 
It is hence called the State-prison. When a criminal is re- 
ceived, his name is put upon the record, or, to use a commer- 
cial idea, he becomes a partner in the concern, and an account 
is accordingly raised for him in the books. Inquiry is then 
made what he can do ; if he can work at any trade, he is taken 
to the apartment where that branch is carried on, and has his 
task assigned him. If he can work at no ti'ade, he is sent to 
saw marble. As a stimulus to industry, the convicts get credit 
in the books for the proceeds of their labour, and are debited 
with the expence of their board and clothing, which, liowever, 
is not very expensive, as every thing is conducted upon an 
economical plan ; and when they are released, should their 
earnings be more than the expence of maintenance, the balance 
is paid to them. 

Almost every trade is carried on in the prison ; and the in- 
stitution is so organized that every necessary of life is attended 
to by the convicts themselves : baking, cooking, scrubbing the 
rooms, and so on; and every thing is kept remarkably clean. 
The food is wholesome and nutritive, consisting of Indian 
meal, bread, and meat. The drink is molasses and water; 
and no spirituous liquors are admitted within the walls of the 
prison. 

There is a separate apartment for the reception of female 
convicts, where the various parts of female labour are carried 
on, and it is otherwise under the same system of management 
as that for the males. 

This benevolent institution is inspected twice every week by 
twelve persons appointed for that purpose, who are chosen 
annually from amongst the citizens of Philadelphia. Nor is it 
a difficult matter to procure these men, who readily and vo- 
luntarily take it upon them to go through the troublesome 
functions of the office without any fee or emolument whatever. 
They divide themselves into committees ; each of these takes 
it in turn, for a stated period, to visit every part of the prison ; 



UNITED STATES. 173 

and a report Is made to the inspectors at large, who meet toge- 
ther at times regularly appointed. From the report of the 
committee an opinion is formed by the inspectors, who, with 
the consent of the judges, regulate the treatment of each indi- 
vidual prisoner during his confinement. This is varied accord- 
ing to his crime, and according to his subsequent repentance. 

' The keeper,' says a late traveller, ' accompanied me into 
every apartment, giving, as we proceeded, the most full expla- 
nations. The scene was novel, and I had almost said delight- 
ful ; but a recollection that I was viewing the consequences of 
vicious pursuits, checks the expression, and draws a tear for 
the weakness of humanity : yet I could not but be pleased, 
and highly so, on drawing a comparison between what I saw 
here, and what I have witnessed in the London prisons. Here, 
instead of the prisoners passing their time in idleness, or in low 
debaucherv and gaming, all was sobriety, life, and activity. A 
complete manufacturing town was in fact collected within the 
narrow precincts of these otherwise gloomy walls. The open 
court was occupied by stone-cutters, chiefly negroes. It would 
appear, on first seeing this department only, that these were 
either more vicious, or more hardly dealt with in the courts of 
law, than their white countrymen. IJut the true reason of 
their numbers in the yard is, that few of them being mechanics, 
they are set to labour upon those things for which they are 
fitted, and which they can undertake with little previous in- 
struction. The rooms in which the mechanic arts are carried 
on have a very great proportion of whites, so that crime would 
by no means seem to be monopolized by our darker brethren. 
The produce of the labour of prisoners nearly supports the 
whole of this extensive establishment. Some have earned a 
sufficiency by their own work to enable them to commence 
business on the expiration of their term of confinement. Those 
who conduct themselves with industry and proprietv receive a 
remission of part of their sentence. Several have become ho- 
nest and useful members of society. When the jailor spoke to 
the prisoners, they addressed him with confidence, but with 
proper respect. He is a plain intelligent man, llberallv, though 
not profuselv paid for his services. To have ofl'ered him mo- 



174 VIEW OF THE 

ney for his trouble, would, I am sure, have been considered an 
insult. What a contrast does such a man afford to our prison- 
keepers, the majority of whom ai'e perhaps greater criminals 
than those over whom they tyrannize. One fact, in connection 
with the prison, I have omitted to mention ; and as it is a 
characteristic trait of national character, it ought to be record- 
ed — white criminals will not eat with the negroes, the latter 
therefore have a separate table ! ! ! 

' The medical reputation of the gentlemen connected with 
this establishment would be highly estimated in the first Eu- 
ropean cities.** 

The library, founded by Franklin about the year 1731, now 
contains more than 14,000 volumes in all the various branches 
of literature, a philosophical apparatus, and a good beginning 
towards a collection of natural and artificial curiosities, besides 
landed property of considerable value. The building is ele- 
gant and commodious, and has a statue of Franklin in front, 
the donation of the late Mr. Bingham. The library is divided 
into shares of 40 dollars each ; but the number is unlimited. 
The subscribers are at present upwards of 500. Besides the 
purchase of the share, each subscriber pays two dollars annu- 
ally, to the support of the institution. 

The library is open every day, except Sunday, from two 
©""clock to sunset, and the subscribers may either read in the 
library, or be accommodated with books to read in their houses. 
The rule relative to strangers and non-subscribers is very libe- 
ral. They may have the use of the books in the library, while 
it is open, free of expence, or, on depositing the value, may 
I)orrow books and peruse them at home, on paying a small 
sum for the use of them. 

Pcale's museum contains an extensive collection of the cu- 
riosities usual in such establishments, divided into three de- 
partments. The mammoth skeleton complete is a most 
tremendous object. There are several quait bottles filled 
with ashes of the paper called ' Continental money.' This 
was the circulating medium of the revolution, and by the 
means of which they carried on that glorious struggle. Here 
is Talleyrand's oath of allegiance to the United States in his 



UNITED STATES. 175 

own hand writing ! a cake of portable soup, which was sent 
from England in 1775, for the use of the British army ! 
Penn's curtains ; and a scrap of poetry called ' The Cow 
Chase,"' in the hand writing of the gallant and interesting An- 
dre, written a few years before his execution. The portraits 
in this establishment are very numerous, including those of 
Americans of great, down to those of very limited celebrity ; 
also, the likenesses of Paine, Arthur O'Conner, and Dr. 
Priestley. The style of their execution is but little creditable 
to the talents of the artist (Mr. Peale), and would seem to be 
below the standard of his ability, if we judge at least from the 
specimen which he has given in a fine portrait of Napoleon, 
after David ; where, by the Avay, he has committed the error 
of substituting an American horse, marked by the very long 
shaggy hair near the hoofs, by which they are distinguished. 
The painting of the Anaconda, which was exhibited in Spring 
Gardens, is now here, at the house of Mr. Earl. It is cer- 
tainly a first-rate production. — Mr. Sully"'s collection of paint- 
ings is small, but select. Tiiey are chiefly of his own execution. 
— The Academy of Fine Arts is a highly respectable institu- 
tion, which, without the pretence and puff of its sister esta- 
blishment in New York, possesses a most decided sviperiority. 
There are numerous excellent paintings, and a hall of statuary, 
in Avhich are some line specimens of Venus, the Gladiator, 
Apollo, &c. 

This city is under great obligations to the quakers^ ^vho 
have given a tone to the manners of the people, different from 
what is to be found in most other places of equal extent. They 
are industrious and sober ; and, though sufficiently jommer- 
cial, they do not conduct their business in the saipe dafiliing 
style which is done by some commercial cities; out confine 
themselves within bounds, and secui*e what they gain. Edu- 
cation is on an excellent footing : besides the la)^er seminaries, 
there are numerous academies and schools thi"oughout the city. 
The arts and sciences have been long cultivated. A Philoso- 
phical Society was established in the year 17C9, and they have 
published several volumes of their transactions. The other 
societies of greatest importance are, the College of Physicians, 



176 VIBW OF THE 

instituted for the purpose of promoting medical, anatomical, 
and chemical knowledge; the Pennsylvanian Society for pro- 
moting the Abolition of Slavery, and the Relief of free Negroes 
unlawfully held in Bondage ; the Pennsylvania Academy of 
Fine Arts; the Agricultural Society; Premium Society; a 
Society for alleviating the Miseries of public Prisons; Hu- 
mane Society ; Marine Benevolent Society ; St. Andrew's So- 
ciety ; Scots Thistle Society ; St. Patrick's Society ; Hibernian 
Society ; St. George's Society ; Welsh Society ; French Be- 
nevolent Society ; German Society. The Grand Lodge of 
Pennsylvania is established here, and there are 15 or 16 lodges 
of free-masons 

The police of the city is said to be better regulated than that 
of any other on the continent. It appears to be much better 
than New York. There are public scavengers, who clean the 
streets at stated times, and tlie side pavements are generally 
washed every morning. These are broad, and generally well 
paved with brick ; and, the streets being lined with rows of 
trees, a vvalk through the city in a summer morning is delight- 
ful. The city is elevated 50 or CO feet above the river, in 
consequence of which there is an ample descent for the water ; 
aiid the streets are well supplied with common sewers, which 
tjerve to carry off the filth ; and they are kept sweet by the 
supply of fresh water from the water-works, Avhich is constant- 
ly pouring into them from ever}' part of the city. This sup- 
ply of water also keeps the streets pure by running along the 
gutter.s, so that almost every street has a little stream on each 
side of it ; and this circumstance, though apparently trivial, is 
probably of more importance than is generally imagined. 

There are fourteen constables and two high constables, 
whose business it is to perambulate the streets, a\ hich they do 
with a mace in their hands, and to examine all suspicious look- 
ing persons. If such refuse to give a satisfactory account of 
themselves, they are taken before the mayor. There are 36 
watchmen who crv the hour (to imitate which, subjects the 
offender to immediate imprisonment), and six other who visit 
their boxes to see that they perform their duty. The whole 
are under the direction of a capiahi, who attends to receive 



I- 



^NGIFL\'V^D FOM MACKEI^ZflE'S AMERICA, 




^^lE^^^of Ae roiTWTRT romud FlTTSBUUH G , 



UNITED STATES. 177 

vagrants, rioters, and thieves. Watchmen are paid fourteen 
dollars (63*.) per month, fourteen-pence extra for every lamp 
under tlieir care, and are supplied with a great coat : they are 
fined for neglect of duty. The cost for lighting and watching 
Philadelphia is 25,000 dollars per annum. Circumstances 
have recently occurred, which, if true in all particulars, would 
prove the magistracy to be as corrupt as that of London in the 
days of Fielding. 

The manufactures of this city are rising into great import- 
ance. The principal are leather of every description, a great 
variety of wood and iron work, ships, ropes, fermented and 
distilled liquors, earthen ware, tin plate, hats, stockings, and a 
vast variety of cloths of various descriptions. The printing 
business is better established here than in any other place on 
the continent, and gives employment to a great number of pa- 
per-mills, and all classes connected with the book trade: 
printers, type-founders, engravers, bookbinders, and booksel- 
lers and stationers. 

The accommodations in the inns and taverns of this city are 
very indifferent : but strangers usually go to private boarding 
houses, of which there are nearly 2000. It is only since the 
year 1779 that any public amusements have been suffered ; 
the old corporation being mostly quakers. There are now two 
theatres and an amphitheatre. The new theatre is tolerably 
handsome, and w^ell supported. 

The population of this city in 1817 was estimated at 
180,000 ; and still new buildings were erecting in different 
parts of the suburbs. 

The next consiflerable place in this province is Pittsburgy 
di&tant above 350 miles from Philadelphia. It is the gate of 
the western empire, and has risen into importance with a ra- 
pidity almost unparalleled. It is situated at the confluence of 
the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, the junction of which 
forms the Ohio. It extends about three quarters of a mile 
along the Alleghany river, and about half a mile along the 
Monongahela. The site of the town is narrow, being hem- 
med in by hills to the eastward, about half a mile from the 

Z 



178 VIEW OF THE 

Alleghany river ; but there is room for it to extend along that 
river two miles." 

The town was first laid out in 1765 ; but was surveyed and 
laid out on a new plan in 1784. The plan was meant to ac- 
commodate the town to both rivers; but it is by no means so 
well designed as it might have been. The streets are gene- 
rally too narrow, and they cross one another at acute angles, 
which is both hurtful to the eye and injurious to the buildings. 
The value of the situation may be determined by a notice of 
the progress of the towii. In 1800 it contained 2400 inhabit- 
ants; in 1807 it contained about 500 houses; and in 1810 it 
contained 11 stone buildings, 283 of brick, and 473 of frame 
and log : niakino- in all 767 ; and the number of inhabitants 
was 4768. Pittsburg has, of course, nearly doubled its popu- 
lation in ten years ; and there is every pi'obability that this 
ratio will continue for a considerable time to come : so that 
Pittsburg will in all probability become one of the largest 
towns in America. 

' This town,' says Mr. Fearon, ' is Interesting in several 
points of view : from its natural situation, being at the termi- 
nation of two, and the commencement of a third river, which 
has a direct communication with the ocean, though at the al- 
most incredible distance of 2500 miles ; its scenery, which is 
truly picturesque ; its exhaustless possession of that first-rate 
material for manufactories, coal ; its original situation as an 
early military post, and remarkable for two defeats of the Bri- 
tish, more especially that of general ISradock by the French 
and Indians, in which the great Washington first distinguished 
himself, though but a youth and only a militia colonel ; and 
lastly, its present importance as being the connecting link be- 
tween nezo and old America ; and though it is not at present a 
*' Birmingham,*' as the natives bombastically call it, yet it cer- 
tainly contains the seeds of numerous important manufactories. 
The published accounts of this city are so exaggerated and out 
of all reason, that strangers are usually disappointed on visit- 
ing it.' 

Agricultural produce finds here a ready and an ad\antage- 
ous market. Farming, in this neighbourhood, is not the most 



UNITED STATES. 179 

profitable mode of employing capital ; but it is bore, as in all 
other parts of the union, an independent mode of life. The 
farmer must labour hard with his own liimds. The ' help"' 
which he pays for will be dear, and not of that kind to be re- 
lied on, in the mode of its execution, as in England. This 
may not proceed from a worse state of character, but a defer- 
ence in condition, as compared with our working class. They 
are paid about fourteen dollars per month, and board. In 
many instances they expect to sit down Avith the master, to 
live as well, and to be upon terms of equality with every 
brancli of the family ; and if this should be departed from, the 
scythe and the sickle will be laid down in the midst of harvest. 
There is a class of men throughout the western country, called 
* merchants,'' who, in the summer and autumn months, collect 
flour, butter, cheese, pork, beef, whiskey, and every species of 
farming produce, which they sent in flats and keel-boats to the 
New Orleans market. The demand created by this trade, 
added to a large domestic consumption, insures the most re- 
mote farmer a certain market. Some of these speculators 
have made large fortunes. 

In the coal hills, the mineral is found in a horizontal posi- 
tion, lying at present above level. It is worked by adits or 
openings into the side of the hills, which draw oft' the water. 
The stream being boarded over, the coal is wheeled out in 
barrows, and tripped from an overhanging stage into one-horse 
waggons. The waggons are without wheels, and the horses, 
if blind, are preferred, the hills being so steep, that in case of 
the least start, nothing can save them from destruction. 

Rain falls here almost incessantly. The smoke is also ex- 
treme, giving to the town and its inhabitants a very sombre 
aspect ; though it is said to be very healthy. The diseases are 
bilious remittent fevers, rheumatic among the aged, a few cases 
of bronchocele which affects the theroid gland of females, and 
inflammatory sore throat in wet weather. Medical aid is easy 
of attainment, though not always of the most valuable kind. 
There is of doctors, as of lawyers, too large a supply, and of 
course many of them very inefficient. A physician here is 
also a surgeon, prepares his own medicines, and practises in 



im VIEW OF THE 

every department of the profession : generally they are neither 
so well educated, nor in such respectable circumstances, as our 
medical men. 

Besides the supply of the town and country round with ma- 
nufactures, Pittsburg has a vast export trade, principally down 
the Ohio. As the greater part of the manufactures are in a 
progressive state of improvement, workmen can hardly go 
wrong by coming to this place. They are sure of work and 
good wages at all times. The following new branches of ma- 
nufacture might be established to advantage : chaise and chair 
making, upholstery, piano-fortes and other musical instru- 
ments, stocking frames ; and the following are susceptible of 
augmentation : cotton and wool spinning and weaving, and 
stocking-making. 

The manufacturing interest of Pittsburg is that of the 
United States. Many of the manufactories originated during 
the late war, and all of them flourished during its continuance. 
At present they are generally upon the wane. A document 
was issued from their committee in 1817, setting forth their 
distress in the strongest language — from which it would appear 
to equal that of our manufacturing classes, even during the 
worst period of their sufferings. Mr. Ephrim Portland, the 
prothonotary of this town, presented Mr. Fearon with the fol- 
lowing list of manufactories up to January, 1818, published 
by the authority of the committee. 



UNITED STATES. 



181 



Maniifactories in and near the city of Pittsburgh in the State 
of Pennsylvania^ in the Year 1817. 



Manufactures. 


Number 

of Men 

employed. 


Yearly 
Amount. 








Dollars. 


1 Augur-maker 


_ 


6 


3,500 


1 Bellows-maker 


- 


3 


10,000 


18 Blacksmiths 


_ 


74 


75,100 


3 Brewers _ _ - 


_ 


17 


72,000 


3 Brush-makers - 


_ 


7 


8,600 


1 Button-maker 


_ 


6 


6,250 


2 Cotton-spinners and carders 


- 


36 


25,518 


11 Copper-smiths and tin-plate- \ 
workers - - . / 


100 


200,000 


7 Cabinet-makers 


. 


43 


40,000 


1 Currier - _ _ 


_ 


4 


12,000 


2 Cutlers . - - 


_ 


6 


2,400 


4 Iron-founders 


_ 


87 


180,000 


3 Gun-smiths and bridlebit makers 


14 


13,800 


2 Flint-glass manufacturers 


_ 


82 


110,000 


3 Green (window) ditto - 


. 


92 


130,000 


2 Hardware - - _ 


. 


17 


18,000 


7 Hatters - - - 


_ 


49 


44,640 


1 Locksmith - - - 


_ 


7 


12,000 


1 Linen . - - 


_ 


20 


25,000 


7 Nail - - . . 


_ 


47 


174,716 


1 Paper - _ _ 


- 


40 


23,000 


1 Pattern 


_ 


21 


1,500 


3 Plane 


_ 


6 


57,600 


1 Patten 


. 


5 


8,000 


1 Rope manufacturer 


_ 


8 


15,000 


1 Spinning machine 


_ 


6 


6,000 


1 Spanish Brown 


_ 


2 


6,720 


1 Silver plater 


_ 


40 


20,000 


2 Steam-engine-makers 


_ 


70 


125,000 


6 Saddlers - - - 


_ 


60 


86,000 


5 Silversmiths and watch-menders 


17 


12,000 


14 Shoe and boot 


_ 


109 


120,000 


7 Tanners and curriers 


_ 


47 


58,800 


4 Tallow-chandlers 


_ 


7 


32,600 


4 Tobacconists 


_ 


28 


21,000 


5 Waggon-makers - 


. 


21 


28,500 


2 Weavers _ _ - 


_ 


9 


14,562 


3 Windsor chair 


. 


23 


42,600 


2 Woollen ... 


_ 


30 


17,000 


1 Wire-drawer 


_ 


12 


6,000 


1 White Lead 


. 


6 


40,000 


Total number of workmen. 


1280. 


— Ditto, amount. 


l,8):)(),3f)6 Dollar 


s. • 



182 VIEW OF THE 

Mr. Fearon, when at Pittsburg, says, ' At Messrs. Page and 
BakewelPs glass warehouse I saw chandeliers and numerous 
articles in cut glass of a very splendid description ; among the 
latter was a pair of decanters, cut from a London pattern, the 
price of which will be eight guineas. It is well to bear in 
mind, that the demand for these articles of elegant luxury lies 
in the zacstcrn states ! the inhabitants of eastern America being 
still importers from the "old country.'''* What interesting 
themes of reflection are offered by such facts to the philosopher 
as Avell as to the politician ! Not thirty years since, the whole 
right bank of the Ohio was termed the " Indian side."" Spots 
in Tennessee, in Ohio, and Kentucky, that within the life time 
of even young men, witnessed only the arrow and the scalp- 
ing-knife, now present to the traveller articles of elegance and 
modes of luxury which might rival the displays of London 
and Paris ; while, within the last half century, the beasts of 
the forest, and man more savage than the beast, were the only 
inhabitants of the whole of that immense tract peculiarly de- 
nominated the " Western Country ;"" which is now partially 
inhabited, and promises soon to be generally so, by man — ci- 
vilized man, possessed of the arts and the pursuits of civilized 
life. It is already the refuge of the oppressed from every 
other nation. May it become the seat of enlightenment, of 
private vii'tue and pubhc liberty ; and it may then, but not till 
ihen^ expect to rank among the greatest, the most powerful, 
and the most respected of the nations of the earth ! 

' The rapid and unexampled progress of this country, pre- 
sents a valuable and an extraordinary political lesson to the 
Avorld at large. It shews us what a nation may become when 
the principles of its government are cheap and liberal, when its 
resources ai-e called forth, and its powers expanded by the 
means of a system emanating from the people, and n'ot re- 
pressed by establishments whose only recommendation is their 
antiquity, nor compelled to contribute towards the support of 
a system which deprives them of the legitimate reward of their 
indusjiry. But to return to less speculative and more practical 
detail. 



UNITED STATES. 183 

' The state of trade is at present dull ; but that there is a 
great deal of business done must be evident from the quantity 
of " dry goods"'' and " grocery stores,'" many of the proprietors 
of which have stocks as large as the majority of London retail 
dealers. They are literally stuffed with goo^s of English ma- 
nufacture, consisting of articles of the most varied kind, from 
a man'*s coat or a lady's gown, down to a whip or an oyster 
knife. Rents', of course, vary according to situation : houses 
in the best stands for business are from 400 to 800 dollars per 
annum ; others are from 150 to 350 : two rooms, or a very 
small house a short distance from town, would be 80 dollars 
per annum. 

' It is difficult to form a judgment whether there is an open- 
ing in any of the present established businesses. One fact 
strongly in favour of the stability of the town is, thai there has 
not been a harJcruptcy hi Itfw three years ! ! ! a singular con- 
trast this with New York, in which the last pubhshed list of 
insolvents contained upwards of 400 names."" 

Lancaster is situated on a fertile plain, 62 miles to the west- 
ward of Philadelphia. It is built on'a regular plan, the streets 
crossing one another at right angles. The houses are mostly 
constructed of brick, but some few are of stone. The inha- 
bitants amount to 5405, and are mostly of German origui. 
The public buildings are seven places for public worship, a 
court-house, jail, and market-house ; and there is a poor-house, 
a very humane institution, situated on the Conestoga creek, a 
mile from the town. The principal manufactures are fire-arms, 
particularly rifle-barrelled guns ; and there are several tan- 
yards, distilleries, and breweries. This is, at present, the seat 
of government for Pennsylvania, but, by an act of the legisla- 
ture, it is to be removed to Harrisburg ; and 39,000 dollars 
have been appropriated to erect public buildings there. 

Harr-'ishiirg is situated on the east branch of the Susque- 
hannah, 97 miles from Phikadelphia. It is handsomely laid 
out on the plan of Philadelphia, having four streets running 
parallel with the river, named Front, Second, and so on ; and 
these are crossed by others at right angles, called IVIulberry, 
Chesnutj Market, Walnut, Locust, and Pine. The houses 



184 VIEW OF THE 

are mostly built of brick, and have a good appearance, and the 
town is rapidly increasing, particularly since the act of legisla- 
ture constituting it the seat of government for the state. The 
inhabitants of the township amount to 2287. There is an ele- 
gant court-house and stone jail built ; and the public buildings 
for the accommodation of the state government, now erecting, 
will be the most elegant structures in the state. Harrisburg 
■was laid out in 1785, and has made great progress ever since; 
and from its commanding and central situation, it will, in 
all probability, become one of the largest inland towns in 
America. 

Carlisle is situated on a large plain, having somewhat the 
appearance of Lancaster. It is regularly laid out, with streets 
crossing one another at right angles ; and contains, by the last 
census, 2491 inhabitants. The houses are partly built of 
brick and partly of wood, and have a very respectable appear- 
ance. The public buildings are, a college, a court-house, jail, 
and five places for public worship. The college is named 
Dickenson, in honour of a gentleman of that name who was its 
founder, and is esteemed an excellent seminary of learning. 
Its funds are about 10,000 dollars in certificates, and the state 
made a grant in support of it, of 10,000 acres of land. A 
philosophical apparatus, and library, consisting of nearly 3000 
volumes, are attached to it. Dr. Nesbit, a Scots gentleman of 
high estimation, was several years president of this college. 
There are a principal and three professors, and the students 
amount to above one hundred. 

Yoi'Tc and Reading are also considerable towns, and are in- 
creasing in Avealth and population. 

Trade and Resources. — Pennsylvania is said to be one of the 
greatest manufacturino; states in the Union. Domestic manu- 
factures are general throughout the state ; but there are many 
manufactures on a large scale, some of which may be enume- 
rated. Of iron there are about SO furnaces, besides numerous 
forges, slitting mills, and trip hammers. Of wood, all sorts of 
furniture, and implements of husbandry. Of leather, boots, 
shoes, saddles, bridles, harness, &c. Of wool, a variety of 
dotbs, stockings, and hats. Together with a variety of other 



UNITED STATES. 185 

articles, such as malt liquors, spirits, glass, ashes, maple-sugar, 
musquets, powder, shot, balls, cannon, bells, &c. &c. 

The exports consist principally of grain, flour, iron utensils, 
flax-seed, soap and candles, lumber, beef, pork, &c. The 
principal articles of export to Britain are grain and flour, and 
Sonii* cotton from the southern states. The imports consist of 
East and West India and China goods ; wine, gin, &c. from 
the continent of Europe ; and manufactures from Britain ; of 
Avhich the quantity imported is immense, and is yearly increas- 
ing. The value of imports is about 12,000,000 dollars annu- 
ally, of which those from Britain are a full half; from whence 
we may infer the utility of the trade to both countries, and the 
importance of a good understanding between them. 

According to the report of the assessors, the value of houses 
and lands in this state in 1815 was estimated at 346,633,889 
dollars ; the land being valued at 29 dollars an acre. The 
gross amount of duties on merchandise in the same year was 
7)2^7,450 dollars. There were 77)199 to»s of shipping em- 
ployed in foreign trade, and 650 tons of small vessels employed 
in the coasting trade. 

Education. — There are four colleges, besides a number of 
academies, in this state. A large tract of land is appropriated 
for the establishments of free schools ; yet many of the Ger- 
mans and Irish are extremely ignorant. 

Religion. — We have already mentioned the prevailing sects 
in this jirovince, which consist of quakers or friends, presbyte- 
rians, episcopalians, German Lutherans, and Moraviaiis. The 
latter are of German extraction, and are collected in distinct 
societies under peculiar laws. Nazareth, Bethlehem, and Litiz 
are their principal settlements. The tunkers, dippers, or tum- 
blers, are a harmless sect of German baptists. The men wear 
the White Friars'* dress, and the women that of the nuns ; and 
both, like them, take the vow of celibacy. When they break 
this vow and marry, they are obliged to leave their cells and 
live amongst the married people : they mostly reside at 
Ephrata, in the county of Lancaster. The Mennonists are 
also Germans; they reside at Germantown, 

2 A 



186 VIEW OF THE 

Govermnent. — The civil government is vested in a legisla- 
ture, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. The 
[Senators are chosen for four yeflrs, and the representatives an- 
nually, by the people. The executive authority is vested in a 
governor, who is also elected by the people, and holds his office 
for three years. The constitution declares, ' That all men are 
born equally free and independent ; that all power is inherent 
in the people; that all men have a natural and indefeasible 
right to worship God according to the dictates of their own 
consciences, and no man can of right be compelled to attend, 
erect, or support any place of worship, or to maintain any mi- 
nistry, against his consent ; that no human authority can, in 
any case whatever, control or interfere with the rights of con- 
science, and that no preference shall ever be given, by law, to 
any religious establishment, or modes of worship ; that elec- 
tions shall be free and equal; that trial by jury shall be invio- 
late ; that no law shall ever be made to restrain the liberty of 
the press; that tlje people shall be secure against all unwar- 
rantable searches, and excessive bail shall not be required ; 
tliat the legislature shall provide by law for the establishment 
of schools throughout the state, in sucli a manner as the poor 
may be taught gratis , the arts and sciences shall be promoted.' 

All this is certainly very excellent in theory ; but a late in- 
telligent traveller, who examined the political machine of this 
state with gTeat attention, gives a very unfavourable opinion of 
the mode of its operation. It appears that the governor has 
the gift of from forty to fifty offices, amongst which are those 
of recorder, alderman, and indeed every minor as well as im- 
portant civil occupation. The office is therefore an object of 
severe contest; and each of the different contending parties 
endeavour to secure the choice of inspectors of the ballot to 
their own friends, as upon this they judge of the result of the 
general election ! 

The whole state is divided into 37 counties, and upwards of 
500 townships. 

History. — Pennsylvania was granted by king Charles II. to 
William Penn, son of the famous admiral Penn, in considera- 



UNITED STATES. 187 

tion of his father's services to the crown. Mr. Penn\s petition 
for the grant was presented to the king in 1680; and after 
considerable delays, occasioned by lord Baltimore's agent, who 
apprehended it might interfere with the Maryland patent, the 
charter of Pennsylvania received the royal signature on the 
4<th of March, 1681. To secure his title against all claims, 
and prevent future altercation, Mr. Penn procured a quit-claim 
deed from the duke of York, of all the lands, covered by his 
own patent, to which the duke could have the least pretensions. 
This deed bears date, August 21, 1682. On the 24th of the 
same month, he obtained from the duke, by deed of feoffment, 
Newcastle, with twelve miles of the adjacent territory, and the 
lands south to the Hoarkills. In December following, Mr. 
Penn effected an union of the lower counties with the province 
of Pennsylvania. 

The first frame of government for Pennsylvania is dated in 
1682. By this form, all legislative powers were vested in the 
governor and freemen of the province^ in the form of a provin- 
cial council, and a general assembly. The council was to con- 
sist of 72 members, chosen by the freemen ; of which the 
governor, or his deputy, was to be perpetual president, with a 
treble vote. One-third of this council went out of office every 
year, and their scats were supplied by new elections. 

The general assembly was at first to consist of all the free- 
men, afterwards of 200, and never to exceed 500. 

In 1683, Mr. Penn offered another frame of government, 
in which the number of representatives was reduced, and the 
governor vested with a iiegative upon all bills passed in assem- 
bly. By several specious arguments, the people were per- 
suaded to accept this frame of government. 

Not long after, a dispjte between Mr. Penn and lord Balti- 
more required the former to go to England, and he committed 
the administration of government to five commissioners, taken 
from the council. In 1686, Mr. Penn required the commis- 
sioners to dissolve the frame of government; but not being 
able to effect his purpose, he, in 1688, appointed captain John 
IJakewell his deputy. From this period, the proprietors usu- 
ally resided in England, and administered the government by 



188 VIEW OF THE 

deputies, wlio were devoted to their interest. Jealousies arose 
between the people and their governors, which never ceased 
till the late revolution. The primary cause of these jealousies 
was an attempt of the proprietary to extend his own power, 
and abridge that of the assembly ; and the consequence was 
incessant disputes and dissensions in the legislature. 

In 1693 the king and queen assumed the government in 
their own hands ; and three years after, a new form of govern- 
ment was established. In 1701, the proprietor, Mr. Penn, 
granted a charter of privileges, which continued till the revo- 
lution. The Indians, about the same time, confirmed the 
grants of land made to the proprietors in former years. Al- 
though the government of the proprietaries was abolished at 
the revolution, yet they still possess many large tracts of ex- 
cellent land. 



DELAWAKE. 



Situation and Extent. HP HE state of Delaware is situated 

between 38 deg. 29 min. and 39 
deg. 47 min. north lat., and 1 deg. 15 min. and 1 deg. 56 min. 
east long. It is bounded on the north by the territorial line, 
which divides it from Pennsylvania ; on the east by Delaware 
river and bay ; on the south by a due east and west line, from 
cape Henlopen in lat. 38 deg. 30 min. to the middle of the 
peninsula, which line divides the state from Worcester county 
in Maryland ; and on the west by Maryland, from which it is 
divided by a line drawn from the western termination of the 
southern bo\indary line, northwards up the said peninsula, till 
it touch or form a tangent to the western part of the periphery 
of the above-mentioned territorial circle. Its greatest length 



UNITED STATES. 189 

is 100 miles, and greatest breadth 37 ; its area being about 
1800 square miles, or about 1,15^,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — The face of the greater part of the 
country is level, abounding with swamps and stagnant water ; 
but tovvard the northern part it is more elevated, and near its 
extremity there is a considerable chain of hills. There are 
numerous creeks in the state, but no rivers of consequence. 
The principal one is Brandywine creek, which falls into the 
Delaware at Wilmington, and on which there are numerous 
mills and manufactories. 

The soil, in the southern part, is low and sandy, and en- 
tirely free of stones ; in the northern part it is more diversified, 
and mixed with clay and loam. 

The climate partakes of the configuration of the country. 
The southern part has a humid atmosphere, often foggy and 
unwholesome ; but it is mild and temperate in winter. The 
northern part is agreeable and healthy. 

The greater part of the inhabitants of this state are devoted 
to agricultural pursuits, and they have rendered it very pro- 
ductive. The principal produce is wheat, rye, Indian corn, 
barley, oats, and flax. Grasses ai'e abundant, and thrive very 
luxuriantly, furnishing food for many cattle ; and every sort 
of vegetable, common to the states already described, thrive 
well here. 

Canal. — A canal was projected across this state and part of 
Maryland, to form a junction between the Delaware and Che- 
sapeake, and it is partly cut ; but the work was stopped for 
want of funds. It may probably be well that it is so ; for it 
was projected on too small a scale, and, in process of time, will 
probably give way to one that will admit of sloop navigation. 
There cannot be a finer situatiorr for a canal. The distance 
between the Delaware and Chesapeake is only about 18 or 20 
miles, and the country is nearly level, so that few locks will be 
requisite ; and were a canal cut, it would form a connection 
between two of the finest rivers in America, and be a link in 
the chain of an internal navigation of vast extent. 

Population, ^-c. — The population of this state in 1817 was 
108,334, which is CO persons to a square mile. There are no 



190 VIEW OF THE 

obvious characteristical differences between the inhabitants of 
this state and the Pennsylvanians. 

Chief Towns. — There are no towns of much importance in 
this district. Dover ^ in the county of Kent, is the seat of go- 
vernment. It stands on Jones' creek, a few miles from the 
Delaware river, and consists of about 100 houses, principally 
of brick. Four streets intersect each other at right angles, in 
the centre of the town, whose incidencies form a spacious pa- 
rade, on the east side of which is an elegant state-house of 
brick. The town has a lively appearance, and drives on a 
considerable trade with Philadelphia. AVheat is the principal 
article of export. The landing is five or six miles from the 
town of Dover. Newcastle^ Wilmington, Leivistozcn, and 
Georgetown, are lively, thriving little towns. 

Trade and Resources. — Flour is the principal manufacture 
carried on in the state. The mills on Brandy wine creek are in 
great perfection, giving employment to upwards of 600 hands; 
and they manufacture upwards of half a million of bushels an- 
nuallv. The other articles consist principally of iron, paper, 
and lumber. In these a very extensive trade is carried on, 
principally with the other states and the West Indies. 

The value of houses and lands in this state in 1817 was 
14,493,620 dollars, the land being valued at 13 dollars per 
acre. The gross revenue was 43,282 dollars. There were 
T543 tons of shipping employed in foreign trade, and 742 in 
the coasting trade. 

Education. — A very considerable fund is appropriated by 
the state to the support of schools, which are pretty numerous, 
and there are two flourishing academies ; one at Wilmington, 
and the other at Newark. 

Religion. — Presbyterianism is the principal religion in this 
state. The episcopalians are also numerous; and there are 
some quakers, baptists, and members of the Swedish church. 

Government. — Delaware is divided into three counties and 
24 districts, called hundreds. The constitution guarantees 
equal rights to all the citizens, without regard to propei'ty or 
religious opinions. The government is vested in a governor, 
a senate, and house of representatives, which are elected by 



UNITED STATES. 191 

ballot, and ' every white freeman, of the age of 21, who has 
resided in the state two years next before the election, shall 
enjoy the right of an elector. The sons of persons so qualified 
shall, betwixt the ages of 21 and 22, be entitled to vote, though 
they have paid no taxes.' 

History. — This state was first settled by a colony of Swedes 
and Finns about the year 1627 ; but in 1655 they were dis- 
possessed by the Dutch. After the capture of New York by 
the English, the authority of the Dutch was superseded ; and 
this state in 1674, which was then called the New Netherlands, 
was granted bv Charles II. to his brother the duke of York, 
who sold it to William Penn. The three counties which con- 
stitute this state were therefore considered as part of Penn- 
sylvania until the revolution, when it was declared an inde- 
pendent state. 



STATE OF OHIO. 

Siiuatioii and Extent. nPHIS state is bounded on the north 

by lake Erie and Michigan terri- 
tory ; on the south and south-east by the Ohio river ; on the 
east by Pennsylvania; and on the west by the Indiana terri- 
tory. It extends from north lat. 38 Ae^. 30 rain, to 39 deg. 
57 min., and from 3 deg. 25 min. to 7 (^eg. 37 min. west long. 
Its length is 228 miles, and its breadth 227; its square con- 
tents about 45,000 square miles, or 28,800,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — That fine river the Ohio has been 
already described. It is 795 miles from Pittsburg to the falls, 
and its medium breadth is 650 yards. It receives the waters 
of very considerable rivers between the fall and the Mississippi, 
viz. on the Kentucky side, Salt river, navigable 50 miles; 
Green river, navigable 160 miles ; Cumberland river, naviga- 



192 VIEW OF THE 

ble 300 or 400 miles ; and Tennessee river, navigable 1200 or 
1400 miles: on the Indiana side. Blue river, navigable 40 
miles; and the Wabash, navigable upwards of 200 miles. 
The velocity of the current depends upon the quantity of wa- 
ter, which is exceedingly various. In spring and fall, particu- 
larly in spring, it rises to the astonishing height of from 40 to 
60 feet, when the velocity is augmented in proportion. The 
greatest velocity seems not to exceed four miles an hour. The 
Ohio abounds with a great variety of fish, among which are 
catfish, pike, perch, and sturgeon ; and on the banks are great 
numbers of wild turkies, geese, ducks, pheasants, partridges, &c. 

The Miami of the lakes runs through the northern part of 
the state, and appears to be a very interesting river, with rich 
banks. It rises in the Indiana territory, a little beyond the 
state line, where there is a portage of eight miles only to the 
Wabash. It continues a north-east course to fort Defiance, 
where it is joined by the Au Glaise river, a considerable stream 
from the southward, which rises near the head of the Great 
Miami. From fort Miami the river runs a north-east course 
of 60 miles, when it falls into lake Erie, through Miami bay. 
The bay extends about 12 miles into the interior of the coun- 
try ; is from half a mile to three miles- wide, and deep enough 
for vessels of 30 or 40 tons. The river is navigable for long 
boats more than 100 miles. 

The section of country bounding on the Ohio river, 
from 25 miles on either side of Cincinnati, and extending 
back about 100 miles directly north, to the late Indian 
boundary line, (which, according to treaty, is now extin- 
guished,) is generally an excellent body of land, and is welt 
settled, though but small improvements are yet made, except 
in a few particular places near towns. The land is closely 
timbered, except near the head waters of the two Miamis,- 
where there is a beautiful champaign country. The prairies, 
or natural meadows, are here of considerable extent. Grazing 
is the chief occupation of the inhabitants. The price of land 
varies very much, according to situation and the proximity of 
townships. Farms which are called impi'oved can be bought 
at from 8 to 30 dollars per acre : the improvements often con- 



UNITED STATES. 193 

sist of the erection of rough log buildings, and about from 12 
to 20 acres under middling cultivation. Buildings are in- 
cluded in the price per acre. The next class of farms have 
from 20 to 50 acres under cultivation : the proportion of arable 
and wood is about two-thirds, of meadow and pasturage nearly 
equal proportions. Any of the land is here capable, by cul- 
ture, of beins turned into meadow. Limestone abounds : coal 
and iron have not yet been discovered, except in the eastern 
part of the state. 

There are large prairies in Ross county, on the north branch 
of Paint creek, near Chillicothe ; these prairies are from five 
to eight miles square : in them there is not a shrub to be seen. 
They produce a grass growing thick, and about four feet high, 
wliich makes excellent fodder : it is similar to Massachusetts 
upland grass, and is there called English hay. These prairies 
are filled with herds of cattle fattening for the Baltimore and 
Philadelphia markets, which are sold in this state, on tlie hoof, 
for about three dollars per hundred weight. The chief ex- 
pence of pasturage consists in a man's wages to look after the 
herds, twice a week, giving them salt, &c. 

The banks of the Ohio are generally heavily timbered. The 
principal kinds of timber are oak, hickory, walnut, mulberry, 
chesnut, ash, cherry, locust, sugar-tree, &c. ; and the syca- 
more, towering above the whole, grows here to an astonishing 
size. ' I noticed,' says Melish, ' the remains of a very large 
sycamoi'e tree in the neighbourhood of Pittsburg, and I saw 
most surprising specimens on tiie banks of this river. I did 
not measure any of them ; but the editor of the Pittsburg Na- 
vigator, to whose testimony full faith may be given, mentions 
that he measured several from 10 to 16 feet in diameter. A 
gentleman from Marietta told him that he knew of one 60 feet 
in circumference, and that, in the hollow of another, he had 
turned himself round, with a pole in his hand 10 feet long. 
Into the hollow of another 13 men rode on horseback, in June, 
1806, and the fourteenth was only prevented by the skittish- 
ness of his horse !' 

The trees produced by the best class of land are honey- 
locust, black walnut, and beech ; 'jv second quality, sugar- 
9 2 B " 



194 VIEW OF THE 

tree, sycamore or butter-wood, and white-wood, used for 
building and joiners' work ; the third quality produces oak. 
Throughout this state there is little under or brush-wood, 
caused by the height and spreading tops of the trees, which 
prevent the sun penetrating to the ground, and nourishing in- 
ferior articles of vegetation. 

With regard to the seasons, they are said to have severe 
winters of from three to four months, with a keen dry air, and 
cloudless sky; during summer excessive heat, (thermometer in 
the shade, 80 to 96 deg.) with heavy dews at night ; springs, 
cold and heavy rains; autumns, fine, followed by ^Indian 
summer^ which is truly delightful. In this state there is 
scarcely an elevation which can be called a hill, with exception 
of slight bluffs on the margin of rivers. The dreary monotony 
of limited views of such endless uniformity produces sensations 
of the most depressing melancholy. The atmosphere, after a 
hot day, causes head-aches, which frequently terminate in an 
intermittent fever. A mane's being sick, (the term applied to 
every species of illness,) is as common in this country, as being 
in distress is in Eng-land. ' In regard to healthiness of situa- 
tion,' says a late writer, ' there is considerable variety, as the 
appearance of the inhabitants will in some measure indicate ; 
though as a general characteristic, I would say, there is a want 
of sound regular health, at least if our English ideas of ruddy 
cheeks are to be taken as a criterion. The people are of a tall, 
vaulty aspect, and seem, even during their most active occu- 
pations, to be the victims of fever and ague. 

' Of the existence of minerals, and to what extent and va- 
riety, at present but little is kno^vn. Judging from the beds 
of the rivers, and quality of the water, I should presume that 
coal must be abundant. Salt is found in several situations, 
particularly on the Kenhaway. The common order of the 
strata is, first, sandstone, then limestone, argillaceous schist, 
and coal. The wild animals are neither numerous nor trou- 
blesome ; though the wolf and the squirrel are still depreda- 
tors: but the sport afforded in capturing them, and the 
addition which the flesh of the latter makes to the family 



UNITED STATES. 195 

stock of provisions, compensate for their lawless invasions of 
the rights of property.' 

Ohio is a new settled country, and has long been the fa- 
vourite district to which the current of emigration has been 
directed. We have hitherto avoided giving any particular 
direction or advice to the emigrant, as we intend to reserve 
this subject, and to make it a distinct article. We, will, how- 
ever, in this place give some account of the different districts 
into which this state is divided, and an enumeration of the 
chief towns in each. 

Districts. Chief Towns. 

Connecticut Reserve, Warren. 

Steubenville District, Canton, New Lisbon, Steuben- 

ville, St. Clairsville. 
Zanesville District, New Philadelphia, Coshocton, 

Zanesville. 
Marietta District, . Marietta. 

Ohio Company's Purchase, Athens, Galliopolis. 
Chillicothe District, Newark, Worthington, New 

Lancaster. 
Virginia Military Lands, Franklinton, Chillicothe, Zenia, 

West Union, WilHamsburg. 
Symraes' Purchase, Lebanon, Deerfield, Hamilton, 

Cincinnati. 
Cincinnati District, Dayton. 

Symmes' Purchase is one of the most judicious that has 
ever been made in the state of Ohio. It lies between the two 
Miami rivers, about 20 miles in breadth ; and extends from 
the Ohio into the interior of the country, about 30 miles. It 
contains one of the best bodies of land in the whole state, and 
is now nearly settled up. Land is consequently pretty high, 
and mav be rated at five dollars per acre, uncleared. In this 
purchase, hke that by the Ohio company, there is a reserve 
for a school, and another for a church. 

The Cincinnati District is situated to the westward of 
Symmes' purchase, and the United States land-office is in Cin- 



196 VIEW OF THE 

cinnati. This district is partly in the Indiana territory, but 
mostly in the state of Ohio, and contains a body of most ex- 
cellent land. It is bounded on the west by a line drawn from 
opposite the mouth of Kentucky river, to where the Indian 
north boundary line intersects the western line of the state of 
Ohio, and contains about 3000 square miles. 

These two districts constitute what is called the Miami 
country, which, in point of soil, climate, and natural advan- 
tages, is probably inferior to none in the United States, and 
few are equal to it. The soil of this district is reckoned, upon 
the whole, as the best in the state of Ohio. It is rated, in the 
state books, in this way : in 100 parts, 6 are first rate, 70 se- 
cond rate, and 24 third rate land. The face of the country is 
agreeably uneven, but not mountainous ; and the country has 
a plentiful supply of useful minerals, particularly iron. There 
are also several mineral springs. 

The whole of this country has been settled up in little more 
than 20 years, and it will afford an idea of the value of the 
country to state, that the inhabitants, of course mostly all emi- 
grants, now amount to nearly 40,000. Hamilton county, a 
small district, consisting of little more than 300 square miles, 
contains upwards of 15,000, being more than 50 to the square 
mile. 

The town of Cincinnati is elegantly situated on a first and 
second bank on the north side of the Ohio river, along which 
it extends nearly half a mile, and as far back in the country. 
The site of the town is elevated from 70 to 120 feet above low 
water mark, and is never overflowed. The land and water 
around it exhibit a very handsome appearane'e. The Ohio is 
here three quarters of a mile wide ; and I^icking river, a con- 
siderable stream in Kentucky, falls into it right opposite. The 
streets of Cincinnati are broad, crossing one another at right 
angles ; and the greater part of the houses being of brick, it 
-has a very handsome appearance. The streets, however, are 
not yet paved, except the side walks, on which account they 
are unpleasant in muddy weather ; but that is an evil which 
will soon be remedied. Cincinnati was laid out about 21 years 
ago, snice which it has made rapid progress, and now contains 



UNITED STATES. 197 

about 400 houses, and 2S83 inhabitants. The public build- 
ings are, a court-house, jail, bank, three market-houses, and 
some places for public worship, two cotton factories, and some 
considerable breweries and distilleries. The taverns are not 
numerous, but there are upwards of 30 dry goods stores, in 
which from 200,000 to «50,000 dollars worth of imported 
goods are disposed of annually. 

This is, next to Pittsburg, the greatest place for manufac- 
tures and mechanical operations on the river, and the profes- 
sions exercised are nearly as numerous as at Pittsburg. There 
are masons and stone-cutters, brick-makers, carpenters, cabi- 
net-makers, coopers, turners, machine-makers, wheel-wrights, 
smiths and nailors, copper-smiths, tin-smiths, silver-smiths, 
fifun-smiths, clock and watch-makers, tanners, saddlers, boot 
and shoe-makers, glovers and breeches-makers, butchers, ba- 
kers, brewers, distillers, cotton-spinners, weavers, dyers, tailors, 
printers, bookbinders, rope-n>akers, tobacconists, soap-boilers, 
candle-makers, cx)mb-makers, painters, pot and pearl ash- 
makers. 

These branches are mostly all increasing, and afford good 
wages to the journeymen. Carpenters and cabinet-makers 
have one dollar per day and their board ; masons have two 
dollars per 1000 for laying bricks and their board ; when they 
board themselves, they have about four dollars per 1000. 
Other classes have from one to one dollar twenty-five cents 
per day, according to the nature of the work. 

Porter brewing could be augmented, but it would first be 
necessary to have bottles, as the people here prefer malt liquor 
in the bottled state. A manufactory of wool hats would pro- 
bably succeed, and that of stockings would do remarkably well, 
provided frame smitii-work were established along with it — 
not else. As the people are becoming wealthy and polished in 
their manners, probably a manufactory of piano-fortes would 
do upon a small scale. 

The ViiioiNiAx Military Lands are bounded by the In- 
dian boundary line on the north, by the Ohio on the south, 
by the Cincinnati district and Symmes' purchase on the west, 
and by the Chillicothe district on the east. It is about 120 



198 VIEW OF TH£ 

miles long, and nearly 60 broad; and contains upwards of 
6000 square miles, or nearly 4,000,000 of acres. The princi- 
pal settlers are from Virginia, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, and 
Jersey ; the inhabitants amount to about 48,000, and are ra- 
pidly increasing in number, in wealth, and improvements. 
The country in the immediate neighbourhood of Chillicothe is 
really beautiful. The plain on which it stands, consisting of 
about 10,000 acres, is as level as a bowling-green ; and it is 
bounded on the west, north-west, and south-east by pretty 
high hills, from whence there are charming views. The 
Sciota is a clear stream, about 200 yards broad, with a gra- 
velly bottom, and abounds with fish, so that it is both useful 
and ornamental to the town. 

The town Chillicothe is built on these lands, and is laid 
out on a pretty large scale, and a great number of out-lots are 
attached to it. The plan is regular, the streets crossing one 
another at right angles, and every square is divided into four 
parts by lanes crossing one another also at right angles, and at 
equal distances between the streets. This must be a great 
advantage, as it gives the possessor of every lot a back entry. 
The streets are 66 feet wide, the alleys 16A ; the lots contain 
four acres each. 

Chillicothe was one of the first settled towns in the state of 
Ohio, and was for a considerable time the seat of government ; 
it now consists of about 250 houses, and contains 1360 inha- 
bitants, of whom 126 are free people of colour. 

The public buildings are a court-house, jail, academy, three 
churches, and a market-house.' 'J 'here are two rope walks, 
one cotton factory, one wool factory, one nail factory, one pot- 
tery, several distilleries, and four tan yards, and these are all 
thriving establishments. There are good mechanics in all the 
odier branches calculated for the country. There are six ta- 
verns and nineteen stores ; and this is a very general market 
for the surplus produce of the country, consisting mostly of 
flour of an excellent quality, pork, &c. A great proportion of 
the inhabitants are from Virginia and Maryland, and a num- 
ber from Pennsylvania ; there are but few New Englanders or 
foreigners. 



UNITED STATES. 199 

Chillicothe District is bounded by Cantoh district on 
the north ; by Zanesville district and the Ohio company's pur- 
chase on tlie east ; by the Ohio river south ; and by the \'ir- 
ginia miUtiiry lands on" the west; which are divided from 
Chilhcothe district by the Scioto river. The length from 
north to south is 145 miles, and the breadth from east to west 
42 : it contains about 5000 square miles, or about 3,200,000 
acres. The northern part, being nearly one-third of this dis- 
trict, is part of the United States military lands, and is gene- 
rally a good soil. Part of it is level and marshy ; but it is free 
from swamps, and, being nearly all appropriated to agricul- 
ture, will soon be drained and healthy. It abounds with 
springs of excellent water, and numerous rivulets. To the 
south of this runs a stri})e of land about three miles broad, and 
42 miles long, which vvas appropriated to the relief of such as 
had to abandon their settlements in the time of the war, and 
take refuge in other places, and is thence called refugee land. 
It is also good land ; but there is a large swamp in the middle 
of it, between Walnut creek, a branch of the Scioto, and Lick- 
ing creek, a branch of the Muskingum. From thence to 
Chillicothe is an undulating country, abounding in hill and 
dale, and so continues to the Ohio, the hills increasing in size 
as the country approaches that river. The soil is in generai 
good throughout the whole tract, the best of it being along tlie 
Ohio and Scioto rivers, which for that reason has the greatest 
number of settlements; but the whole is settling rapidly. 
There are large beds of limestone and freestone in the district, 
and these are interspersed with beds of clay, which retain the 
water, and this circumstance gives the country a preference 
over Kentucky. Iron ore is plentiful, and it is supposed the 
hills abound with coal. 

The whole is well watered, abounding in springs and small 
streams, having excellent situations for mill seats ; the Ohio 
washes it on the south, a distance of 60 miles ; and the Scioto 
washes it on the west its whole length. The Scioto is a very 
beautiful stream. It has a fine gentle current throughout its 
whole course, and is navigable for keel-boats to Chillicothe, 
and for smaller craft ncarlv to its source. There are several 



200 VIEW OF THE 

mineral springs in the district ; the chief are a salt spring, and 
a sulphur spring, not far from Chillicothe. 

The Ohio Company's Purchase extends along the Ohio 
river, including its windings, about 140 miles, but in a direct 
line it is only about 70. It extends west from Marietta 48, 
and north about 12 miles, the whole length from south to 
north being 80 miles. The area is about 1700 square miles, 
containing about a million of acres. The territory is laid out 
into townships of six miles square, and in each there is a re- 
servation of 640 acres of land for a church, and as much for a 
.school ; and two townships near the centre of the pui-chase, on 
Hockhocking river, have been reserved for a college. On this 
reserve Athens is now built. 

This tract was purchased from the United States for one 
dollar an acre, and the company were principally guided in 
their choice of the situation, by the commercial advantages 
which appeared to result from having the command of several 
fine rivers, particularly the Ohio and Muskingum ; without 
perhaps duly reflecting that agriculture takes the precedence 
of commeree. Before there can be trade there nuist be some- 
thing to trade in. Certain it is they fixed upon one of the 
worst situations in the state of Ohio, and, notwithstanding the 
dieapness of the purchase, most of the proprietors have found 
it a losing concern. The population is increasing, but not 
nearly in an equal degree to other parts of the state. The 
inhabitants amount at present to about li2,000. The climate 
is very agreeable, and is quite healthy. The whole district 
abounds with finely variegated scenery. 

The largest town in this district is Galliopolis, which is 
beautifully situated on a second bank of the Oiiio. It is laid 
out on a good plan : there is a square of eight acres in the 
centre, and the building ground is divided into squares of five 
acres each, by streets of 63 feet wide, crossing each other at 
right angles. The number of houses is about 70, and the in- 
habitants 300. The public buildings are a court-house, and 
the acadeniy ; which last is to contain a room for a church, 
one for a railitarv acadeniy. and one for a masonic hall. 



UNITED STATES. 201 

Marietta District is situated between the Steubenville 
district and the Ohio company's purchase. It extends into the 
interior of the country about 30 miles, and contains about 860 
square miles. The Ohio washes it on the south-east about 60 
miles. The soil here is much superior to the Ohio company's 
lands. It is handsomely watered, the principal river being the 
Little Muskingum ; and though it is only about half as large 
as the company's purchase, it contains nearly as many inhabit- 
ants, and is more likely to increase. 

The town of Marietta is very handsomely situated at the 
confluence of the Muskingum and Ohio rivers, of both of 
which it commands a fine view. That part of the town which 
lies next the Ohio is elevated above the bed of the river 45 
feet ; and yet, such is the rise of the water in some seasons, 
that it has been twice flooded ; on which account the town has 
lately increased most towards the north-west, on a second 
bank, and a considerable number of buildings have lately been 
erected on the opposite side of the Muskingum, which is some 
feet higher than the lower bank on the east side. The whole 
is handsomely laid out, and there is a greater portion of public 
ground for walks than is to be found about most of the towns 
in this country. 

Marietta, for a number of years, flourished in a very emi- 
nent degree, increasing in commerce, wealth, and splendour; 
and, though nearly 2000 miles from the ocean, ship-yards were 
erected, and ship-building carried on with spirit. But, of late, 
its commerce and ship-building has ceased, and it is now a dull 
place, though inhabited by a gay, lively people, mostly natives 
of Massachusetts. Its population is 1463. It contains a 
number of handsome buildings on the Massachusetts plan, 
which is elegant, light, and comfortable. The principal pub- 
lic building is a very handsome church. A bank was esta- 
blished in 1807, and also a steam-mill. There are several 
taverns and stores. 

Zaxesvili-e District is bounded on the north by Canton 
district, on the south by the Ohio company's purchase, on the 
east by Steubenville and Marietta districts, and on the west by 
Chillicothe district. Its length, from south to north, is about 

2 C 



202 VIEW OF THE 

72 miles ; its breadth is about 50 miles ; and its area about 
3600 square miles, or 2,304,000 acres. 

Upwards of two-thirds of this district is occupied by the 
army lands, and a small portion is refugee lands. The face of 
the country is beautifully diversified. To the south, along the 
Muskingum, the hills are pretty high and rough ; to the north 
the surface is agreeably uneven, with some pretty high hills ; 
to the north-west it is more level. The soil is various, but a 
great portion of it is good ; the bottoms on the rivers are very 
rich, and the hills are generally covered with a strong mould, 
which answers well for wheat. The whole is abundantly sup- 
plied with freestone, limestone, iron ore, and inexhaustible 
beds of coal. 

The district is remarkably well watered. The Muskingum 
runs through it from one extremity to the other. The natural 
timber is very fine, and of great variety. The chief kinds 
may be noticed : oak, walnut, hickory, cherry, sugar-maple, 
poplar, elm, ash, sycamore, honey-locust, &c. Fruit-trees of 
every kind thrive remarkably well : peach trees, raised firom 
the stone, bear fruit in three years. Grain, grass, and vege- 
tables, are raised in abundance. The climate is healthy and 
agreeable. People from the eastern state say that the summers 
are not so oppressive as in Vermont and Massachusetts, while 
the winters are generally so mild, that cattle mostly graze in 
the fields. 

It is little more than twelve years since this district began 
to settle, and it now contains about 20,000 inhabitants. The 
people are very mixed. The greater part are from Pennsyl- 
vania, and the remainder mostly from Virginia, Maryland, 
Jersey, and New England. 

Zanesville, the chief town, is situated on the Muskingum 
river, about 64 miles from the Ohio by land, and from 70 to 
80 by water. This town was laid out in the j'ear 1804. Five 
years afterwards it contained 92 houses, and 600 inhabitants : 
it now contains about 250 houses, and upwards of 1200 inha- 
bitants. The whole township contains 2154. Many of the 
houses are built of brick, and a few of stone. 



UNITED STATES. 203 

Steitbenville District extends from the Connecticut re- 
servation on the north to the Marietta district on the south, a 
distance of 72 miles ; and its extreme breadth at the north end 
is 60 miles, at the south end 42. Its area is about 2900 
square miles, and embraces nearly four counties, containing 
about 42,000 inhabitants, all settled here within 20 years. 
The Ohio river washes the eastern part of the district upwards 
of 60 miles, and in all this distance, except in the bottoms, the 
country on the margin of the river is rather rough ; but fur- 
ther back there is much good land, and the settlements on it 
are numerous and very important ; it is remarkably well wa- 
tered, there being upwards of 20 streams that run into the 
Ohio, besides those that run into the Muskingum and lake 
Erie ; and the head waters of all these being situated in the 
district, shows that it must be an elevated country. These 
rivers are mostly fed by springs, and they drive a great quan- 
tity of machinery. The timber is oak, hickory, walnut, ma- 
ple, cherry, locust, &c. 

The town of Steubenville is situated on an elevated second 
bank of the river. It was laid out in 1798, and consists now 
of nearly 200 dwelling-houses, and 880 inhabitants. The 
buildings are handsome and commodious, a great many of 
them being of brick. The public buildings are, a court-house, 
jail, church, a bank, a land-office, post-office, and printing- 
office. There are seven taverns, and twelve stores ; and the 
town is increasing, but not rapidly. 

Canton District was lately purchased from the Indians, 
and extends from the Tuscarawa river about 68 miles to the 
westward, and from the Connecticut reservation to the north 
boundary of Zanesville and Chillicothe districts, its average 
breadth being 28 miles. Its area is about 1800 square miles, 
or 1,152,000 acres. 

The district is nearly all level, and fit for cultivation, but it 
is in many parts very muddy, a circumstance common in the 
districts situated on the head waters of the rivers in this state. 
On this account it is difficult to make good roads, and it re- 
quires a pretty thick population to drain the country, and 
make it agreeable ; but tliere is a sufficient descent for carry- 



204. VIEW OF THE 

ing off the water, and this will be a very desirable country 
some time hence. It is abundantly supplied with springs, and 
streams of pure water. There is a great deal of prairie or 
meadow land interspersed through it. The principal timber 
is walnut, poplar, ash, elm, oak, sugar maple, and hickory. 
The soil is well adapted to the culture of grain, grass, tobacco, 
hemp, &c. 

The Connecticut Western Reservation is bounded 
by lake Erie on the nortli ; by Steubenville and Canton dis- 
tricts on the south ; by Pennsylvania on the east ; and by a 
line drawn through the middle of Sandusky bay on the west. 
It is in length about 122 miles, its average breadth about 45 ; 
and its area is about 5349 square miles, or 3,423,360 acres. 

The face of the country is generally level, in some places 
nearly flat, and in others swelling out into gentle hills, of 
which the greatest is the ridge that divides the waters of the 
lakes from those of the Mississippi. To the south of these is 
a gentle descent towards the Ohio ; and in the tract to the 
north, which is by far the greatest, there is a similar descent 
towards lake Erie. The soil is generally loam intermixed 
with clay, and sometimes with gravel. Very little of it can be 
called the best, but it is nearly all fit for cultivation, and it 
answers well for grazing : it also raises grain, vegetables, and 
fruit, in abundance. There are considerable beds of freestone 
throughout the district, and coal and iron are also found, but 
in no great abundance ; though several iron-works are in ope- 
ration, and it is presumed that a plentiful supply of both could 
be found if properly sought for. 

It is most beautifully watered on the north by the lake, and 
there are a number of very useful rivers. Tiie principal 
stream that runs to the south is Beaver creek, a very import- 
ant one, which drives a great quantity of machinery. The 
whole distinct is well supplied with springs of good water, and 
there are several salt springs, sulphur springs, and one of a 
bituminous substance, that burns like oil. 

Tlie principal timber is oak, chesnut, beech, maple, walnut, 
hickory, sycamore, and in some places pine ; but the last is 
not common here, and is hardly to be found any where else in 



UNITED STATES. 205 

the state. The climate is temperate, and the seasons are nearly 
assimilated to others ah'eady noticed in the state ; but there is 
a circumstance which renders the country here not so healthy 
as that farther south. The prevailing winds are from the 
south, particularly in sunmier and fall, and these, as they blow 
over the high lands of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia, are 
clear and elastic in all the southern part of the state, which is 
hilly and undulating. Towards the head waters of the rivers, 
however, the country becomes flat and marshy, in some few 
places, indeed, swampy, and the south winds reach this district 
loaded with the effluvia arising from these marshes and swamps. 
The efifect produced is greatest about the Cayahoga river, op- 
posite to which the lands at the head waters are most flat ; to- 
wards the w-est they get more elevated, and the elevation is 
greater still to the eastward ; and this may in part account for 
the fever being more conniion in Portage county and Cayahoga 
county, than any where else in the district. There are, how- 
ever, no marshes or swamps but what may and will be drained, 
when the country is settled up ; and the whole will then be a 
very fine climate, and a most agreeable place of residence. 

The claim of Connecticut to this territory was founded 
upon the charter of the stale, granted by king Charles II. of 
England, in 1662; which defined their boundaries to be the 
line of Massachusetts on the north, Narraganset bay on the 
east, and thence 120 miles broad to the South sea. This was 
interpreted to be the Pacific ocean, and of course included a 
part of the state of New York, a considerable portion of Penn- 
sylvania, and thence along the state of Ohio and the territories 
to the westward. The state of New York resisted the claim, 
and succeeded. In Pennsylvania a number of settlements 
were made under Connecticut titles, which occasioned a dis- 
pute, that was referred to congress, and by them to commis- 
sioners, who reported against the Connecticut claim. To the 
westward Connecticut yielded her claim to the United States, 
with the exception of the territory in question, which being 
accepted by congress, the matter was settled. In 1793, the 
legislature granted 500,000 acres of the western part of it to 
indemnify the sufferers by fire during the war, and this tract 



206 VIEW OF THE 

is called the Fire lands. In 1795, they sold the remainder to 
Oliver Phelps and others, for 1,200,000 dollars; which is ap- 
propriated for the support of schools within the state. The 
purchasers of the lands made a division of the property, and 
the settlements commenced a short time after, and have been 
going on pretty rapidly since the year 1799, by emigration 
from the New England states, principally from the state of 
Connecticut. The district is now divided into six counties, 
and contains 16,042 inhabitants The people have generally 
the frugal, industrious habits of the New England stated, and 
are civil -in their manners, and moral in their deportment. 
Education is generally attended to, and they seem also Ic^je 
religious, although the thin state of society does not admit of 
many churches or clergy. 

There are as yet but few villages in this district. Warren 
is the chief, and it is but a small place. The houses arc mostly 
of wood, a great part of them indeed being log houses. 

Popuhition. — In 1817, the inhabitants of this state amount- 
ed to 394,752 persons, which is nearly four persons to a square 
mile. The population is rapidly increasing, and it is supposed 
will be nearly doubled in ten years. A considerable part of 
the state is still inhabited by the Indians; but as dally en- 
croachments are making upon their territory, their numbers 
must naturally decrease. 

Trade and Resources. — This being a new settled country, 
the manufactures are mostly of the domestic kind. The im- 
ports are nearly every description of English goods, and some 
French and India. They are received by way of New Or- 
leans, Baltimore, or Philadelphia. The exports are flour, 
beef, pork, and butter. 

The value of houses and cleared land in this state, in 1815, 
was stated at 61,347,215 dollars; and 505 dollars were ex- 
pended above the sum collected for duties imposed upon mer- 
chandise. The vessels belonging to this state are all small, 
and employed in internal tvadc. 

Government. — The government is legislative and executive, 
with power to provide for, and regulate the judicial and mili- 
tary authority. 



UNITED STATES. Wl 

The legislature consists of two branches ; a senate and house 
of representatives. The representatives must not exceed 72 
members, and are chosen annually by the people, in which 
every free white male who is a citizen of the United States, 
and has resided a year in the state, and paid taxes, shall have 
a vote. The representatives must have the same qualifications, 
and be 25 years of age. 

The senators are chosen biennially by qualified voters for 
representatives, and one half vacate their seats every year. 
They shall never be less than one-third nor more than one-half 
of the representatives. They must, besides the other qualifi- 
cations of the representatives, have resided two years in the 
country, and be 30 years of age. 

The governor is chosen by the electors for the members of 
the general assembly for the term of two years, and is not eli- 
gible for more than six years in eight. He must be 30 years 
©f age, and have been a citizen of the United States 12 years, 
and an inhabitant of the state four years. 

The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, in courts of 
common pleas for each county, in justices of the peace, and 
such other courts as the legislature may appoint. The su- 
preme court consists of three judges, appointed by the assem- 
bly, who hold their offices for seven years. The courts of 
common pleas consist of a president and associate judges, 
chosen in like manner, and for the like terra. A justice court 
is held in each township, and the justices are elected bv the 
inhabitants of the respective towns, and continue in office three 
years. The powers and duties of the justices are from time to 
time regulated and defined by law. This last regulation is a 
peculiar feature in the local jurisprudence of the state, and 
goes far to do away all petty litigation. 

The justices originally had cognizance of all cases where the 
sums did not exceed 30 dollars. Bv an act of the leaislature 
their powers were extended to cases not exceeding 50 dollars, 
which gave rise to a very singular transaction in the state. 
Tic judges of the supreme court refused to put the law in 
execution, alleging that it was contrary to the constitution of 
the United States. They were impeached by the house of re- 



208 VIEW OF THE 

presentativcs ; but it requires two-thirds of the senate to con^ 
vict, and they were saved by a very narrow majority. The 
legislature, to mark their disapprobation of the conduct of the 
judges, raised the sum from 50 to 70 dollars ; and when the 
seven years for which they were appointed expired, they were 
not re-elected. The justice courts have now cognizance of all 
cases where the sums do not exceed 70 dollars. 

The legislature of this state, like many other similar ones, 
are too fond of making laws, and interfering with the private 
affairs of individuals. Swearing is prohibited by law, at the 
rate of a dollar for an oath ; and the law is strictly put in ex- 
ecution. Illegitimate commerce between the sexes is also pro- 
hibited, under pretty heavy penalties; and a law has lately 
been enacted to enforce the marriage covenant, in cases where 
people are disposed to plead a disannullment on the score of 
religion. 



INDIANA. 

Situation and Extent. INDIANA is situated between north 
lat. 37 deg. 47 min. and 41 i\eg. 50 
min., and west long. 7 deg. 40 min. and 10 deg. 45 min. Its 
greatest lensth is 284 miles, and its breadth 155. Its area is 
38,000 square miles, or 24,320,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — The face of the country is hilly, not 
mountainous ; and the scenery is said to be rich and varie- 
gated, a})ounding with plains and large prairies. 

The principal river is the Wabash, which is said to be a 
beautiful stream, 280 yards broad at its outlet, and navigable 
upwards of 220 miles. It rises near the boundary line between 
tlie state of Ohio and Indiana, about 100 miles from lake Erie, 
where there is a portage of only eight miles between it and the 



UNITED STATES. 209 

Miami of the lakes. Its course is nearly south-west, and the 
distance it runs, including its windings, is not less than 500 
miles, A great many tributary streams flow into it, the chief 
of which is White river, upwards of 300 miles long. Tippa- 
canoe river, near which are the largest settlements of Indians 
in the territory, falls into the Wabash ; and it is near the out- 
let of that river where the Prophet is at present collecting his 
forces. 

The soil is said to be generally rich and fertile. The cli- 
mate is delightful, except in the neighbourhood of marshes, 
chiefly confined to the lower parts of the territory. 

The settlements commenced about 22 or 23 years ago, 
and have made considerable progress, though they have been 
retarded by the settlement of the fertile and beautiful state 
of Ohio, which is situated between this and the old states. 
The greater part of the territory is yet subject to Indian 
claims. Where they have been extinguished, and the white 
settlements have been made, it is divided into four comities, 
and 22 townships, the greater part of which*are on the Ohio ; 
and some few on the Wabash and White-water river. The 
inhabitants amounted, by the census of 1800, to 5641 ; they 
now amount to 86,734, being an increase of 81,093 in 17 years. 

The agriculture of the territory is nearly the same as that 
of the state of Ohio. Every kind of grain, grass, and fruit 
comes to maturity ; and towards the southern part of it consi- 
derable crops of cotton are raised, though only for domestic 
use. 

Towns. — The principal town is Vincennes, on the Wabash. 
It is an old settlement, and the inhabitants are mostly of French 
extraction ; they amounted, by last census, to 670. 

Trade. — As the inhabitants make nearly all their own cloth- 
ing, they have little external trade. What little they have is 
down the river to Ne\V Orleans, 

Government. — The constitution or government in this new 
country is similar to that of the other neighbouring states, — 
excellent in theory, but too often vile and corrupt in practice. 
It declares, in pompous language, that all men are free ; but 
if their skins be black, they are not included in this declara- 

* 2 D 



210 VIEW OF THE 

tion, slaves being necessary for the ease and comfort of the 
freemen of Indiana. 

We will now proceed to view the Southern States of the 
Union, agreeably to the arrangement we have adopted. 



MAKYLAND. 



Situation and Extent ^'Rl'^ state is situated between 38 

and 39 ^Qg- 43 min. north lat.y 
and 2 deg. east and 2 deg. 30 min. west long. Its extreme 
length from east to west is 212 miles, and its extreme breadth 
from north to south is 123 ; but it is very irregular. It is 
computed to coiMin about 14,000 square miles, or 8,960,000 
acres, of which about one-fourth is water. 

Natural Geography. — The face of the country is remarka- 
bly variegated. It is bounded on the south-west by the river 
Patomak to its extremity ; and the fine Chesapeake bay, with 
its numerous waters, passes through the middle of it. On the 
east side it presents a coast of about 35 miles to the Atlantic 
ocean : the eastern shore is low, level, and sandy. The coun- 
try continues to rise by a very gentle ascent, but is generally 
level to Baltimore -, it then swells out into a hilly country, and 
the western part stretches across the mountains. 

The Chesapeake bay has already been noticed ; but it merits 
a more particular description, from its vast importance to this 
state, and indeed to the United States generally. This bay is 
formed by the outlet of the Susquehannah river, where it re- 
ceives French creek, and a number of smaller streams; it is 
there about seven miles broad, and so continues to near the 
branch that leads up to Baltimore; from thence it assumes 
various breadths, from ten to fifteen miles, during a course 
downwards of about 70 miles, to near the Patomak river: 



UNITED STATES. Sll 

from thence it stretches out to 25 or 30 miles, during a passage 
of 90 miles more, and finally passes into the Atlantic ocean by 
an outlet of 20 miles broad : the whole course, from north to 
south, is nearly 200 miles, and it receives in its passage the 
whole waters of this state, nearly the whole of the eastern part 
of Virginia, a great part of those of Pennsylvania, and some of 
Delaware ; exhibiting, upon the whole, a greater confluence of 
watei-s than is to be seen in the United States, or almost in the 
world. The principal rivers in Maryland that run into this 
bay, besides the Susquehannah and Patomak, are the Patapsco 
and Patuxent, on the west side; and on the east side. Elk 
river, Sassafras, Chester, Choptank, Nanticoke, and Poco- 
moke, the last of which issues out of Cyprus swamp. There 
are numerous islands in the bay, and the waters abound with 
various kinds offish. The state is generally well watered, and 
abounds with mill-seats. 

The soil is very various, and a great portion of it is but 
poor : towards the eastern shore it is low and sandy, abound- 
ing with swamps : in the interior there are many fertile spots ; 
but the greater part of the land is poor until you pass the first 
ridge of mountains, where there is a fertile valley of twelve or 
fourteen miles broad : fi-om thence the soil is pretty much as- 
similated to the mountainous district of Pennsylvania. 

The climate is as various as the soil: the eastern part is 
pretty similar to Delaware, indicated by a pale, sickly colour 
in the inhabitants. It improves as the land gets hilly, and 
among the mountains is delightful, the summers being cooled 
by fine breezes, while the winters are tempered by a southern 
latitude, which renders them much more mild than to the 
northward. 

Maryland is well supplied Avith iixm ore, and some coal has 
been found, but not in sufficient quantity to make it an object 
of importance. 

This is the first state in which there is a material difference 
of agriculture from the northern states: still, however, the 
staple crop is wheat ; but they raise a considerable quantity of 
tobacco, and some cott(m, though none of the latter for ex- 
portation. All the other grains, grasses, and roots, that grow 



212 VIEW OF THE 

ill the northern state, flourish here ; and the sweet potatoc, a 
root belonging to a warm climate, comes to considerable 
maturity. 

Population. — According to the returns made in 1817, the 
population of this state amounted to 502,710, which, when the 
proportion of water is subtracted, will be about 45 persons to 
a square mile. 

Manners, ^-c. — The inhabitants of this state are distin- 
guished for that gaiety, extravagance, and hospitality, which 
is usually exhibited by slave masters; but this character is 
only applicable to the inhabitants of the most populous dis- 
tricts. Those who resiile in the more remote parts of the 
state ' live (says an American writer) very retired and unsocial 
lives. The effects of this comparative solitude are visible in 
the countenances, as well as in the manners and dress, of the 
country people. Yen observe very little of that cheerful 
sprightliness of look and action which is the invariable and 
genuine offspring of social intercourse. Nor do you find that 
attention paid to dress, which, is common, and which decency 
and propriety have rendered necessary, among people who are 
liable to receive company almost every day. Unaccustomed, 
in a great measure, to these frequent and friendly visits, they 
often suffer a negligence in their dress which borders on slo- 
venliness. There is apparently a disconsolate wildness in their 
countenances, and an indolence and inactivity in their whole 
behaviour, which arc evidently the effects of solitude and sla- 
very. As the negroes perform all the manual labour, their 
masters are left to saunter away life in sloth, and too often in 
ignorance. These observations, however, must in justice be 
limited to the people in the country, and to those particularly 
whose poverty or parsimony prevents their spending a part of 
their time in populous towns, or otherwise mingling with the 
world.' 

The Baltiraorians lay claim to a superior reputation for en- 
terprise and bravery ; and, it must be confessed, they appear 
entitled to it, judging from their shipping, much of which is 
engaged in hazardous pursuits, together with the speculative 
improvements of their town,' and their having, by superior ac- 



UNITED STATES. 213 

tivity, supplanted Philadelphia in pai't of the western country 
trade ; yet the merchants of this city are said to be deficient in 
capital. Of their bravery, history will speak when recording 
their gallant and successful defence of their city, though at- 
tacked by the combined naval and military forces of England. 
Chief Towns. — Baltimoi'e stands on the north side of the 
river Patapscc, which may rather be regarded as a creek of 
the great bay of Chesapeake, and has rapidly risen to its pre- 
sent consequence. The situation is rather low, but it has 
been rendered by art tolerably salubrious. A creek divides it 
into two parts, Baltimore town and Fell's point, to the latter 
of which vessels of 600 tons can sail ; but only small vessels 
can come up to the town. The bason, as it is called, is very 
capacious, and capable of holding 2000 sail. 

At the commencement of the American war, Baltimore was 
but an inconsiderable village ; but such has been the rapidity 
of its growth, that it is now the fourth commercial city in the 
United States. The houses are mostly built of brick, and 
many of them are elegant : the principal public buildings are, 
thirteen places of public worship, a court-house, a jail, three 
market-houses, a poor-house, the exchange, theatre, observa- 
tory, assembly-rooms., and library. The manufactures of Bal- 
timore are considerable, and consist chiefly of ships, cordage, 
iron utensils, paper, saddlery, boots and shoes, hats, wool and 
cotton cards, &c. In the adjoining country there are nume- 
rous mills, furnaces, and forges, which contribute much to the 
trade of the city. 

There are several religious sects, the most numerous of 
which are Roman catholics. Episcopalians^, baptists, presby- 
terians, mcthodists, ^id quakers, have each a respectable num- 
ber of partisans ; and an unitarian chui'ch is now building. 
The architecture of several of the churches displays first-rate 
talent; and it seems not a little surprising, that such ability 
should have been overlooked by the conductors of the national 
buildino-3 at Washington. 

Although this city 70 years ago consisted of only ten houses, 
it now contains 60,000 inhabitants ; and as it is the emporium 
of the state, it must necessarily inci'ease in wealth and import- 



214 VIEW OF THE 

ance. A great portion of the export trade is flour, much of 
which is received from the state of Pennsylvania, through the 
medium of the Susquehannah river; and the citizens have a 
brisk trade in importing and reshipping foreign articles, parti- 
cularly West Indian produce — rum, sugar, and coffee. A 
great portion of the imports are manufactured goods from 
Britain, and, having the supply of an immense back country, 
this is an increasing trade. Many of the people in the western 
states give Baltimore the preference to Philadelphia ; it is 50 
miles nearer to Pittsburg than the latter city, which has a na- 
tural tendency to secure a preference ; and the inhabitants of 
Maryland, who seem to appreciate the importance of this 
trade, have acted with a laudable zeal in making good roads. 
The trade of Baltimore is facilitated by three banks, having 
all ample capitals. One is a branch of the bank of the United 
States. 

The affairs of the city are under the management of a city 
council, consisting of two branches, and a mayor. The police 
seems to be under good regulations, and the streets are kept 
very clean, which secures good health to the citizens. Educa- 
tion is pretty well attended to ; and the citizens are said to be 
hospitable and industrious. The men rank as correct men of 
business. 

North and east of the town the land rises, and affords a fine 
prospect of the town and bay, Belvidera exhibits one of the 
finest landscapes in nature. The town, the point, the shipping 
both in the bason and at FelFs point, the bay as far as the eye 
can reach, rising ground on the right and left of the harbour, 
a grove of trees on the declivity at the right, a stream of water 
breaking over the rocks at the foot of the hill on the left, all 
conspire to complete the beauty and grandeur of the prospect. 

Annapolis is the capital of Maryland, and the wealthiest 
town of its size in America. It is situated just at the mouth 
of Severn rivei*, 30 miles south of Baltimore. It is a place of 
little note in the commercial world. The houses, about SOO 
in number, are generally large and elegant, indicative of great 
wealth. The design of those wi)o planned the city, was to 
have the whole in tin* form of a circle, with the streets, like 



UNITED STATES. 215 

yadii, beginning at the centre where the stadt-house stands, 
and thence diverging in every direction. The principal part 
of the buildings are arranged agreeably to this awkward plan. 
The stadt-house is the noblest building of the kind in America. 
There is a college, a theatre, and two places of public worship 
in the city. It has a harbour, though no great commerce ; 
but, being a pleasant place, it is the residence of a great many 
wealthy people. 

Frederichtown is a large inland town, containing a court- 
house, jail, academy, market-house, and seven places of public 
worship. The inhabitants are about 6000 ; and the town has 
considerable manufactures and inland trade. Hagerstoxmi, 
situated beyond the mountains, contains 2100 inhabitants. 
Besides these, there are a greater number of smaller towns and 
villages, containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants. A great 
number of the farm-houses are built of wood, and they are 
not so substantial, nor so elegant, in general, as those in 
Pennsylvania. 

Trade, ^c. — The value of houses, lands, and slaves, in this 
state, in 1815, was estimated at 122,577,573 dollars ; the land 
being valued at 20 dollars per acre. 

The trade and manufactures of this state have been noticed 
in the account of Baltimore. The duty on merchandise in 
1815 produced 4,202,463 dollars. The tonnage employed 
in foreign trade amounted to 88,161, and in the coasting trade 
to 8529. 

Educatioji. — There are considerable funds appropriated to 
the support of education. There are five colleges, and a 
number of very respectable academies in the state, and com- 
mon schools in every county. 

Religion. — The Roman catholics, who were the first settlers 
in Maryland, are the most numerous religious sect. Besides 
these, there are protestants, episcopalians, English, Scotch, 
and Irish presbyterians, German Calvinists, German Luther- 
ans, friends, baptists, methodists, Mennonists, Nicolites, or 
new quakers. 

Government. — The state is divided into 19 counties. The 
civil government is vested in a governor, senate, and house of 



216 VIEW OF THE 

delegates, all chosen annually. The qualification to vote for 
delegates is a freehold of 50 acres of land, or property to the 
value of SOI. currency. The principles of government are si- 
milar to those of Pennsylvania. 

History. — Maryland was granted by Charles I. to Cecilius 
Calvert, baron of Baltimore, in Ireland, June 20, 1632. The 
government of the province was, by charter, vested in the pro- 
prietary ; but it appears that he either never exercised these 
powers alone, or but for a short time. The hon. Leonard 
Calvert, esq., lord Baltimore's brother, was the first governor, 
or lieutenant-general. His lordship evinced his wisdom, and 
the liberality of his religious opinions, by providing for the free 
exercise of all other religious opinions in the colony. In 1642, 
one Ingle excited a rebellion, and three years passed before 
order was restored. Under the government of Cromwell, the 
exercise of the Roman catholic religion was restrained ; which 
must have been felt extremely oppressive, as the first and prin- 
cipal inhabitants were Catholics. In 1692, the protestant re- 
ligion was established by law. At the commencement of the 
revolutionary war, the state was declared to belong to the citi- 
zens, who delegated five of their number to the first congress. 
The state constitution was framed in 1776, which, with a few 
trifling amendments, still continues. When the independence 
of the United States was acknowledged by England, Henry 
Harford, esq., the natural son and heir of lord Baltimore, pe- 
titioned the legislature of Maryland for his estate; but his 
petition was not granted. Mr. Harford estimated his loss of 
quit-rents, valued at twenty years purchase, and including 
arrears, at 259,488/. 5^., dollars at 7*. 6d ; and the value of 
his manors and reserved lands at 327,441/. of the same money. 



UNITED STATES. 217 



VIKGINIA. 

Situation and Extent. "Y'lRGINIA* is situated between 36 

deg. 30 min. and 39 deg. 43 min. 
north lat., and 1 deg. east and 6 deg. 25 min. west long. The 
extreme length of the state from east to west is 442 miles, and 
the extreme breadth from the North Carolina line to the Penn- 
sylvania line is 235 ; but it may be observed that there is a 
small part of the state that stretches along the banks of the 
Ohio, to the west of Pennsylvania, about 60 miles long, and 
on an average 10 broad ; and there is another small part, 
about 55 miles long and 12 broad, to the east of the Chesa- 
peake. The area is computed at 75,000 square miles, being 
nearly as large as the whole island of Britain, computed at 
77,243. The number of acres in Virginia is 48,000,000. 

Natural Geograplvy. — The face of the country is somewhat 
assimilated to Pennsylvania, including Jersey, Delaware, and 
Maryland. The eastern part extends along the sea coast 
about 115 miles, of which the outlet of the Chesapeake, al- 
ready noticed, occupies 20 ; and this elegant confluence of 
waters, so often referred to, forms a great variety in this part 
of the state. From the sea coast to the head of the tide wa- 
ters, about 100 miles, the country is mostly level, and abounds 
with swamps. From thence to the mountains it is agreeably 
uneven, and affords delightful prospects. The mountainous 
district is about 100 miles in breadth, and the ridges contmue, 
as in Pennsylvania, to range from north-east to south-west. 
Beyond the mountains the country is much variegated, here 
swelling out into considerable hills, there subsiding into agree- 

• The geography of this important state I.as been ably illustrated in Mr. Jeffer- 
son's Notes, written in 1781. Though many alterations have been made in the 
circumstances of the state since that time, still this work contains much vjiluable 
«nd interesting information. 

10 2 !■ 



218 VIEW OF THE 

able vallies; and so continues to the Ohio, about 60 miles. 
The Alleghany chain is the ridge which divides the waters of 
the Atlantic from the IMississippi, and its summit is more ele- 
vated above the ocean than that of the others : but its relative 
height, compared with the base on which it stands, is not so 
great, because the coiuitry rises behind the successive ridges 
like steps of stairs. 

The whole of the Atlantic rivers have been already noticed ; 
the others are but few. The state is watered to the westward 
by the Ohio upwards of 240 miles, and the Great Sandy river 
forms the boundary, for upwards of 100 miles, between it and 
Kentucky. The most important river to the westward is the 
Great Kanhaway, ' a river of considerable note for the fertility 
of its lands, and still more, as leading towards the head waters 
of James river. Nevertheless, it is doubtful whether its great 
and numerous falls will admit a navigation but at an expence 
to which it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal. 
The great obstacles begin at what are called the great falls, 90 
miles above its mouth, below which are only five or six rapids, 
and these passable, with some difliculty, even at low water. 
From the falls to the mouth of Greenbriar is 100 miles, and 
thence to the lead mines 120. It is 280 yards wide at its 
mouth.'' 

The little Kanhaway is 150 yards wide at the mouth, and 
is navigable for 10 miles only. 

The Shenandoah river rises in the interior of the countrv, 
and running a north-east course, of about 250 miles, through 
the great Limestone valley, parallel to the mountains, falls into 
the Patomak just above the Blue ridge. The junction of the 
rivers, and the passage through the Blue ridge, is said to be 
one of the finest scenes in nature, and has been described in 
our general view of the United States. 

There are a great variety of minerals and mineral springs in 
the state. Iron is very plentiful, and several mines of lead 
have been opened. Some copper, black-lead, and precious 
stones have been found, and in one instance gold was disco- 
vered. Limestone is plentiful, and coal is abundant at Rich- 
mond, in some places among the mountains, and in the western 



UNITED STATES. 219 

coiintry. Of the mineral springs, the warm and hot springs 
and the sweet spring, are the most remarkahle. They are 
situated near the sources of James river, at the foot of the Al- 
leghany mountains, about 42 miles apart. They are now well 
known, and much resorted to. There are sulphur springs in 
several places ; and on the Kanhaway river, 67 miles from its 
outlet, there is a very remarkable air spring. 

The soil in the low part of the state is sandy, except on the 
banks of the rivers, where it is very rich. Between the head 
of the tide- waters and the mountains, it exhibits a great variety, 
and a considerable portion is good. Among the mountains 
there is a great deal of poor land, but it is interspersed with 
rich vallies. Beyond the mountains the soil is generally rich 
and fertile. 

The climate of Virginia is very various, and is subject to 
great and sudden changes. In the greater part of the country 
below the head of the tide-waters, the summers are hot and 
sultry, and the winters mild. From thence to the foot of the 
mountains the air is pure and elastic, and both summers and 
winters are several degrees of temperature below the low 
country. Among the mountains, the sunmiers are delightful, 
though sometimes the heat is very great. To the westward 
the climate is temperate, the .summers being cooler and the 
winters warmer than on the sea coast, Except in the neiglu 
bourhood of stagnant waters in the low country, Virginia has, 
upon the whole, a healthy climate. 

The state has of late been considerably improved by roads, 
but in that branch much remains to be done. The canal con- 
tompL'ited by Mr. Jefferson between the waters of the Chesa- 
peake and ^Vlbemarle sound has been ciit. It is 16 miles in 
length, and answers a most valuable pui-pose. Considerable 
improvements have been made upon the navigation of the 
Shenandoah river; and there are several very important roads 
and canals projected. 

The principal branches of agriculture for exportation are 
wheat and tobacco; and the farms produce in plenty, Indian 
corn, rye, barley, buck-wheat, &c. Hemp and flax are abun- 
dant, and considerable quantities of cotton are raised in the 



VIEW OF THE 

southern part of the state. Indigo is cuhivated with success, 
and the silk-worm is a native of the country, though not much 
attended to. The fields likewise produce potatoes, both sweet 
and connnon, turnips, parsnips, carrots, pumpkins, and ground 
nuts ; and of grasses, there are clovers, red, white, and yellow, 
timothy, ray, greensward, blue grass, and crab grass. The 
orchards abound in fruit ; apples, pears, peaches, quinces, 
cherries, nectarines, apricots, almonds, and plums. The do- 
mestic animals thrive well, horses, cows, sheep, hogs, poultry ; 
and there is a great variety of wild game. 

Population. — The population of this state in 1817 amounted 
to 1,34<7,496, which is 18 persons to a square mile. 

Manners, ^c, — The character of the Virginians has been 
often described ; but all writers agree in ascribing most of 
their errors and crimes to the system of slavery established 
amongst them. An English writer says, that < the climate and 
external appearance of the country conspire to make them in- 
dolent, easy, and good-natured ; extremely fond of society, 
and much given to convivial pleasoi-es. In consequence of 
this, they seldom show any spirit of enterprise, or expose 
themselves willingly to fatigue. Their authority over their 
slaves renders tliein vain and imperious, and entire strangers 
to that elegance of sentiment which is so peculiarly character- 
istic of refined and polished nations. Their ignorance of n)an- 
kind and of learning exposes them to many errors and preju- 
dices, especially in regard to Indians and negroes, whom they 
scarcely consider as of the human species ; so that it is almost 
impossible, in cases of violence, or even murder, committed 
upon those unhappy people by any of the planters, to have 
the delinquents brovight to justice; for either the grand jury 
refuse to find the bill, or the petit jury bring in their verdict, 
not guilty. 

' The display of a character thus constituted will naturally 
be in acts of extravagance, ostentation, and a disregard of eco- 
nomy : it is not extraordinary, therefore, that the Virginians 
outrun their incomes; and that having involved themselves in 
difficulties, they are frequently tempted to raise money by bills 
of exchange, which they know will be returned protested, with 



UNITED STATES. 221 

10 per cent, interest. The public or political character of the 
Virginians corresponds with their private one: they are 
haughty and jealous of their liberties, impatient of restraint, 
and can scarcely bear the thought of being controled by any 
superior power. 

' 'J.'he women are, upon tlie whole, rather handsome, though 
not to be compared with our fair countrywomen in England. 
They have but few advantages, and consequently are seldom 
accomplished ; this makes them reserved, and unequal to any 
interesting or refined conversation. They are immoderately 
fond of dancing, and indeed it is almost the only amusement 
they partake of: but even in this they discover great want of 
taste and elegance, and seldom appear with that gracefulness 
and ease which these movements are so calculated to display. 
Towai'ds the close of an evening, wjien the company are pretty 
well tired of country dances, it is usual to dance jigs; a prac- 
tice originally borrowed, I am informed, from the negroes. 
These dances are without any method or regularity. A gen- 
tleman and lady stand up, and dance about the room, one of 
them retiring, the other pursuing, then perhaps meeting, in 
an irregular fantastical manner. After some time, another 
lady gets up ; and then the first lady must sit down, she be- 
ing, as they term it, cut out. The second lady acts the same 
part which the first did, till somebody cuts her out. The 
gentlemen perform in the same manner. The Virginian la- 
dies, excepting their amusements, and now and then a party of 
pleasure into the woods to partake of a barbacue, chiefly spend 
their time hi sewing and taking care of their families. They 
seldom read, or endeavour to improve their minds. However, 
they are in general good housewives ; and though they have 
not, I think, quite so much tenderness and sensibility as the 
English ladies, yet they make as good wives, and as good mo- 
thei-s, as any in the world.' This character was drawn from 
personal observation, and, in general, appears to be just. 

* The young men,' another traveller observes, ' generally 
speaking, are gamblers, cock-fighters, and horse-jock ies. To 
hear them converse, you would imagine that the grand point 
of all science w.is properly to fix a gaff, and touch, Avith dexte- 



522 VIEW OF THE 

rity, the tail of a cock while in combat. He who won the last 
match, the last game, or the last horse-race, assumes the airs 
of a hero or German potentate. The ingenuity of a Locke, 
or the discoveries of a Newton, are considered as iniinitelv in- 
ferior , to the accomphshments of him who knows when to 
shoulder a blind cock, or start a fleet horse.*' A spirit for lite- 
rary enquiries, if not altogether confined to a few, is, among 
the body of the people, evidently subordinate to a spirit of 
gaming and barbarous sports. At almost every tavern or or- 
dinary on the public road there is a billiard table, a backgam- 
mon table, cards, and other implements for various games. 
To these public houses the gambling gentry in the neighbour- 
hood resort, to kill time, which hangs heavily upon them ; and 
at this business they are extremely expert, having been accus- 
tomed to it from their earliest youth. The passion for cock- 
fio'hting, a diversion not only inhumanly barbarous, but 
infinitely beneath the dignity of a man of sense, is so predo- 
mmant, that they even advertise their matches in the public 
newspapers This dissipation of manners is the fruit of indo- 
lence and luxury, which arise from the system of African 
slavery. 

Cliief Toxons. — Kiclimond'x^ handsomely situated on James 
river, innnediately below the falls. It is a large elegant city, 
consisting of more than 1200 liouses, and contains about 
10,000 inhabitants. The state-house stands on an eminence, 
and is considei'ed the handsomest building in the state, having 
spacious apartments for the meetings of the legislature, and 
commodious rooms for the transaiition of the public business of 
the state. The other public buildings are, the court-house, 
jail, and theatre, two places for public worship, a free mason's 
hallj and three tobacco warehouses. Richmond is situated in 
a fertile healthy country, and is well supplied with ])rovisions ; 
and it is flourishing in manufactures and commerce. There 
is an armoury in the neighbourhood, said to be the best in the 
United States. The city is remarkably well situated for mill- 
seats;, some of the finest flour-mills in the state have lately 
been erected, and the quantity of flour manufactured annually 
is innnense. There are also rolling and slitting mills, oil-mills. 



UNITED STATES. 223 

and several others; and several extensive distilleries and 
breweries. Richmond carries on a considerable trade, princi- 
pally in tobacco and flour, with many places of the United 
States, particularly New York, which in return supplies it with 
drv jjoods and oroceries. The inhabitants here, like those in 
the sea-ports, are mostly dressed in British manufactures, and 
are very gay. Gambling is the favourite diversion of the peo- 
ple, and is constantly practised without the smallest degree of 
secresy. ' On alighting at a tavern,'' says Mr. Weld, ' the 
landlord immediately asked what game was most congenial to 
my inclinations, as he could conduct me, according to my wish, 
either to a faro, hazard, or billiard table. These apartments 
are always crowded with gamesters, and the doors are only 
shut to exclude the lowest order of the people, who, however, 
contrive to find a similar amusement at some petty house of 
accommodation. The taverns beins; thus infested is a disasree- 
able circumstance to a traveller who is blest with a different 
bent of inclination, as every room is considered common, and 
the place where a stranger wishes to seclude himself from the 
eye" of public observation, is always the most frequented."* 

Norfolk is a large town, containing nearly the same number 
of inh.abitants as Richmond. It is a place of very extended 
commerce, principally in flour and tobacco, and its conuirerce 
and population will probably continue to encrease for a long 
period. Mr. Jefferson remarks, in his Notes, 'that it will 
probably be the emporium for all the trade of the Chesapeake 
bay and its waters, and a canal of eight or ten miles will bring 
tu it all that of the Albemarle sound and its waters.' But it is 
to be observed, that the Chesapeake bay and its waters are 
navigable a long way into the interior of the country, in conse- 
([uence of which, probably no single town or city will be the 
emporium for all the trade; it will be divided among many. 
We accordingly find numerous towns upon these waters, of 
which the following may be noticed. 

On Rappahannoc, Urbamia, Port Rmjal, Falmouth. Frc- 
der'ul:shurg is situated on the south-west side of this river. It 
is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one another at right 
angles, and consists of about 'JOO houses, containing about 



S24 VIEW OF THE 

1600 inhabitants. The principal pubhc buildings are an epis- 
copal church, an academy, court-house, and jail. It carries on 
a considerable trade, principally in floiu' and tobacco. 

On Patomak and its A\aters, Dumfries, Colchester, Winches- 
ter, Staunton. 

On York river and its waters, Yorlx, Newcastle, Hanover. 

On James river and its waters, Fortsmoufh, Hampton, Siif- 
Jhlk, SmitJifield, Williamsburg, Manchester., Charlottesville. 
Petersburg is situated on this river, immediately below the 
falls, and is a place of considerable wealth and importance, 
carrying on a great trade in tobacco and flour, a considerable 
portion of which is with New York. The population, in 
1800, was 2034 free people and 1481 slaves. The population 
is said to be composed principally of Irish "people, and they 
are distinguished for frank liberal manners, and high-spirited 
patriotism. The principal public buildings are, two places 
for public worsliip, a court-house, jail, and free mason''s hall. 
The market is well . supplied with provisions; and there are 
numerous mills in and about the town. 

There is no very important town in the western part of the 
state. Wheeling, on the Ohio, will probably increase more 
than any othei*. 

Trade and Resources, — The interior trade of this state was 
never o^ much importance. The manufactures are mostly of 
the domestic kind ; and such is the attachment of the Virgi- 
nians to agriculture, that there is no doubt they will continue 
for a considerable time to exchange the raw material for the 
manufacture of foreign nations. 

The value of houses, lands, and slaves, in this state in 1815, 
by the assessors' return, was 26^5,737,6*99 dollars ; the average 
value of land being estimated at 4 dollars 15 cents per acre. 
The gross revenue ari^^ing from (hities on merchandise was 
1,254,144 dollars. The shipping employed in foreign trade 
amounted to 31,152 tons, and in the coa.sting trade to 6549 
tons. 

Education. — There are two colleges in the state; one of 
them the college of William and Mary, very liberally endowed. 
There are several academies and schools in each county ; and 



UNITED STATES. 225 

there are numerous teachers hi private families, as tutors. 
The means, in short, for educating the wealthy are ample, 
and extensively applied ; but the system seems to be defective, 
so far as the mass of the people are concerned, and that im- 
portant branch deserves the early attention of an enlightened 
legislature; as the pride, the independence, and the indo- 
lence of one class, and the thoughtlessness and poverty of 
the other, present foi-midable obstacles to the progress of 
knowledge. 

Relig'ioji. — The first settlers in this state were English epis- 
copalians, and they seemed to emulate the bigotry and intole- 
rance of their presbyterian brethren in New England. But 
the vigilance and activity of the government in supporting the 
established church begot security and indolence in the clergy ; 
people of vai'ious religious opinions began to creep into the 
state ; and, within a century, the episcopalians found them- 
selves subdued by superior spirit and determination. 

An act passed the Virginia assembl}^, in the beginning of 
1786, in which it is declared, tliat, being ' well aware that Al- 
mighty God hath created the mind free ; that all attempts to 
influence it by temporal punishments or burthens, or by civil 
incapacitations, tend only to beget habits of hypocrisy and 
meanness, and are a departure from the plan of the holy Au- 
thor of our religion, who being Lord over both body and mind, 
yet chose not to propagate it by coercions in either, &c. Be 
it therefore enacted by the general assembly, That no man 
shall be compelled to frequent or support any religious wor- 
ship, place, or ministry whatsoever, nor shall be enforced, re- 
strained, molested, or burthened in his body or goods, nor shall 
otherwise suffer on account of his religious opinions or belief; 
but that all men shall be free to profess, and by arguments to 
maintain their opinions in matters of religion ; and that the 
same shall in no wise diminish, enlarge, or affect their civil 
capacities."' 

The episcopalians, or, as Mr. Jefferson calls them, the 
' Anglicans,"' have, comparatively, but few ministers among 
them ; and these few, when they preach, which is seldom more 
than once a week, preach to very thin congregations. The 

2 F 



VIEW OF THE 

presbvterians, in proportion to their numbers, have more mi- 
nisters, who officiate oftener, and to larger audiences. The 
baptists and methodists are generally supplied by itinerant 
pi'eachers, who have large and promiscuous audiences, and 
preach almost every day, and often several times in a day. 
The bulk of these religious sects are of the poorer sort of peo- 
ple, and many of them are very ignorant, (as is indeed the case 
with the other denominations,) but they are generally a moral, 
well-meaning set of people. They exhibit much zeal in their 
worship, which appears to be composed of the mingled effu- 
sions of piety, enthusiasm, and superstition. 

Government. — The following are the outlines of the form of 
state government : 

' The executive powers are lodged in the hands of a go- 
vernor, chosen annually, and incapable of acting any more 
than three years in seven. He is assisted by a council of eight 
members. The judiciary powers are divided among several 
courts. Legislation is exercised by two houses of assembly ; 
the one called the House of Delegates, composed of two mem- 
bers from each county, chosen annually by the citizens pos- 
sessing an estate for life in 100 acres of uninhabited land, or 
25 acres with a house and lot on it, or a house or lot in some 
town. The other, called the Senate, consisting of 24 members, 
chosen quadrenially by the same electors, who, for this pur- 
pose, are distributed into 24 districts. The concurrence of 
both houses is necessary to the passing of a law : they have 
the appointment of the governor and council, the judges of the 
superior courts, auditors, attorney-general, treasurer, register 
of the land-office, and delegates to congress."" 

The state is divided into an eastern and western district, and 
90 counties. 

History. — We have already noticed the first settlement of 
Virginia. On the arrival of lord Delaware in 1610, the colony 
acquired permanency and respectability, which was further 
increased by a young gentleman named Rolf, who married the 
daughter of an Indian chief. In 1621, the company of pro- 
prietors obtained a charter for settling the government of the 
state ; but shortly after, the king and company quarrelled, 



UNITED STATES. m 

and, by a mixture of law and force, the latter were ousted of 
all their rights, without retribution, after having expended 
100,000/. in establishing the colony, without the smallest aid 
from government. King James I. took the govei*nment into 
his own hands. Both sides had their partisans in the colony : 
but the people of the colony in general thought them- 
selves little concerned in the dispute. But they did not re- 
main so long. The northern parts of their country were 
granted away to the lords Baltimore and Fairfax, the first of 
these obtaining also the rights of separate jurisdiction and go- 
vernment. And in 1650, the parliament, considering itself as 
standing in the place of their deposed king, and as having 
succeeded to all his powers, without as well as within the 
realm, began to assume a right over the colonies, passing an 
act for inhibiting their trade with f^/reign nations. This suc- 
cession to the exercise of the kingly authority gave the first 
colour for parliamentary interference with the colonies, and 
produced that fatal pi'ecedent which they continued to follow 
after they had retired, in other respects, within their proper 
functions. When this colony, therefore, which still maintain- 
ed its opposition to Cromwell and the parliament, was induced, 
in 1651, to lay down their arms, they previously secured their 
most important rights, by a solemn convention. 

This convention was, however, infringed by subsequent 
kings and parliaments, until the revolution, which the Virgi- 
nians supported with great energy and success. They still 
maintain great influence in the public councils, and have 
thereby incurred the jealousy of their neighbours. 



228 VIEW OF THE 



KENTUCKY. 

Situation and Extent. JJ^ENTUCKY is situated between 36 

dcg. 30 min. and 39 deg. north 
lat, and 5 and 12 deg. west long. Its greatest length is 328 
miles, and its greatest breadth 183. Its area is 52,000 square 
miles, or 33,280,000 acres. 

Natural Gcographij. — The face of the country is generally 
uneven, some of it rough and hilly ; and towards the east there 
are considerable spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which di- 
vide the state from Virginia. The Ohio river washes the state 
to the north and north-west, 874 miles ; and the Mississippi on 
the west, 57; the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers pass 
partly through it. Big Sandy river forms the boundary line 
a considerable way on the east ; and Licking river, Kentucky 
river, Rolling river, and Green river, are all very considerable 
streams. There is a vast variety of small streams, and the 
state has the appearance of being well watered ; but in some 
places it is not. The stratum under the soil is limestone, 
throughout the whole state : it has a great depth, and seems 
to be chequered with innumerable fissures, which let the water 
pass. On this account, there are some places where water is 
not to be found in summer, and the greater part of the rivers 
have Avorn down their beds I'rom 100 to 300 feet below the 
surface of the earth. From the circumstance of the rivers 
being so confined between high banks, they roll down their 
waters to a great depth in freshets : it is no uncommon thing 
for the Kentucky river to rise from 40 to 50 feet. 

The state is said to be rather defective in iron, the most 
useful of all the metals : but there are, notwithstanding, nu- 
merous iron forges. Marble is found in the state, but is not 
plentiful : coal is found in some places ; and a few specimens 
of lead, copperas, and alum have been found : limestone is a 



UNITED STATES. 229 

most plentiful commodity. There are various mineral springs, 
but the most useful are the salt springs ; though they are now 
of less importance, since the discovery of the valuable salt 
springs upon the Kanhaway. 

The soil in this state has all the gradations from the very 
best to the very worst ; but there is, upon the whole, a great 
body of good soil in the state. The general character is chalk, 
covered with a stratum of vegetable earth from eight to twelve 
feet in depth. A want of water in the summer season is much 
felt, except in the vicinity of great rivers and their principal 
dependent streams. 

Indian corn is raised here in vast abundance, and almost 
without labour. Stock of various kinds is raised for the New 
Orleans, southern, and Atlantic markets. Pork is well fed, 
and of excellent quality. Beef is also of good quality, and tlie 
stock has received considerable attention by the mixturfe of 
English breeds. 

The climate is more steady than in the eastern states, and is 
upon the whole favourable. Heat and cold do not go to ex- 
tremes; the thermometer in summer being seldom above 80 
degrees, or in winter below 25. The climate is said to agree 
well with English constitutions. 

Population. — The population of this state in 1817 amounted 
to 683,753, which is rather more than 13 persons to a square 
mile. In 1790, the population was estimated at 73,677. As 
the emigrations are still going on, and likely to continue, par- 
ticularly from the southern states, the inhabitants will yet 
greatly increase, though probably not so rapidly as heretofore. 
The Insecurity of the land-titles, and the slave trade, are so 
many barriers in the way with the people from the northern 
states, from whence there is the areatest degree of emiiiration : 
and there being so much fine land to the westward, a number 
of the poorer people will go there, where they can get land 
cheap. However, it is to be presumed that this latter circum- 
stance will have a tendency to improve the morals of the state, 
as it will purge it of many o^ i\\c pionecj-s. 

Manners^ <S^-c. — The character of the inhabitants of this state 
is abvays represented in a most unfavourable light. A late 



230 VIEW OF THE 

traveller, who viewed the United States as the garden of Eden, 
and the people as the elect of the earth, confesses that the vices 
of gaming and swearing are carried to a most inconceivable 
height. ' At Frankfort,' says he, ' I saw a vagabond in the 
penitentiary, who had picked out his neighbour'^s eyes ; and a 
man who sailed down the river with us told me he saw a fight, 
in Avhich the combatants grappled one another with their teeth : 
one lost his lip, and the other his nose. In Kentucky, and 
indeed in the western country generally, there is a vast ma- 
jority of civil, discreet, well-disposed people, who will hold the 
lawless and disobedient in check, and in time correct the mo- 
rals of the whole. Slavery is no doubt hurtful to society, but 
it is probably more ameliorated in this state than in any other 
part of the world. Indeed, so much is this the case, that the 
blacks are generally as well fed, and nearly as well clothed, as 
the white people ; and it is questionable whether they work so 
hard. A gentleman of very excellent information told me that 
he did not think the produce of their labour was equal to their 
maintenance. To me it appeared that they were better fed, 
better lodged, and better clothed, than many of the peasantry 
in Britain. Still, however, slavery, under any amelioration, is 
a bitter draught ; and though thousands in all ages have been 
made to drink of it, it is no less bitter on that account. The 
insecurity of land titles has also been much against the state, 
not only bv pi'eventing emigrants of property from going to it, 
but also by encouraging litigation, a most baneful circumstance 
in any country; but it is to be remarked that the legislature 
have lately taken measures to place this business on a solid 
and respectable form. 

' Being sprung from the state of Virginia, the manners of 
that people have given the tone to those of this state, which 
appears in a spirit of high independence, quick temper, and 
frank generosity. The only serious evil that I had to com- 
plain of in my journey through the country arose from the 
proneness of many of the natives to swearing. This vice is 
too common ; and though 'tis true that " it will neither break 
a man's leg, nor pick his pocket," yet it may stun his ears 
most unmercifully. This was literally the case with me: I 



UNITED STATES. 231 

found the country as bad, in that respect, as Ii^eland itself. 
Indeed, it appears to me that there is a considerable simihtude 
between the Irish people and tlie Mrginians, in more respects 
than this : frank, affable, polite, and hospitable in a high de- 
gree, they are quick in their temper, sudden in their resent- 
ment, and warm in all their affections."' 

Another English traveller says, ' I do not feel myself com- 
petent to confirm or deny the general claim of the Kentuckians 
to generosity and warmth of character ; of their habits I would 
wish to speak with diffidence ; that they drink a great deal, 
swear a great deal, and gamble a great deal, will be apparent 
to a very brief resident. The barbarous practice o'i gougmg^ 
with which they are charged, I have not seen occur, tlK)Ugh I 
have good reason to believe in its existence. They have also 
another practice, nearly akin to this, called "gander-pulling."" 
This divej'slon consists in tying a live gander to a tree or pole, 
greasing its neck, riding past it at full gallop, and he who suc- 
ceeds in pulling off the head of the victim, receives the laurel 
crown. I think I have heard of a similar joa,?^? me as practised 
in Holland ; but these are not to be taken as unmixed charac- 
teristics. 

* On leaving Kentucky, I have to regret that so much re- 
mains to be done for the habits of the people, and to feel from 
my soul the most sincere sorrow, that men who can form a 
theoretic constitution, in which it is declared, that " men when 
they form a social compact are equal ; that no man or set of 
men are entitled to exclusive, . separate public emoluments or 
privileges from the community, but in consideration of public 
services; that all men have a natural and indefeasible right to 
worship God according to the dictates of their consciences ;'"' I 
cannot, I say, but feel sorrow that men who can in theory lay 
down such principles, can in their practice continue, and even 
boast of the most demoralizing habits, treat their fellow crea- 
tures like brute beasts, and buy and sell human beings like 
cattle at a fiiir."* 

Chief' Toxons. — Lexington is the seat of justice of Fayette 
county, and is situated in the heart of a most beautifvd country, 
on a branch of Elkhorn river. It is one of the earliest settle- 



282 VIEAV OF THE 

ments in tlie western country, and is coeval with tlu- battle of 
Lexington, the news of which having reached the early settlers, 
they conferred on it tlie present name. It has since flourished 
in a wonderful degree, and now contains 4827 inl)abitants. 
By the census of 1800, it contained 2400, so that it has nearly 
doubled its population in 10 years; and as it is increasing in 
manufactures and wealth, and the adjoining country rapidly 
settling up, there is every probability that it will increase in 
the same ratio for a considerable time to come. Lexington 
has a very neat court-house, market-house, jail, four churches, 
and a bank. There is a very excellent seminary of learning, 
under the managenient of special trustees, which is supported 
by about 70,000 acres of land ; and there is a public library, 
a valuable establishment, with a youtlfs library attached to it. 
Thi-ee newspaj^ers are published in the town, and papers are 
received by mail from all quarters of the union. There are a 
number of valuable manufactories ; and a steam-mill was re- 
cently put in motion, which is of great advantage to the town 
and neighbourhood. There are four principal taverns, all 
under good management, and there are about 30 retail stores, 
and two book-stores. 

The principal manufactures of Lexington are of hemj), to 
which the labour of tlie black people is well adapted, and of 
which the country yields amazing crops, at the low price of 
four dollars per cwt. ; being at the rate of 181. sterling per 
ton. Tliere are thirteen extensive rope-walks, five bagging 
manufactories, and one of duck. The manufactures of hemp 
alone are estimated at 500,000 dollars. The other principal 
manufactories are, eight cotton factories, three woollen manu- 
I'actoi'ies, and an oil-cloth factory. The other professions are, 
masons and stone-cutters, brick-makers, carpenters, cabinet- 
makers, coopers, turners, machine-makers, smiths, nailors, 
copj)er and tin-smiths, brass-founders, gun-smiths, silver- 
smiths, watch-makers, tanners, curriers, saddlers, boot and 
shoe-makers, butchers, bakers, brewers, distillers, stocking- 
makers, dyers, tailors, tobacconists, soap-boilers, candle-mak- 
ers, brush-makers, potters, painters, confectioners, glovers and 
breeches-makers, struw-bonnet-makersj and hatters. As this 



UNITED STATES. 233 

place is rapidly increasing, manufactures are so of course;, 
workmen are mostly always in demand, the more so as indus- 
trious journeymen very soon become- masters. 

' The woollen manufactory ,"" says a recent traveller, ' the 
steam grist-mill, and a glass-house, are on a tolerably large 
scale : the two former are said not to pay the proprietors. In 
the main street, Engilsh goodn abound in as great profusion 
as in Chcapside. A iirst-rate shop sells every thing; keeps a 
stock of from 20 to 30.000 dollars ; annual returns may be 
50,000 dollars, upon half of which they give from 6 to 18 
months' credit. Some of their goods they import direct from 
England, but more commonly purchase at Philadelphia ; their 
journey for which purpose, to and from that city, occupies 
them three months: goods average 50 days in arriving. A 
house at Pittsburg advances money in payment of carriage, 
and attends to the receipt of the goods by waggon and their 
shipment by boats, for which the dealer here pays 5 per cent, 
conmiission. The credit which they receive at Philadelphia is 
from six to seven months; but they can seldom pay at the 
specified time, and ai'e then charged 7 per cent, interest. 
Shopkeeping has been very profitable, but it certainly is now 
over-done : all complain that trade is extremely dull. I re- 
mark what appears to me an universal and most important 
error in all the stores, — too large a stock : by this means, 
tradesmen, in every country, are exposed to lose as much as 
by bad debts. Some of the best-informed inhabitants are of 
opinion that cotton, woollen, linen, and stocking-making would 
succeed, if large capital, with competent and varied skill, were 
employed ; but in these opinions I place little confidence. 

' The imports are, nearly every description of English goods, 
and some French and India : these are received via New Or- 
leans, Baltimore, or Philadelphia ; chiefly the two latter cities. 
The exports are flour, beef, pork, and butter. The town 
contains two chartered banks and one unchartered, all in re- 
spectable credit ; a branch of "' The United States' Bank" is 
also just cstal)lished there; the paper money system has gone 
beyond all bounds throughout tiie western country. Specie 

2 G 



^U VIEW OF THE 

of the smallest amount is rarely to be seen, and the little which 
does exist is chiefly cut Spanish dollars, which are divided into 
bits of 50, 25, and 12i cents. Notes of 3|J., 6ld.^ 13c?., and 
2,?. 2c/. are very common; indeed they constitute an important 
part of the circulating inedium."' 

' The town is built upon the model of Philadelphia ; and 
should it ever become as large, which I think not improbable, 
its whole appearance will be more pleasing. There are five 
churches belonging to methodlsts, episcopalians, presbyterians, 
quakers, and baptists : two others, large in size and handsome 
in appearance, are now erecting. The school-house, when the 
whole plan is completed, will be a fine and extensive structure. 
In the first apartment, on the ground-floor, the Lancasterian 
plan is already in successful operation : I counted 150 scholars, 
among whom were children of the most respectable persons in 
the town ; or, to use an American phrase, " of the first stand- 
ing."" The school-house is, like most establishments in this 
country, a joint stock concern. The terms for education, in 
the Lancasterian department, are, to share-holders, 11*. 3d. 
per quai'ter ; others, 13.9. 6d. There are in the same building 
three other departments (not Lancasterian) ; two for instruc- 
tion in history, geography, and the classics ; and the superior 
department for teaching languages. Males and females are 
taught in the same rooms, but sit on opposite sides. The 
terms for the historical, &c. department are, to share-holders, 
22.S. 6d. per quarter; others, 27*. There were present 21 
males and 19 females. In the department of languages, the 
charge is, to share-holders, 36*. per quarter ; others, 45*. 
Teachers are paid a yearly salary by the company : these 
men are, I believe. New Englanders, as are the schoolmasters 
in the western country generally. 

' I also visited a poor half-starved, civil schoolmaster : he 
has two miserable rooms, for which he pays 22*. 6d. per 
month : the number of scholars, both male and female, is 28: 
the terms for all branches 13*. 6d. per quarter : he complains 
of great difticulty in getting paid ; and also of the untameahle 
insubordination of his scholars. The superintendant of the 



UNITED STATES. 235 

Lancasterian school informs me, that they could not attempt 
to put in practice the greater part of" the punishments as di- 
rected by the founder of that system.'' 

Since partof tlie works were published, from which the above 
account is extracted, the population of this place has greatly in- 
creased, and at present amounts to about 10,000. But this 
rapid advance cannot continue, as property is as high here as 
in Philadelphia, and all occupations are filled. The future 
progress of this town, though certain, must be gradual. 

The country for 20 miles round Lexington is remarkably 
beautiful and fertile, and will probably become very populous. 

Louisville is situated opposite the falls of the Ohio, on an 
elevation of 70 feet above the river, and extends along it from 
Bear Grass creek nearly half a mile. Its breadth is about half 
that distance. It is regularly laid out, with streets crossing- 
one another at right angles ; but the principal buildings are 
confined to one street. It consists of about 250 houses, many 
of them handsome brick buildings. Being a place of great 
resort on the river, it has an ample number of taverns and 
stores. Except the manufacture of ropes, rope-yarn, and cot- 
ton-bagging, which are carried on witii spirit, there are no 
other manufactures of importance at Louisville, and the trades- 
men are such as are calculated for the country. The price of 
labour here is nearly tlie same as at Cincinnati. Some articles 
of provision are dearer, this being a more convenient port for 
shipping limn any above it. Flour sells for 5 dollars 50 cents 
per ban-el ; meal 50 cents per cwt. Boarding is from 1 dollar 
25 cents to 2 dollars per week. Louisville, being the princi- 
pal port of the western part of the state of Kentucky, is a 
market for the purchase of all kinds of produce, and the quan- 
tity that is annually shipped down the river is immense. 

' As to the state of society ,'' observes Jvlclish, ' I cannot say 
much. The place is composed of people from all quarters, 
who are principally engaged in commerce ; and a great num- 
ber of the traders on the Ohio are constantly at this place, 
wb.ose example will be nothing- in favour of the young ; and 
slavery is against society every where. There are several 



236 VIEW OF THE 

schools, but none of tliem are under public patronage ; and 
education seems to be but indifferently attended to. Upon the 
whole, I nuist say, that the state of public morals admits of 
considerable improvement here ; but indeed I saw Louisville 
at a season when a number of the most respectable people 
were out of the place. Those M'ith whom I had business were 
gentlemen, and I hope there are a sufficient number of them 
to check the progress of gaming and ckinking, and to teach 
the young and the thoughtless, that mankind, without virtue 
and industry, cannot be happy .'' 

This town is favourably situated for trade, being the con- 
necting link between New Orleans and the whole western 
country. It must soon take the lead of Lexington in extent 
of population, as it has already done in the rapid rise of town 
property, the increase of which since the year 1814 is said to 
have been 200 per cent. The population of this town is from 
4 to 5000. Good brick buildings are fast increasing. One of 
the hotels (Gwathway's) is said to be rented at 6000 dollars 
per annum : from 150 to 200 persons dine at this establish- 
ment daily. About every tenth house in the juain street is a 
doctor's : yet this place is said to be improving in health. 
The prevalent diseases are fever and ague ; besides which, the 
common disorders of this state are, consumption, pleurisy, 
typhus, remittent and intermittent fevers, rheumatism, and 
dysentery. 

Besides these towns, there are seven containing 400 inhabit- 
ants and upwards, viz. Beardstown, 821 ; Winchester, 538 ; 
Russelville, 532; Georgetown, 529; Versailles, 488; Dan- 
ville, 432 ; Newport, 413 : there are ten containing from 200 
to 400 ; and thirteen containing from 100 to 200. 

Trade mid Resources. — The trade of this state has become 
of some importance. In 1846, there were shipped 30,000 
hogsheads of tobacco, 80,000 barrels of flour, and above a 
million gallons of whiskey. The export of cordage, yarn, and 
bagging, lias materially decreased in consequence of European 
competition. There is a class of tradesmen who purchase 
agricultui'al produce, and then convey it to Orleans. 



UNITED STATES. 237 

The value of houses, lands, and slaves, in 1815, was esti- 
mated at 87,018,837 dollars, the land being valued at 4 dol- 
lars per acre. 

Education.— The legislature of Virginia made provision for 
a college in Kentucky, and endowed it with very considerable ■ 
landed property. The state of education is improving. The 
terms are various: the best is 45Z. per annum, including board. 
Schoolmasters of talent and respectability are in demand in 
Kentucky. Instances exist of their realising from 700 to 1400 
dollars per annum. 

Religion. — The baptists are the most numerous sect in this 
state. There are also several presbyterian congregations, and 
some few of other denominations. But rational religion is at a 
very \o\v ebb among the Kentuckians. 

Gover?i7nc)if. — This state is divided into 54 counties. The 
government consists of three parts ; legislative, executive, and 
judiciary. The legislature consists of a house of representa- 
tives, the members of which are chosen annually ; and a se- 
nate, of which the members are elected for four years, one 
fourth ])eiiig chosen every year. Every J'ree male above 21 
years of age has a vote for the representatives, and also for the 
governor, who is elected for four years, and is ineligible to filf 
that office for seven yt?ars thereafter. The judiciary is vested 
in a supreme court, and such inferior courts as may be ap- 
pointed by law, and the judges hold their offices during good 
behavioiu*. The constitution declares, among others, the fol- 
lowing fundamental principles: all power is inherent in the 
people ; all men have a right to worship God according to the 
dictates of their own consciences; all elections shall be free 
and equal ; trial by jury shall be held sacred ; printing presses 
shall be free. 

Histoi-ij. — The first white man we have certain accounts of, 
who discovered this province, was one James M'liride, who in 
company with some others, in the year 1754, passing down the 
Ohio in canoes, landed at the mouth of Kentucky river, and 
there marked a tree, with the first letters of his name, and the 
date, which remains to this day. These men reconnoitered 
the coyntry, and returned home with the pleasing news of their 



238 VIEW OF THE 

discovery of the best tract of land in North America, and pro- 
bably in the world. From this period it remained concealed 
till about tlie year 1767, when one John Finley and some 
others, trading with the Indians, travelled over the fertile re- 
gion now called Kentucky, then but known to the Indians by 
the name of the Dark and Bloody Grounds, and sometimes 
the Middle Ground. This country greatly engaged Mr. Fin- 
ley"'s attention. Some time after, disputes arising between the 
Indians and traders, he was obliged to decamp ; and returned 
to his place of residence in North Carolina, where he commu- 
nicated his discovery to colonel Daniel Boon and a few more, 
who conceiving it to be an interesting object, agreed in the 
year 17C9 to undertake to explore it. After a long fatiguing 
march, oAi^er a mountainous wilderness, in a westward direction, 
they at length arrived upon its borders ; and from the top of 
an eminence, with joy and wonder, descried the beautiful 
landscape of Kentucky. Here they encamped, and some went 
to hunt provisions, while colonel Boon and John Finley made 
a tour through the country, which they found far exceeding 
their expectations, and returning to camp, informed their co)n- 
panions of their discoveries. But in spite of this promising 
beginning, this compan}', meeting with nothing but hardships 
and adversity, grew exceedingly disheartened, and vvas plun- 
dered, dispersed, and killed by the Indians, except colonel 
Boon, who continued an inhabitant of the wilderness until the 
■year 1771, when he returned home. 

About this time, Kentucky had drawn the attention of se- 
veral gentlemen. Dr. Walker of Virginia, with a number 
more, made a tour westward for discoveries, endeavouring to 
find the Ohio river ; and afterwards he and general Lewis, at 
fort Stanwix, purchased from the Five Nations of Indians the 
lands lying on the north side of Kentucky. 

C(/lonel Henderson, of North Carolina, being informed of 
this country by colonel Boon, he and some other gentlemen 
held a treaty with the Cherokee Indians at Wataga, in March, 
1775, and then purchased from them the lands lying on the 
south side of Kentucky river, for goods, at valuable rates, to 
the amount of 6000/. specie. 



UNITED STATES. 239 

Soon after this purchase, the state of Virginia took the 
alarm, and disputed colonel Henderson's right of purchase, as 
a private gentleman of another state, in behalf of himself. 
However, for his eminent services to this country, and for 
having been instrumental in making so valuable an acquisition 
to Virginia, that state was pleased to reward him with a tract 
of land at the mouth of Green river, to the amount of 200,000 
acres ; and the state of North Carolina gave him the like 
quantity in Powefs valley. 

In 1790, Kentucky was, with consent of Virginia, formed 
into a separate state, and adopted a state constitution, which 
was revised and amended in 1799. The state was admitted 
into the union in 1792, and sends two senators and six repre- 
sentatives to congress : the latter are now to be nearly doubled, 
in consequence of the increase of population. 



NOKTH CAROLINA. 

Situation and Extent. ^ORTH CAROLINA is situated 

between north lat. 33 deg. 47 min. 
and 36 deg. 30 rain., and 1 deg. east and 6 deg. 45 min. west 
long. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 472, and its 
greatest breadth, from north to south, is 188 miles. It con- 
tains 49,000 square miles, 31,360,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — The face of the country is much di- 
versified. To the east and south-east, there is a sea coast of 
nearly 300 miles, indented with a great number of bays, the 
principal of which are Albemarle and Pamlicoe sounds, which 
receive the greater part of the rivers. On the outside of these 
sounds are some of the most remarkable capes in America, 
cape Hatteras, and cape Lookout, and to the southward is 
cape Fear. The whole country Selow the head of tide water, 



240 VIEW OF THE 

about 100 miles into the interior, is low and sandy, abounding 
in swamps, and presents an evident appearance of having been 
at qpe pei'iod overflowed by the sea. The country from the 
head of the tide waters, towards the mountains, is agreeably 
uneven, and much improved in value. Among the mountains 
it is exactly similar to the state of Virginia ; but being a few 
degrees to the south, the value of the country is improved, and 
the seasons in that district are delightful. 

The state is, upon the whole, we]l watered. The rivers fall 
into the Atlantic ocean, and have been all noticed. It is sup- 
posed that the state is well supplied with valuable minei'als, 
particularly in the mountainous district. Iron ore is very 
plentiful, and gold has been found in considerable quantities. 
There are various mineral springs. 

The soil of North Carolina is very similar to that ol Virgi- 
nia. The low part of the state, which is a considerable portion 
of it, is low, sandy, and barren, abounding in pine trees ; and 
the swamps, which are very large, produce cedars and bay 
trees. There are, in this district, good tracts of meadow land 
along the rivers, which are well cultivated, and produce abun- 
dantly. From the head of the tide waters to the mountains, 
the soil improves, and is very various. The mountainous dis- 
trict is very similar to that in Virginia. 

The climate in the low country is subject to great and sud- 
den changes, and is often unhealthy in the fall. Generally, 
the winters are mild, but very changeable. The spring is 
early, but subject to occasional frosts. The summers are hot 
and sultry, and the autumns are serene and beautiful ; but the 
exhalations from the decaying vegetable matter in the marshes 
and swamps are very injurious to health. In the upper coun- 
try, the weather is more settled, and, being free from swamps, 
is healthy. Among the mountains, the chmate is remarkably 
pleasant. 

The country is generally covered with herbage of various 
kinds, and a species of wild grass. It abounds with medicinal 
plants and roots. Among others are the ginseng, Virginia 
snake root, Seneca snake root, an herb of the emetic kind, like 
the ipecacuanha ; lion's heart, which is a sovereign remedy for 



UNITED STATES. 241 

the bite of a serpent. A species of the sensitive plant is also 
found here : it is a sort of brier, the stalk of which dies with 
the frost, but the root lives through the winter, and shoots 
again in the spring. The lightest touch of a leaf causes it to 
turn and cling close to the stalk. Although it so easily takes 
the alarm, and apparently shrinks from danger, in the space of 
two n)inutes after it is touched, it perfectly recovers its former 
situation. The mucipula veneris is also found here. The 
rich bottoms are overgrown with canes. Their leaves are 
green all the winter, and afford an excellent food for cattle. 
Thev are of a sweetish taste, like the stalks of green corn, 
which they in many respects resemble. 

Population. — The number of inhabitants in this state 
amounted in 1817 to 701,224, which is about 14^ persons to 
a square mile. 

Manners^ djc. — The state of society is somewhat similar to 
Virginia. The inhabitants are mostly farmers and planters, 
and their frankness and hospitality are mixed up w ith all the 
vices that distinguish slave masters. Temperance and indus- 
try are not to be reckoned among their virtues. Their time is 
usually consumed in drinking, idling, and gaming. Even the 
Sunday is devoted to the convivial visitings of the white inha- 
bitants, and the noisy diversions of the negroes. The women, 
except in some of the populous towns, have very little inter- 
course with each other, and are almost entirely destitute of the 
bloom and vivacity of the north. 

Time that is not employed in study or useful labour, in 
every country, is generally spent in hurtful or innocent exer- 
cises, according to the custom of the place, or the taste of the 
parties. The citizens of North Carolina, who are not better 
employed, spend their time in drinking, or gaming at cards or 
dice, in cock-lighting, or horse-racing. Many of the interludes 
are filled up with a boxing match ; and these matches fre- 
quently become memorable by feats oi gouging. 

The delicate and entertaining diz)ersion, with propriety 

called gouging', is thus performed. When two boxers are 

wearied with fighting and bruising each other, they come, as 

it is called, to close quarters, and each endeavours to twist his 

11 2 H 



242 VIEW OF THK 

fore-fiiiffers in the ear-locks of his antaMnist. When these 
are fast clenched, the thumbs are extended each way to the 
nose, and the eyes gently turned out of their sockets. The 
victor, for his expertness, receives shouts of applause from the 
spoi'tive throng ; while his poor eyeless antagonist is laughed 
at for his misfortune. 

' The general topics of conversation among the men,' says 
an American, ' when cards, the bottle, and occiu'rences of the 
day do not intervene, are negroes, the prices of indigo, rice, 
tobacco, &c. They appear to have as little taste for the sci- 
ences as for religion. Political enquiries, and philosophical 
disquisitions, are attended to but by a few men of genius and 
industry, and are too laborious for the indolent minds of the 
people at large. Less attention and respect are paid to the 
women here, than in those parts of the United States where 
the inhabitants have made greater progress in the arts of civi- 
lized life. Indeed, it is a truth, confirmed by observation, 
that in proportion to the advancement of civilization, in the 
same proportion will respect for the women be increased ; so 
that the progress of civilization in countries, in states, in towns, 
and in families, may be marked by the degree of attention 
which is paid by husbands to their wives, and by the young 
men to the young women.' 

Chief Towns. — Netobern is situated at the confluence of the 
Nuse and Trent rivers, on a level point of land, somewhat re- 
sembling Charleston, South Carolina; and it carries on a con- 
siderable trade with other places in the state, and the West 
Indies. The population is about 4000, of whom above one 
half are slaves. 

Wilmington is the most commercial town in the state. It is 
situated at the junction of the two branches of cape Fear river, 
35 miles from the sea ; and, being the place of depot for a 
large back country, it carries on a considerable trade, foreign 
and domestic. The town contains about 2000 inhabitants. 
The houses are mostly built of wood, and the town has suffer- 
ed severely from fire at various times. 

Edenton, on Albemarle sound, is one of the oldest towns in 
the state, and was formerly the seat of the royal governors.. 



UNITED STATES. 243 

It is favourably situated for trade, but is low and unhealthy. 
It contains about 750 inhabitants. 

The other towns of most note are, Washington^ Tai-ho- 
rough, and HiUahorongh, on the Tar river ; Halifax^ on the 
Roanoke ; Salem^ on the Yadkin ; Mo?'ganfown, on the Ca- 
tawba ; and Beaiiford, near cape Lookout. The population 
of tliese places is from about 300 to 700 ; and there are many 
villages containing from 100 to 300. 

The roads and bridges are yet in an imperfect state, and 
much remains to be done to make travelling comfortable. 

Trade and Resources. — The inhabitants produce on their 
farms every necessary of life. The principal commodities for 
sale are, tar, turpentine, pitch, rosin, timber, bees'" wax, corn, 
cotton, and tobacco. Almost every family in the country 
manufacture their own clothing, so that the British trade to 
this state is not great, nor important. The greater part of it 
is carried on through the medium of Charleston, or the north- 
ern states. 

The value of houses, lands, and slaves in this state, in 1815, 
amounted to 93,723,031 dollars, tiie land being estimated at 
two dollars and a half per acre. The duties on merchandise 
were 357,804 dollars. There were, at the same time, 25,826 
tons employed in foreign trade, and 3234 in the coasting trade. 

Education. — The North Carolinians are in general so much 
absorbed in dissipated pursuits, that the improvement of their 
minds is usually neglected. Considerable efforts have, how- 
ever, been made to place education on a respectable footing. A 
university has been founded, and endowed by the state ; and 
there are several respectable academies. But the most import- 
ant branch, that which has for its object the general diffusion of 
knowledge, has been neglected until of late. In 1808, how- 
ever, an act passed the legislature to establish common schools 
throughout the state, which, if followed up, will produce good 
effects. 

Religion. — Previous to the revolution, most of the inhabit- 
ants of this state professed themselves of the episcopal church ; 
bi!t when the clergy emigrated in consequence of their attach- 
ment to England, the people never thought it necessary to 



244 VIEW OF THE 

have their places filled up. There is now very little appear- 
ance of religion existing. The baptists and methodists have 
indeed sent a number of missionary preachers into various 
districts, and in some instances they have been tolerably suc- 
cessful. The Moravians have several flourishing settlements 
in this state, and a number of Irish presbytcrians have settled 
in the western parts. 

Government. — The legislative authority is vested in a senate 
and house of commons, together styled the General Assembly, 
and chosen annually. Senators must be possessed of 300 
acres of land ; representatives of 100. The electors of sena- 
tors must be possessed of 50 acres of land ; and of representa- 
tives a freehold in some town. The executive is vested in a 
governor, elected by the general assembly, and he is not eligi- 
ble to serve more than three years in six. He is assisted l>y a 
council of state, consisting of seven persons, elected by the as- 
sembly annually. The judiciary consists of a supreme court, 
a court of equity, and a court of admiralty. The judges are 
appointed by the assembly. This state is divided into eight 
districts and 60 counties. 

History. — The history of North Carolina is less known than 
that of any of the other states. The first permanent settle- 
ment was made about the year 1710, by a number of Palatines 
from Germany, who had been reduced to circumstances of 
great indigence by a calamitous war. The proprietors of Ca- 
rolina, knowing that the value of their lands depended on the 
strength of their settlements, determined to give every possible 
encouragement to such emigrants. Shij)s were accordingly 
pi'ovided for their transportation ; and instructions were given 
to governor Tynte to allow 100 acres of land for every n)an, 
woman, and child, free of quit-rents for the first ten years ; 
but at the expiration of that term, to pay one penny per acre, 
annual rent for ever, according to the usages and customs of 
the province. Upon their arrival, governor Tynte granted 
them a tract of land in North Carolina, since called Albemarle 
and Bath precincts, where they settled, and flattered themselves 
with having found, in the hideous wilderness, a happy retreat 
from the desolations of a war which then raged in Europe. 



UNITED STATES. S45 

In the year 171 2^ a dangerous conspiracy was formed by 
the Coree and Tuscorora tribes of Indians, to murder and 
expel this infant colony. They managed their conspiracy 
with great- cunning and profound secresy. They surrounded 
their principal town with a breast-work, to secure their fami- 
lies. Here the warriors convened to the number of 1200. 
From this place of rendezvous they sent out small parties, by 
different roads, who entered the settlement under the mask of 
friendship. At the change of the full moon, all of them had 
agreed to Ijegin their murderous o]ierations the same night. 
When the night came, they entered the houses of the planters, 
demanding provisions, and pretending to be offended, fell to 
murclering men, women, and children without mercy or dis- 
tinction. One hundred and thirty-seven settlers, among whom 
were a Swiss baron, and almost all the poor Palatines that had 
lately come into the country, were slaughtered the first night. 
Such was the secresy and dispatch of the Indians in this expe- 
dition, that none knew what had befallen his neighbour until 
the barbarians had reached hfs own door. Some few, how- 
ever, escaped, and gave the alarm. The militia assembled in 
arras, and kept watch da}' and night, until the news of the sad 
disaster reached the province of South Carolina. Governor 
Craven lost no time in sending a force to their relief. The 
assembly voted 4000/. for the service of the war. A body of 
600 militia, under the command of colonel Barnwell, and 866 
Indians of different tribes, with different commanders, march- 
ed with great expedition through a hideous wilderness to their 
assistance. In their first encounter with the Indians, they" 
killed 300, and took 100 prisoners. After this defeat, the 
Tuscororas retreated to their fortified town, which was shortly 
after surrendered to coltmel Barnwell. 

After this, the infant colony remained in peace, and conti- 
nued to flourish under the general government of South Caro- 
lina, till about the year 17!i9, when the proprietors vested 
their property and jurisdiction in the crown, and the colony 
was erected into a separate province, by the name of North 
Carolina, and its present limits established, by an order of 
George II. In 1785, the inhabitants of the counties of Sulli- 



246 VIEW OF THE 

van, Washington, and Greene, erected themselves into a new 
state, by the name of the New State of Franklin ; but, after 
many warm disputes, which lasted nearly three years, their 
pretensions to independence were relinquished. North Caro- 
hna was greatly distinguished for spirit, activity, and bravery, 
during the revolutionary war. 



SOUTH CAKOLINA. 



Situation and Extent. HP HIS state is situated between north 

lat. 32 deg. 6 min. and 35 deg., 
and west long. 1 deg. 30 min. and 6 deg. 25 min. Its extreme 
length from east to west is 236, and breadth from north to 
south 210 miles; and it is computed to contain an area of 
32,700 square miles, being 20,928,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — South Carolina has a sea coast on the 
Atlantic, extending nearly 200 miles, to which all its rivers 
flow. The angle of the coast is from north-east to south-west ; 
and nearly parallel with this, at about 120 miles from the 
coast, the first high land commences. The whole of the inter- 
mediate space is nearly a continued level, the angle of ascent 
being so trifling, that the rise at the extremity does not exceed 
15 or 20 feet. From the commencement </f the high lands the 
face of the country is variegated, and agreeably uneven, swell- 
ing sometimes into considerable hills ; and this continues to the 
north-west extremity of the state, where it is bounded by the 
mountains. 

The state is remarkably well watered. I'he Savannah river 
forms the boundary line between it and Georgia, through its 
whole course. This river has been noticed ; besides which 
there are — 



UNITED STATES. 247 

Santee, the largest river in South Carolina, is formed by 
two very large streams, the Congeree and Wateree, in the in- 
terior of the country. Thence running upwards of 100 miles, 
in an east-south-east direction, it divides, and falls into the 
Atlantic, ocean by two channels not far apart. The Wateree 
rises at the foot of the mountains in North Carolina, where it 
is denominated the Catawba, and, pursuing a south-east course, 
is joined by many tributary streams, and forms a junction 
with the Congeree, upwards of 200 miles from its source. 
The Congeree rises also in North Carolina, within a few miles 
of the Catawba, and pursues a south-east course about 70 
miles, when it crosses the state line, and runs due south about 
50 miles; it then runs south-east about 130 miles, and forms 
the junction aforesaid. In its passage through South Caroli- 
na, it receives a great many tributary streams, some of which 
are large rivers, particularly the Tyger, Ennei'ee, and Reedy 
rivers. 

The Great Pedee is a fine flowing river; next to the San- 
tee, the largest in South Carolina. It rises in North Carolina 
among the mountains, and has in that state the name of Yad- 
kin river. From thence it continues a south-east course, and 
after being joined by large tributary streams, particularly 
Little Pedee, Lynches creek, and Black river, it falls into the 
sea, 12 miles below Georgetown, Its whole length is upwards 
of 300 miles, and it waters an extensive tract of countrv. It 
is navigable for sea vessels to Georgetown, and for smaller 
vessels 100 miles higher up. It flows with a strong current. 
Its banks are said to be fertile ; but in the low country are 
very unhealthy. 

Cooper and Ashley river, which forma junction at Charles- 
ton. Cooper river rises about 50 miles north-north-west of 
Charleston, not far from the Santee river. It is a mile wide, 
nine miles above Charleston, and is navigable to its source, 
from whence there is a canal to the Santee. Ashley river rises 
to the north-west of Charleston, and derives its principal im- 
portance from the circumstance of its forming part of the har- 
bour of that city. 



248 VIEW OF THE 

Edisto river rises near tlie extremity of the low country, and 
runs a south-cast course, including its windings, of 150 miles, 
when it enters into the Atlantic, by two principal channels, 
called north and south Edisto. The space between them 
forms the Edisto island. 

Cambahee river rises near Edgefield court-house, and run- 
ning a south-east direction, upwards of 130 miles, falls into St. 
Helena sound. 

Coosaw river rises in Orangeburg district, and running a 
south-east course, through Black swamp, falls into Broad river, 
which last is an arm of the sea, in some places se'C'en or eight 
miles broad, and forms, at Beautbrt, one of the finest harbours 
in the United States. Beaufort and St. Helena islands are 
formed by the confluence of these rivers and inlets ; and there 
is a spacious entrance by Port Republican, formerly termed 
Port Iloyal. 

The whole of the low country presents an even regular soil, 
formed by a blackish sand, and pretty deep in those places 
where there are no stones. Seven tenths of it is covered with 
pines of one species, which, as the soil is drier and lighter, 
grow loftier and not so branchy. In some places they are in- 
terspersed with oaks. The pine barrens are crossed by little 
swamps, in the midst of which generally flows a rivulet ; and 
they have diflerent degrees of fertility, indicated by the trees 
that grow on them. In the upper country, the most fertile 
lands aressituated upon the borders of the rivers and creeks ; 
the lands that occupy the intermediate spaces are much less 
fertile. The latter are not much cultivated ; and those who 
occupy them are obliged to be perpetually clearing them to 
obtain more abundant harvests. Tlie forests are chiefly com- 
posed of oaks, hickory, maples, and poplars. Chesnut-trees do 
Y\' not begin to appear for 60 miles on this side of the mountains. 

Q / Michaux, who travelled through this country in 1803, says, 
j * CoFumBia is about 120 miles from Charleston. For the 
whole of this space, particularly from Orangeburg, composed 
of 20 houses, the road crosses an even country, sandy and dry 
during- the summer; whilst In the autumn and winter it is so 



UNITED STATES. 249 

covered with water in several places, for the space of eight or 
ten miles, that the horses are up to their middles. Every two 
or three miles we met with a miserable log-house upon the 
road, surrounded with Uttle fields of Indian corn, the slender 
stalks of which are very seldom more than five or six feet high, 
and which, from the second harvest, do not yield more than 
four or five bushels an acre. In the mean time, notwithstand- 
ing its sterility, this land, is sold at the rate of two dollars per 
acre."" 

The extensive and dreary forests c^^lled pine barrens, which 
abound in this state, are thus described by Mr. Lambert, an 
English traveller : ' On entering the road leading from 
Charleston to Savannah,' says he, ' I never felt myself more 
disposed for gloomy reflections. A habitation is seldom seen, 
except at intervals of 10 or 12 miles, or when you approach a 
savannah or swamp ; for the plantations are all settled a con- 
siderable distance from the road, and paths of communications 
are cut through the woods ; so that, in travelling through the 
southern states, you are enveloped in almost one continued 
forest. A contrary practice is adopted in the northern and 
middle states, where a succession of farms, meadows, gardens, 
and habitations, continually meet the eye of the traveller ; and 
if hedges were substituted for rail fences, those states would 
very much resemble some of the English counties. 

' The pine barrens are without any stones on their surface, 
for 80 miles or more from the sea. The land rises by an al- 
most imperceptible ascent to that distance, where the elevation 
is said to be near 200 feet above the level of the ocean, and 
forms the boundary between the middle and lower parts of the 
state. Through this tract of country the pine barrens have 
little or no underwood, some species of shrub oak excepted, 
the ground being generally covered with coarse wild grasses. 
This is probably not its natural appearance, but is caused by 
the custom of burning the dry grass in the spring, in order to 
hasten early pasturage, at the same time destroying the young 
shrubs, which would otherwise shoot up and form a thick un- 
derwood between tlie pines. From this practice, the forests 
frequently exhibit on each side the road a dismal ajjpearance, 

2 I 



250 VIEW OF THE 

from the great number of trees lialf burnt and scorched and 
blacked by the five ; others lying" on the ground, or ready to 
fall with the first high wind ; and in several places it is rather 
hazardous travelling in stormy weather. Almost every week 
the driver of the stage coach has to cut away large trunks or 
branches that have fallen across the road ; or, if there is an 
opening sufficiently wide among the trees, he chooses rather to 
go round than trouble himself to use his axe. 

' The pines are chiefly of the pitch and yellow species, and 
grow to the height of 100 feet and more, with a handsome 
straight stem, two-thirds of which, upwards, are free from 
branches.: They make excellent masts and timber for vessels, 
and yield abundance of pitch, tar, rosin, and turpentine. 
The stumps of several which have been cut down were covered 
with the resinous matter that had been extracted from the top 
by the heat of the sun. Where the soil improves, which is 
sometimes the case even in the midst of these barrens, the 
eye is relieved from the monotonous solemnity of the lofty 
pine, by a variety of other trees, consisting principally of live 
oak ; red, white, and chesnut oaks ; hickory, elm, beech, 
maple, &c. and numerous shrubs, plants, and flowers. In 
several places, natural hedges are formed of the shrubs and 
underwood that escape the ravages of fire ; these are intermin- 
gled with a variety of flowers, among which the honeysuckles, 
woodbines, and yellow jesseraines are most conspicuous. When 
I passed, they were in full blossom, and the flowers at once 
pleased the eye, and impregnated the air with their delightful 
odours. 

' As I proceeded on my journey, the pine trees, which have 
their branches towards their summits, formed a complete grove 
over my head, and almost excluded the sky from my view : 
in the morning this shady walk was extremely pleasant, but. as 
the day began to close I would willingly have preferred a less 
gloomy retreat. Every step I took was still the same, and 
nothing disturbed the solemn silence of the forest, save the 
whistling mui-murs of the wind, the skipping of a few deer 
across the road, and the rustling of the black snakes amid tlie 
grass and fallen branches of the trees. Now and then, indeed, 



UNITED STATES. 2oi 

the crash of an enormous pine tree tumbling to the earth would 
■ ruffle the stillness which prevailed, and arouse me from a reve- 
rie of thought into which I had fallen, as I pensively measured 
my steps through the gloomy wilderness; but the sound, after 
reverberating for a few seconds, died away in distant nuu-nuu-s 
through the woods, and. all was again silent.'' 

The climate in the low country is materially different from 
that in the upper country, the former being much less conge- 
nial to health than the latter. The summers are exceedingly 
hot and sultry, and the heat abates but little, except in the 
evenings and mornings, till past the middle of October. From 
tlie first of July to that period, the country is in many places 
subject to much sickness, particularly bilious fevers, agues, &c. 
The fall weather is generally beautiful, and contiinit'S till past 
Chii&tmas ; the average temperature is greater than an Eng- 
lish simimer. The winters are generally mild, and there is 
very little frost, but the weather is sometimes subject to great 
and sudden changes. The spring commences about the mid- 
dle of February, and they have often green peas in the market 
by the middle of March ; but the weather intermits very mvich 
till about the first of May, when it gets steadily warm^ and 
continues increasing with the season till September, when it 
begins to abate. Almost every person who can afford it, re- 
moves to a more healthy situation during this pei'iod, and a 
vast number go to the northern states in summer, and return 
in the fall. The period of going north is mostly from the 
middle of May till the middle of July, and of returning, from 
the middle of October till the middle of November. The 
anxiety that prevails during that period is exti*eme ; and when 
it is over, the inhabitants congratulate one another with the 
full prospect of 10 or 11 months being added to their exist- 
ence. In the upper country, the summers are much more 
temperate, and being removed from the swamps, there is no 
sickness. Towards the mountains, the climate is delightful. 

The principal mineral is iron, which, indeed, is found in 
great plenty in all the states ; and gold, silver, and copper ores 
have been found here. Marble has been found in some few 



252 VIEW OF THE 

places, and also black lead. There are several valuable mine- 
ral springs in the state. 

Popiolation. — The population of this state in 1817 amounted 
to 564,785, which is upwards of 17 persons to a square mile. 

Manners, ^c. — The character of the Carolinians has been 
well described by a late traveller. He acknowledges that the 
planters are hospitable, but always in want of money. ' When 
they receive cash in advance,' says he, ' for their crops of cot- 
ton or rice, it is immediately squandered away in the luxuries 
of fashion, good eating or drinking, or an excursion into the 
northern states ; where, after dashing about for a month or 
two, with tandems, curricles, livery servants, and outriders, 
they frequently return home in the stage coach, with scarcely 
dollars enough in their pocket to pay their expences on the 
road. If their creditors of ten or a dozen years standing be- 
come clamorous, a small sum is perhaps paid them in part, 
unless the law interferes, and compels them to pay the whole 
debt and as much for costs. Thus the planter proceeds in his 
career of extravagance, which in the midst of his riches ren- 
ders him continually poor. With an estate worth 200,000 
dollars, he has seldom a dollar in his pocket but what is bor- 
rowed upon an anticipated crop : hence it may be truly said, 
that he lives only from hand to mouth. 

* Unlike the farmer and merchant of the northern states, 
who are themselves indefatigably employed from morning to 
night, the Carolinian lolls at his ease under the shady piazza 
before his house, smohing segars and drinking sangoree ; 
while his numerous slaves and overseers are cultivating a rice 
swamp or cotton field with the sweat of their brow, the pro- 
duce of which is to furnish their luxurious master with the 
means of figuring away for a few months in the city, or an ex- 
cursion to the northward. Property thus easily acquired is as 
readily squandered away ; and the Carolinian, regarding only 
the present moment for the enjoyment of his pleasures, runs 
into extravagance and debt. 

' The merchants, traders, and shopkeepers of Charleston 
are obliged to lay a profit, frequently of 150 to 200 per cent. 



UNITED STATES. 253 

and more, upon their goods, for the long credit which the gen- 
try are accustomed to take. Where they meet with good pay- 
ments, they seldom fail to realize an independent fortune, for 
they sell nothing under 50 per cent., even for ready money : 
but it often happens that, after they retire from business, they 
have a number of debts to collect in.' 

*The Carolinians,' observes our author, 'are particularly 
expert at rifle-shooting ; and articles, instead of being put up 
at vendue, are often shot for, with rifles, at a small price each 
shot, which is a more useful and honourable mode than the 
practice of raffling adopted in the lower country. This me- 
thod of disposing of goods is worthy of imitation in England, 
and would soon render the people excellent marksmen. 

' In the southern states, the incomes of the planters and 
farmers are various, ranging from 80,000 to 40 dollars. Very 
few, however, receive incomes of the magnitude of the former 
sum. Many receive from 12,000 to 20,000 dollars per an- 
num ; but the majority of the planters are only in the annual 
receipt of from 3000 to 6000 dollars.' 

Like all other inhabitants of a warm climate, the Carolinians 
arrive sooner at maturity than the natives of colder regions. 
They possess great quickness and vivacity of genius ; but the 
ladies are pale and languid, though the softness and delicacy 
of their appearance and manners render them very engaging. 

' There is perhaps no instance,' says Mr. Morse, ' in which 
the richer class of people trespass more on propriety than in 
the mode of conducting their funerals. That a decent respect 
be paid to the dead, is the natural dictate of refined humanity ; 
but this is not done by sumptuous and expensive entertain- 
ments, splendid decorations, and pompous ceremonies, which 
a misguided fashion has here introduced and rendered neces- 
sary. In Charleston and other parts of the state, no persons 
attend a funeral any more than a wedding, unless they ai'e 
particularly invited. Wine, punch and all kinds of liquors, 
tea, coffee, cake, &c. in profusion, are handed round on these 
solemn occasions. In short, one would suppose that the reli- 
gious proverb of the wise man, " It is better to go to the house 
of mourning than to the house of feasting," would be unintel- 



254- VIEW OF THE 

ligible and wholly inapplicable here, as it would be difficult to 
distinguish the house of mourning from the house of feasting. 

* The Jews in Charleston, among other peculiarities in bu- 
rying their dead, have this : After the funeral dirge is sung, 
and just before the corpse is deposited in the grave, the coffin 
is opened, and a small bag of earth, taken from the grave, is 
carefully put under the head of the deceased ; then some pow- 
der, said to be earth brought from Jerusalem, and carefully 
kept for this purpose, is taken and put upon the eyes of the 
corpse, in token of their remembrance of the holy land, and of 
their expectations of returning thither in God's appointed 
time.' 

Chief Towns. — Charleston is built upon a» level sandy soil, 
and is elevated but a few feet above the height of spring tides. 
Tile streets extend east and west between the Ashley and 
Cooper rivers ; and others intersect at right angles from north 
to south. From its open exposure to the ocean, it is subject 
to storms and inundations, which affect the security of its har- 
bour. The city has also suffered much by fires : the last, in 
1T96, destrov|#^ u pwards of 500 houses, and occasioned 
300,000/. sterling damage. 

The number of dwelling-houses, public buildings, and ware- 
houses, &c. at present in Charleston, is estimated at 5000. 
With the exception of Meeting street. Broad street, and the 
Bay, the streets are in general narrow and confined. They 
are all unpaved ; and in blowing weather whirlwinds of dust 
and sand fill the houses, and blind the eyes of the people. 
The foot paths are all constructed of bricks ; but a few years 
ago not even this convenience existed. 

Tlie houses in the streets near the water side, including that 
part of the town between Meeting street and the street called 
East Bay, are lofty and closely built. The bricks are of a 
peculiar nature, being of a porous texture, and capable of re- 
sisting the weather better than the firm, close, red brick of the 
northern states. They are made in Carolina, and are of a dark 
brown colour, which gives the buildings a gloomy appearance. 
The roofs are tiled or slated. In this part of the town^the 
principal shopkeepers and merchants have their stores, wai'^ 



UNITED STATES. 255 

houses, and counting-houses. Houses here bear a very high 
rent : those in Broad and Church streets for shops, let for up. 
wards of 300/. per annum; those along the Bay with ware- 
houses let for 700/. and more, according to the size and situa- 
tion of the buildings. The shipping, as at New York, lie 
along the wharfs, or small docks and slips along the town. 

The houses in Meeting street and the back parts of the town 
are many of them handsomely built ; some of brick, others of 
wood. They are in general lofty and extensive, and are sepa- 
rated from each other by small houses or yards, in which the 
kitchens and out-offices are built. Almost every house is fur- 
nished with balconies and verandas, some of which occupy the 
whole side of the building from top to bottom, having a gal- 
lery from each floor. They are sometimes shaded with Vene- 
tian blinds, and afford the inhabitants a pleasant cool retreat 
from the scorching beams of the sun. Most of the modern 
houses are built with much taste and elegance ; but the chief 
aim seems to be, to make them as cool as possible. The town 
is also crowded with wooden buildings of a very inferior de- 
scription. ' 5^ 
' Three of the public buildings, and the episcopal church of 
St. Michael, are situated at the four corners formed by the 
intersection of Broad and Meeting streets, the two principal 
avenues in Charleston. 

The principal public buildings, besides those which have 
been already enumerated, are, the exchange, a large respecta- 
ble building situated in the East Bay, opposite Broad street ; 
a poor-house ; a college, or rather grammar-school ; a theatre ; 
and an orphan-house. This latter building is worthy of the 
city of Charleston. It contains about 150 children of both 
sexes, and the annual expence for provision, clothing, firewood, 
&c. is 14,000 dollars, which is defrayed by the legislature of 
the state of South Carolina. 

The market ol' Charleston is well supplied, and the expence 
of living nearly the same as at New York. The population 
is reckoned about S8.000, of whom 20,000 are negroes and 
people of colour. 



256 VIEW OF THE 

There are a great number of Jews settled in Charleston; 
and they live principally in King street, where their shops are 
crowded together, and exhibit as motley a collection of clothing 
and wearing apparel as can be found in Houndsditch or Rag- 
fair. Tliey are sufficiently numerous to have a synagogue : 
and one company of the volunteer militia is formed entirely of 
Jews. They are, as is the case in most countries, monied 
people: and on their sabbaths the young Jewesses walk out 
in fine flowing dresses, that would better suit the stage or 
ball-room than the street. 

Of the traders and shopkeepers settled in Charleston, a great 
number are Scotch, who generally acquire considerable pro- 
perty, by close and persevering habits of industry ; after which, 
they most commonly return to their native country. There 
are also several Irish traders, but their number is far inferior 
to the Scotch. There are no white servants in Charleston. 
Every kind of work is performed by negroes and people of co- 
lour. The importations of Africans into the States ceased by 
law on the 1st of January, 1808. This caused, about the 
time of the prohibition, a rise in the price of slaves, who are 
usually disposed of by auction. 

During the wars of the French revolution, Charleston was the 
medium of the greatest part of that trade which has been carried 
on between the French West India islands and the mother 
country, under the neutral flag of the United States, The 
number of vessels that entered the port of Charleston in 1801 
amounted to 1274, of which 875 belonged to that port ; the 
rest were chiefly British vessels. At the time the embargo 
reached Charleston, the number of vessels in port were, ships 
78, brigs 42, schooners and sloops 85 ; total 205. 

Columbia, on the Congeree river, 120 miles from Charles- 
ton, is the seat of government, and is a place of considerable 
trade. The number of its houses does not exceed 200 , they 
are almost all built of wood, and painted grey and yellow ; 
and, although there are very few of them more than two sto- 
ries high, they have a very respectable appearance. The in- 
habitants of the upper country, who do not approve of sending 



UNITED STATES. 257 

their provisions to Charleston, stop at Cokimbia, where they 
dispose of them at several respectable shops established in the 
town. 

Georgetown is situated at the confluence of Podee and Black 
rivers 12 miles from the sea, and contains about 2000 inhabit- 
ants. It is the only sea port in South Carolina, except 
Charleston, and has a considerable trade, particularly in rice, 
of which it is said that the lands in its neighbourhood produce 
30,000 tierces annually. The houses are mostly built of wood, 
and are but indifferent. The principal public buildings are, 
a court-house, jail, an episcopal church, a presbyterian church, 
one for baptists, one for methodists, and a flourishing academy. 

Trade and Resources. — While agriculture is so much at- 
tended to, and the means of engaging in it so easy, it is not 
surprising that ^ew direct their attention to manufactures. 
Some years ago a cotton manufactory was established near 
Statesborough, which bid fair to rise into consideration. It 
was, however, soon perceived that the price of labour was too 
great to permit its goods to stand any competition with those 
of similar qualities imported from Great Britain : consequently 
the proprietors were obliged to discontinue their operations. 
A numerous population and scarcity of lands must first be ex- 
perienced in a country before its inhabitants will resort to ma- 
nufactures, while a more eligible mode of subsistence exists. 
In the upper country, however, necessity has obliged the in- 
habitants to provide for their respective wants from their own 
resources, in consequence of the difficulty and expence of con- 
veying bulky articles from the sea coast into the interior. The 
traveller there socm becomes accustomed to the humming mu- 
sic of the spinning-wheel and the loom. Cottons and woollens 
of various descriptions are made in sufficient quantities for 
domestic use ; and if we except the articles of salt and sugar, 
the people in the upper parts of tlie state may be considered 
independent of foreign support; for carpenters, smiths, ma- 
sons, tanners, shoemakers, sadlers, hatters, millwrights, and 
other tradesmen, are conveniently situated throughout the 
country ; and the materials necessary for their respective pro- 
fessions are met with in abundance. 

2 K 



258 . VIEW OF THE 

In every part of this state cotton is produced. Rice and 
Indian corn also grows in abundance in the low swampy dis- 
tricts, and quantities of tobacco are annually exported from 
Charleston. 

The total value of lands, houses, and slaves, in 1815, was 
estimated at 123,416,512 dollars, the average value of land 
being stated at 8 dollars per acre. The gross duties of mer- 
chandise were 1,406,907 dollars. The shipping employed in 
foreign trade amounted to 12,S80 tons, and in the coasting, 
trade to 287 tons. 

Education. — The operation of slavery to so great an extent 
produces, of course, the same effects here as in other places; 
but the people have considerably improved in education and 
morals since the revolution. It was customary, for a long pe- 
riod, for the more wealthy planters to send their sons to Eu- 
rope for education ; and even now they frequently send them 
to the northern states ; but the practice is gradually declining, 
and the desire has become general to have respectable semina- 
ries in the state. A college has been founded, and very re~ 
sjiectably endowed, at Columbia; and there are several other 
colleges and academies throughout the state. The towns are 
pretty well supplied with common schools ; but they are de- 
fective in the country ; and this branch of education, being the 
basis of the morality of tlic s^ate, deserves the early attention 
of the legislatin-e. 

Religion. — The state of religion is nearly the same as in 
North Carolina. The high country is mostly settled by pres- 
byterians, baptists, and methodists; but upon the sea coast, 
the inhabitants generally profess to be episcopalians. 

GoveriirneiH. — South Carolina is divided into 26 judiciary 
districts, and some of these are subdivided into parishes. The 
civil government is, like that of the other states, legislative, ex- 
ecutive, and judiciary. The legislative power is vested in a 
general assembly, consisting of a senate and house of repre- 
sentatives. The senators are chosen for four vears, and one 
half vacate their seats every two years : they must be 85 years 
of age, and possessed of a freehold estate of the value of 300/. 
sterling, clear of debt ; and the electors must be poseessed of 



UNITED STATES. 259 

50 acres of land, or a town lot, or have paid a tax of three 
shillings sterrn)g. The representatives must be 21 years of 
5ge, and be possessed of a freehold estate of 1501. clear of 
debt ; and the electors must have tlie same qualifications as 
for senators. The executive government is vested in a go- 
vernor, chosen for two years, by the legislature ; and the qua- 
lifications to fill that office are, that he be fiO years of age, and 
be possessed of loOOi sterling. The judges of the superior 
courts, coniniissioners of the treasury, secretary of state, and 
surveyor-general, are all elected by the legislature. 

History. — In 1662, Charles II. granted to lord Clarendon, 
and others, a ti*act of land extending from north lat. 29 deg. 
to 36 deg. 31 min., and from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, 
which they called Carolina. The first permanent settlement 
was made at Charleston, under their direction, in 1G69, for 
the government of which the famous Mr. Locke drew up a 
constitution. It was aristocratical and impracticable, though 
^-ery ingenious in theory. Three classes of nobility were to 
be establislied, viz. barons, cassiques, and landgraves. The 
first to possess twelve, the second twenty-four, and the third 
forty-eight thousand acres of land, Avhich was to be unalienable. 

During the continuance of the proprietary government, a 
period of 50 years (reckoning from 16()9 to 1719), the colony 
was involved in perpetual quarrels. Oftentimes tliey were 
harassed by the Indians, sometimes- infested with pirates, fre- 
quently invaded by the French and Spanish fleets, constantly 
uneasy under their injudicious government, and quarrelling 
with their governors. But their most bitter dissensions were 
resjjeeting religio)i. The episcopalians, being more numerous 
than the dissenters, atteiyripted to exclude the latter from a seat 
in the legislature. The.se attempts so far succeeded, that the 
church of England, by a majority of votes, was established by 
lav.-. This illiberal act threw the colony into the utmost con- 
fusion, and was followed by a train of evil consecjuences, whicli 
proved to be the principal cause of the revolution. Notwith- 
standing the act estabhshino; the church of Enii'land was re- 
pealed, tranquillity was not restored to the colony. A diange 
of governuient was generally desired by the colonists. They 



860 VIEW OF THE 

found that they were not sufficiently protected by their pro- 
prietary constitution, and effected a revolution about the year 
1719j and the government became regal. 

In 1728, the proprietors accepted 22,500/. sterling from the 
crown, for the property and jurisdiction, except lord Gran- 
ville, who reserved his eighth of the property, which has never 
yet been formally given up. At this time the constitution was 
new modelled, and the territory, limited by the original char- 
ter, was divided into North and South Carolinas. From this 
period the colony began to flourish. It was protected bv a 
government, formed on the plan of the English constitution; 
and between the years 1763 and 1775, the number of inhabit- 
ants was more than doubled. 

South Carolina took an early and decided part in the strug- 
gle for independence, and sent delegates to the first congress. 
In 1790, she adopted the present state constitution; and now 
sends two senators and eight representatives to congress. 



GEORGIA. 

Situation and Extent. Q-EORGIA is situated between north 

lat. 30 deg. 30 min. and 35 deg., 
and west long. 3 deg. 50 min. and 9 deg. 5 min. Its extreme 
length from north to south is 305 miles, and its extreme 
breadth 259- Its area is about 64,000 square miles, or 
40,960,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — This state, like the Carolinas, is na- 
turally divided into two districts, the upper and the lower ; of 
which the boundary is remarkably well defined. Augusta is 
on this line, on the Savannah river, from whence it passes to 
the westward by Louisville, and, at the extremity of the state, 
passes the Flint river, about the latitude of 32 deg. The re- 



UNITED STATES. 261 

spectlve portions are so much assimilated to South Carolina, 
that it is unnecessary to describe them here. The state has a 
sea coast of 100 miles, which is indented with bays and inlets, 
and studded with islands, well known by the name of Sea 
islands. In the southern part there is a portion of Eokefa- 
noke swamp, one of the most remarkable in the world. To 
the north-west are the Alleghany mountains, which terminate 
in this state. 

The state is remarkably well supplied with rivers and small 
streams. Savannali river is one of the most important in 
America. Its head waters consist of two small rivers which 
rise near the mountains, and form a junction about 220 miles 
from the sea; from thence it runs a south-east course, and 
falls into the ocean 17 miles below Savannah. It receives se- 
veral small streams in its progress, and is the boundary line 
between Georgia and South Carolina, during its whole course. 
It is navigable for ships of any burthen to within three miles 
of Savannah ; for ships of 250 tons to Savannah ; and for boats 
of 100 feet keel to Augusta. Above Augusta are the rapids, 
and, after passing them, the river can be navigated 80 miles 
higher, in small boats, to the junction of the head waters. It 
may be remarked that through the medium of this river a con- 
siderable part of the produce of South Carolina is carried to 
the Savannah market. It abounds with fish, and the water is 
soft and good ; but the country on its banks is by no means 
healthy, especially in the lower part of the state. 

The Ogeeche river rises a little above Greensburgh, 200 
miles from Savannah, and pursuing a south-east course, falls 
into the Atlantic, 25 miles south of Savannah. 

The Altahama is composed of a number of branches, of 
which the largest is the Oconee. It rises near the mountains, 
about 300 miles from Savannah, and running a south-cast 
course, is joined by the Appalachy, and thence continues its 
course, augmented by a great number of tributary streams, till 
it forms a junction with the Oakniulgee, 100 miles from the 
ocean : from thence it runs an east-sou tii -east course, and falls 
into the Atlantic below Darien, to which it is navigable for 
large vessels. 



26f2 MEW OF THE 

The 0;il<rnuigee is a large river rising near tb.e Ap})alacliv, 
from whence, to its confluence with the Oconee, it runs up- 
wards of ^100 miles. The Little Ogeeche is a considerable 
river, and falls into llie Altamaha, from the northward, after 
this junction. 

The Chatahouchy is a very large river, and forms the west- 
ei'n boundary of Georgia from the Florida line, 1S5 miles up 
the country. It rises at the foot of the mountains, near the 
head of Savannah river, and runs south-wcstwardly, above 200 
miles, to where it forms the state line. From tlience it pur- 
sues a course a little east of south, to Florida, where it forms 
a ji^nction with Flint river, and assumes the name of Apala- 
chicola. From thence it runs a south by east course, 80 miles, 
to the gulf of Mexico, which it enters by several mouths. 

Flint river is about '300 yards broad, and 12 or 15 feet 
deep. It rises near the Oakmulgee river, and runs, with a 
clear gentle current, a course to the west of south, upwards of 
200 miles. 

St. Marv^s river rises in Iv)kcfanoke swamp,' and rLuming 
about 100 miles by a verv crooked course, but east upon the 
whole, forms the boundary between the United States and 
East Florida, during its Avhole passage, and falls into the sea 
at St. Mary'^s, where it forms a good harbour. 

The soil and climate are both assimilated to South Carolina. 
There is a great proportion of good land in upper Georgia, 
and the sea islands are ninnerous and rich. Lower Georgia, 
being farther to the south, is a little warmer than South Ca- 
rolina. 

Population. — The number of inhabitants in Geoi'gia in 1817 
amoimted to 408,507, -which is nearly 6^ persons to a square 
mile. In 1790, the population did not exceed 64,000 persons. 

Maniwrs, cfc. — No general character will apply to the inha- 
bitants at large. Collected from different parts of the world, 
as interest, iiecessity, or inclination led them, their character 
and manners must of course partake of all the varieties which 
distinguish the several states and kingdoms from whence they 
came. There is so little uniformity, that it is difficult to trace 
!iny governing principles among them. An aversion to labom* 



UNITED STATES. 263 

is too predominant, owing in part to the relaxing heat of the 
climate, and partly to the want of necessity to excite industry. 
An open and friendly hospitality, particularly to strangers, is 
an ornamental characteristic of a great pai't of this people. 

Their diversions are various. With some, dancing is a fa- 
vourite amusement. Othws take a iancied pleasure at the 
gaining table, which, however, frequently terminates in the 
ruin of their happiness, fortunes, and constitutions. In the 
upper counties, horse-racing arid cock-fighlitig prevail, two 
cruel diversions imported from Virginia and the Carolinas, 
from whence those who practise them principally emigrated. 
But the most rational and universal amusement is hunting ; 
and for this Georgia is particularly well calculated, as the 
woods abound with- plenty of deer, racoons, rabbits, wild tur- 
kies, and other game ; at the samt; time, the woods are so thiu 
and free from obstructions, that you mav generally ride half 
speed in the chace, without danger. In this amusement plea- 
sure and profit are blended. The exercise, more thati any 
other, contributes to health, and fits for activity in business 
and expertness in war ; the game also affords tliem a palatable 
food, and the skins a profitable article of commerce. 

Chief Toxon.'i. — Savannali is situated in {32 deg. 3 min. north 
latitude, on a high sandy bank, or bluif, on the south side of 
the Savannah river, 17 nfiles from the sea. The city is laid 
out on an elegant plan, and is about a mile in length from east 
to west, and about a cpiarter of a mile in breadth. It consists 
of 30 streets, 16 squares, and 6 lanes, containing about 1000 
houses, and .5500 inhabitants ; of whom about 2500 are slaves. 
The public buildings are, a court-house, jail, academy, bank- 
office, and five places for public worship. There has lately 
been built a very handsome exchange, with a sjiire and obser- 
vatory, from whence vessels may be seen out at sea 10 or 12 
miles. The situation of Savannah is favourable both fijr health 
and connncrce. The bluff on which it is built is from 50 to 70 
feet high, so tliat there is a fine descent to the river. This 
bluff is a bed of verv fine sand; and by diy-jiing; wells a})out 
60 or 70 feet deep, a supply of excellent water is procured, 
probably a filtration from the river. The streets are broad 



264. VIEW OF THE 

and airy, and the city, being only 17 miles from the sea, fre- 
quently enjoys a sea breeze, which is cool and refreshing in 
the summer season. 

The houses are mostly built of wood, and stand separate 
from each other, divided by court yards, except in two or 
three streets, where they are close built, many of them with 
brick, and contain several shops and stores. One large range 
of brick buildings stands near the market-place, and at a dis- 
tance has the appearance of an hospital. The principal street 
is that called the Bay, where there are several very good 
houses of brick and wood. Some contain booksellers', grocers', 
and drapers' stores ; others are private dwellings. This range 
of buildings extends nearly three quarters of a mile along the 
town ; and opposite to it is a beautiful walk or mall, planted 
with a double row of trees, the same as those at Charleston. 
This agreeable promenade is situated near the margin of the 
height or bluff upon which the town stands ; and the mer- 
chants' stores, warehouses, and wharfs, for landing, housing, 
and shipping of goods, are built immediately below, along the 
shore, forming in some degree a sort of lower town. From 
the height there is a fine commanding view of the Savannah 
river as far as the sea, and for several miles above the town. 
About the centre of the walk, and just on the verge of the cliff, 
stands the exchange, a large brick building, which contains 
some public offices ; and an assembly room, where a concert 
and ball are held once a fortnioht during the winter. 

Augusta is situated on a handsome plain, on the south side 
of Savannah river, 127 miles from Savannah, and contains 
about 2400 inhabitants, of whom above one half are slaves. 
The public buildings are, two churches, an academy, a court- 
house, jail, a market-house, and several public warehouses. 
The town is at the head of large boat navigation, and carries 
on a very extensive and profitable trade, both with Savannah 
and the back country. Many of tlie merchants are wealthy, 
and import their goods ; and the greater part of the others 
purchase in New York. The town was originally settled by 
emigrants from Scotland : but the society is now very mixed, 
and probably those of Irish extraction are the most numerous. 



UNITED STATES. 265 

The inhabitants are in general well-informed, and have a con- 
siderable taste for literature. They are affable in their de- 
portment, and polite and hospitable to strangers. 

The country round Augusta is agreeably diversified, and 
well cultivated. The whole plain on which Augusta stands is 
remarkably fertile ; and towards the south-west, the country 
rises into considerable hills, interspersed with fertile plains, re- 
markably favourable for the culture of cotton ; and the cotton 
plantations are in a very thriving state. This is reckoned the 
boundary between the high and low country. The falls in 
the river are three miles above Augusta, and immediately on 
leaving the town for the westward, the great contrast between 
this and the low country is seen : in place of swamps, marshes, 
and sandy deserts, the senses are gratified by high rising- 
grounds, rich verdure isi the woods, and clear streams of water. 
The river is here 500 yards broad, and very deep. 

Besides Savannah and Augusta, there is, on the Savannah 
river, a little town called Petersburg ; and in the interior, be- 
tween the Savannah and Ogeechc, is Washington. Both these 
are thriving places. On the great Ogeeche, there arc, besides 
Louisville, Sparta and Grccnshurg. On the Altahama and its 
waters, Darien, a new seaport, Milledgeville, the new seat 
of government, and Athens, the seat of a college. On St*. 
Mary''s river is the town of St. Mary's, at the southern extre- 
mity of the state. 

Trade and Resources. — The valuation of the property of 
the state of Georgia, subject to the direct tax, amounts to 
57,746,771 dollars, 16 cents, of which considerably more thaw 
one half is raised on the valuation of slaves. 

The exports in 1810, were 2,424,631. The chief articles 
of export are live stock, maize, rice, tobacco, indigo, flour, 
sago, tar, naval stores, canes, leather, deer skins, snake root, 
myrtle, and bees wax. 

The imports consist of foreign merchandise, brought directly 
from France and England ; and also from New York and 
Philadelphia. The New England states furni.sh butter, cheese, 
fish, potatoes, onions, apples, cyder, slices, and New England 
rum. Between St. Mary''s and the neighlwnn-ing island of 
V.l 2 E 



me VIEW OF THE 

Amelia, an active smuggling trade was carried on during the 
late war. English merchandise was landed there, and after- 
wards sold as Spanish to the Americans. 

Education. — A great degree of attention has been paid in 
Georgia to education ; and very considerable funds have been 
appropriated to the support of it. The college at Athens is 
amply endowed, and provision is made for establishing and 
keeping up an academy in every covmty in the state. In the 
towns, there are very good common schools; but the state is 
yet defective as to the establishment of these most useful se- 
minaries throughout the country. It should be mentioned, 
however, that in this, and all the southern st»ates, the popula- 
tion is too thin to admit of the establishment of schools upon 
the plan of the townships of the northern states. By looking 
at the census, it will be seen, that in this state, for exaniple, a 
township of six miles square, or 36 square miles, only contains 
about 112 persons ; from which if we deduct the proportion of 
black people, it leaves only 75 ; and this number would not 
be sufficient to support a school. On the other hand, there is 
much waste land, and those districts that are settled up, often 
contain much more than this proportion ; sometimes, indeed, 
a sufficient number for the purpose mentioned. 

The constitution declares, that ' arts and sciences shall be 
promoted, in one or more seminaries of learning ; and the le- 
gislature shall give such further donations and privileges to 
those already established, as may be necessary to secure ihe 
objects of their institution.' 

Religion. — On the subject of religion, it is declared, that 
*no person within the state shall, upon any pretence, be de- 
prived of the inestimable privilege of worshipping God in a 
manner agreeable to liis own conscience, nor be. compelled to 
attend any plac« of worship, contrary to his own faith and 
judgment ; nor shall he ever be obliged to pay tythes, taxes, 
or any other rates, for the building or repairing any place of 
worship, or for the maintenance of any minister or ministry, 
contrary to what he believes to be right, or hath engaged to 
do. No religious society shall ever be established in this state 
m preference to any other : nor shall any person be denied the 



UNITED STATES. 2(>: 

enjoyment of any civil right, merely on account of religious 
principles.'' 

Government. — The state is divided into 24 counties, and 
these compose two judiciary districts. The civil government 
is vested in an assembly, consisting of a senate and house of 
representatives, a governor, and a judiciary. The assembly 
are elected annually, and all free white persons, who are of 
age, and who have paid taxes, have a vote. The governor is 
appointed for two years by the legislature. The judges are 
elected by the legislature for three years. 

History. — The settlement of a colony between the rivers 
Savannah and Altahama, was meditated in England in 1.732, 
for the accommodation of poor people in Great Britain and 
Ireland, and for the further security of Carolina. Private 
compassion and public spirit conspired to promote the benevo- 
lent design.- Humane and opulent men suggested a plan of 
transporting a number of indigent families to this part of 
America, free of expence. For this purpose they applied to 
the king, George II. and obtained from him letters patent, 
bearing date June 9th, 1732, for legally carrying into execu- 
tion what they had generously projected. They called the 
new province Georgia, in honour of the king, who encouraged 
the plan. A corporation, consisting of 21 persons, was con- 
stituted by the name of the trustees, for settling and establish- 
ing the colony of Georgia, which was separated from Carolina 
by the river Savannah. — The trustees having first set an ex- 
ample themselves, by largely contributing to the scheme, un- 
dertook also to solicit benefactions from others, and to apply 
the money towards clothing, arming, purchasing utensils for 
cultivation, and transporting such poor people as should con- 
sent to go over and begin a settlement. They did not confine 
their charitable views to the subjects of Britain alone^ but 
wisely opened a door for the indigent and oppressed protestants 
of other nations. To prevent a misapplication of the money, 
it was deposited in the bank of England. 

The trustees for Georgia granted land as a military fief, 
and established such regulations as proved most pernicious to 
the growth and prosperity of the colony. Besides the lai-ge 



268 VIEW OF THE 

sums expended for its settlement by these gentlemen, 36,000/ 
was granted by parliament for the same purpose. A numbei 
of Scotch and German labourers were sent over ; but all the 
hopes of the corporation were vain. Their injudicious regula- 
tions and restrictions — the wars in which they were involved 
with the Spaniards and Indians — and the frequent insurrections 
among themselves, threw the colony into a state of confusion 
and wretchedness too great for human nature long to endure. 
Their oppressed situation was represented to the trustees by 
repeated complaints ; till at length, finding that the province 
languished under their care, and weary with the complaints of 
the people, they, in the year 1752, surrendered their charter 
to the king, and it was made a royal government. Great had 
been the expence which the mother country had already in- 
curred, besides private benefactions, for supporting this colony ; 
aiid small have been the returns yet made by it. The vestiges 
of cultivation was scarcely perceptible in the forests, and in 
England all commerce with it was neglected and despised. 
At this time the whole annual exports of Georgia did not 
amount to 10,000/. sterhng. 

In the year 1740, the Rev. George Whitefield founded an 
orphan house academy in Georgia, about 12 miles from Savan- 
nah. — For the support of this, in his itinerations, he collected 
large sums of monev of all denominations of Christians, both in 
England and America. He afterwards made his assignment 
of the orphan-house in trust to the countess of Huntingdon. 
Soon after his death a charter was granted to his institution in 
Georgia, and the Rev. Mr. Percy was appointed president of 
the college. Mr. Percy accordingly came over to execute his 
office, but, unfortunately, on the 80th of May, 1775, the 
orphan-house building caught fire, and was entirely consuvnedj 
except the two wings. 

From the hme Georgia became a royal government, in 1752, 
till the peace of Paris, in 1763, she struggled under many diffi- 
culties, arising from the want of credit, friends, and the frequent 
molestations of enemies. The good effects of the peace were 
sensil)ly felt in the province of Georgia. From this time it 
began to flourish, under the fatherly care of governor Wright. 



UNITED STATES. 269 

During the late war, Georgia was over-run by tlie Britisli 
froous, and the inhabitants were obhged to flee into the neigh- 
bouring states for safety. The sufferings and losses of her 
citizens were as great, in pi'oportion to their numbers and 
wealth, as in any of the states. Since the peace, the progress 
of the population of this state has been astonishingly rapid. 
Its growth in improvement and population has been checked 
by the hostile irruptions of the Creek Indians. 



THE FLORIDAS. 

npHE Floridas has now become a province of the United 
States ; and must prove an invaluable acquisition, whether 
we consider the cecession in a natural, or political point of view. 
It has been effected by a master-piece of policy, and must 
cause some agitations in many of the European courts. The 
American government dispatched agents to visit the states in 
South America, which were shaking off" the Spanish yoke, and 
lest this should be a precursor to the acknowledgment of their 
independence, Spain agreed to surrender the Floridas. This 
event was also no doubt accelerated by a party of the American 
army, by way of employing themselves, seizing upon the key 
of this country, which shewed, that whenever the order was 
issued, its conquest could be easily effected. What makes 
this bargain more valuable to the States, is, that the purchase- 
money is to be paid by the government to its own citizens for 
past injuries received from Spain. 

What the consequence of this immense addition of empire 
and sea-coast may be, it would not be difficult to conjecture. 
Commanding the gulf of Mexico, and brought now into the 
neighbourhood of the West India islands, and with a powerful 
and growing navy, these colonies would fall within the grasp 



270 VIEW OF THE 

of America, or be revolutionized at the beginning of the very 
first war that may commence between the two countries. At 
least, the soil and climate of the Floridas are so excellently si- 
tuated for the growth of West India produce, that the enter- 
prising citizens of the United States will soon become powerful 
competitors with the English planter in the markets of Europe. 
Florida is bounded on the north by Georgia, on the east 
by the Atlantic, on the south by the gulf of Mexico, and on 
the west by the Mississippi. East Florida extends much fur- 
ther south than West Florida ; the gulf of Mexico washing the 
western coast from 25 to 30 deg. north lat. ; whereas the most 
southern part of West Florida is in north lat. 29 deg. 30 min. 
The form of East Florida is triangular, the base towards the 
north being 160 miles in breadth from east to west, near the 
southern extremity about 40, and about 350 from north to 
south. Along the coasts the bays of small islands are nume- 
rous. The soil near the sea coast is sandy and barren, but 
further inland it improves. The productions are chiefly rice 
and indigo. West Florida is about 320 miles from east to 
west, and from 40 to 80 in width from north to south ; on the 
west it is bounded by the river Mississippi, and on the east 
by Appalachicola. The country is pleasant, and the soil is 
exceedingly fertile, so that the inhabitants have sometimes two 
or three harvests of maize in the same year. Towards the 
coast it is flat, but rises gradually into hills, which are covered 
with verdure and large trees, such as white and red oak, mul- 
berry, magnolia, pine, hiccory, cypress, red and white cedar, &c. 
Orange and lemon trees grow here without cultivation, and 
produce better fruit than in Spain and Portugal. They have 
also vines, which yield grapes equal in size and flavour to the 
best muscadine ; and they have abundance of other fruits of 
excellent flavour. The cabbage tree furnishes a food that is 
pleasant and wholesome. Cotton is produced in great plenty ; 
as well as flax and hemp. Among the richer productions of 
the country we may reckon cochineal and indigo. The coasts 
furnish oysters and amber. The rivers abound in fish, but 
are molested by alligators. In the western parts are nume- 
rous herds of cattle and flocks of sheep : hogs also, whose 



UNITED STATES. 271 

flesh acquires an excellent flavour from the acorns and ches- 
nuts on which they feed, are numerous. In the forests and 
deserts are found several species of wild beasts, and also a 
variety of birds. In summer the air is very hot, but in seve- 
ral places it is pure and wholesome ; the winter is commonly 
temperate, though the cold sometimes destroys the orange 
trees. The rivers are covered with ice. 

The principal town in West Florida is Pensaeola, and in 
East Florida St Augustine. The population of West Florida 
is very inconsiderable; Mobile and Pensaeola together not 
containing above 1500 souls. The interior of East Florida is 
little known, and only inhabited by a few Creeks or Seminols. 
— The town of St. Augustine in East Florida is less healthy 
than some have supposed it to be ; but the climate, and also 
the general appearance of the country, would be much im- 
proved, if industry and labour were bestowed upon it, and 
the inland marches properly drained. 

This country is said to been discovered by Sebastian Cabot 
in the year 1496, 18 years before it was known to the Spani- 
ards; but received its name from John Ponce, who, sailing 
from Porto Rico in 1-513, landed here ]n April, when the 
country appeared in full verdure and bloom. Florida has 
frequently changed its master; in 1564, the French took pos- 
session of some part of it, but they were driven from their 
settlements in the following year by the Spaniards, who then 
began to form establishments for themselves. In the year 
1763 Florida was ceded to Great Britain in exchange for the 
Havannali, which had been taken from the Spaniards. AVhilst 
the English were in the possession of it they divided it into 
two governments, viz. East and West Florida, separated by 
the Appalachicola. During the American war, both the Flo- 
ridas were reduced by the Spaniards, and guaranteed to the 
crown of Spain by the definitive treaty of 1783. 

This country has now added more splendour to the star 
"Spangled banner of the United States. 



272 VIEW OF THE 



TENNESSEE. 

Situation and Extent. ^HE state of Tenessee is situated be- 
tween 35 deg, and 36 deg. 30 min. 
of north lat. and 4 deg. 26 min. and 13 deg. 9 min. west long, 
from Washington. It is bounded on the north by the states 
of Kentucky and Virginia ; south by the states of Mississippi 
and Georgia, and the AUbama territory ; east by North Caro- 
hna, and west by the river Mississippi. The boundary Une 
on the south side is the parallel of 35, on the north side the 
parallel of 36, 30, and on the east the Alleghany mountains, 
which separate the state from North Carolina. Its length 
from east to west is 445 miles, and its breadth from north 
to south 104. Area 63,000 square miles, or 40,320,000 acres. 
Natural Georaphy. — The state of Tennessee is marked by 
bold features. It is washed by the Mississippi on the west, 
and the fine rivers Tenessee and Cumberland, pass through it 
by very serpentine courses. The western part is mostly level, 
the middle, like Kentucky, hilly but not mountainous ; the 
eastern part, known by the name of East Tennessee, is wholly 
araona: the mountains. These mountains are a continuation of 
the ridges which pass through the northern states, and are 
said to be very beautiful ; the country among them forming 
the most delightful residence of any in the state, in consequence 
of which it is rapidly settling. Besides the principal rivers 
already alluded to, there arc a great number of lesser rivers and 
small streams, but they are all tributary to the Tennessee and 
Cumberland, except a few of no great length that run into 
the Mississippi. None of the waters of this state run to the 
eastward, but the head waters of the Tennessee interlock with 
the rivers of Georgia, wliich determines the boundaiy be- 
tween those states and North (!aro!ina to be the highest land 
in this part of the United States. 



UNITED STATES. 273 

Iron ore is found in abundance in this state, and a consider- 
able part of the country is, like Kentucky, bedded on lime- 
stone. Copperas, alum, nitre, lead, and some silver have been 
found ; and pit-coal is supposed to be plenty through the 
state, but, owing to the quantity of wood, it is not much 
sought for. Saltpetre is an article of commerce, and there are 
several salt-springs which supply the state with that necessary 
article. Some other mineral springs have been discovered. 

The soil is different in different parts of the country. In 
East Tennessee the land is good along the banks of the river, 
and in the valleys; the mountains are poor in soil, but they 
afford good pasture for sheep and cattle. In the middle part, 
the soil is pretty similar to that in Kentucky, and the low lands 
in the western parts are composed of a rich black vegetable 
earth. 

The climate in East Tennessee, among the mountains is 
delightful. The heats of summer are so tempered by the 
mountain air, that in point of climate this is among the most 
desirable residences in all the United States. The middle 
part has a climate very similar to Kentucky, but, being farther 
to the south, it is warmer, and more congenial to the culture 
of cotton, and other articles raised in the southern states. The 
western part being low, the air in summer is hot and moist, 
and the people are a good deal subject to fever and ague, and 
bilious fever, during the fall. 

Population. — In the year 1817, the number of inhabitants 
in this state amounted to 489,624, which is above 7f persons 
to a square mile. Amongst these there are about 50,000 
slaves. 

Manners, ^c. — The population of this state, consisting 
chiefly of emigrants from the Carolinas, Virginia, and ' 
Georgia; from the New England states and Europe, has 
scarcely any uniform character. They are said to be some- 
what rough in their manners, but high-spirited and hospitable. 
A taste for reading prevails among many of them ; and be-' 
sides the Bible and newspapers, Salmagundy, the Olive Branch, 
and the History of the Late War, are works in great request. 
They cherish in their hearts a love of hberty, and a strong 

2 M 



^m VIEW OF THE 

attachment to their country. They are all good horsemen;, 
and expert at the rifle. Their stockings, clothes, and bed- 
ding, and even their candles and shoes, are generally of do- 
mestic manufacture. Gaming is not so common as it was, 
since the law was passed, disqualifying persons convicted of 
practising it from holding any civil or military office for five 
years, and fining him in fifty dollars besides. Licensed tavern- 
keepers take an oath not to permit gaming in their houses. 
The practice of duelling has ceased, since the act passed against 
it by the assembly, subjecting the parties to outlawry. 

Chief Towns. — The principal towns are Knoocville, in East 
Tennessee, and Nashville, in West Tennessee. Knoxville is 
the seat of government, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. 
Nashville is situated on the Cumberland river, and is a place 
of considerable commerce particularly in dry goods, groceries, 
and cotton. There are a considerable number of smaller 
towns, but they are of no great importance. 

Trade and Reso^irses. — The value of houses and lands in 
this state in 1815, was estimated at 34,415,971 dollars, and 
the gross value of manufactures in the preceding year was 
stated at 4,000,000 of dollars. 

The exports consist of cotton, tobacco, hemp, horses, live 
cattle, Indian corn, pork, fowls, potatoes, flour, saltpetre, flax, 
deer skins, ginseng, lumber, iron. The great staple produc- 
tions are saltpetre, tobacco, cotton, hogs, and cattle. The 
imports consist chiefly of dry goods and groceries imported in 
waggons to East Tennessee from Philadelphia and Baltimore, 
and to West Tennessee by land to Pitsburgh, and thence 
ilown the Ohio and up the Cumberland river. Orleans sugar, 
and some articles of groceries, are imported thence by the 
Mississippi : the freight was 5| dollars per hundred Aveight by 
common boats, but is probably reduced since steam-boats were 
established. Nashville, situated on the south side of the Cumber- 
land river, 190 miles from its mouth, with a population of 
800 inhabitants, has 27 mercantile stores. The great channel 
of trade is the Mississippi, and New Orleans the place of de- 
posit. Other channels of shorter communication with the 
Mobile tide water have been projected ; between the Hudassee 



UNITED STATES. 275 

«nd Coosee rivers for the country of East Tennessee, and be- 
tween, the Occachappo and Tombeckby for West Tennessee. 
Education. — There are four Incorporated colleges, three of 
which in East Tennessee were incorporated by the territorial 
government, and a donation of 100,000 acres of land was 
granted by congress for their support. 

Religion. — The religious denominations in this state are 
presbyterians, baptists, Roman catholics, j^rotestants, episco- 
palians, and methodists. According to the report of the 
general convention of baptists, held at Philadelphia, in May 
1817, the number of their churches in Tennessee was 1G9, of 
members 9704. 

Government. — This state is divided into East and West 
Tennessee. East Tennessee is only one fourth part of the 
state, and is subdivided into 17 counties. West Tennessee 
is subdivided into 21 counties. 

The constitution of this state declares, that all power is in- 
herent in the people — that all men have a right to worship 
God according to the dictates of their consciences, and that no 
preference shall ever be given by law to any religious esta- 
blishment — that elections shall be free and equal; — and that 
the trial by jury shall remain inviolate. 

The government is legislative, executive, and judicial. — 
The legislature consist of representatives and senators, who 
are chosen for two years, and must be possessed of 200 acres 
of land in the county for which they are chosen. The gover- 
nor must be possessed of 500 acres of land, and is also elected 
for two years. All free males of 21 years of age, who pay 
taxes, have a vote. The judiciary is vested in such superior 
and inferior courts as the legislature may appoint; the judges 
are appointed by the legislature, and hold their offices during 
good behaviour. 

History. — This country, which formed a part of Carolina, 
according to the second charter of Charles II. was inhabited 
by the Cherokee Indians, by whom the first colonists, consist- 
ing of above GO families, in the year 1754, were nearly de- 
stroyed. Their settlements were not renewed till 1774, when 
the Indians, refusing to join the British standard, were at- 



^76 VIEW OF THE 

tacked and driven towards the Kenhawa. The country then 

belonged to North Carolina, and delegates, in 1776, were 
sent from this district to the convention held for the purpose 
of forming a state constitution. In 1789 it was ceded by 
Carohna to the United Stales, and in 1796 was received into 
the federal union, and a constitution formed and ratihed by 
the free inhabitants. 



LOUISIANA. 

Situation and Extent. HP HIS is an immense territory, 

bounded by the Mississippi on 
the eaSt ; by the Spanish possessions on the west ; by Orleans 
tjerritory and the gulf of Mexico on the south, and on the 
north by the British possessions. It extends from the gulf of 
Mexico, in lat. 28 de^. to 48 deg. north, and from west long. 
12 deg. 50 min. to 35 deg. ; being 1494 miles long, from north to 
soutlu and, though the western boundary has not been clearly 
ascertained, the breadth "may be assumed at 886 miles. Its 
area may be computed at nearly 985,250 square miles ; but 
the state of Louisiana proper contains only 49,000 square miles. 

The following estimate was made in 1814, the state being 
divided into three great sections: 1. The north-west section, 
including Red river and the Washita country, of 21,649 
square miles, 12,700 inhabitants ; 2. The south-west, includ- 
ing those of Opelousas and Atakapas, 12,100 square miles, 
13,800 ; 3. The south-east, including New Orleans and West 
Florida, 12,120, 75,200. In all, 101,700. 

Natural Geography. — In such an amazing extent of terri- 
tory the face of the country must be exceedingly diversified. 
Towards the south the land is low, and in many places over- 
flowed by rivers. To the north it becomes elevated, in many 



UNITED STATES. 377 

places swelling out into large hills ; and towards the west 
there are very lofty mountains. 

The rivers are numerous and extensive, and form a remark- 
able feature in the geography of this country. The Mississippi 
washes it on the east, including its windings, upwards of 2000 
miles, and it has in the interior some of the finest rivers in the 
world. 

The principal river is the Missouri, which, indeed, is the 
largest branch of the Mississippi. The sources of this river 
are still unknown, although one of its branches was navigated 
by Lewis and Clarke 3090 miles, where it is inclosed by very 
lofty mountains. Below this 242 miles, there is a confluence 
of three different branches of the head waters, in lat. 45 deg. 
23 min. ; from thence the river appears to bend considerably 
to the north- ward, the great falls being in lat, 47 deg. 3 min., 
distant from the mouth of the river 2575 miles. These falls 
are 18 miles long, and in that distance descend 362 feet. The 
first great pitch is 98 feet, the second 19, the third 48, the 
fourth 26, -and other pitches and rapids make up the quantity 
above mentioned. In lat. 47 deg. 24 min., the river forms a 
junction with another nearly as large, and it is here 372 yards 
broad. In lat. 47 deg., 2270 miles from its outlet, it is clear 
and beautiful, and 300 yards wide. At 1888 miles from its out- 
let it is 527 yards wide, its current deep, rapid, and full of 
sand bars. At 1610 miles a fort has been erected, called fort 
Mandan. in lat. 47 deg. 21 min. ; and here the winters are 
represented as being very cold. From thence to the mouth 
the navigation is very good, the current being deep and rapid, 
and the water muddy. Its breadth is various, from 300 to 
800 yards ; and at the outlet in 38 deg. 45 min. it is about 
700 yards broad. In its progress it is augmented by a vast 
number of streams, the principal of which are Yellow Stone,. 
Little Missouri, Piatt, Kanzas, and Osage. 

The Moin, a very considerable river, falls into the Missis- 
sippi about 200 miles above the Missouri, and below the falls 
of St. Anthony, in lat. 45 deg., St. Peter's river, a very large 
'Stream, falls into the Mississippi. 



§78 VIEW OF THE 

St. Francis rises near St. Louis, and running nearly a south 
course, upwards of 350 miles, falls into the Mississippi, in lat. 
44 deg. 45. min., by a channel 200 yards broad. It is said to 
be navigable 200 miles. 

Arkansas is a very large river, rising in Mexico, and run- 
ning a south-east course, falls into the Mississippi, in lat. 
33 deg. 45 min. ; being navigable 300 or 400 miles. 

Red river, and Black river, are two very large streams, 
rising between the lat. of 35 and 36 deg., about 100 miles 
apart; and running nearly 600 miles, they form a junction 
about 23 miles from the Mississippi, which they enter in lat. 
31 deg. 5 min., 1014 miles below the Missouri. 

There are a great number of rivers to the westward, falling 
into the gulf of Mexico ; but owing to the country being little 
known, they do not seem to have excited much interest. One 
of the principal is the Sabine, the western boundary of the 
Orleans territory. 

The territory is said to abound in valuable minerals, of 
every description : but the branch that seems to have excited 
greatest attention is the lead mines, near St. Genevieve, which 
yield annually a vast quantity of that useful commodity. 

The soil and climate of Louisiana are said to be similar in 
every respect to that of the countries lying parallel to it east 
of the Mississippi. Near that river the soil is rich, and the 
climate temperate ; but it becomes more cold to the westward, 
and towards the mountains the cold is represented as being 
very severe; the soil being sterile, and the brooks in many 
places strongly impregnated with salt. 

The climate of this country varies in different parts. From 
the sea to point Coupee it seldom snows, nor does it ever freeze, 
except in the months of December and January and when the 
wind is from the north or north-west. It appears to be well 
ascertained, that there is here less heat and more moisture 
than in similar latitudes on the eastern continent, and the 
climate is generally very mild. In winter the thermometer 
seldom falls more than two degrees below the freezing point. 
In July there are heavy rains and thunder, and the heat is 



UNITED STATES. 279 

then at its maximum ; but it continues without much diminu- 
tion till the close of September, the thermometer ranging be- 
tween 80 deg. and 87 deg., and sometimes rising above 90 deg. 
The most unhealthy months are August and September, when 
the miasma exhaled from decaying animal and vegetable mat- 
ters are most abundant, and most injurious to the human 
frame. At this season bilious disorders prevail, especially in 
new settlements. A more familiar idea of the climate of this 
country may be derived from the developement of its vegetable 
productions. About the 1st of February peach and plumb 
trees, peas, and strawberries, are in blossom. About the 1st 
of March, the trees generally are in leaf, or in blossom. Peas 
are ripe towards the middle of June, and the earlier fruit be- 
fore the close of July. Spring regularly commences with 
southern breezes, the warmth of which is so favourable to 
vegetation, that it is here more advanced in April than in 
May, in the northern states. Hurricanes were experienced 
in 1780 and 1794, in the month of August. The wind blew 
with violence during twelve hours, and so retarded the current 
of the Mississippi, that it overflowed its banks, and inundated 
the country from two to ten feet, as high as the English turn. 
These storms were accompanied with thunder, and with hail- 
stones of uncommon size. In 1802 the engineer who directed 
the works of fort Plaquemines, situated at the distance of 
twelve or thirteen leagues from the sea, was drowned in his 
cabin, by a sudden rising of the waters. The workmen and 
garrison found refuge in the most elevated part of the fort, 
where there was from two to three feet water. 

Population. — In the year 1712 the colony of Louisiana 
consisted of 400 whites and 20 negro slaves. In 1817 the 
population was estimated at 108,923, which is not much above 
two persons to a square mile. 

Manners, S^c. — The character of the people in this coun- 
try will be given in our description of the capital. New Or- 
leans. They are gay and lively, and their manners are 
pretty much assimilated to those of the French. But the 
brutalizing efl^ects of slavery tend to corrupt the morals of all 
classes. 



280 VIEW OF THE 

Chief Towns. — Neto Orlecms is situated in lat. S9 deg. fiT 
min., and it is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one 
another at right angles ; but they are narrow, being generally 
not more than 40 feet in breadth. The houses in the princi- 
pal streets are built of brick, but the others mostly of wood. 
The middle of the streets are unpaved, and, in wet weather, 
are very muddy ; but the town is well supplied with good 
side pavements. The city extends nearly a mile along the 
river, and is about half a mile broad. There is a square in 
the centre, which is covered with grass, and contains the 
cathedral and town-house. There is a market-house of con- 
siderable extent, and it is well supplied with vegetables, but 
the meat and fish are said to be poor. 

The city lies below the surface of the river, on which there 
is an embankment, called a levee to defend it and the adjacent 
country from being overflowed. This levee, is of great extent, 
running more than 130 miles up the country, and on the top 
of it there is an excellent dry road. A plan has lately been 
agreed upon for supplying the city with water from the Mis- 
sissippi, which will add much to the comfort and health of the 
inhabitants. 

A winter residence in this city is said to be very pleasant ; 
but it is generally sickly in summer, arid many of the people 
leave it for two or three months. As it is, however, the great 
mart for receiving the commodities which are shipped from the 
Mississippi river, it will always continue to be a place of great 
trade, and will increase, probably, to a greater extent than 
any sea-port in America. 

Except in domestic manufactures, which do not appear to 
be carried on to a great extent, there are no material manufac- 
tures here, and in all probability the trade of this place will 
continue for a long time to be an object of solicitude to the 
manufacturing districts; particularly Pittsburg, and Lexing- 
ton, in Kentucky ; and on the other hand, from the increase 
of cotton and sugar, a great trade will always be supported 
between New Orleans and the cities on the Atlantic. The 
direct exports of 1810 amounted to 1,897,522 dollars; but it 
is to be observed, that the greatest part of the exports are by 



UNITED STATES. «81 

the way of tlie eastern states, np part of which is entered at 
the custom-house. 

' The French language,'' says a recent traveller, ' is still 
predominant in New Orleans. The population is said to be 
30,000 ; two-thirds of which do noj spealc English. The 
appearance of the people too was French, and even the ne- 
groes evinced, by their antics, in rather a ludicrous manner, 
their connection with the natives of that nation. 

' The general manners and habits are very relaxed. The 
tirst dav of my residence here was Sunday, and I was not a 
little surprised to find in the United States the markets, shops, 
theatre, circus, and public ball-rooms open. Gambling-houses 
throng- the city : all coffee-houses, together with the exchange, 
are occupied from morning until night by gamesters. It is said, 
that when the Kcntuckians arrive at this place, they are in 
their glory, finding neither limit to, nor punishment of their 
excesses. The general stylo nl" living is luxurious. Houses are 
elegantly furnished. The ball-room, at Davis^s hotel, I have 
never seen exceeded in splendour. Private dwellings partake 
of the same character ; and the ladies dress Avith expensive 
elegance. The sources of public amusement are numerous 
and varied. 

* I visited tlie theatre : it is an old building, about two- 
thirds the size of the little theatre in the Haymarket. The 
play was John of Calais, well performed by a French com- 
pany to a French audience At a tavern opposite I witnessed 
a personal confiict, in v/hich I supj)ose one of the parties was 
d'lrlvd. These things are of e very-day occurrence; and it is 
not often that they are taken cognizance of by the police. 

' I was present at a criminal trial : the pleadings were a 
mixture of French and English. 'J'he jury consisted of ten 
French, and two Americans. The counsel were equally 
divided, being two of each language : tlve judge was American. 
The French counsel requested leave to (juote the code 
Napoleon, which was granted, on condition that he should 
explain to the French piu't of the jury that it was not law, 
and that he adduced it on the same principle that he would 
the works of a poet, merely to illustrate his ideas. Tlio 



282 VIEW OF THE 

English law is the law of Louisiana, with such additions as 
local circumstances have rendered necessary ; one of which 
that was cited upon this occasion, is a law against biting off" 
the ear, the nose, tearing out the eyes, &c. 

'Provisions are of very bad quality, and most enormously 
dear. Hams and cheese from England, potatoes, butter, and 
beef from Ireland, are common articles of import. Cabbages 
are now ten-pence per head ; turkeys, three to five dollars 
each. Rents ai-e also very extravagant. Yet to all men 
whose desire only is to be rich, and to live a short life but a 
merry one, I have no hesitation in recommending New Orleans.' 

In 1808, the professions and trades at New Orleans were 
as follows ; merchants, 60 ; printers, 7 ; innkeepers, 9 ; pro- 
fessors, 6 ; apothecaries, 5 ; lawyers, 24 ; physicians and sur- 
geons, 18; dentists, 2. 

The inhabitants of this city arc sensible of the advantages 
resulting from their connection with the United States, and 
though composed of men of every country in Europe, they 
are united by tlie strongest zeal in support of the government. 
Free trade is found to be far more advantageous than mono- 
poly ; trial by jury is acknowledged to be preferable to military 
law ; and elective authority far more desirable than the abso- 
lute rule of a military commander. In the course of a vei'y 
few years, the poj^ulation of the city of New Orleans has in- 
creased from 10,000 to 30,000 ; and many ol' the j)roprietors 
who were in a state of indigence under thedominion of Spain, 
have I'isen to sudden wealth by the rise on the value of land, 
which followed the change of government. Among the new 
buildings are a legislative hall, a Imll of justice, and an office 
of insurance. Two banks and an inland navigation company 
have been established ; and what is still of greater importance, 
a college or seminary of learning. There are five weekly 
newspapers ; the Courier, and the Ami des Loi.s\ in French, 
and the Loitisiana Gazette^ the Orleans Gazette, and a Price 
Current, or Commercial Register, in English. 

This city enjoys the most advantageous situation of any 
place upon the face of the earth, and as it nuist become the 
^rand <'niporium of all the interior regions of North America, 



UNITED STATES. 28^ 

it will probably surpass the most flourishing city in ancient 
times and dispute the palm of eminence with the proudest 
capital in P^urope. The English ministry in their late bold, 
though unsuccessful attempt to seize upon this place, seemed 
to acknowledge its vast importance. 

Trade and Resources. — The surplus productions of an im- 
mense country watered by the Ohio, Missouri, Red river, and 
other great branches of the Mississippi, will naturally descend 
to New Orleans, and be thence transported to Mexico or the 
West Indies. Besides, there will be a constant exchange of 
commodities with the more northern states. In 1804, the 
exports from New Orleans amounted to 1,600,362 dollars. 
The quantity of sugar imported into the United States, in 
1802, from Louisiana and the Floridas, amounted to 
1,576,933 pounds. In 1809, the exports were, cotton, 
3500 bales; sugar, 12,000 barrels; tobacco, 3000; flour, 
250,000. 

The exports of this state, says the author of the Western 
Gazetteer, already exceed those of all the New England states, 
by more than 150,000 dollars a-year. Between 300 and 400 
sea vessels arrive and depart annually ; 937 vessels of all de- 
nominations departed during the year 1816, from the Bayou 
St. John, a port of delivery in the district of Mississippi. 
The tonnage of these vessels is calculated at 16,000 tons; 
they are chiefly employed iii carrying the produce of that part 
of the Floridas belonging to the United States, consisting of 
barks, coals, cotton, corn, furs, hides, pitch, planks, rosin, 
skins, tar, timber, turpentine, sand, shells, lime, &c. The 
produce received at this city from the upper country is im- 
mense, 594 flat-bottomed boats, and 300 barges, have arrived 
within the last year from the western states and territories. 
The quantity of sugar made on the Mississippi alone, is esti- 
mated by a late writer at 10,000,000 of pounds; 20,000 bales 
of cotton were exported in 1812. 

Religion. — The clergy, before the late cession of Louisiana, 
consisted of a non-resident bishop, who had 4000 dollars a-year, 
from the revenue of certain bishoprics in Mexico and the isle 
of Cuba ; of two canons, with a levenue each of 600 dollars ; 



28i V lEW OF THE 

and of 25 cures, of which five were for New Orleans, and 20 
for the difl'erent parishes of the provinces, having each from 
360 to 480 dollars a-year. All these disbursements, except 
the pay of the bishop, and the expences of the chapel, were 
paid bv the treasury of New Orleans, and amounted annually 
to tlie sum of 13,000 dollars. The convent of Ursulines, 
established in 1727, by the Company of the West, for the 
education of female orphans, contained, a few years ago, 28 
nuns. The establishment is under the direction of 13 religieu- 
4t'S. In the same building, a public school has been established 
for the instruction of day-scholars, at a dollar a-year, of whom 
the number, at the above period, was 80. 

Government. — The territory of Louisiana, as ceded to the 
United States, has been divided into two territorial govern- 
ments, tapper and Lower Louisiana. It is the latter which 
we are now treating upon, and which is also called the Orleans 
Territory. It is divided into 12 counties. 

In January 1812, a convention of the representatives of Slie 
people met at New Orleans, and framed and signed a constitu- 
tion, which was afterwards approved by the congress of the 
United States. This constitutiou resembles those of the other 
states of the Union, though more precautions seem to have 
been taken against corruption and abuse of power. Tlie legis- 
lative authority is vested in a luiuse of representatives and a 
senate. The electors consist of every free white male citizen, 
who has attained the age of 21 years, who has resided in the 
county in which he votes one year next preceding the election, 
and who has paid state tax the last six months prior thereto; 

The judicial power is vested in a supreme court and inferior 
court. The jurisdiction of the former extends to ail civil cases, 
when the matter in dispute exceeds the sum of 300 dollars. 
The judges of both hold their office during good behaviour. 
The supreme court consists of not less than three, nor of more 
than five judges, the majority forming a quorum. The .salary 
of each is fixed at 5000 dollars. The state is divided into two 
districts of ;i})pe!ate jurisdiction, the eastern and western. 

Jlh'toj-^'. — The existence of the Mis.sissippi was first made 
known to the French colonists in Canada, by the Indians^ 



UNITED STATES. 285 

about 1660. In the year 1680, De la Salle, in hopes of find- 
ing an easy route to the Southern ocean, by this great river, 
passed down the Illinois, and descended with some of his 
party to the Mexican gulf; while father Hennepin, a Fran- 
ciscan friar, Ducan, and others, ascended 300 leagues to the 
falls of St. Anthony, by the Ohio. The former took posses- 
sion of the country in the name of the king ; and returning to 
Montreal, he proceeded to France to solicit his pennissi m to 
enter the Mississippi by sea. Encouraged in this enterprise, 
he sailed for the gulf of Mexico, but, owing to the low situa- 
tion of the coast arid strength of the current, he was carried 
considerably to the west of this river, and disembarked at the 
mouth of the Guadaloupe, in the bay of St. Bernard, in the 
year 1684. He planted the French standard on the river 
Colorado, or the Aux Cannes, and shortly after fell a victim 
to the perfidy of his men ; but some of his companions return- 
ed to Canada. 

In the year 1696 the Spaniards, jealous of the discoveries 
of the French, established Pensacola, to the east of the river 
Perdido. The first who entered the Mississippi by sea was 
Le Moine d'Hibberville, a Canadian naval officer of great 
reputation, who, in 1699, laid the foundation of the first co- 
lony at Biloxi. In order to people the country there were 
sent from France a number of young women, and soldiers 
who had been labourers; who received cattle and grants of 
land, and were provided with cattle, poultry, and grain. The 
colony was transferred in 1702 from Biloxi, to the isle of Dau- 
phin, but did not prosper. In 1708 new colonists were sent 
from France inider the direction of the commissary D'Artag- 
nette, and two years afterwards isle Dauphin was plundered 
by the English. Several different settlements were afterwards 
f()rmed in these vast regions; and in 1718, New Orleans, which 
previoiisly consisted of a few hovels was extended under the 
direction of De la Tour. For some time, French criminals 
and women of bad fame were imported ; but this practice was 
soon discontinued. At length the impolitic expulsion of the 
Jew.s, and the hostihty of the Indians caused a dissolution of 
the company who claimed this colony. 



28a VIEW OF THE 

In 1762, the cabinet of Versailles, fearing that the loss of 
her northern possessions in Canada would bring about that of 
the country of Louisiana, the colony, by a secret treaty, Avas 
ceded to Spain, as an indemnity for expences incurred during 
the war ; and at the same time, the Floridas were made over 
to England. In 1764, Don Antonio de Uiloa arrived at New 
Orleans in quality of Spanish governor, with a detachment of 
troops ; and finding that the inhabitants were strongly inclined 
to remain under the French domination, and that the expences 
of the government would far exceed the amount of revenue, 
he wrote to his court against the cession, and remained two 
years in the country without taking possession of it in a formal 
manner. 

In the year 1769, O'Reilly, in quality of governor and 
intendant general, arrived with 4500 regular troops, a good 
train of artillery, stores, and annmmition, with which he drove 
away all the English protestants and Jews, prohibited all 
commerce except with Spain and her islands, and established 
a court martial for the trial of the French officers who remain- 
ed, five of whom were shot, and seven sent to confinement for 
ten years in the Moro castle at the Havannah. This conduct 
inspired a general indignation against him, and the colony was 
happily delivered from his violence by his removal in 1770. 
In 1780, the English fort of Mobile surrendered to the Spanish 
governor, which led lo the reduction of Peusacola, in conse- 
quence of which, West Florida fell into the hands of Spain. 
In 1795, a treaty was entered into between the United States 
and Spain, by which a line of boundary was agreed to, and 
the free navigation of the river secured. In 1798, all the 
Spanish posts to the north of the 31st degree were evacuated; 
and the year following, the line of demarcation between Spain 
and the United States was settled by commissioners. Not- 
withstanding these treaties, Spanish privateers and ships of 
war com.mitted spoliations on the commerce of the United 
States ; and the free navigation of the Mississippi, and the 
right of deposit at New Orleans, was refused. This induced 
the president of the United States to prepare a force on the 
river Ohio to act against this colony, which, however, from a 



UNITED STATES. 287 

change of political circumstances, was disbanded in 1800. 
The year following, Mr. Jefferson, who was called to the pre- 
sidency, demanded from Spain the execution of the treaty ; 
and she, unwilling to comply, and fearing a rupture, sold the 
colony to the French republic, on the 21st of March, 1801. 
The French expedition, prepared in the ports of Holland for 
the purpose of taking possession of this country, was prevent- 
ed from sailing by an English squadron ; and the French go- 
vernment sold it on the 3d of April, 1803, to the United States, 
for the sum of 60,000,000 of francs, in which sum was to be 
included the amount of debts due by Fi'ance to the citizens of 

the United States. 

« 

Upper Louisiana. 

This territory in agriculture and })roduce does not vary 
from the neishbourino- countries. It is divided into the fol- 
lowing districts : St. Charles, St. Louis, St Genevieve, cape 
Gerardeau, New Madrid, Hopefield, and St. Francis, and the 
settlements on the Arkansas. 

The territory of Oilcans being more favourably situated for 
trade, and a disposal of their produce, this territory has as 
yet made no very rapid progress in improvements. The chief 
settlements are near the Missouri, and along the Mississippi 
to New Madrid ; with some on the Arkansas and St. Francis. 
St. Louis is the capital, and contains 1500 inhabitants. It 
is situated on the Mississippi, in lat. 38 deg. 38 min., in a fine 
healthy country, on a bed of limestone, having rich settle- 
ments around it. It is increasing in population and wealth ; 
and several manufactories have been recently established. 

St. Charles, a handsome village, is situated on the left bank 
of the Missouri, 18 miles from St. Louis, by an excellent 
road, leading through a rich country. In 1807, it contained 
500 inhabitants, chiefly French ; but many Americans have 
lately settled in it. St. Genevieve contains about 1200 inha- 
bitants, and is increasing in population and wealth ; having 
about 20 stores, and being the deposite of the })roduce of the 
lead mines. 



288 VIEW OF THE 

Gerardeau is a small town, situated on an eminence on the 
right side of the Mississippi, and contains from 30 to 40 
houses only ; but it has a fine back country, and is improving. 
There is a post road from this place to fort Massac and the 
mouth of the Cumberland river. 

Ne%o Madrid is beautifully situated on the Mississippi ; but 
contains a few houses only. 

The government is the same as the territories east of the 
Mississippi, and to accommodate the white inhabitants, black 
men are kept in slavery by the laws. 



MISSISSIPPI. 



Situation and Extent. 'piIIS state was admitted into the 

Union on the 1st of March 1817. 
It is situated between 30 Aeg. and 35 deg. of north lat., and 
between 11 deg. and 14 deg. 30 min. west long, from Wash- 
ington. Its boundaries, as determined by the act of congress, 
are North by the southern boundary line of the state of Ten- 
nessee to the river of the same name, following its channel to 
the junction of Bear creek. East, by a direct Une drawn 
from this point to the north-west corner of the county of 
Washington ; and thence running due south to the gulf of 
Mexico. South by the Mexican gulf to the most eastern 
junction of Pearl river with lake Borgne, (Including all 
islands within six leagues of the shore,) up this river to the 
31st deg. of lat., and along this parallel to the Mississippi 
river. West, by the Mississippi river. Length, from north 
to south about 340 miles ; Breadth, 150, containing nearly 
55,000 square miles. 

Natural Geography. — A chain of islands stretch along the 
coast, which is indented with bavs, and intersected by numc- 



UNITED STATES. 289 

rous water courses. From the mouth of Pearl river to the 
entrance of Mobile bay, tlie distance is about 100 miles. 
Twenty-five miles east of the former is the bay of St. Louis, 
10 miles in length, and four in breadth. In general, the 
soil and appearance of the country are very uninviting, and 
have been described by the French writers in the most un- 
favourable colours. But these accounts apply only to the 
sea-coast, where the banks of the rivers, to the distance 
of SO or 25 miles, are nearly on a level with its waters, and 
the surface being sandy or marshy, and liable to inundation, 
it is ill fitted for agricultural purposes ; but beyond this dis- 
tance, or the 31st deg. of lat., the soil along the Pearl and 
Pascagoula rivers, from one to three miles in breadth, and 
known in the country bv the name of Swamp, is rich and 
productive, covered in its natural state with a fine growth of 
different trees, cotton-wood, gum, oak, bay, laurel, and mag- 
nolia, intermixed, in the more elevated parts, with lofty cane, 
and, in the low, with cypress. Between these borders the 
soil, to the distance of 100 miles, is generally sandy, and 
covered with the long-leaved pine; but above this again the 
surface gradually rises with a deep vegetable mould, which 
nourishes a fine growth of poplar, oak, hickory, black walnut, 
sugar maple, buck-eye, elm, hack-berry, &c. Towards the 
northern line of demarcation, the surface is more unequal, and 
more fertile; it is of the colour of ashes, and capable of yield- 
ing many successive crops without manure. The rocks are 
calcareo\is, with some mixture of flint, slate, and sandstone. 
The whole surface between the Mississippi river and Yazoo 
branch, to the Tennessee river, is rich, well watered, and 
healthy. The author of the Western Gazetteer considers the 
country bordering on this last river, for 100 miles above and 
below the Mussel Shoals, and for 40 north and south, as the 
garden of North America, and unquestionably the most fa- 
vourable to longevity and human enjoyment. The soil i» 
adapted to corn, sweet potatoes, indigo, cotton, esculent vege- 
tables, and fruit. Even wheat will yield a good productive 
crop. But it is the excellence of the waters, mildness and 
healthfulness of the climate, and proximity to the navigablf 
18 2 O 



290 VIEW OF THE 

waters of Tennessee and Tombigbee, that render it the most 
desirable to new settlers of any of the states or territories with- 
in the limits of the Union. 

The course of the river Mississippi, along the western fron- 
tier, is 572 miles. The Tennessee river forms the north- 
eastern boundary, to the junction of Bear creek, a distance of 
about 50 miles. PascaQvula river runs south 250 miles 
through the central parts of the state to the gulf of Mexico, 
where it forms a broad bay. Pearl river, which separates this 
state from that of Louisiana, is navigable to the distance of 
150 miles from its moutli, but its entrance is obstructed by 
trees and logs, and has only seven feet water. Yazoo river 
rises from several sources near the northern boundary of this 
state, and runs in a south-west course to the Mississippi, 
■which it enters nearly at right angles in lat, 32 deg. 28 min., 
112 miles above Natchez, with an outlet 280 yards wide. 
The Bayou Pierre runs into the Mississippi 40 miles above 
Natchez ; and above this two other streams, called Cole's 
creek and Catharine^s creek, each 40 yards wide. Homochitto 
river rises near Pearl river, south-east of Natchez, and falls 
into an old channel of the Mississippi above Loftus''s heights 
in lat. 31 deg. 12 min. It is a fine stream 60 yards wide. 
There are a number of other streams and creeks. The whole 
navigable waters of this territory form a total extent of 2742 
miles. Coal is said to be found on the Tombigbee, Tennessee, 
Black Warrior, and other streams. 

The two great articles of culture are cotton and Indian corn. 
Cotton is planted in the latter end of February and beginning 
of March. The average pioduce per acre is 1000 pounds in 
the seed. Maize is planted from the 1st of March to- the 1st 
of July, and is of a fine quality in this state, the bushel in 
many parts weighing 70 pounds. Rice is raised in the southern 
parts. Wheat, rye, and oats, do not thrive so well as in the 
northern states, and are not cultivated except for the use of 
the establishment. Horned cattle are so numerous, that some 
farmers have from 500 to 1000 head. 

Population. — The population of this territory does not ex- 
ceed 50,000 persons, of whom nearly one half are slaves. 



UNITED STATES. 291 

CJdef Towns. — NatcJiez, situated on the bank, of tlie Mis- 
sissippi, in lat. 31 deg. {53 min., about 300 miles above New 
Orleans, contains about 150 houses, belonging chicfl}- to cotton 
planters, some of whom have a revenue of from 5000 to 
30,000 dollars a-year. The plantations extend to the distance 
of 20 miles. East of this town, and near to the possessions of 
the Choctaw Indians, the progress of society is evinced by the 
publication of two weekly newspapers. To the north-east of 
Natchez, on the upper branches of St. Catherine's creek, is 
Sefterstorvn, or EUicotvilk\ consisting of 15 or 20 houses. 
On the middle, and between the two principal branches of 
Cole's creek, which unite 15 miles from its entrance into the 
Mississippi, stands the town of Greenville, the capital of Jef- 
ferson county, consisting of between 60 and 70 buildings, 
including the court-house, church, and post-office. A few 
miles, in a south-western direction, is the village of Union- 
town^ which is yet inconsiderable. Two miles below the 
mouth of the Bayou Pierre is Broronshnrg^ where a few fami- 
lies live: and, at the distance of 30 miles from its junction 
with the Mississippi, is Port Gibson, the chief town of Clai- 
borne county, containing about 60 houses, with an academy. 
On Big Black river, which is 12 miles above the former, the 
settlements extend to the distance of 40 miles along its branches. 
Twenty-seven miles above the junction of this river, on the 
upper side of the great western bend of the Mississippi, is 
situated the village of Palmyra, established by emigrants ft'om 
New England, Twenty-hve miles higher up, on the undu- 
lating fertile surface of the Walnut Hills, are fine cotton plan- 
tations. 

Trade ami Resourscs. — Natchez is the only place of con- 
siderable commerce. Beef, pork, and corn, are sent to Mobile 
and Pensacola, from the eastern parts, through the channel 
of the Tombigbee. The surplus productions of the western 
parts pass through the Mississippi. 

Government. — The convention, for the purpose of forming 
a constitution and state government, was composed of repre- 
sentatives from each county, chosen by all the free white male 
citizens, of 21 years of age, who had resided within the terri.? 



292 VIEW OF THE 

tory one year prievous to the election, and paid county or 
territorial tax. This convention, consisting of 48 members 
from the 14< counties, met at the town of Washington, on the 
first Monday of July, 1817. The constitution is similar to 
that of the neighbouring states. 



ALIBAMA TEKKITORY. 

Situation and Extent. "T^HIS territory, including nearly one 

half of the former Mississippi terri- 
tory on the eastern side, and situated between the 30th and 
85th deg. of north lat., was established b}^ an act of the 
American congress, dated the 3d of March, 1817, with the 
following boundaries : From the point where tiie Perchdo river 
intersects the 31st degree of latitude, in an easterly direction, 
to the western boundary line of the state of Georgia ; along 
this line to that of the southern boundary of tl>c state of Ten- 
nessee ; thence westerly to the Tennessee river, and by its 
channel to the mouth of Bear creek ; thence by a direct line to 
the north-west corner of Washington county ; and from this 
point, in a southern direction, to the gulf of Mexico, including 
all the islands within six leagues oi' the shore. It has the state 
of Mississippi on the west, Tennessee on the north, Georgia on 
the east, and the province of West Florida on the south. Its 
area is not properly ascertained, but probably exceeds 40,000 
square miles. 

Naiural Geography. — The largest river of this territory, 
running from north to south, is the Mobile. It is a fine 
stream between 300 and 400 yards in width ; the current 
clear, and running at the rate of two miles an hour. Its tM^o 
great branches, which are known by the names of Tallapoosu 
and Coose, unite at the distance of about 415 miles trom the 



UNITED STATES. 293 

outlet of the Mobile. It has from four to five feet water to 
the junction of the Alibama and Tombigbee, a distance of 45 
miles. The Alibama branch is always navigable for vessels 
drawing six feet water to Fort Claiborne, 60 miles ; and there 
is from four to five feet water 150 miles higher up to the 
mouth of the Cawhaba, which falls in on the western side, and 
thence to the junction of the Cooseand Tallapoose, 160 miles, 
there is three feet of water in the shallowest places, affording 
a good navigation, except along two ripples, which skilful wa- 
termen pass safely by directing the boat with poles. 

Above one half of this territory is poor pine land. To the 
east of the Alibama river, the soil is generally sandy, and co- 
vered with pines, except along the water courses ; and in some 
places it is intersected with rich limestone meadows, and 
ridges of well-timbered land. Colonel Parmentier remarks, 
that, ascending the river from the town of Mobile, you see the 
lands on both sides constantly overflowed. The first dry 
lands are 21 miles above the mouth of the river. Here are 
traces of clay, mixed in layers, or rather in oblique veins, with 
the sand. Throughout the 31st degree of latitude the swamps 
are amazingly productive. Between these marshes or swamps 
and the ferruginous hills, there is a middle tract, rising by a 
gentle ascent, the soil of which is a blackish earth, thickly 
spread with small flint stones, or round quartz. The upper 
region contains an infinite number of siliceous stones, covered 
%vith iron in a sulphureous state. The streams also, which 
flow through it, contain this mineral in a dissolved state. The 
soil of the borders of the Alibama (called pine lands) produces 
maize, cotton, and sugar. Above and below the confluence of 
this river with the Tombigbee there are extensive swamps, 
liable to inundation; and a tract of poor stiff" clay extends 
along their borders, a mile in breadth, terminating in a sandy 
soil. About 50 miles above the union of these two rivers, the 
high broken lands commence, and extend 60 miles northward, 
covered with oak, hickory, cedar, and poplar. The best soil 
for agriculture is between the Alibama and Tombigbee rivers. 
Between the waters of the Alibama and those of the Conecah 
there is a waving plain, 30 miles in length and 20 in width, 



^294> VIEW OF THE 

with ;i dark clayey rich soil, well timbered and watered. Be- 
low this it is gravelly and broken, to the extent of 20 miles, 
where the pine barrens cornnieuce. Around the sources of 
Limestone creek there is a tract of rich land, '20 miles in 
length and eight in breadth, well watered, and covered with 
various kinds of trees, of which the dogwood is the most abun- 
dant, and hence the lands are known b}' this name. 

A chain of mountains runs across this territory on the south- 
ern side of the Tennessee river, from its banks near the mouth 
of Bear creek to Fort Deposit on the eastern side, where it 
takes a northern direction across the river and the northern 
line of boundary. The breadth of this chain opposite INIusscl 
shoals is about 50 miles, in many places it rises to half a mile 
above its base, and is every where impassable for waggons. 
The hills and mountains are all calcareous, exce})t the summit 
of the last, which consists of sandstone. The hills contain a 
gi'eat quantity of iron ore. 

In the low southern parts of this country the heat is very 
great. The climate of the inland and upper parts resembles 
that of Georgia. 

The wild animals are, the panther, bear, wild cat, deei, 
beaver, otter, fox, racoon, squirrel, hare, and rabbit. Alliga- 
tors, from twelve to fifteen feet long, abound in the rivers ; 
snakes in the marshy and wdody places. 

The Creek Indians, known also by the name of Muscogees, 
reside chiefly on the waters of the Alibama and Chatahouche ; 
where, before the late war, they counted 30 towns ; but, du- 
ring that period, their number was greatly reduced. The po- 
pulation is now about 20,000. 

Population. — The present population of the territory is 
estimated at 50,000. The emigration is chiefly from Georgia, 
the Carolinas, Kentucky, and Tennessee. The American 
government lately ceded 100,000 acres of land on the Tom- 
bigbce, near the junction of the Black Warrior branch, to a 
French company, at two dollars an acre, payable in fourteen 
years, on condition of their introducing and cultivating the 
vine and the olive ; but this colony has since removed to thc^ 
frontier country between the United States and Mexico. 



UNITED STATES. 295 

Towns. — The chief town is Mobile. It is situated at the 
entrance of the river of the same name, on a fine plain, about 
20 feet above the usual rise of the water. When taken pos- 
session of by the Americans, it contained about 200 houses. 
Since that period the population has increased daily, and it 
will probably become a great commercial place, the centre of 
trade of an immense country, extending to Tennessee and to 
the frontiers of Georgia. In July, 1817, the population was 
between 1000 and 1500. Tlie houses are of wood, and gene- 
rally one story high. Pensacola, however, affords a better 
road for vessels, as they are sheltered from every wind ; and 
the depth of water on the bar at its entrance, which is never 
less than 21 feet, will admit men-of-war of 60 guns. The port 
of Mobile is the only place in the whole bay which vessels 
drawing twelve feet water can approach. Those that draw 
from ten and a half to eleven feet water sail up Spanish river 
about two leagues, and descend Mobile river to the town, 
which requires but a few hours. Vessels of greater draught 
come within one or two leagues of the town, where they dis- 
charge and take in their cargoes. A quay is now constructing, 
at" the eastern extremity of which there will l3e nine feet water 
at low tide. Between ^lobile bay and Pensacola, a distance 
of TO miles, the country is yet a desert. A village has been 
lately planned, at the mouth of the Tensaw river, on a dry 
elevated surface, where there are fine springs. St. S'tepJwn's, 
the present government, is situated on the west side of Tom- 
bijibee river. 80 miles above the town of Mobile, and at the 
head of sloop navigation ; it contains about .50 houses. There 
is an academy, with 60 or TO students, a j)rinting-office, and 
fifteen stores. The situation, which is well fitted for trade, is 
found to be healthy. 

Commerce. — It was stated in the American journals of April, 
181T, that the importations of the preceding year, at Mobile, 
from Boston, New York, and Xev.- Orleans, chiefly by sea, 
were estimated at 1,000,000 of dollars; that, during the la.st 
six months, 1700 bales of cotton had been shipped there. 
The trade of Maddison county will centre in this place. 



296 VIEW OF THE 

Government. — The country watered by the Alibama is 
formed into a district, under the name of Washington, the 
extent of which, excluding Indian lands, is estimated at 
83,000 square miles. It is subdivided into eight counties. 
The governor and secretary are appointed by the president of 
the United States, with the advice and consent of the senate. 

History. — In 1800, this country (including the present state 
of Mississippi) was placed under a separate territorial govern- 
ment. In 1813 (April) the country situated to the west of 
Perdido river, being included in the cession of Louisiana, was 
taken possession of by the United States; and that portion 
east of Pearl river was annexed to the Mississippi territory. 
In September, 1816, a tract of 13,000 square miles, situated 
on both sides of the Mussel shoals of the Tennessee river, was 
ceded by the Indians to the United States. 



ILLINOIS. 

Situation and Extent. T^HIS territory is situated between 36 

deg. 57 min. and 42 deg. 30 min. 
north lat., aad contains an area of 66,000 square miles, or 42 
millions of acres. Its length from north to south is 380 miles, 
and its breath from east to west 206 miles. It has the north- 
west territory on the north ; the state of Kentucky and the 
Missouri territory on the south and west ; and the state of In- 
diana on the east. 

Natural Geography. — The cliief rivers are the Illinois, 
Kaskaskias, and Stony rivers, all admitting of boat navigation ; 
and tlie Wabash, wliich divides this territory from Indiana, 
The Illinois river rises ner.r the south end of lake Michigan, 
and is fonned by the waters of the Theakiki and Plein rivers. 



UNITED STATES. 297 

which unite in north lat. 41 deg. 48 min. Thence it pursues 
a south-west course of nearly 500 miles to its junction with the 
Mississippi, 18 miles above that of the Missouri, and 84 north 
of the mouth of the Kaskaskias. The Illinois is 400 yards 
wide at its mouth, is boatable to the Little Rocks, 60 miles 
from the Forks or extreme branches, and 270" from its outlet. 

The next river of this territory, in point of magnitude, is 
the Kaskaskias, which issues from the meadows to the south 
of lake Michigan, and falls into the Mississippi 84 miles south 
of the Illinois, after a south-south-westerly course of 200 miles, 
130 of which from its mouth it is navigable for boats and small 
craft. It runs through a rich country abounding in extensive 
meadows covered with the richest pasture. 

The southern part of this territory between the Mississippi 
and the Ohio is very level, and is, in some parts, subject to 
inundation. This increases the depth and fertility of the soil, 
and renders it even too rich for many agricultural purposes. 
A tract extending from the mouth of the Wabash, and along 
the Mississippi, 80 miles in length and five in breadth, is of 
this description, and is very unhealthy. The rest of the coun- 
try is very similar to Indiana, but more picturesque, particu- 
larly between Vincennes and St. Louis, where rich meadows 
and beautiful woods alternately present themselves. Along 
the Little Wabash, the soil of the prairies is a rich fine black 
mould, inclining to sand, from one to three or four feet deep, 
lying on sandstone or clayey loam, and remarkably easy of 
cultivation. Between the Kaskaskias and Illinois rivers, 84 
miles distant, the surface is level till within fifteen miles of the 
latter, where it terminates in a high ridge. Charlevoix de- 
scribes the north-western parts which he visited as rich, beau- 
tiful, and well watered. The climate being very temperate, 
cattle and sheep would multiply prodigiously ; and the wild 
buffaloes might be tamed, and great advantages might be 
drawn from a trade in their wool and hides. The high 
grounds continue along the eastern side of the Kaskaskias river, 
at a small distance from it, to the Kaskaskias village, five miles 
and a half The sides of some of these hills fronting the river 
are in many places perpendicular, and appear like solid pieces 

2 P 



29S VIEW OF THE 

of stone masonry of various colours, figures, and sizes. The 
low land between these hills and the river Mississippi is level; 
the soil rich, yielding shrubs and fragrant flowers, which, 
added to the number and extent of meadows and ponds inter- 
spersed through the valley, render it exceedingly beautiful and 
agreeable. The lands between the Illinois and Mississippi 
rivers are rich almost beyond parallel, covered with large oaks, 
walnut, &c. and not a stone is to be seen except upon the sides 
of the rivers. Above the Illinois lake, the land on both sides, 
to the distance of 27 or 30 miles, is generally low and full of 
swamps, some a mile wide, bordered with fine meadows ; and 
in some places the high land approaches the river in points or 
narrow necks. The alluvial soil of the rivers, the breadth of 
which is generally in proportion to their magnitude, varying 
from 300 or 400 yards to more than two miles, is so wonder- 
fully fertile, that it has produced fine crops without manure 
for more than a century. Beyond this, the dry meadow land 
without trees, rising from 30 to 100 feet above the former, 
stretches to the distance of from one to ten miles. The whole 
meadow ground of the Illinois river is supposed to contain an 
area of 1,200,000 acres. The north-western parts are hilly 
and broken, abounding in ponds and swamps, called wet prai- 
ries^ but well watered and wooded, and containing tracts of 
fertile soil. 

Copper ore is said to have been discovered on Mine river, 
which joins the Illinois, 120 miles from its mouth. Millstones 
Avere formerly made by the French, of a rock which forms a 
rapid in the Illinois river. Alum was found on a hill, near 
Mine river. Coal was observed extending half a mile along 
the high bank of the north-western side of the Illinois river. 
According to Hutchins, quarries of limestone, freestone, and 
marble, exist along the Mississippi, from between the Ohio and 
the Kaskaskia. White clay is found in the beds of the Illinois 
and Tortue. The? salt works, on the Saline river, (26 miles 
below the mouth of the Wabash,) furnish annually between 
200,000 aiid 300,000 bushels of salt, which is sold at the works, 
at from 50 to 75 cents per bushel. 



UNITED STATES. 299 

What was said of the climate of Indiana applies almost 
equally to Illinois. Winter is on the whole an agreeable sea- 
son. Extreme cold occurs only when the wind sets in from 
the north-west, the thermometer then falling to 7 or 8 deg. 
below zero; but when it shifts to any other quarter, mild 
Aveather and sunshine return, with the thermometer frequently 
above 50 deg. in the shade. 

Population. — In 18] the population was estimated at 
12,282 persons. In 1819 it was estimated at 30,000; the ra- 
tio of increase being 30 per cent, per annum. 

Toxons. — This being a newly settled territory, it contains no 
towns of any consequence. Sluixonoctoxvn, or Shcm'aiwtonm, 
where once stood a village of the Indians of this name, is situ- 
ated on the Ohio, below the Wabash, and was laid out at the 
expence of the United States. It was injured by an inunda- 
tion in the spring of 1813, which swept away the log-houses 
and drowned the cattle. The inhabitants escaped in boats. 
It now contains 30 or 40 families, who live in cabins formed 
of trees or logs, and subsist by the manufacture of salt. There 
are several other villages, wliich may soon become places of 
some importance. 

In the autumn of 1817, Mr. Birkbeck, an intelligent and 
enterprising English farmer, removed to this country, and set- 
tled in the south-east parts, between the Great and Little Wa- 
bash, at a spot to which he has given the name of English 
Prairie. In his ' Notes on America,' and ' Letters from Illi- 
nois,"' he has given a just and striking description of the face of 
the country, its soil, productions, mode of culture, and capaci- 
ties of improvement ; and he has pointed out the great advan- 
tages it offers to settlers, especially to labourers, and farmers 
of small capital. The extensive circulation of these works has 
attracted an extraordinary degree of attention to his settlement ; 
and the very favourable account he lias given of the country, 
with the confidence reposed by those who know him, and by 
those who have read his Notes, in his judgment and agricul- 
tural skill, have induced numbers to emigTate to the neigh- 
bourhood, both from England and the United States. It 



300 VIEW OF THE 

appears, from a variety of notices in the American journals^ 
that population is increasing in this quarter with great rapidity. 

Commerce. — Numbers of cattle are raised in the fertile soil 
called ' the Great American Bottom,' between the Kaskaskia 
and Illinois river, for the markets of Baltimore and Philadel- 
phia. Horses of the Spanish breed are also raised for sale. 

Government. — The government of tliis territory was esta- 
blished by acts of congress, dated 3d of February, 1809 ; and i 
congress passed an act on the 18th of February, 1818, author- 
izing the inhabitants of this territory to form a constitution 
and state government, and- to be admitted into the Union, on 
an equal footing with the original states. The convention to 
be chosen for this purpose, were to meet on the first Monday 
of August, 1818. Slavery is abolished by law, and by act of 
5th February, 1813. 

History. — The first settlements were made by the French 
at Kaskaskias, Kahokia, Fort Massac, and other places, which 
are still inhabited by their descendants, tliough the country 
was under the dominion of the British from the year 1756 to 
the treaty of peace with the United States. The Indians then 
inhabiting and claiming this territory were the Kaskaskias, the 
Sacks and Foxes, and the Piankashaws. In 1806, the first 
tribe ceded to the United States a tract of 12,000 square miles 
from the mouth of the Ohio to that of the Illinois, and 80 
miles in breadth from the Mississippi. Since this time several 
other secessions have taken place, until the state swelled to its 
present extent. 



UNITED STATES. 301 



MICHIGAN 

Situation and Exteni.WflCHlGAN, formerly Wayne coun- 
ty, was ex'ected into a teri'itory with 
a separate government in 1805, with the following limits: 
north, by the straits of Michillimakinac ; west, by lake Michi- 
gan ; south, by a line running from east to west, which sepa- 
rates it from the states of Ohio and Indiana ; east, by lakes 
Huron and St. Clair, to lake Erie. The southern line has not 
yet been accurately fixed. It is situated between 41 deg. 50 
niin. and 45 deg. 20 min. of north lat., and 5 deg. 12 min. and 
9 deg. west long, from Washington. It includes a surface of 
47,500 square miles, 30,400,000 acres. Its length from south 
to north is 250 miles, its breadth from east to west 160 miles. 
This territory forms a peninsula bounded on the north, east, 
and west sides by the great lakes Michigan and Huron. 

Natural Geography. — This territory is nearly environed by 
the great lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan, and a great num- 
ber of small pieces of water are interspersed throughout the 
interior parts. The total extent of navigable waters, including 
rivers, is 1789 miles. 

The surface has a gentle elevation from the western and 
northern borders towards the middle, which is generally level, 
and without hills or mountains. Extensive meadow lands 
stretch from the banks of the St. Joseph's to lake St. Clair, 
some of which, called ' high prairies/ are equal in quality to 
those of Indiana, and are of very different soil from the low 
prairies, which are sandy or marshy. Other parts are covered 
with extensive forests. The lands on Saganaum river are of a 
good quaUty ; meadow lands extend from its banks to the dis- 
tance of four or five miles. Thence to Fhnt river, fifteen 
miles, the country is level, the soil excellent, and covered with 
trees; thence to the Huron river the surface is waving, cover- 



302 VIEW OF THE 

ed with oak without underwood, and interspersed with lakes, 
resembhng the county of Cayuga in the state of New York. 
From Huron to Detroit the soil is rich, but low and marshy. 
The soil of the banks of the rivers St. Joseph's and Saganaum 
is of an excellent quahty. Along the straits of St. Clair there 
are fine meadows interspersed with rich wood lands. The 
banks of the Huron and Rouge rivers are also very fertile and 
well wooded. Those of Swan creek are low and unhealthy 
within a mile of the lake, beyond which there is high and good 
soil. That of the uplands of Rocky and Sandy creeks is poor 
and sandy. The alluvial soil of the rivers Raisin and Miami 
is excellent near their outlets ; but at some distance becomes 
light and sandy. Along a considerable part of the coast of 
lake Michigan are sandy eminences, formed near the mouths 
of the rivers by the action of their current operating against 
the swell of the lake. Along the western shore of lake Huron 
there is a narrow tract of poor soil, from half a mile to a mile 
in breadth. It is believed that this territory contains twenty 
millions of acres of excellent soil, of which eight millions have 
been ceded by the Indians to the United States, who have 
sold above 200,000 to different individuals. 

The banks of Rocky creek and other streams are calcareous. 
On two branches of the Saganaum river there are salt springs, 
which, it is believed, will be sufficient for the use of the terri- 
tory, and all the settlements on the upper lakes. 

The northern situation of this country would seem to indi- 
cate a considei'able degree of cold ; but it is found to be so 
modified by the waters of the lakes, that the winter is warmer 
than in some more southern latitudes. The season commences 
about the middle of November, and lasts till the middle of 
March ; and the ice on the rivers and borders of the lakes, 
during this period, is generally strong enough to support 
sledges. There is but little snow. Towards the state of In- 
diana, the cUmate resembles that of the western counties of 
New York and Pennsylvania; but along the coast of lake 
Huron, the winter commences two weeks eai'lier than at De- 
troit. Lake St. Clair is frozen over every year from Decem- 
ber to February. According to the observations of generiii 



UNITED STATES. 303 

Wilkinson, made in 1797, the thermometer between St. Clair 
and Michillimackinac never rose higher at noon than 70 deg., 
and in the morning and evening it often sunk to 46 deg. 

Population. — The population of this territory, which is 
chiefly of French origin, has not increased so rapidly as might 
have been expected from its salubrity and advantageous com- 
mercial situation. In 1800 there were about 3000 inhabitants ; 
in 1810 the number did not amount to 5000. In 1816 it was 
estimated at 12,000, exclusive of Indians. 

Chief Towns. — Detroit, situated on the western side of the 
strait, eighteen miles above Maldon, and six below the outlet 
of lake St. Clair, contains more than 300 buildings. About 
half the population is of French origin, the rest from different 
parts of Europe and the United States. It was originally de- 
fended by a strong stockade, which was burnt down in 1806. 
Several wooden quays, or wharfs, project into the river. That 
of the United States is 140 feet long, and the water is deep 
enough for a vessel of 400 tons burthen. The public build- 
ings consist of a council-house, prison, and store. The last is 
of three stories, 80 feet in length, and 30 feet wide. Another 
store is now building. The present Roman catholic chapel is 
to be replaced by a new one of a large size. A college is to 
be established here, and the building has already commenced. 
There is a printing office, and formerly a newspaper, called 
the ' Michigan Essay,' was issued from Utica, but it has been 
discontinued for want of encouragement. 

Manufactures and Commerce. — The manufactures of this 
territory, in 1810, amounted to 37,018 dollars ; but their pro- 
gress was checked during the war by the ravages of the In- 
dians. Sides of leather, 2720 ; saddles, 60 ; hats, 600 ; whis- 
key, 19,400 gallons; brandy, 1000; soap, 37,000 pounds; 
candles, 6500; woollen cloth, 2405 yards; flax stuffs, 1195; 
hemp mixed, 20. 

From Detroit the exports in 1810 amounted to 3615 dollars. 
In 1817 the exports in cyder, apples, and fish, amounted to 
60,000 dollars. Detroit and Michillimackinac are ports of 
entry. The imports are from the state of Ohio, and consist of 
beef, pork, cheese, butter, and whiskey. 



304 VIEW OF THE 

History. — This country, when first discovered by the whites, 
was occupied by the Hurons, many of whom, about the year 
1648, were converted to Christianity by the Jesuit missiona- 
ries, who erected a chapel at the falls of St. Mary, and another 
on the island of St. Joseph. About the year 1670, the Efu- 
rons were defeated and dispersed by their implacable enemies, 
known by the name of Six Nations ; and at the close of the 
American war, this territory was occupied by different tribes, 
whose warriors amounted to 3500. In 1663 Louis XIV. sent 
a small number of troops to this territory to protect the trade 
in furs, and some years afterwards a fort was built at Detroit, 
and another at Michillimackinac, by which means the traders 
were enabled, notwithstanding the opposition of the Iroquois, 
to extend this commerce to the borders of the Mississippi ; but 
these advantages were lost by the war of 1756, which deprived 
the French of all their North American possessions ; and this 
territory falling into the hands of the English, was ceded to 
the United States by the peace of 1783, and was placed under 
the protection of a governor, with temporary regulations ex- 
tending to all the country north-west of the Ohio. The Eng- 
lish fort of Detroit was also ceded in 1796, and the peninsula 
received the name of Wayne county. In 1805, a distinct, 
government was establislied under its present name. 



MISSOURI TERRITORY. 

Situation and Extent. 'THE Missouri territory extends from 

the Mississippi on the east, to the 
Rocky mountains on the west, and from the gulf of Mexico on 
the south, to Canada on the north. It lies between 29 and 
49 deg. of north lat., and \% deg. 50 min. and 32 deg. of west 
long, from Washington. Its length, from south to north, is 



UNITED STATES. 305 

about 1400 miles, and its breadth, from east to west, 88G 
miles ; containing an area of about 985,250 square miles, or 
630,560,000 acres. 

Natural Geography. — The country upon the north side of 
the Missouri river consists of fine rich meadows, or hills 
covered with a tolerable good soil, and thinly wooded. For 
the distance of 200 or 300 miles, from the river Mississippi to 
the base of the Rocky mountains, the whole country is one 
continued prairie, or level surface, except along the rivers, the 
alluvial soil of which is considerably lower than the surround- 
ing country, and the breadth in proportion to the magnitude 
of the river. The Missouri river is generally from 150 to 300 
feet below the level otthe surface. 

The country south of the Missouri, and along the Missis- 
sippi, from the mouth of the Arkansas to the head of Ti- 
wappaty Bottom about the mouth of the Ohio, a distance of 
nearly 450 miles, is low and level. The high grounds 
commence about twelve miles below cape Girardeau, from 
which a chain of hills stretches across the country to the St. 
Francis, dividing the lower from the upper country The low 
lands are generally well wooded, the high grounds very thinly, 
and scarcely a shrub is seen on the natural meadows. On the 
northern bank of the Osage river there is an extensive tract of 
rich alluvial soil ; that on the ojDposite side is inferior, but it 
opens into a fine fertile plain, which is seen to great advantage 
from the summit of some high mounds or insulated hills near 
the Indian village. ' From this eminence,' says Mr. Brown, a 
surveyor, ' I am persuaded that, turning round, I could sur- 
vey 500 square miles, and nearly all of the first quality ; tim- 
ber and springs only are wanting to make this the finest part 
of the world I have yet seen.' From this point towards the 
woody country, a distance of 130 miles, the land becomes 
gradually less fertile to the streams of the Grand river of the 
Arkansas, which runs in a western direction. But, upon the 
whole, this immense tract of country is wild and uninviting. 

Lead ore is very abundant in this country ; it is said to ex- 
tend through a surface 600 miles in length, and 200 in breadth, 
from St. Genevieve to the mines of the Sack and Fox Indians, 

2 Q 



^06 VIEW OF THE 

on tlie Mississippi. Iron ore on the rivers St. Francis, Mara- 
mek, and Osage, and in the country watered by White river. 
Above Cedar island, 1075 miles from the mouth of the Mis- 
souri, where the alluvial soil terminates, the brown iron ore 
appears on the surface, and prevents vegetation. Copper, a 
short distance below the falls of St. Anthony. Zinc. — The 
blend ore of this metal is found in the pits ft)rmed for working 
the lead mines. Pyrites are found on the borders of the Wa- 
shita river. Spar crystallized in caves and subterraneous 
places from the river Missouri to that of the St. Francis. 
Limestone abounds in the elevated country. Coal, a large 
body near the mouth of the Missouri, and at the foot of the 
bluffs on the Osage river ; and, according to hunters, on the 
Little Missouri and Yellov/ Stone rivers. Alum, nitre, salt- 
petre, ochres, salt, &c. is found in various parts. 

Deer and wild horses are numerous in this country, and 
ti'avellers say that flocks of buffaloes, from 40,000 to 50,000, 
are seen together. The soil is well adapted for the growth of 
wheat and maize. Hemp is indigenous, and grows to the 
height of eleven feet. About 1500 weight may be obtained 
from an acre. 

The climate of the parts of this territory already settled, si- 
tuated between the 33d and 40th degrees of north lat., is Sub- 
ject to extremes of heat and cold, similar to those which are 
experienced in the Atlantic states ; but they are here of much 
shorter duration, and the general temperature is mild and 
agreeable. The changes are not so sudden as in the eastern 
states, and the north-west wind, which brings a chilling cold, 
seldom continues more than eight hours. Spring opens with 
heavy rains, which are frequent till the 1st of May, when they 
cease till the 1st of August; and, during this period, the wea- 
ther is warm, with frequent thunder and lightning. 

Population. — The population of this territory in 1817 was 
estimated at 68,794, including slaves and civilized Indians. 

Chief Towns. — The town o^ St. Louis, situated in 38 deg. 
89 niin. north lat., and 12 deg. 51 min. west from Washing- 
ton, extends two miles along the western side of the Mississip- 
pi, at tlie distance of 14 miles below the mouth of the Missouri, 



UNITED STATES. 307 

and 18 above that of the Maramek, and about 13r50 above 
New Orleans. It was founded in 1764. There are three 
streets parallel with the river. Most of the houses are built 
of limestone, with a garden or park inclosed with a stone wall. 
In 1816, the population of the town of St. Louis was about 
2000. The number of dwelling-houses in March, 1817, was 
from 350 to 400. Some of the lands near St. Louis are ex- 
tremely fertile. 

Herculaneiim, a village of 200 inhabitants, established by 
colonel Hammond and major Austin, is situated on the borders 
of the jMississippi river, at about an equal distance from St. 
Louis and St. Genevieve, at the mouth of the Joachim river. 
Boats are built here ; there are several mills in the vicinity ; 
and a patent shot factory has been lately established by Mr. 
Matlock, on the edge of a rock, where there is a fall for the 
shot of 200 feet perpendicular. 

The village of St. Genevieve, situated about three miles 
above the mouth of Gabane creek, in lat. 57 deg. 51 min., 
contained, in 1816, 850 houses, an academy, eight or ten 
stores, and it had a road leading to the lead mines. The an- 
nual imports were then estimated at 150,000 dollars. A 
tract, extending five miles along the bank of the river, and 
containing 7000 acres, is owned by the inhabitants in common, 
and called the ' Common Field.'' 

On Big river, which traverses the tract where the lead mines 
are wrought, there are several compact settlements, of which 
the largest is Bellevuc, situated at the distance of 50 miles 
west of the town of St. Genevieve. Other small establishments 
extend 50 miles up the Maramek, and to the waters of the St. 
Francis. Farm-houses are established on the navigable streams 
of this district ; the la Vase, Saline, and Apple creek. Lead 
and salt are the chief articles of export. The annual produce 
of the former is estimated at 1,525,000/. 

The village of Si. Charles, on the borders of the Missouri, 
about 24 miles from its mouth, and 25 from St. Louis by 
land, contains about 1000 inhabitants. The houses extend a 
mile along the river, under a hill, which prevents an extension 
«f the town in an opposite direction. This establishment was 



308 VIEW OF THE 

founded in 1780, by Creoles and Canadians. It is the resi- 
dence of a numerous class of watermen, called engagees. 

The prosperity of Next) Madrid^ situated on the west bank 
of the Mississippi, in 36^ deg. north lat., was impeded in 1811 
by an earthquake. There are several other settlements and 
villages in this territory, which do not merit a particular de- 
scription. 

Commerce. — Peltry is the principal article of trade in this 
district. The annual average quantity of this article, from the 
year 1789 to 1804, a period of fifteen years, was as follows : 
Castors, 36,900 lbs., valued at 66,820 dollars. Otters, 8000 
—37,100. Bear skins, 5100—14,200. Buffalo skins, 850— 
4750. Racoon, wild cat, and fox skins, 28,200—12,280. 
Martins, 1300—3900. Lynx, 300—1500. Deer skins, 
158,000—63,200. Total, 203,750. The average yearly va- 
lue of the goods sent up the Missouri river, during the same 
period, was 61,250 dollars, which yielded an annual profit of 
27 per cent. 

Government. — The act of the congress of the United States, 
providhig for the government of this territory, was passed in 
June, 1812. The executive power is vested in a governor, 
appointed by the president and senate of the United States. 
for the term of three years. This magistrate is commander- 
in-chief of the ^nilitia, superintendent of Indian affairs, and is 
invested with power to appoint and commission all public offi- 
cers, not otherwise provided for by law; to grant pardon for 
offences against the territory, and reprieves for those against 
the United States; and to convene the assembly on extraordi- 
nary offences. Delegates to congress are to be elected by the 
citizens at the time of electing their representatives to the ge- 
neral assembly, to have the same powers, privileges, and com- 
periusation, as are granted to delegates of other territories. 



UNITED STATES. 309 



NORTH-WEST TERRITORY. 

Situation and Extent. nHHIS territory is bounded on the 

north by lake Superior, and the 
■water communication between this lake and the Woods, and 
from the north-west corner of the lake of the Woods by a 
direct line to Red river, which it strikes a little below the 
junction of the Assiniboin ; on the south by the Illinois terri- 
tory, from which it is separated by the parallel of 42 deg. 30 
min. ; on the east by lake Michigan and the channel between 
lake Huron and lake Superior ; and on the west by the Mis- 
sissippi river to its sources, and thence by the waters of the 
Red river to the junction of the Assiniboin, which separates it 
from the Missouri territory. It is situated between 42 deg. 
30 min. and 49 deg. 37 min. of north lat., and between 7 deg. 
and 20 deg. west lono['. from Washinelon. Its breadth, at the 

Of? O ^ 

latitude of 46 deg., from east to west, is 480 miles. Its length 
is very unequal. Area, about 147,000 square miles, or 
94,080,000 acres. 

Natural Geogra'pluj. — It is difficult to imagine a finer situa- 
tion, with regard to water communication, than that of the 
North-west territory. Lake Superior, on the north, is con- 
nected with lake Michigan on the east, and with a chain of 
small lakes, extending to the lake of the Woods. The Mis- 
sissippi extends along the western side ; and beyond its sources 
is Red river of lake Winnipig, running in an opposite direc- 
tion. The interior is intersected by numerous rivers, flowing 
in different directions, from sources near each other, into lakes 
Superior and Michigan, and the river Mississippi, and admit- 
ting of an easy communication, by means of short canals. The 
upper parts are studded with small lakes. 

Fox river, a branch of the Iliinois, which rises in the south- 
eastern parts, is navigable 330 miles. jChicago river is an arm 



310 VIEW OF THE 

of lake Michigan, at the distance of a mile from which it di- 
vides into two branches, both of which, as well as the main 
channel, are from 15 to 50 yards wide, and have water suffi- 
cient for the passage of large vessels, except on the b^r at the 
entrance. Green bay, the northern extremity of which is 
called Noquet's bay, is an arm or branch of lake Michigan, 
running parallel with it, 1^0 miles: the interjacent land is 
from 20 to 40 miles broad. The breadth of Green bay varies 
from six to 30 miles. This bay has water sufficient for vessels 
of 200 tons burden, and affords an easy and safe navigation. 
Fox river, (called sometimes Outagamy,) which it receives at 
the south-western extremity, is 400 yards wide at its entrance, 
with three fathoms water, and is navigable 160 miles to Win- 
nebago lake, through which this river passes to its outlet in 
Green bay. The river St. Louis, which falls into West bay, 
at the bottom of the lake, rises near some of the eastern ex- 
treme branches of the Mississi})pi, and is navigable 150 miles 
from its mouth, near which, and towards its source, the North- 
west company have established several trading houses. 

The Red, Swan, Muddy, and a number of other rivers, in- 
tersect this country in every direction. The Ouisconsin takes 
its rise about the 45th degree of latitude, near the source of 
the Montreal river of lake Superior, and north of that of the 
Fox river, with which it runs in a southern direction, separated 
by a high ridge to near the Carrying place, where it takes a 
south-western direction, to its junction with the Mississippi, in 
lat. 43 deg. 23 min,, a distance, in following its course, of 240 
miles. It is more than 100 yards wide at the Carrying place, 
and about half a mile near its outlet; and, throughout all 
this distance, it 'flows with a smooth, but strong current." 
When the water is low, the navigation is impeded in some 
places by bars of sand. The traders of Michilliniackinac send 
their Poods throush the channel of the Fox and Ouisconsin 
rivers to the IMississippi. The southern parts of this territory 
are watered by Rock river, whicli is said to rise near Green 
bay of lake Michigan, and run a course of 450 miles, for 300 
of which it is navigable. Numerous lakes are interspersed 
throughout the interior of this territory, which are generally 



UNITED STATES. 311 

the sources of the principal rivers. The whole extent of na- 
vigable waters exceeds 8100 miles. 

This territory, stretching across 13 degrees of longitude and 
7 of latitude, encircled and intersected by lakes and large ri- 
vers, lias a great variety of soil. Near the north-western parts 
must be the most elevated point of land between the Atlantic 
coast, the gulf of Mexico, and Hudson's bay ; for here, within 
30 miles of each other, the St. Lawrence, Red, and Mississippi 
rivers have their sources, from which they flow to those seas 
in an eastern, northern, and southern direction respectively, 
each traversing a space of more than 2000 miles. Carver de- 
scribes ' the land on the south-east side of Green bay of lake 
Michigan as but very indifferent, being overspread with a 
heavy growth of hemlock, pine, spruce, and fir trees ; but ad- 
joining to the bottom of the bay, it is very fertile, the country 
in general level, and affording many fine and extensive views.* 
On the western side of the territory, below the falls of St. An- 
thony, the high lands and prairies have the appearance of a 
tolerably good soil ; but above this parallel, Pike has remark- 
ed, that it gradually becomes poorer. Two-thirds of the ad- 
jacent country between the river Des Cor beaux, or parallel of 
45 deg. 50 min,, and Pine river, is so covered with small lakes, 
that it is impassable except in bark canoes. Along the water 
courses are clumps of oak, ash, maple, and lynn ; and num- 
bers of elk deer and buffalo are seen. From Leech lake to 
the sources of the Mississippi river, the whole face of the 
country is described by Pike ' as an impenetrable morass, or 
boundless savannah.' The highest mountains are those south 
of the CaiTying place, between the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers, 
which Carver ascended, and ' had an extensive view of the 
country. For many nules nothing was to be seen but sepa- 
rate hills, which appeared at a distance like hay cocks, being 
without trees. Grroves of hickory and stunted oaks covered 
some of the vallies.' 

Silver ore has been found on the south side of lake Superior. 
The lead miiies of Dubuque (the name of the proprietor) ex- 
tend from within a few miles of the Mississippi, to the distance 
of 27 or 28 leagues between the Ouisconsin and Rocky 



312 VIEW OF THE 

branches, occupying a breadth of from one to three milesr. 
The annual produce of metal is from 20,000 to 30,000 pounds. 
Copper ore and native copper seem to abound on the southern 
coast of lake Superior, and on the banks of some of its tri- 
butary streams. 

The elevation and northerly situation of a great portion of 
this territory indicate a considerable degree of cold, whichj 
however, is modified by the great masses of water of lakes Su- 
perior and Michigan. Carver was struck with the luxuriant 
growth of the wild rice, which is not seen to the east of lake 
Erie, and scarcely ripens near its waters. On leaving Michil- 
limackinac, in the spring season, though the trees there have 
not even put forth their buds, yet you arrive here in 14 days, 
and find the country around the bay covered with the finest 
verdure. According to the same traveller, the north-west 
wind, which brings intense cold to the New England states, is 
much less severe in this country. 

Population. — The number of white inhabitants of this terri- 
tory is yet inconsiderable, but no enumeration was made in 
1810, and we have not been able to procure satisfactory in- 
formation on the subject. A tract of about 8,000,000 of acres 
of this territory is claimed by the heirs of the late captain Jo- 
nathan Carver, in virtue of a deed in their possession, granted 
and signed by two of the chiefs of the Naudowessie Indians, 
the 1st of May, 1767. 

Manners^ <§*c. — The people belonging to the colony on 
Green bay are extremely polite and courteous, strictly pre- 
serving the manners of their forefathers, the French. The 
women, nine-tenths of whom are of Indian origin, are modest 
in their manners. Their costume is grotesque, wearing print- 
ed calico short gowns, petticoats of strouds, and mocassins. 
The men, with few exceptions, have partly adopted the man- 
ners of the Indians. Their dress is that worn by the French 
people of Detroit. At the carrying place, between the Fox 
and Ouisconsin rivers, 350 miles east of the falls of St. An- 
thony, two or three familes of French origin are established, 
who charge the extravagant sum of -iO cents per cwt. for the 
transportation of goods; for a canoe, five dollars; a boat. 



UNITED STATES. 313 

three. It is said that the United States propose to establish a 
miUtary post here. 

Towns. — Here are no towns of any consequence. The 
Prairie des Chiens, or Dog meadow establishment,, on the east 
bank of the Ouisconsin, and about a mile from its outlet, con- 
sists of 60 houses, or about 400 inhabitants, who are chiefly 
of French origin, with a mixture of In iian blood. These 
houses form a village of two streets, though some of them are 
scattered along the surface, to the distance of four or five miles. 
In spring and autumn this is a place of resort for the white 
traders and Indians, whose numbei* is sometimes equal to that 
of the inhabitants. 



THE COUNTRY 

BETWEEfJj 

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 

AND THE 

PACIFIC OCEAN. 

'pHESE vast regions will, soon be settled by the enterprising 
and restless inhabitants of the United States. Already 
has a settlement been formed at the mouth of the Columbia, 
where it joins the Pacific ocean, and which promises to become 
a place of great importance. The area of this country is esti- 
mated at 224,000 square miles. 

The Rocky mountains were so named by the hunters, on 
account of their steep and rugged appearairce. They form a 
part of the great chain which extends from the straits of Ma- 
gellan, nearly to the polar circle. The American exploring 
14 2 R 



;U4 VIEW OF THE 

party not having a barometer, were unable to ascertain their 
heights ; but the perpetual snow on their summits indicates an 
elevation of 8000 or 9000 feet. 

Another great chain of mountains, nearly parallel to the 
former, and distant from them about 80 leagues, stretches 
across the country, near the coast. The most elevated parts 
of this chain, Mount Jefferson and Mount Hood, between the 
44th and 45th parallels, are also covered with perpetual snow. 
These mountains, which have been seen by all the navigators 
who have visited this coast, extend more than 3000 miles from 
Cook's Entry to California. Between these two great ridges 
runs another less elevated range, in a south-west direction, 
towards the 45th deg. of north lat , where it terminates in a 
level plain. Another stretches, in a north-western direction, 
across the Columbia river, towards the great chain which runs 
parallel to the coast. Between the Rocky .mountains and 
those near the sea, the country is a wide and extensive plain, 
without woods, except along the narrow elevated borders of 
the water courses. Towards the 46th parallel, this tract ex- 
tends nearly 400 miles from east to west ; near the 53d paral- 
lel, where it was obseived by Mackenzie, it is contracted to 
200 miles ; and hei'e the uneven surface and woods commence. 

Columbia river, which traverses the country situate between 
the two great chains of mountains, runs first in a north-west, 
and afterwards southern direction, to the 46th deg. of lat., 
where it takes a westerly course to the Pacific ocean, into 
which it discharges its waters, a little above the 46th deg. of 
lat. The great tributary streams of the Columbia are Clarke's, 
Lewis, and the Multnomah rivers. The Columbia, receiving- 
its waters through these different channels, and from very re- 
mote sources, is of considerable magnitude, several hundred 
miles from its mouth. At tlie junction of Lewis river, which 
is nearly 400 miles from the sea, in lat. 46 deg. 15 niin., its 
width is 960 vards ; and farther down it is from one to three 
miles, embracing a number of islands, some of which are of 
considerable extent. Above the rntnith of Lewis river thcr« 
are remarkable falls, where the descent, in 1200 yards, is 3T 
feet 8 indies, and the rapids extend from three to four miles^ 



UNITED STATES. 615 

In this descent the whole mass of waters passes through a 
channel of black rock, half a mile long, and not more than 45 
yards in width. Beyond the limits of the tide the waters were 
12 feet higher in spring than in November. The Columbia, 
like the Missouri river, has, in some places, washed away its 
banks, and formed new channels ; and this, perhaps, accounts 
for the remarkable fact noticed by Lewis and Clarke, that near 
the Kieshowee river the trunks of large pines are found stand- 
ing upright in tlit bed of the river, rooted in the soil at the 
bottom, though the waters were 30 feet in depth at the time, 
(the middle of April,) and are in no season less than 10. Near 
Lewis river the waters of the Columbia are so clear, that tlie 
salmon are seen at the depth of from 15 to 20 feet. 

The other rivers which discharge their waters into the Pa- 
cific ocean in the adjacent country south of the Columbia, are 
the Clatsop, Chinnook, and Killamuck. The last, which is 
100 yards wide, is rapid, but navigable its whole length, and 
serves as the great channel of trade. 

On the west side of the Rocky mountains, the country, for 
several hundred miles in length, and about 50 in breadth, is a 
high level plain, thinly interspersed with groves of the long- 
leaved pine. In descending, the soil gradually becomes more 
fertile, and, in many parts, is of an excellent quality. The 
soil, in general, throughout this country is very good. The 
Columbian valley, watered by the river, is shaded with groves 
of trees. The temperature is mild, and the soil so fertile, that 
it is supposed to be capable of giving sul)sistence to 40,000 or 
50,000 persons. The atljacent highlands are also fertile, 
having a dark rich loamy soil, and susceptible of cultivation. 
One great advantage is the wood, which is sufficiently abun- 
dant to supply the wants of a considerable population. 

The shore of the Pacilic is low and open, with a grassy sur- 
face; but -the inner side of the ridge of mountains which runs 
parallel therewith, is covered with thick timber 

The climate of this region is mikirr than in the san)e pai'al- 
lel of the Atlantic states. 

The length ol' the route by which Lewis and (^larke travel- 
•cd to the Pacific ocean was 41;/4' miles: but on their retiuii. 



316 VIEW OF THP: 

in 1806', they came from Travellers' Rest creek directly to the 
falls of the Missouri river, which shortens the distance from 
the Mississippi to the Pacific ocean to 3555 miles. Two thou- 
sand five hundred and seventy-five miles of this distance is up 
the Missouri to the falls of that river ; thence passing through 
the plains, and across the Rocky mountains, to the navigable 
waters of the Kooskooskee river, a branch of the Columbia, is 
340 miles. Two hundred miles of this distance is a good road ; 
140 miles over a mountain, steep and broken, 60 miles of 
which was covered several feet deep v.'ith snow, at the end of 
June. From the navigable part of the Kooskooskee, they de- 
scended that rapid river 73 miles, to its entrance into Lewis 
river, passed down that river 154 miles, to the Columbia, and 
which conducted them to the Pacific ocean, at the distance of 
413 miles. The tide-water met them in the Columbia, 180 
miles from the sea. The total distance descending the Co- 
lumbia waters was 640 miles, making a total of 3555 miles, on 
the most direct route from the mouth of the Missouri to the 
Pacific ocean. , 



COLUMBIA TEERITOKY 



Situation and Extent. HpHE territory of Columbia, which 

formed a part of the states of Vir- 
ginia and Maryland, became the permanent seat of govern- 
ment in the year 1801. This territory, extending on both 
sides of the Patomak, contains a surface of ten miles square, 
of which the diagonals are north and south, and east and west. 
The south angle is at Fort Columbia, situated at Jones's 
point, at the mouth of Hunting creek, on the left bank of the 
Patomak. 



UNITED STATES. 317 

Natural Geography. — The Patomak, which has already 
been described, traverses the territory of Columbia. From 
Washington to its mouth, in the Chesapeake bay, it is navi- 
gable for the largest frigate, a distance, in following its course, 
of about 200 miles. The tide water flows to the distance of 
three miles beyond Washington city, where the common tide 
rises to the height of four feet. By a survey of the Patomak, 
made in 1789, it was ascertained, that at the distance of 15. 
miles above the city of Washington, this river is 143 feet 
higher than at tide water ; that from the mouth of Savage ri- 
ver, near the- western limits of Maryland, to Fort Cumber- 
land, a distance of 31 miles, the descent is 445 feet, or 14i per 
mile ; and from Fort Cumberland to tide water, a distance 
of 187 miles, the descent is 715 feet, or 3-82 per mile. By a 
survey, made in 1806, at the expence of the Patomak com- 
pany, it was ascertained, that the Shenandoah river, from 
its mouth to Port Republic, has nearly the same breadth du- 
ring all this distance of 200 miles, in which the descent is but 
435 feet. 

The Patomak company, by whom the navigation of the 
river has been opened, was incorpoiated for this purpose, by 
acts of the states of Maryland and Virginia, passed in the year 
1784, which authorised the fimd to be disti-ibuted in shares, 
and raised by subscription. The original capital, or stock, 
consisted of 701 shares, which at 444| dollars, the value of 
each, amounted to 311,560 dollars. In 1807, the expences of 
the improvement of the Patomak amounted to 375,648 dollars ; 
of the Shenandoah, to 65,000 ; and of the Coneo-ocheaffue 
creek, to 500 dollars. T"he annual i-epairs, when the work 
shall have been completed, have been estimated at 20,000 
dollars. 

In a national point of view, this work will be of great ad- 
vantage in accelerating the progress of agriculture, arts, and 
manufactures, diminishing the price of carriage, and facilitat- 
ing the exchange of the producti<ms and commodities of the 
countries watei'ed by thbse rivers. The treasures of vast 
mountainous and woody tracts, hitlierto unknown from the 
;lifficulty of communication, will be rendered accessible and 



318 VIEW OF THE 

inviting to every speculation, whether of a scientific or com- 
mercial nature. 

The distance from Washington to the Upper or Matilda 
falls of the Patomak on the Virginia side, is about 14 miles. 
The perpendicular descent of the falls is 76 feet, but the rapids 
extend for several miles up the river. The scene is wild and 
magnificent. The romantic scenery of the Great falls, 59 
■ miles from Washington, is seen most to advantage from the 
Virginia side, and is scarcely to be equalled. There is a stu- 
pendous projecting rock covered with cedar, where one may 
sit and gaze at the waters dashing with im})etuosity over the 
rugged surface. At the close of winter, vast masses of ice, 
rolling over the rocks with a hideous crashing noise, present a 
scene truly sublime. 

The surface of the district of Washington is beautifully ir- 
regular and diversified ; in some parts level, in others undu- 
lating or hilly, and intersected by deep vallies. The soil is so 
various, that it is not easy to give an exact idea of its composi- 
tion. On the level banks of the Patomak there is a deep 
alluvion formed by the depositions of this river, and containing 
fragments of primitive mountains, pyrites, gravel and sand, 
shells, and the remains of vegetable substances. The stone 
with which the basons of the Patomak canal are lined is a spe- 
cies of sandstone, similar to what is found in coal beds. The 
rock employed to for)n the foundation, or base, of the houses 
of Washington, is a species of gneiss, composed of felspar, 
quartz, and mica, of a leafy textiu'e, owing to the abundance 
and disposition of the mica. 

The fishes which inliabit tlie river Patomak, at and near 
Washington, are sturgeon, rock-fish, shad, gar, eel, carp, her- 
ring, pike, perch, mullet, smelt. In a distance of about 100 
miles above and below Washington, 4{)(>,n()(J barrels of her- 
rings are caught annually, of which a considerable quantity 
are cured and exported. They are salted without being gut- 
ted, and the blood mixes with the brine, which in a few days 
is poured off, when tlie herrings are tiiken out, washed, and 
salted anew. The fisheries continue during the montli of 
April. Tn 1768 an act was passed by the legislature, which, 




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UNITED STATES. 319 

in 1798, became a permanent law, to prevent the destruction 
of voung fish by wears or dams. 

It is a prevailing opinion throughout the United States, that 
the climate t)f the district of Washington is unhealthy; but 
this opinion is not formed on good grounds, for it is certain, 
that in no season is it visited by habitual or endemical disease. 
The best proof of the salubrity of a place is the longevity of 
its inhabitants. During autumn bilious fever sometimes pre- 
vails ; but, at this season, it is common to other parts of the 
United States. In winter chronical diseases often occur, occa- 
sioned by the sudden changes of weather, which check perspi- 
ration ; but these are not confined to this city. In July the 
heat is often oppressive ; but it is believed, on good grounds, 
tliat the climate has been improved by the clearing of the 
country, and that the extremes both of heat and cold are now 
less violent than formerly. During the last ten years, the 
average depth of the snow has not exceeded eight or ten 
inches, though it was much greater in the memory of persons 
still living. 

Population. — The population of the territory of Columbia 
in 1800 was 14,093; in 1810 it amounted to S4,023; that of 
the city was 8208 ; of Georgetown, 4948 ; of Alexandria, 
7227; of Washington county, exclusive of towns, 2135 ; that 
of Alexandria county, 1325. In 1817 Georgetown and 
Washington were supposed to contain 20.000 inhabitants, 
and the whole district 30,000. 

City of Washington. 

The city of Washington is situated on the Patomak, at the 
t'onfluence of this river with its eastern branch, which formerly 
bore the name of Annakostia, in lat. 38 deg. 55 min. north, 
and in long. 76 deg. 53 min. from Greenwich. 

From \^'ashington to Philadelphia the distance is 144 miles. 
To Baltimore, _ _ . . _ 43 

To Richmond, 132 

To Annapolis, , - » _ - 40 



Sm VIEW OF THE 

The meridional line which passes through the capitol was 
drawn by Mr. Ellicot. The longitude was calculated by Mr. 
Lambert. 

It is scarcely possible to imagine a situation more beautiful, 
healthy, and convenient, than that of Washington. The gen- 
tly undulating surface produces a pleasing and varied effect. 
The rising hills on each side of the Patbmak are truly pic- 
turesque; the river is seen broken and interrupted by the 
sinuosities of its course, and the sails of large vessels gliding 
through the majestic trees which adorn its banks, give addi- 
tional beauty to tlie scenery. 

The site of the city extends from north-west to south-east 
about four miles and a half, and from north-east to south-west 
about two miles and a half. The houses are thinly scattered 
over this space ; the greatest number are in the Pennsylvania 
avenue between the capitol and the president's house, from the 
latter towards Georgetown, and near the barracks and navy- 
yard on the eastern branch. ^ The public buildings occupy the 
most elevated and convenient situations, to which the waters 
of the Tiber creek may be easily conducted, as well as to every 
other part of the city not already watered by springs. The 
streets run from north to south, and from east to west, cross- 
ing each other at right angles, with the exception of fifteen, 
named after the different states, and which run in. an angular 
direction. The Pennsylvania street, or avenue, which stretches 
in a direct line from the president's house to the capital, is a 
mile in length, and 160 feet in brea(Jth ; the breadth of the 
narrowest streets is from 90 to 100 feet, * 

The plan of this city, of which we have given an engraving, 
is universally admired. The most eligible places have been 
sel^ted for public squares and public building. The capitol 
is situated on a rising ground, which is elevated about 80 feet 
above the tide water of the Patomak, and 60 or 70 above the 
intermediate surface. This edifice will present a front of 650 
feet, with a colonnade of 260 feet, and 16 Corinthian columns 
314 feet in height. The elevation of the dome is 150 feet; 
the basement story 20 ; the entablement 7 ; the parapet 6^ : 
the centre of the building, from the east to the west portico, is 



UNITED STATES. 321 

240 feel. The ceiling is vaulteci, and the whole edifice is to 
be of solid masonry of hewn stone, wliich, in appearance, re- 
sembles that known by the name of the Portland stone. The 
centre, or great body of the building, is not yet commenced, 
but the two wings are nearly finished. The north wing, ■ 
which contains the senate chamber, has the form of a segment, 
with a double-arched dome, and Tonic pillars. It* is adorned 
with portraits of Louis XVI. and Mary Antoinette. Under 
the senate chamber are commodious rooms for the library, and 
the judiciary courts of the United Stales. The south wing, 
cc.itaining the hall of representatives, and rooms for transact- 
ing business by committees, is of a circular form, adorned witl) 
24 Corinthian pillars, behind which are galleries and lobbies 
for the accommodation of those who listen to the debates. 

The foundation wa* laid in 1794, the north wing was finish- 
ed in 1801, the south wing in 1807. The interior was origi- 
nally of wood, which soon decayed ; and to substitute stone, it 
became necessary to change the whole arrangement. This 
magnificent edifice is the j'>int composition of several artists ; 
Thornton, Latrobe, Hallct, and Hatfield. .» 

The post-office is a large brick building, situated at about 
equal distances from the president's house and the capitol. 
Under the same roof is the patent-office, and also the national 
librarv, for the use of members of conoress. In the first of 
these departments are upwards of 900 specimens of native me- 
chanical genius. This would appear to afford decisive proof, 
that Americans are not deficient in inventive talent. The 
library is small, consisting of but 3000 volumes; but it is se- 
lect and well chosen, and includes various classes of literature, 
having been the property of Mr. Jefferson, for which he ob- 
tained from the United States 20,000 dollars. The former 
library, containing from 7 to 8000, \vas deslroved by our en- 
Ughtened country inen. So great has been, at some periods, 
the depreciation of pn)perty in this city, that in 1802, what 
had originally cost 200,000 dollars, was sold for 25,000. This 
decav continued to go on, until the visit of general Ross, and 
the subsequent signature of peace : since that time it seems to 
have risen, like the phoenix from the flames, and is once more 

2 S 



322 VIEW OF THE 

partially increasing in prosperity. There are now a number 
of two and three story brick buildings, none of which are un- 
inhabited; and also some small wooden houses, tliough, ac- 
cording to the original plan, none were to be built less than 
three stories high, and all to have marble steps. But the 
childish folly of this scheme was soon subverted by the natural 
course of events ; and though the existence of ' loxcer orders^ 
even in the capital of the republic, may not accord with the 
vanity of its legislators, they ought to be told, that neither 
prosperity nor population can be possessed by any nation witli- 
out a due admixture of the natural classes of society. 

The president's house consists of two stories, and is 170 
feet in length, and 85 in breadth. It resembles Leinster- 
house, in Dublin, and is much admired. Even the poet 
Moore styles it a ' grand edifice,'' a ' noble structure.' The 
view from the windows fronting the river is extremely beautiful. 

One of the objects embraced by the original plan was the 
establishment of a university, on an extensive scale, for the 
whole Union. A communication ^vas made on this subject by 
the president to the congress in 1817. 

The public offices, the treasury, department of state, and of 
war, are situated in a line with, and at the distance of 450 feet 
from, the president's house. These buildings, of two stories, 
have 120 feet in front, 60 in breadth, and 16 feet in height, 
and are ornamented with a while stone basement, which rises 
six or seven feet above the surface. It was originally proposed 
to form a communication between these offices and the house 
of the president, a plan which was afterwards abandoned. 

The jail consists of two stories, and is 100 by 21 feet. The 
infa*mai*y is a neat building. There are three commodious 
market-places, built at the expence of the corporation. 

The public buildings at the navy-yard are the barracks, a 
work-shop, and three lai'ge brick buildings for the reception of 
naval stores. The barracks, constructed of brick, are 600 feet 
in length, 50 in breadth, and 20 in height. At the head of 
the barrack-yard is the colonel's house, which is neat and com- 
modious. The work-shop, planned by Latrobe, is 900 feet in 
length. 



UNITED STATES. 323 

The patent office, constructed according to the plan of J. 
Hoban, esq. (who gained the prize for that of the president's 
house,) consists of three stories, and is 120 feet long, and 60 
feet wide. It is ornamented with a pediment, and six Ionic 
pilasters. From the eminence on which it stands, the richly 
wooded hills rise on every side, and present a scene of un- 
equalled beauty. 

The inhabitants of the city form a body, politic and corpo- 
rate, under the title of ' Mayor and Council of Washington.' 
The council, consisting of 12 members, not under 25 years of 
age, is elected annually by the free white male inhabitants aged 
21 or upwards, who have paid taxes the year preceding the 
election, and is divided into two chambers, the first of which 
has seven, and the second five members. The fines, penalties, 
and forfeitures imposed by the council, if not exceeding 20 
dollars, are recovered, like small debts, before a magistrate ; 
and if greater than this sum, by an action of debt in the dis- 
trict-court of Columbia. In 1806, the corporation passed an 
act to establish an infirmary, for which the sum of 2000 dollars 
was appropriated, and trustees appointed for the superinten- 
dence of this establishment. In August, 1810, a sum not ex- 
ceeding 1000 dollars was appropriated, for the support of the 
infirm and diseased; and the corporation have allotted certain 
squares (numbered 109 and 1026) for places of interment, 
which are situated at a proper distance from the populous part 
of the city. Two dollars are the price of a grave. 

The canal, which runs through the centre of the city, com- 
mencing at the mouth of the Tiber creek, and connecting the 
Patomak with its eastern branch, is nearly completed. Mr. 
Law, (brother to the late lord Ellenborough,) the chief pro- 
moter of this undertaking, proposes to establish packet-boats, 
to run between the Tiber creek and the navy-yard, a convey- 
ance which may be rendered more economical and comfortable 
than the hackney-coach. This canal is to be navigable for 
boats drawing three feet water. If the nett profits exceed 15 
per cent, on the sum expended, the excess is to be paid to the 
mayor and city council. 



324 VIEW OF THE 

The Patomak bridge was built under the direction of a 
company, or board of commissioners, and the funds were I'aised 
by a subscription consisting of 2000 shares, at 100 dollars per 
share. The expences of the work amounted to 96,000 dollars, 
and consequently the real value of a share was 48. Th6 
bridge, which is covered with planks of white and yellow pine, 
is a mile in length, and is supported by strong piles, from 18 
to 40 feet, according to the depth of the water. A neat rail- 
ing separates the foot from the horse-way. By means of a 
simple crank and pulley, the draw-bridge, for the passage of 
vessels, is raised by the force of one individual. 

The tolls ai'e high : a four-horse carriage, 1 i dollar ; a two- 
horse carriage, 1 dollar ; a four-horse waggon, 62| cents ; a 
two-horse waggon, 37g ; a gig, 36^; a horse, 18^; a man, 
6^. The toll of 1810 amounted to 9000 dollars. The inte- 
rest of the stock has risen to eight per cent. After the lapse 
of 60 years, the corporation will be dissolved, and the bridge 
become the property of the United States. 

It was an unfortunate circumstance, that, in planning this 
city, some provision was not made for preserving the fine trees 
which covered the soil, in those situations where they would 
have been useful or ornamental. The whole of the natural 
wood has been cut down, and its place is very poorly supplied 
by some few Lombardy poplars, which afford neither shade 
nor shelter. This is an error wliich nothing but time can 
repair. 

The patent office is under the direction of Dr. Thornton, a 
native of the West Indies, now a citizen of the United States, 
who has a salary of 2000 dollars per annum. To obtain a 
patent for an art or machine, the inventor, if at'itizen of the 
United States, declares upon oath, before a justice of the 
county where he resides, that he believes himself to be the 
true inventor ; and he gives a description of this art or ma- 
chine, and the use to which it is applied, accompanied, if ne- 
cessary, with a drawing, in a letter addressed to the secretary 
of state of the United States ; and this description is inserted 
in the patent, for which the sum of 30 dollars is paid to the 



UNITED STATES. 325 

treasury department. If the applicant is not a citizen of the 
United States, he must declare on oath, that he has resided 
therein more than two years. The copy-right of books, prints, 
maps, 8ec. is secured by depositing a copy thereof in the clerk's 
office of the district court, where the author or proprietor re- 
sides. This is recorded and published in one or more news- 
papers, during four weeks, commencing within two months of 
tlie date of the record. The right is thus secured, for the 
space of 14 years, to the citizens or residents of the United 
States ; and by a renewal of those formalities, it is extended to 
their executors, administrators, and assigns, for another term 
of 14 years. Tiic patents issued from the 1st of August, 
1790, to the 1st of January, 1805, were 698; and the amount 
received at the treasury department for patents, from 1801 to 
1809 inclusive, was upwards of 27,000 dollars. 

Exclusive of the bank of the United States, there are seven 
banks in the district of Columbia. The Marine Insurance 
Company of Alexandria was incorporated in 1789, with the 
power of having a capital of 12,500 shares, at 20 dollars a 
share, or 250,000 dollars. 

By an act of the city council, in December, 1804^ the pub- 
lic schools of the city are placed under the direction of a board 
.of thirteen trustees, seven of whom are elected annually by the 
joint ballot of the council, and six by individuals who contri- 
bute to the support of the schools. The net proceeds of taxes 
on slaves and dogs, of licences for carriages, and hacks for or- 
dinaries and taverns, for selling wines and spirits, for billiard 
tables, for hawkers, and pedlars, for theatrical and other pub- 
lic amusements, are employed for the education of the poor of 
the city. 

There are two academies in the city, under the direction of 
the corporation, which were established by the voluntary con- 
tributions of the inhabitants, and are supported by the corpo- 
ration. In these two seminaries there are generally from 120 
to 1.50 scholars, including those who pay for their tuition. 
The houses are large and commodious, and were intended to 
be the germ of a national university, in conformity to the plan 
described in the last will of general Washington. There are, 



me VIEW OF THE 

besides, twelve or more schools in different parts of the city, 
where the terms of tuition are under five dollars per quarter. 

The catholic college of Georgetown, which was erected, and 
is supported, by subscription, commenced in the year 1790, 
under the direction of the incorporated catholic clergy of the 
state of Maryland. It is a fine brick building, consisting of 
three stories, in length 153 feet, and 33 in breadth, and is fit- 
ted for the reception of 200 students. The terras of tuition 
are as follows : Students above twelve years of age pay 250 
dollars; and under that age, 200; those who attend the 
classes pay 250, owing to extraordinary expences, and some 
particular indulgencies. The payments are made half-yearly 
in advance. To be admitted as a pensioner, the student must 
be a Roman catholic. If a protestant, he boards in a house 
convenient to the college, where he enjoys equal advantages 
with the catholics, except as to admission to the instruction 
and exercises of the Roman religion. The students are in- 
structed in the English, French, Latin, and Greek languages; 
in geop-raphy, arithmetic, algebra, geometry, and the different 
branches of classical education. Public examinations are 
holden four times a year. 

A free school has been lately established by subscription, to 
be conducted according to the plan of Mr. Lancaster, who has 
engaged to send two masters from England for its superin- 
tendence and direction. 

A public library has been lately established, by the sub- 
scription of 200 individuals, at twelve dollars each ; and the 
directors of this association have obtained an act of incorpora- 
tion, with powers suitable to the direction of the establishment. 
Mr. Boyle, a painter from Baltimore, collects objects of natural 
history, to form a museum. 

There is no reading-room at Washington, which is perhaps 
owing to the profusion of newspapers received there by mem- 
bers of congress, from all parts of the Union. In 1817, seven 
newspapers were published in the district. In one of these, 
the National Inielligencer^ the acts, and sometimes the opi- 
nions, of the government are first communicated to the public ; 
and it is owing to this circumstance, that, in Europe, it is ge- 



UNITED STATES. 327 

nerally considered as the organ of the executive authority. 
This paper is published thrice a week. Other two are on the 
same scale ; two appear weekly, and two daily. 

Of societies there are, the Humane Society, the Washington 
Whig Society, two mason lodges, the Columbian Institute 
founded in 1817, and the Columbian Agricultural Society. 
This last consists of 200 members, who pay one dollar a year 
each, which is expended in premiums for the best cattle, cloth, 
flannels, stockings, carpets, &c. The American Society for 
Colonising Free People of Colour was established in the end 
of 1816. Its object is to procure a situation on the western 
coast of Africa, to which free people of colour may, with their 
own consent, be transported. 

There are different sects, and a gi-eat variety of religious 
opini(ms, but no dissension The annual salary of a clergyman 
at Washington is about 1000 dollars, with a small n)ansion 
and lot of land, — a provision which is said to be inadequate to 
the support of a family; and it is probai)ly owing to this cir- 
cumstance, that two clergymen, the one a presbyterian, and 
the t)ther a baptist, have clerkships in the treasury department. 
The laws of Virginia and Maryland, in relation to the clergy, 
admit of no external badge or distinction of their order in the 
ordinary intercourse of life, but only in the exercise of their 
sacred functions in their respective places of divine worship. 
Elsewhere, and at other times, it is as impossible to distinguish 
them from the crowd, as to recognize their places of worship, 
which are witliout steeple, cross, bell, or other distinctive sign 
of religious appropriation. By an act of December, 179 -, for 
the suppressicm of vice, and punishing the disturbers of reli- 
gious worship, persons offending in these respects are liable to 
fine and imprisonment, and to be bound over to good behavi- 
our. For profane swearing and drunkenness, the penalty is 
83 cents ; and for labouring on Sunday, 1 dollar and 75 cents, 
applicable to all persons, and especially to apprentices, servants, 
and slaves. For adultery (of which there is scarcely an ex- 
ample) the punishment is 20 dollars; lor fojiiication (which n 
too common) one half of this sum. 



328 VIEW OF THE 

In 1815, there were in Washington nine physicians, and 
two apothecaries, who were also physicians ; their fee in the 
city is a dollar a visit ; in the country it is regulated by the 
distance. 

Georgetown is finely situated on the north-east side of the 
Patovnak river. It is divided from Washington by Rock 
creek, over which there are two bridges. The distance of 
Georgetown from Alexandria is ten miles; and there is a 
daily communication between these two places by means of a 
packet-boat. 

In 1810, the population of Georgetown was upwards of 
7000. Some trade has been carried on between this port and 
tl)e West Indies. Mr. Scott, in his Geographical Dictionary, 
informs us, that the exports of 1794 amounted to 128,924 
dollars. Flour and other articles are transported to Alexan- 
dria in vessels which do not draw more than nine feet water. 

The houses of Georgetown, which ai'e cliiefly of brick, have 
a neat appearance. Several were built before the streets were 
formed, which gave rise to an observation from a French lady, 
that Georgetown had houses without streets, — Washington 
streets without houses. The bank is a neat building. The 
churches, under the direction of trustees, are plain and with- 
out ornament. 

Alexandria may be considered the port of Washington, 
from which it is distant only about seven miles. It was for- 
merly named Belhaven, and is pleasantly situated on the Vir- 
ginia, or Avest side of the river Patomak. The streets, Uke 
those of Philadelphia, run in straight lines, and intersect each 
other at riaht angles. The houses are of a neat construction. 
Those erected at the expence of the public are, an episcopal 
church, an academy, court-house, bank, and jail. Alexandria 
has carried on a considerable commerce with New Orleans, 
and also with the East and West Indies, and some European 
ports. • The warehouses and wharfs are very commodious. 
Vessels of 500 tons lie in the basons. Some have sailed from 
this port with 1200 hogsheads of tobacco on board. 
. There have been many failures among the principal mer- 
chants of this place, in consequence of losses abroad, or unfor- 



UNITED STATES. 829 

tunate speculations. Those who carry on business at present 
employ their capitals in a more cautious manner. 

Manufactures are yet in their infancy. Two manufactories 
of cut nails have been lately established, and several of woollen 
and other cloths. House rent is cheap, for, except along the 
basons, it is not more than six pei" cent., and in some places 
not half that sum. By a census taken in 1817, the inhabit- 
ants were found to be, — whites, 5518 ; blacks, 26*46, (of whom 
104)7 were free.) Total, 8153. In this year a lottery was 
authorised by congress, to raise funds for building a peniten- 
tiary, a city-hall, and two Lancastrian schools. 

There are already five churches, protestant, presbyterian, 
catholic, niethodist, and baptist. ly the academy there are 
40 scholars, 35 of whom learn Latin and classical literature, 
and 21 reading, writing, and arithmetic. There are nine or 
ten physicians, but there is no medical society. Any person 
may exercise this profession. In the town the usual fee is a 
dollar per visit ; and five dollars to and within the distance of 
ten miles. 

Having noticed Alexandria and Georgetown, which may 
justly be considered as appendages to Washington, we will 
now return to the description of this city. 

The celebrated Moore has humourously described the fede- 
ral city : 

' This famed metropolis, where fancy sees 
Squares in morasses, obelisks in ti^ees.' 

And even Mr. Mellish, who panegyrises every thing Ameri- 
can, says, ' Being told that we were entering "Washington city, 
I continued looking for the houses for some little time ; but 
seeing none, I thought I had misunderstood the gentleman 
who made the remark^ and turning round for an explanation, 
he told me, laughing, that we were ahnost in the very middle 
of it, and asked if I did not see the capitol a little before us. 
I did, indeed, see a stately edifice, but no other appearance of 
a city. Soon after this, the stage stopped, at Steele's hotel, 
nearly opposite the capitol, where I took lodgings.'' 

2 T 



330 VIEW OF THE 

However, this city is not so despicable as has been repre- 
sented ; though its increase cannot be rapid. ' Here/ observes 
an English traveller, ' is fine natural scenery, but no decidedly 
great natural advantages ; little external commerce, a barren 
soil, a scanty population, enfeebled too by the deadly weight 
of absolute slavery, and no direct means of communication 
with the western country. For the apparently injudicious se- 
lection of such a spot, upon which to raise the capital of a 
great nation, several reasons are given. Some have even gone 
so far as to attribute to general' Washington the influence of 
pecimiary interest, his property being in the neighbourhood. 
But the most common argument adduced in support of the 
chuice is that it is central, or rather that it was so; for the 
recent addition of new states has removed the centre very far 
west, so much so indeed, that the inhabitants of Lexington 
affirm, that tJteir town must on that ground soon become the 
capital; and even the people of St. Louis, in the Missouri, 
put in their claim, that city being said to be geographically 
the exact centre of the Union. But assuming that Washing- 
ton were central, I do not see much validity in the argument ; 
— at least if we are to be influenced in our judgment by any 
country in the old world — where is the important nation whose 
capital is placed exactly in the centre of its dominions ? Spain 
is perhaps the only country which can be adduced, and no very 
favourable conclusion can be drawn from such an instance : 
though unquestionablv if rivers and soil, if roads and canals, 
all united to recommend that situation, it would be in some 
other respects extremely convenient ; but this not being the 
case, the knowledge of Euclid must be dispensed with for 
something of more practical, though perhaps more vulgar 
utility. 

* There may be other objections to this capital : among 
them I would venture to suggest, that the legislators and 
rulers of a nation ought to reside in that city which has the 
most direct communication with all parts of their country, and 
of the world at large ; they ought to see with their own eyes, 
and hefir vvith their own ears, without which, though possessed 
■of the best intentions, they must often be in eiror. News- 



UNITED STATES. , S31 

paper communications, letters, and agents, are but substitutes, 
and sometimes very poor ones ; besides which, I conceive thai 
mere expedients should not be admitted in national legislation. 
Unless the city increases with a rapidity, unsanctioned by the 
most sanguine anticipation, the American law-makers will be 
half ;i century behind what they would become by a residence 
in New York or Philadelphia. Another objection to Wash- 
ington may suggest itself to some minds, in its neighbourhood 
to Virginia. The " Virginian dynasty," as it has been called, 
is a subject of general, and I think very just complaint 
throughout other parts of America. This state has supplied 
four of the five presidents, and also a liberal number of occu- 
pants of every other government office. The Virginians very 
modestly assert, that this monopoly does not proceed from 
corrupt influence, but is a consequence of the buoyancy and 
vigour of their natural talent. Without entering into the 
controversy, whether or not seventeen states can supply a de- 
gree of ability equal to that of Virginia single-handed, I must 
express my want of respect for a state in which every man is 
either a slave-holder, or a defender of slavery — a state in which 
landed property is not attachable for debt — a state in which 
human beings are sold in the streets by the public auctioneer, 
are flogged without trial at the mercy of their owner or his 
agents, and are killed almost without punishment ; —yet these 
men dare to call themselves democrats, and friends of liberty ! 
— from such democrats, and such friends of liberty, good Lord 
deliver us I" 

A late intelligent traveller, (lieutenant Hall,) speaking of 
the city and the proposed university, says, ' The plan sup- 
poses an immense growth ; but even if this were attainable, it 
seems doubtful how iar an overgrown luxurious capital would 
be the fittest seat for learning, or even legislation. Perhaps 
the true interest of the Union would rather hold Washington 
sacred to science, piiilosophy, and the arts ; a spot in some de- 
gree kept holy from commercial avarice, to which the members 
of the different states may retire to breathe an atmosphere un- 
tainted with local prejudices, and find golden leisure for pur- 
suits and speculations of pubUc utility. Such fancies would 



aS2 VIEW OF THE 

be day dreams elsewhere, and are so perhaps here ; but Ame- 
rica is young in the career of knowledge ; she has the hght of 
former ages, and the sufferings of the present to guide her ; 
she has not crushed the spirits of the many to build up the 
tyranny of the few, and the eye of imagination may dwell 
upon her smilingly.' 

The ground of Washington was originally the property of 
private individuals, who, by an arrangement with the govern- 
ment, ceded one half to the public, in consideration of the en- 
hanced price of the other, by virtue of this cession. Four 
thousand five hundred lots, each containing 6265 superficial 
feet, are the property of the nation, and have been estimated 
at 1,500,000 dollars. Some of these lots have been sold at 45 
cents per foot, though the common price is from 8 to 15 cents, 
depending on the advantages of situation. Near the centre 
market several have been purchased at 25 cents. The ori- 
ginal price of lots was from 200 to 800 dollars each, which 
shows that their value has considerably diminished. This has 
been owing to different causes, and particularly to the project 
of some eastern members of congress to transfer the seat of 
government to some other place. The value of this property 
has also suffered by litigation. In 1804, several purchasers 
refused to pay to the commissioners of the government the 
sums stipulated in the deed of sale, which were to be dis- 
charged, according to agreement, at certain fixed dates. In 
consequence of this refusal, the commissioners ordered the lots 
to be sold to the highest bidder, and they were repur- 
chased by the former proprietors for one-tenth of the original 
cost; by which circumstance the government experienced a 
loss of 70,000 dollars. The supreme court, to whom the case 
was submitted, decided in favour of the proprietors, alleging, 
that, as a remedy had been sought in the sale of the lots, the 
government could not have recourse to another, and it also 
became responsible for the expences of the law-suit, amounting 
to 2000 dollars. The proprietors united in support of their 
mutual interests, which were defended by the ablest lawyers, 
except the attorney-general, who stood alone in the behalf of 
the government. 



UNITED STATES. 33S 

A house, consisting of three stories, 26 feet in front, and 40 
feet deep, completely finished, costs from 4000 to 6000 dollars. 
A house of two stories, of the same length and breadth, is va- 
lued at from 3000 to 4000 dollars. 

The rate of house-rent is proportioned to the expence of the 
materials of its construction, and the advantages of its situa- 
tion. Bricks cost from 5| to 6| dollars per thousand. Their 
dimensions, as fixed by an act of the corporation, are 9|, 4|, 
2f inches. 

Calcareous stone, of a bluish colour, is brought from the 
neighbourhood of Georgetown, and purchased at a cheap rate. 
Unslacked lime costs from 2 to 2i dollars per barrel. Wood 
is cheap ; pine and oak are brought from the eastern shore of 
the Chesapeake. A good bricklayer is paid at the rate of 
three dollars for every thousand bricks. Some of the houses 
are covered with slate, though generally with boards, called 
shingles, the use of which ought to be prohibited, on account 
of their combustible nature. Wood is chiefly employed for 
fuel, and oak and hickory are preferred, which are sold at the 
rate of four dollars per cord, except during an unusually se- 
vere winter, when the price has been from six to seven dollars. 
By an act of the corporation, a cord of wood must be eight 
feet in length, four in breadth, and ' well stowed and packed.' 
A good dray-horse can be purchased at Washington for 60, a 
saddle-horse for 130, and a milch-cow for Q5 dollars. 

The whole exports for the district of Columbia, for the year 
ending 30th September, 1817, were 1,768,658 dollars, of which 
1,689,102 were domestic produce, and 79,556 foreign. 

The inhabitants of Washington are social and hospitable. 
Respectable strangers, after the slightest introduction, are in- 
vited to dinner, tea, balls, and evening parties. Tea parties 
have become very expensive, as not only tea, but coffee, negus, 
cakes, sweetmeats, iced creams, wines, and liquors, are often 
pre.sented; and, in a sultry summer evening, are found too 
palatable to be refused. In winter, there is a succession of 
family balls, where all this species of luxury is exhibited. 

Both sexes, whether on horseback or on foot, wear an um- 
brella in all seasons : in summer, to keep off the sun-beams ; 



334 VIEW OF THE 

in winter, as a shelter from the rain and snow ; in spring and 
autumn, to intercept the dews of the evening. Persons of all 
ranks canter their horses, which movement fatigues the animal, 
and has an ungraceful appearSince. At dinner, and at tea 
parties, the ladies sit together, and seldom mix with the gen- 
tlemen, whose conversation naturally turns upon pohtical sub- 
jects. In almost all houses toddy is offered to guests a few 
minutes before dinner. Gentlemen wear the hat in a carriage 
with a lady as in England. Any particular attention to a lady 
is readily construed into an intention of marriage. Boarders 
in boarding-houses, or in taverns, sometimes throw off the coat 
during the heat of summer ; and in winter the shoes, for the 
purpose of warming the feet at the fire ; customs which the 
climate only can excuse. In summer, invitation to tea parties 
is made verbally by a servant, the same day the party is given ; 
in winter, the invitation is more ceremonious. The barber 
arrives on horseback to perform the operation of shaving ; and 
here, as in Europe, he is the organ of all news and scandal. 

On the subject of manners, Mr. Fearon says, ' Tea parties, 
and private balls, are now very frequent. Mr. Bagot, the 
English ambassador, and his lady, are particularly assiduous 
in their attentions to all classes, and maintain a strict conform- 
ity with the habits of the place. Their cards of invitation are 
left at my boarding-house for diiFereut gentlemen every day. 
The speaker (Mr. Clay) gives public periodical dinners. A 
drawing-room is held weekly at the president's house : it is 
generally crowded. There is little or no difficulty in getting 
introduced on these occasions. Mr. Munroe is a very plain, 
practical man of business. The custom is shaking, and not 
the degrading one of kissing, hands. Conversation, tea, ice, 
music, chewing tobacco, and excessive spitting, afford employ- 
ment for the evening. The dress of the ladies is very elegant, 
though that of the gentlemen is too frequently rather ungen- 
tlemanly. 

'The theatre is a miserable building. I have attended se- 
veral representations in it by the same company which I saw 
when in Pittsburgh. Incledon has been here— the Washing- 
ton critics think him too vulgar, and also an indifferent singer ! 



UNITED STATES. 335 

* In this city I witnessed also tlie exhibitions of Sema Sama, 
the Indian juggler, from London. My chief" attention was 
directed to the audience ; their disbelief of the possibility of 
performing the nomerous feats advertised, and their incon- 
ceivable ast<inishment at witnessing the actual achievement, 
appeared extreme, — approaching almost to childish wonder 
and astonishment. 

' The few private families to which 1 have had introductions, 
do not evince a more accurate knowledge of that English word 
comfort than I have remarked elsewhere ; indeed, I would 
class them a century inferior to Boston, and half a century 
behind New York. The boarding-houses and inns partake of 
the same characteristics. I first applied at the chief, wbich is 
Davis's Indian Queen tavern : most of the door-handles are 
broken ; the floor of the coffee-room is strewed with bricks 
and mortar, caused by the crumbling of the ceiling; and the 
character of the accommodations is in unison with this unor- 
ganised state of things : the charges are as high as at the very 
first London hotel.' , 

In the summer of 1814, this metropolis was taken possession 
of by an English naval and land force, which set fire to the 
capitol, president's house, public offices, and navy-yard. The 
moveable property destroyed at the latter place has been esti- 
mated at 417,743 dollars; the loss sustained in buildings and 
fixtures at 91,425; the expences of rebuilding at 62,370; in - 
all, 571,538 dollars. The loss sustained by the partial de- 
struction of the capitol, president's house, and other public 
edifices, has been estimated at 460,000 dollars ; in all, 
1,031,538 dollars. The superintendent of the public build- 
ings, in his report, dated the 29th of October, 1814, gave the 
following statement of their cost down to the date of their de- 
struction : — 

Xorth wing of the capitol, including the foundation walls of both 
wings, and of the centre or main building, and of alterations and 
repairs, --___. 457,388 dollars. 

South wing of the capitol, - . _ 329,774 

President's house, - - - _ _ 334,334 
Public offices, - - - - - - .93,6 13 

Total, - . . - ' - - . 1,215,109 dollars. 



336 VIEW OF THE, &c. 

' Upon a second visit to the capitol,' says Mr. Fearon, * I 
explored nearly all its recesses. Marks of the late conflagra- 
tion are still very apparent, while the walls bear evidence of 
public opinion in relation to that transaction, which seems to 
have had the singular fate of casting disgrace upon both the 
Americans and British. Some of the pencil drawings exhibit, 
the military commander hanging upon a tree ; others repre- 
sent the president running off without his hat or wig ; some, 
admiral Cockburn robbing hen-roosts: to which are added 
such inscriptions as, " The capital of the Union lost by cow- 
ardice ;" " Curse cowards ;■" " A sold the city for 5000 

dollars;" "James Madison is a rascal, a coward, and a fool;"" 
" Ask no questions," &c.' 

An English emigrant, in a letter to the editor, after repro- 
bating in severe terms the Gothic barbarity of general Ross, 
exultingly observes, that the Englishmen employed in repair- 
ing the damages he effected were nearly as numerous as those 
that followed him. 



A 

GENERAL VIEW 

OF THE 

PRESENT STATE AND RESOURCES 

OF THE 

UNITED STATES. 

OF THE POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES. 

npHE enumeration or census of the inhabitants is made every 
ten years. The heads of famiUes, or free persons of six- 
teen years of age, are obliged to render a true account, on pain 
of forfeiting the sum of twenty dollars ; and as a check, upon 
the returns, a schedule of the local enumeratiou is exhibited in 
some public place. A return is made, on oalh, to the secre- 
tary of state of the United States ; and a copy is filed by the 
clerks of the districts, or of the superior courts. Neglect of 
duty, or misrepresentation on the part of the marshal or secre- 
tary, is punished by a fine of 800 dollars ; on that of the as- 
sistant, 200. The act providing for the last census (1810) 
allowed nine months for its execution, commencing the 1st of 
August of the same year, which was afterwards extended to 
eleven months. The whole expence of the enumeration has 
been estimated at 40,000 dollars. 

The following estimate of the population of the British 
American colonies in 1753, inserted in Marshall's Life of 
Washington, was deduced from miUtia rolls, poll taxes, bills 
of mortality, and other documents considered as correct. 
15 ' 2 U 



338 VIEW OF THE 



Nova Scotia, 


- 


- 


5,000 inhabitants- 


New Hampshire, 


- 


- 


30,000 


Massachusetts Bay, 




- 


220,000 


Rhode Island, 


- 


- 


35,000 


Connecticut, 


- 


- 


100,000 


New York, 


- 


- 


100,000 


The Jerseys, - 


- 


- 


60,000 


Pennsylvania and Delaware, 


250,000 


Maryland, 


- 


- 


85,000 


Virginia, 


- 


- 


85,000 


North Carolina, 


- 


- 


45,000 


South Carolina, 


- 


-• 


30,000 


Georgia, 


- 


- 


6,000 



Total, - 1,051,000 

The population of the United States territory, at different 
periods, was as follows: In 1753, 1,051,000; in 1780, 
2,051,000; in 1790, 3,929,326; in 1800, 5,308,666; in 
1810, 7,239,903. The increase in the first ten years was 
1,878,326; in the second, 1,379,340; of the last, 1,931,237. 
It appears that the population has more than doubled every 
twenty years since the period of the first American establish- 
ments. According to the enumeration of 1810, there were — 

Males. Females. Difference. 

Free whites, under 10 years cfage, 1,035,278 981,426 53,852 

of 10, and imder 16, 468,183 448,324 19,859 

of 16, and under 26, 547,597 561,668 14,071 

of 26, and under 45, 572,347 544,156 28,191 

of45, and upwards, 364,736 338,378 26,358 

The number of free people of colour is stated to be 186,446 

The number of slaves, _ - _ 1,191,364 

In Europe, generally, the proportion of marriages to the 
population has been estimated at 1 to 120; that of births, 1 
to 27 ; and that of deaths, 1 to 30. In the United States, 
the marriages are as 1 to 30 ; the births as 1 to 20 ; and the 
deaths as 1 to 40. The yearly births have been estimated at 
5| per 100 ; the yearly deaths at 2i per 100. The popula- 



UNITED STATES. 339 

tion of the city of New Yoi-k was ascertained with great ex- 
actness in 1805, and the number of male white inhabitants 
was 35,384 ; of females, 36,378. The annual augmentation 
of slaves is about 2^ per 100. Of 7,239,903, the whole po- 
pulation in 1810, 1,191,364 were slaves, and 186,446 free, 
persons of colour. The slaves belong chiefly to Maryland, 
Virginia, Carolina, Georgia, and Kentucky, in which states, 
taken collectively, they form nearly one-third of the popula- 
tion. In Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Vermont, there 
are no slaves, and very few in Rhode Island and Connecticut. 
By the last census, there were but 108 in the former, and 310 
in the latter place. 

The whole number of slaves, in 1 800, was 896,849 

In 1810, . . - . 1,191,364 



Increase in ten yeai's, - 294,515 

It appears from the different enumerations made according 
to the population acts of congress, that the increase is at the 
rate of three per cent, per annum ; in other words, that the 
population doubles every 23 years ; and it is probable that it 
will preserve this rate of increase for a hundred years and 
more, owing to the immense extent of country yet unpeopled. 
In 1810, it amounted in round numbers to 7,000,000; in 
1833, it will be 14,000,000 ; in 1856, 28,000,000 ; in 1879, 
56,000,000; in 1902, 112,000,000; in 1925, 224,000,000. 
This last number, scattered over a territory of 3,000,000 of 
square miles, would average about 70 to each mile, a popula- 
tion similar to that of Massachusetts proper, and about the ave- 
rage of Europe. 

ON THE STATE OF EDUCATION, KNOWLEDGE, AND THE ARTS. 

The progress of the Americans has been greater in the use- 
ful arts than in the fine arts, or the sciences, though their ad- 
vances in the latter are respectable, considering the shortness 
of their career. The state of knowledge and education gene-i 
rally have been mentioned in the course of the work, 



340 VIEW OF THE 

The education of youth, which is so essential to the well- 
being of society, and to the developement of national wealth, 
has always been a primary object of public attention in the 
United States. Since the year 1800, especially, great addi- 
tions have been made to the number of schools and academical 
institutions ; to the funds for supporting them, and to all the 
means for providing instruction, and disseminating information. 
In 1809, the number of colleges had increased to 25, that of 
academies to 74. Those institutions ai'e incorporated by the 
legislature of each state, and are subject to its inspection, 
though placed respectively under the direction of boards of 
trustees. 

In the western states congress have reserved 640 acres of 
the public land in each township for the support of. schools, 
besides seven entire townships of 23,040 acres each, two of 
which are situated in the state of Ohio, and one in each of the 
states and territories of Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missis- 
sippi, and Louisiana. In the state of New York, in 1811, the 
fund for common schools, subject to the disposal of the legis- 
lature, amounted to half a million of dollars, giving an annual 
revenue of 36,000 dollars. The school fund of the state of 
Connecticut amounts at present to a very large sum. — 
Since the year 1800 the number of American students of me- 
dicine, graduating in foreign countries, has considerably dimi- 
nished, the medical schools of Philadelphia and New York 
having acquired a high reputation. The period of college 
study is four years. Several medical journals are published at 
Philadelphia, New York, Boston, and Baltimore; and there 
are American editions of the most celebrated medical works of 
Europe. New publications of celebrity, in all departments of 
literature, are immediately republished ; and a quarto volume, 
which costs two guineas in London, may be purchased in 
America, in a neat octavo form, for the same number of dol- 
lars. The Edinburgh and Quarterly Reviews are regularly 
republished, and circulated to a great extent. Throughout 
the New England States the schools are suppoi'ted by a public 
tax, and are under the direction of a committee. In these se- 
minaries the poor and the rich are educated together, and are 



UNITED STATES. 341 

taught reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, and geography. 
In other parts of the Union also, schools are provided for the 
education of the poorer class. The system of Lancaster has 
been lately adopted in different places. Various societies have 
been lately established for the advancement of knowledge ; 
particularly of those branches which are connected with agri- 
culture, arts, and manufactures. The American Philosophical 
Society at Philadelphia has already published six volumes on 
scientific subjects. An Athenaeum, on the plan of that of Li- 
verpool, has been lately established at Boston. In the space 
of ten days a subscription of 40,000 dollars was collected for 
the use of this establishment. The American Academy of 
Arts and Sciences at Boston has published one volume of 
Transactions. The New York Society for the promotion of 
agriculture, arts, and manufactures, has published four vo- 
lumes. The Philadelphia Society for promoting agriculture 
has published two. The Georgetown Society has published 
one on husbandry and rural affairs. 

The Americans have already given proofs of a taste for 
painting. The names of West, Copely, Trumbull, Stewart, 
Vanderlyn, Jarvis, Wood, Allston, Leslie, Peale, Sully, 
Morse, Earle, and Todd, the first eight historical and land- 
scape, the last portrait painters, are well known in Europe. 
Academies for the cultivation of the fine arts have been lately 
established at Philadelphia and New York, Plaster casts of 
the principal antique statues, with a few pictures, have been 
procured from Paris for both institutions. Those of the latter 
were presented by the emperor Napoleon, on his being ap- 
pointed a member. The liberal spirit which fosters these 
establishments does great honour to citizens, most of whom 
are merchants. 

The museum at Philadelphia has been lately enriched with 
a variety of objects in natural history, of which the most strik- 
ing is the skeleton of the mammoth. Within a lew years the 
soil and productions of the United States have become the 
subject of philosophical lesearch, and lectures on chemistry, 
mineralogy, and botany, are delivered in the cities of Phila- 
delphia, New York, and Boston. 



34J2 VIEW OF THE 

The number of copies which are sold of public works of va- 
rious kinds aflbrds one of the most striking proofs of the pro- 
gi'ess of knowledge ; and the newspaper press is the great 
organ of communication in America. In this description of 
literature the United States are entitled to take precedence of 
all other countries, at least so far as relates to number. In 
the beginning of the year 1810 there were 364 newspapers in 
the United States, 25 of which were printed daily, 16 thrice a 
week, 33 twice, and 262 weekly. Before the American revo- 
lution there were but nine newspapers in the United States. 
In the state of New York there are 100 printing establish- 
ments, and 70 gazettes. The annual aggregate amount of 
newspapers is estimated at 25,200,000. The following table 
■will show the number in each state : 



New Hampshire, 


12 


Nor til Carolina, 


10 


Massachusetts, 


38 


South Carolina, 


10 


Rhode Island, 


7 


Georgia, - - - 


13 


Connecticut, 


11 


Kentucky, 


17 


Vermont, - 


14 


Tennessee, 


6 


New York, 


66 


Ohio, 


14 


Pennsylvania, 


71 


District of Columbia, 


4 


Delaware, 


o 


Indiana territory. 


1 


Maryland, 


21 


Mississippi do. - 


1 


New Jersey, 


8 


Orleans, - _ . 


10 


Virginia, - - - 


24. 


Louisiana, 


1 



In the month of May, 181 7> the whole number of newspapers in 
the United States was about 500, the number printed weekly, 
250,000. 

In 1792, the whole number of newspapers in Great Britain and 
Ireland was 213. 

The expeditions under Lewis and Clarke, and major Pike, 
have made valuable additions to geography ; and the vessel 
now (May, 1819) ready to sail on a voyage of discovery, shews 
the anxiety of the government to promote the interests of sci- 
ence. The congress has also ordered a trigonometrical and 
maritime survey of the American coast. 

In mechanics the Americans have been particularly inven- 
tive. The number of patents issued at the patent office, from 



UNITED STATES. 348 

the 1st of January, 1812, to the 1st of January, 1813, 
amounted to 235. The machinery of flour-mills has several 
ingenious contrivances not known in Europe, The machines 
for making cotton cards, and for the manufacture of nails, are 
no less useful to the country than creditable to the inventors. 
Two Americans are candidates for the prize of a million of 
francs, offered by the French government for the best machine 
for spinning flax. The saving of manual labour by one of the 
American machines is said to be four-fifths, but the conditions 
of the prize require nine-tenths. The ginning machine, for 
separating cotton from the seed, has been of incalculable value 
in reducing the cost of cotton by a vast saving of manual la- 
bour. The method employed of lighting the interior of Ame- 
rican merchant vessels, and vessels of war, by means of cylin- 
ders of glass placed in the deck, is found to be very useful at 
sea. A new apparatus for the distillation of salt water on 
board of vessels at sea, invented by major Lamb of New 
York, has been found so superior to the contrivances formerly 
in use, that it has been adopted by the English navy board 
for the public ships. The American machinery for making 
boots and shoes by means of iron wire or nails has been lately 
employed in England ; and an idea may be formed of its eco- 
nomical advantages from the circumstance of its beinif able to 
furnish a pair of shoes in a quarter of an hour. 

Perhaps, of all the American inventions, the application of 
steam to inland navigation is the most splendid, and promises 
to be the most useful, especially to ihe country which gave 
it birth. Steam-boats now ply on the Hudson, Delaware, 
Patomak, Savannah, Ohio, Mississippi, and nearly all the 
other navigable streams in the United States. Boats of 150 
feet in length, and 30 to 50 in breadth, are propelled at the 
rate of eight or ten miles an hour in still water. The slowness 
of navigation on the great rivers by sails and oars renders the 
steam-boat invaluable. Among other purposes, it is employed 
to tow large vessels against the wind and current, and it is 
used as a ferry-boat at New York and other ports. The 
steam frigate, constructed at New York according to the plan 
of the late Mr. FuUon, is 145 feet long, 55 feet broad, and 



344. VIEW OF THE 

has an engine of 120 horse power, moving with a velocity 
backwards or forwards at the rate of three miles and a half an 
hour. The wheel is placed in the centre, and is protected by 
the sides, which are six feet in thickness ; in other parts they 
are four and a half. This frigate is to carry 30 cannon, and 
is considered as impregnable. The steam-engine of Evans, 
now employed in the United States, is considered both more 
economical and more simple than that of Watt and Bolton. 

The Americans excel in the erection of bridges : and in 
ship-building they are now decidedly superior to the European 
nations, even to those most renowned for skill in maritime 
affairs. Their public buildings are not numerous, because 
they are yet but young as a nation. Even foreigners admit, 
however, that the capitol at Washington, the ])ank of Penn- 
sylvania, and the city-hall of New York, are very fine edifices. 
The last was lately finished, and cost 538,000 dollars. The 
coin of the United States rivals that of France or of England 
in neatness of execution. 

Dramatic exhibitions have made a rapid progress in the 
United States within the last ten years. Twenty years ago, 
great struggles were made against this species of recreation. 
The clergy of various denominations petitioned several state 
legislatures to suppress theatrical amusements, as immoral and 
profane. In Connecticut this opposition had complete success. 
The principal theatre of that state, in the city of Hartford, 
was converted into a church, and actors are still subject to ex- 
communication. In Massachusetts the church and the stage 
for a long time maintained a doubtful struggle. Plays were 
interdicted, but recitations or lectures were allowed ; and the 
players, obliged to accommodate their proceedings to this ab- 
surd restriction, announced plays under the name of lectures. 
Thus a tragedy or comedy was advertised in such terms as 
these : ' A Moral Lecture ; tlie affecting History of Jane 
Shore, as narr-ited" in dialogue by the celebrated Rowe ;' ' The 
entertaining tale of the Poor Soldier, as told in song and dia- 
logue by the facetious O'Keefe."" By a spirited effort, how- 
ever, in the legislature, the laws against plays were abolished ; 
and a theatre was erected in Boston in the year 1798. About 



UNITED STATES. 345 

1808, great improvements were made in the style of building 
and decoration in the American theatres, which began then to 
rival the theatres of the old world. 

All the best new pieces on the British stage are transmitted 
to America with great rapidity ; and in dresses, decorations, 
and style of criticism, a great similarity obtains between the 
tw« countries. There are slight differences, however, in the 
customs of the audience. Ladies and gentlemen are never 
expected, as a point of etiquette, to wear full dress in the best 
boxes, it is usual for females to sit in the pit in the southern 
states, but in the northern and middle states they are never 
permitted to be seen there. The passion for spectacle, and 
for the exhibition of horses and elephants on the stage, is as 
prevalent in America as in London. In propriety of decora* 
tion and costume the Americans are particularly defective ; 
they dress with great splendour, but seldom correctly. The 
late celebrated Mr. Cooke, who died in America, remarked 
that the Americans timed their applauses better than any peo- 
ple in the world. With respect to original plays they are very 
deficient; and, indeed, this species of production cannot be 
expected to thrive in a country whei'e all the branches of au- 
thorship) lie under great discouragement. Besides, the ma- 
nagers can procure plays without difficulty from England, and 
have nothing to pay for the copyright ; yet many plays have 
been written and acted with success in America. 

The pay of authors is governed by the same rules as in 
England, but there is a great preference given to plays from 
the mother-country ; and the sterling dramas of the English 
stage, especially the works of Shakespeare, seldom fail to bring 
full houses The celebrated actors on the American stage 
have almost exclusively emigrated from England. The first 
of any decided reputation was the late Mr. Hodgkinson, ori- 
ginally from Bath, who was excellent in every variety of the 
scene, from the highest tragedy to the lowest farce. The late 
Mrs. Warren, celebrated as Miss Brunton in Covent- Garden, 
was the female wonder of tragedy in America for many years; 
and two comedians, lately deceased, by the names of T waits 
and Harwood, were long at the head of the comic department. 

2 X 



34.6 VIEW OF THE 

Mr. Fennel was a very deserving tragedian, and for some 
years contested tlie palm of superiority with Mr. Cooper, who 
remained master of the field, and at present takes the lead in 
the American drama. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Blissot, Mr. Ber- 
nards, Mrs. Hilson, and Mrs. Darby, all from England, also 
enjoy a high rank at present on the American boards. Mr. 
John Howard Payne, the young tragedian known in Europe 
and America under the title of the American Roscius, is the 
only native who has ever enjoyed a very high degree of suc- 
cess. His first appearance at New York, February 24, 1809, 
at the age of sixteen, produced an effect equalled by a similar 
debut a short time before in England. The pay given to the 
best regularly engaged actors does not exceed from 30 to 40 
dollars per week. The benefits of such performers may pro- 
duce them from 800 to 1500 dollars in addition. Mr. Cooper 
receives 125 dollars weekly, and half the profits of every se- 
venth night, on his regular engagement at New York. When 
he travels, of course the profits vary with t!ie attraction ; 
sometimes he has received 3000 dollars for thirteen nights' 
perforn)ance. Mr. Howard Payne has gained for 26 succes- 
sive nights' performance in Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Rich- 
mond, above 5000'dollars. 

The English language is spoken with as great purity by the 
different classes of society in America as by the corresponding 
classes in England ; while the strongly-marked dialects of 
Scotland and England, and even of the English counties, the 
source of so many barbarisms and corruptions, have no paral- 
lel in the United States. A Yorkshire or Lancashire peasant 
is scarcely intelligible to a Londoner ; but in no district of 
America, not even in the extreme west, where savage and ci- 
vilized life mingle, is there a language spoken not perfectly 
Intelligible to an English ear. 

There are, however, some peculiar phrases in general use, 
which may properly be called Americanisms. The following 
is given as a specimen from Mr. MeUish : 'I was diverted,"" 
says he, ' by a dialogue between the two drivers, in which the 
word giie.is occurred so frequently, that I could hardly hear 
any thing else, " I guess this string's not long enough.'' 



UNITED STATES. 847 

"'■ O yes, I guess it is.'" " O yes, I gu^ss Ell make it do," 
*' There, — I guess you have fixed it."" " Yes, I g^ess you 
guess right.'"' But the departure of tlie learned from the 
pure idioms of the EngUsh language is not considerable. 
When the antipathy against this country ran high during the 
American revolution, it was proposed to drop the use of the 
English tongue and chuse another, when a wag recommended 
the adoption of the Hebrew. 

Of all foreign countries, it is only in America that the choice 
productions of English genius are sought after and appreciated. 
On the continent of Europe nothing but English works of sci- 
ence and practical utility are extensively known, as in fact it 
is these alone which, in any language, can be thoroughly un- 
derstood by foreigners. Courses of lectures on English litera- 
ture are to this day read in continental universities, in which 
none of the distinguished authors who have appeared within 
the last 50 years are ever mentioned. Long before the title of 
an English work, in some untranslated quotation from a re- 
view, is announced at Leipsig, at Paris, or at Rome, it is re- 
printed at Boston, Philadelphia, or New York, and read on 
the banks of the Ohio or Mississippi. This community of 
language the American ought also to prize ^ one of his noblest 
privileges, since it affords him access to a literature more ad- 
vanced than his own can be in the nature of things ; and if it 
be his first boast that he is the countryman of "Washington and 
Franklin, it should be his second, that his forefathers were 
countrymen of Shakespeare and Milton, and ' that Chatham's 
language is his mother-tongue.' 

MANNERS AND HABITS. 

The people of the United States have not that uniform cha- 
racter which belongs to ancient nations, upon whom time, and 
the stability of institutions, liave imprinted a particular and 
individual character. The general physiognomy is as varied 
as its origin is different. English, Irish, German, Scotch, 
French, and Swiss, all retain something of the first stamp, 
which belongs to their ancient country. A markecl distinction. 



348 VIEW OF THE 

however, exists between the inhabitants of the maritime and 
commercial towns, and those of the country. The former 
perfectly resemble the citizens of the great towns of Europe. 
They have all the luxury and vices of an advanced civilization, 
Tliose of the country, who lead an agricultural life, enjoy all 
that happiness which is procured from the exercise of the so- 
cial virtues in their priraitivg purity. Their affections are 
constant; felicity crowns the conjugal union; respect for pa- 
ternal authority is sacred ; infidelity on the part of the wife is 
almost unknown ; divorce is rare ; mendicity and theft un- 
common. 

An Englishman may easily be distinguished by his gait and 
appearance from an American. The latter have a heavy, 
lounging, indifferent kind of manner, indicative of ease and 
carelessness. ' Their whole appearance,"' says a judicious ob- 
server, ' is sallow, and what we should call unhealthy. Our 

friend D tells me that to have colour in the cheeks is an 

infallible criterion by which to be discovered as an English- 
man. In a British town of any importance, you cannot walk 
along a leading street for half an hour without meeting with 
almost every variety of size, dress, and appearance among the 
inhabitants ; whils4| on the contrary, here they seem all of one 
family; and though not quite a "'drab-coloured creation,^ 
the feelings they excite are not many degrees removed from 
tlie uninteresting sensations generated by that expression. 
The yovmg men are tall, thin, and solemn : their dress is uni- 
versally trowsers, and very generally loose great coats. Old 
men, in our English idea of that phrase, appear very rare."" 

In such an extensive country, partaking of very different 
local circumstances, the manners and morals of the community 
must exhibit a great variety. Generally speaking, every state 
has its own peculiar features : and the subjects alluded to have 
been noticed in the view of the various states and territories. 

There is a material difference in point of chaiacter between 
the people of the northern states and those to the southward ; 
there also exists a considerable spirit of rivalry, jealousy, and 
opposition between them The former (speaking in general 
terms) are a plain, honest, and industrious people ; regular 



UNITED STATES. 849 

m their habits, punctual in their payments, and strongly at- 
tached to agricultural and commercial pursuits. But the 
southern planter acquires his wealth not by the sweat of his 
brow like the -New Englander, but by the labour of his ne- 
groes. He lolls at his ease in the shady retreat, drinking, 
smoking, or sleeping, surrounded by his slaves and overseers, 
who furnish him with the luxuries of life, without the neces- 
sity of his leaving the piazza- The northern merchant, on 
the contrary, is strenuously exerting himself from morning till 
night; exercising his faculties, expanding his mind, and en- 
larging his ideas by continual intercourse with people of every 
nation, and correspondence in every quarter of" the globe. 
The planter is deprived of these opportunities of mixing with 
the world, and acquiring an extensive knowledge of the inte- 
rests of trade. Hence he supposes, that to raise a crop and 
sell it sufficiently benefits the country; nor can he eonceire 
what difference it will make, whether it is taken away in a 
ship of his own nation or that of a foreign state. He also 
looks upon the merchant or trader with contempt, as a mere 
plodding fellow who is making a fortune by his assistance ; he 
even hates him, when by careful industry and economy the 
merchant can leave off business, and becomes, t)y the aid of his 
superior wealth and abilities, a more ini]>ortant personage in 
society than himself Such are, in all probability, the causes 
which have created the existing spirit of rivalry, jealousy, and 
opposition, between the northern and southern states ; and 
which, if not quickly extirpated, may one day or other occa- 
sion a separation of the Union. 

The higher and middling classes of the Americans, who 
reside chiefly in the large towns or their neighbourhood, live, 
generally speaking, in a more luxurious manner than the same 
description of people in England. Not' that their tables are 
more sumptuou.^ly furnished on particular occasions than ours; 
but that their ordinary meals consist of a greater variety of 
articles, many of which from too frequent use may, perhaps, 
become pernicious to the constitution. The constant use of 
segars by the young men, even from an early age, may also 
tend to impair the constitution, and create a stimulus l^eyond 



350 VIEW OF THE 

that which nature requires, or is capable of supporting. Theif 
dread of the yellow fever has induced a more frequent use of 
tobacco of late years ; but it is now grown into a habit that 
will not be easily abandoned. The other classes of the com- 
munity, who reside in the interior and back part of the coun- 
try, are often obliged to live upon salt provisions the greatest 
part of the year, and sometimes on very scanty fare ; besides 
which, they generally dwell in miserable log huts, incapable 
of defending them effectually from the severity of the weather. 
Those who have the means of living better are great eaters of 
animal food, which is introduced at every meal; together with 
a variety of hot cakes, and a profusion of butter: all which 
may more or less tend to the introduction of bilious disorders, 
and perhaps lay the foundation of those diseases which prove 
fatal in hot climates. The effects of a luxurious or meagre 
diet are equally injurious to the constitution, and, together 
with the sudden and violent changes of the climate, may create 
a series of nervous complaints, consumption, and debility, 
which in the states bordering on the Atlantic carry off" at least 
one-third of the inhabitants in the prime of life. 

The general mode of living for those who do not keep 
house, is at hotds, taverns, or private boarding-houses. There 
are generally two public apartments, one for a sitting, the other 
a dining room. The lady of the house presides ; the other 
ladies, who are boarders, being placed on her left. The hours 
are, — breakfast, eight o'clock ; dinner, half past three ; tea, 
seven ; supper, ten. American breakfasts are celebrated for 
their profusion ; presenting eggs, meat of various kinds, fish, 
and fowls. The charge is usually two dollars per diem, ex- 
clusive of wine. 

The Americans are much addicted to dissipation. Mecha- 
nics and tradesmen swallow daily an enormous quantity of 
spirits, so that a temperate man will, even in the morning, 
feel the smell of liquor emitted from almost every person he 
meets in the streets. Even in the country, peaches grow in 
such profusion that brandy is made at a small expence ; and 
as almost every house is furnished with a still, inebriation is 
very common. Those who can resist the temptations to in- 



UNITED STATES. 351 

temperance possess great advantages over their less prudent 
neighbours. 

Mr. Lambert gives the following account of dram-drinking, 
which he received from general Bradley. ' A gum-ticJcler is a 
gill of spirits, generally rum, taken fasting. J phlegm-cutter 
is a double dose just before breakfast. An antifogmatic is a 
similar dram before dinner. A gall-breaker is about half a 
pint of ardent spirits. When they enquire how such-a-one 
does, the answer is, "Oh, he h on\y dLVinkmg guvi-ticklcrs T 
If he is drinking phlegm-cutters, or anti/bgmatics, the case is 
not so good, and he is soon expected to get to gall-breakers ; 
but if he is drinking the latter, they consider him as a lost 
sheep, — say it is all over with him, — and pity his desperate 
case. Indeed, a man seldom lives above six months after he 
has commenced the gall-breaking dram ! Rum, brandy, or 
gin sling, is a common beverage for travellers through the 
States ; and the stage-coachmen, in the course of a journey, 
take " a special good quantity of it.'''' Sometimes it consists 
only of the liquor and water, sweetened with sugar, and drank 
cold ; bvit in general it is made of milk, with ginger or nutmeg 
grated into it.' 

Another traveller says, that in New York vast quantities of 
' Yankee"" rum are sold. ' All spirits,' he continues, *are com- 
monly drunk mixed with cold water, without sugar. The 
price per glass, at the dirtiest grog-shops, is two-pence, where 
the liquor is of the most inferior description. At the more 
respectable, for a superior quality three-pence halfpenny. At 
what are called taverns and porter-houses, establishments si- 
milar to our second-rate public houses, six-pence halfpenny. 
The size of the glass is half a gill. It is estimated that there 
are 1500 spirit-shops in this city ; a fact opposed to my first 
impressions of American habits, which, on the point of sobrie- 
ty, were favourable, judging from the absence of broils and of 
drunkard^ in the streets : but more attentive observation, aided 
by the information of old residents, enables me to state that 
the quantity of malt-liquor and spirits drunk by the inhabit- 
ants of New York, much exceeds the amount consumed by 
the same extent of Englbjh population. The beastly drun- 



852 VIEW OF THE 

kard is a character unknown here; yet but too many are 
throughout the day under the influence of hquor, or what is 
not inappropriately termed "half and half!" a state too pre- 
valent among the labouring classes and the negroes. Many 
date the source of this to the extremes of the climate. Ano- 
ther and a leading cause is, that numbers of the lower orders 
are European emigrants. They bring their habits with them. 
They are here better employed and better paid than they were 
in the country which gave them birth ; and they partake too 
largely of the infirmities of our nature to be provident during 
the sunshine of prosperity.'' 

Duels are very frequent throughout the States, and all at- 
tempts to prevent them have hitherto failed. At New York, 
a law was passed to prohibit the sending of challenges, and the 
fighting of duels, under severe penalties ; but it answered no 
other end than to produce a smart piece of satire on the sub- 
ject of duels. A shght provocation produces a challengCj and 
if the parties consider themselves of what is called 'equal 
standing,"" that is, of families and in worldly circumstances of 
equal respectfibility, they rarely decline the combat ; and the 
Americans being generally good shots, and as remarkable for 
their cool deliberation as, too frequently, for deadly malignity, 
it is seldom that both parties escape with life. 

The Americans are uncommonly jealous of their indepen- 
dence; and although this be a useful feeling, its excess is 
productive of very serious evils. In schools, no species of 
correction is allowed, subordination being, as foreign to the 
comprehension of the youth as to that of the aged. Servants 
also feel themselves independent of their employers. This 
may be attended with some advantages : it may please when 
contrasted with the degrading slavery of the European world ; 
but it is not free from serious and peculiar evils. It increases 
selfish feelings and pursuits ; it individualizes society, and 
prevents a developement of those social qualities which are of 
important benefit to, as well as the greatest ornament of our 
nature. 

Servants are usually engaged by the week. Enquiry as ta 
character is not practised Blacks and whites are seldom kept 



UNITED STATES. Q5B 

in the same house. In the middle and southern states they 
are chiefly blacks; and, though held in the most degraded 
estimation, do almost as they please. 

Servants are called ' helps f if you call them servants they 
leave you without notice. Englishmen often incur their dis- 
pleasure by negligence in continuing to use this prohibited 
word. ' The ditference, however,*' observes a recent writer, 
" would appear merely verbal ; for indeed I should misrepre- 
sent the impressions I have received on the subject, if 1 stated 
that the Americans reallu shewed more feelinir, or were more 
considerate in their conduct towards this class of society than 
the English : every one who knows them will, I think, pro- 
nounce the direct contrary to be the case. A friend of mine, 
the other dav, met with a rebuff at his hotel, which tauffht 
him the necessity of altering — not his ideas indeed, but his 
words. Addressing the female " help,"' lie said, " Be kind 
enough to tell your mistress that I should be glad to see her." 
" Mi' mistress. Sir! I tell you I have no uiistress, nor master 
either. I will not tell her, Sir, I guess ; if you want Mrs. 
M you may go to her yourself, I guess. I have no mis- 
tress, Sir. In this country there is no mistresses nor masters ; 
I guess I am a woman citizen." The term " boss" is substi- 
tuted for that of master : but these, I would remark, are not 
the only instances in this country of the alteration of names^ 
while things remain tlie same : indeed some very absurd, and 
even indelicate changes have been made which cannot well be 
(iionmiunicated on paper."" 

A traveller to whom we have frequently referred says, 
'When the vessel in which I sailed from England had anchored 
at New York, a boy procured us two hackney coaches, from 
a distance of about a quarter of a mile. I offered liim an 
English shilling, having no other small coin in my possession. 
He would not take so little ; " For as how I guess it is not of 
value. I have been slick in going to the stand right away." 
This was said with a tone of independence, whici), although 
displeasing to my pride, was not so to my judgment. Mr. 
Adams satisfied the young republican by giving him half-a- 
doUar, {9.s. ?jd.) There was no sense of having received a 

o Y 



354 VIEW OF THE 

favour in the boy's countenance or manner ; a trait of charac- 
ter which, I have since learned, is by no means confined to the 
youth of America. A simple "I thank you, Sir," would not, 
however, derogate from a free man's dignity ; but I must not 
be too fastidious. We should not expect every thing ; and, 
after all, even cold independence is preferable to warm servility. 
Another question, and one of leading importance, suggested 
itself to me on this occasion ; naraelv. Is not labour here well 
paid .'* A great number of people were on the wharf looking 
at us and our vessel. Many of them were of the labouring 
class. They were not better clothed than men in a similar 
condition in England ; but they were more erect in their pos- 
ture, less care-worn in their countenances ; the thought of 
" the morrow" did not seem to form a part of their ideas ; 
and among them there were no beggars. 

' Funerals are uniformly attended by large walking proces- 
sions. In the newspapers I have frequently observed adver- 
tisements stating the deaths, and inviting all friends to attend 
the burial. The dead are seldom kept more than two days. 
At the time appointed, intimate friends enter the house, others 
assemble outside, and full into the procession when the body is 
brought out. Sorrow d^)es not seem depicted in the counte- 
nances of any, but few wear mourning, and many smoke 
segars ; none appear chargeable with the hypocrisy described 
by the poet of " mocking sorrow with a heart not sad."' 

Fair complexions, regular features, and hne forms, seem 
to be the prevailing characteristics of the American fair sex. 
They do not, however, enjoy their beauty for so long a period 
as English women, neither do they possess the blooming coun- 
tenance and rosy tinge of health so predominant among our 
fair countrywomen, whose charms never stand in need of cos- 
metics. The beauty of the American women partakes more of 
the l\ly than the rose ; though the soft glow of the latter is 
sometimes to be met with. Their climate, however, is not so 
favourable to beauty as that of England, in consequence of 
the excessive heat and violent changes of the weather peculiar 
to America. 



UNITED STATES. S55 

Most travellers who have visited Ainerica have charged 
the ladies of the United States universally with having bad 
teeth. This accusation is certainly very erroneous when ap- 
plied to the whole of the fair sex, and to them alone. That 
the inhabitants of the States are often subject to a premature 
loss of teeth is allowed by themselves; and the cause has even 
been discussed in the papers read before the American Philo- 
sophical Society ; but it does not particularly attach to the 
females, who are much more exempt from that misfortune 
than the men. 

Dancing is an amusement that the ladies are passionately 
fond of; and many of them are well accomplished in music 
and drawing, which they practise with considerable success: 
but they do not excel in those acquirements, as they do in 
dancing. Among the young men these accomplishments are 
but little cultivated. 

Marriages are conducted in the most splendid style, and 
form an important part of the winter's entertainments. For 
some years it was the fashion to keep them only among a se- 
lect circle of friends ; but of late the opulent parents of the 
new-married lady have thrown open their doors, and invited 
the town to partake of their felicity. The young couple, at- 
tended by their nearest connexions and friends, are married 
at home in a magniticent style; and if tjie parties are episco- 
palians, a bishop is always procured, if possible ; as his pre- 
sence gives a greater zest to the nuptials, For three days 
after the marriage ceremony, the new-married couple see com- 
pany in great state, and every genteel person who can procure 
an introduction may pay h.is respects to the bride and bride- 
groom. It is a sort of levee; and the visitors, after their 
introduction, partake of a cup of coffee or other refreshments, 
and walk away. Sometimes the night concludes with a con- 
cert and ball, or cards, among those friends and acquaintance 
who are invited to remain. 

A late writer thinks that the ease with which the necessa- 
ries of life may be obtained, the want of social subordination, 
and the desire to be independent, conspire to produce some 
inconveniences in the married life. ' Early marriages,' says 



356 VIEW OF THE 

he, ' partly proceed perhaps from this state of things, though 
the great source of their frequency is certainly in conformity 
with a well-known theory, — the ease with which the necessa- 
ries of life can be obtained. Arguments are not wanting in 
favour of youthful matrimonial engagements; and, without 
considering the matter in an individual point of view, it cer- 
tainly contributes to the more rapid advancement of a country 
requiring population. Yet, strong as such reasons may be, 1 
should, if morally considered, hesitate in bearing my testimony 
to their solidity. The youth of twenty, and the female of 
fourteen, are ill fitted for the cares, anxieties, and education of 
a family : neither their bodily nor mental strength has attained 
maturity. Those days also which ought to be devoted to the 
acquirement of solid information, and to the improving, per- 
haps it may be said, to the creating the character, are necessa- 
rily devoted to other objects. The cares of life, under such 
circumstances, begin to press upon individuals who have not 
previously had time or opportunity to learn its duties. No 
provision has been made for the support of a rising family — to 
this therefore every other object will generally be sacrificed : 
by these vneans a sordid and calculating spirit is engendered — 
the more generous feelings of our natui'e acquire neither 
strength nor stability ; and every mental and ennobling pur- 
suit is abandoned with a view to the getting on in life. 

* The American female character requires our attention : in 
mental pui'suits it would appear to be at present but little ad- 
vanced. This proceeds no doubt from a variety of causes ; all 
that has been said of the male population, by a natui'al re-ac- 
tion affecting the femall? also. The demand, too, (if I may be 
excused a mercantile phrase u])on such a subject,) exceeding 
the supply, together with the comparatively less value set 
upon domestic c(mi(i;)rt, may pcriiaps have tended to produce 
the extreme attention to mere personal ornament, and the uni- 
versal neo-Iect of either mental or domestic knowiedoe, which 
appears to exist among the females here, as compared with 
those of England.' 

In the article of cleanliness the American ladies are certainly 
inferior to Europeans, which may perhaps be owing, not so 



UNITED STATES. 357 

much to the mixture of people from different nations, as to 
the want of authority over servants, with the laziness in vvhich 
domestics indulge who set a high value on their services. An 
Englishman thus describes an American boardine-house : — 

' After a residence of three days at the hotel, I removed to 
a private boarding-house, in one of the bed-rooms of which I 
am now writing. The dining-room of this establishment is 
genteel ; but the other apartments, and more particularly the 
kitchen, are of a kind not much to excite admiration. I per- 
ceived here what — unpleasant as may be the discovery, I 
think I have observed elsewhere, and — worse still, what I fear 
pervades this new world, an affectation of splendour, or what 
may be called styJe^ in those things which are intended to meet 
the public eye ; with a lamentable want even of cleanliness in 
such matters as are removed Jrom that ordeal. To this may 
be added, an appearance of uncomfortable extravagance, and 
m ignorance of that kind of order and neatness which consti- 
tute, in the sight of those who have once enjoyed it, the prin- 
cipal charm of domestic life. I should rejoice to find myself 
n an error in this judgment; but all I have seen myself, and 
ill I have collected from the observation of others most com- 
petent to form a correct opinion, tend to its confirmation. 

'Last evening I drank tea at a genteel private house, 
rhe furniture was splendid, the table profusely supplied, be- 
ng loaded with fish, dried beef, and sausages ; the bread and 
jutter \vas roughly cut in huge hunks piled zig-zag. The 
jhildren's faces were dirty, their hair uncombed, their disposi- 
ions evidently untaught, and all the members of the family, 
rom the boy of six years of age up to the owner (I was going 
o say master) of the house, appeared independent of each 
)ther. I have seen the same characteristics in other families 
—in some indeed decidedly the contrary ; but these latter 
vould seem to be the exceptions, and the former the general 
ule; 

The women in sea-port towns dress very gay, and rather in 
he French style ; but from the high wages paid for labour, 
md the speculating habits of the merchants, they do not feel 
he neces.sity of being industrious equally with Enghshwomen. 



3^58 VIEW OF THE 

On the contrary, they are in general idle and careless ; and 
the practice of snuff-taking, and even the disgusting one of 
chewing tobacco, which is practised by many of the poorer 
sort, render them objects of aversion to strangers accustomed 
to the neatness and delicacy of female manners. They also 
evince a share of that freedom of expression and conduct prac- 
tised by the men ; but which in England would be condenmed 
as extremely gross and improper. This remark will be par- 
tially illustrated b}' the following advertisement, extracted 
from the ' Kentucky Reporter/ published at Lexington. 

'TAKE NOTICE, 
'And beware of the swindler JESSE DOUGflERTY, who mar- 
ried me in November last, and .some time after marriage informed 
me that he had another wife alive and before I recovered, the vil- 
lain left me, and took one of my best horses — one of my neighbours 
■was so good as to follow liim and take the horse from him, and 
bring him back. The said Dougherty is about forty years of age, 
five feet ten inches high, round-shovddered, thick lips, complexion 
and hair dark, grey eyes, remarkably ugly and ill-natured, and 
very fond of ardent spirits, and by profession a notorious liar. This 
is therefore to Avarn all widows to beware of the swindler, as all he 
wants is their property, and they may go to the devil for him after 
he gets that. Also, all persons are forewarned from trading with 
the said Dougherty, with the expectation of receiving pay from my 
property, as I consider the marriage conti*act null and void agreea- 
bly to law : you will therefore pay no attention to any lies he may 
tell you of his property in this county. The said Dougherty has 
a mmnber of wives living, perhaps eight or ten, (the number not 
positively known,) and will no doubt, if b.e can get them, have 
eight or ten more. I believe that is the way he makes his living. 

'MARY DODD.^ 
'Livingston county, Ky. Sept. 5, 18 3 7.— 38 at (ch. W. G.)' 

The Americans are evidently destined to become a powerliil 
people, and to exercise a great iniluence over the councils of 
Europe. The perception of their growing strength and im- 
portance generates a high degree of national vanity, which 
blazes out on all occasions, in their conversation, newspapers, 
pamphlets, speeches, and books. They assume it as a self- 



UNITED STATES. 359 

evident fact, that they surpass all other nations in virtue, 
wisdom, valour, liberty, government, and every other excel- 
lence. Europeans they despise, as ignorant paupers and das- 
tardly slaves. On this subject a recent writer thus expresses 
himself: — 

' There are perhaps no people, not even excepting the 
French, who are so vain as the Americans ; their self-estima- 
tion and cool-headed bombast, when speaking of themselves or 
their country, are quite ludicrous. An anecdote is told of 
general Morcau, who, at the commencement of the late war' 
with England, was in America: a friend, addressing him, ob- 
served that his military talents would be of essential service to 
the republic. He replied in the negative ; adding, that there 
was not a druanmer in the American army who did not think 
himself equal to general Moreau. This fact will apply to all 
oc<;upations with an equal degree of faithfulness. Every man 
here thinks he has arrivetl at the acme of perfection ; the me- 
chanics themselves possess the same feeling. When at Nevvark, 
I was informed that some choice designs in chair-japanning 
and coach-plating were lately produced by two emigrants; the 
natives turned upon their heels, "Ay, they guessed them ""ere 
were fashions they had left off." Every American considers 
that it is impossible for a foreigner to teach him any thing, and 
that his head contains a perfect encyclopaedia. This excessive 
inflation of mind must be attended with many disadvantages; 
though when I look at the various causes which have com- 
bined to produce it, I am not much surprised at its existence. 
As a people, they feel that they have got to gain a character, 
and, like individuals under similar circumstances, are captioiis 
and conceited in proportion to their defects. They appe€«' to 
aim at a standard of high reputation, without the laborious 
task of deserving it, and practise upon themselves the self-de- 
oeption of believing that they really are that which they only 
wish to \ie. This feeling has not been lessened by their suc- 
cesses in the late e owtoat - Avith Great Britain; for, although in 
several engagements on our favourite element they had an 
overwhelming superiority, yet there were instances when that 
was not the case; and the defeat of English frigates, with 



360 VIEW OF THE 

even any disparity of force, was too great an honour to be es- 
timated exactly as it merited. The boasting upon this subject 
is so extravagant that it burlesques the object of its praise. 
" America is now the ruler of the waves ;"" and every song and 
joke, fact and falsehood, that we have bestowed upon our tars, 
are transferred to the " Star-spangled banner, and the brave 
sons of Columbia," with the characteristic fidelity of a national 
intellect, rendered barren for want of culture." 

The tyrannical conduct of the British government in naval 
aft'airs, their system of impressment and of flogging, and the 
absurd and insolent claim of the right of search, might Avell, 
particularly the last, have exasperated the American nation, 
and more especially her seamen ; still the Americans are de- 
serving of great honour for what they really achieved. School- 
boys in the art of war, they were yet better prepared for it, 
and evinced more practical dexterity, than our hoary-headed 
practitioners. But with tliis limited degree of praise they are 
not content ; they are, forsooth, ' the lords of the ocean !** 
' Neptune's choicest sons I"" ' Victorious, though the English 
had great superiority of foi'ce !' ' The star-spangled banner is 
the astonishment, the admiration, and the glory of the world !' 
— with volumes more of such frothy, senseless bombast. 

Other causes of their great national pride and vanity sug- 
gest themselves to the mind. One may consist in their beuig 
so far from the seat of the arts and sciences, that their acquire- 
ments are not tried by the only effectual standard — comparison. 
They are left in undisputed possession of the belief that in- 
fancy is manhood ; that puerility is superiority ; and that me- 
diocrity is first-rate talent. They have a political republic 
within themselves ; but they send scarcely one representative 
to the general republic of letters. European writers too, who 
have never actually visited America, taking their ideas of the 
inliabitants, their manners and institutions, from the laws and 
political constitution of the country, have frequently been pro- 
fuse in their eulogies. • Speculating emigrants, from inte- 
rested motives, have followed in the same track. American 
authors, in the sincerity of their hearts, have re-echoed these 
praises; and they would be more than human, were they not 



UNITED STATES. 361- 

injured by this powerful combination against their national 
improvement. 

The old governments of Eui'ope are careful to foster a spirit 
of national vanity, as an auxiliary to their schemes of war and 
aggrandizement; and perhaps there are few stronger symp- 
toms of the increase of knowledge in England, than the weak- 
ened feeling of enmity towards the French people. It is much 
to be regretted that circumstances should have so powerfully 
conspired to engender such a ridiculous and pernicious vice 
amongst the Americans. 

From this source arises also a dislike to strangers.^ This 
feeling is very general in America ; and, however unpleasant 
this remark may be to those who have formed a false estimate 
of the American character from the lying reports of interested 
individuals, it is our duty to exhibit things as they are, and to 
disregard the clamours of those who think that a degree of 
moral excellence exists in the United States utterly incompa- 
tible with the circumstances of the people. Mr. Birkbeck 
says, ' National antipathies are the result of bad political insti- 
tutions, and not of human nature. Here, whatever their ori- 
ginal, whether English, Scotch, Irish, German, French, all are 
Americans ; and of all the unfavourable imputations on the 
American character, jealousy of strangers is surely the most 
absurd and groundless. The Americans are sufficiently alive 
to their own interest, but they wish well to strangers, and are 
not always satisfied with wishing, if they can promote their 
interest by active services.' 

Now, opposed to the authoi'ity of this popular writer, we 
will offer an address, unanimously voted in 1809, at a meeting 
in New York of 500 adopted citizens, from which the follow- 
in£c are extracts : — 



'At a respectable meeting, consisting of about five hundred Adopted 
Republican Citizens of the city of New York, held at Lyon's 
Hotel, Mott-Street, — yir. Archibald Taylor being unanimously 
called to the chair, and Dr. Stephen Dempsry appointed secretary, 
the subjoined address was unanimously adopted, a)id ordered to 
he publisher!. 

16 9 Z 



362 VIEW OF THE 

' To the Adopted Republican Citizens of the citij of New York. 
' Fellow Citizens, 

' A long train of disagreeable circumstances have called us toge- 
ther, and induced us to address you on a subject which, for years, 
we have acately felt and deeply deplored. Some of youj groaning 
under oppression in your native land, have voluntarily emigrated 
from it, whilst others, more afflicted by despotism, and less favoured 
by propitious events, find yourselves in the condition of involuntary 
exile. All, however, have chosen, as a resting-place in the journey 
through life, this " asylum for the oppressed of all nations." Here, 
perhaps, mistaking the character of human nature, we pleasingly 
anticipated, fi'ora those who avow themselves the friends of freedom, 
exemption from that religious persecution and civil tyranny, whose 
inexorable I'eign had forced us from our native country. Alas! 
how greatly were we mistaken ! how egregioushj have we been disap- 
pointed ! Our constitutions and gooernmejits are indeed free, but be- 
tween these admirable institutions and ourselves a tyranny is intervened 
7nuch less tolerable than that from which we Jled We have made 
permanent settlements in the land of our forefathers ; we admire 
and we are attached to our republican institutions ; we have com- 
plied with the injunctions of the constitutions and the laws, and we 
will support them upon equal terms, with our lives aiid our for- 
tunes. But how are we treated ? What has been our reception ? 
Has good faith been observed? Have the promises been performed? 
Are not we, who are citizens by all the solemnities and obligations of 
law, treated as aliens — stigmatized as foreigners ? We complain not 
of the constitutions and the laws ; they are liberal in principle and 
benign in operation. They enjoin an abjuration of foi-mer allegi- 
ance ; have we not with alacrity complied with the injtmction ? 
They require an oath of fidelity to the Union and to the States : 
devoted in spirit and in truth to both, we have eagerly taken it. 
What more is required .^ What more can be expected ? The laws 
require no more. Shall an under-plot, a counter opera/ion, indivi- 
dual Jealousy, and pale-faced cabal, fro7V7ied upon by the very elements 
of the state, subvert the law — put it at defiance — trample if under 
foot ? The law places upon the same undistinguishable level, the 
citizen of native and the citizen of foreign birtii. Are we to be 
told, in this enlightened age, that the law is not to govern ; that 
the essence of a well-ordered society is not a government of laws, 
but a government of the worst passions } Go back then to a state 
of anarchy ; tear out the bowels of society ; revert to the rude con- 



UNITED STATES. 363 

dition of untutored nature, and let the strongest govern. We have 
never ceased to cherish and to inculcate those opinions which are 
most consonant to the civil and sociiil state. We have remonstrated 
.'■gainst distinctions, at once impolitic and unjust, between native and 
adopted citizens ; but have not our remonstrances and efforts been 
in vain ? No zeal, no exertions, no services, however disiiiterested, 
unremitted, or great, have been sufficient to shield us from an epi- 
thet which, while it poisons the social and impairs the enjoyment 
of political life, must ultimately terminate in the ruin of the repub- 
lican party in this city. Alas ! has our republic turned upon itself, 
and in the short period of a few years from the adoption of the 
constitution ?' 

' Resolved unanimously, that 500 copies of the above address 
and resolution be printed in hand-bills, for the benefit of our fel- 
low republican and adopted citizens. 

'ARCHIBALD TAYLOR, Chairman. 
'S. DEMPSEY, Secretary.' 

Nothing can excite in the mind of an emigrant such surprise 
and indignation as this ridiculous and selfish antipathy to 
strangers, which must originate in the most contracted views. 
Liberal uiinded men must, in America as in other countries, 
be above such prejudices; but we here speak of the general 
sentiment. Some excuse, however, may in this case be made 
for tlie Americans, as many strangers join their community 
chiefly to escape the consequences of their dishonesty in their 
native land : but the national dislike to strangers is shewn in 
instances where this cannot possibly be admitted as an excuse. 

The celebrated Mr. Emmett, notwithstanding his high re- 
putation at the American bar, is often mentioned with con- 
tempt, as being a foreigner. A similar accusation was 
brought against the amiable general Hamilton ; and such ' 
■sentiments are always rapturously applauded in the public 
forum of New York, where young men of talent exercise their 
oratorical powers. 

In all infant colonies, each individual is so dependent upon 
his neighbour, that self-interest breaks down minor feelings ; 
but in old settled parts, this check does not operate. Hence it 
is that in Pennsylvania there exists between the Americans of 



66i' VIEW OF THE 

Irish and of German extraction the most deadly animosity. 
In the mind of a German American, the term ' Irishman' is 
one of the most foul reproaches with which the range of his 
ideas supplies him. Indeed, Irishmen, as well as Dutchmen, 
are very generally despised ; and it is a high offence to insi- 
nuate to an American that he is not of English descent. Yet 
his jealousy of Englishmen is as great as his contempt for the 
natives of other countries. Some travellers, possessing a name 
and property, have met with a liberal reception, and have not 
therefore noticed this trait in the American character ; for in 
no country are riches more sought after and esteemed than in 
America. 

The Americans are very covetous of the few titles which are 
allowed by the laws. In Massachusetts a vote is peculiarly 
valuable, because an office there makes a man hcmourahle du- 
ring life. This and other titles are always ostentatiously pub- 
lished. But man is the same in all countries. The following 
extract from the ' Boston Sentinel,'' of August 27th, 1817, 
will illustrate tliis idea. 

' Dinner to Mr. Adams. — Yesterday a public dinner was given to 
the Hon. John Q. Adams, in tlie Exchange coffee-house^ by his 
fellow-citizens of Boston. The Hon. Wm. Gray presided, assisted 
by the Hon. Harrison Gray Otis, Geor<Te Blake, Esq. and the Hon. 
Jonathan Mason, vice-presidents. Of the guests were, the Hon. 
Mr. Adams, late president of the United States, his ExccUency Go- 
vernor Brooks, his Honour Lt. Gov. Phillips, Chief Justice Parker, 

fudge Story, President Kirkland, Gen. Dearborn, Com. Hull, Gen. 
Miller, several of the reverend clergy, and many public officers, 

ind strangers of eminence.' 

Negro slavery has spread its baleful Influence over a great 
])art of the Union. Some writers, particularly Englishmen, 
who would wish to represent the states as a second Arcadia, 
have offered an apology for this detestable practice, by con- 
tending that it formed di part of the policy of the colonial sys- 
tem : but this excuse does not apply to the new states ; for the 
congress has resigned the inhabitants of these vast regions as 
victims of its demoralizing effects. The native Indians present. 



UNITED STATES. 865 

of course, nothing but a picture of mere savage life ; and the 
poor negroes suffer even more than commonly falls to the lot 
of their oppressed and degraded condition. What a foul stain 
upon the republic, professing, as it does, the principles of 
liberty and equal rights, that, out of twenty states, there 
should be eleven in which slavery is an avowed part of their 
political constitution ; and that in those called free (New Eng- 
land excepted) the condition of blacks should practically 
amount to slavery ! Like the Greeks of old, they talk of free- 
dom, while the degraded Helot is within their doors. 

Upwards of one million seven hundred thousand negi-oes are 
still held as slaves in the United States ; for, though slavery 
has been abolished by a law of the general government in 1803, 
and also by most of the eastern and middle states, yet that 
' broadest foulest blot' upon a nation professing Christianity, 
is still tolerated, and prevails over a very large portion of 
the Union ; corrupting and debavsing the public morals, and 
communicating its depraving influence to both the slave and 
his master. Besides the negroes, there are upwards of 200,000 
free people of colour ; both these classes, however, acquire oc- 
casionally an admixture of the blood of the white population, 
and the mestizos are gaining fast in number upon the blacks. 
The gi'eat body of slaves are to be found in the southern states. 

The experience of all history proves that the structure of 
society in slave-holding countries is unfavourable to internal 
peace at all times, and still more so to security and strength in 
the season of foreign warfare. Besides, a slave is ignorant of 
the very elements of industri/, which is the basis of all social 
prosperity. While in bondage he only obeys the impulse of 
another's will, he is actuated by v.o other motive but the dread 
of the lash; whereas, when made. free, he must think, plan, 
provide for himself and family, and perform all the duties of a 
citizen. It is necessary to make a slave a man, before he is 
made a free man. The slave, recently liberated, has expe- 
rienced only the most laborious and disagreeable of the occu- 
pations of a citizen ; and not having learned any forecast, is 
unwilling to toil when free. The emancipated negroes of 
Massachusetts prove, that such an order of beings have not 



866 VIEW OF THE 

the capacity to avail themselves of the benefits of civil liberty. 
For in that state, where slavery is abolished by law, and which 
consequently opens an asylum to fugitive slaves from the 
neighbouring states, the negroes do not keep up their stock of 
population, by the help both of native breeding and runaway 
importation ; so improvident, so helpless, and so deficient in 
all those habits of steady and useful industry, which are essen- 
tially necessary to obtain a competent support for themselves 
and a growing family, have they been rendered by a long con- 
tinuance in slavery. 

The treatment of the negroes throughout the slave states is 
as villainous as can be well imagined ; and although they are 
themselves not insensible to the evils of their condition, they 
do not seem to feel it so acutely as might be anticipated, or as 
the man of common humanity would feel on their account. 
This, however, is natural enough, and easy to account for. 
As the body is enslaved, the mind becomes degraded, and loses 
a sense of its own dignity, and of the value of independence. 

A distinguished writer has most justly observed, that 'if 
there be an object truly ridiculous in nature, it is an American 
patriot, signing resolutions of independence with one hand, 
and with the other brar.dishing a whip over his affrighted 
slave.'' Even in Cincinnati, people retain slaves in violation of 
the spirit of the Ohio constitution, by first purchasing them, 
and then binding them as aj)prcntices. Some are so base as to 
take these negroes down the river at the approach of the expi- 
ration of their apprenticeship, and sell them at Natchez for life I 

An English traveller, seeing above thirty boats and keels 
pass down the Mississippi at Natchez, says, ' A great many 
coloured people, particularly females, being in these boats, I 
concluded that they were emigrants, who had proceeded thus 
far on their route towards a settlement. The fact proved to 
be that fourteen of the flats were freigiited with human beings 
for sale. They had been collected in the several states by 
slave-dealers, and shipped from Kentucky for a market. 
They were dressed up to the best advantage, on the same 
pnnciple that jockeys do horses upon sale. The following is 
a specimen of advertisement on this subject: — 



UNITED STATES. S67 

"TWENTY DOLLARS REWARD 

" Will be paid for apprehendin>r and lodging in jail, or delivering 
to the subscriber, the following slaves, belonging to JOSEPH 
IRVIN, of/6f^m7/e.•— 
"TOM, a very light Mulatto, blue eyes, 5 feet 10 inches high, 
appears to be about 35 years of age, an artful fellow — can read and 
write, and preaches occasionally. 

"CHARLOTTE, a black wench, round and full faced, tall, 
stri:ight, and likely — about 2;:> years of age, and wife of the above- 
named Tom. 

" These slaves decamped from their owner's plantation, on the 
night of the 14th September inst. 

"WILLIAM KENNER & Co."* 

But perhaps the estimation in whicli the unfortunate ne- 
groes are held by the free-born Americans, will be best illus- 
trated by the following official document, published at New 
Orleans. 

'CITY COUNCIL OF NEW ORLEANS. 

'An ordmancc in relation lo slaves in the citjf and suburbs of New 
Orleans, as also in the neighbourhood thereof, a?id to no other per- 
sons herein mentioned. 

' The city council ordains as follows; 
' Art. 1. No slave or slaves within the city and suburbs of New 
Orleans, and the neighbourhood thereof, shall have, hold, occupy, 
reside or sleep in any house, out-house, building, or enclosure, 
other than his or her owner's, or his or her owner's representatives, 
or of the person whom he is or they are serving for hire, without 
first obtaining a ticket or tickets from his, her, or their owner or 
owners, expressly describing the place which such slave or slaves 
is or are allowed respectively to occu]\y, reside, or sleep in ; and 
specifying also the time during which the aforesaid permission or 
permissions is or are granted ; and every slave, holding, occupying, 
residing or sleeping in any house, out-house, building, or enclosure, 
without obtaining the permission aforesaid, shall be committed to 
the jail by any officer of police, or any other white person, there to 
receive twenty lashes, on a warrant from the mayor, or from a jus- 
tice of the peace, unless the owner or owners of such slaves shall ' 
previously pay a fine of Jive dollars for each of them, with all costs 
and charges. 



368 VIEW OF THE 

' Art. 6. The assemblies of slaves for the purpose of dancing or 
other merriment, shall take place only on Sundays, and solely in 
such open or public places as shall be appointed by the mayor ; and 
no such assembly shall continue later than sunset ; and all slaves 
who shall be found assembled together on any other day than Sun- 
day, or who, even on that day, shall continue their dances after 
sunset, shall be taken up by the officers of police, constables, 
watchmen, or other white persons, and shall be lodged in the pub- 
lic jail, where they shall receive from 10 to 25 lashes, on a wariant 
from the mayor or a justice of the peace ; the clauses specified in 
the preceding article against all owners or occupants of houses or 
lots, forming or tolerating such assemblies on their premises, being 
in full force against them. 

' Art. 7- No person giving a ball to free people of colour shall, on 
any pretext, admit or suffer to be admitted to said ball any slave, on 
penalty of a fine from 10 to 50 dollars ; and any slave admitted to 
any such ball shall receive 15 lashes. 

' Art. 8. Every slave, except such as may be blind or infirm, 
who shall walk in any street or open place with a cane, club, or 
other stick, shall be carried to the police jail, where he shall receive 
25 lashes, and shall moreover forfeit every such cane, club, or other 
stick, to any white person seizing the same ; and every slave car- 
rying any arms whatever, shall be punished in the manner pre- 
scribed by the Black Code of this state. 

' Art. p. If any slave shall be guilty of whooping or hallooing 
any where in the city and suburbs, or of making any clamorous 
noise, or of singing aloud any indecent song, he or she shall, for 
each and every such offence, receive at the police jail, on a warrant 
from the mayor, or any justice of the peace, a number of 20 lashes 
or stripes; and if any such oifence be committed on board any 
vessel, the master or commander thereof shall forfeit and pay a 
sum of 20 dollars for every such offence. 

'Art. 10. Every slave who shall be guilty of disrespect towards 
any white person, or shall insult any free person, shall receive 30 
lashes, upon an order from the mayor, or justice of the peace. 

' Art. 13. The present ordinance shall be printed in the usual 
gazettes, and shall moreover be published by drum-beat, within 
the city and suburbs, twice every week during fifteen days, and 
once every month after that time. 

* Approved, October 15th, 1817. ' .7. SOULIE, Recorder 

^Nov. .■?. AUG. MACARTY, Mavor 



UNITED STATES. 369 

What points out very forcibly the degrading effects of sla- 
very upon the mind is, that the Americans, even in worship- 
ping the common Father of all, refuse to permit the approach 
of coloured people. They are obliged to have churches of 
their own. In Philadelphia, ' the three " African churches,'" 
as they are called, are for all those native Americans who are 
black, or have any shade of colour darker than white. These 
persons, though many of them are possessed of the rights of 
citizenship, are not admitted into the churches which are visit- 
ed by whites. There exists a penal law, deeply written in the 
minds of the whole white population, which subjects their co- 
loured fellow-citizens to unconditional contumelv and never- 
ceasing insult. No respectability, however unquestionable — no 
property, however large — no character, however unblemished 
— will gain a man, whose body is (in American estimation) 
cursed with even a twentieth portion of the blood of his Afri- 
can ancestry, admission into society ! ! ! They ai'e considered 
as mere Pariahs — as outcasts and vagrants upon the face of 
the earth !' 

The diversity of laws in separate states, by which acts con- 
sidered as a crime in one part are not punishable in another, 
and also many confused impressions of right and \Vrong, gene- 
rate much evil, while the state of the bankrupt laws, and an 
immense and complicated paper currency, are universal and 
increasing evils ; each of these having opened an extensive 
field to the calculations of avidity and the speculations of the 
dishonest. The list of insolvencies is enormous. Failure in 
trade, so far from being a cause of loss, or a subject of shame, 
is generally the means of securing a fortune ; and so callous 
upon this subject has the public mind become, that no kind of 
disadvantage or disgrace attaches to the individual, who takes, 
therefore, little pains to disguise the source of his wealth. 

Although pauperism has not arrived at English maturity, 
nor does it often attract the public eye, yet it does exist, and 
that to a great extent, which may be seen in governor Clinton's 
most able address to the New York legislature. He there re- 
marks, ' Our statutes relating to the poor are borrowed from 
the English system. And the experience of that country, as 

3 A 



370 VIEW OF THE 

well as our own, shows that pauperism increases with the aug- 
mentation of the funds applied to its relief. This evil has 
proceeded to such an alarming extent in the city of New York, 
that the burdens of heavy taxation which it has imposed, me- 
nace a din)inution of the population of that city, and a depre- 
ciation of its real property. The consequences will be very 
injurious to the whole state ; for the decay of our great market 
will be felt in every department of productive labour. Under 
the present system the fruits of industry are appropriated to 
the wants of idleness ; a laborious poor man is taxed for the 
support of an idle beggar ; and the voice of mendicity, no 
longer considered degrading, infects a considerable portion of 
our population in large towns. I am persuaded that the 
sooner a radical reform takes place, the better. The evil is 
contagious, and a prompt extirpation can alone prevent its 
pernicious extension.' 

To pauperism may be added lotteries, which are nume- 
rous in all the states ; and in many the English exploded ini- 
quity of insurance, and ^little goes^ exist in full operation. 
To such an extent is this scandalous mode of gaming carried, 
that one traveller mentions a lottery, when he was in the Illi- 
nois, for building a presbyterian church ! The ' scheme' was 
preceded by a long address upon the advantages of religion, 
and the necessity of supporting Christianity by purchasing- 
tickets in this lottery ! 

All these drawbacks upon the general character of the Ame- 
ricans are the natural result of the materials of which they are 
composed. The first civilized population of the States were 
emigrants from the several European nations, particularly 
England ; the most respectable class of which were those who 
fled from religious persecution ; no inconsiderable number of 
transports ; and the rest were, as emigrants ever are, — the 
most enterprising, the most needy, but by no mccins the most 
intelligent of their native country. Such then were the seeds 
of American society ; let us look at the circumstances in which 
these men were placed ; in a country where civilization had 
made no progress ; where every man, both in mind and body, 
was fully occupied in obtaining the bare means of subsistence ;» 



UNITED STATES. 371 

and where their relative sitviation towards the natives of the 
soil was calculated to deaden every just, benevolent, and hu- 
mane sentiment. As society advanced, indeed, the whole po- 
pulation no longer remained ' hewers of wood and drawers of 
water.* Classification commenced; but still those whose views, 
means, oi- habits could be mental, were extremely limited in 
number. They left Europe at a dark period, not themselves 
the finest specimens of the national picture ; even those 
amongst them who had leisure for literary objects, met with 
obstacles at every step — the want of books, the want of so- 
ciety, and of conmiunication with learned individuals or of 
scientific bodies. There was besides no history attached to 
their country ; they lived indeed in a new world, ' which was 
endeared to them by no recollections, and which could neither 
excite nor gratify their curiosity, by the records of the past.' 
The first accessions of strength from the ^old country^'' fur- 
nished little besides an increase of the manual labour. The 
colonial government introduced some men of information : 
public education was attended to ; riches increas^ed ; the slave- 
trade was encouraged; negroes were introduced in every 
American colony ; the extermination of Indians went on, the 
invaders gradually seizing on their country. Literature was 
now in some respects advancing, though the colonists depended 
for their mental as well as bodily clothing upon the mother 
country ; English, Dutch, Irish, Scotch, Germans, and their 
several descendants, were becoming to speak one language, 
and have one common interest. They were, as colonists ever 
and necessarily are, inferior to the parent country in the first 
class of its intelligence, but above its grosser ignorance. So- 
ciety had at this time acquired stability. The Revolution now 
took place. This struggle, chiefly in consequence of Paine"'s 
* Commtm Sense,' terminated in a ' Declaration of Indepen- 
dence.'' The friends of liberty in Europe now crossed the 
Atlantic to fan their darlin'j flame. Others also emigrated of 
a more dubious cliaracter : America became the receptacle for 
speculators and fortune-hunters, for adventurers and base and 
demoralized characters of every shi»dc and description. The 
peaceful pursuits of agriculture were exchanged for those of 



SV^ VIEW OF THE 

the sword ; society was shifted from its base, and every thing 
became disorganized. Peace was at length proclaimed, but it 
failed to bring with it those halcyon days, of which the olive- 
branch is generally considered the precursor, America was 
now a chaos, bankrupt alike, it was feared, in morals and in 
finances ; and it required all the coolness and ability of Wash- 
ington to preserve the public peace. A reversion of the prin- 
ciples of the federal union seemed to become necessary, in 
order to increase the powers of government. This question 
gave rise to two parties, who still foster in their breasts the 
most implacable hatred. Those v;lio advocated a reversion of 
the constitution took the name of Federalists, and their oppo- 
nents that of Democrats. 

America, ii) the mean time, in her political capacity, was 
making rapid advances towards taking her standing as a first- 
rate power. Hef internal resources were boundless; her 
geographical situation secured her from attack during the 
weakness, as it were, of infancy ; her population went on in- 
creasing in a ratio not paralleled in modern times, but easily 
to be accounted for upon well-known principles of political 
economy. At this time it was that the disturbed state of Eu- 
rope threw into lier hands the carrying trade of the world, 
and enabled her to erect a mei-cantile marine, only second to 
that of Great Britain. This unexpected, and unprepared^or 
influx of wealth, demoralized, while it enriched ; with the peo- 
ple, there was no preparation, no pupillage, no gradation, no 
step from the primitive log-house to the splendour of the pa- 
lace. European luxury and vice, unadorned by European 
knowledge, and not ameliorated by European habits of refine- 
ment, rapidly overspread the land, and produced their natural 
and unavoidable consequences. The pursuits of the whole 
people assumed also a hazardous and specidairve cast; oppor- 
tunities for indulging which were constantly presented by the 
disturbed state of European commerce, and by their own vast 
unpeopled continent. The means of living were in the hands 
of every man, with the occupation of but one-fourth pait of 
bis time. They were in possession of political and domestic 
ease, the sources, or the value of which, their want of reflectiou 



UNITED STATES. 373 

prevented them from estimating; and having at once the 
means, the time, and the opportunity of gi'atifying their pas- 
sions, or indulging their indolence, they have not pursued 
learning bevond their school-books. Thus, neglecting to en- 
courage any pursuits, either individually or collectively, which 
may be called mental, they appear, as a nation, to have sunk 
into habits of indolence and indifference; they are neither 
lively in their tempers, nor generous in their dispositions. 

Looking fairly therefore at all these circumstances, we 
ought not to be surprised to find that American theory is at 
least txvo centuries in advance of American practice. We 
have usually connected with our ideas of republicanism and 
unpolished manners, a simpUcity and honesty of mind which 
more than compensate for all minor defects. That we should 
not meet with even an approach to these characteristics in 
America is by no means extraordinary, when we reflect upon 
their origin and the materials from which their present charac- 
ter is derived. 

Upon the whole, it will be seen that the Americans are not 
possessed of a superior degree of intelligence and moral feel- 
ing. With regard to information, men are almost upon a 
dead level, that o;radation of intellect which exists in England 
being unknown. The American labourers possess more intel- 
ligence than those of the same class in England; but the mid- 
dle ranks fall short, from the causes before mentioned, of our 
standard. 

What is here said relative to the character of the inhabitants 
of America, does not apply to the circumstances of the coun- 
try. As to America generally, it possesses some most im- 
portant advantages, among which are to be enumerated, an 
extensive and, in parts, a very fertile country — a population 
not filled up — and, above all, a reasonable and a cheap go- 
vernment. These give to the poor man a recompense for his 
labour proportionate to his deserts : they also open numerous 
sources for the valuable employment of capital ; and they give 
a solid satisfaction, as to the future, in the mind of a man of 
family or of property, which it is impossible to derive from a 



374 VIEW OF THE 

contemplation of the present condition, and tiie present policy, 
of any of the old governments. 

In forming an estimate of the American character, it is ne- 
cessarv to take into the account the prejudice and the interests 
of those who have undertaken to enlighten us on the subject. 
Some emigrants, in order to increase the population in their 
neighbourhood, and consequently the value of their property ; 
and others from a deep-rooted dislike to the governments un- 
der which tliey have suffered, describe America as a political 
elysium, and its inhabitants as exempt from the failings and 
vices that they imported from Europe. Others again, in tra- 
velling through the States, exclaim that all is barren. An in- 
telligent traveller met an Englishnian in New England. ' My 
fellovv-countryman,'' says he, ' was so full of tlie importance 
and superiority of England, that any thing American did not» 
in his eyes, seem worthy of notice. A man passed us on 
horseback without bowing or speaking ; mij friend exclaimed, 
*' There, you see they have neither manners nor common sense 
in this country ; if we were in England, you know, and a man 
passed the stage, he would bow and say, How do you do T"" 
To this gentleman the old story was strictly applicable of two 
Englishmen and an American travelling in a stage from Boston. 
They indulged their patriotism by abusing every thing Ame- 
rican. The butter was not so good as the English — nor the 
beef — nor the mutton — nor the peaches — nor the laws — nor 
the people — nor the climate — nor the country. Their fellow- 
traveller was displeased, but he remained silent. At length 
there came on a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning. 

He then burst forth, boiling with rage, " There, d you ! 

I guess that that thunder and lightning is as good as any you 
have in England."" "" 

RELIGION. 

An estimate has been lately made of the proportion of 
churches and clergymen to the population, by the rev. Mr. 
Beecher, in his Address to the Charitable Society for the edu- 



UNITED STATES. 375 

cation of pious young men for the ministry of the gospel. 
This author proceeds on the assumption that there should be 
a regular pastor for every 150 families or 1000 souls. The 
present ratio in the New England states is one to every 1500 
persons. In Great Britain and Ireland, the proportion of 
ministers to the number of souls is found to be one to every 
800 or 900. An American population of eight millions would, 
of course, i-eqnire 8000 ministers; but the whole number of 
regular well educated ministers does not exceed 8000. In 
New York, the actual number of pastors is about 500, the 
population of a million would require double this number. la 
New Jersey, there is a deficiency of at least 50 pastors. In 
Pennsylvania and Delaware the deficiency is very considerable. 
Virginia, with a population of 974,000, has but 60 regular 
ministers, consequently, 914,000 persons are without adequate 
religious instruction. The situation of Maryland is similar to 
that of Virginia. 

With respect to the state of religion in Ohio, Kentucky, 
and Tennessee, no accurate information was obtained. North 
Carolina, vvith a population of 555,500, which would require 
550 clergymen, has but 20. South Carolina, with a popula- 
tion of 415,000, has but 36 ministers. Georgia has but ten 
clergymen. 

Mr. Beecher's enumeration, it is to be observed, includes 
only regularly educated clergymen ; but there are, besides, a 
number of itinerant pieachers in the United States, and many 
persons among the different sects, who officiate occasionally as 
religious teachers, though they derive their subsistence from 
other professions. 

The same author informs us, that one-third of all ministers 
who receive a rej»:ular collegiate education in the United States, 
are educated at Harvard and Yale colleges. 

The highest clerical stipend in the United States is 5000 
dollars, with a dwelling-house, and the fees of marriage, which, 
though voluntary, are always liberal. The common salary of 
a respectable clergyman in New York, Philadelphia, and Bal- 
timore, is 2500 dollars; and the value of the house and fees 
varies from 300 to 500 dollars and upwards. In the country 



376 VIEW OF THE 

the stipend is much lower. In the state of Connecticut it sel- 
dom exceeds 1000 dollars per annum, but with a house and 
small glebe, and occasional presents. This affords a very de- 
cent support to a clergyman, and enables him to give his sons 
a college education. 

The principal religious denominations in the United States 
are, congregationalists, presbyterians, episcopalians, friends or 
quakers, methodists, baptists, German Lutherans, Dutch re- 
formed, Roman catholics, Moravians, Mennonists, jumpers, 
universalists, and shakers. If the whole population \yere 
divided into twelve parts, three of these would be Calvinists, 
chiefly of the congregational and presbytcrian sects ; two bap- 
tists ; two methodists ; one episcopalians and Lutherans ; the 
rest include persons of many various forms of belief, and a 
considerable number who follow no religious profession. 

Of the Congregationalists^ a few years since, there were 
1000 congregations in New England, and 200 in the middle 
and southern states, with 120 ministers and candidates for the 
ministry. Their system of church discipline, is derived chiefly 
from that which was established in 1700, and is known by the 
name of the Say Brook Platform. Each church chuses its 
own minister, but is associated with others for mutual advan- 
tage, and the termination of disputes. Meetings are held for 
this purpose twice a year. 

Presbyterians. — In the year 1810 there were 772 congrega- 
tions of presbyterians, with 434 ministers, and a number of 
licentiates. This denomination prevails in the middle and 
southern states. Their highest ecclesiastical court is siyled 
the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church, under 
which are synods, presbyteries, and church sessions. In 1810 
there were five synods and 36 presbyteries. At Princeton 
there is a theological school for Calvinists, well endowed, with 
a good library. 

The Episcopalians^ before the revolution, were obliged to 
send their preachers to England for ordination, at the average 
expence of 100/. sterling each. Dr. Chemeler, in his appeal 
to the public in behalf of the church of England, stated, ' that, 
of 52 who went home for orders, only 42 returned in safety, 



UNITED STATES. 377 

owing to sickness, or the accidents of the voyage.' This ab- 
surd regulation kept many of the churches unprovided with 
clergymen In the year 1808, the number of episcopalian 
churches in New England was 65, that of ministers, 48; in 
the middle states, bS churches, and 66 ministers; in the 
southern, 105 churches, and 101 ministers; in all, 238 
churches, and 215 ministers. The churches are under the 
general direction of the Convention of the Protestant Episco- 
pal Church, which is composed of two houses; the one of 
bishops, the other of delegates, consisting of clergymen and 
laymen. 

Of the Quakers or Friends there were about 400 congrega- 
tions some years ago, and chieflv in the middle states. In the 
northern there are few, except in Rhode island. In North 
Carolina there is a quaker settlement at New Garden, and 
congregations at Pasquotank and Wood creek. 

Methodists. — The number of methodists in 1809 amounted 
to 159,500. Thev are more numerous in the middle and 
southern than, in the northern states. Their churches are as- 
sociated under the title of the United Societies of the Method- 
ist Episcopal church. The whole country is divided into 
religious districts and circuits ; the former under the direction 
of a presiding elder, the latter under the inspection of an iti- 
nerant preacher ; both of whom are appointed at the annual 
conference. The seeds of methodism were first sown in this 
country by the celebrated Whitefield. It is believed that this 
sect is increasing very considerably. 

. Baptists. — ^In the year 1793, there were 45 baptist associa- 
tions in the United States, 1032 churches, 1^91 ministers, and 
73,471 members. In May, 1817, the general convention of 
the baptist denomination in the United States held their first 
triennial meeting at Philadelphia ; and in their report the 
number of churches and of members was thus estimated : 
2727 churches; ministers, 1936; members in fellowship, 
183,245. In the state of New York the number of churches 
was 321, of members, 23,558; in Kentucky, 421 churches, 
and 22,432 members; in Georgia, 202 churches, and 16,834 
members; in Virginia, 314 churches, and 11,838 members, 

3 B 



S78 VIEW OF THE 

Lutherans. — In the states of New York and Pennsylvania, 
the Lutherans, chiefly of German origin, have a hundred con- 
gregations ; the German Caivinists nearly the same number. 
Several of the clergymen of this denomination have distin- 
guished themselves by their literary and scientific attainments ; 
the late Dr. Muhlenburg of Lancaster, as a botanist, Dr. 
Kunzie of New York, as an oriental scholar and mathemati- 
cian, Mr. Melsheimer of Pennsylvania, as an etymologist. 

The Dutch Reformed church, under the name of the Re- 
formed Synod of New York and new Jersey, consists of about 
80 congregations. The canons of Dordrecht are adopted as a 
rule of discipline, and the Heidclburg Catechism as the rule 
of faith. 

Roman CathoUcs. — This denomination is more numerous in 
Maryland and in Louisiana than in any of the other states. 
The Roman catholics of Maryland are chiefly of Irish, those 
of Ijouisiana of French origin. Some years ago, the number 
in Maryland was 75,000. In Baltimore there is an archbishop 
and four bishops, and three churches; in Boston, a church 
and a bishop; in New York, two churches and a bishop; in 
Philadelphia, lour churches and a bishop ; in Bardstown, 
one ; in Kentucky, one ; in Louisiana, one, with two canons, 
and 25 curates, who receive each about oOO dollars a year. 

Moravians, or United Brethren. — In the year 1788, the 
number of this denomination was about 2000. Their princi- 
pal establishments are at Bethlehem and Nazareth in Pennsyl- 
vania, at Hope in New Jersey, and at Wachovia, on the 
Yadkin river, in North Carolina. In the last state they pur- 
chased 100,000 acres of land from lord Granville. They are 
styled the United Brethren of the Protestant Episcopal 
Church. The first person of this sect arrived in the United 
States in 1741, under the protection of count Zinzendo1"f. 

At Bethlehem, in Pennsylvania, the Moravians have a large 
society, occupying a numbei- of fjuins. There is a great hall 
in which all daily assemble for the purpose of public worship. 
The single men and women have each a separate dwelling. 
The latter are occupied in various domestic employments, — 
in fancy a;)d ornamental works, and occasionally in musical 



UNITED STATES. 379 

practice under the direction of a superintendent. The walla 
of the large hall where the society dine are adorned with 
paintings, diiefly Scripture pieces, executed by members. Va- 
rious branches of trade and manufacture are carried on, the 
profits of which go to the general stock, from which all are 
supplied widi the necessaries of life. Their whole time is 
spent in labour and in prayer, except an hour in the evening, 
which is allotted for a concert. Marriage is contracted in a 
singular manner. The young man who has an inclination to 
marry makes application to the priest, who presents a young 
woman designated by the superintendent as the next in rota- 
tion for marriage. Having left the parties together for an 
boiu-, the priest returns, and if they mutually consent to Jive 
together, they are married the next day ; if otherwise, each is 
put at the lx)ttom of the list, containing, perhaps, 60 or 70 
names, aiid, on tlie part of the girl, there is no chance of mar- 
riage, unless the same young man should again feel disposed 
for matrimony. When united, a neat habitation, with a plea- 
sa:it garden, is provided, and their children, at the age of six, 
are placed in the seminary. If either of tlie parents die, the 
other returns to the apartment of the single people. In the 
Moravian establishment there is a tavern witli large and excel- 
lent acconimodations. There are Moravian establishments 
also in South Carolina, al Bethania, Salem, and other places 
on the Moravian branch of the river Yadlin. 

Universalists, — We have not been able to pi'ocure any esti- 
mate of the number of persons of this persuasion. They form 
two divisions ; the followers of Dr. Chincry, and those of Mr, • 
John Murray. 

JShalcers. — The first of this sect came from England in 1774. 
Their number is inconsiderable. Their principal establish- 
ments are at Nisqiteunah, and New Lebanon, in the state of 
New York ; at Enfield in Ciwnecticut, and at Canterbury in 
Ne*v Ilampslnre. 

The TuaiJcers, a sect in Pennsylvania, took their origin 
from a G«r«jan, v>\w, weary of the busy world, retired to a 
solitary place about 50 miles from riiiladelphia, where he 
^xm^ a <5Qilony ob a river nauied Euphrates. T\mx religious 



380 VIEW OF THE 

practices resemble those of the quakers, none but those who 
feel the divine influence having a right to preach and exhort. 
The women hve separate from the men, and never associate 
except for the purpose of pubUc worship, or public business. 
Divine service is performed twice a day ; and the whole time, 
except a few hours given to sleep, is spent in labour and 
in prayer. They hold as injurious the doctrine of original 
sin, and deny the eternity of future punishment ; though they 
admit of a hell and a paradise. They believe that the souls 
of Christians are employed in the next world in the conversion 
of those who left this without enjoying the light of the gospel. 
In their conduct they show a stoical indifference to the good 
and evil of life. They never complain or. retaliate, even when 
insulted or robbed of their property. The dress of both sexes 
consists of a long white hooded gown, a coarse shirt, and thick 
shoes. The men wear w ide breeches i-esembling those of the 
Turks ; and never cut the beard, which, in some, reaches to 
the waist. Their food consists of vegetables only, the produce 
of their own labour, which is deposited in a common stock for 
the wants of the society. 

Sandemanian,'}. — Of this sect there is a small society at 
Portsmouth, in New Hampshire. 

Mennonists, who derive their name from Simon Menno, a 
German baptist, live in Pennsylvania. In the year 1770, 
their number amounted to 4000, forming thirteen churches, 
and 40 congregations. 

In New England clerical gentlemen have an astonishing 
hold upon the minds of men : the degree of reverential awe 
for the sanctity of their office, and the attention paid to the 
exter7ial forms of religion, approach almost to idolatry : these 
feelings are, perhaps, never encouraged without becoming the 
substitute of real religion^ and expelling the active and mental 
principles of Christianity. A man who values his good name 
in Boston, hardly dare be seen out of church at the appointed 
hours ; — this would be viewed as a heinous crime by men who 
would consider the same individuaPs cheating his creditors as 
of small import. Indeed, throughout the whole of the United 
States, there exists a kind of cold indifference in matters rela-, 



UNITED STATES. S81 

live to religion, as far as concerns discussion and controversy. 
Every man is expected quietly to choose one of the churches; 
and when that is done, he must abide by it as solemnly and as 
regularly as he does his segar, his rum, and his business. 
Whatever degree of religious intelligence exists, is conjincd to 
the clergy ; who, perhaps, have lost no advantage by the abo- 
lition of a state religion. 

Religious fanaticism is very general in the States, and is 
carried to a degree of extravagance almost inconceivable in 
this country. We have before us some account of Camp 
Meetings, which are occasionally held in different states ; but 
the description is too indecent and gross to bear repetition. 
We will, however, as a specimen of these improprieties, relate 
a few such like occurrences from the pen of two recent and 
respectable travellers. 

' The Sunday after my arrival at Savannah,' says Mr. 
Lambert, ' I was passing a methodist meeting, and was in- 
duced, by the vehemence of the preacher, to go in and hear 
his discourse. He uttered such terrible imprecations upon 
sinners unless they were born again in faith, that one half of 
his congregation were groaning and weeping in the mosfpiti- 
able manner. Such an assemblage of wretched looks, and pale, 
ghastly countenances, I never before saw ; they seemed, indeed, 
to have suffered severe castigation for their sins even in this 
world. Instead of benefiting by the mild and consolatory pre- 
cepts of Christianity, these people appeared to be lost in a sea 
of doubt and perplexity ; and seemed to think of nothing but 
everlasting damnation, unless perchance they construed a grip- 
ing of the boivels into the workings of divine grace.'' 

Another writer describes the mode in which the artful and 
designing impose upon the ignorant and unwary in the fol- 
lowing words : — 

' Having heard that American methodists were distinguished 
for an extreme degree of fanatical violence in their religious 
exercises, I visited the African church, (all houses of religious 
assembly being denominated churches,) in which were noiie 
but blacks ; and in the evening, " Ebenezer church,"" in which 



S82 \'IEW OF THE 

were only whites. As the latter possessed all the characteris- 
tics of the former, with considerable additions of its own, to 
dial mily it k lieoessarj tliat I should call your attention. I 
went at eigiit oclock in the evening. The door was locked ; 
but the windows being open, I placed myself at one of them, 
eujd saw that the churcli within was crowded almost to suffo- 
cation. The preacher indulged in long pauses, and occasional 
loud ele\'a.tions of voice, which were always answered by the 
audience with deep groaos. When tiie prayer which followed 
the sermon liad ended, the minister descended from the pulpit, 
tlie dooi^s were thrown open, and a considerable number of the 
audience departed. Understanding, however, tiaat something 
was yet to follow, with considei'aWe difficulty I olotaiaed ad- 
mission. The minister had departed, the doors were again 
closed, but about four hundred persons remained. One (ap- 
parently) of the leading members gave out a hymn, then a 
bj'othei" was called upon to pray : he roareil and ranted like a 
«aaniac ; tiie male part of ths audience gi'oajied, fclae female 
shrieked ; « wan sitting next to me shouted ; a youth stand- 
iiig befoi-e me continued for half an hour bawling, " Oh Jesus ! 
-come idow», come dwwn, Jesus ! my dear Jesus, I see you ? 
bless me, Jesus ! Oh ! oh ! oh i Come down, Jesus r A 
small space 'farther on, a girl about eleven years of age was in 
convulsions : an oikl woman, wbo I concluded was her tnotber, 
stood on the seat, holding her up in her arms, that her exta- 
des might be visible to the whole assembly. In anotlier place 
tliere w^as ^ convocation of bdly sisters, sending forth most 
awful yells. A brother now stood forward, stating, tliat, 
"although numlxTs bad gone, he trusted tl>e Lord would 
that oig'lit work some signal favours among fcis dear lambs." 
Two sistci's advanced towards him, refusing to be comforted, 
*' for the Lord was with them :"" another brother prayed — and 
aJM^ber. ■*' ^aikec Macfaddin" was now called upon, a«d he 
addressed tl^jin with a voice wbich miglit rival a peal of thun- 
der, the whole congregatiaii occasionally joining responsive to 
bis notes. Tlie madness now became threefold increased, and 
sitd\ a isceue ptiesented its'elf as I could aiever ihave pictured- to 



UNITED STATES. S8S 

my imagination, and as I trust, for the honour of true religion 
and of human nature, I shall never see again. Had the inha- 
bitants of Bedlam been let loose, they could not have exceeded 
it. From forty to fifty were praying aloud and extemporane- 
ously at the same moment of time : some were kicking, many 
jumping, all clapping their hands and crying out in chorus, 
" Glory ! glory ! glory ! Jesus Christ is a very good friend ! 
Jesus Christ is a very good friend ! Oh God ! oh Jesus * 
come down! Glory! glory! glory! Thank you, Jesus ! 
thank you, God ! Oh, glory ! glory ! glory ! ! !" Mere ex- 
haustion of bodily strength produced a cessation of madness 
for a few minutes. A hymn was given out and sung; pray- 
ing then recommenced ; the scene of madness was again acted, 
with, if possible, increased eflbrts on the part of the performers. 
One of the brothers prayed to he he pt J rom enthusiasm! A 
girl of six years of age became the next object of attention. 
A reverend brother proclaimed that she "had just received a 
visit from the Lord, and was in awful convulsions — so hard 
was the working of the spirit !" This scene continued for 
some time; but the audience gradually lessened, so that by 
ten o''clock the field of active operations was considerably con- 
tracted. The women, hovvever, forming a compact column at 
the most distant comer of the church, continued their shriek- 
ings with but Uttle abatement. Feeling disposed to get a 
nearer sight of the beings who sent forth such terrifying yells, 
I endeavoured to approach them, but was stopped by several 
of the brethren, who would not allow of a near approach to- 
wards the holy sisterhood. The novelty of this exhibition 
had, at first sight, rendered it a subject of amusement and in- 
terest ; but all such feelings soon gave way to an emotion of 
melancholy horror, when I considered the gloomy picture it 
represented of human nature, and called to mind that these 
maniacal fanatics were blaspheming the holy name of Christi- 
anity. Notwithstanding my warm love of liberty, 1 felt that, 
were I an absolute lawgiver, I would certainly punish and re* 
strain men who thus degraded their nature, who set so wicked 
an example of religious blasphemy, and so foully libelled the 
name and character of revelation. 



384 VIEW OF THE 

*I have since understood that one of the female converts 
upon this occasion had been turned away from her situation 
the previous evening for steahng five dollars. 

' A gentleman informed me that he was at " Ebenezer"" a 
few days since, when the preacher stopped in the midst of his 
discourse, and directed those among his audience who were for 
King Jesus to stand up. Numbers of men and women imme- 
diately rose, shouting " I am for Jesus." " I am for Jesus.*" 
" I am for King Jesus." " Oh, that I could press him to my 
bosom !" " There he comes." " I am for King Jesus." I 
am informed that these exhibitions are neither singular in oc- 
currence nor partial in extent, and feel at a loss to account for 
such fanatical enthusiasm in this country : it is by no means 
an essential part of the creed of either Wesley or Whitefield ; 
and, in Great Britain, few bodies of men conduct their meet- 
ings with more order than the methodists. In Wales, I un- 
derstand, and perhaps in some country parts of England, 
there may be occasional exhibitions of the same kind; but 
they are of rare occurrence, and comparatively moderate in 
their excesses. In Ireland I have also witnessed occasional 
violence ; but never any thing at all equal to that exhibited at 
*' Ebenezer." In the latter counti-y, too, we make some al- 
lowance for national character : they are all fire — all feeling ; 
but with Americans, whatever may be their excellences or 
defects, they are certainly not chargeable with possessing a 
superabundance of warm blood : they are, on the contrary, 
most remarkable for complete and general coldness of charac- 
ter and disposition. That, therefore, they should be enthusi- 
astic, even in matters of religion, would appear a matter of 
difficult solution. In the individuals, it would seem to burst 
forth upon prepared occasions, and to exist in common with — 
perhaps actually to spring from, a cold-blooded callousness of 
disposition. The general theory which attributes warmth of 
feeling to the fanatic is perhaps, after all, a false one. Who 
so bigoted, so exclusive, so illiberal towards others, so wholly 
devoid of every generous sentiment ? The extreme fanaticism 
of these maniacal saints may perhaps therefore actually spring 



UNITED STATES. :i85 

fi-om the absence of real enthusiasm, combined, of course, with 
gross and excessive ignorance.' 



PUBLIC LANDS. 

Before we enter upon the important subject of agriculture, 
it will be necessary to notice the regulations adopted respecting 
the sale and occupation of lands belonging to the States. 

The United States have obtained, by cession from the dif- 
ferent states of the Union, all their respective rights to public 
lands. The Indian title to extensive tracts has been extin- 
guished by treaty, and all the vacant lands of Louisiana have 
become national property. According to the statement of the 
commissioner of the general land office, dated the 30th De- 
cember, 1813, there are upwards of 400,000,000 of acres oi 
national domain undisposed of 

1. Lands of which the Indian title has been extin- 

guished, .... 56^22r>,000 

2. Lands of which the Indian title has not been ex- 

tinguished eastward of the Mississippi, - .148,876,000 

3. Lands of which the Indian title has not been ex- 

tinguished in Louisiana and the Missouri tei'ri- 

tory, estimated at - - - 200,000,000 

Total, - - 405,101,000 

This land is of every quality of soil, and extends through almost 
every variety of climate. 

The law for the sale of public lands was passed in the year 
1800, and has since undergone some modifications. The 
lands having been surveyed, are divided into townships of six 
miles square, each of which is subdivided into 36 sections, of 
one mile square, or 640 acres. The dividing lines run in the 
direction of the cardinal points, and cross one another at right 
angles. This business is under the direction of two surveyors, 
the one having the title of ' Surveyor-general,' the other that 
of ' Surveyor of the public lands south of the state of Tennes- 
see.' The powers and duties of the first extend over all the 
public lands north of the river Ohio, and over the territory of 
17 3 C 



386 VIEW OF THE 

Louisiana ; those of the second over the territories of Orleans 
and Mississippi. A return of tlie surveys is transmitted to 
the proper land-office, and also to the treasury-office at Wash- 
ington. A 36th part, or 640 acres of each township, is allotted 
for tlie support of schools within its limits ; and seven entire 
townships have been given in perpetuity, for the support of 
seminaries of learning; two in the state of Ohio, and one in 
each of the territories of Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missis- 
sippi, and Louisiana. In every act or deed, lead mines and 
salt springs are reserved, and may be leased by government. 
The rivers Mississippi and Ohio, and all the navigable streams 
that lead into either, or into the St. Lawrence, remain as com- 
mon highways, and free from all tax, to all the citizens of the 
United States. The lands are offered at public sale, in quar- 
ter sections of 160 acres each. The minimum price is two 
dollars per acre. The lands not purchased at public sale may 
be sold privately at this price. In either case the purchase- 
money is paid in foui* equal instalments ; the first within 40 
days, and the others within two, three, and four years, after 
the date of the j)urchase. If the payment be not made ac- 
cording to the terms, interest is paid at the rate o{' six per cent. 
per annum. On each instalment a discount of eight per cent, 
is allowed for prompt payment ; so that, if the amount be paid 
at the time of purchase, the price is reduced to a dollar and 
64 cents per acre. If the whole of the purchase- money be not 
paid within five years after the date of the pui'chase, the lands 
are offered at public sale, but cannot be disposed of for less 
than the arrears of principal and interest due thereon. If this 
amount cannot be obtained, they revert to the United States, 
and the partial payments are forfeited. If they sell for a 
greater sum, the surplus is returned to the original purchaser. 
The lands purchased from the Indians are divided into dis- 
tricts, and a land-office established in each, under the dii'ection 
of two officers ; a register, who receives the applications and 
sells the land ; and a receiver of public monies, to whom the 
purchase-money is paid, if not transmitted to the treasury de- 
partment. The patent is not issued until the whole purchase- 
money, with interest, is paid. The president of the United 



UNITED STATES. 387 

States is authorised, if necessary, to remove intruders from the 
public lands, by military force. Rights of pre-emption, mili- 
tary bounties, and donations, are regulated by acts of congress. 
From the opening of the land-offices to the 1st of October, 

1812, the sale of public lands in the districts of Marietta, La- 
nesvilie, Steubenville, Canton, Chillicothe, Cincinnati, Jetfer- 
sonville, and Vincennes, amoimted to 4,006,488 acres, and 
produced 8,508,294 dollars. The lands sold in the Missis- 
sippi territory, in Madison county, and west and east of Pearl 
river, from the 1st of October, 1812, to the 30th of September, 

1813, amounted to 514,422 acres, which produced 1,063,831 
dollars. From the 1st of July, 1800, to the 1st of the same 
month, 1810, the whole quantity of land sold amounted to 
3,386,000 arres, which produced" 7,062,000 dollars, of which 
4,880,000 dollars had been received in payment, and the ba- 
lance remained due bv the purchasers. 

In 1812, the committee on public lands recommended the 
repeal of such part of the public laws as allows a credit on 
part of the purchase-money, and that in future the lands be 
offered for sale in tracts of 80 acres, at a dollar and 25 cents 
per acre, which would prevent their monopoly by large capi- 
talists, and enable the industrious poor man to become a pur- 
chaser. In the state of Ohio alone, the receipts, on account of 
forfeitures in 1811, amounted to nearly 50,000 dollars. The 
forfeiture is generally one-fourth of the purchase-money. If 
the purchaser take the credit allowed by law on the three in- 
stalments, he pays interest of more than ten per cent, per an- 
num ; and if he have no other resources than those arising 
from the land, he forfeits tlie whole amount of money paid, 
and all his agricultural improvements are finally lost. This 
circumstance induced the congress of the United States to pass 
an act, in February, 1814, in favour of the purchasers of pub- 
lic lands, who had not completed their payments, according to 
which, those who, prior to the 1st of April, 1810, had pur- 
chased lands not exceeding 640 acres, portional sections ex- 
cepted, were allowed the further time of three years for 
completing the payment. 



388 VIEW OF THE 

A proposition for increasing the price of public lands \va& 
under the consideration of congress in 1817 ; but the commit- 
tee, in their report, felt somewhat apprehensive, that the 
United States, so far from being enabled to increase, would 
find themselves compelled to lessen the price of the public 
lands, or to forego the golden dreams they indulge of an enor- 
mous revenue to arise from their sale. 

AGRICULTURE. 

.The United States, over their whole extent, are truly an 
agricultural country. The number of persons engaged in 
commercial pursuits is very small, in proportion to the popu- 
lation ; and the manufactures are chiefly carried on by farmers. 
Agriculture is and must long continue the first and principal 
object both of the natives and of foreign emigrants. Immense 
fertile regions, yet uncleared, with every variety of soil and 
temperature, invite settlers ; and the low price of lands enables 
every industrious man, with a very small capital, to purchase 
some few hundred acres, and establish himself in a comfortable 
and independent situation. During the late war, the exclusion 
of British goods gave a great stimulus to domestic manufac- 
tures, and the disposition to embark in them was encouraged 
by the government ; but, since the return ol" peace, the Influx 
of foreign articles, at inferior prices, has occasioned a great 
proportion of them to be abandoned. The progress of Ame- 
rican agriculture, since the year 1800, has been very consider- 
able. Immense tracts of forests have been brought under the 
plough. The principles of agriculture have also become an 
object of attention ; and several societies have been established 
for its improvement. That of Philadelphia has published 
three octavo volumes. Those of New York, Boston, and 
Columbia, have also published useful memoirs. 

For the purpose of diffusing agricultural knowledge through- 
out the United States, an association was formed, in 1803, 
under the uanse of the ' American Board of Agriculture,' com- 
posed chiefly of the members of both houses of congress. 



UNITED STATES. 389 

Sulphat of lime, or gypsum, so useful as a manure, has been 
lately found, and of a very fine quality, in the state of New 
York, in the counties of Onandago and Madison, on the bor- 
ders of tlie Cayuga and Seneca lakes, and in the territory of 
Missouri. Sulphuret of barytes has been successfully em- 
ployed as a manure, and is manufactured for this purpose, at 
the rate of 25 cents per bushel. The cultivation of the sugar- 
cane has been introduced into Louisiana, and lately into the 
islands on the coast of Georgia. It is believed that all the 
land favourable to the cultivation of sea island cotton, may be 
converted into sugar plantations. During the late war, the 
agricultural system underwent various changes, depending on 
new kinds of industry to which it gave birth. In the southern 
states, the culture of wheat has been substituted for that of 
tobacco, which, in time of peace, was one of the great articles 
of exportation. It was found that, at the close of the war, 
there was about 25,000 hogsheads in the state of Maryland, 
and from 35,000 to 40,000 in Virginia. The whole value 
exported in 1813 did not exceed 320,000 dollars. In the 
state of Pennsylvania an association has been formed for the 
purpose of encouraging the cultivation of the vine. A species 
brought from the Cape of Good Hope, of which the wine is 
agreeable, and the brandy of a superior quality, thrives in the 
open field. Other species are cultivated in the same state by 
Mr. Legaux, the wine of which -is also of a good quality. It 
is observed by this gentleman, that in the United States the 
temperature and vegetation in the 40th degree of latitude, are 
similar to those of the 48th and 49th of Europe. 

It is believed, that the vine will succeed well in Kentucky, 
Virginia, Tennessee, and upper parts of the Carolinas, parti- 
cularly in the natural meadows or barrens, where the wild 
grape is similar to that of the suburbs of Paris in France. 
The white Italian mulberrv was long since introduced into the 
southern states, and the silk-worm was found to thrive ; but 
the high price of labour renders the manufacture of silk un- 
profitable. The Sesmnum Oricntnic, or benny-seed^ is now 
cultivated in Virginia and the Carolinas for domestic purposes. 
The oil which the seed affords is equal to olive oil of the best 



390 VIEW OP THE 

quality, and it is difficult to distinguish the one from the other 
by the taste. Sugar is now cultivated in Georgia, and to a 
great extent in Louisiana. The quantity made in Louisiana, 
in 1810, was estimated at ten millions of pounds; and in the 
same year, according to the reports of the marshals, more than 
nine millions and a half of sugar were made from the maple- 
tree in the United States. In 1814, the quantity of sugar 
made in Louisiana was not less than fifteen millions of pounds ; 
and in 1816, 10,833,704 pounds were exported coastwise from 
New Orleans, principally to Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New 
York, and this was in addition to the quantity carried up the 
Mississippi, and consumed in the state of Louisiana. It has 
lately been ascertained, that several species of plants, from 
which barilla, or carbonat of soda, is extracted, grow sponta- 
neously in different parts of the United States. The Salsola 
Icali, in the island of New York, near the East river, in the 
environs of Boston, at Richmond in Virginia, and on the bor- 
ders of the Rappahanoc. The Salicomia Jructkosa, one of 
the materials of the fine Alicant barilla, grows in almost all 
the salt marshes, and fuci of different species abound on the 
sea-shore. The rearing of sheep has become a great object of 
rural economy. The Merino species, of a pure as well as 
mixed breed, are now multiplied throughout the whole extent 
of the United States. The first that were imported were sold 
at 1000 dollars each, and the present average price does not 
exceed 45 dollars. It is a curious fact, that in the United 
States they are not subject to the fatal disease so well known 
in Europe under the name of rot. In the western parts of the 
state of New York, they thrive remarkably well, and it would 
appear that the ravages of the wolf are not more destructive 
there than those of the dog in counti-ies peopled at an earlier 
period. They do not require as much food as the common 
sheep ; and it is well known that the wool is not only finer, 
but more abundant. Hemp is now cultivated in certain dis- 
tricts of the states of New York and Kentucky ; some of the 
low or bottom grounds have yielded 600 pounds per acre. 

The breed of American horses has been improved by inter- 
mixture with those of Europe. In the northern states they 



UNITED STATES. SQl 

partake of the qualities of the Norman and English hunter ; 
in those of the south, of the Arabian, or English race-horse. 

The breed of oxen has also been improved for the purpose 
of agricultural labour. Dr. Mease, in his introductory dis- 
course on the diseases of domestic animals, states, that, in 
South Carolina and Georgia, cattle brought from Europe, or 
from the interior to the vicinity of the sea, were invariably at- 
tacked by a disease which is generally fatal, and that those 
from a particular district of South Carolina, infect all others 
with which they mix in their passage to the north, although 
the former are in perfect health. The hogs of the s ^uthern 
are smaller than those of the northern states, and the pork is 
sweeter, particularly in Virginia and Maryland, though some 
of those animals, in the southern states, grow to an enormous 
size. A hog was killed at Augusta in Georgia, in 1814, four 
years old, which weighed 698 pounds net. The beef and 
mutton of the northern states are of a better quality than those 
of the south. lu the former the cattle have also multiplied in 
a wonderful manner. In the state of New York, the number 
of neat cattle, in 1814, was 86.S,298 ; that of sheep, 1,410,044; 
of horses, 527,570 ; of fattcnied swine killed annually, 140,000 ; 
of beeves slain or driven to market, 220,000; according to 
Mr. Blodgctt's calculation, the number of horned cattle in 
1809 was 3,660,000. 

The failure of European projects for agricultural establish- 
ments in the United States has excited very unfavourable im- 
pressions against such enterprises. This failure is generally 
ascribable to two causes. 1st, The impostures practised by 
companies and their agents ; and, 2dly, To the habits of the 
purchasers or occupants, who were strangers to agricultural 
pursuits. The speculation of the Scioto company was infa- 
mous beyond expression. Lands belonging to Indians, or 
other proprietors, were sold to French emigrants at the rate 
of six livres per acre. IMany of the unfortunate purchasers, 
who were watchmakers, jewellers, hairdressers, finding no em- 
ployment in the way of their profession, were obliged to seek 
refuge and subsistence in the sea-port towns, , 



S93 VIEW OF THE 

Land is sometimes partially cleared, by what is rather ludi- 
crously termed a.Jrolic. A man having purchased a quarter, 
or half section, for the purpose of settling down, his neigh- 
bours assemble upon an appointed day : one cuts the trees ; a 
second lops them ; a third drags them to the spot upon which 
a log mansion is to be erected ; others cross the logs, roof the 
habitation, and in three days the emigrant has a ' house over 
his head C — thus ends the American frolic. The raising of 
food is the next point with the new settler : in this he must 
rely upon his own i-esources. If he be strong-handed, (has 
property,) he has the trees felled, about one foot from the 
earth, dragged into heaps, and made into an immense bonfire. 
Should he be weak-handed, (poor,) he is compelled to be con- 
tent with what is termed girdling ; which consists in cutting 
the bark, thereby, of course, killing the trees ; and he after- 
wards clears away the underwood, which is seldom considera- 
ble. These preliminary operations being effected, according 
to either mode, grain is sown, and the produce reaped with a 
fruitfulness of production, and a dexterity truly extraordinary, 
considering that tliese operations are carried on amidst stumps, 
(which decay in from eight to twelve years,) stones, and sur- 
rounded by entire trees. The beauty of an Indian corn crop 
cannot be exceeded. When cut and carried home, the neigh- 
bours assemble to assist in husking; this is called a 7M^,sA:ir?g' 
Jrolic. In some parts of the country the loxva frolic admits of 
a different application ; — the religious females present their 
minister with a variety of gifts, each according to their taste or 
means: some send a coat, others a hat, and some a goose. 
They are invited to the preacher's house, to partake of a sup- 
per, as a return for their liberality : this is termed a knitting 
Jrolic. Very little agricultural labour is performed by women. 
The slender means of many settlers not enabling them to pur- 
chase British goods at the high price at which they are sold, 
the females are therefore chiefly employed in making articles 
of domestic clothing. 

The interior population may perhaps be divided into three 
classes : First, the squatter, or man who ' sets himself down'' 



UNITED STATES. 393 

upon land which is not his own, and for which he pays no- 
thing; cultivates a sufficient extent to supply himself and fa- 
mily with the necessaries of life ; remains until he is dissatis- 
fied with his choice, has realized a sufficiency to become a 
land-owner, or is expelled by the real proprietor. Second, 
the small farmer who has recently emigrated, had barely suf- 
ficient to pay the first instalment for his 80 or 160 acres of 
two-dollar land ; cultivates, or what he calls improves, ten to 
thirty acres; raises a sufficient 'feed' for his family ; has the 
females of it employed in making or patching the wretched 
clothing of the whole domestic circle; is in a condition which, 
\i compelled hy legislative acts, or hy external force to endure, 
would be considered truly wretched ; but from being his own 
master, having made his own choice, from the having ' no one 
to make him afraid,' joined with the consciousness that, though 
slowly, he is regularly advancing towards wealth ; the breath 
of complaint is seldom heard to escape from his lips. Third, 
the wealthy or ' strong-lianded'' farmer, who owns from five to 
twelve hundred acres, has one-fourth or one-third under culti- 
vation, of a kind much superior to the former; raises live 
stock for the home, and Atlantic-city markets; sends beef, 
pork, cheese, lard, and butter to New Orleans ; is perhaps a 
legislator, at any rate a squire (magistrate) ; is always a man 
of plain business-like sense, though not in possession, nor de- 
sirous of a very cultivated intellect; understands his own in- 
terest, and that of his country ; lives in sufficient affluence, 
and is possessed of comfort, according to the American ac- 
ceptation of the term, but to which ' old country'' folks 
must feel inclined to take an exception : but in conclusion, 
and a most important conclusion it is, the majority of this 
class of men were, ten or fifteen years ago, inhabitants of the 
eastern states, and not worth, upon their arrival in Ohio, 
twenty dollars. 

3 D 



394. VIEW OF THE 

A Table of the Value of the Exports of the proceeds qfjgrii- 

culture in 1812. 

Products of Animals. 





Dollars. 


Beef, tallow, hides, live cattle, - 


524,000 


Butter and cheese, - 


329,000 


Pork, pickled bacon, lard, live hogs. 


604,000 


Horses and mules, - - - - 


191,000 


Sheep, ------ 


9,000 




], 657,000 


Products of Vegetables. 




Wheat, flour, and biscuit. 


13,687,000 


Indian corn and meal. 


1,939,000 


Rice, ------ 


1,544,000 


Rye, oats, pulse, potatoes. 


627,000 




17,797,000 


Tobacco, - - - - - 


1,514,000 


Cotton, 


3,080,000. 




22,391,000 




Indigo, ------ 


5,000 


Flax-seed, - - - - - 


455,000 


Maple sugar, - - - - - 


13,000 


Hops, ------ 


7,000 


Poultry, flax, mustard, - - - 


7,000 


Sundries, - - - - - 


20,000 




507,000 



Total amount, - ^ 24,555,000 
The value of the flour exported in the year ending 30th Septem- 
ber, 1817, was 17,751,376 dollars; of the cotton, 22,627,614; to- 
bacco, 9,230,020; rice, 2,378,880; timber and lumber of all 
descriptions, 3,381,349; pot and pearl ashes, 1,967,243. 

The value of the whole products of agriculture, in all the 
states, was estimated to amount to 511,000,000 dollars yearly. 
The value of houses, lands, and slaves, as revised and equal- 
ised by the principal assessors in 1814 and 1815, was stated at 



UNITED STATES. S95 

1,902,296,961 dollars, exclushe of Louisiana. Such calcula- 
tions cannot be made with great precision ; but they afford a 
sufficient data for ascertaining the progress of the States, and 
establishing the quota of taxes which each ought to pay to- 
wards the support of the general government. 

MANUFACTURES. 

The restrictive commercial regulations of Europe, and the 
late war with England, gave a great stimulus to American 
manufactures, and their progress during the course of a few 
years was almost incredible. Many new branches were intro- 
duced, and these which had been already established were car- 
ried to a much greater extent. The principal cause of the 
neglect of manufactures formerly was the great profits afforded 
by agriculture, with the high price of labour. All the mate- 
rials for manufactures are found in America. Fuel is inex- 
haustible; the ores of the most useful metals are in great 
abundance, and dyes of all kinds are procured from the vege- 
table and mineral kingdoms. In the year 1809, the secretary 
of the treasury unfolded the resources of the country in rela- 
tion to the raw material, and proposed various means for the 
promotion of manufactures, protecting and prohibitory duties, 
drawbacks, premiums, bounties, encouragement to new inven- 
tions, arrangements for facilitating pecuniary remittances, &c. 

In 1810, the secretary of the treasury of the United States 
presented to congress a report on the manufactures, in which 
the following are mentioned as being adequate to the con- 
sumption of the United States: — Manufactures of wood, or 
those of which wood is the principal material; leather, and 
manufactures of leather ; soap and tallow candles ; spermaceti 
oil and candles ; flax-seed oil ; refined sugar ; coarse earthen 
ware; chocolate and mustard; snuff and hair-powder. The 
following branches are menti<wed as being firmly established, 
supplying, in several instances, the greater, and in all, a conf- 
siderable portion of the consumption of the United States : 
viz. Iron, and manufactures of iron ; manufactures of cotton, 
wool, and hats made of flax ; manufactures of paper, printing 



396 VIEW OF THE 

types, printed books, playing cards ; of hemp and gunpowder, 
window-glass, jewellery, and clocks ; of lead, wax candles, 
straw bonnets and hats, spirituous and malt liquors. The 
ships, and vessels of more than twenty tons, built in the 
United States from 1801 to 1807, measured, at an average, 
110,000 tons a year, giving a value of more than six millions 
of dollars. Two-thirds of these vessels were registered for the 
foreign trade; the other third for the coasting trade and 
fisheries. The annual exportation of furniture and carriages 
amounted to 170,000 dollars ; the annual exportation of pot 
and pearl ash was 7400 tons. The annual value of manufac- 
tured articles from leather was estimated at twenty millions of 
dollars. The gTeatest portion of soap and tallow is of domes- 
tic manufacture. The whole annual value of manufactures 
was estimated by the secretary of the treasury at eight millions 
of dollars. In 1803, there were but four cotton mills in the 
United States; in 1809, the number was 87, and most of 
them water mills. In 1811, there were 80,000 spindles run- 
ning. The capital employed in this kind of manufacture 
amounted to 4,800,000 dollars ; in the cotton singly to 
3,600,000 pounds, and valued at 720,000 dollars ; the yarn 
spun to 2,880,000 pounds, valued at 3,240,000 dollars. The 
number of men employed was 503,000, with 500 women and 
children. 

In some places cotton yarn is offered for exportation. The 
art of printing cotton and calico is carried to great perfection 
at Philadelphia, by means of rollers moved by water, which 
stamp 10,000 yards a day. The wooj of the United States 
has been greatly improved by the introduction of the Merino, 
or Spanish race of sheep, which is now seen all over the coun- 
try. The Paula and Negritli breed, and that of the Escurial 
and Infantado, were procured in 1802 ; the whole number 
imported till 1801 amounted to 5000. The first were sold at 
1000, and even 1500 dollars; but they gradually fell, during 
that period of time, to 25 and 30 dollars each. The price of 
the wool was from three-quarters to two dollars per pound. 
Various manufactories of fine woollen have been established 
within the last seven years. In the state of New Jersey, 



UNITED STATES. 397 

county of Essex, there are ten woollen manufactories, contain- 
ing 3600 spindles, capable of manufacturing cloth to the 
amount of 650,000 dollars per annum. The woollen manu- 
factory at Danville, on the Susquehannah, after its first esta- 
blishment in 18()9, gave a net profit to the company of 40 per 
cent, on the capital. The broad cloth manufactured near 
Wilmington, on the Delaware, is said to be equal to the best 
quality imported from England. The number of fulling mills, 
in 1810, was 1630; that of wool-carding machines, going by 
water, 1835; the number of looms returned 330,000. In 
1810, twelve millions of pounds weight of 6heep''s wool were 
wrought into goods. Manufactories of flax have been lately 
established in different states ; one near Philadelphia produces 
annually 72,000 yards of canvas ; another, 500,000 yards of 
cotton bagging, sailcloth, and coarse linen. 

The next important branch of manufactures are the metals. 
In 1810, the furnaces, forges, and bloomeries of the United 
States amounted to 530, of which the state of New York fur- 
nished 69- The annual value of iron and its manufactures 
was estinmted by the secretary of the treasury (M. Gallatin) 
at twelve or fifteen millions of dollars. The average value of 
imported metal in bar iron and steel was four millions. The 
Franconia iron-works in New Hampshire, established in 1810, 
employed a capital of 100,000 dollars. The Vergennes iron- 
works in Vermont promise to be very important. The price 
of bar iron at this establishment is 140 dollars per ton ; the 
ore three dollars ; charcoal, four dollars and a half per hun- 
dred bushels. Nineteen thousand muskets are annually made 
at the two public armories of Springfield and Harper's Ferry. 
There is now a considerable surplus of small arms. In 1810, 
the quantity of gunpowder prepared annually amounted to 
1,450,000 pounds; the number of gunpowder mills was 207. 
The manufactory of gunpowder at Brandywine furnishes 
225,000 pounds annually ; two, others, near Baltimore, 
450,000 pounds. The salt springs of Onondago, Cayuga, 
&c. in the state of New York, furnish 700,000 bushels of salt 
per annum, valued at 200,000 dollars ; those of the western 



398 VIEW OF THE 

states and territories an equal quantity. The AVabash saline^ 
belonging to the United States, gives 130,000 bushels, which 
is sold there at 75 cents per bushel. The manufactories of 
refined sugar have kept pace with the increase of population ; 
in 1816, the annual quantity was estimated at five millions of 
pounds, valued at one million dollars. The manufactories of 
candles and spernniceti oil at the town of Nantucket, New 
Bedford, and Hudson, supply the domestic consumption, and 
furnish annually for exportation 26(^000 pounds of candles, 
and 44,000 gallons of oil. In 1810, the annual quantity of dis- 
tilled ardent spirits amounted to 23,7-0,000 gallons. Brandy 
is made from peaches, whisky from rye and maize, and a spirit 
also from cyder. . Whitemore's machine for making wool cards 
has excluded the importation of this article. The machine for 
making nails, now in operation at EUicot's Mills and other 
parts of the United States, cuts 12,000 nails in a minute. 
The manufactories of cotton, wool, copper, brass, nails, and 
glass, belonging to JBaltimore, are valued at two millions of 
dollars. The manufactories of New York, in 1811, were es- 
timated at thirty millions of dollars, twelve millions of which 
•were produced by domestic industry. There are ten glass 
manufactories, which produce annually 5,800,000 feet of Avin- 
dow glass, valued at 1,200,000 dollars ; ten sugar refineries, 
the manufactures of which are valued at 500,000 dollars ; 50 
cut-nail factories, the manufactures valued at 300,000 dol- 
lars. In 1805, the foreign articles re-exported amounted to 
15,384,883 dollars; in 1810, to 6,313,715 dollars, while the 
domestic had increased to nearly 11,000,000. 

The state of Ohio, which, 24 years ago, was a wilderness, 
frequented only by savages, in the year 1810 manufactui'ed 
two millions of yards of woollen, flaxen, and cotton cloth; one 
million of gallons of whisky ; thirteen millions of pounds of 
sugar ; with other articles, forming two millions and a quarter 
of dollars. From the 5th of October to the 5th of May, 1811, 
a period of seven months, 800 boats passed the falls of the 
Oliio, laden with the productions and nianufactures of this 
country. 



UNITED STATES. 399 

The folloxmig Table exhibits the Value of each Species of 
Maniifacture, according to the Returns of the Marshals 
and Secretaries of the States and Territories. 

Dollars. 

1. Goods manufactured by the loom from cotton, avooI, 

flax, hemp, and silk, _ _ _ 09,497,057 

2. Spun goods of the same materials, - - 2,052,120 

3. Instruments and machinery manufactured, 186,650 
Carding, fulling, and floor cloths stamped 

by machinery, - - 5,957,816 

6,144,466 

4. Hats of wool, fur, &c. and of mixtures, - 4,."23,744 

5. Manufactures of iron, _ _ _ 14,364,526 

6. Manufactures of gold, silver, set work, mixedmetals, &c. 2,483,912 

7. Manufactures of lead, _ _ - 325,560 

8. Soap, tallow, candles, wax, and spermaceti, spring 

and whale oil, _ - . . 1,766,292 

9- Manufactures of hides and skins, - - 17,935,477 

10. Manufactures from seeds, - - - 858,509 

11. Gi-ain, fruit, and case liquors, distilledand fermented, 16,528,207 

12. Dry manufactures from grain, exclusively of flour, 

meal, &c. - - _ . 75,765 

13. Manufactures of wood, _ _ _ 5,554,708 

14. Manufactures of essences and oils, of and from wood, 179,1 50 

15. Refined or manufactured sugar, - - 1,415,724 

16. Manufactures of paper, pasteboard, cards, &c. 1,939,285 

17. Manufactures of marble, stone, and slate, - 462,115 

18. Glass manufactures, - - . 1,047,004 

19. Earthen manufactures, - « > 259,720 

20. Manufactures of tobacco, - - - 1,260,378 

21. Drugs, dye stuffs, paints, and dyeing, - 500,382 

22. Cables and cordage, _ _ - 4,243,168 

23. Manufactures of hair, _ _ - 129,731 

24. Various and miscellaneous manufactures, - 4,347, 6OI 



Total, - 127,694,602 



Tlie articles which have been considered as of a doubtful 
nature, in relation to manufactures, are work done by cotton 
presses, wheat-mills, grist-mills, fulling-mills, mills for pearled 
barley, wind-milJs, clover-seed mills, horse-mills, hemp-raills, 



400 VIEW OF THE 

mahogany saw-mills, common saw-mills, maple tree, sugar 
camps, cane planters'* sugar-works, also molasses, rosin and 
pitch, pot and pearl ashes, slate quarries, brick kilns, tiles, 
salt-pelre caves, indigo works, red ochre, yellow ochre, fishe- 
ries, lime-kilns, plaster of Paris mills, tobacco hogsheads. 

The total value of manufactures exported in 1812 was esti- 
mated at 1,841,000 dollars, and in 1817 at 3,847,693 dollars, 

COMMERCE. 

Mr. Pitkin, in his invaluable work upon the Statistics of the 
United States, has given the most ample information on this 
important subject; and to which we refer such of our readers 
as wish to obtain a minute and detailed account of the rise and 
progress of the different branches of trade. Another Ameri- 
can writer says, ' In commerce and navigation, the progress of 
the United States has been rapid beyond example. Besides 
the natural advantages of excellent harbours, extensive inland 
bays, and navigable rivers, it has been greatly in favour of 
their commerce, that it has not been fettered by monopolies or 
exclusive privileges. Goods or merchandise circulate through 
all the states free of duty, and a full drawback, or restitution 
of duties of importation, is granted upon articles exported to a 
foreign port, in the course of the year in which they have been 
imported. Commerce is considered by all those engaged in it 
as a most honourable employment. In the sea-port towns, 
the richest members of society are merchants. Youths of 
sixteen are sent abroad as factors, or supercargoes, to every 
commercial country, intrusted with the management of great 
concerns. Stimulated by the prospect of independence, they 
study the manufactures and markets of foreign states; the 
quality, value, and profits of every commercial aricle; while 
the youth of other countries, of the same age and rank, have 
not formed a thought of a provision for future life. Maritime 
and commercial business is executed with more celerity and 
less expence than in any other country. Vessels in the ports 
of the United States are laden and unladen in the course of a 
few days ; whilst in those of other countries, as many months 



UNITED STATES. 401 

are required for the same purposes, owing to tedious regula- 
tions and less enterprise. Merchant vessels are built and pre- 
pared for sea in the course of four or five months, and they 
sail faster than those of an}' other country. We have seen it 
announced in an American newspaper, that, on the 11th of 
April, 1814, a ship was launched at V^ergennes, on lake Cham- 
plain, of 150 feet keel, measuring 500 tons ; the timber of 
which was cut down in the forest the 2d of March preceding. 
The Peacock, of 18 guns, was built at New York in 18 days. 
The Wasp, at Portsmouth, in 20 days. The Superior, of 64 
guns, on lake Ontario, in 30 days The schooners constructed 
at Baltimore^ and known by the name of " pilot-boat schoon- 
ers,'" have often sailed with a cargo from an American to an 
English or French port in 17 or 18 days. The American 
seamen are extremely active and enterprising. Sloops of 60 
tons, and eleven men, have sailed from iUbany, (160 miles up 
the Hudson's river,) to the coast of China. The first of this 
description which arrived there was believed by the natives of 
the country to be the long-boat of a large merchant vessel, 
which they vainly looked for during several days. Nantucket 
sloops of 8(^ tons, with ten men, double cape Horn, and pur- 
sue the whale fishery in tlie South Seas. With similar ves- 
sels, numerous voyages have been made from the port of New 
York to the cold remons of southern Georoia, for the skins 
and oil of seals and sea-elephants. The American whalemen, 
after visiting the south-western coast of New Holland, and 
California, the Malouin, or Falkland, and other isles, touch 
for refreshments at the Cape of Good Hope, at the Sandwich 
islands, or ports of Chili. A commerce with the Fegee islands 
has been carried on by small vessels in trifling articles of hard- 
ware, which they exciianged for sandal-wood ; and with this 
article they proceeded to Canton, Avhere it was sold for the 
purpose of incense in religious ceremonies, at the rate oi" 400 
dollars per ton. The American pilot-boats have lately visited 
the ports of Santa Fe, Caraccas, and Buenos Ayres, for the 
commerce in dollars and raw materials. Without any pre- 
vious knowledge of routes, winds, tides, or harbours, the 
American whalemen and pilot -boat seamen have visited every 

3 E 



402 VIEW OF THE 

coast, and, to the astonishment of Europe, have made shorter 
voyages than old and experienced navigators. Falkland's 
island, which seemed too remote and romantic an object for 
the grasp of national ambition, is but a stage and resting place 
in the progress of their victorious industry, " No sea but 
what is vexed with their fisheries, no climate that is not wit- 
ness to their toils." Since the commencement of the war in 
1812, the American public and private armed vessels have 
visited every sea, from Kamschatka to the Irish channel, and 
have captured British merchant ships at the very mouths of 
British harbours. The great injury done to the commerce of 
England during that war, notwithstanding her powerful navy, 
bears strong testimony to the activity and enterprise of Ame- 
rican seamen. More than 1700 of her vessels were captured 
during the course of the war; and it has been stated, that 
only one out of three American vessels employed in commerce 
were taken by the English during the same period. The 
state of European warfare, from the year 1802 to 1812, gave 
to America almost all the carrying trade, or freight of the 
commercial world, valued at ten per cent, upon the capital. 
The United States also gained five per cent, by exchange, so 
that the annual profits of commerce and foreign navigation 
have been estimated at fifteen per cent, upon the capital.' 

Summary qftlie Value of Exports from each State in 1817. 



STATES. 


Domestic. 


Foreign. 


Total. 


New Hampshire, 


170,599 


26,825 


197,424 


Vermont, 


913,201 




913,201 


Massachusetts, 


5,908,416 


6,009,581 


11,927,997 


Rhode Island, 


577,911 


372,556 


950,467 


Connecticut, 


574,290 


29,849 


604,189 


New York, 


13,660,733 


5,046,700 


18,707,433 


New Jersey, 


5,849 




5,849 


Pennsylvania^ 


5,538,003 


3,197,589 


8,735,592 


Delaware, 


38,771 


6,083 


44,854 


Maryland, 


5,887,884 


3,046,046 


8,933,930 


District of Columbia, 1,689J02 


79,556 


1,768,658 



UNITED STATES. 403 

STATES. Domestic. Foreign. Total. 

Virginia, 5,561,238 60,204 5,621,442 

North Carolina, 955,211 1,369 956,580 

South Carolina, 9,944,343 428,270 10,372,613 

Georgia, 8,530,831 259,883 8,790,714 

Ohio, 7,749 7,749 

Louisiana, 8,241,254 783,558 9,024,812 

Michigan territory, 64,228 ^ 64,228 

Mississippi do. 43,887 43,887 

These exports in 1817 were : — 

Domestic. Foreign. 

To the northern countries of Europe, 3,828,563 2,790,408 

Dominions of the Netherlands, 3,397,775 2,387,543 

do. of Great Britain, 41,431,168 2,037,074 

do. of France, 9,717,423 2,717,395 

do. of Spain, 4,530,156 3,893,780 

do. of Portugal, 1,501,237 333,586 

To all other countries, 3,907,178 5,198,283 



68,313,500 19,358,069 



In the year 1808, the tonnage of the United States was 
1,227,000, and the number of seamen 50,000. In 1816, the 
tonnage amounted to 1,372,218. In the same year, the ton- 
nage of vessels built in the states amounted to 131,667. In 
1815, there was employed in the foreign trade 700,035 tons of 
American vessels, and 212,501 of foreign vessels, of which 
142,710 tons belonged to Britain. 

The proceeds of the customs in 1811 was 36,303,231 dol- 
lars ; but in 1816 it fell to 27,569,769 dollars. The nett re- 
venue of 3260 post-offices in 1816 amounted to 155,579 
dollars. The extent of the post roads was 48,976 miles. 



im VIEW OF THE 

Duties payable hy Law on all Goods, Wares, and Merchan- 
dise, imported into the United States of' America, commenc- 
ing on the 30th June, 1816. 

Alum, 1 dollar per cwt. 

Ale, beer, and porter, in bottles, 15 cents per gallon. 
Ale, beer, and porter, imported otherwise than in bottles, 10 do. 
Almonds, 3 cents per lb. 
Anchors, 1 dollar 50 cents per cwt. 
Animals imported for breed, free. 
Antimony, regains of, do. 

Apparatus, philosophical, instruments, books, maps, charts, 
statues, busts, casts, paintings, drawings, engravings, speci- 
mens of sculpture, cabinets of coins, gems, medals, and all 
other collections of antiquities, statuary, modelling, painting, 
drawing, etching, or engraving, specially imported by order, 
and for the use of any society, incorporated for philosophi- 
cal or literary purjioses, free. 
Arms, fire and side, and muskets, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Articles imported for the use of ihe United States, free. 
Brass wire, and articles of whicji brass is the material of chief 

value, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Brass, old^ free. 
Bristles, 3 cents per lb. 
Blank books, 30 per cent, ad val. 
Bonnets and caps for women, 30 do. 
Boots, 1 dollar 50 cents per pair. 
Bottles, black glass quart, 1 dollar 44 cents per gross. 
Bristol stones, or paste work, and all articles composed wholly 
or chiefly of gold, silver, pearl, and precious stones, 7-7 per 
cent, ad val. 
Buckles of all kinds, 20 do. 
Buttons, and button moles, 20 do. 
Brushes, 30 do. 
Burrstones, unwrought, free. 
Bullion, and gold and silver coin, free. 

Cabinet wares, and all manufactures of wood, 30 per cent, ad val. 
Cables and cordage, tarred, 3 cents per lb. 



UNITED STATES. 405 

Candles of tallow, 3 do. 

of wax and spermaceti, 6 do. 

Cannon, 20 per cent, ad val. 

Carriages of all descriptions, and parts thereof, 30 do. 

Cards, playing, 30 cents per pack. 

Canes, walking sticks, and whips, 30 per cent, ad val. 

Capers, 30 do. 

Cassia, Chinese, 6 cents per lb. 

Cheese, 9 do. 

China ware, 20 per cent, ad val. 

Chocolate, 3 cents per lb. 

Cinnamon and cloves, 25 do. 

Clay, un wrought, free. 

Coal, 5 cents per heaped bushel. 

Cocoa, 2 do. per lb. 

Coffee, 5 do. 

Cordage, untarred, yarns, twines, packthread, and seines, 4.do. 

Comfits, or sweetmeats, preserved in sugar or brandy, 30 per 

cent, ad val. 
Copper and brass in plates, pigs, and bars, suited to the 

sheathing of ships, free. 
Copper, articles manufactured of, or of which copper is the 

material of chief value, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Copper rods, bolts, spikes, or nails, aqd composition rods, 

bolts, spikes, or nails, 4 cents per lb. 
Copper, in any shape, for the use of the mint, free 
(Copper, old, fit only to be remanuf9,ctured, free. 
Copperas, 100 cents per cwt. 
Cork tree, bark of, manufactured, free. 
Cotton, 3 cents per lb. 
Cotton manufactures of all descriptions, or of which cotton is 

the material of chief value ; and on cotton twist, yarn, or 

thread, as follows : for 3 years next ensuing the 30th June» 

1816, a duty of 25 per cent, ad val. 
Cotton, after the expiration of the 3 years aforesaid, a duty of 

20 do. 
Cosmetics, 30 do. 
Clothing ready made, 30 do. 



406 VIEW 01" THE 

Currants, 3 cents per lb. 
Cutlery, 20 per cent, ad val. 

Drugs for dyeing, and materials for composing dyes, not sub- 
ject to other rates of duty, 7| do. 
Duck, Russia, not exceeding 52 archeens each piece, 2 dollars 

per piece. 
Duck, Ravens, do. 1 dollar 25 cents do. 
Duck, Holland, do. 2 dollars 50 cents do. 
Earthenware, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Embroidery, 7| do. 
Epaulettes, 7| do. 
Fans, 30 do. 

Feathers, and other ornaments for head dresses, 30 do. 
Figs, 3 cents per lb. 

Fish, foreign caught, 100 cents per quintal. 
Fish, mackerel, 1 dollar 50 cents per barrel. 
Fish, salmon, 200 cents do. 

all other pickled, 100 do. 

Flowers, artificial, 30 per cent, ad val. 

Floorcloths, painted, 30 do. 

Furs, of every kind, undressed, free. 

Glass, window, not above 8 by 10 inches, 2 dollars 50 cents 

per 100 square feet. 
Glass, not above 10 by 12, 2 dollars 70 cents do. 
Glass, above 10 by 12, 3 dollars 25 cents do. 
Gold leaf, 15 per cent, ad val. 
Goods, wares, and merchandise, not free, and not subject to 

any other rate of duty, 15 do. 
Glue, 5 cents per lb. 
Gunpowder, 8 do. 

Gum Arabic, and gum Senegal, 7| per cent, ad val. 
Hairpowder, 8 cents per lb. 
Hats or caps of wool, fur, leather, chip, straw, or silk, 30 pei 

cent, ad val. 
Hemp, 15 per cent, ad val. 
Hides and skins, raw, free. 
Indigo, 15 cents per lb. 
Iron or steel ware, not exceeding No, 18, 5 do. 



UNITED STATES. 407 

Iron or steel ware, over No. 18, 9 do. 

Iron sheets, rods, and hoops, 2 dollars 50 cents per cwt. 

Iron bars and bolts, excepting iron manufactured by rolling, 

45 cents do. 
Iron bars and bolts when manufactured by rolling, and on 

anchors, 1 dollar 50 cents do. 
Iron, cast, and all manufactures of which iron is the material 

of chief value, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Jewellery, 7^ do. 
Laces, 7 1 do. 



of gold and silver, 7^ do. 

Lace veils, lace shawls, or shades of thread or silk, 7^ do. 

Lapis calaminaris, free. 

Leather, and all manufactures of leather, or of which leather 

is the material of chief value, 30 per cent, ad val. 
Lead in pigs, bars, or sheets, 1 cent per lb. 
Lead, manufactures of, or of which lead is the chief article, 

20 per cent, ad val. 
Lead, red and white, dry, or ground in oil, 3 cents per lb. 
Mace, loo cents per lb. 
Mats of grass or flags, 30 per cent, ad val. 
Millinery of all sorts, 30 do. 
Molasses, 5 cents per gallon. 
Mustard, 30 per cent, ad val. 
Nails, 3 cents per lb. 
Needles, 2() per cent, ad val. 
Nutmegs, 60 cents per lb. 
Ochre, dry, 1 cent per lb. 

in oil, 1 1 cent. 

Oil, olive, in cask, 25 cents per gallon. 
Oil, spermaceti, foreign fishing, 25 do. 
Oil, whale and other fish, do. 15 do. 
Olives, and sallad oil, 30 per cent, ad val. 
Paper of every description, 30 do. 
Paper hangings, 3'^ do. 
Parchment and pasteb^mrds, 30 do. 
Pewter manufactures, 2 do. 
old, free. 



408 VIEW OF THE 

Pepper, 8 cents per lb. 

Perfumes, washes, balsams, 30 per cent, ad val. 

Pimento, 6 cents per lb. 

Pickles, 30 per cent, ad val. 

Pins, 20 do. 

Plums and prunes, 3 cents per lb. 

Plaster' of Paris, fi*ee. 

Porcelain and glass manufactures, other than window glass, 

and black quart bottles, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Precious stones and pearls of all kinds, set or not set, 7| do. 
Prussian blue, 20 do. 

Raisins, Muscatel, and raisins in jars and boxes, 3 cents per lb. 
Raisins, other kinds of, 2 do. 
Rags of any kind of cloth, free. 
Saddles, bridles, and harness, 30 per cent, ad val. 
Salt, 20 cents per bushel of 56 lb. 
Saltpetre, 7| per cent, ad val. 
Sail or hempen cloth, except Russian and German linen, and 

duck, 20 do. 
Segars, 2 dollars 50 cents per lOOO. 
Shoes and slippers of silk, 30 cents per pair. 
Shoes and slippers of leather, 25 do. 
Shoes and slippers for children, 15 do. 
Shot manufactured of lead, 2 cents per lb. 
Specimens in natural history, botany, mineralogy, anatomical 

preparations, models of machinery, and other inventions., 

plants, and trees, free. 
Silver ware, 7^ per cent, ad val. 

lace, 7^ do. 

Snuff, 12 cents per lb. 

Spirits from grain, first proof, 42 cents per gallon. 

Spirits from grain, second proof, 45 do. 

Spirits from grain, third proof, 48 do. 

Spirits from grain, fourth proof, 52 do. 

Spirits from grain, fifth proof, 6*0 do. 

Spirits from grain, above fifth proof, 75 do. 

From other materials, first and second proof, 38 do. 

From other materials, third proof, 42 do. 



UNITED STATES. 4od 

Fi'om other materials, fourth proof, 48 do. 

From other materials, fifth proof, 57 do. 

From other materials, above fifth proof, 70 do. 

Spikes, 2 cents per lb. 

Steel, 1 dollar per cwt. 

manufactures, or of which steel is the article of chief 

value, 20 per cent, ad val. 

Stockings of wool or cotton, 20 do. 

Stoneware, 20 do. 

Soap, 3 cents per lb. 

Sugar, brown, 3 do. 

— white, clayed, or powdered, 4 do. 

lump, 10 do. 

loaf, and sugar-candy, 12 do. 

Sulphur, or brimstone, free. 

Tallow, 1 cent per lb. 

Teas from China in ships or vessels of the United States, 

Tea, Boliea, 12 cents per lb. 

Tea, Souchong, and other black, 25 do. 

Tea, imperial, gunpowder, and gomee, 50 do. 

Tea, hyson, and young hyson, 40 do. 

Tea, hyson, skin, and other green, 28 do. 

Teas from any other place, or in any other than ships or ves- 
sels of the United States, 

Tea, Bohea, 14 do. 

Tea, Souchong, and other black, 34 do. 

Tea, imperial, gunpowder, and gomee, 68 do. 

Tea, hyson, and young hyson, 56 do. 

Tea, hyson, skin, and other green, 38 do. 

Tin manufactures, or of which tin is the material of chief 

value, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Tin in pigs or bars, free. 
Tobacco manufactured other than s^nuff and segars, 10 cents 

per lb. 
Types for printing, 20 per cent, ad val. 
Umbrellas and parasols, or sticks and frames for either, 30 

per cent, ad val. 
Vellum, 30 do. 

18 3 F 



410 VIEW OF THE 

Wafers, 30 do. 

Wares, gilt, plated, and japanned, 20 per cent, ad vah 

Watches, gold, silver, and other, and parts of watches, 7| do. 

Wearing apparel, and other personal baggage in actual use, 
and the implements or tools of trade of persons arriving in 
the United States, free. 

Wines, Madeira, Burgundy, Champaigne, Rhenish, and To- 
kay, loo cents per gallon. 

Wines, Sherry and St. Lucar, 60 do. 

Wines, on other wine not enumerated, when imported in 
bottles or cases, 70 do. 

Wines, Lisbon, Oporto, and other wines of Portugal and 
Sicily, 50 do. 

Wines, Teneriffe, Fayal, and other wines of the Western 
islands, 40 do. 

Wine, all other, when imported otherwise than in ^ases and 
bottles, 25 do. 

Whiting and Paris white, 1 cent per lb. 

Wood, unmanufactured, of any kind, free. 

Wood, Nicaragua, Barilla, Brazil-wood, Brazilletto, red-wood, 
cam-wood, fustic, log-wood, and other dye-woods, free. 

Woollen manufactures of all descriptions, or of which wool is 
the material of chief value, excepting blankets, woollen rags, 
and worsted or stuff goods, after the SOth June, 1816, un- 
til the SOth June, 1819, pay a duty of 25 per cent, ad val. 

Wood, on tlie same after June, 1819, 20 dp. 

Zinc, teutanague, or spelter, free. 

A commercial treaty, formed between England and the 
United States, was signed the 3d of July, 1815, to remain in 
force during four years, according to which each country is to 
enjoy reciprocal freedom of commerce. No higher duties to 
be imposed than those which extend to all other nations, in 
relation to articles imported and exported, and the vessels 
which carry them to be subject to the same duties, and en- 
titled to the same bounties. Drawbacks to a foreign nation 
to be regulated by the parties respectively. The trade with 
the East Indies to be free for American vessels, which are to 



UNITED STATES. 411 

be treated as vessels of the most favoured nation, entitled to 
go from one port to another witli the original cargo, or part 
thereof, and to touch for refreshments at the Cape of Good 
Hope, the island of St. Helena, or other places in the African 
or Indian seas. The American trade to be excluded from the 
West Indies ; and the privilege of fishing, and of drying the 
fish within the British jurisdiction, granted by the treaty of 
peace of 1783, to cease entirely. With regard to consuls, the 
laws and statutes of each country to be strictly observed. 
The consul to be approved or admitted by the government to 
which he is sent, but subject to its laws, and punishable for 
illegal or improper conduct; or to be sent back, the oftelided 
government assigning to the other the reasons for this proceed- 
ing ; each country reserving, at pleasure, particular places free 
from consular residence. The contracting parties to put an 
end to hostilities with the Indians, and to restore them all the 
possessions, rights, and privileges, which they enjoyed in 1811, 
provided they observe a peaceable conduct. 

An act concerning the navigation of the United States, 
sanctioned by congress the 1st of March, 1817, and to operate 
from the 1st of October following, is as follows: No goods, 
wares, or merchandise, are to be imported into the United 
States from any foreign port or place, except in vessels of the 
United States, or in foreign vessels truly and wholly belonging 
to the citizens or subjects of that country of which the goods 
are the growth, production, or manufacture, or from which 
such goods, wares, or merchandise, can only be, or most 
usually are, first shipped for transportation. But this regula- 
tion is not to extend to the vessels of any foreign nation which, 
has not adopted a similar regulation. The infringement of 
this act to involve the forfeiture of the vessel and cargo. 2. 
The bounty and allowance granted to the owners of boats and 
vessels engaged in the fisheries to be paid to those only of 
which the officers, and at least three-fourths of the crew, are 
citizens of the United States, or persons not the subjects of 
any foreign prince or state. The proof to be exhibited to the 
collector of the district to which the boat or vessel belongs. 
3, No goods, wares, or merchandise, to be imported in foreign 



41^ VIEW OF THE 

vessels from one port of the United States to another. 4. A 
duty of 50 cents per ton to be paid upon every ship or vessel 
of the United States which shall be entei'ed in the district of 
one state from that of another. The exceptions are : 1. An 
adjoining state on the sea-coast, or a navigable river or lake. 
2. Coasting vessels going from Long island, in the state of 
New York, to the state of Rhode island, or the contrary, with 
a cargo taken in one state to be delivered in another. 8. Ves- 
sels having a license to trade between the different districts, or 
to carry on the bank or whale fisheries more than once a year. 
4. If it be proved, to the satisfaction of the collector, that 
three-fourths of the crew are American citizens, or persons not 
the subjects of any foreign prince or state, the duty to be only 
fcix cents per ton. 5. Every ship or vessel entered in the 
United States from any foreign port or place, of which the 
officers, and at least two-thirds of the crew, are not proven to 
be American citizens, or persons not the subjects of any fo- 
reign prince or state, to pay 50 cents per ton. In a circular 
letter, issued from the treasury department, for the purpose of 
explaining and enforcing this measure, ' the term country is 
considered as embracing all the possessions of a foreign state, 
of which the productions and manufactures may be imported 
into the United States in vessels owned by the citizens or sub- 
jects of such state, without regard to their place of residence 
within its possessions.' Gold and silver coin and bullion are 
not considered as goods, wares, and merchandise ; and may be 
imported in foreign vessels, without regard to the place of 
production or coinage. 

The chambers of commerce of the ports of the United States 
receive and pass gold and silver coin at the rates established 
by the banks. Bills of exchange drawn upon any part of Eu- 
rope, and returned protested for non-payment, are paid on 
demand, with 20 per cent, of damages, at the current exchange 
then given for bills on the place drawn upon. Bills of ex- 
change drawn upon any of the West India islands, Newfound- 
land, or the foreign possessions in America, and returned 
protested for non-payment, are subject to ten per cent, da- 
mages on demand, with the amount of the bill. When no 



UNITED STATES. 413 

special agreement exists, the following commissions are charged : 
Inland Commissions.— On sales, exclusive of storage, two and 
a half per cent, ; on returns from a state to any part of the 
United States, two and a half per cent. Foreign Commis- 
sions. — On sales, exclusive of storage, five per cent. ; on re- 
turns, if in produce, five ; on returns, if in cash or bills, two 
and a half; on making insurance, one half; on recovering 
losses, two and a half; on outfit of vessel, five; on soliciting 
and procuring freight, five ; on collecting freight, two and a 
half 

In 1817, the value of flour and wheat exported was 
17,968,000 dollars; the produce of the forests, 6,484,000 
dollars ; the cotton of domestic growth, 22,628,000 dollars ; 
the tobacco, 9,511,000 dollars; and the produce of the sea, 
1,671,000 dollars. 

CANALS AND TURNPIKE ROADS. 

The United States possess the advantages of inland naviga- 
tion in a remarkable degree. Many of the large rivers are 
navigable almost to their sources, and some of them, v^'liich 
have their efflux at points remote from one another, are (inly 
separated by short portages at particular parts of their course. 
Several of the rivers have a sufficient depth of water generally 
for boats, but have their channels obstructed by rocks and 
falls at certain places. By running canals over the spaces 
where these portages and obstructions occur, the most discant 
sections of the Union may be united by a system of water 
communications; and where this is impracticable, the trans- 
portation of commodities may still be much facilitated oy 
forming good roads. This subject occupied much attention 
in the early part of ]\Ir. Jefferson's administration ; and Mr. 
Gallatin, at the request of the senate, dre(V up a report on 
this subject, which was presented to that body in 1808. The 
outlines of the plan of internal communication suggested in 
the report are as follows : 

1. Canals fronj north to south, in a direction parallel to the 
sea-coast, which would open a communication for sea-vessel. 



414 VIEW OF THE 

from Massachusetts to North Carolina, cxtendiDg along all 
the principal capes, except cape Fear, a distance of more than 
two-thirds of the Atlantic coast. The expence is estimated at 
three millions of dollars. 

2. A great turnpike road from Maine to Georgia, extending 
along the Atlantic coast, a distance of 1600 miles. The ex- 
pences are calculated at 3000 dollars per mile, making, with 
the former charge, 7,800,000 dollars. 

3. A communication Irom east to west across the mountains, 
between the Atlantic and western rivers ; and, for this pur- 
pose, to improve the navigation of the great Atlantic rivers, 
by constructing parallel canals and locks when necessary. 
The expence is estimated at 1,500,000 dollars. It is aliso 
proposed to form four turnpike roads from the four great 
western rivers, the Alleghany, IMonongahela, Kenhawa, and 
Tennessee, to the nearest correspcmding Atlantic rivers, to the 
Susquehannah, or Juniata, the Patomak, James river, and 
either the Santee or Savannah. The distance of each route is 
about 100 miles, which, at the estimated expence of 7000 dol- 
lars per mile, (the road being through a mountainous country,) 
amounts to 2,800,000 dollars. The construction of a canal 

alons the falls of the Ohio is also recommended, and a corn- 
er ^ 

pany has lately been incorporated for carrying it through. 
The construction of roads to Detroit, St. Louis, and New Or- 
leans, is also recommended, of which the cost is estimated at 
SOOjOOO dollars ; the whole expence of all this extent of com- 
munication amounting to 4,800,000 dollars. 

4. Inland navigation, in a northern and north-western direc- 
tion, between the Atlantic sea-coast and the great lakes, and 
the St. Lawrence, of which the expence is estimated at 
12,600,000 dollars. The chain of mountains known by the 
name of Alleghany, or Apalaches, of which the mean breadth 
is somewhat more tlian 100 miles, and their elevation about 
3000 feet above the level of the sea, render a direct conimuni- 
cation impracticable ; but, on the north, it can easily be formed 
by the circuitous route of the Mohawk valley and lake Onta- 
rio; and, on the south, by the way of Georgia and the rivers 
which open on the gulf of Mexico. The expence of the in^ 



UNITED STATES. 415 

land navigation between the North river and lake Champlain 
is estimated at 800,000 dollars ; canals from the North river 
to lake Ontario at 2,200,000 dollars; canals along the falls 
and rapids of Niagara, opening a sloop navigation from lake 
Ontario to tlie upper lakes as far as the extremities of lake 
Michigan, a million of dollars; in all, four millions of dollars. 
The whole amount for general improvements is estimated at 
16,600,000 dollars; and for those of a local nature, at 
3,400,000; making an aggregate of twenty millions of 'dol- 
lars. It has been suggested, that, in time of peace, this great 
plan could easily be executed by the annual appropriation of 
two millions of dollars of the existing revenues for the space of 
ten years. 

Of Turnpike Roads.— S'mce the year 1800, a great number 
of turnpike roads have been formed, particularly in the north- 
ern, eastern, and llie middle stales. The capital of all the 
turnpikes and canals in the United States, in 18()9, was 
11,500,000 dollars; that of toll bridges, 5,600,000 dollars. 
In 1813 the post-master-general of the United States was au- 
thorised, by an act of congress, to contract for the reo-ular 
transportation of the mail in steam-boats, provided that the 
expence do not exceed what is paid for it by stages on the ad- 
jacent post-roads, taking into consideration distance, expedi- 
tion, and frequency. In 1801, there were 957 post-offices; 
m 1809, 2000. At the former period, the length of post-roads 
was 21,840, at the latter, 34,000 miles. In 1801, the amount 
of the yearly transportation of mails in the United States was 
3,057,964 miles ; in 1809, 4,962,516. The post-roads, with- 
in this interval, have increased nearly 45 per cent., and the 
establishment of mail coaches nearly 70 per cent. 

POST-OFFICE KSTABI.ISHilEXT. 

The general post-office is established at Washington, the 
seat of the federal government, and is under the direction of a 
post-master-general, who is authorised to establish branches in 
such places as he may deem expedient. In his report it is 
observed, that the expences of the office, in 1808 and 1809, 



416 VIEW OP THE 

during the suspension of foreign commerce, had exceeded the 
amount of postage due to the United States, by nearly 7000 
dollars, which was defrayed out of the proceeds of previous 
years. 

The two great postage roads are, 1. That which extends 
from Robinstown, on the north-eastern extremity of the coast 
of the United States, lo St. Mary's, on the south-eastern ex- 
tremity; and, 2. The road which extends from Washington 
to New Orleans. The length of the first is 1733,- that of the 
second, 1233 miles. 

The mail travels on the great roads at the rate of from 60 
to 120 miles a day ; on the cross roads its progress is about 
40 miles in the same time. 

The following regulations concerning this establishment 
were adopted by an act of the American congress, on the 9th 
of April, 1816. 

Rates of Poslagc-'-hetter of one sheet. 



MUes. 
30 


Cents. 

6 


80 


10 


150 


12i 


400 


18i 




25 



Any greater distance. 

Double letter, the double of those rates. 

Triple letter, the triple. 

Miles. 
The yearly transportation of the mail in stages amounts to 2,41 1,760 
Ditto on sulkies and on horseback, 3,180,892 

Total, 5,592,652 

Averaging one office to fifteen miles and a half of post-road, 

FEDERAL GOVERNMENT. 

The president and vice-president of the United States are 
elected for the term of four years, commencing on the 4th day 
of March, and necessarily remain at Washington during the 
session of congress ; but, during the recess, they retire to their 
usual places of residence. The president, when at the seat of 
government, lives in the house destined for him, which is fur- 



UNITED STATES. 417 

nished at the expence of the nation. The vice-president, who 
is president of the senate, has no similar mark of distinction, 
but lodges at an inn, or private house, hke other members ot 
congress. The yearly salary of the former is 25,000 dollars ; 
that of the latter 5000 only ; but he is not subject to any ex- 
traordinary expence, while the president, according to esta- 
blished custom, spends more than his salary in the expences 
of his table. 

In case of the death, resignation, or removal of the president 
from office, his powers devolve upon the vice-president. 

Tiie president is commander-in-chief of the army and navy 
of tlie United States, and also of the militia, when called into 
actual service. 

He is authorised to require, when he thinks proper, the 
written opinion of any of the chief officers of the executive de- 
partments, upon any subject which has relation to the duties 
of their respective offices. 

Except in cases of impeachment, he is authorised to grant 
reprieves and pardons for offences against the United States. 

He is empowered, by and with the advice and consent oi 
the senate, to make treaties, to appoint ambassadors, ministers, 
and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and all military and 
other officers, whose appointments are not otherwise provided 
for by law. His appointment or decision must be approved 
by two-thirds of the senators present in congress. 

He has also power to fill up vacancies during the recess of 
the senate, which, during the next session, are submitted to 
their decision. 

On extraordinary occasions, he may 'convene or adjourn 
either or both houses of congress. 

He is authorised by usage, though not by the constitution, 
to suspend, annul, or revoke the powers of a minister, consul, 
or other officer, without the advice of the senate, and even 
without giving any reason for such suspension or removal. 
The president himself, or any other officer of the United 
States, 'may be removed from office for treason, bribery, or 
otlier high crimes and misdemeanour.^, for wbi^h. they must 
previously be im})cached and convicted. 

3 G 



il8 VIEW OF THE 

All commissions are signed by the president and secretary 
of state. 

The national council is composed of these two officers, and 
the heads of the treasury, war, navy, and post-office esta- 
blishment. 

The Congress of the United States, in whom all legislative 
powers are vested, consists of a senate and house of represen- 
tatives. 

The members of the house of' representatives are chosen by 
the people every second year. They must have attained the 
age of 25, and been citizens of the United States during the 
same space of time, and inhabitants of the state in which they 
are elected. The number of representatives for the year 1815 
is 187, or nearly one representative for every 40,000 persons, 
accoi'ding to the last census. When the number shall amount 
to 200, it is so regulated, that there shall not be more than 
one for every 50,000 persons. 

Vacancies are filled by writs of election, issued by the exe- 
cutive authority. 

The house of representatives choose their speaker and other 
officers, and have the sole power of impeachment. 

The senate is composed of two senators from each state, 
chosen by the legislature of that state for the term of six 
years; and the seats are so vacated, that one-third are chosen 
everv second year. A senator must be 30 years of age, nine 
years a citizen of the United States, and an inhabitant of the 
state in which he is elected. The present number of senators 
is 88. 

The president of the senate has no vote, unless the votes be 
equally divided. 

The senate has the sole power of trying all impeachments. 
In case of the trial of the chief magistrate, the chief justice is 
to preside. 

Senators and members of the house of representatives re- 
ceive a compensation of eight dollars per day during the ses- 
sion, besides travelling expences, fixed at the rate of a day's 
pay for every 20 miles. 



UNITED STATES. 419 

Pay of the Officers of the General Gove?"nment. — In pursu- 
auce of a resolution of congress, of the S7th of April, 1816, 
the secretary of state is required to compile and print, once in 
every two years, a register of all officers and agents, civil, mi- 
litary, and naval, in the service of the United States, exhibit- 
ing the amount of compensation, pay, and emoluments allowed 
to each, the state or country in which he was born, and the 
place of employment. The secretary of the navy is to furnish 
the name, force, and condition of all the ships and vessels be- 
longing to the United States, and the place and date of their 
construction. This register is to be made up to the last day 
of September of each year, before the opening of the new con- 
gress. Five hundred copies are to be printed, and to be dis- 
tributed among the members of congress and heads of the 
departments of the general government. 

This work is entitled, A Register of Officers and Agents, 
Civil, Military, and Naval, in the service of the United States, 
on the 30th of September, (1816 ;) together with the names, 
force, and condition of all the Ships and Vessels belonging to 
the United States, and when and where built. 

Dollars per an. Dollars per an. 

President of the United Additional Accountant, 2,000 

States, - - 25,000 Superintendent-general of 
Vice president, - 5,000 military supplies, 3,000 
Secretary of state, 5,000 Secretary of navy, 4,500 
Secretary of the treasury, 5,000 Three navy commission- 
Comptroller, - 3,500 ers, each, - 3,500 
Auditor, - - 3,000 Accountant of navy, 2,300 
Register, - 3,000 Postmaster-general, 3,000 
Treasurer, - 3,000 Secretary of senate, 3,000 
Commissioner of revenue, 3,000 Clerk of house of repres. 3,000 
Commissioner of landoffice, 3,000 Commissioner of claims, 2,000 
Secretary of war departm. 4,500 Superintendent of Indian 
Paymaster-general, 2,500 trade, - - 2,000 
Accountant, - 2,000 

Dollars per an. 
The governors of the four territories, Mississippi, Missouri, 

Illinois, and Michigan, each, - _ , 2,000 

The secretaries, each , - , . 1,000 



420 VIEW OF THE 

Dollars per an. 
Chief justice, - - - - „ 4,000 

Six associate justices, - - _ _ 3,500 

Attorney-general, - ~ - - - 3,000 

Clerk, -_._.- fees, &c. 

Seven ambassadors to the following states : — England, France^ 
Russia, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, and Sweden, each 9000 
dollars, with an allowance of 9000 for outfit. Six secretaries of 
legation, each 2000 dollars. 

Dollars per an. 
Consul at London, _ - > _ 2,000 

Consul in France, ----- 2,000 

Consul-general in Denmark, _ _ _ 2,000 

Consul-general in Barbary, - - - 4,000 

Three consuls ditto, each - - - - 2,000 

Director of the mint, - - - - 2,000 

Commissioners of loans, five in number, whose pay is from 500 
to upwards of 2000 dollars. Each has two oi* three clerks. Their 
pay varies from 500 to 1000 dollars. 

Collectors of customs, 98 in number, with salaries proportionate 
to the trade of the place, from 150 to upwards of 7000 dollars. 

TEKKITORIAL GOVERNMENTS. 

By tlie constitution and certain laws of the congress of the 
United States, a territory cannot be admitted into the Ameri- 
can union until its population amounts to 60,000 free inhabit- 
ants. In the mean time, it is subject to a provisional form of 
government prescribed by law, which, though not emanating 
entirely from the choice of the inhabitants, still does not de- 
prive them of the personal rights and privileges of freemen. 
The administration of the government of the territory is en- 
trusted to a governor, appointed by the president and congress, 
and invested with extensive powers, similar to those of a Eu- 
ropean viceroy, for the protection of the interests of the United 
States, and partfcularly the observance of strict faith towards 
the Indians, in the exchange of commodities and the purchase 
of their lands. The act or ordinance of congress, of the 13th 
July, 1787, for the government of the territory north-west of 
the river Ohio, has served as a model for the organization of 



UNITED STATES. 421 

the temporary governments of new territories established since 
that epoch. 

Governor. — By this act, the congress reserved to itself the 
power of appointing a governor for the term of three years, 
unless revoked before the expiration of that time, who is to 
reside in the district, and have therein a freehold estate of 
1000 acres of land. 

Secretary. — The secretary, also appointed by congress for 
the term of four years, with a commission liable to be revoked, 
was likewise obliged to reside in the district, and to have a 
freehold estate therein of 500 acres of land. His duty is to 
keep and preserve the public records, the acts and laws of the 
leorislature, and the proceedings of the governor in his execu- 
tive department, and to transmit authentic copies of all these 
documents, every six months, to the secretary of congress. 

The judicial authority is vested in a court consisting of 
three judges, whose commissions continue in force during 
ffood behaviour. Any two of them form a court with a com- 
mon law jurisdiction. It is required that each judge shall 
reside in the district, and be proprietor of a freehold estate of 
500 acres of land, while in the exercise of his office. The go- 
vernor and judges are authorised to adopt and pvit in force in 
the district, such laws of the original states, criminal and civil, 
as they may think suited to its circumstances, which are to 
continue until the organization of the general assembly, unless 
disapproved of by congress. The governor, who is command- 
er-in-chief of the militia, is empowered to appoint and grant 
commissions to all officers therein, except general officers, who 
are appointed and commissioned by congress. The governor 
is authorised to appoint such magistrates and other civil offi- 
cers, in each county or township, as he might judge necessary, 
until the organization of the general assembly, by which their 
}K)\\crs and diuies are to be regulated and defined. He is 
also authorised to make proper divisions of the district into 
counties and townships, for the execution of civil and criminal 
process. The free white male inhabitants of full age, as soon 
as their number amounts to 5000, are authorised to elect re- 
presentatives in their counties or townships, to represent them 



¥22 VIEW OF THE 

in the general assembly of the territory, in the proportion of 
one representative for every 500 inhabitants, until their num- 
ber exceed 26 ; after which, their number and proportion are 
regulated by the legislature. To be eligible to this office, the 
person must have been a citizen of one of the United States, 
and a resident in the district, and if he has resided three years 
therein, the quality of citizen is dispensed with ; but in either 
case, he must be proprietor, in fee simple, of 200 acres of land 
within the territory. To be an elector, the following qualifi- 
cations are required : he must be a freeholder in the district, 
of 50 acres of land, a resident thereof, and a citizen of one of 
the states, or, what is considered as equivalent, resident for 
two years therein. The representatives are elected for the 
term of two years; and in case of death, or removal from 
office, their place is supplied for the residue of the term by a 
writ from the governor to this effect. The general assembly, 
or legislature, consists of a governor, legislative council, and a 
house of representatives. The legislative council to consist of 
five members, elected for five years, unless sooner removed by 
congress, three of whom form a quorum. The members of 
the council are nominated in the following manner : The re- 
presentatives, after their election, assemble at a certain place 
indicated by the governor, and nominate ten persons, residents 
in the district, each possessed of a freehold of 500 acres of 
land, whose names are returned to congress, by whom five are 
appointed to serve as members for the council for the term of 
five years ; and vacancies, in consequence of death or removal 
from office, are supplied by two persons nominated by the 
house of representatives, one of whom is appointed and com- 
missioned by congress for the rest of the term. All bills, 
^fter having passed by a majority in the house, and also in 
the council, are referred to the governor for his assent, without 
which they remain without effect. This general assembly is 
convened, prorogued, and dissolved by the governor, who is 
obliged to take an oath or declaration of fidelity before the 
president of congress, and himself to require the same of all 
officers appointed in the district. The legislature and council 
are authorised to elect, by jtjint ballot, a delegate to congress, 



UNITED STATES. 423 

with the right of debating, but not of vojing therein, during 
this temporary government. 

JUDICIARY. 

The judiciary syslem qf the United States is as follows: 
The sujjreme court of the United States consists of a chief 
judge, and six associate judges. This court holds a session 
annually, at the city of Washington. The states of the Union 
form districts, (with the exception of Massachusetts and Ten- 
nessee, each of which is divided into two,) 20 in number, and 
in every one of these districts there is a court named the Dis- 
trict Court, except the state of Mew York, which has two, 
and East and West Tennessee, which have but one. These 
courts are held four times a year, at the two principal towns 
of the district alternately, except in the states of Pennsylvania 
and Maryland, where they are always held at tlie chief town 
of each. The United States are also divided into seven dis- 
tricts, and in each division there is a circuit court, which is 
held twice a year, under the direction of a judge of the su- 
preme court, or the assot'ia;e judge residing within the district, 
and the judge of that district wjiere the court is holden. The 
clerk of each district court is also clerk of the circuit court 
within the district. The courts are created and organized by « 
the legislature. The federal judges are appointed by the ex- 
ecutive, with the approbation of the senate, and are not to be 
removed from office during good behaviour. The judges^ 
after their appointment, allot themselves as they think proper, 
at the session succeeding their appointment; otherwise, they 
are allotted by the president of the United States until another 
allotment is made. The di.>trict and territorial judges are 
obliged, by act of congress, to reside within their districts, and 
not to exercise the profession or employment of attorney or 
lawyer. The infraction of this act constitutes a high misde- 
meanour. There is an attorney -general of the United States, 
who is the public prosecutor before the supreme court. In 
each district there is also an attorney and marshal, appointed 
by, and removable at the pleasure of the president. The su- 



424. VIEW OF THE 

pernumerary marshals and district attorneys have been dk- 
continued. The district attorney is the pubUc prosecutor 
before the circuit and district courts. The marshal attends 
these courts, in relation to which he has the powers of a she- 
riff. The clerks of the courts are appointed by the respective 
courts. 

Men in the profession of the law are very numerous in the 
States, and are, in general, well supported. This arises from 
the prevalence of a litigious spirit, which extends from the 
towns to the country, and has even reached new establishments 
in the bosom of the woods. This unfortunate disposition is 
thus described by an accurate and faithful observer, the late 
judge Cooper, in his 'History of the First Settlements in the 
Western Counties of New York :' — ' The Scotch succeed in 
the woods, or elsewhere, being frugal, cautious in their bar- 
gains, living within their means, and punctual in their en- 
gagements. If a Scotsman kills a calf, he will take the best 
part of it to market, and husband up the price of it; if he 
consumes any part' at home, it will be the coarsest and the 
cheapest. The American will eat the best part himself, and 
if he sells any, will lay out the money upon some article of 
show. The odds are, that when the Scotsman buys a cow, he 
pays ready money, and has her for a low price. The Ameri- 
can pays with his note, gives more, and is often sued for the 
payment. AVhen this happens, his cause comes to be tried 
before the squire, and six jurors empannelled. Here much 
pettifogging skill is displayed. If the defendant has address 
enough to procure a note, bond, or other matter to be offered 
in set-off, he perhaps involves his adversary in costs to the 
amount of three or four dollars, and gains celebrity for hi?; 
dexterity and finesse. This cunning talent, which they call 
outwitting, gives him such reputation and lead, that he stands 
fair to be chosen a petty town-officer. It is to be regretted 
that so mischievous a spirit of litigation should be encouraged 
by some of the justices, who, for the sake of a paltry fee, for- 
get the great duty of their office, that of preserving peace; 
and that it should have increased, as it has done of late years, 
to a shameful extent. I have known morethan 100 precepts 



UNITED STATES. 425 

issued in one day by some of these squires. A magistrate 
who becomes so ready an instrument of contention, may be 
considered as a living calamity. Some, however, I have 
known of a quite different stamp, who have carried the spirit 
of peace-making and benevolence so far, as to leave their own 
business, and travel miles for the sake of reconciling parties, 
and putting an end to quarrels, and who sought for no other 
reward than the satisfaction of doing good.' 

PUBLIC REVENUE AND NATIONAL DEBT. 

In time of peace the revenue of the United States is derived 
from two sources : 1st, From indirect taxes, or duties on ton- 
nage, and on goods, wares, and merchandise, at the time and 
place of their importation. 2d, From the sale of public lands. 
In a state of free commercial intercourse, the first formed the 
great source of revenue, and was more than adequate to all 
the wants of the government ; but in a state of war, the sup- 
ply from this source was greatly diminished, and recourse was 
had to other sources ; — to treasury notes, loans, internal taxes, 
and an increase of duties on imported articles. The plan of 
finance proposed at the commencement of the war was to pro- 
vide for the expences of the war by loans, and to make the 
yearly revenue sufficient to defray the ordinary expences of 
the goverinnent, to pay the interest of the existing debt, and 
that of future loans. Bui the commercial restrictions, the 
stoppage of payment in speck by the banks, and its exporta- 
tion and concealment, destroyed the circulation of notes, para- 
lyzed the fiscal operations of the government, and obliged it to 
have recourse to new taxes. 

In the summer of 1813, duties wore laid on the following 
articles, to commence 1st January, 1814; and for the purpose 
of collecting them, each state was divided into collection 
districts : 

1. Duties on licences for stills and boilers. 

2. Duties on carriages for the conveyance of persons. 

3. Duties on licences to retailers of foreign merchandise, 
wines, and spirituous liquors. 

S H 



426 VIEW OF THE 

4. Duties on sales by auction. 

5. Duties on refined sugar. 

6. Duties on stamped paper of a certain description. 

In the session of 1814-15, duties were laid on the following 
manufactured articles : pig-iron, castings, bar and rolled iron, 
nails, candles, hats, caps, umbrellas and parasols, paper, cards, 
saddles and bridles, boots and shoes, beer, ale, and porter, 
leather, plate, jewellery, and on household furniture, gold and 
silver watches. After the termination of the war, the most of 
these duties were repealed; those remaining in 1817 were on 
licences for stills and boilers, on licences to retailers, on car- 
riages, on refined sugar, on sales by auction, on stamp paper 
and bank notes. 

On the 2d August, 1813, a direct tax of three millions was 
laid on ' lands, houses, and slaves,' on the same plan as the 
direct tax imposed in 1798. The lands and houses with their 
improvements, and the slaves, were to be enumerated and va- 
lued by the respective assessors, at the rate each of them was 
worth in money. The proportions allotted to each state being 
determined by a fixed scale, any state was at liberty to assume 
and pay its proportion without submitting to the valuation. 
Several states assumed their proportions in this way. 

Dollars. 
The net revenue for 1815 is stated to be - 49,532,852 

of which that derived from customs, 36,303,251 
The revenue for 1816", - - - 36,743,574 

of which that derived from customs, 27,569,769 
The direct tax and internal duties have been abolished, 

and the permanent annual revenue is estimated at 24,500,000 

Namely, — Customs, - - 20,000,000 

Internal revenue, - 2,500,000 

Public lands, - - 1,500,000 

Bank dividends, and incidental rec. 500,000 



24,500,000 
The expenditure for the support of the civil govern- 
ment, and the army and navy, . . 11,800,000 
Sinking fund, - . - - 10,000,000 

21,800,000 



UNITED STATES. 427 

ProgVess of the Debt. — The debt of the United States, 
created by suppHes, forced loans, and paper money, during 
the revolutionary war in 1783, amounted to forty-two millions 
of dollars ; the annual interest to nearly two millions and a 
half The debt contracted by each individual state was as- 
sumed by congress, and made a part of the national debt, 
which was to be redeemed by the proceeds of national do- 
mains ; and the interest of several species of stock, transferred 
to the United States, and appropriated by law for this pur- 
pose, under the direction of the commissioners of the sinking 
fund. 

According to a report of the secretary of the treasury of the 
28th February, 1816, the public debt, on the 12th of Febru- 
ary, 1816, amounted to 123,630,692 dollars, consisting of 

1. The public funded debt before the war, 38,335,832 

2. The public funded debt contracted since, 68,374,744' 

3. Floating outstanding debt, - - 16,920,115 

123,630,691 

The sum set apart as a sinking fund since 1803 was an an- 
nual appropriation of eight millions of dollars, arising from the 
sale o^ public lands, from the interest of the debt previously 
extinguished, which is paid to the commissioners, in whose 
name the stock remains, and of as much from the proceeds of 
the duties of customs as makes up the balance. The amount 
of debt redeemed, up to 1st January, 1814, under this system, 
was 33,873,463; and the interest on this debt, which was 
passed to the credit of the commissioners in 1813, as part of 
the sinking fund, was 1,932,107. 

On the 3d March, 1817, an act was passed, appropriating 
ten millions annually as a sinking fund, and discontinuing the 
practice of paying interest on the discharged debt to the com- 
missioners. A further special appropriation was made for 
that year, amounting to nine millions, with an advance upon 
the next year of four millions, so that, after paying the annual 
interest of the debt, (amounting to about six millions,) there 
would be paid off seventeen millions of the debt in 1817- 



428 VIEW OF THE 



WAR DEPAUTMENT. 



In 1801, the regular army of the United States was reduced 
to a few thousand men, who were chiefly employed in the gar- 
risons and at points on the frontiers. The militia, consisting 
of the adult males from 18 to 45 years of age, with the excep- 
tion of clergymen, public functionaries, &c., formed the mili- 
tary force of the country. In 1808, rules and regulations 
were drawn up for the armies of the United States. The 
president was authorised to call upon the executive govern- 
ment of the several states, to organize and equip their respec- 
tive proportions of a hundred thousand militia, and a million 
df dollars were appropriated to their pay and subsistence. 
The president has also the power of selecting any number for 
actual service, and of apportioning the field-officers among the 
respective states and territories. The officers are appointed 
by the state constitutional authorities. The militia have the 
same pay and subsistence as the regular army, and the period 
of their service is limited to six months from the time of their 
arrival at the place of destination. In the same year, an ad- 
ditional military force was raised for the term of five years, 
consisting of five regiments of infantry, one of riflemen, one of 
artillery, and one of light dragoons. During the recess of the 
senate, the president was authorised to appoint the inferior, 
but not the general officers, and such appointments were after- 
wards to be submitted to the senate for their advice and con- 
sent. The annual sum of 200,000 dollars was appropriated 
for arms and military equipments, to be distributed according 
to the regulations of each state or territorial legislature. In 
1812, a bounty of sixteen dollars vvas given to each able-bodied 
man recruited for five years, with three months'' additional 
pay, and IGO acres of land to non-commissioned officers and 
soldiers who should have faithfully performed their duty. At 
this time an additional military force was raised, consisting of 
ten regiments of infantry, two of artillery, and one of light 
dragoons. Laws were passed for tiie better organization of 
the army, with an increase of pay. Twenty additional regi- 



UNITED STATES. 429 

ments of cavalry were raised, and two dollars allowed to the 
recruiting officer for each man enlisted. It was enacted in 
June, 1813, that five of the regiments authorised to be raised 
might be engaged during the period of the war. In the 
month of Auoust following it was enacted, that the widows 
and orphans of the militia killed in war should be entitled to a 
pension of half-pay for the space of five years. Disabled and 
non-commissi(ined officers were to be jolaced on the pension 
list. An advance of 24 dollars was granted to each recruit on 
account of pay, in addition to the existing bounty of sixteen 
dollars, together with 160 acres of land. The pay of the 
private soldier was raised from six to eight dollars per month ; 
the premium for recruiting officers was also increased from two 
to four dollars The militia-men were authorised to enlist 
into the regular service, without providing substitutes. Re- 
cruits were at liberty to serve during five years, or till the end 
of the war, with the same bounties of money and land. The 
president of the United States was authorised to raise ten ad- 
ditional companies of rangers for the protection of any state or 
territory threatened with invasion by the Indians, to be armed 
and organized as he might think proper, subject to the rules 
and articles of war, and entitled to the same compensation as 
persons serving in the military establishment. It was also 
enacted, that the president might accept the services of volun- 
teers, not exceeding 50,000 in number, who might be orga- 
nized and clothed as artillery, infantry, or cavalry, except that 
the latter were to furnish horses at their own expence ; other- 
wise to be treated as regular troops. A law was also passed 
for the organization of a corps of artificers, to be attached to 
the quarter-m aster-general's department, and subject to the 
<jrders of its officers. This corps to be selected by the general 
from tlie privates of the army, or engaged from among the 
citizens by the superintendant for the space of three years. 
Thirty thousand dollars were voted for the expences of this 
corps. The militia were not to be subject to corporal punish- 
ment ; stoppage of pay and rations were to be substituted for 
whipping, and the fines were to be collected by the marshal. 
By a law passed in 180S, no person can be a commissioned or 



430 VIEW OF THE 

staff-officer who is not a citizen of the United States, or of one 
of their territories. In April, 1814, an act was passed to call 
forth the niiUtia to execute the laws of the Union, to suppress 
insurrections, and repel invasions. In New York, 20,000, 
men were raised by a species of classification ; the rich being 
to furnish quotas of men in proportion to the extent of their 
fortune. A man worth 10,000 dollars was to furnish one sol- 
dier; one worth double this sum to furnish two; and so on 
progressively. It was calculated that an army of 50,000 men 
might be recruited in this way in the course of a year, and this 
species of conscription met with general approbation. 

In July, 1814, the executive government of certain states 
were invited to hold in readiness for Immediate service a corps 
of 93,500 men, under the laws of the ^8th of February, 1795, 
and 18th April, 1814. The detail for militia service under 
this requisition wa,s as follows: State of New Hampshire, 
8500 troops; Massachusetts, 10,000: Rhode Island, 500; 
Connecticut, 3000; New York, 13,500 ; New Jersey, 6000; 
Pennsylvania, 14,000; Delaware, 1000; Maryland, 6000; 
Virginia, 12,000; North Carolina, 7000; South Carolina, 
5000; Georgia^ 3500; Kentucky, 3500; Tennessee, 2500; 
Louisiana, 1000 ; Mississippi territory, 500. 

A military academy was established at West point, in the 
state of New York, in 1809, with the view of supplying a 
corps of engineers. The present academical staff is composed 
of a superintendent of the academy, who is the senior officer 
of engineers ; a professor of natural and experimental philoso- 
phy, of mathematics, of engineering ; a teacher of the French 
language, and of drawing ; a surgeon, chaplain, and professor 
of ethics. The number of cadets authorised by law is 250, 
and there was this number in the school in 1816. 

The expences of the army, in 1810, were about two millions ; 
in 1813, they were increased to more than fourteen millions; 
and the expenditure for 1814 was estimated at more than 
twenty-four millions and a half. The military establishment 
of this last year, including rangers, sea-fencibles, and troops of 
all descriptions, officers and men, consisted of 63,422. In the 
yearly expence is included ordnance, fortifications, the Indian 



UNITED STATES. 431 

department, and permanent appropriation for Indian treaties, 
and for arming and equipping the militia. 

By an act of congress of the 3d of IMarch, 1815, the mili- 
tary peace estabhshment was reduced to 10,000 men, consist- 
ing of the following pro})ortions of artillery, infantry, and 
riflemen. 1. Artillery, 32 companies, or 8 battalions, making 
3200 men. 2. Light artillery, 10 companies, or one regiment 
of 660 men. 3. Infantry, 80 companies, or 8 regiments, 5440 
men. 4. Riflemen, 10 companies, or one regiment of 680 
men. Total, 9980. The chief officers are two major-gene- 
rals, with one aid-de-camp each; four brigade inspectors; 
four brigade quarter-masters. The departments preserved 
are, the ordnance department; the purchasing department; 
the pay department ; the office of judge advocate; the hospi- 
tal department ; and military academy. The United States 
are divided into two military divisions, that of the north and 
of the south, each of which is subdivided into military de- 
partments. 

NAVY DEPARTMENT. 

The American navy is a recent creation. In 1801, it con- 
sisted of only 20 vessels. Its first success was gained in 1805, 
in the bombardment of Tripoli. Mr. Warden describes its 
progress and present state as follows. 

*In 1806 and 1807, a number of gun-boats was built and 
equipped for the protection of the coast and harbours. In 
1809, the marine corps was formed, and privates were enlisted 
for the term of five years. In 1812, tiie subject of a naval 
system of defence was discussed by congress; and, in conse- 
quence of the resolutions then adopted, all the frigates were 
equipped and put into actual service, and the gun-boats were 
distributed in the harbours of the maritime frontier. In 1814, 
laws were passed to construct, under the president's direction, 
four 74 gun ships, six of 44, a like number of sleeps of war, 
and 50 barges, for the defence of the ports and harbours ; and 
armed vessels for the service on the lakes. More than three 
millions of dollars were voted for this purpose ; besides a hun- 



432 VIEW OF THE 

dred thousand for the construction of a dock-yard, or great 
naval establishment, on the right bank of the Hudson or North 
river, just above the high lands, which form a natural defence. 

' By another law, 500,000 dollars were appropriated for the 
construction of floating batteries, and 250,000 for the pur- 
chase of hulks to be sunk in different harbours for their better 
security. 

' The government, at this period, availed itself of the newly 
discovered invention of the steam-frigate^ which will probably 
form an era in the history of warlike operations, as it may 
enable a nation, with small maritime resources, to resist the 
most powerful naval force. This immense battery, construct- 
ed under the direction of the late Mr. Fulton, was launched at 
New York in the month of October, 1814. It measures 145 
feet on deck, with 55 feet in breadth of beam, and draws only 
eight feet water. The machinery by which it moves back- 
ward or forward is placed in the centre, and is so defended by 
a side of six feet in thickness, that it cannot be injured by the 
enemy's shot; while, by means of tubes which vomit forth 
volumes of boiling water, and sharp-edged instruments moving 
along its sides in contrary directions, the vessel bids defiance 
to the courage of the boldest boarders, and is considered by 
good judges as impregnable. 

' At the declaration of war against England in June, 1812, 
the whole naval force consisted of seven frigates, a few sloops 
of war, and other smaller vessels. In May, 1813, the Ame- 
rican navy consisted of nine frigates, carrying from 36 to 44 
guns ; three ships, one block-ship, four brigs, four schooners, 
one yacht, four hired schooners, two block-sloops, twelve 
barges, and 160 gun-boats, besides the vessels for the service 
on the lakes ; on lake Ontario, a ship, a brig, and ten schooners, 
a bomb and a 24 gun ship on the stocks ; on lake Erie, three 
sloops, four gun-boats, and two sl(K)ps of war building. The 
English squadron captured on lake Erie was purchased by the 
government for the sum of 255,000 dollars, which was distri- 
buted as prize-money among the captors. 

' The American navy, in January, 1815, consisted of 28 
ships of war, from 10 to 74 guns, of which seven were cap- 



UNITED STATES. 



433 



tured from the enemy. The naval force on lake Ontario con- 
sisted of 19 vessels, from one to 44 guns, of which two were 
captured from the English. On lake Erie there were 12 ves- 
sels, from one to 18 guns, five of which were captured in one 
engagement. On lake Champlain there were 10 vessels, from 
eight to 24 guns, four of which were also taken from the Eng- 
lish. The whole number of barges and schooners, 92 ; that 
of gun-boats, 122. 

* On the 29th of April, 1816, the American congress voted a 
million of dollars a year, during eight years, for the construc- 
tion of nine ships, not to carry less than 74 guns each ; 12 not 
to carry less than 44 each, including a 74, and three 44 gun 
ships, by the act of January, 1813 ; together with three steam- 
batteries for the defence of the ports and harbours. 

* None but citizens of the United States, or persons of co- 
lour, natives of the country, are to be employed as seamen 
after the war. Naturalized citizens are not to be received on 
board of the private or public vessels after this period, unless 
they produce to the commander of public ships, or the col- 
lector of customs, authentic certificates of naturalization ; and 
by the resolution of congress of the 27th April, 1816, they 
must declare where they were born, or from what foreign land 
they came.' 

State of the American Navy in ASXl^from the Official Accounts. 







Wiien 






Names and Force. 


built or 


Where built. 


State and condition. 






captured. 






Independence 


74 


1814 


Boston, 


In good order 


Franklin 


71 


1815 


Philadelphia, 


In service 


Washington 


74 


1816 


Portsmouth, 




Chippewa 


74 


— 


Sacket's Harbour, 


On the stocks 


New Orleatis 


74 








Plattsburg 


74 








Constitution 


44 


1797 


Boston, 


Hull in good ord. 


Guevriere 


44 


1S14 


Philadelphia 


In service 


Java 


44 


— 


Baltimore, 


Wants repairs 


United States 


44 


1797 


Philadeljjhia, 


In service 


Superior 


44 





Backet's Harbour, 




Constellation 


SQ 


1797 


Baltimore, 


In service 


19 






3 I 





434 



VIEW OF THE 







When 






Names and Force. 


built or 


Where built. 


State and condition. 






captured. 






Congress 


3Q 


. 


Ports. N. H. 




Macedonian 


36' 


1812 


England, 


Hull in good ord. 


Mohawk 


32 


1814 


Sacket's Hai-bour, 


In good order 


Confiance 
General Pike 


32 


c. 1814 




Hull good 


24 


1813 




Saratoga 


24 


— 


Vergennes, 


Tn good order 


Cyanne 


24 


c. 1815 




Repairable 


Lawrence 


20 


1813 


Erie, 


Sunk 


Detroit 


18 








Erie 


18 


— 


Baltimore, 


In service 


Hornet 


18 


1815 




Wants repairing 


Jefferson 


18 


— 


Sacket's Harbour, 


In good order 


Jones 


18 








Madison 


18 








(}f}P)fln ' 


18 


— . 




Much decayed 


\^rtz-tLin 




Niagara 


18 


1813 


Erie, 


Receiving vessel 


Ontario 


18 


1809 


Baltimore, 


In service 


Peacock 


18 


1813 


New York, 




Fulton 1st 




1815 




Steam frigate in 
ordinary 


Boxer 


16 


c. 1815 


Hartford, 


In service 


Linnet 


16 


1814 




In good order 


Saranac 


16 


1815 




In service 


Sylph 


16 


1813 


Sacket's Harbour, 




Queen Charlotte 
Ticonderaga 


14 


1813 




Sunk 


14 


1814 




Alert storeship 




c. 1814 




In service 



The Asp, Despatch, 2 guns ; Enterprise, bomb ; Firebrand 
schooner, 6; Hornet schooner, 6; Lynx, 5; Nonsuch, 6; 
and Porcupine, 1, are in service. The Lady of the Lake, 1, 
in good order; the Spitfire and Vesuvius bombs are con- 
demned. The Vengeance unfit for service. 

There were four 74''s on the stocks, besides frigates and 
smaller vessels. 

Those ships in italics are on the lakes, and are not consi- 
dered as making a part of the navy. 



UNITED STATES. 



THE MINT ESTABLISHMENT, — THE MONEY OF THE UNITED 
STATES, — AND THE NATIONAL BANK. 

In 1792, the American congress passed an act for establish- 
ing a mint, and regulating the coins of the United States, in 
which it was declared, that, three years after the commence- 
ment of the American coinage, all foreign coins should cease 
to be a legal tender, except Spanish milled dollars, and parts 
thereof: and the infraction of this law was punished by a fine 
of ten dollars, and the forfeiture of the illegal money. The 
copper purchased and coined from the commencement of the 
institution to the 1st of January, 1809, amounted to 823,333 
pounds, troy weight,, and was valued at 266,854 dollars, the 
rate being seven pennyweights to a cent. The total value of 
gold, silver, and copper coins, was 8,346,146 dollars. The 
net amount chargeable to the coinage of gold, silver, and copi 
per, including the cost of lots, building, machinery, &c. was 
350,082 dollars. 

A Table of the Coins of the United States: 

Denominations. Weight in Grains. Value in Dollars. Cents. 

Gold Coins. — Eagle, 270 

Half eagle, 135 

Quarter eagle, 67i 

Silver Coins. — Dollar, 4l6 

Half dollar, 208 

Quarter, 104 



10 




5 




'24 




1 


100 


o§ 


50 


0* 


25 


Dollar^. 


Cents. 


4" 


44 





184 


nds, 


40 


4. 


10 



Pound Sterling of Great Britain, 

Livre tournois of France, 

Florin, or guilder, of the United Netherlands, 

Pound Sterling of Ireland, 



A national bank was chartered on the 10th April, 1816, the 
capital to consist of thirty millions of dollars. The affairs of 
this corporation have not prospered, and in 1818 a committee 
of congress examined their proceedings ; and such regulations 



436 VIEW OF THE 

have been adopted as may perhaps avert the evils which Eng- 
land is suffering from the exorbitant power and tad manage- 
ment of our national bank. 

HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 

We have before noticed the earUest and chief historical 
epochs of the United States, and have detailed the history of 
each distinct state. It therefore only remains to glance at the 
principal events which terminated in the independence of the 
Union, and whicli has indicated its progress towards a high 
rank in the scale of nations. 

The northern colonies of New England had shewn repeated 
symptoms of their original spirit of opposition to authority. 
The peace of 1763, after a war of immense expence, was 
crowned by the cession of Canada, and the consequent annihi- 
lation of the Frencli power in North America. Canada was 
acquired at the price of about fifty times its real value ; and 
the acquisition of Canada was the loss of America: so incapa- 
ble is human prudence of presaging events, and so often does 
Providence effect objects by the very means which men em- 
ploy to avert them ! For the colonies were not only thus 
delivered from constant fear and jealousy of the French, 
Avhich bound them to the protection of the parent country, 
but the vast expenditure of that splendid and absurd war oc- 
casioned such an increase of taxation, that the country gentle- 
men of England were easily induced to wish that a part of it 
might be borne by the colonies. 

No sooner, therefore, was peace concluded, than the British 
parliament adopted the plan of taxing the colonies ; and, to 
justify their attem])ts, declared that the money to be raised 
was to be appropriated to defray the expence of defending 
them in the late war, The first attempt to raise a revenue in 
America appeared in the memorable stamp act, passed March 
22, 1765, whereby it was enacted, that certain instruments in 
writing, as bills, bonds, &c. should not be valid in law, unless 
drawn on stamped paper, on which a duty was laid. 



UNITED STATES. 437 

Immcdiately as this act was published in America, it raised 
a general alarm. The people were filled with apprehensions 
at an act which they supposed to be an attack on their con- 
stitutional rights. The colonies, therefore, petitioned the 
king and parliament for a redress of the grievance, and at the 
same time entered into associations for the purpose of prevent- 
ing the importation and use of British manufactures until the 
obnoxious act should be repealed. This spirited and unani- 
mous opposition of the Americans produced the desired effect ; 
and on the 18th of March, 1766, the stamp act was repealed. 
The news of the repeal was received in the colonies with uni- 
versal joy, and the trade between them and Great Britain was 
renewed on the most liberal footing. 

The parliament, however, by repealing this act, so odious 
to their American brethren, by no means intended to lay asicLe 
the scheme of raising a revenue in the colonies, but merely to 
alter the mode. Accordingly, the next year they passed an 
act, imposing a certain duty on glass, tea, paper, and painters' 
colours; articles which were much wanted, and not manufac- 
tured in America. This act, as might reasonably have been 
expected after what had passed, kindled the resentment of the 
Americans, and excited a general opposition to the measure, 
so that parliament thought it adviseable, in 1770, to take off 
these duties, except three-pence a pound on tea. Neverthe- 
less, this duty, however trifling, kept alive the jealousy of the 
colonists, and their opposition to parliamentary taxation conti- 
nued increasing from day to day. 

It will be easily conceived that the inconvenience of paying 
the duty was not the sole nor even the principal cause of the 
opposition; it was ihe principle, which, once admitted, would 
have subjected the colonies to unlimited parliamentary taxa- 
tion, without the privilege of being represented. The colonies, 
therefore, entered into measures for encouraging their own 
manufactures and home productions, and for retrenching the 
use of foreign superfluities, while the importation of tea was 
prohibited. In the royal and proprietary governments, and 
in Massachusetts, the governors and people were in a state of 
continual warfare. Assemblies were repeatedly called and 



VIEW OF THE 

suddenly dissolved : employing the time while sitting in stating 
grievances and framing remonstrances. As if to inflame these 
discontents, an act of parliament was passed, ordaining, that 
the governors and judges shoidd receive their salaries of the 
crown ; thus rendering them independent of the provincial as- 
semblies, and removeable only at the pleasure of the king. 

In 1773, the sj)irit of the Americans broke out into open 
violence. The Gaspee, an armed schooner belonging -to his 
Britannic majesty, had been stationed at Providence, in Rhode 
island, to prevent smuggling. The vigilance of the com- 
mander irritated the inhabitants to such a degree, that about 
200 armed men boarded the vessel under favour of the night, 
compelled the officers and crew to go ashore, and set fire to 
the schooner. A reward of 500/., offered by government for 
apprehending any of the persons concerned in this daring act, 
produced no effectual discovery. 

Nor did the attempt to evade the resolution of the colonies, 
by introducing teas through the East India company, succeed. 
In Massachusetts, a party of men, dressed like Indians, 
boarded the tea ships, and discharged the cargoes into the 
water. This induced government to shut the port of Boston, 
and to pass several acts to repress this growing spirit of op- 
position. 

All these steps, however, far from intimidating, rather exas- 
perated the Americans, by confirming them in their former 
apprehensions of the evil designs of government, and served 
only to unite the colonies in a more determined opposition. 
A correspondence of opinion, in respect to these acts, pro- 
duced an uniformity of proceedings in the colonies. The 
people generally conciu'red in the proposition for holding a 
congress, in order to concert measures for the preservation of 
their rights. Deputies were accordingly appointed, and met 
at Philadelphia on the 26th of October, 1774. 

It was on the 19th of April, 1775, that the first blood was 
drawn in this unhappy civil war, at Lexington and Concord 
in New England. This was occasioned by general Gage 
sending a body of troops to destroy some military stores that 
were at Concord. They succeeded in their design, but were 



UNITED STATES. 

extremely harassed and forced to a quick retreat. Immedi- 
ately after, numerous bodies of the American militia invested 
the town of Boston, in which general Gage and his troops 
were. In all the colonies they prepared for war with the ut- 
most dispatch ; and a stop was almost every where put to the 
exportation of provisions. The continental congress met at 
Philadelphia on the 10th of May, 1775, as proposed, and soon 
adopted such measures as confirmed the people in their resolu- 
tions to oppose the British government to the utmost. 

In the mean time, a body of provincial adventurers, amount- 
ing to a.bout 240 men, surprised the garrisons of Ticonderago > 
and Crown point. These fortresses were taken without the 
loss of a man on either side ; and the provincials found in the 
forts a considerable number of pieces of cannon, besides mor- 
tars, and sundry kinds of military stores. However, the force 
of Great Britain in America was now augmented, by the arri- 
val at Boston from England of generals Howe, Burgoyne, 
and Clinton, with considerable reinforcements. 

On the 17th of June, 1775, a bloody action took place at 
Bunker's Hill, near Boston, in which the king's troops had 
the advantage, but with the loss of 226 killed, and more than 
800 wounded, including many officers. But after this action, 
the Americans immediately threw up works upon another 
hill, opposite to it, on their side of Charlestown neck ; so that 
the troops were as closely invested in that peninsula as they 
had been in Boston. About this time, the congress appointed 
. George Washington, esq. a gentleman of large fortune in Vir- 
ginia, of great military talents, and who had acquired consi- 
derable experience in the command of different bodies of 
provincials during the last war, to be general and commander- 
ili-chief of all the American forces. 

During these transactions, the royal army at Boston was 
reduced to great distress for want of provisions ; the town was 
bombarded by the Americans, and general Howe, who now 
! commanded the king's troops, which amounted to upwards of 
7000 men, was obliged to quit Boston, and embark for Hali- 
I fax, leaving a considerable quantity of artillery and some stores 
behind. The town was evacuated on the 17th of IVfarch, 



440 VIEW OF THE 

1776, and general Washington immediately took possession of' 
it. On the 4th of Jul}' following, the congress published a 
solemn declaration, in which they assigned their reasons for 
withdrawing their allegiance from the king of Great Britain. 
In the name, and by the authority of the inhabitants of the 
United Colonies, they. declared that they then were, and of 
right ought to bQ, ' free and independent States ;' that they 
Were absolved from all allegiance to the British crown, and 
that all political connection between them and the kingdom of 
Great Britain was totally dissolved ; and also that, as free and 
independent states, they had full power to levy war, conclude 
peace, contract alliances, establish cnnnnerce, and do all other 
acts and things^ which independent states may of right do. 
They likewise published articles of confederation and perpe- 
tual union between the united colonies, in which they assumed 
the title of ' The United States of America.' 

An attack upon Charlestown was ably repelled by the Ame- 
ricans under general Lee ; but the British, under general 
Howe and his brother vice-admiral lord Howe, compelled the 
Americans to evacuate Long island, from whence their retreat 
was conducted with great address by general Washington. 
New York was soon after abandoned, several forts were lost, 
the British troops covered the Jerseys, and the period for ser«. 
vice in the American army had expired. This was the crisis 
of American danger. But their army being recruited by vo- 
lunteers, Washington, in the night of the 25th of December, 
1776, amidst snow, storms, and ice, crossed the Delaware, 
and surprised a brigade of Hessians at Trenton; and while 
the British were preparing to attack him at this post, he, by a 
happy stroke of generalship, retreated in the night, carried 
the British post of Princetown, and resumed his former 
position. 

In September, 1777, after two actions between the armies 
of general Howe and general Washington, in both of which 
the former had the advantage, the city of Philadelphia surren- 
dered to the king's troops. But an expedition, that had for 
some time been concerted, of invading the northern colonies 
by way of Canada, proved extremely unsuccessful. The 



UNITED STATES. 441 

command of this expedition had been given to lieutenant- 
genei'al Burgoyne, a very experienced officer. He set out 
from Quebec with an army of near 10,000 men, and an extra- 
ordinary fine train of artillery, and was joined by a considera- 
ble body of the Indians. For some time he drove the 
Americans before him, and made himself master of Ticonde- 
rago; but at length he encountered such difficulties, and was 
so vigorously opposed by the Americans vmder Gates and 
Arnold, that after two severe actions, in which great numbers 
fell, general Burgoyne and his army of 5600 men were obliged 
to lay down their arms, October 17, 1777. 

After several aifairs, by which the animosity of the Ameri- 
cans to the British governnient was increased, the British 
army found it necessary to evacuate Philadelphia. General 
Howe returned to England, and was succeeded in the com- 
mand of the army by general Clinton. By this time tlie Bri- 
tish ministers began to be al-irmed at the fatal tendency of the 
war ; but the congress refused to treat with the commissioners 
which his majesty sent to settle all disputes, and the war con- 
tinued with unabated animosity. 

The emissaries of France had long been actively employed 
in formin"; and widening the breach between America and 
England ; and, in 1778, that country openly espoused the 
American cause. Shortly after, Spain and Holland joined 
the confederacy, and co-operated with the Americans. In the 
mean time, lord Cornwallis gained some advantages in Caro- 
lina ; but, by a well-concerted scheme, general Washington 
suddenly surrounded his army, which was obliged to capitu- 
late ; and this event may be considered as the closing scene oi 
the continental American war. 

The war against the colonies, which had never been popular 
in Britain, had now become so unsuccessful and expensive, 
that the government was compelled to listen to the public 
voice. Accordingly, the treaty of peace was signed on the 
SOth November, 1782 ; by which the independence of the 
United States was solemnly acknowledged, after a struggle of 
seven years ; while that between Spain and the United Pro- 
vinces continued, with some intermissions, for about GO years: 

Ji K 



442 VIEW OF THE 

but the profuse expence of modern warfare counterbalances its 
brevity. 

The constitution of the United States having been found 
imperfect, a new plan was submitted to the several states, and 
received their approbation. On the 30th of April, 1789, 
George Washington was inaugurated president of the United 
States. The. firmness with which that illustrious man opposed 
the insolence and impositions of the venal directory of France, 
added much to the glory of his name and the prosperity of 
his country. 

When Bonaparte, flushed with victory, contemplated tlie 
ruin and ultimate subjugation of Britain, and to effect which 
declared it in a state of blockade, the British ministry, in reta- 
liation, pubHshed certain orders, declaring the ports of France 
and her dependencies to be blockaded. In this state of things 
the trade of the United States suffered, by the hostile powers, 
several vexatious interruptions. Yet the American govern- 
ment shewed a marked partiality to France, and became ex- 
tremely clamorous against Great Britain, accusing her naval 
officers of impressing their seamen, whom the latter claimed a 
British subjects. This dispute, in some instances, occasioned 
hostihties between the sliips of the two powers. In order to' 
avoid the insults which the American flag had suffered, con- 
gress passed a non-intercourse act, by which a stop was put to 
all trade with foreign powers ; but this absurd and impolitic 
measure was, in a short time, abandoned. 

After much discussion between the governments of England 
and the United States, the former revoked the obnoxious 
orders in council; but before the intelligence of this concilia- 
torv measure reached America, Mr. Maddison, the president, 
had issvted a declaration of war against England, dated the 
18th of June, 1812; and circumstances appeared so favour- 
able to success, that he persisted in his resolution to try the 
fortune of war. ^ 

The Americans commenced the war by fitting out a great 
number of privateers, and sending an army to invade Canada. 
But as the Canadians refused to listen to the revolutionary 
proclamation' of the American general; Hull, he was obliged 



^ UNITED STATES. 448 

to surrender with his whole army. Various other attempts 
were made hy tlie Americans upon Canada, in which the su- 
perior discipUne and tactics of the Enghsh soldiery compen- 
sated for want of numbers, and ensured the defeat of the 
invaders, who were also much incommoded by the Indians, 
that had for some time been in a state of warfare with the 
United States. The spirit of the Americans was, however, 
supported by some successes which their ships obtained over 
the British, in which they certainly displayed the skill and 
gallantry of their progenitors. 

The war Hngered for some time, until the peace of Paris 
placed a strong body of veterans at the disposal of the Enghsh 
ministry. The British ships of war now blockaded the poi'ts 
of the United States, kept the whole coast in continual alarm, 
sailed up the Chesapeake and Delaware, imposed contributions 
upon several towns, and even penetrated to Washington, the 
seat of government. 

A similar attempt was made upon Baltimore, but failed. 
However, the Americans Avere unsuccessful upon the lakes, 
except on lake Champlain, where'the whole British squadron 
was captured. But this war, so hurtful to both parties, was 
at last happily terminated by a treaty of peace signed by the 
English and American commissioners at Ghent. Before the 
signing of this treaty was known in America, a body of about 
5000 English troops made an unsuccessful attack upon New- 
Orleans, and suffered the loss of Sir Edward Pakenham, about 
(iO officers of rank^ and 2600 men in killed, wounded, and 
prisoners. 

According to a statement published by the war depart- 
ment, the aggregate number ol' militia, in 1816, amounted to 
748,566. The following comparative view of the loss of the 
American and British armies, in the last war, is extracted 
from Nile''s Weekly Register. 

American: — Killed, 1422; wounded, 3044; killed and 
wounded, 4466; missing, 555; prisoners, 4687; total, 9888. 
British :— Killed, 2809 ; wounded, 5393 ; killed and wound- 
ed, 8202; missing, 251; prisoners, 2434; total, 11,387. 



444 VIEW OF THE, kc. 

British National Vessels captured during the War. 

British national vessels captured^ - 66 

Carrying, in all, guns, - - 91 

In those cases where the force of the contending parties is cer- 
tainly known; it appears, in the aggregate, that 

The Bi-itish fought - 6l5guns. 

Americans, - 599 

General balance in favour of the British, 1 6" 
But the difference between the Essex, 46, and the Alert, 26, 
being deducted, for the affair between them does not de- 
serve the name of a battle, 20 

And the real advantage on the side of the British was S6 

American National Vessels captured or destroyed during tht 

War. 

American government vessels captured, 25 

Carrying in all, , _ - 350 guns. 

From those cases where the force of the contending parties is 
certainly known, these aggregates appear : 

The British fought, - 197 guns. 

Americans, - - 142 

In favour of the British, 55 

Recapitulation. 
American national vessels captured or destroyed by the 

British, ----- 350 gun? 

V AA. n±( destroyed at Washington city, to pre- 

Argus, l8-22\ „y., hands, ^ 76 

Adams, 24 — 28, destroyed at Hampden as above, 28 

Wasp, .18—22, lost, - - - - 22 

Two vessels on lake Ontario, lost, .- - l6 

Grand total. - - 495 



ADVICE AND DIRECTIONS 

to 

EMIGRANTS. 



TXrE will now proceed to give some plain and useful instruc- 
tions to such of our countrymen as may hereafter emi- 
grate to the United States of America, and which will fall 
under the following heads, viz. 

1. Directions respecting the voyage. 

2. Precautions for preserving the health in a new climate 

3. On the best mode of settling. 

4. The prices of land, labour, and provisions. 

5. The rights and duties of a permanent settler. 

6. The prospects of various classes of emigTants. 

These particulars comprise every thing necessary to be 
known by the adventurer, and will be detailed with strict 
impartiality and a minuteness commensurate with their im- 
portance. 

I. DIRECTIONS RESPECTING THE VOYAGE. 

It is always advisable, before embarking for a long voyage, 
to have all business transacted in good time, so as to spare a 
few days, which may be devoted to friendship and an atten- 
■^on to the little necessaries that may be requisite on the voyage. 

It is not always in a person's power to choose a captain, al- 
though a good deal of the comfort of the passage depends 
upon this choice. The chief requisites are, that he be a good 



446 VIEW OF THE 

seaman ; attentive, careful, and active in the management of* ' 
his vessel : and of these circumstances, and indeed all others 
relative to the passage, you must satisfy yourself before setting 
out, for there is no use in making complaints at sea. It is 
still more difficult to make choice of sociable fellow-passengers. 
A ship is like a stage-coach, it must accommodate all comers ; I 
and one surly fellow may molest a whole ship''s company. , 
But a person, by having resources of his own, may make him- 
self, in a great measure, independent of other people ; and it 
will be well, before going .on board, to take measures to ac- 
complish that desirable object. For this purpose, a small . 
library of books will be found very entertaining, and if you i 
have any turn for the study of mathematics and drawing, you 
will have a good opportunity to practise on board ; and a case 
of mathematical instruments, and a box of paints, will be ne- 
cessary. 

Cfboice of a Vessel. — A ship is preferable to a brig, as the 
sea motion in the former will be less felt, and the accommoda- 
tions are generally superior. The English ships in the Ame- 
rican trade are not equal to those in other trades ; whilst, ou 
the contrary, the best American vessels are in the British 
trade; so that it is well to select an American ship, the sq/e 
age of which will be according to the quality of the timber and 
the building, and these can only be known by persons very 
conversant in those subjects. There are certain ships of esta-- 
blished reputation, a few of which go to the port of London, ' 
and a greater number to Liverpool. From the port of Liver- 
pool there are a very considerable number of first-rate ships 
for Philadelphia, Boston, and New York ; among the latter is 
what are called the 'Packet Line."' One of these vessels sails 
punctually on the first of every month from Liverpool. The 
charge for passage is, in the cabin, 45 guineas, which includes 
wine, and indeed almost every luxury ; in the steerage, 9^. 
exclusive of every thing but water. The house of Crapper, 
Benson, and Co. at Liverpool, are the agents for these ships, 
which are first-rate in every respect, and all their commanders 
are men of great experience. There are several others of a 
superior class: but it would be judicious in every peri5on ta 



UNITED STATES. 447 

«iake minute enquiries as to the character of the ship and 
captain with which they propose engaging ; for it should be 
known that there are some very indifferent American ships, 
which go to both Liverpool and London, and particularly the 
latter port. A regular trader Is generally to be preferred to 
a chance ship. The prices (with the exception of the packet 
ships) will vary according to circumstances ; for the cabiij 
from 30 to 45, and for the steerage from 7 to 10 guineas. It 
should be remarked that even this is a subject of barter. A 
few ships sail from Bristol and Greenock for New York — the 
Fanny from the latter port is rather celebrated. A passage 
'•from Havre, in France, to America, is often to be obtained 
much cheaper than from this country. Should a large party 
engage the same vessel, they would act prudently to procure 
an extra boat, for in case of accident or shipwreck, the two 
ship-boats would not be found sufficient ; and upon such me- 
lancholy occurrences the crew commonly escape, and the pas- 
sengers are lost. 

Cabin passengers^ though supplied by the captain, would 
find a small private stock desirable. A plum cake, soda pow- 
ders, a few good apples and oranges (the latter will keep if not 
previously bruised, and if each orange is carefully rolled in 
paper), preserves of several kinds, and cider, which will be 
found particularly pleasant at sea. 

Steerage passengers should provide for 70, though they 
may not be out more than 50 days. They are compelled by 
law to take 80 lbs. of meat. A variety will be advisable; 
say 30 lbs. of beef, 20 of ham, 20 of tongue, 10 of 
bacon : herrings are pleasant, and salt cod particularly sq, 
Avhen eaten with egg-sauce ; 50 lbs. of bread, of the best bis- 
cuit, and loaves cut in slices' and toasted : rusks will be found 
very pleasant in tea : 30 to 40 lbs. of flour ; a few pounds of 
oatmeal ; ditto of rice ; ditto of groats ; ditto of arrow-root ; 
10 lbs. of dieese; 100 lbs. of potatoes. Have a small net bag 
to boil thetn in : this will prevent confusion with the cook, 
and also their being exchanged for others of, perhaps, an infe- 
rior quality. 5 lbs. of coffee, ground, and kept corked in a 
bottle, for the purpose of excluding the atmospheric aif : 1 lb. 



448 VIEW OF THE 

o£ tea ; 14 lbs. of sugar ; a small quantity of spirits, of wine, 
and bottled porter : the latter, mixed with an equal quantity 
of water, with sugar and nutmeg, will be found very agreea- 
ble. Have a definite understanding for the quantity of water 
per day. A filtering machine can be bought at 79, Titchfield- 
street, London, for 20s. Eggs to be kept in bran, and fre- 
quently turned. 10 lbs. of butter. Milk will keep, if boiled, 
and mixed with sugar, in the proportion of 2 lbs. to the quart. 
If the articles enumerated under the head Cabin passengers 
can be afforded, they would be found particularly pleasant. 
If there are females in the party, there should be some fowls. 
A few tin articles for the purposes of cooking, &c. 

In choosing a birth, either in the cabin or steerage, the 
middle of the vessel, or as near to it as can be procured, is 
desirable, on account of the ship's motion being- there less- felt. 
Books will be an occasional, and but an occasional, relief to 
the monotony of a sea voyage. Those of a light and amusing 
character are the most suitable. Reading for more than half 
an hour at any one time produces the head-ache, and sensil ly 
affects the eyes. Medicines are an important article of sea 
stores: they should be in pills, and taken frequently, with 
great exactness, at stated periods, and in as small quantities as 
can possibly produce the effect. Steerage passengers should 
have a specific agreement with th©^ captain far the use of the 
place of convenience : this is an important consideration, and 
great inconvenience is sometimes experienced by such persons 
in being denied this. A flute, a violin, and a pack of cards, 
are pleasant companions. 

A short time after setting sail, the passengers generally get 
sea-sick. This complaint, though lightly esteemed, because 
not dangerous, is often very severe while it lasts, and, if 
treated improperly, it may cause a relaxation of the stomach, 
that will be very troublesome. While the sickness continues, 
people have an aversion to all kinds of food and drink. Many 
abstain from both three or four days. This is a bad plan.. 
The stomach should never be allowed to get entirely empty. 
A little chicken broth or water gruel should be freely used ; 
and people should go upon deck as soon as possible. Breath- 



UNITED STATEi?. 449 

Iiig the foul air of the cabin or steerage promotes the disease; 
whereas exercise and free air on deck reheve it. A httle soda 
water will at this time be very exhilirating ; and as soon as the 
stomach is so far cleansed as to keep free from retching, a little 
Peruvian bark will be very beneficial as a restorative. Care 
should be taken to guard against costiveness, a very trouble- 
some complaint at sea. Attention to diet and exercise will 
often prevent it ; but wh^re that fails, a httle laxative medi- 
cine, such as rhubarb, cream of tartar, or castor oil, should be 
resorted to. 

But as sea-sickness is viewed with considerable alarm by 
people unaccustomed to the sea, particularly females, we will 
enter into this subject more at large. 

This disorder, so far from being Injurious to asthmatic and 
consumptive people, has, in general, a beneficial effect ; and 
the instances in which it has proved fatal are extremely rare. 
It appears to be a spasmodic affection of the stomach, occa- 
sioned by the alternate pressure and recess of its contents 
against its lower internal surface, accordinij; as the rise and fall 
of the ship oppose the action of gravity. 

The motion of the Atlantic ocean between Great Britain 
and America produces sea-sickness with the greatest violence, 
as the waves have an uninterrupted freedom of action, which 
causes that regular vacillation that renders the head giddy, 
A person feels less inconvenience from the disorder in a small 
vessel on the wide ocean, on which the slightest motion of the 
waves makes a strong impression. He is also less exposed to 
it in a large vessel deeply laden, as the waves, in this case, 
scarcely affect the vessel. It is in ships of an ordinary size, 
and which carry but a light cargo, that the passenger suffers 
most from the sea-sickness. The sooner it takes place after 
embarkation, the continuance of it becomes the more probable. 
It does not always cease immediately on landing, but in some 
cases continues for a considerable time. 

Many methods of preventing, or at least of mitigating this 
disorder, have been recommended, of which the most eflfica- 
«ioas appear to be the following : 

3 L 



450 VIEW OF THE 

1. Not to go on board immediately after eating, and not i(y 
cat, when on board, any large quantity at a time. 

2. To take much exercise, with as little intermission as pos- 
sible ; as indolent passengers are always the greatest sufferers 
from the disorder. 

3. To keep much upon deck, even wlien the weather is 
stormy ; as the sea breeze is not so apt to affect the stomach 
as the impure air of the cabin, rendered so for want of proper 
circulation. 

4. Not to watch the motion of the waves, particularly when 
strongly agitated with tempest. 

5. To fix the eye steadily on the mast, cabin, or some other 
object on deck. This is an excellent method for preventing 
this disorder. 

6. Carefully to shun all employments by which the mind 
may be harassed, as reading, studying, gaming, &c., and to 
seek all opportunities of mental relaxation. 

7. To drink occasionally liquids containing carbonic acid, as 
the froth of beer strongly fermented, or wine and Seltzer water 
mixed together, and sweetened with pounded sugar. 

8. It will also be beneficial to take sulphuric acid dulcified, 
dropped on a bit of sugar, or in peppermint water, or ten 
drops of ether. 

The proper diet consists of bread and fresh meat, to be 
eaten cold with pepper. All sweet savoured food should be 
carefully avoided, and the passenger ought to refrain from faty 
and particidarly from such meat as is in the smallest degree 
tainted. Even the smell of flowers is injurious, for which 
reasons marine productions ought not to be examined ; but 
the fumes of vinegar may be advantageously inhaled. The 
drink should consist of lemonade or tart wines, but never of 
common water. An accidental diarrhoea has often relieved 
the patient from sea-sickness, and therefore a gentle laxative 
in such a disorder seems to be indicated as proper. It will 
also be found useful to apply a tonic anodyne plaster to 
the pit of the stomach, spread upon leather, and covered with 
linen. 



UNITED STATES. 451 

When symptoms of vomiting appear, tliey may often be re- 
medied by the patient placing himself in a horizontal position 
on his back or belly, and lying perfectly still. If the fits of 
vomiting are too violent to be repressed, they should be pro- 
moted by a strong dose of salt water; not, however, to be 
often repeated, as it debilitates the stomach. When the eme- 
tic operates, the patient should bend his body, bringing his 
knees towards his breast, and supporting his l)ead against a 
firm resting-place. His gartei's and cravat must be untied, a 
precaution which will secure him from the danger of a rupture. 

The vomiting having sub.sided, a state of repose will pre- 
vent its return, and the eyes may be kept shut lor a consider- 
able time. The patient must make choice of a cool ventilating 
place, remembering to keep himself warm and well clothed, as 
perspiration is highly beneficial. A gargle of sugar dissolved 
in vinegar is to be taken in the morning, accompanied with 
frequent and spare eating. Water must never be taken in its 
pure state, but mixed with wine, vinegar, or brandy. A glass 
of wine may be taken in the morning, with an infusion of 
orange peel, gentian root, or Peruvian bark. A glass of 
punch, occasionally taken«, will be extremely beneficial, by 
which perspiration is promoted. Dr. Trotter recommends a* 
glass of brandy, as the best cure for a slight attack of this dis- 
agreeable disorder. 

Persons accustomed to smoke tobacco, will find the use of 
the pipe salutary on such occasions, but the practice of smok- 
ing will be injurious to all others. We may add that warm 
clothing, flarniei shirts, caps, trowsers, &e. are powerful retne- 
dies against excessive expectoration, with every other symptom 
of this dreadful malady. 

When the weather is good, people should rise early. The 
air of the cabin is not only affected by the respiration of the 
passengers, but it is often contaminated by the bilge water ; 
while the sea air on deck is always pure and healthy. ■ The 
breakfast hour at sea is eight o'clock, dinner one, and supper 
six or seven. It is a general rule amongst the passengers, to 
have them sclvei^s washed and dressed before sitting down .to 
breakfast. Betwixt breakfast and dinner, the time may be 



io^ VIEW OF THi: 

profitably employed in walking, reading, drawing, &c. ; and 
such as have a taste for navigation will have a good opportu- 
nity for practical improvement, as they can have access to the 
log-book ; and the captain and mates are generally very oblig- 
ing, in lending their navigation books and instruments to those 
who wish them. 

Temperance at table is necessary every where, and espe- 
cially at sea, where the exercise is necessarily Hniited. Where 
wine is used, three or four glasses will generally be found 
more beneficial than a larger quantity ; and people ought, on 
no account, to indulge themselves at the table a whole after- 
noon, though it is frequently done. It is much better to take 
exercise in the open air on deck. 

Pacliing up. — A selection should be made in a box by 
themselves of clothes intended to be worn at sea. Those of 
the most inferior kind will do as well as the best. A warm 
great coat will be found useful. The provision casks should 
be written on, ' Stores.' Baggage must be entered at the cus- 
tom-house; and in procuring a cocJcet, care should be taken 
that the whole of the packages are enumerated : if this is neg- 
lected, an additional expence will be incurred. 

Articles desirable to be talcen out. — Clothing of every kind, 
except silks and silk pocket handkerchiefs. Females would do 
well to take no article of dress particular in appearance. 
Men's trowsers should be of the Wellington kind only. The 
American fashions differ in some things from ours ; and any 
deviation from them is much remarked upon. Most conve- 
nient and unbreakable articles of domestic utensils. No cabi- 
net furniture. A ffood stock of table-linen and bedding: 
"whether feather-beds are desirable or not is questionable. 
Carpeting, if it can be cut to suit other sized rooms ; station- 
ery of every kind ; agricultural implements ; musical and phi- 
losophical instruments. 

Fees qf Officers. — To the collectors and naval officers, Every 
port entry, 2 dollars. Permit to land goods, SO cents. Every 
bond taken officially, 40 cents. Bill of health, 20 cents. 
(There is commonly a demand of two dollars made for this by 
the captain : this is, of course, an imposition.) 



UNITED STATES. 453 

Passengers' Baggage, S^c. — Entry is to be made by passen- 
gers of all clothes, tools or implements of ti-ade or profession, 
arriving in the United States to settle, which articles are ex- 
empted from duty. The form of such entry, and oath re- 
specting the same, as follows : 

' Entry of baggage, wearing apparel, Sfc. imporfed by 
in the " master, from New York, 

(Here the pnrtmdavi to he inserted.) 

' District of 
' Port of 
' \, do solemnly, sincerely, and truly swear, (or affirm,) 

that the entry subscribed by me and hereto annexed, contains, to 
the best of my knowledge and belief, a just and true account of the 
contents of the several mentioned in the said 

entry, imported in the from and that thej' 

contain no goods, wares, or merchandise whatever, other than the 
Avearing apparel and other personal baggage (or if the case re- 
quire) and the tools of the trade of all which are the 
property of who has, or have arrived, who is, or 
are shortly expected to arrive in the United States, and are not 
directly or indirectly imported for any other person or persons, or 
intended for sale. 

. ' So help me God.' 

If the articles shall be entered by any other person than the 
owner, bond to be given in a sum equal to thie amount of what 
the duties would be, if imported subject to duty ; that the 
owner shall within one year verify such entry on oath, or the 
collector may direct such baggage to be examined ; and if any 
article is contained therein, which ought to pay duty, entry 
must be made thereof; and if an entry is made as aforesaid, 
and upon examination thereof, any article is found thereiri 
suiiject to duty, (7iot Juiving been expressed at the time of 
making the entry,) it is ibrfieited, and the person in whose 
baggage the same shall be found, forfeits and shall pay treble 
the value thereof. 

Before we close this division of the subject of emigration, it 
may also^be proper to observe, that before an^ emigrant can 



454 VIEW OF THE 

pass any custom-house in Great Britain, it is necessary for him 
to be furnished with a certificate, to the following purport : 

' Wej the undersigned churchwardens and overseers of the parish 
of in the county of do hereby certify and declare unto 

the officers of his majesty's customs, and all others whom it may 
concern, that we have known A B of the parish of aforesaid, 

for several years last past ; and that the trade or business of the 
said A B, during all the time that we have known him, hath been 
that of a And we do further particularly certify and de- 

clare, that the said A B is not, nor hath ever been, a manufacturer 
or artificer in wool, iron, steel, brass, or any other metal, nor is he, 
or hath he ever been, a watch-maker, or clock-maker, or any other 
manufacturer or artificer whatsoever. And we do further certify, 
that the said A B is about years of age, stands feet and 
inches, or thereabouts, in height, hath hair, eyes, com- 
plexion, is of a appearance. 

' As witness our hands, this day of 
[^To be signed by two churchwardens and two overseers.] 

'I, CD, esq. one of his majesty's justices of the peace for the 
county of do hereby certify and declare, that the several . 

persons whose names are subscribed at the foot of the above- writ- 
ten certificate, are respectively the churchwardens and overseers of 
the parish of aforesaid ; and that the statement contained, 

in the same certificate is true, according to the best of my know- 
ledge, information, and belief. 

' As witness my hand this day of 

II. PRECAUTIONS FOR PRESERVING THE HEALTH IN A NEW 

CLIMATE. 

The change of climate is almost sure to affect the health ; 
but the temperate will scarcely feel any effect, either from the 
extreme heat of summer, or the severe frosts in winter. Rich- 
mond in Virginia, Charlestown in Carolina, and the distant 
city of New Orleans, are places where an enterprising adven- 
turer, who chuses to risk his h^lth and his morals, may easily 
accumulate a fortune. The northern and middle states are 
more healthy, and better adapted to the heai|h of an Enghsh- 
man. Perhaps there is no place in the Union where the tcm- 



UNITED STATES. 455 

perature is so similar to that of old England as Long Island. 
On this subject we subjoin the advice given by the Shamrock 
Society of New York, which seems to comprise almost all the 
precautions necessary to be observed. 

'Emigrants from Europe usually arrive here during sum- 
mer ; and, every thing considered, it is best that they should ; 
for, in the middle and eastern states, the winter is long, fuel 
very dear, and employment comparatively scarce at that sea- 
son. In winter they will expend more, and earn less. But if 
arriving at this time bear more upon their pocket, the heats of 
the summer are undoubtedly more trying to their health. In 
the middle states, namely. New- York, New Jersey, Pennsyl- 
vania, and Maryland, a northern European usually finds the 
cUmate intensely hot, from about the middle of June till to- 
wards the 1st of October. The thermometer frequently ranges 
from 84 to 90, and sometimes to 96 in the middle of the day ; 
this, to a stranger who works in the open air, exposed to the 
burning sun, is certainly dangerous, and requires some pre- 
cautions on his part. 

' First of all, he should regulate his diet, and be temperate in 

the quantity of his food. The American labourer, or working 

mechanic, who has a better and more plentiful table than any 

other man in the world of his class, is, for the most part, a 

small eater; and we recommend to you his example. The 

European of the same condition, who receives meat, or fish 

and coffee, at breakfast, meat at dinner, and meat or fish, and 

tea, at supper — an abundance of animal food to which lie was 

unaccustomed — insensibly falls into a state of too great reple- 

I tion, which exposes him to the worst kind of fever during the 

heats of summer and autumn. He should, therefore, be quite 

j as abstemious in the quantity of food as of strong drink ; and, 

j in addition to this method of preventing sickness, lie should 

jtake a dose of active physic, every now and then, especially in 

the hotter months of July and August. By this prudent 

i course an ardent climate will have no terrors ; and, after some 

residence here, he may preserve his health by regimen and 

xercise alone. 



456 VIEW OF THE 

"' The labourer or mechanic should put off his ordinary 
clothes, and wear next his skin a loose flannel shirt, while he 
works : it should be taken oif again when he is done, 

' The stranger, as well as native, must be particularly care* 
ful not to drink cold water after being heated by exposure to 
the sun or exercise. Sudden and severe pain at the stomach, 
^nd even death, are frequently the consequence of such impru- 
dence. The Humane Society of this city has published the 
following directions to be observed in such cases : 

' Ist. To avoid drinking water while the body is heated,- or 
during profuse perspiration. 

'2d. Wash the hands and face with cold water before 
drinking. 

'3d. If these precautions have been neglected, and cramps 
or convulsions have been induced, let a tea-spoonful of lauda- 
num be given immediately in a cup of spirits and water, and 
repeat the dose in half an hour, if necessary. 

'4th. At the same time apply hot fomentations of spirits 
and water to the stomach and bowels, and to the lower extre- 
mities, covering the body with a blanket ; or immerse the body 
in a warm bath, if it can be immediately obtained. 

' 5th. Inject into the bowels a pint of Warm spirits and wa- 
ter, mixed in the proportion of one part of the former to two 
of the latter.' 

III. ON THE BEST MODE OF SETTLING. 

Mechanics, intending to continue as such, would do well to 
remain in New York, Baltimore, or Philadelphia, until they 
become familiarised with the country. Persons designing to 
settle in the western states will save some expences by landing 
in Philadelphia. Those to whom a few pounds is not an 6b- 
ject, will shorten their voyage two or three days by arriving 
at New York. The summer route from thence to Philadel- 
phia is particularly pleasant, with the exception of 25 niile,s 
land-carriage, and sleeping one night on the road: the whole' 
can be completed for about ten dollars. In winter, there are 



UNITED STATES. 457 

excellent stages (by far the best in America) from New York 
to Philadelphia : the fare is from eight to ten dollars, and the 
journey is completed in fourteen hours, — distance, 96 miles. 

The route to the western country, by way of New Orleans, 
is attended with many disadvantages : it is much longer, and 
more dangerous, in consequence of a great deal of coasting, 
and the difficulties of the gulf of Florida. The voyage from 
the Balaize, at the junction of the Mississippi with the gulf of 
Mexico, to New Orleans, though but 100 miles, is always te- 
dious, and sometimes vessels are three weeks in getting up 
that distance. The yellow fever is of annual occurrence at 
New Orleans. The steam-boats, though numerous, cannot 
proceed at stated periods, and a residence at New Orleans 
may be long, and must be expensive ; and to take passage in 
a keel-boat up the stream, would be an almost endless un- 
dertaking. 

The best mode is to proceed from Philadelphia by way of 
Pittsburg. Horseback is very preferable to the stage, parti- 
cularly on the Alleghany mountains. A poor family would 
have their baggage conveyed in the cheapest way by the regu- 
lar stage-waggons, — themselves walking; and this they will 
find in crossing the mountains to be better than riding (except 
on horseback). They should take with them as good a stock 
of eatables as they can with convenience, the charges on the 
road being very extravagant. Those who have their own 
waggons should have them made as strong as possible, and 
their horses should be in good condition. Small articles of 
cutlery, and all the machinery necessary for repairs on the 
road, are of first necessity. When arrived at Pittsburg, the 
cheapest and easiest mode of travelling is to float down the 
river ; for which purpose there are boats of almost every va- 
riety, (steam-boats excepted,) from 9,s. Sd. upwards, per hun- 
dred miles. Warm clothing should be taken, as tliere is sure 
to be some severe weather in every part of America. The 
articles required in floating down the river will be nearly as 
follows: — The 'Pittsburg Navigator,' a small volume, and 
which may be had at Cramer and Spears; nails, hammer, 
hatchet, tinder-box, box for fire, gridiron, iron pot, cofl^ee-pot, 
20 3 M 



458 VIEW OF THE 

coffee-mill, tea-pot, plates, spoons, knives and forks, mugs, 
candles, coffee, tea, sugar, spirits, meat, potatoes, bread, pens 
and ink, paper, medicine, and a gun. If there is what is 
called 'a good stage pf water,' that is, if the waters of the 
Ohio are high, which they always are in the spring and au- 
tumn, boats will be taken by the stream, without rowing, from 
three to four miles per hour. Except in cases of dense fog-, 
they can be allowed to float at night in the Ohio. In the 
Mississippi this would not be safe, the navigation of the latter 
river being both difficult and dangerous. Unless the waters 
of the Ohio are very higli at its falls near Louisville, a pilot 
should be enjjaged to navigate the boat over them. 

Mr. Mellisli says that families moving to the western coun- 
try usually travel by waggons of their own, in which case 
they provide food for themselves and their horses, and are ac- 
commodated with lodgings at the different houses where they 
stop all night. The charge for this accommodation is gene- 
rally very moderate, -and when the moving family is poor, the 
payment is often dispensed with. 

There are so many different points from whence emigrants 
set out, and to which they go, that it is difficult to form an 
estimate that will apply to them all. Probably the following 
view may be the most intelligible. 

A waggon with two horses can accommodate seven persons, 
and can travel with tolerable ease 20 miles a day, the Sundays 
being devoted to rest ; and, by travelling economically, the 
whole expence will not exceed two dollars per day, or fourteen 
dollars per week, in which the family can travel 120 miles. 
At this rate, a family of seven can travel from Connecticut to 
Cleveland, 600 miles, for 70 dollars ; or from Philadelphia to 
Zanesville, in the interior of the state of Ohio, 425 miles, for 
about 60 dollars. On the latter route, a great many waggons 
travel between Philadelphia and Pittsburg, waggon-hire being 
about five dollars per cwt. for both persons and property. 
The carriage of a family of seven, by this conveyance, would 
cost about 45 dollars, besides their board; which appears 
more in proportion than by the other mode ; but it is to be 
.observed, that in this way it is unnecessary to purchase horses 



UNITED STATES. 459 

or waggons, which, in the eastern states, are pretty dear, and 
there is no wear and tear. A considerable saving can fre- 
quently be made on both routes by water conveyance : on the 
north by lake Erie, and on the south by the Ohio river. The 
stage between Philadelphia and Pittsburg is the most agreea- 
ble and expeditious mode of 1 ravelling on that road, and is 
preferred by such as can afford the expence. 

Many emigrants, particularly those who sail from Leith, 
Shields, Sunderland, Hull, and other ports on the east of the 
kingdom, find it prudent, either on account of the cheapness 
of conveyance, or the strictness of the custom-house officers, to 
sail direct to Quebec or Montreal. Those who may chuse 
this route to New York will find the distances and expence as 
follows : 

Dollais. Hours. Miles. 

From Quebec to Montreal, by steam-boat, 10 
Montreal to St. John, _ _ - 3 
St. John to Whithall, steam-boat, - 9 
Whithall to Albany, by stages, fare 5 dol- 
lars, expences 3, - - - - 8 12 70 
Albany to New York, steam-boat, - 7 24 l60 

From Quebec to New York, - - . 37 90 603 
Or 8/. 6s. 6d. expence, performed in 3 days 1 8 hom's ; or from 
Montreal, 61. 1 s. 6d, expence, performed in 2 days 1 8 hours, dis- 
tance 517 miles. 

Clements Burleigh, esq,, who resided upwards of 30 years 
in the United States, has given the following judicious direc- 
tions to poor emigrants on landing in America. 

' I will take the liberty, as an introduction, to point out 
some stumbling blocks that have been in the way of many 
emigrants to this country. We conceive the vessel coming to 
anchor, and the passengers preparing for going ashore. On 
setting their feet on land, they look about them, see fine 
houses, gardens, and orchards, the streets crowded with well- 
dressed people, every one pursuing his own business. Well, 
the question now is, where shall I go .'' I meet a person pass. 



24 


186 


4 


37 


26 


150 



460 VIEW OF THE 

ing, and address myself to liim, requesting him to inform me 
where I can have accommodations for some short time. He 
■will point out a house which he thinks may answer my appear- 
ance, &c. I get my goods conveyed to this house. The 
landlord and his family receive me as a foreigner, and so long 
as I liave cash will have a watchful eye over me, and treat me 
according to what money I spend with them. In the mean 
time, on the arrival of an Irish ship, a crowd of poor Irish, 
who have been in that country for a number of years, are al- 
ways fond of meeting their countrymen on landing, and of 
encouraging them to take a share of grog or porter, &c. The 
feelings of the open-hearted Irishman are alive to the invita- 
tion, and some days are spent in this way, in the company of 
men who are a disgrace to the country they came from, and 
who are utterly incapable to procure themselves work, much 
less the poor emigrant. I warn emigrants, therefore, to be 
upon their guard. 

' The plan, therefore, which I would recommend, is that 
upon landing, as soon as convenient, they should divest them- 
selves of any heavy luggage, such as chests or boxes; and in 
the mean time, if they are deficient of money to carry them to 
the inland parts of the country, stop some time, and if they 
can get work apply to it, and use what they earn with econo- 
my, and keep clear of all idle company, and also be particular 
in keeping clear of a certain description of their own country- 
men. When they have acquired as much money as may help 
to bear their expences, let them put their bundles on board 
one of the waggons, loaded with merchandise foi the western 
country. By being active and obliging to the carrier on the 
way, he will charge little or nothing on your arrival at Pitts- 
burg, or Greensburg, or any other town in the western parts 
of Pennsylvania. You then take your property from tli€ 
waggon, if it suits, and make inquiry for labour.' 

Emigrants from Switzerland and Germany are numerous, 
and from patience and industry generally succeed. People of 
certain districts sometimes form themselves into a society a 
year or two before they leave, and contribute to a general 
fund, which enables them to send a few of the most intelligent 



UNITED STATES. 461 

of their number before them in order to select and prepare a 
settlement. Others are so poor as to be obliged to sell or in- 
denture themselves to a captain, who carries them out tan 
speculation. Such is also frequently the case with poor ad- 
venturers from Ireland ; and sometimes Scotch Highlandmen 
are carried out on the same plan. The hardships suffered by 
the poor creatures who are conveyed in this way to America 
have been feelingly described by an English traveller, to whom 
we have frequently referred. 

* A practice,'' says he, ' which has been often referred to in 
connection with this country, naturally excited my attention. 
It is that of individuals emigrating from Europe without mo- 
ney, and paying for their passage by binding themselves to 
the captain, who receives the produce of their labour for a cer- 
tain number of years. 

' Seeing the following advertisement in the newspapers, put in 
by the captain and owners of the vessel referred to, I visited the 
ship, in company with a boot-maker of this city (Philadelphia) : 

"THE PASSENGERS 

" On board the brig Bubona^ from Amsterdam, and who are will- 
ing to engage themselves for a limited time, to defray the expences 
of their passage, consist of persons of the following occupations, 
besides women and children, viz. 13 farmers, 2 bakers, 2 butchers, 
8 weavers, 3 tailors, 1 gardener, 3 masons, 1 mill-sawyer, 1 white- 
smith, 2 shoe-makers, 3 cabinet-makers, 1 coal-burner, 1 barber, 
1 carpenter, 1 stocking-weaver, 1 cooper, 1 wheelwright, 1 brewer, 
1 locksmith. — Apply on board of the Bubona, opposite Callowhill- 
street, in the river Delaware, or to W. Odlin and Co, No. 38, 
South Wharves. 
" Oct. 2." 

*As we ascended the side of this hulk, a most revolting 
scene of want and misery presented itself. The eye involun- 
tarily turned for some relief from the horrible picture of 
human suffering, which this living sepulchre afforded. Mr. 

enquired if there were any shoe-makers on board. The 

captain advanced : his appearance bespoke his office ; he is an 
American, tall;, determined, and with an eye that flashes with 



462 VIEW OF THE 

Algerine cruelty. He called in the Dutch language for shoe- 
makers, and never can I forget the scene which followed. 
The poor fellows came running up with unspeakable delight, 
no doubt anticipating a relief from their loathsome dungeon. 
Their clothes, if rags deserve that denomination, actually per- 
fumed the air. Some were without shirts, others had this 
article of dress, but of a quality as coarse as the worst packing 
cloth. I enquired of several if they could speak English. 
They smiled, alid gabbled, " No Engly, no Engly — one En- 
gly talk ship." The deck was filthy. The cooking, washing, 
and necessary departments were close together. Such is the 
mercenary barbarity of the Americans who are engaged in 
this trade, that they crammed into one of those vessels 500 
passengers, 80 of whom died on the passage. The price for 
women is about 70 dollars, men 80 dollars, boys 60 dollars. 
When they saw at our departure that we had not purchased, 
their countenances fell to that standard of stupid gloom which 
seemed to place them a link below rational beings. From my 
heart I execrated the European cause of their removal, which 
is thus daily compelling men to quit the land of their fathers, 
to become voluntary exiles in a foreign clime : — yet Americans 
can think and write such sentiments as the following: "We 
rejoice with the patriotic Hollanders at the return of the illus^ 
trious house of Orange to their first magistracy, and do not 
wonder at their enthusiastic joy upon the occasion, when they 
remember that this ancient family have been always the gal- 
lant and zealous defenders of the rights and liberties of ilie 
Dutch people!" 

' An interesting occurrence is said to have taken place the 
other day, in connection with the German Redemptioners (as 
by a strange misnomer the Dutch are denominated). A gen- 
tleman of this city wanted an old couple to take care of his 
house ; — a man, his wife, and daughter were offered to him 
for sale ; — he purchased them. — They proved to be his fathers' 
his mother, and sister ! ! !' 



UNITED STATES. 46S 



IV. THE PRICES OF LAXD, LABOUR, AND. PROVISIONS. 

On this important subject it is necessary to state particulars, 
and to leave the conclusion- to the reader's judgment. But as 
there is such a considerable difference in the value of money, 
and the price of laboiu- and provisions, in different states, we 
will consider each place separately. 

New Yo?-Ji. 

Prices. — The comparative expenditure for domestic Avants 
may be estimated from the following list of prices : — Beef is 
from 3^d. to 6d. per pound ; mutton, 3ld to S^d. ; veal, 5d. 
to G^d. ; ham and bacon, 7|<i. to lO^d. ; dried beef, 8i J, ; 
fowls, 1^. 9ld. to '2s. 9d. a pair; ducks, 2,j. Sd. to 2s. 9d. a 
pair; geese, 2s. 3d. to Ss. lid. each, turkeys, 3*. 4ic?. to 
to 5*. 7jrf. each; pork, G^d. to 8d. a pound; butter (fresh) 
15d. to 20]d.:, eggs, nine for 6^d.; cheese, old, 9|<i., new, 
6|f7., English, lOd. to I6d. : there' is but little of this article 
used ; that which is of American manufacture is extremely 
bad : potatoes, 3s. 4>ld. per bushel ; cabbages, 2|c?. each ; 
turnips, 2s. 2^d. per bushel ; peas, 6|c?. to lOd. per peck ; 
salt, 3*. 3d. per bushel ; milk, S^d. per quart; cpmmon fish, 
2d. to 3ifZ. per pound ; salmon, 1*. l^d. to 3*. 4d per pound; 
brown soap, 6|d ; white ditto dressed, 8jd per pound; cau- 
dles, 8^d. per pound ; moujd ditto, 1^. ; flour per barrel 
(weighing 196 pounds) is, of the best New York, 46.?. 6d. to 
49.S. 10|5. ; iTiiddling ditto, 36s. to 40*. 6d, ; rye, 31*. 6d. ; 
Philadelphia flour, 46*. l^d. to 47*. 3d. ; Indian ditto, 38*. dd. 
to 41*. 6d. ; hogshead of ditto, weighing 800 pounds, 148*. 6d. 
to 153*. ; whejit, 7*. lO^cZ. to 9*. per bushel ; rye, 6s. 4<d, 
ditto; barley, 6*. 4id. ditto; oats. Is. lOd.; hops, 19*. to 21*. 
Ohd. per pound; foreign feathers, 13|d to 14d a pound; 
American ditto, 3*. l^d.; a loaf of bread weighing 17 oz., 
S|d. ; a ditto, 34 oz.. Id. ; mustard, 3*. to 4*. a pound; table 
beer, 5*. 7|c?. for 5 gallons; common ale, 5^d. per quart; 
best ditto, '7d., wine measure ; a cask of 9 gallons of ditto, 
2-is 9d. ; apples, lOd. per peck ; lobsters, 2^d. per pound ; 



464 VIEW OF THE 

onions, (an article much used,) S^d. a rope; cucumbers, 5 for 
Is.lUl; common brown sugar, ^d. a pound; East India 
ditto, 10| J. ; lump ditto, IQ^d. ; best ditto, 16d. ; raw coffee 
bj the bag, lOfcZ. a pound ; souchong tea, 4.?. 6d. to 5s. 7f?. a 
pound; hyson, 5^. '7d. to 6s. M. ; gunpowder, 10^. lid The 
quality of provisions is, in general, very good : the beef is ex- 
cellent, mutton rather inferior to ours ; fowls are much larger 
but not better eating than the English. Candles are inferior 
to English; soap perhaps superior, at least less is required 
than of ours for any given purpose. 

Trades, Wages, 4c. — Building in New York is generally 
performed by contract. A person intending to have a house 
erected contracts with a professed builder ; the builder, with 
a bricklayer ; and he, with all others necessary to the comple- 
tion of the design. In some cases, a builder is a sort of head 
workman, for the purpose of overseeing the others ; receiving 
for his agency seven-pence per day from the wages of ea!ch 
man; the men being employed and paid by him. There are 
occasional instances in which there is no contract^ every thing 
being paid for according to measure and value. In the city, 
houses of wood are not now allowed, but in the environs they 
are very general ; and many of them handsome in appearance. 
They are commonly of two stories, and painted white, with 
green shutters. The expence of a frame (wood) house is ma- 
terially affected by situation : on an average, they will cost to 
erect about the same as a brick house in England. The 
builder is sometimes his own timber-merchant. Indeed, all 
men here know a portion, and enter a little into every thing : 
— the necessary consequence of a comparatively new state of 
society. 

The timber, or (as the term is here) lumber yards are not 
on that large and compact scale with which, in England, we 
are familiar. Mahogany yards are generally separate con- 
cerns. Oak boards are 51. 12*. 6c/, per thousand feet. Shin- 
gles, (an article used instead of tiles or slates,) 1/. 9>s. 6d. per 
thousand feet, to M'hich is to be added a duty of 15 per cent. 
Honduras mahogany is 5irf. to K^d. the superficial foot ; and 
St. Domingo, 9ld. to ITgc/. Mahogany is used for cupboards, 



UNITED STATES. 465 

doors, and banisters, and for all kinds of cabinet work. Curl 
maple, a native and most beautiful wood, is also much ap- 
proved. Veneer is in general demand, and is cut by ma- 
cliinerv. Chests of drawers are chiefly made of St. Domingo 
mahogany, the inside being faced with box-wood: shaded 
veneer and curl maple are also used for this purpose. The 
cabinet work executed in this city is light and elegant, supe- 
rior indeed to English workmanship. Some have cut glass, 
instead of brass, ornaments, which have a beautiful effect. 
The retail price of a three feet six inch chest <if drawers, well 
finished and of good quality, is 31. 16s. 6d. ; of a three feet 
ten, with brass rollers, 51 8s. A table, three feet long, four 
and a half wide, 21 Is. 6'L ; ditto with turned legs, 4/. 5,?. 6(1. ; 
three and a half long, five and a half wide, (plain,) SI. 12,?. ; 
ditto better finished, 41. 10s. ; ladies' work tables, (very plain,) 
18*. Cabinet-makers"' shops, of which there are several in 
Greenwich-street, contain a variety, but not a large stock. 
They are generally small concerns, apparently owned by jour- 
neymen, commenced on their own account. These shops are 
perfectly open, and there is seldom any person in attendance. 
In the centre, a board is suspended with the notice, ' Ring 
the bell.' Several proprietors now state their business to have 
been once good, but that there is at present too much com- 
petition. 

Chair-making here, and at tlie town of Newark, ten miles 
distant, is an extensive business. The retail price of wooden 
chairs is from 4s. 6(1. to 9s. ; of curl maple with rush seat, 
llir. ; of ditto with cane seat, 13.?. 6cl to 1/. 2*. 6fl.; of ditto, 
most handsomely finished, 1/. 9*' ; sofas, of the several de- 
scriptions enumerated above, are the price of six chairs. Ca- 
binet-makers, timber-merchants, and builders complain — they 
all say that their trades have been good, but that there is now 
a great increase in the numbers engaged, and that the times 
are so altered with the merchants that all classes feel the 
change very sensibly. 

Glass "mirrors and picture frames are executed with taste 
and elegance ; but still the most superior are imported from 
England. Carved ornaments are general, though some com- 

3 N 



466 VIEW OF THE 

position ornaments are used, Plate glass is imported from 
France, Holland, and England, the latter bearing the highest 
price. Silvering looking-glasses is a separate trade : there is 
but one silverer in New Yoik, and he is not constantly em- 
ployed. Carvers and gilders are paid 8|f/. per hour. The 
sale of prints and pictures is usually combined with this busi- 
ness. There are here two gold-beaters : one of them is a Mr. 
Jones from London. Leaf-gold is frequently imported ; but 
they consider their own equal to foreign, and it bears the same 
price, 40,9. 6d. the packet, containing 20 books. The duty 
on imported leaf-gold is 15 per cent. A capital of from 800/. 
to 2000/. would be requisite for a moderately respectable con- 
cern. A journeyman gilder would not succeed ; a carver may 
do so ; but neither trades are (to use an Americanism) of the 

first parade. 

p 

Boot and shoe-makers'' shops are numerous, some of them 
extensive. The price of sole-leather is 11(/. to 13^6^.; of 
dressed upper ditto, IIa*. Qcl. to 15*. 9^/. ; to this is to be 
added a duty of 30 per cent. , Wellington boots at the best 
shops are charged 2/. Os. (vl. ; shoes, 13*. 6d. Spanish is 
much worn for upper leather. They are made neat and with 
taste : the workmanship appears quite equal to the best Lon- 
don. The American leather is very inferior in quality. Na- 
tive workmen appear as good as English. A capital of from 
500 to 1000 dollars is requisite, in a moderate concern. A 
njaster shoe-maker will not be benefited by coming here ; a 
journeymafi may be so. 

A dyer'^s business in this city will best accord with an Eng- 
lish scowerer. The price for dyeing black woollen is Qs. per 
yard, f wide ; of brown ditto, 3*. ; red, 2*. 6d. ; yellow, 2s. 
6d. ; scarlet, 20*. a pound. There is no silk dyed in the 
skein, nor are there any silk-weavers in the United States. 
Fast blue is not done. Re-dyeing old silk is 6ld. per yard. 
English alum is from 33*. d'L to 36*. per cwt., to which is to 
be added a duty of 4*. 6d. ; brazilletto, 140*. to 160*. per 
ton ; cochineal, 24*. dd. per pound, with a duty of 7| per 
cent.; logwood, 90*. to 112*. 6d. per ton. The business is of 
necessity limited. It is moderately good, and would not re- 



UNITED STATES. 467 

quire a capital of more than from 200/. to 500/. A few jour- 
neymen are employed. They earn 9.1. 5s. per week. 

The trade of tallow-chandler is united by some with that of 
soap-boiler. Any other business may be connected with it, as 
the law raises no difficulty on the subject. The operation of 
melting must be removed a specified distance from the closely 
inhabited part of the city. The pickle-trade is of no account, 
as families prepare their own. 

The oil and colour business might be combined with that of 
tallow-chandler, though perhaps without increased advantage. 
Oil is sold at grocery-stores, and by painters. The rent of a 
house to suit an oil business, in a fourth-rate situation, (a bet- 
ter being unnecessary,) would be 13.5/. to 150/. per annum. 
A capital of from 800/. to 1200/. would suffice. For a jour- 
neyman or shopman it is a bad trade. They are paid 4*. 6d. 
to 5s. l\d. per diem. The chief work is done by apprentices. 
The Irish have got the greater part of this business; and 
they will, if possible, prevent an English journeyman from 
having employment. The wholesale prices of tallow are, fo- 
reign, 6if/. to 7^'/., with a duty of \fL\ American, 7|r/. ; of 
soap, Castile, 8^(/. to 9^'/- ; turpentine, 5|r/., with a duty of 
1 1(/. In the eastern states there is a superabundance of na- 
tive tallow, but in the south it is scarce. Barilla is not used, 
American ashes being substituted; which are from Sfr/. to 
10|?/. per bushel. A tallow-chandler in London who can save 
50/. per annum, would not be benefited in his finances by a 
removal to this country. 

Tailors are numerous : they are denominated (in conformi- 
ty with the accustomed vanity of the country) ' Merchant 
Tailors.'' Some keep rather large stocks of woollen piece- 
goods, all of which are of British manufacture. The price of 
a superfine coat 'is from 6/. Qs. to 8/. 9.s. They are paid for 
making a common coat \Ss. ; a best ditto, 27*. If a journey- 
man find the trimmings, he receives for a best coat 45*. to 51*. 
For making trowsers, 9*. Apprentices can be had for the 
terms of three, seven, or ten years ; seven is the usual period. 
A journeyman can have the work of an apprentice under him. 
If a man have not served his time, it is not of consequence in 



468 VIEW OF THE 

any business ; competency, not legal servitude, being the stan- 
dard for employment. A journeyman tailor will rank but 
among the second-rate trades, so much being done by women 
and boys. A man that can cut out will be occasionally well,- 
paid : the women not being clever in this department, makes 
the employment of men necessary. There are ready-made 
clothes shops, as in London, at which articles of a cheaper but 
inferior description are sold. Large quantities of clothing are 
imported from England, and many individuals have their re- 
gular London tailors. Black and coloured Canton crape, 
black stuff, white jean, white drill, and Nankin, are worn for 
trowsers ; jean for coats 5 gingham for jackets in the loouse : 
all of which are made by women, at from 25 to 50 per cent, 
cheaper than if men were employed. A nian will earn, when 
employed, from 865. to 54^. per week. To carry on this trade 
as a master, and with a reasonable prospec^t of success, would 
require a capital of from 500/. to 2000/. The profits are large. 
Moderate credit are received ; hnig credit is given. 

Booksellers'' shops here are extensive. Old works are scarce. 
Standard works are not so ; such as Shakespeare, Milton, 
Blair, and Johnson. Theological works (those only which 
are orthodox ) are common, and much in request. Hartley, 
Priestley, and the religious writings of Locke, are scarce, 
English novels and poetry form the primary articles of a 
bookseller's business. The}' are quickly reprinted, Walter 
Scott, Miss Owenson, Moore, Miss Edgeworth, Miss Porter, 
and Lord Byron, are favourites. The late Scotch novels 
have been very much read. The Edinburgh and Quarterly 
Reviews are reprinted by Messrs. Kirk and Mercien of this 
city. English Tory toriicrs are neither unknown nor unpo- 
pular. Booksellers deal in stationery and various fancy arti^ 
cles. Their stocks are large, but, what w'e should call in 
England, ill assorted. American editions of many British 
writings are hnecr in price, but not cheaper than those issuing 
from the London press , the size as. well as quality of paper 
being reduced. Folio is diminished to quarto, quarto to oc- 
tavo, and octavo to duodecimo. The American edition, for 
instance, of *Lalla Rookh,' bears no comparison to that of 



UNITED STATES. 469 

Messrs. Longman and Co. Common stationery is of Ameri- 
can manufacture ; the superior, of British. Books pay upon 
importation 30 per cent.; printing types, 20; paper, 30; 
wafers, 30 ; playing cards, 30. Native binding is generally 
plain and common : many of the fine London pocket editions, 
bound, have been recently imported. A capital of from 1000/. 
to 10,OOOZ. would be required in this business. 

Printers are paid 21. 5s. per week, but employment cannot 
be depended upon : a great portion of the work is done by 
boys. Stereotyping- is practised. 

The Lancastei-ian system of education is confined to free 
fichools. One or two boarding seminaries exist in New York 
for ladies separately ; but in general males and females, of all 
ages, are educated at the same establishment. The effect of 
this practice is not what might have been anticipated. Ame- 
rican females are even more distant and reserved in their man- 
ners than English : the sexes seem ranked as distinct races of 
beings, between whom social converse is rarely to be held. 
Day-schools are numerous: some of them respectable, none 
large. A teacher, that is, an usher, at any of these establish- 
ments, is a situation not worth the attention of the poorest 
man. The emigrant proprietors of seminaries are Scotch and 
Irish : an instance has not occurred of a respectable English 
schoolmaster establishing himself here. Two English ladies 
have recently commenced a boarding-school for females only: 
they have beeii moderately successful. A capital of from one 
to five hundred pounds is essential : for a day-school none is 
required. The dead languages, music, surveying, drawing, 
dancing, and French, arc taught at the superior schools: the 
latter is rather generally understood, and in some measure ne- 
cessary, French families being more frequently met with here 
than in England. At -some of the academies plays are occa- 
sionally acted. The charges at several seminaries are, for 
arithmetic, reading, and writing, per antunn, 40 dollars; for 
geography, philosophy, and the French language, 60; for 
Greek, Latin, and the mathematics, 80 dollars : these amounts 
are exclusive of board. 



470 VIEW OF THE 

Rents depend much upon situation. In the skirts of the 
town, a very small house, one story high, the front rooms of a 
moderate size, the back less, butsuited for a bed, and w-ith 
one room in the attic story, is from 12?. to 14/. per annum. 
A mechanic who has a family can have two small rooms for 
18/. a year. Many houses have closets between their rooms, 
which serve for a bed, or sometimes are used as a pantry. It 
is also no uncommon occurrence for temporary beds to he laid 
out in dining-rooms and parlours: being, of course, removed 
sufficiently early in the morning to prevent inconvenience. 
Garrets generally have no plaistered ceiling. A very small 
house, in a situation not convenient for business, containing in 
all six rooms, is worth from 75/. to 80/. a year; a similar 
house, in a better situation, 95/. to 105/. ; a ditto in a good 
street for business, 130/. to 140/. ; a ditto in first-i-ate retail 
situation, 160/. to 200/, per annum : but this is the smallest 
class of houses. A first-rate private house is from 300/. to 
350/. per annum : were it appropriated to business, the rent 
would be higher. Of a house in that part of the Broadway 
which is first-rate for retail trade, the rent of a shop and cellar 
only is 292/. 10^. ; the upper part of the house lets for 247/. 
10.?. Ground lots for building, even in the suburbs, are enor- 
mously dear. 

Philadelphia. 

Wages. — Labourers are paid 4*. Qd. to 5s. l\d. a day ; fe- 
male servants, 4^. Qd. to 9^. per week, with their board ; cooks, 
Gs dd. to 9?. ; men-servants, 54.?. to 67*. Qd. per month ; car- 
penters earn 36*. to 47*. M. per week, time of work from 
sun-rise to sun-set ; cabinet-makers, 36*. to 45* , working ge- 
nerally by the piece ; bricklayers, 31*. 6d to 45*. ; tinmen, 
27*. to 54*. ; shoemakers, 31*. 6f/. to 40*. 6d. — they work 
more hours than in London ; saddlers, 31*.' Qd. to 45*. — this 
business at present is not good ; coachmakers, 36*. to 45*. — at 
present bad here, but tolerably good at Newark in Jersey ; 
tailors, 36*. to 45*. — a variable business, sometimes. good em- 
ployment, often not, it is largely in the hands of women; 



UNITED STATES. 471 

printers, compositors and pressmen, 36^. to 45^. — employment 
tolerably good, but not certain ; apprentices perform a large 
portion of the work. 

Individuals may get employment in any of the abojp trades, 
but there is no actual want of mechanics. Many leave here 
for the southern states and the western country. Men of this 
class of society may decidedly make themselves extremely 
comfortable in this place. Those Avho are here, speaking ge- 
nerally, receive higher wages, are more independent of their 
masters, live better, have less anxiety for the morrow, drink 
more, and are less intelligent than men following the like oc- 
cupations in England. 

Prices. — The prices of fish vary from 2f/. to 6|J. per 
pound ; beef, which is of excellent quality, 4d to 5\d. ; mut- 
ton, 3| J. to ^^\d. ; veal, 5\(1. ; pork, 5\d. to Id. ; bacon, Id. 
to S^Z. ; butter, lid. to 9,0d.\ cheese, ^hd.; Enghsh ditto, 
16J. ; onions, IScZ. per peck; potatoes, Ss. ^s^d. a bushel; 
cabbages, ^\d. each ; fowls, 19.\d. to 9,s. 3d. each ; ducks, 20d 
to 25. Sd. ; geese, 3.9. 4i J. to 46'. 6d. ; turkeys, 5s. 6d. ; these 
four last articles are one half larger than those of Endand, 
but their flesh is inferior in quality ; strong beer, ^Od. per 
gallon ; apples, 3s. i'^d. per bushel ; flour, 10 dollars per bar- 
rel of 196 pounds; dipt candles are lOd. per pound ; moulds, 
l^ld. ; moist sugar, 6f (7. to 9^. ; lump ditto, 1^. to 1,?. 5d. ; 
tea, 4.?. 6d. to 9s. ; soap, 6^d. to 10^7. ; chocolate, 13 ^d. to 
20f7. ; raw coffee, lOd. to 13|d. ; Liverpool salt, 3*. 4i<:Z^ per 
bushel ; loaf of bread, weighing 2 pounds 2 ounces, 5jJ. ; 
Indian corn, per bushel, 4<s. 6d. ; buck-wheat flom*, 4*. 6d. 
Mechanics pay 13*. 6d. to 15*. 9d. per week for board and 
lodging ; many board with their employers : all eat, work, 
and sleep in companies. Moderately respectable boarding is 
from 20*. 3d to 27*. ; genteel ditto, 81*. 6d. to 54*. Charge 
at the best inns, 9*. per day, exclusive of beer and liquors. 

Shoes are 13*. 6d. to 15*. 9^ a pair ; Wellington boots, 
38*. 3d. to 45*. ; Hessian ditto, 42*. 9d. to 45*. ; jockey ditto, 
'67*. 6d.; ladies'' shoes, 4*. Gd. to 5*. 7^(7. — the leather is not 
•good; upon a fair average, two pair of English will last as. 



in2 VIEW OF THE 

long as three pair of American; the best beaver hats arc 
40*. 6d. ; superfine cloth coats, 8/. 1*. 6d. ; surtout ditto, 
IIZ. 5*. ; pantaloons and trowsers, 46*. to 54*.; waistcoats, 
27*. Clothes made of inferior materials, are from 25 to 50 
per cent, lower. India and French silks, China crapes for 
ladies' dresses, and India handkerchiefs, are one half cheaper 
than in England. Other articles of wearing apparel, and 
almost every thing used in domestic economy, are of British 
manufacture. They pay an import duty of 25 per cent., and 
when retailed, are from 25 to 100 per cent, dearer than in 
London. 

Alexandria. 

Wages. — In this district, labourers, during harvest, receive 
about three dollars per day. Tailors have from five to six 
dollars and a half for making a coat ; shoe-makers, one dollar 
or one and a quarter for making a pair of shoes ; blacksmiths 
are paid txvo dollars per day, and are found in provisions; 
joiners and masons are paid from two and a half to three dol- 
lars per day, and coopers three dollars. 

Prices. — House-rent is excessively high in this part. An 
ordinary house costs about 300 dollars per annum ; and wood 
or coals costs a small family about four dollars every month. 
Provisions are moderate. Beef, nuitton, pork, and veal, are 
from 2rf. to 4c/. per pound ; and bread both much cheaper 
and better than what is generally used in England. Milk, 
butter, and vegetables, are high. Rum, 3*. 6d. per gallon ; 
whiskey, 3*. ; and brandy, 4*. 6^/. Excellent porter is sold at 
5d. per bottle. Furniture more elegant and cheaper than in 



England. 



Piitshv/rg. 



Prices. — Beef and mutton are 3d to 4|c?. per pound ; pork, 
4|rf. to 5d; cheese, 9|d to \4d.; butter, 10(?. to 20c/,; tea, 
6*. 9f/. to 12*. ^d. ; moist sugar, 13idf. ; loaf, 9>0d. to 9*. Id. ; 
coffee, 9.0d. ; potatoes, 2*. 3J. to 3*. 4|<Z. per bushel ; porter, 
6|d. per quart ; fowls, \^\d. each ; ducks, 9X)d. ; geese, 2*. 



UNITED STATES. 473 

3d. to 2s. 4|d ; turkeys, 3^. 4^c?. to 5^. 8c?. ; flour, 27*. to 
31*. 6d. per barrel of 196 pounds ; coal, 4(7. per bushel. Me- 
chanics'' board, 15*. dd. to 18*. per week. 

Wages. — Tailors earn from 31.9. (jd. to 4.5* per week, are 
now well employed ; carpenter, 3U\ 6d. to 40*. 6(1 , dull ; 
baker, 31*. Gd. to 40*. 6d., dull ; mason, 34*. .to 45*. brisk ; 
shoe-maker, 31*. 6'/. to 36*., brisk ; blacksmith, 31*. Gd. to 
86*., dull ; tinman, from 36*. to 45*., dull ; printer, from 
31*. to 36*., dull; weaver, no employment; glass-blower, 
31*. 6d. to 45*., dull ; glass-cutter, 31*. 6d. to 67*. 6^/., dull ; 
hatter, 31*. 6d. to 45.9., brisk ; brewer, 36*., dull ; nail-cutter, 
31*. 6d. to 36*., brisk. 

Ohio. 

The prices at Cincinnati in this state are as follows : Beef 
and mutton are from 2(1. to Sif/. per pound; veal, 4(/. ; pork, 
2^d. to 4^^/. ; potatoes, ^2s. od. a bushel ; flour, 27*. a barrel 
of 196 pounds; fowls, 10^/. each; geese, 2*. 3d. each; tur- 
keys, 3*. 4|r/. to 4*. 6d.; moist sugar, 13d. a pound; loaf 
ditto, 20.'/. ; porter, 27*. to 31*. 6d. per barrel of 32 gallons, 
6^d. per quart; cider, 11*. 3d. per barrel; gin, 5*. l^d. per 
gallon ; wliiskey, 2*. 8(/. ; brandy, 13*. 6d. to 18*. ; rum, 11*. 
3d.; shoes, 13*. 6d. to 15*. 9^/. per pair; Wellington boots, 
36*. to 40*. 6d. ; Hessian ditto, 49*. 6d. to 54*. ; superfine 
blue cloth, 2/. 18*. 6d. to 3/. 7*. 6d. per yard ; making a 
coat, 27*.; hats, of American manufacture, 31*. 6d. to 45*.; 
rent of two small rooms, 18/. per annum ; ditto of a small 
house in a third or fourth-rate situation, from 33/. 15*. to 67/. 
10*. The general average of houses, in good business situa- 
tions, is from 90/. to 137/. 10*. per annum : taxes trifling. 
Women servants are paid 20*. od. to 29*. 3d. per month ; 
men ditto, 63*. to 72*. Mechanics'" board and lodging per 
week, 13*. (Jd.; respectable ditto, 18*. to 22*. 6(/. ; ditto at 
the best inns, 47*. 3d. Thege charges are enormously dis- 
proportionate to t!ie rate of provisions ; although large rents^ 
dear clothing, and high price of lat)our, are items of no small 
importance in the hotel and boarding-house keepers'* calcula- 
tions, and for which allowances should fairly be made. The 

3 O 



474 VIEW OF THE 

wages of mechanics, in all trades suited to the present condi- 
tion of the country, vary from 36*. to 45*. per week. Tailors, 
sho'ft-niakers, carpenters, blacksmiths, masons, and saddlers, 
ar0 good trades, and at present are in full employ : these may 
bte denominated first-rate; tinmen, bakers, and hatters, se- 
cond-rate ; printers, third-rate ; for the weaver there is no 
employment. A watch-maker, as such, could not obtain a 
subsistence, watches not being manufactured in America ; 
such a mechanic possibly could get a living by mending 
watches, and attending to every department of silversmiths' 
work. It is thought there is an opening for a dyer, there 
being but one in the town, — an old woman. 

Albany. 

Shopkeepers here complain most bitterly of the state of 
trade. A large body of mechanics recently left here for want 
of employment ; — the wages given to those who remain are 
the same as at New York: their board is three dollars per 
week. Rent of a house and shop in a good situation is from 
500 to 700 dollars per annum, and the taxes about 20 dollars. 
There are many small wood houses, which are from 50 to 150 
dollars per annum, according to size and situation. Beef, 
mutton, and veal, are 5(1. to GirA per pound; fowls, 8^/. to 
Ogx/. each; ducks, Ifi^/. to 16r/. ; geese, 2*. 3^/. ; butter, \M. 
a pound ; potatoes, 20^/. a bushel ; flour, 45*. a barrel ; fish, 
4c/. to 7;/. a poiuid ; rum and gin, 4*. 6(/. per gallon ; brandy 
and hollands, 9*. 6 /. 

Western Country. 

Throughout the whole western countr}', mechanics are well 
paid for their labour. Carpenters have one dollar per day 
and their board ; if they board themselves, one dollar and a 
quarter. Other trades have in proportion. Labourers are 
paid one dollar per day. Living is cheap. Flour is 5 dollars 
pel- barrel ; beef, 4 cents or 2f/. per lb. ; fowls, 121 cents each. 
House-rent for mechanics is about 60 dollars per annum* 
Wood, one dollar and a quarter per cord, laid down. Me- 
chanics"' board, two or three dollars per week. Thus it ap- 



UNITED STATES. 475 

pears that an industriotis, healthy, sober man, may save two 
days' wages each week, or one-third of his income. There are 
indeed few so provident; but tliose who can resist the tempta- 
tions to drink, iway live well and save money. 

We could extend this article to a great length : but too 
many particulars would only tend to perplex the anxious en- 
quirer; and the preceding will afford a good criterion for 
judging of tiie encouragement offered to the labouring classes 
in the States, which have been very properly and emphatically 
termed, ' The poor Man's Country.' Much of the foregoing- 
information is derived from a gentleman who devoted his at- 
tention to the subject, and whose correctness in matters of fact 
has never been disputed. We cannot, however, close without 
quoting the prices as given by ]Mr. Cobbett, whose informa- 
tion on this, as well as on every other subject, will be differ-' 
ently estimated by different people. 

' Every man may see what this country is. But I should 
suppose these facts were enough : The common day wages for a 
common labourer is a dollar. Beef is Sd. (English money) a 
pound ; mutton, 2ir/. ; lami), 4:cl. ; veal, ■id. ; hog-meat, 5f/. ; 
flour (the best), 2lt{. ; spirits, about 2*. a gallon ; sugar, half' 
the English price; tea, soap, candles, the same; tobacco and 
salt, about an eighth part of the English price; shoes, cheaper 
than in England by one-third ; linen and woollen, the same 
price as in England ; all India goods, half the English price ; 
malt, half the price ; hops, a third part of the price of hops in 
England ; sweet oil, a third part ; claret wine, ten-pence 
(English money) a quart, while in England it is six or eight 
shillings ! cheese, butter, eggs, all for t'oo-thirds, at most, of 
the English price. Journeymen tradesmen earn, on an ave^ 
rage, about a dollar and three-quarters a day ; or 7ii7ie shil- 
lings, English money. It is then impossible that any, but the 
sick, lame, or lazy, should be unfortunate.' 

The Shamrock Society of New York, in their Hints to 
Emigrants, sav, ' Industrious men need never lack employ- 
ment in America. Labourers, carpenters, masons, bricklayers, 
stonecutters, blacksmiths, turners, weavers, farmers, curriers, 
tailors, and shoe-makers, and the visefid mechanics generally, 



476 VIEW OF THE 

are always sure of work and wages. Stonecutters now receive, 
in this city, (New York,) two dollars a day, equal to nine 
shillings sterling; carpenters, one dollar and eighty-seven and 
a half cents ; bricklayers, two dollars ; labourers, from one 
dollar to one and a quarter; others in proportion. At this 
time, (July, 1816,) house-carpenters, bricklayei's, masons, and 
stonecutters, are paid three dollars per day in Petersburgh, 
Virginia. The town was totally consumed by fire about a 
year since, but it is now rising from its ashes in more elegance 
than ever. Mechanics will find ample employment there for 
perhaps two years to come."' 

It is customary in America for mechanics to work from sun- 
rise to sun-set. This time appears oppressively long to an 
Englishman, and it is certainly an impolitic arrangement, the 
'necessity for wb.ich no longer exists. But then in the northern 
states mechanics, in general, take too much relaxation in win- 
ter, during which the money accumulated in a toilsome sum- 
mer is too often squandered away. In the southern states, 
the heat of the climate renders frequent intervals of rest abso- 
lutely necessary. 

The Americans are peculiarly handy. They know and can 
do a little of every thing. In this case, they have greatly the 
advantage of an English labourer, who has to learn a great 
deal before he can expect the same wages that are paid to a 
native. In the dexterous use of the spade we certainly sur- 
pass them ; but then the spade is very little used in the States, 
the plough being introduced wherever it is possible. 

Price of Land. — The price of land is various, according to 
situation and quahty. The United States lands, as before 
stated, are 2 dollars per acre on credit, or 1 dollar 64* cents 
cash ; but purchases can often be made of individuals on bet- 
ter terms, particularly from those who hold very large tracts. 
The land tax on a large tract is heavy, and after paying it a 
few years, without getting any return, the holders, particularly 
non-residents, are glad to sell out at any price. This circum- 
stance, connected with that of the United States holding such 
large tracts of land at a low price, will always operate against 
land speculations on a large scale. The only mode in which a 



UNITED STATES. 477 

land trade can be profitable is to purchase a tract for cash, 
subdivide it into farms of different sizes to accommodate dif- 
ferent settlers, and dispose of them at fair prices as soon as 
possible. In this way the land trade is fair and honourable, 
being exactly similar to that of buying any other commodity 
by wholesale, and selling it by retail ; the public are accom- 
modated, and the land-dealer has his certain reward. In any 
other way speculations in land are hazardous. Good lands 
rise in value certainly : but such as speculate in them on a 
large scale, with a view of making money, will in all probabi- 
lity be disappointed ; for the accumulation of interest, and the 
operation of the land-tax, will be found, generally, to amount 
to more than the rise on the lands. 

Nezv Yorl'. 

In Long Island and the vicinity of New York, land is rising 
rapidly in value. Land is worth from 8/. 7^. 6d. to 34/. per 
acre. Farmers do not succeed very well, from the indifference 
of soil, high price of labour, and general want of capital. The 
breed of horses is good, but not large : one fit for a waggon is 
worth 22/. 10.y. ; a saddle or drawing horse, 35/. ; gig horse, 
33/. 15.9. to 561. 5s. ; carriage ditto, 90/ to 120/. ; fine riding 
ditto, 90/. to 120/. Cows are worth— lean, 9/.; fat, 11/. 5s. 
to 13/. 10s. Pigs are sold, per pound, alive; the present 
price is Id. ; sheep, 9s. They are very small : an entire car- 
case is not much larger than a Leicestershire leg of mutton. 
A sheep, when fattened for market, is 13.s. 6d. A good farm 
cart is worth 7/. to 9/. ; a ditto waggon, 22/. to 23/. ; a farmer''s 
man-servant, 24/. to 30/. per year ; a ditto woman, 12/. to 16/. 
Early wheat is cut in the middle of July. The wheat and 
rye harvest is completed by the end of August ; buck-wheat, 
in October; Indian corn, ditto; oats, middle of August; 
grass, from 1st to the end of July. The seed for winter, rye 
and wheat, is sown from end of August to end of September. 

Pennsylvania. 

There are good farms within 20 miles of Philadelphia, which 
can be purchased at from 80 to 100 dollars per acre, buildings 



478 VIEW OF THE 

inclnclc'd. Limestone land will sell for 200 dollars. In a 
farm of 200 acres, the proportion may be estimated at 90 acres 
of ploughing. 50 of meadow, 10 of orchard, and 50 of wood 
land. Tiie latter, near the city, is worth ?j to 400 dollars per 
acre. A farm of the above description is worth, if within five 
miles of tlie ca]:)ita], 20,000 dollars ; at from 20 to 40 miles' 
distance, 10,000 dollars, [j^nclcared lands, in remote parts of 
the state, vary in price ft'oni half a dollar to 20 dollars per 
acre. 

The Pennsylvanian horse is a niedlnm betv,'een our saddle 
and heavy cart horses, and is well suited ibr most j)urposes. 
They are worth from 50 tf) 150 dollars (11/. 2.?. Qd to 33Z. T*. 
fie/.). A iarra waggon uill cost 100 to 120 dollars (22/. 10*. 
to 27/.) i ^ family ditto, 70 to 90 dollars; ditto with springs, 
150 dollars ; neat gig, 300 ; best ditto, 450 ; a farm cart, 50 
dollars. The annual expence of keeping a family waggon 
and horse is about 50 dollars. 

Well-imprm'ed land will produce, on an average, 25 bushels 
of wheat per aero (a farmer within eight miles of the city has 
raised 40) ; ditto of Indian corn, 25 to 50. Wheat is sold at 
from 160 to 220 cents {Is. M. to 9.?. Wcl) per bushel ; Indian 
corn, 80 to 100 cents (3*. Id. to 4,9. fx/.) ; oats, 40 to 55 cents 
(1*. 9^/. to 2*. 5^f7.) : they are lighter than the English. 
Meadows dre usually ploughed in rotation, and planted with 
Indian corn. Orchards are also put under the plough, grain 
not being considered as injurious to the fruit. A good milch 
cow, four years old, is worth 51. 13-?. 6fZ. Sheep are much 
smaller than ours. Half-blood Merino are 11.9. 3f/.; three- 
quarters blood, 13.9. Qd. ; full ditto, 22.9. ()V7. ; rams are 4/. 10.9. 
to 11/. 9.S. 6f/. ; pigs four weeks old are 2*. 3f/. ; a sow and 
<]itto, 1/. 11.9. M. to 2/. 14.9. ; a hog of 100 pounds, 1/. 11*. ^. 
to 2/. 5-9. ; a yoke of oxen, 15/. 15*. to 28/. 10*. 

Pittshu7-g'. 

Land in the neighbourhood of Pittsburir is worth 100 dol- 
lars per acre. At a distance of from five to twenty miles, 
tracts of from 100 to 500 acres, containing meadow, pasturage, 
arable, and part covered with wood, have been recently said 



UNITED STATES. 479 

at from 20 to 50 dollars per acre. Wheat brings a dollar a 
bushel; Indian corn, 75 cents a bushel. A four year old 
cart-horse is worth from i20 to 30 dollars; a gig ditto, 50 to 
100; a saddle ditto, 20 to 150; a larmcr'^ waggon, 100 dol- 
lars ; a family ditto, from 50 to 70 ; cart, 50. Sheep are 
from one to three dollars ; live hogs from 2hd. to 4A^. a 
pound ; a good roasting pig, 4.9. 6d. Wool is but little in 
demand since the termination of the w'ar. Clean Merino is 
worth here Ss. 8cl. to 6s. 9d. per pound ; fleece, 3s. 5d. ; half- 
bred, 2s. 3d. ; quarter, 2U. A brick house, two stories high, 
containing ten rooms, may l>e built, with good management, 
in the country for 4000 dollars (1)00^.), as the bricks can be 
made upon the land, and the ' help' boarded in the house. In 
towns, a similar building will cost 6000 dollars (1350/.) exclu- 
sive of the ground, which, in particular situations, as of all 
towns that promise well^ is dearer than the most choice spot in 
the city of London ! 

JieutucJci/. 

The price of lands in this state dejx^nds on a variety of cir- 
cumstances, such as the convenience of shipping produce, the 
contiguity of the same to some populous town, the quality of 
the land, its water privileges, and the permanency of such 
streams. A general estimation may be made as follows: — 
Those within 5 miles of" its capital are from 20 to 40 dol- 
lars per acre; 5 to 10 miles, lO to 2() dollars; lO to 15 
miles, from 5 to 15 dollars. This statement supposes no 
improvements to have been made on the land. , Such land 
is computed to produce from 50 to 75 bushels of Indian corn 
per acre, and very frequently 100 bushels when well tilled 
As wheat requires land not so rich, its produce is less, being 
from 20 to 30 bushels per acre ; 30 to 40 of oats ; 20 to 30 of 
rye; 1000 to 1500 pounds of tobacco, and about the same 
quantity of hemp, may be taken as fair averages, although 
frequently a much greater quantity is produced. ' The price 
of good field negroes is now about 800 dollars. The annual 
cxpence of such hands may be estimated at from 75 to 100 
dollars ; ditto for clothing, at from 12 to 15 more ; — sav toge- 



480 VIEW OF THE 

ther 87 to 115, or an average of 100 dollars per annum. 
Their provisions diifer but little from hired white servants." 
In general, farmers command a ready cash sale for their pro- 
duce. The old custom of carrying it to the New Orleans 
market is nearly superseded by the creation of a new order of 
tradesmen, who are a medium between the western farmer and 
the Orleans merchant. 

Ohio. 

In the state of Ohio, the United States' lands sell at two 
dollars per acre. ' Taxes on wild land,' says Fearon, ' are, on 
first-rate 2 dollars per hundred acres; 1| dollar on second- 
rate ; one dollar on third-rate. There is also a county-tax of' 
half the above amounts, as the case may be. These taxes of 
Gs. 9d. to 13-s. 6d. on an hundred acres are certainly very 
small, at least with our English ideas of taxation and of pro- 
duce ; yet you would be astonished to witness the numerous 
lots of land which are sold at auction in all the states on ac- 
count of non-payment of taxes. I have seen lists in the news- 
papers, and at the taverns, which could not contain less in 
each than four hundred names of defaulters, whose property 
was to be transferred to the highest bidder.' 

Well-prepared land in this state produces, per acre, 30 
bushels of wheat ; 50 to 75 of Indian corn ; 50 to 75 of rye. 
Horses are worth from 40 to 100 dollars (9^. to 22?. 10,9.) 
Cows, (four years old,) 12 to 20 dollars (54*. to 90*.) The 
yearly wages of a labouring man is from 58/. 10*. to 651. ; of 
a woman, 31/. 10*. 

Illinois. 

Private sales at the land-office are here, as in all other parts 
of the Union, fixed at 2 dollars, or 1 dollar 64 cents for 
prompt payment. The public sales by auction have not, for 
the most choice tracts, exceeded six dollars per acre : the old 
French settlements are from 1 to 50 dollars per acre. The 
land-tax is levied on the same principle as described in Ohio. 
The military bounty lands in this state amount to 3,500,000 
acres. They are appropriated to the soldiers who were en- 



UNITED STATES. 481 

gaged in the late war, and are frequently sold by them in the 
eastern states, for a quarter and a half dollar per acre. In- 
dian corn (maize) is the leading article of produce. There 
are some fields of 500 acres, cultivated in common by the peo- 
ple of a whole settlement. Wheat is abundant, except where 
the soil is too rich. Flax, hemp, oats, potatoes, and cotton 
are also productive, giving very considerable crops. The 

1 French have made excellent wine from a wild grape, which 

I grows here luxuriantly. Indian corn produces, with moderate 
care, and in a favourable soil, 50 to 70 bushels per acre ; 
wheat, 20 to 30 ; barley, 20 to 30 ; oats, 30 to 50 ; tobacco, 
10 to 13 hundred. Indian corn sells from 13d to I6i<i. per 

I bushel; wheat, 3s. 4^d. ; oats, Id^d.; tobacco, 20*. M. per 
hundred. The price of horses is from ISl lOs. to 18/. ; cows, 
4/. to 51. ; a good sow, 2/. 14*. ; beef is sold at 22,s. 6d. per 
hundred ; pork, 15,y. dd. to 18.9. Labourers are paid 2i'. Sd. 
per dav, and board. Clothing and groceries are extremely 
dear. Indian corn is jratliered in November. Wheat is cut 
in June, and housed in July. Pork for exportation is killed 
in December. Freight from Sliawnee town to Louisville (dis- 
tance 307 miles) is 5s. per cwt. ; Jrom Louisville, 1*. 8d. ; 

Ji-om Shawnee to New Orleans, (distance 1130 miles,) 4*. 6d. ; 

Jrom New Orleans, 20a\ 3d. ; Shawnee to Pittsburg, (distance 
10l3 miles,) 15s. 9d. ; Jrom Pittsburg, 4,9. 6d. This vast 
disproportion in charge of freight is produced by the difference 
in time, in navigating up and dormi the streams of the Ohio 
and Mississippi. A log cabin of two rooms can be raised for 
111. 5s. to 16/. ; a frame house, 10 to 14 feet square, for 130/. 
to 150/. ; a log kitchen, 11. to 8/. ; a log stable, 7/. to 9/. ; a 
barn, 18/. to 22/. ; fencing, V3d. per rood , ditching, in pi*airie 
land, 16d. to 2*. per rood. 

New England. 

Arable land, in the immediate neighbourhood of Boston, is 
worth from 50 to 100 dollars per acre (11/. 2.9. 6d. to 22/. 5s.)y 
farm-house and buildings included. The same quantity of 
land, at from 8 to 30 miles from Boston, brings from 20 to 30 
dollars; — meadow and pasturage, from 10 to 30 dollars; or- 
21 3 P 



482 VIEW OF THE 

chard ditto, 50 to 100 dollars per aa'e. Wood land, near 
towns, is, of course, more valuable than any other, its worth 
also increasing yearly. Moderate-sized farms usually contain 
all the different kinds of land, in, of course, varied propor- 
tions. Plaister of Paris is used for manure. There are some 
rich farmers in the New England states, but generally it is not 
an occupation by which more than a living can be obtained. 

Gentlemen-farmers do not make more than from two to 
three per cent, of their capital. The more wealthy farmers, 
from 20 to 40 miles from Boston, own large pastures, at the 
distance of from 30 to 60 miles from their residence ; and in 
the mountainous parts of New Hampshire and Vermont, cattle 
and sheep are fattened for the Boston market. 

V. THE BIGHTS AND DUTIES OF A PEUMANENT SETTLER. 

A person who lands in America with the intention of set- 
tling, ought, as soon as possible, to acquire a correct notion of 
the laws and duties required of him by tlie society which he 
has adopted. This subject is explained with considerable 
clearness by the committee of the Shamrock Society, and 
which we will therefore ])resent to our readers. 

' Before an}' other step towards forming a settlement, the 
stranger should take the proper measures for acquiring citizen- 
ship; and the advantages of this are important and obvious, 
independent of its conferring political privileges. Without it 
you will remain exempted, indeed, by mild laws, from wrong ; 
but destitute of some valuable positive rights. The alien, in 
most of the states, is not entitled to hold any lands, can ob^ 
tain no office under the state, nor participate in the shipping 
interest of the country. 

' It is fit the emigrant should be distinctly apprised (for it 
will conciliate his attachment and gratitude to the country of 
his adoption) that no where in the world is a well-conducted 
foreigner received into the bosom of the state with equal libe- 
rality and readiness as in America. When, on the 4th of- 
July, 1776, the congress unanimously adopted a Declaration 
of Independence, and delivered their country from the domi- 



UNITED STATES. 483 

nion of the king of England, this was one of the complaints 
alleged against him : " He has endeavoured to prevent the 
population of these states; for that purpose obstructing the 
laws for naturalization of foreigners.'' The same liberal feel- 
ing has prevailed in the government of the United States, from 
that memorable day to this, with one exception, during the 
administration of president Adams. The stranger, however, 
is certainly exposed to incidents which may lead him to doubt 
the truth of this assertion. He may light upon an ignorant, 
a prejudiced, or illiberal wretch, who will manifest an ill will 
towards him, because he is a foreigner, and perhaps revive 
British and royalists' taunts in a new form : but these, the 
scum of a country, are totally insignificant when compared 
with the mass of the people. The best men in America have 
always been i-eady to welcome the valuable emigrant, the 
stranger of moral and industrious habits. An author, eminent 
as a statesman, a scholar, and philosopher, speaking in his 
Discourse to the Philosophical Society of New York, of the 
advantages which Cicero boasted that Rome had derived from 
Athens, adds — 

*' We are perhaps more favoured in another point of view. 
Attica was peopled from Egypt ; but we can boast of our de- 
scent from a superior stock — I speak not of families or dynas- 
ties ; 1 refer to our origin from those nations where civilization, 
knowledge, and refinement, have erected their empire, and 
where human nature has attained its greatest perfection. An- 
nihilate ..Holland, Great Britain, Ireland, France, and Ger- 
many, and what would become of civilized man ? This 
countrv, young as it is, would be the great Atlas remaining to 
support the dignity of the world. And, perhaps, our mingled 
descent from various nations may have a benign influence 
upon genius. We perceive the improving effects of an analo- 
gous state upon vegetables and inferior animals. The extra- 
ordinary character which the United States have produced 
may be, in some measure, ascribed to the mixed blood of so 
many nations flowing in our veins : and it may be confidently 
said, the operation of causes, acting with irresistible effect, will 
carry, in this country, all the improvable faculties of human 



484 VIEW OF THE 

nature to the highest state of perfection." (See Clmtoi-Cs hu 
ttoductory Discourse.) ^ 

' You will, however, observe, that the privilege of citizen- | 
ship is not granted without proper precautions; to secure 
that, while the worthy are admitted, the unworthy should, if 
practicable, be rejected. You will from hence deduce the 
importance of good moral habits, even to the acquisition of ^ 
political rights, ' 

' The steps to be taken by a foreigner preparatory to, and 
for the purpose of his being naturalized, are these: — ■; 

' 1st. He must, at least five years before he can be admit- j 
ted a citizen of the United States, report himself at the oflfice ' 
of one of the courts of record, within the state or territory 
where he may be ; and in that report set forth his name, 
birth-place, age, nation, and prior allegiance, together with 
the country which he has left to come into the United States, 
and the place of his intended settlement. In general, forms 
of this report will be furnished by the clerk of the court, who . 
will also give a certificate under the seal of the court, that the 
report has been made and filed. This certificate must be 
carefully kept, for the purpose of being produced at the time 
of application for admission to citizenship. ; 

' This step of reporting one's arrival is indispensable, and 
ought to be taken as soon as possible, because the five years of 
probation begin to be counted only from the date of the report ; 
and the time which a foreigner may have previously spent in 
the country cannot be rendered of any service towards his na- 
turalization. 

'2d. At least three years before the alien can be natu- 
ralized, he must appear before some one of the courts of re- 
cord, within the state or territory where he may be, and there 
declare, on oath, that it is in good faith his intention to become 
a citizen of the United States ; to renounce, for ever, all alle- 
giance and fidelity to any sovereign prince, potentate, state, 
or sovereignty whatever; and particularly, by name, to the 
prince, potentate, state, or sovereign, whereof he may, at the 
time, be a citizen or subject. This oath, or affirmation, which 
must have been made at least three years before the admission 



UNITED STATES. 485 

or citizenship, may be made at any convenient time after the 
report of" arrival. Indeed, it is sometimes made on the same 
day, so as to save trouble, and prevent disappointment from 
future negligence or forgetfulness. For another reason that 
will be presently pointed out, the sooner it is done the safer 
and the better. The clerk of the court also gives a certificate 
that this oath or affirmation lias been duly made, which, like 
the former, must be carefully kept, for the purpose of being 
produced at the time of applying for naturalization. 

'3d. At this period, the applicant, after producing both 
those certificates, must declare on oath, or afiirmation, before 
some of the same courts, that he will support the constitution 
of the United States. He must also satisfy the court (which 
cannot be done by the affidavit of the applicant himself, and is 
usually done by the affidavits of two respectable citizens, who 
know and can testify to the facts) that he has resided within 
the United States five years at least, and within the state or 
territory where he applies to be admitted at least one year, 
and that durino; such time he has behaved as a man of good 
moral character, attached to the principles of the constitution 
of the United States, and well disposed to the good order and 
happiness of the same. The clerk will thereupon make out 
a certificate of naturalization, under the seal of the court; 
which should be carefully kept, and ready to be produced 
whenever it may be requisite. 

* The liberality of congress has extended the benefits of this 
admission to citizenship beyond those who perform these re- 
quisites ; for the children of a person so naturalized, being 
under age, and dwelling in the United States at the time of 
their parents' naturalization, also become citizens And still 
further, if any alien who shall have regularly reported himself, 
and made oath or affirmation declaratory of his intentions, 
(which, as we have seen, must precede his own admission by 
three years,) should unfortunately die before he was actually 
naturalized, his widow and children would thenceforth be con- 
sidered as citizens of the United States, and be entitled to all 
rights and privileges as such, upon taking the oaths prescribed 



486 VIEW OF THE 

bj law. ' This provision, therefore, furnishes a very strong 
inducement for losing no time in taking the oath declaratory 
of the party's intention. 

' In the interval between the emigrant's choosing a place of 
abode, and completing the five years of probationary residence, 
which must elapse before he can become a citizen of the United 
States, he will do well to familiarise himself with the state of 
parties, and acquire a correct knowledge of our constitutions 
of civil government. He will become a respectable and capa- 
ble citizen in proportion to his information and virtue. Libe- 
rality and justice are the leading principles of our government, 
which, as it secures liberty and property, and neither makes 
nor suffers religious distinctions, better deserves the fidelity 
of good men than the tyrannical governments of Europe. 
Our's maintains the rights of the people ; thcir's, the absolute 
power of princes. 

'No emigrant ought to stay more than one week in the 
country, without endeavouring to procure the constitution of 
the United States, and, at least, that of the state in which he 
means to reside. The Federal Constitution, and those of the 
several states, are printed and hound together in a neat pocket 
volume, with the Declaration of Independence, and form a 
Political Bible, well deserving the study of every reflecting 
republican. 

' The greater part of our state constitutions were formed 
soon after the Declaration of Independence was proclaimed by 
congress. By them are regulated the internal local relations 
of citizens in each state ; they constitute the main guards of 
our freedom. The general government (whose constitution 
was formed by delegates from twelve states, assembled in con- 
vention at Philadelphia, in 1787) has the sole direction of our 
foreign affinrs, and the mutual relations of the states. The 
government of the United States is administered by a presi- 
dent and vice-president, elected for four years ; by a senate of 
two members from each state, elected for six years; by a 
house of representatives, chosen for two years by the people ; 
and by judges, kc. appointed according to law. The senators 



UNITED STATES. 48T 

are elected by the states, and this feature of the constitution is 
deemed federal ; the representatives are elected by the people, 
and here the constitution is more particularly national. 

' In each of these states there is a governor and two legisla? 
tive branches chosen by tlie people, or their representatives, 
according to each constitution. The governor in each state 
is, bv virtue of his office, commander-in-chief of the militia of 
the same. 

' When the federal constitution was formed, it was laid be- 
fore the people, who, in each state, chose a convention to adopt 
or reject it. It was debated in every convention with uncom- 
mon ardour, and finally adopted in 1788. The speeches 
made on those occasions shed streams of light on the science 
of government, and its just division of power : neither foreign- 
ers nor natives can read them too carefully. 

' During the discussion of the federal constitution, advocates 
of some of its most federative provisions were called Federal- 
ists. But when it was adopted it became the law to all, and 
was in all its parts sincerely agreed to by all ; those opposite 
terms, therefore, ceased to be properly applicable any longer. 
Yet a political party seized hold of the epithet, which was 
merely occasional, and have made it perpetual. They are 
called Federalists to this day, without any reference to the 
origin of the term ; the opposite party are known as Republi- 
cans or Democrats, terms significant of their attachment to 
popular government. The federal party, on the contrary, or, 
to ppeak more correctly, many of their leaders, are thought to 
j have a leaning towards aristocracy. 

* We ought never to be the slaves or dupes of mere names ; 
and it will become the duty of a good citizen to act with one 

i party or the other, as far as he thinks its means more honour- 
iable,' and its objects more just. 

* When the federal party were in power, a law was passed 
[authorising the president of the United States to send friendly 

aliens out of the country, on mere suspicion, without the in- 
tervention of judge or jury ! This is remembered as the 
Alien Act. Moreover, citizenship could not be then acquired 
without a previous residence ol" fourteen years. 



488 VIEW OF THE 

'On the 4th of March, 1801, a democratic administration 
came into power ; president Jefferson having been chosen in- 
stead of ]\Ir. Adams. The acts of the government soon ma- 
nifested a more Hberal spirit. The following passage from 
Mr. Jefferson's message to congress, December 8, 1801, had 
its influence on, or harmonised with, the general opinion as to 
the impolicy (to say the least) of the inhospitable acts which 
we have just mentioned : — 

" I cannot omit reconmiending a revival of the laws on the 
subject pi' naturalization. Considering the ordinary chances 
of human life, a denial of citizenship under a residence of 
fourteen years is a denial to a great proportion of those who 
ask it, and controls a policy pursued from their first settlement 
by many of the states, and still believed of consequence to their 
prosperity, &c. &c. Shall oppressed humanity find no asylum 
on this globe ? The constitution, indeed, has wisely provided 
that, for admission to certain offices of important trust, a resi- 
dence shall be required sufficient to develope character and 
design. But might not the general character and capabilities 
of a citizen be safely communicated to every one manifesting 
a bona Jidc purpose of embarking his life and fortunes perma- 
nently with us .?■" 

'Let us not be suspected of indulging in narrow prejudices, 
of inflaming party feeling, or saying that one set of politicians 
are exclusively the friends of aliens, another entirely hostile ; 
we have given you specimens, of the policy of each. The sen- 
timents of Mr. Jefferson, just cited, reflect great credit on his 
head and heart. So far, however, from inviting aliens to 
plunge into politics, we dissuade them from it , it is their duty 
to be modest observers of parties and principles ; it is their 
part to form opinions, but not to meddle ; to see, but not to 
touch; to look on, but not to interfere; until having been 
five years spectators of the busy and important movements of 
a nation of freemen, they may become actors in their turn, 
under the solemn obligation which citizenship imposes. 

' The source of every blessing, and itself the most valuable 
of all which America offers to the emigrant, is a degree of 
civil and political liberty more ample, and better secured, in 



UNITED STATES. 489 

this republic than any where in the whole world besides. The 
persecutions of kings and priests, and the denial of rights, 
which drove a freedom-loving race from Europe to these 
shores, tlie same continue to operate to the present ■ i\\ . This 
is all to our gain; for they who escape from the dungeons of 
tyranny there, will here be zealous to support the noble edifice 
of liberty ; while the private welfare of each man, fairly pur- 
sued, forms the benefit of all, and constitutes the public good. 

* The principles of liberty which are embodied in our frame 
of government and in our laws, branch out likewise through 
every department of society, mould our manners, and deter- 
mine the character even of our domestic relations. They 
have the effect of producing, generally, in the deportment of 
individuals, who know neither superiors nor inferiors, a cer- 
tain degree of ease and dignity, that is equally removed from 
serviUty and arrogance. It is one of the practical results of 
those principles, that the poorer classes in this community are 
more civiUzed, more polite and friendly, though not so sub- 
missive, as persons of the same fortunes ia Europe. They 
are also usually followed by impartial justice in the equal dis- 
tribution of family property. Hence opulence is rarely seen 
to accumulate in one branch, while others languish in genteel 
beggarv. As there is no where an aristocratic establishment, 
the amplitude of the community is never broken up into little 
compartments, envious and contemptuous of each other. — 
Every man's range of occupation is extended, while every 
state is held worthy of respect. Honest industry no where 
derogates, but the facility of providing for a family is every 
where enlarged. 

' Nothing is more worthy of regard than the contrast be- 
tween the general demeanour of Europeans living here, and 
what is alleged of the same people, and others similar to them, 
whilst under the yoke of transatlantic governments. In New 
York city alone are supposed to be not less than twelve thou- 
sand Irish, and the number of all other foreigners may proba- 
bly be as many. The other great cities of the United States 
have an equal proportion according to their population ; and 
emigrants from the old world are settled, and in progress of 

3 Q 



490 VIEW OF THE 

settlement, every where throughout the Union ; yet here they 
are never accused of sedition, or rebellion, or conspiracy 
against the government. They are never disarmed by a mili- 
tary force ; and no magistrate trembles when they provide 
themselves with amnumition. They are, indeed, the most 
strenuous supporters of the government; and it is evident 
that a country may exist in the utmost good order, peace, and 
prosperity, under such a system of law as they are willing to 
maintain with their lives. It is manifest, therefore, that if the 
laws were in Europe what they are here, Europe need not 
drive her children into exile. The same men who are called 
rebels there, are esteemed and tranquil citizens here, without 
having changed their nature or their sentiments. But here 
the law is made by the majority for the good of the great 
numWer ; and for this reason it is essentially equal and impar- 
tial. It prohibits nothing but what is in itself morally wrong. 
Hence, there are fewer laws, and fewer transgressions; but 
when a real transgression happens, an offended community is 
always prompt to support the law ; for it then vindicates its 
own decision, and its own safety. 

* You then, who left the abject conditiofi of European sub- 
jects; who will never encounter the persecution of kings, 
lords, or hierarchies ; who are now beyond the fantastic ty- 
ranny of those govermnents that exterminate catholics in one 
country, and connive at the massacre of protestants in another ; 
what more is requisite to engage your love and veneration of 
the free constitution of America, than to remember what yon 
were, what you have witnessed, what you have suffered, and 
to i-eflect on what you are about to become, and the blessings 
you have it in your power to enjoy ?* 

Such is the representation made by this Irish society as an 
encouragement for their countrymen to emigrate. By the 
tenor of the foregoing pages, it will be understood tliat we 
consider the United States as the best country in the world 
for a poor labouring man ; though the ardent and enlightened 
lover of freedom must not expect to find that pure and disin- 
terested patriotism, in men holding official situations, which he 
may have expected. 



UNITED STATES. 491 

In tlie account given of the different states, the various 
plans of government which tliey have adopted are noticed. 
* In most of the state-governments,' says Mr. Cobbett, ' the 
election is annual for the Jiouse of representatives. In some, 
the governor and the senate are elected for a longer period, 
not exceeding four years in any case. }3ut, in some, the 
■whole, governor, senate, and representatives, are elected AN- 
NUALLY ; and this last appears now to be the prevailing 
taste. The suffrage, or qualifications of electors, is very va- 
rious. In some states every free man, that is, every man who 
is not bondman or slave, has a vote. In others, the payment 
of a tax is required. In others, a man must be worth a hun- 
dred pounds. In Virginia a man must be a freeholder. 

' In Virginia, and the states where negro slavery exists, the 
slaves are reckoned amongst the population in apportioning 
the seats in the general congress. So that, the slaves do not 
vote ; but their owners have votes for them. ***** 
The right of suffrage in America is, however, upon the whole, 
sufficient to guard the people against any general and long- 
existing abuse of power; for, let it be borne in mind, that 
here the people elect all the persons who are to exercise 
power ; while, even if our Reform were obtained, there would 
1 still be two branches out of the three, over whom the people 
1 would have no direct controul. Besides, in England, Ireland, 
j and Scotland, there is an established church ; a richly endow- 
ed and powerful hierarchy ; and this, which is really a fourth 
1 branch of the government, has nothing to resemble it in Ame- 
j rica. So that, in this country, the whole of the government 
' may be truly said to be in the hands of the people. The 

people are, in reality as well as in name, represented. 

I ■ * The consequences of this are, 1st, That, if those who are 

chosen do not behave well, they are not chosen a second time. 

' 2d, That there are no sinecure placemen and place women, 

I grantees, pensioners without services, and big placemen who 

j swallow the earnings of two or three thousand men each. 3d, 

That there is no military staff to devour more than the whole 

of a government ought to cost. 4th, That there are no proud 

I and insolent grasping borough-mongers, who make the people 



492 VIEW OF THE 

toil and svi'eat to keep them and their families in luxury. 5th, 
That seats in the congress are not like stalls in Smithfield, 
bought and sold, or hired out. 6th, That the members ttf 
congress do not sell their votes at so much a vote. 7th, That 
there is no waste of the public money, and no expences occa- 
sioned by the bribing of electors, or by the hiring of spies and 
informers. 8th, That there are no shootings of the people, 
and no legal murders committed, in order to defend the go- 
vernment against the just vengeance of an oppressed and in- 
sulted nation ; but all is harmony, peace, and prosperity. 
Every man is zealous in defence of the laws, because every 
man knows that he is governed by laws, to which he has really 
and truly given his assent.' 

The same writer afterwards obsei'ves, *But it is not the 
name of republic that secures these, or any other of the bless- 
ings of freeriom. As gross acts of tyranny may be committed, 
and as base corruption practised, under that name as under 
the name of absolute monarchy. And it becomes the people 
of America to guard their minds against ever being, in any 
case, amused with names. It is the fair representation of the 
people that is the cause of all the good ; and, if this, be ob- 
tained, I, for my part, will never quarrel with any body about 
names."" 

He continues, ' On the subject of taxes and priests, I will 
address myself more immediately to my old neighbours at 
Botley, and endeavour to make them understand what Ame- 
rica is as to taxes and priests. Worried, my old neighbours, 
as you are by tax-gatherers of all descriptions, from the coun- 
ty-collector, who rides in his coach and four, down to the 
petty window-peeper, the little miserable spy, who is con- 
stantly on the look-out for you, as if he were a thief-catcher and 
you were thieves ; devoured as you are by these vermin, big 
and little, you will with difficulty form an idea of the state of 
America in this respect. It is a state of such blessedness, 
when compared with the state of things in England, that I 
despair of being able to make you fully comprehend what it 
is. Here a man may make new windows, or shut up old win- 
dows, as often as he pleases, without being compelled under a 



UNITED STATES. 493 

penalty to give notice to some insolent tax-gathering spy. 
Here he may keep as many horses as he likes, he may ride 
them or drive them at his pleasure, he may sell them or keep 
them, he may lend them or breed from them ; he may, as far 
as their nature allows, do the same with regard to his dogs ; 
he may employ liis servants in his h.ouse, in his stables, in his 
garden, or in his fields, just as he pleases; he may, if he be 
foolish enough, have armorial hearings on his carriage, his 
watch-seals, on his plate, and, if he likes, on his very buckets 
and porridge pots; he may write his receipts, his bills, his 
leases, his bonds, and deeds upon unstamped paper; his wife 
and daughters may wear French gloves and lace, and French 
and India silks ; he may purchase or sell lands, and may sue 
at law for his rights: and all these, and a hundred other 
things, without any dread of the interloping and insolent in- 
terference of a tax-gatherer or spy of any description. Lastly, 
when he dies, he can bequeath his money and goods and 
houses and lands to whomsoever he pleases; and he can close 
his eyes without curses in his heart against a rapacious band 
of placemen, pensioners, grantees, sinecure holders, staff-offi- 
cers, borough-jobbers, and blood-money spies, who stand 
ready to take from his friends, his relations, his widow, and 
his children, a large part of what he leaves, under the name 
of a tax upon legacies. 

* But you will ask, " Are there no taxes in America .^" Yes ; 
and taxes, or public contributions of some sort, there must be in 
every civilised state; otherwise government could not exist, and 
without government there could be no security for property or 
persons. The taxes in America consist principally of custom 
duties imposed on goods imported into the country. During 
the late war, there were taxes on several things in the coun- 
try ; but they were taken off' at the peace. In the cities and 
large towns, where paving and lamps and drains and scaven- 
gers are necessary, there are, of course, direct contributions to 
defray the expence of these. There are also, of course, county 
rates and road rates. But as the money thus raised is em- 
ployed for the immediate benefit of those who pay, and is ex- 
pended amongst themselves and under their own immediate 



494 VIEW OF THE 

inspection, it does not partake of the nature of a tax. The 
taxes or duties on goods imported yield a great sum of money ; 
and, owing to the persons employed in the collection being 
appointed for their integrity and ability, and not on account 
of their connection with any set of bribing and corrupt bo- 
rough-mongers, the whole of the money thus collected is fairly 
applied to the public use, and is amply sufficient for all the 
purposes of government. The army, if it can be so called, 
costs but a mere trifle. It consists of a few men, who are ab- 
solutely necessary to keep forts from crumbling down, and 
guns from rotting with rust. The navy is an object of care, 
and its support and increase a cause of considerable expence. 
But the government, relying on the good sense and valoUr 
of a people, who must hate or disregard themselves before 
they can hate or disregard that which so manifestly promotes 
their own happiness, has no need to expend much on any spe- 
cies of warlike preparations. Th.e government could not stand 
a week if it were hated by the people ; nor, indeed, ought it 
to stand an hour. It has the hearts of the people with it, and 
therefore it need expend nothing in blood-money, or in secret 
services of any kind. Henoe the cheapness of this govern- 
ment; hence the small amount of the taxes; hence the ease 
and happiness of the people.' 

VI. THE PEOSPECTS OF VARIOUS CLASSES OF EMIGRANTS. 

We have, In the preceding sections, endeavoured to give a 
general idea of the circumstances respecting which emigrants 
must feel the greatest anxiety ; and will now proceed to detail 
the advantages and disadvantages that may attend different 
classes of emigrants, such as gentlemen, farmers, merchants 
and manufacturers, mechanics, labourers, artists, &c. 

1. Gentlemen. 

America is not the country of gentlemen. Perhaps another 
fentury will elapse before this class of society becomes nume- 
rous. Here every one is employed in some business, or in 
superintending some improvement. Yet a? some, possessed 



UNITED STATES. 495 

of a competency, may in these eventful times wish to emigrate, 
and secure their property and their safety in the United 
States, we will here notice the advantages which they may 
expect to enjoy. As these are in a great measure proportioned 
to the expences of house-keeping, it will be necessary to enter 
into this subject more in detail. 

Mr. Fearon recommends to the man of small property, who 
intends living upon the interest, and wants to remove to a 
cheaper country than England, to pause before the object of 
his choice be America. This writer has given the following 

statement of Mr. H ""s (an English emigrant) expences for 

six months, ending the 1st of March, 1818; but which does 
not appear to be very extravagant : — 

' This family consists of thirteen : Mr. H , Mrs H , 

three Misses H sixteen years of age and upwards, two 

ditto younger, four boys four to twelve years of age, one wo- 
man servant, one girl. 

' They occupy the whole (store excepted) of an excellent 
house in Market-street, Fhiladelpliia ; in it there are 13 rooms, 
kitchen included, and three cellai;s. The rent is 500 dollars 
per annum. The following account is for the first six months 
of their residence in the United States. It includes rent, and 
what little clothes the females may have found necessary to 
purchase, in consequence of the difference of American fa- 
shions ; also about 100 dollars for travelling expences. Their 
style of living is extremely plain, respectable, and economical. 

1817, Dollars. Cents. 

' Sept. 1st to 8th. One week's board and lodg- 
ing at a boarding house 

Sept. 8th. Wood for firing 

Wine and spirits - _ - - 

Other expences - - - - 

Wood (firing) > . _ - 

Other, expences - - - - . 

Wood (firing) . - - , 

Shoes ------ 

Other expences . - - - - 

Schooling (for two boys) 



80 





19 


76 


9 


50 


199 


f} 


21 


18 


li9 


2 


39 


39 


25 


50 


221 


36 


15 


65 



496 VIEW OF THE 



Wine and spirits 
Aurora newspaper 
Schooling (eldest boy) 
Wood (firing) 
Ditto ditto 
Other expen'ces 
Schooling (for two boys) 



Dollars. 


Cents 


15 





5 





21 


50 


50 





39 


50 


388 


37 


12 


0. 



Total, 1st Sept, 1817; to March, 1818 1313 79 



'This account does not include the expenditure for house- 
hold furniture: they have paid for Scotch carpeting, yard 
wide, (commonest qualities) 170 cents per yard ; stair carpet- 
ing, narrow, strong, and common, of domestic manufacture, 
100 cents per yard ; oil-cloth, yard wide, 175 cents per yard ; 
Windsor chair, 216 cents each ; fancy rush bottoms, light and 
genteel, 375 cents each.' 

But the celebrated Cobbett enters into this subject with his 
usual precision and boldness ; and which we will beg leave to 
offer in his own strong and impressive language. 

' In the great cities and towns,"" says he, ' house rent is very 
high-priced ; but then nobody but mad people live there ex- 
cept they have business there, and then they are paid back, 
their rent in the profits of that business. This is so plain a 
matter, that no argument is necessary. It is unnecessary to. 
speak about the expences of a farm-house ; because the farmer 
eats, and very frequently wears, his own produce. If these 
be high-priced, so is that part which he sells. Thus both 
ends meet with him. 

* I am, therefore, supposing the case of a man, who follows 
no business, and who lives upon what he has got. In Eng- 
land he cannot eat and drink and wear the interest of his mo- 
ney ; for the borough-mongers have pawned half his income, 
and they will have it or his blood. He wishes to escape from 
this alternative. -He wishes to keep his blood, and enjoy his 
money too. He would come to America; but he does not 
know whether prices here will not make up for the robbery of 



UNITED STATES. 497 

the borough-villains ; and he wisiies to know too wliat sort of 
society he is going into. 

* The price of house-rent and fuel is, when at more than 
three miles from New York, as low as it is at the same dis- 
tance from any great city or town in England. The price of 
wheaten bread is a third lower than 'it is in any part of Eng- 
land. The price of beef, mutton, lamb, veal, small pork, 
hoo-meat, poultry, is one-half the London price ; the first as 
o-ood, the two next very nearly as good, and all the rest far, 
very far, better than in London. The sheep and lambs that 
I now kill for my house are as fat as any that I ever saw in 
all my life; and they have been running in wild ground, 
wholly uncultivated for many years, all the summer. A 
lamb, killed the week before last, weighing in the whole thir- 
ty-eight pounds, had five pounds of loose fat and three pounds 
and ten ounces of suet. We cut a pound of solid fat from 
each breast ; and after that it was too fat to be pleasant to eat. 
My flock being small, forty, or thereabouts, of some neigh- 
bours joined them; and they have all got fat together. I 
have missed the interlopers lately : I suppose the " Yorkers'" 
have eaten them up by this time. What they have fattened 
on except brambles and cedars, I am sure I do not know. If 
any Englishman should be afraid that he will find no roast 
beef here, it may be sufficient to tell him, that an ox was 
killed, last winter, at Philadelphia, the quarters of which 
weighed tzoo thousand^ tzco hundred, mid some odd pounds, 
and he was sold to the butch kh for ofie thousand three hun- 
dred dollars. This is proof enough of the spirit of enterprise, 
and of the disposition in the public to encourage it. I believe 
this to have been the fattest ox that ever was killed in the 
world. Three times as much njoney, or perhaps len times as 
much, might have been made if the ox had been shewn for 
money. But this the owner would not permit; and he sold 
the ox in that condition. I need hardly say that the owner 
was a quaker, New Jersey had the honour of pr<Klucing this 
ox, and the owner's name was Job- Tyler. 

' That there must be good bread in America is pretty evi- 
dent from the well known fact, that hundreds of thousands of 

3 K 



498 VIEW OF THL 

barrels of flour are, most years sent to England, finer than 
any that England can produce. And having now provided 
the two principal articles, I will suppose, as a matter of course, 
that a gentleman will have a garden, an orchard, and a cow or 
two ; but if he should be able (no easy matter) to find a gen- 
teel country-house without these conveniences, he may buy 
butter, cheaper, and upon an average better, than in England. 
The garden stuff, if he send to New York for it, lie must buy 
pretty dear; and, faith, he ought to buy it dear, if he will 
not have some planted and preserved. 

' Cheese, of the North river produce, I have bought as good 
of Mr. Stickler of New York as I ever tasted in all my life; 
and, indeed, no better cheese need be wished for tiian what is 
now made in this country. The average price is Id. a pound 
(English money), which is much lower than even middling 
cheese is in England. Perhaps, generally speaking, the 
cheese here is not so good as the better kinds in England ; 
but there is none here so poor as the poorest in England, 
tnc'eed the people would not eat it, which is the best security 
against its being made. Mind, I state distinctly, that as good 
cheese as I ever tasted, it not the best, was of American pro- 
duce. I know the article well. Bread and cheese dinners 
bave been the dinners of a good fourth of mv life I know 
the Cheshire, Gloucester, Wiltshire, Stilton, and the Parme- 
san ; and I never tasted better than Ameiican cheese, bought 
of Mr. Stickler, in Broad-street, New York, And this cheese 
Mr. Stickier informs me is nothing uncommon in the county 
of Cheshire ia Massachusetts; he knows at least a hundred 
persons himself that make it equally good. And indeed why 
should it not be thus in a country where the pasture is so 
rich ; where the sun warms every thing into sweetness ; where 
the cattle eat the grass close under the shade of the thickest 
trees, which we know they will not do in England. Take 
any fruit which has grown in the shade in England, atid you 
will find that it has not half the sweetness in it that there is in 
fruit of the same bulk grown in the sun. But here the sun 
sends his heat down through all the boughs and leaves. The 
manufacturing of cheese is not yet generally brought, in this 



UNITED STATES. 4^9 

country, to the English perfection ; but here- are all the mate- 
rials, and the rest will soon follow, 

' Groceries, as they are called, are, upon an average, at far 
less than half the English pnce. Tea, sugar, coffee, spices, 
chocolate, cocoa', salt, sweet oil, all free of the borough-mon- 
gers' taxes and their pawn, are so cheap as to be within the 
reach of every one. Chocolate, which is a treat to the rich in 
England, is here used even by the negroes. Sweet oil, rai.sins, 
currants, all the things from the Levant, are at a fourth or 
fifth of the English price. The English people, who pay 
enormously to keep possession of the East and West Indies, 
purchase the produce even of the English possessions at a 
price double of that wliich the Americans give for that very 
produce ! What a hellish oppression must that people live 
under ! Candles and soap (quality for quality) are half the 
English price. Wax candles (beautiful) are at a third of the 
English price. It is no very great piece of extravagance to 
bum wax candles constantly here ; and it is frequently done 
by genteel people who do not make their own candles. 

' Fish I have not mentioned, because h'sh is not every where 
to be had in abundance. But any where near the coast it is ; 
and it is so cheap, that one wonders how it can be brought to 
market for the money. Fine black-rock, as good, at least, ag 
cod-fish, I have seen sold, and in cold weather too, at an 
English farthing a pound. They now bring us fine fish round 
the country to our doors, at an English three-pence a pound. 
I believe they count fifty or sixty sorts of fish in New York 
market as the average. Oysters, other shell-fish, called dams. 
In short, the variety and abundance are such that I cannot 
describe them. 

' An idea of the state of plenty may be formed from these 
facts: nobody but the free negroes who have families ever 
think of eating a sheep''s head and pluck. It is seldom that 
oxen's heads are used at home, or sold, and never in the coun- 
try. In the course of the year, hundreds of calves' heads, 
large bits and whole joints of meat, are left on the shambles at 
New York, for any body to take away that will. They ge- 
nerally fall to the share of the street hogs, a thousand or two 



500 VIEW OF THE 

of which are constantly fatting in New York on the meat and 
fish flung out of the houses. I shall be told, that it is only in 
hot weather that the shambles are left thus garnished. Very 
true; but are the shambles of any other country thus gar- 
nished in hot weather ? Oh, no ! If it were not for the 
superabundance, all the food would be sold at some price or 
other. 

'After bread, flesh, fish, fowl, butter, cheese, and groceries, 
comes fruit. Apples, pears, cherries, peaches, at a tenth part 
of the English price. The other day I met a man going to 
market with a waggon load of winter pears. He had high 
boards on the sides of the waggon, and his waggon held about 
40 or 50 bushels. I have bought very good apples this year 
for four-pence halfpenny (English) a bushel, to boil for httle 
pigs. Besides these, strawberries grow wild in abundance; 
but no one will take the trouble to get them. Huckle-berries 
in the woods in great abundance, chesnuts all over the coun- 
try. Four-pence halfpenny (English) a quart for these latter 
Cranberries, the finest fruit for tarts that ever grew, are 
bought for about a dollar a bushel ; and they will keep, flung 
down in the corner of a room, for five months in the year. 
As a sauce to venison or mutton, they are as good as currant 
jelly. Pine apples in abundance, for several months in the 
year, at an average of an English shilhng each Melons at 
an average of ah English eight-pence. In short, what is there 
not in the way of fruit.? All excellent of their kinds, and all 
for a mere trifle compared to what they cost in England. 

* I am afraid to speak of drink, lest I should be supposed 
to countenance the common use of it. But protesting most 
decidedly against this conclusion, I proceed to inform those 
who are not content with the cow for vintner and brewer, that 
all the materials for making people drunk, or muddle-headed, 
are much cheaper here than in England. Beer, good ale, I 
mean, a great deal better than the common public-house beer 
in England; in short, good, strong, clear ale is, at New York, 
eight dollars a barrel ; that is, about fourteen English pence 
a gallon. Brew yourself, in the country, and it is about seven 
Knglish pence a gallon ; that is to say, less than two-pence a 



UNITED STATES. 501 

quart. No borough-mongers"' tax on malt, hops, or beer ! 
Portugal wine is about half the price that it is in England. 
French wine a sixth part of the English price. Brandy and 
rum about the same in proportion ; and the common spirits of 
the country are about three shillings and six-pence (English) 
a gallon. Come on, then, if you love toping; for here you 
may drink, yourselves blind at the price of six-pence. 

' Wearing apparel comes chiefly from England, and all the 
materials of dress are as cheap as they are there ; for, though 
there is a duty laid on the importation, the absence of taxe*, 
and the cheap food and drink, enable the retailer to sell as low 
here as there. Shoes are cheaper than in England ; for, 
though shoe-makers are well paid for their labour, there is no 
borouoh-villain to tax the leather. All the India and French 
goods are at half the English price. Here no ruffian can 
seize you by the throat and tear off your suspected handker- 
chief. Here Signor Waithman, or any Ixidy in that line, 
might have sold French gloves and shawls without being- 
tempted to quit the field of politics as a compromise with the 
government ; and without any breach of covenants, after being 
suffered to escape with only a gentle squeeze. 

' Household furniture, all cheaper than in England. Ma- 
hogany timber a third part of the English price. The dis- 
tance shorter to bring it, and the tax next to nothing on 
importation. The woods here, the pine, the ash, the white- 
oak, the walnut, the tulip-tree, and many others all excellent. 
The workman paid high wages, but no tax. No borough- 
villains to share in the amount of the price. 

' Horses, carriages, harness, all as good, as gay, and cheaper 
than in England. I hardly ever saw a 7'ip in this country. 
The hackney coach horses and the coaches themselves, at 
New York, bear no resemblance to things of the same name 
in London. The former are all good, sound, clean, and 
handsome. What the latter are I need describe in no other 
way than to say, that the coaches seem fit for nothing but the 
fire and the horses for the dogs. 

' Domestic ^ervants ! This is a weighty article : not in the 
cost, however, so much as in the plague. A good man ser- 



502 VIEW OF THE 

vant is worth thirty pounds sterhng a year ; and a good wo- 
man servant, twenty pounds sterling a year. But this is not 
all ; for, in the first place, they will hire only by the month. 
This is what they, in fact, do in England ; for there they can 
quit at a month's warning. The man will not wear a hvery, 
any more than he will wear a halter round his neck. This is 
no great matter ; for as your neighbour's men are of the same 
taste, you expose yourself to no humiliation on this score. 
Neither men nor women will allow you to call them servants, 
and they will take especial cai'e not to call themselves by that 
name. This seems something very capricious, at the least; 
and as people in such situations of life really are servants, ac- 
cording to even the sense which Moses gives to the word, 
when he forbids the working of the man servant and the maid 
servant, the objection, the rooted aver.sion, to the name, seems 
to bespeak a mixture of false pride and of insolence, neither of 
which belong to the American character, even in the lowest 
walks of life. I will, therefore, explain the cause of this dis- 
like4o the name of servant. When this country was first set- 
tled, there were no people that laboured for other people; 
but as man is always trying to throw the working part ofP his 
own shoulders, as we see by the couduct of priests in all ages, 
negi'oes were soon introduced. Englishmen, who had fled 
from tyranny at home, were naturally shy of calling other 
men their slaves; and therefore, "for more grace," as Master 
Matthew says in the play, they called their slaves servants. 
But though I doubt not that this device was quite efficient in 
quieting their own consciences, it gave rise to the notion, that 
slave and servant meant one and the same thing, a conclusion 
perfectly natural and directly deducible from the premises. 
Hence every free man and woman have rejected with just dis- 
dain the appellation of servant. One would think, however, 
that they might be reconciled to it by the conduct of some of 
their supei*iors in life, who, without the smallest apparent re- 
luctance, call themselves " Public Servants," in imitation, I 
suppose, of English ministers, and his holiness the pope, who, 
in the excess of his humility, calls himself, '" the Servant of 
the Servants of the Lord." But perhaps the American do- 



UNITED STATES. oOii 

mestics have observed that " Public Servant" really means 
master. Be the aiuse what it may, however, they continue 
most obstinately to scout the name of servant; and though 
they still keep a civil tongue in their head, there is not one of 
them that uill not resent the affront with more bitterness than 
any other that you could offer. The man, therefore, who 
would deliberately offer such an affront must be a fool. But 
there is an inconvenience far greater than this. People in ge- 
neral are so comfortably situated, that very few, and then only 
of those who are pushed hard, will become domestics to any 
body. So that, generally speaking, domestics of both s(§xes 
are far from good. They are honest ; but they are not obe- 
dient. Thev are careless. Wanting frequently in the greater 
part of those qualities, which make their services conducive to 
the neatness of houses and comfort of families. What a dif- 
ference would it make in this country, if it could be supplied 
with nice, clean, dutiful English maid servants ! As to the 
men, it does not much signify ; but for the want of the maids, 
nothing but the absence of grinding taxation can compensate. 
As to bringing them uith you, it is as wild a project as it would 
be to ti'v to carry the sun-beams to England. They will 
begin to change before the ship gets on soundings ; and before 
they have been here a month, you must turn them out of 
doors, or they will you. If, by any chance, you find them 
here, it may do; but bring them out and keep them you can- 
not. The best way is to put on your philosophy ; never to 
look at this evil without, at the same time, looking at the 
many good things that you find hei-e. Make the best selec- 
tion you can. Give gowl wages, not too much work, and re- 
solve, at all events, to treat them with civility. 

' However, what is this plague compared with that of the 
tax gatherer ? What is this plague compared with the con- 
stant sight of beggars and paupers, and the constant dread of 
becoming a pauper or beggar yourself.'^ If your commands 
are not obeyed with such alacrity as in England, you have, at 
any rate, nobody to command you. You are not ordered to 
*' stand and deliver" twenty or thirty times in the year by tbye 
insolent agent of borough-mongers. No one comes to forbid 



504 VIEW OF THE 

you to open or shut up a window. No insolent set of commis- 
sioners send their order for you to dance attendance on them, 
to sheii'' cause why they should not double-tax you ; and when 
you have shewn cause, even on your oath, make you pay the 
tax, laugh in your face, and leave you an appeal from them- 
selves to another set, deriving their authority from the same 
source, and having a sin)ilar interest in oppressing you, and 
thus laying your })roperty j)rostrate beneath the hoof of an in- 
solent and remorseless tyranny. Free, wholly free, from this 
tantalizing, this grinding, this odious curse, what need you 
care about the petty plagues of domestic servants .? 

' However, as there are some men and some women, who 
can never be at heart's ease unless they have the power of do- 
mineering over somebody or other, and who will rather be 
slaves themselves than not have it in their power to treat 
others as slaves, it becomes a man of fortune, proposing to 
emigrate to America, to consider soberly whether he or his 
wife be of this taste ; and if the result of his considerations be 
in the affirmative, his best way will be to continue to live un- 
der the borough- mongers, or, which I would rather recom- 
mend, hang himself at once."* 

2. Farmers. 

The next class of emigrants which we will notice comprises 
all those who may devote their attention to agriculture. Many 
Europeans, possessed of a small capital, commence farming 
upon their arrival in America, although they have been accus- 
tomed to some other employment, and consequently cannot be 
supposed to be ver}^ expert in their new occuj)ation. If such 
experience much difficulty in the commencement, they ought 
to recollect that this would also, in some degree, be the case 
even in their own country. 

The emigrant who goes to Amei'ica with the intention of 
applying himself to farming, should take with him some seed 
wheat of the best kinds ; and if he can procure it, perhaps the 
Syrian wheat (Triticuvi compos'itam ) might be worth a trial. 
It has a much better chance of answering in America than in 
England, and particularly south of 40 degrees of latitude. 



UNITED STATES. 505 

Also a small quantity of lucerne, saintfoin, and vetches; either 
the seeds or the roots of" the two former, but the roots would 
be preferable. It might also he advisable to take a small bag 
of hay seeds from some of the best meadows. Farming im- 
plements can be had in any part of the United States, well 
adapted to tlic different purposes for which they are wanted. 
In determining a situation, he has the choice of any climate, 
from latitude 29 to 44 degrees, comprehending the regions 
suitable for the culture of sugar, cotton, and grain. If his 
views are governed by the determination to adopt any particu- 
lar culture, he will of course settle in the region suitable : if 
sugar, he will go south of 31^ deg. ; if cotton, south of 36 
deo'. ; for corn, the most agreeable is from 36 deo-. fo 41 deg., 
as further north the severity and length of the winters render 
the climate less desirable. A farmer, on settling in America, 
ought not rashly to set up his opinions or former practices 
against those of the old settlers. Many things, which may 
appear to him at first to be wrong or unnecessary, will be 
found, on farther experience, both right and expedient ; but 
if he cultivates the good-will of his neighbours, and follows 
their advice, he will not go wrong. He will soon find the . 
succession of crops and the mode of culture vary much from 
what he has experienced in England ; and that a differently 
modified climate, and a sun more nearly vertical, greatly 
change the order of the thinos to which he has been accus- 
tomed. He will find his rye harvest to commence in June, 
and that pf his wheat soon after ; the cats follow next ; and 
afterwards, if he have a meadow, his grass will be ready for 
the scythe ; then come his potatoes, and lastly his Indian 
corn. If the emigrant purchases and settles upon what is 
called wild land, one of his first cares -ought to be to plant a 
peach and apple orchard ; and he ought to plant the two sorts 
alternate, say one peach betwixt two apple trees, and not plant 
the apple trees less than 30 feet asunder. The peach tree 
soon comes to maturity, and is short lived : they will become 
of iit*^^le value by the time the apple trees are in want of room. 
In the woody region, the axe is for some time the chief im- 
plement in tke hands of the settler, and he feels a considerable 
22 3 S 



506 VIEW OF THE 

degree of repugnance at the destruction of so much fine tim- 
ber ; but this soon subsides. If he has courage to proceed as 
far west as the Illinois, the North-west territories, or to the 
west of the ]\Iississippi, the prairies afford him the means of 
settling without much trouble. 

In the early part of the settlement of the rich countries be- 
yond the Alleghanies, agues were very prevalent ; and it will 
perhaps be found, that all countries in a state of nature are 
liable to this disease in the proportion of their fertility, which 
has a tendency to produce it, from the vast quantity of vege- 
table matter which goes to decay in autumn. As this applies 
generally in those regions, the new settler, has no means of 
avoiding the consequence, but by precautions and preventives; 
but as it has also a local influence, he may, by a judicious 
choice of a situation, i*ender himself and family less liable to 
its attacks. As the first settlers have the choice of the whole 
country, it is very natural that they should adopt the alluvial 
of the rivers, both on account of the superior fertility of the 
soil, and the facilities it gives to the transportation of produce : 
and many, in so doing, sacrifice their health to their apparent 
interest. It must be admitted, that some of the valleys in 
wdiich the rivers flow are as healthy as the uplands ; but this 
depends on whether the river overflows its banks or not, or on 
the existence or non-existence of stagnant water in the neigh- 
bourhood. As to precautions, the emigrant is apprised that 
in these countries the dews are very copious, and begin to fall 
even before sunset. Let him avoid, as much as possible, ex- 
posure either to this or rain ; or if unavoidably exposed, he 
must take off his wet clothes as soon as possible ; and if he 
has flannel shirts, in order to change after copious pei'spiration, 
he will find benefit in them. An important consideration in 
this respect is the quality of the water used in his family : of 
course the purer this is the better. The settler cannot be ex- 
pected U) be capable of analysing it ; but he may discover the 
presence of sulphur, iron, an acid, or an alkali, by tests always 
in his power to procure. Sulphur may be detected by laying 
a piece of bright silver in the water, which turns black if that 
substance is held in solution, A little of the inoer bark of 



UNITED STATES. 507 

any of tlie oaks, infused in a' olassful, turns the water black, 
if iron is present. Paper, stained blue by the petals of almost 
any flower of that colour bein": rubljcd upon it, turns green 
by being dipped in water impregnated with alkali ; or red, if 
an acid. 

The settler who is accustomed to malt liquor may, with very 
little trouble, bi'ew his own ale. Barley is cultivated west of 
the Alleghanics , and hops grow wild in abundance. The use 
of this beverage is supposed to be a preventive to the ague. 
Almost every family has a supposed cure for this complaint ; 
and every out who visits or sees those affected has a favourite 
remedy, all differing from each other; but the physicians, in 
the Western country, treat it with bark and laudanum : of 
these the emigrant ought to lay in a sufficiency to administer 
to his family in case of need. 

It has already been observed, that the emigrants to this 
country are almost of every nation in Europe; but it is a re- 
markable and striking fact, that the Germans, Dutch, and 
Swiss, succeed much better than those from any other country. 
This is not so much owing to greater industry or economy, as 
to the more judicious mode they adopt in settling. In gene- 
ral, before these people emigrate, they form associations, lay 
<lown their plans, and send an agent over in whom they can 
confide. He purchases for them a suitable extent of land, 
and prepares the way : when their arrangements are made, 
they move over in one body. This system has always been 
followed by these people, and the consequences are visible in 
almost every part of the United States; but more particularly 
in the states of New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, in 
all parts of which they are in possession of the best lands. 
The appearance of comfort, ease, and independence, exhibited 
by one of these little colonies, is so visible, that the traveller 
who does not perceive it at first sight must be very deficient 
in discernment. Some of the colonies of this kind, besides the 
tie of common interest, have another bond of union, which is 
a similarity of sentiment and belief in their religious opinions ; 
this, in some instances, has operated as a cause for regulating 
their system of colonization : but perhaps that which has most 



508 VIEW OF THE 

generally influenced them is the circumstance of their language 
not being the general language of the United States, — an in- 
convenience much less felt by a colony than by an isolated 
family. But let the cause be what it may, the effect is very 
manifest, and may be easily accounted for. In the early set- 
tlement of any particular district of nezo country^ its progress 
in improvements is slow, until a grist and saw-mill are erected ; 
after which the change is very rapid. Every planter in the 
vicinity, by the aid of the saw-mill, is able to erect a handsome 
frame-house. The grist-mill enables him to convert his wheat 
into flour fit for a market, and lie boldly engages and employs 
hands to assist him in converting forest into fields, yielding 
luxuriant crops. These two kind of mills are the most neces- 
sary objects in a new colony ; but there are many others, such 
as roads, bridges, &c. all of which are much sooner effected by 
a colony having an union of interest, and of course an union 
of action, 

Mr. Birkbeck, in his letters from the Illinois, says, ' I am 
fully convinced, that those who are not screwed up to the full 
pitch of enterprise had better remain in Old England, than 
attempt agriculture, or business of any kind (manual operations 
excepted) in the Atlantic States. Emigrants from Europe are 
too apt to linger in the eastern cities, wasting their time, their 
money, and their resolution. They should push out westward 
without delay, where they can live cheaply until they fix 
themselves. Two dollars, saved in Pennsylvania, will pur- 
chase an acre of good land in the Illinois, The land carriage, 
from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, is from seven to ten dollars 
per cwt, (100 lb.) Clothing, razors, pocket-knives, pencils, 
mathematical instruments, and light articles in general, of con- 
stant usefulness, ought to be carried even at this expence; 
and books, which are sc;lj\e, and much wanted in the \vest. 
Good gun-locks are rare, and difficult to procure. No heavy 
implements will pay carriage. A pocket compass is indispen- 
sable for every stranger who ventures alone into the woods of 
America; and he should always carry the means of lighting a 
fire; for the traveller, when he starts in the morning on a 
wilderness journey, little knows where next he may lay his 



V 



UNITED STATES. 509 

head. Tow rubbed with gunpowder is good tinder. A few 
biscuits, a phial of spirits, a tomahawk, and a good blanket, 
are necessary articles. Overtaken by night, or bewildered, if 
thus provided, you will be really comfortable by your blazing 
fire ; when without them you would feel dismal and disconso- 
late. A dog is a pleasant and useful fellow-traveller in the 
back woods. You should make your fire with a fallen tree 
for a back log, and lie to leeward, with your feet towards it. 
The smoke flying over will preserve you from the damp air 
and musquitoes. Tie your horse with a long rein to the end 
of a bough, or to the top of a young hickory tree, which will 
allow him to graze or browse ; and change his position, if you 
awake in the night.' 

In a letter to a friend, this enterprising speculator says, 
' Make an effort, and extricate yourself and family completely, 
by removing into this country. If you can honourably make 
your escape, with the means of transmitting yourself hither, 
and 100/. sterling to spare, — don't hesitate. In six months 
after I shall have welcomed you, barring accidents, you shall 
discover that you have become r/c/i, for you shall feel that 
you are independent ; and I think that will be the most de- 
lightful sensation you ever experienced ; for you will receive 
it muhiplied as it were by the number of your family, as your 
troubles now are. It is not, however, a sort of independence 
that will excuse you from labour, or afford you many luxuries, 
that is, costly luxuries. I will state to you what I have learnt, 
from a good deal of observation and inquiry, and a little expe- 
rience; then you will form your own judgment. In the first 
place, the voyage — That will cost, to Baltimore or Philadel- 
phia, provided you take it, as no doubt you would, in the 
cheapest way, twelve guineas eacfi, for a birth, fire, and water, 
for yourself and wife, and half pi'ice or less for your children ; 
besides provisions, which you will furnish. Then the journey 
— Over the mountains to Pittsburo-, down the Ohio to Shaw- 
nee town, and from thence to our settlement, 50 miles north, 
will amount to five pounds sterling per head. If you arrive 
here as early as May, or even June, another five pounds per 
head will carry you on to that point, where you may take 



510 VIEW OF THE 

your leave of dependence on any thing earthly ])ut your own 
exertions. At this time I supj)ose you to have remainino- one 
hundred pounds (borrowed probably from English friends, 
who rely on youi* integrity, and avIio niay have directed the 
interest to be paid to me on their behalf, and the principal in 
due season. We will now, if you please, turn it into dollars, 
and consider how it may be disposed of. A hundred pounds 
sterling will go a great way in dollars. With 80 dollars you 
will " enter a quarter section of land f that is, you will pur- 
chase at the land-office 100 acres, and pav one-fourth of the 
purchase money, looking to the land to reward your pains 
with the means of discharging the other three-fourths as they 
become due, in two, three, and four years. You will build a 
house with 50 dollars, and you will find it extremely comfort- 
able aixl convenient, as it will be really and truly yours. Two 
horses will cost, with harness and plough, lOO. Cows, and 
hogs, and seed corn, and fencing, with other expences, will 
require the remaining 210 dollars. This beginning, humble 
as it appears, is affluence and splendour compared with tke 
original outfit of settlers in general. Yet no man remains in 
poverty, who possesses even moderate industry and economy, 
and especially of thne. You would of course bring with you 
your sea-bedding and store of blankets, for you will need them 
on the Ohio ; and you should leave England with a good stock 
of wearing apparel. Yoiu' luggage must be composed of light 
articles, on account of the costly land-carriage from the eastern 
port to Pittsburg, which will be from seven to ten dollars per 
100 lb. nearly six-pence sterling per pound. A few simple 
medicines of good quality are indispensable, such as calomel, 
bark in powder, castor oil, calcined magnesia, and laudanum : 
they may be of the greatest importance on the voyage and 
journey, as well as after your arrival. Change of climate and 
situation will produce temporary indisposition ; but with 
prompt and judicious treatment, which is happily of the most 
simple kind, the complaints to which new comers are Hable 
are seldom dangerous or difficult to overcome.'' 

In conformity to our foregoing remark, this writer remarks 
that emigrants with small capitals are liable to great inconve- 



UNITED STATES. 511 

nicnce, unless they have a particular situation provided for 
them by some })rccursor on whom they can depend. Money 
is powerful in this country in purchasinsi; land, but weak in 
providing the means of living, except as to the bare necessaries 
of life. Thus the travelling expences of emigrants are heavy, 
in addition to the waste of time in long peregrinations. 

Mr. Cobbett says, ' There are some, and even many, farm- 
ers, who do not work themselves in the lields. But they all 
attend to the thing, and are all ecjually civil to their working 
people. Tliey manage their affairs very judiciously. Little 
talking. Orders plainly given in few words, and in a decided 
tone. This is their only secret. 

' The cattle and implements used in husbandry are cheaper 
than in England ; that is to say, lower priced. The wear and 
tear not nearly half so much as upon a farm in England of the 
same size. The climate, the soil, the gentleness and docility 
of the horses and oxen, the lightness of the waggons and carts, 
the lightness and toughness of the wood of which husbandry 
implements are made, the simplicity ol' the harness, and, above 
all, the ingenuity and handiness of tlie workmen in repairing 
and in making shift ; all these make the implements a matter 
of very little note. Where horses are kept, the shoeing of 
them is the most serious kind of expence. 

* The first business of a farmer is, here, and ought to be 
every where, to live well : to live in ease and plenty ; to 
" keep hospitality," as the old English saying was. To save 
money is a secondary consideration ; but any English farmer, 
Avho is a good farmer there, may, if he will bring his industry 
and care with him, and be sure to leave his pride and insolence 
(if he have any) along with his anxiety, l)ehind him, live in 
ease and plenty here, and keep hospitality, and save a great 
parcel of money too. If he have the jack-daw taste ior heap- 
ing little round things together in a hole or chest, he may fol- 
low his taste. I have often thought of my good neighbour, 
John Gater, who, if he were here, with his pretty clipped 
hedges, his garden-looking fields, and his neat homesteads, 
would have visitors from far and near; and, while every one 
would admire and praise, no soul would envy him his posses- 



512 VIEW OF THE 

sions. Mr. Gater would soon liave all these thinss. The 
hedges only want planting ; and he would feel so comfortably 
to know that the Botley parson could never again poke his 
nose into his sheep-fold or his pig-stye. However, let me 
hope, rather, that the destruction of the borough-tyranny will 
soon make England a country fit for an honest and industrious 
man to live in. Let me hope that a relief from grinding taxa- 
tion will soon relieve men of their fears of dying in poverty, 
and will thereby restore to England the "hospitality" for 
which she was once famed, but which now really exists no 
where but in America.' 

Perhaps there are no modern publications that have made 
so deep an impression on the minds of British farmers than 
Birkbeck's ' Notes on a Journey in America,' and the ' Letters 
from the Illinois.' We have not made much use of the writ- 
ings of this gentleman, because we think they are calculated 
to deceive and decoy. ' You do indeed,' says a writer addressing 
Birkbeck, 'describe difficulties and hardships; but then you 
overcome them aU with so much ease and gaiety, that you 
make them disregarded by your English readers, who, sitting 
by their fire-sides, and feeling nothing but the gripe of the 
borough -mongers and the tax-gatherer, merely cast a glance 
at your hardships and fully participate in all your enthusiasm. 
You do. indeed fairly describe the rugged roads, the dirty 
hovels, the fire in the woods to sleep by, the pathless ways 
throu<)li the wildernesses, the danoerous crossings of the rivers ; 
but there are the beautiful meadows and rich lands at last ; 
there is the fine freehold domain at the end ! There are the 
giants and the enchanters to encounter; the slashings and rib- 
roastings to undergo ; but then there is at last the lovely lan- 
guishing damsel to repay the adventurer.' 

'The fact is,' says another writer on America, 'that by his 
(Birkbeck's) style and manner he has so captivated many of 
his readers (Americans excepted), that they begin to feel the 
conveniences and establishments of civilized life a sourse of 
misery, instead of an advantage. There is, moreover, some- 
thing very imposing in the circumstance, that a man of his 
talents and property should be perfectly satisfied with the 



UNITED STATES. 513 

change, notwithstanding all its attendant privations. This 
certainly lias its weight, but having once taken the step he has 
done, I would merely suggest (without pretending to enter 
very deeply into the recesses of the human m'md ) a few consi- 
derations, why any man, under his circumstances, would na- 
turally l(X)k with a very lenient eye upon all defects, and 
where even a mole-hill in the way of excellence existed, feel 
inclined to magnify it into a mountain. In leaving England 
he evidently turned his back upon it for ever. He was dis- 
gusted with the government, and hardly any extent of disap- 
pointment would probably induce him to place himself in the 
humiliating situation of returning. He has gone into the wil- 
derness — purchased a large quantity of land — has made his 
final election — has reasonable hopes of the speculation proving 
profitable — would not be disappointed with having neighbours 
natives of his oxvn country, and i;imilar to himself in property 
and in information — must desire that the value of his lands 
should adva::ce as largely and as rapidly as possible; which 
can only be effected by emigration being directed to that point, 
and he having no claim to the character of a superhuman be- 
ing, would not feel his sense of importance lessened bv being 
the founder of a large English colony. Taking these consi- 
derations into our calculati(jn, and reflecting upon their neces- 
sary effect on the mind of any man so circumstanced, we may 
be supplied with an explanation of much that is contained in 
the " Notes on a Journey to Illinois.'" '' 

Mr. Cobbett has entered into an able examination of Mr. 
Birkbeck's account of America, which, notwithstanding his 
esteem for the writer, he thinks will prove both injurious to 
the intei'ests of English farmers who are captivated by it, and 
to the character of the United St.ttes. ' Persons,"* he observes, 
* of advanced age, of settled habits, of deep- rooted prejudices, 
of settled acquaintances, of contracted sphere of movement, do 
not, to use ]\Ir. George Flower's expression, " transplant well."" 
Of all such perscms farmers transplant worst; and of all 
farmers, English farmers are the worst to transplant. Of 
some of the tears^ shed in the Illinois, an account reached me 
several months ago, through an eye-witness of perfect veracity, 

3 T 



oU VIEW OF THE 

and a very sincere friend of freedom and of you, and whose 
information was given mc, unasked for, and in the presence of. 
several Englishmen, every one of whom, as veil as myself, 
most ardently wished you success. 

* It is nothing, my dear sir, to say, as you do, in the preface 
to the " Letters from the lUyiois,"" that, " as little would I 
encourage the emigration of the tribe of grumblers, people 
who are petulent and discontented under the every-day evils 
of life. Life has its petty miseries in all situations and cli- 
mates, to be mitigated or cured by the cojitinual efforts of an 
elastic spirit, or to be borne, if incurable, with cheerful pa- 
tience. But the peevish emigrant is perpetually comparing 
the comforts he has quitted, but never could enjoy, with the 
privations of his new allotment. He overlooks the present 
good, and broods over the evil with habitual perverseness ; 
whilst in the recollection of the past, he dwells on the good 
only. Such people are always bad associates, but they are an 
especial nuisance in an infant colony.'' 

' Give me leave to say, my dear sir, that there is too muci 
asperity in this language, C(/nsidering who were the objects or 
the censure. Nor do you appear to me to afford, in this in- 
stances, a very happy Illustration of the absence of that peevish- 
ness, which you perceive in others, and for the yielding to 
which you call tliem a nuisance; an appellation much too 
harsh for the object and for the occasion. If you, with all 
your elasticity of spirit, all your ardour of pursuit, all your 
compensations of fortune in prospect, and all your gratifica 
tions of fame in possession, cannot with patience hear the wail- 
ings of some of your neighbours, into what source ai*e they to 
dip for the waters of content and good humour.-* 

* It is no "every-day evil" that they have to bear. For an 
English farmer, and, more especially, an English fanner's wife, 
after crossing the sea and ti'avelling to the Illinois, with the 

onscionsriess of having expended a tliird of their substance, 
to purchase, as yet, nothing but sufferings ; for such persons 
to boil their pot in the gipsy fashion, to have a mere board to 
<:at on, to drink whisky or pure water, to sit and sleep under 
fi shed far inferior to their English cow-pens, to have a mill a\ 



UNITED STATES. 515 

twenty miles distance, an apothecary's shop at a hundred, and 
a doctor no where ; these, my dear sir, are not, to such people, 
" every-day evils of life."" You, though in your little " cahin,'" 
have your books, you have your name circulating in the world, 
you have it to be given, by and by, to a city or a county ; and 
if you fail of brilliant success, you have still a sufficiency of 
fortune to secure you a safe retreat. Almost the whole of your 
neighbours must be destitute of all these sources of comfort, 
hope, and consolation. As they now are, their change is, and 
must be, for the worse; and as to the future, besides the un- 
certainty attendant every where on that which is to come, they 
ought to be excused if they, at their age, despair of seeing 
days as happy as those that they have seen. 

' It were much better for such people not to emigrate at all ; 
for while they are sure to come into a state of some degree of 
suffering, they leave behind them the chance of happy days ; 
and, in my opinion, the certainty of such days. 

' But leaving this matter for the present, if English farmers 
must emigrate, why should they encounter unnecessary diffi- 
culties.'' Coming from a country like a garden, why should 
they not stop in another somewhat resembling that which they 
have lived in before.'* Why should they, at an expence 
amounting to a large part of what they possess, prowl two 
thousand miles at the hazard of their limbs and lives, take 
women and children through scenes of hardship and distress 
not easily described, and that too to Hve like gipsies at the end 
of their journey for at least a year or two, and, as I think I 
shall show, without the smallest chance of their finally doing 
so well as they may do in these Atlantic states."^ Why shoukl 
an English farmer and his family, who have always been jog- 
ging about a snug homestead, eating regular meals, and sleep- 
ing in warm rooms, push back to the Illinois, and encounter 
those hardships which require all the habitual disregard of 
comfort of an iVmerican back- woodsman to overcome ? Why 
should they do this.? The undertaking is hardly reconcileable 
to reason in an Atlantic American farmer who has half a dozen 
sons, all brought up to use the axe, the saw, the chissel, and 
the hammer from their infancy, and every one of whom i"- 



516 VIEW OF THE 

ploughman, carpenter, wheelwright, and butcher, aiul can 
work from sun-rise to sun-set, and sleep, if need he, upon the 
bare boards. What then must it be to an English farmer and 
his family of helpless mortals? Helpless, I mean, in this 
scene of such novelty and such difficulty. And what is his 
wife to do ; she who has been torn from all her relations and 
neighbours, and from every thing that she liked in the world, 
and who perhaps has never, in all her life before, been ten 
miles from the cradle in which she was nursed 'i An Ameri- 
can farmer mends his plough, his waggon, his tackle of all 
sorts, his household goods, his shoes: and, if need be, he 
makes them all. Can our people do all this, or any part of 
it.'' Can they live without bread for months.'' Can they live 
without beer ? Can they be otherwise than miserable, cut off, 
as they are, from all intercourse with, and hope of hearing of, 
their rel-ations and friends.^ The truth is, that this is not 
tninsplanfing, it is tearing up nndjimging azvay. 

' Society ! Wh.at society can these people have 'i "ris true 
they have nobody to envy, for nobody can have any thing to 
enjoy. But there may be, and there must be, mutual com- 
plainings, upbiaidings ; and every unhappiness will be traced 
directly to him who has been, however unintentionally, the 
cause of the unhappy person's removal. The very foundation 
of your plan necessarily contained the seeds of discontent and 
iiL-will. A colony all from the same country was the very 
worst project that could have been fallen upon.' 

Mr. Cobbct then proceeds, in a strain of powerful irony, to 
ridicule Birk beck's imaginary plans of happiness in the Illinois. 
* In such a situation,' says he, ' with so many circuinstances to 
annoy, what happiness can an English family enjoy in that 
country, so far distant from all that resembles what they have 
left 'behind them ? " The fair enchantress. Liberty," of whom 
you speak \\'\th not too much rapture, tliey would have found 
in anv of -these states, and in a garb too by which they would 
have recognised her. Where they now are they are free in- 
deed ; but their freedom is that of the wild animals in your 
woods. It is not Jreedom, it is no government. The gipsies 
in England are free; and any one, who has a imnd to live in 



UNITED STATES. 517 

ft cave or cabin in some liidden recess of our Hampshire forests, 
may be free too. The English farmer in the Illinois is indeed 
beyond the reach of the borough-mongers ; and so is the man 
that is in the grave. When it was first proposed, in the Eng- 
lish ministry, to drop quietly the title of King of France in 
the enumeration of our king's titles, and when it was stated to 
be an expedient likely to tend to a peace, Mr. Windham, who 
was then a member of the cabinet, said, " As this is a measure 
of safety, and as, doubtless, we shall hear of others of the same 
cast, what think you of going under ground at once .'''" It 
was a remark enough to cut the liver out of the hearers ; but 
Pitt and his associates had no liveri!!. I do not believe that any 
twelve journeymen or labourers in England would have voted 
for the adoption of this mean and despicable measure. 

' If, indeed, tiie Illinois were the only place out of the reach 
of the borough-grasp ; and if men are resolved to get out of 
that reach ; tlien I should say. Go to the Illinois by all means. 
But as there is a country, a settled country, a free country, 
full of kind neighbours, full of all that is good, and when this 
country is to be traversed in order to get at the acknowledged 
hardships of the Illinois, how can a sane mind lead ati Englisli 
farmer into the expedition ? 

< It is the enchanting damsel that makes the knight encoun- 
ter the hair-breadth escapes, the sleeping on the ground^ the 
cooking with cross-sticks to hang the pot on. It is the prairie, 
that pretty French word, which means green grass bespangled 
with daisies and cowslips ! Oh, God ! what delusion ! And 
that a man of sense; a man of superior understanding and 
talent; a man of honesty, honour, humanity, and lofty senti- 
ment, should be the cause of this delusion ! I, my dear sir, 
have seen prairies many years ago, in America, as fine as 
vours, as fertile as yours, though not so extensive. I saw 
those prairies settled on by American loyalists, who were car- 
ried, with all their goods and tools, to the spot, and who weiHi 
furnished with four years' provisions, all at the expence of 
England ; and who had the lands given them, tools given 
them, and who were thus seated down on the borders of creeks, 
which gave them easy comnaunicatioa with the inhabited plains 



518 VIEW OF THE 

near the sea. The settlers that I particularly knew were 
Connecticut n)en. Men with famihes of sons. Men ablle to 
do as much in a day, at the works necessary in their situation, 
as so many Englishmen would be able to do in a week. They 
bea;an with a shed ; then rose to a log house ; and next to a 
frame house ; all of their own building. I have seen them 
manure their land with salmon caught ii> their creeks, and 
with pigeons caught on the land itself. It will be a long 
while before you will see such beautiful corn-fields as I saw 
there. Yet nothing but the danger and disgrace which at- 
tended their return to Connecticut prevented their returning, 
though there they must have begun the world anew. I saw 
them in their log huts, and saw them in their frame houses. 
They had overcome all their difficulties as settlers ; they were 
under a government which required neither tax nor service 
from them ; they were as happy as people could be as to ease 
and plenty ; but still they sighed for Connecticut ; and especially 
the women, young as well as old, though we, gay fellows with 
worsted or silver lace upon our bright red coats, did our best to 
make them happy by telling them entertaining stories about 
Old England, while we drank their coffee and grog by gallons, 
and eat their fowls, pigs, and sausages, and sweetmeats by 
wheelbarrow loads; for though we were by no means shy, 
their hospitality far exceeded our appetites. I am an old 
hand at the work of settling in wilds. I have, more than 
once or twice, had to begin my nest and go in, like a bird, 
making it habitable by degrees ; and if I, or if such people as 
my old friends above mentioned, with every thing found for 
them and brought to the spot, had difficulties to undergo, and 
sighed for home even after all the difficulties were over, what 
must be the lot of an English farmer's family in the lUinois?"* 
This experienced writer next gives his own ideas on the 
mode of settling proper for an English farmer. * All this,' he 
says, ' I told you, my dear sir, in London just before your 
departure. I be;;ged ol" you and Mr, Riciii.rd Flower both, 
not to think of the wildernesses. I begged of you to go to 
within a day's ride of some of these great cities, where your 
ample capital and your great skill could not fail to place you 



UNITED STATES. 619 

upon a footing, at least, with the richest amongst the most 
happy and enlightened yeomanry in the world ; where you 
would find every one to praise the improvements you would 
introduce, and nobody to envy you any thing that you might 
acquire. Where vou would find society as good, in all re- 
spects, as that which you had left behind you. Where you 
would find neighbours ready prepared for you far more gene- 
rous and hospitable than those in England can be, loaded and 
pressed down as they are by the inexorable hand of the bo- 
rough-villains. I offered you a letter (which, I believe, I 
sent you) to my friends the Pauls. " But," said I " you want 
no letter. Go into Philadelphia, or Bucks, or Chester, or 
Montgomery county ; tell any of the quakers, or any body 
else, that you ai'e an English farmer, come to settle amongst 
them ; and I'll engage that you will instantly have friends and 
neighbours as good and as cordial as those that you leave in 
England."" 

' At this very moment, if this plan had been pursued, you 
would have had a beautiful farm of two or three hundred 
acres. Fine stock upon it feeding on Swedish turnips A 
house overflowing with abundance ; comfort, ease, and, if you 
chose, elegance, would have been your inmates; libraries, 
public and private, within your reach ; and a communication 
with England much more quick and regular than that which 
vou now have even with Pittsbu^'g. 

' You say that " Philadelphians know nothing of the West- 
ern countries "" Suffer me then to say, that you know nothing 
of the Atlantic states, which indeed is the only apology for 
your saying that the Americans have no mutton fit to eat, and 
regard it only as a thing fit for dogs. In this island every 
farmer has sheep. I kill fatter lamb than I ever saw in Eng- 
land, and the fattest mutton I saw, I saw in company with 
Mr. Harline in Philadelphia market last winter. At Brighton, 
near Boston, they produced, at a cattle show this fall, an ox 
of hvo thousand seven hundred pounds weight, and sheep 
much finer than you and I saw at the Smithfield show in 
1814. Ml. J idge L vrence, of this county, kept for seven 
years an average of five hundred Merinos on his farm of one 



520 VIEW OF THE 

hundred and fifty acres, besides raising twenty acres of corn 
and his usual pretty large proportion of grain ! Can your 
Western farmers beat that ? Yes, in extent, as the surface of 
five dollars beats that of a guinea. 

* I suppose that Mr. Judge Lawrence's farm, close by the 
side of a bay that gives him two hours of water carriage to 
New York ; a farm with twenty acres of meadow, real prairie ; 
a gentleman's house and garden ; barnSj sheds, cider-house, 
stables, coach-house, corn-cribs, and orchards that may pro- 
duce from four to eight thousand bushels of apples and pears ; 
I suppose that this farm is worth three hundred dollars an 
acre ; that is, forty-five thousand dollars, or about twelve or 
thirteen thousand pounds. 

' Now then let us take a look at your estimate of the ex- 
pences of sitting down in the prairies. 

* Copy from my Memorandum Book. 

' Estimate of money required for the comfortable establishment of 
my family on Bolting house, now English prairie ; on which the 
first instalment is paid. About 720 acres of woodland, and 720 
prairie — the latter to be chiefly grass : — 

Dollars. 
Second instalment, August, 1819, 720 dollars; Third, Au- 
gust, 1820, 720 dollars; Fourth, August, 1821, 720 

dollars 21(i0 

Dw5felling-house and appurtenances - - - - 4500 

Other buildings 1500 

4G80 rods of fencing, viz, 3400 on the prairie, and 1280 

round the woodland - - - - - - 11 70^ 

Sundry wells, 200 dollars; gates, 100 dollars; cabins, 200 

dollars 500 

100 head of cattle, 900 dollars; 20 sows, &c. 100 dollars; 

sheep, 1000 dollars 2000 

Ploughs, waggons, &c. and sundry tools and implements 270 

Housekeeping until the land supi)lies us - - - 1000 

Shepherd one year's wages, herdsman one year, and sun- 
dry other labourers _--_-- 1000 
One cabinet maker, one wheelwright, one year, making 

fm-niture and implements, 300 dollars each - - fiOO 



UNITED STATES. 521 

Dollars. 

Sundry articles of furniture, iron-mongery, pottery, glass, &c. 500 

Sundries, fruit trees, &c. - - - - - - 100 

First instalment already paid . _ w - . 720 

Five horses on hand worth . . _ . _ 300 
Expence of freight and carriage of linen, bedding, books, 

clothing, &c. - - 1000 

Value of articles brought from England _ _ . 4500 

Voyage and jouniey _---__ 2000 



23,820 
L5359 sterling. 
Allow about 600 dollars more for corn and seed 141 



L5500- 



^ ' So here is more than one-third of the amount of Mr. 
Judfje La\vrence''s farm. To be sure, there are only about 
18,000 dollars expended on land, buildings, and getting at 
them; but what a life is that which you are to lead for a 
thousand dollars a year, when two good domestic servants will 
cost four hundred of the money ? Will you live like one of 
the yeomen of your rank here ? Then, I assure you, that 
your domestics and groceries (the latter three times as dear as 
they are hei*e) and crockery-ware (equally dear) will more 
than swallow up that pitiful sum. You allow six thousand 
dollars for buildings. Twice the sum would not put you, in 
this respect, upon a footing with J\Ir. Lav/ronce. His land is 
all completely fenced, and his grain in the ground. His apple 
trees have six thousand bushels of apples in their buds, ready 
to come out in the spiing ; and a large part of these to be sold 
at a high price to go on ship-board. But what is to give you 
his market? What is to make your ])ork, as soon as killed, 
sell for nine or ten dollars a hundred, and your cows at 45 or 
50 dollars each, and your beef at seven or eight dollars a hun- 
dred, and your corn at a dollar and wheat at two dollars a 
bushel ? 

' However, happiness is in the mind ; and if it be necessary 
for the gratification of your mind to inhabit a wilderness, and 
be the owner of a large tract of land, you are right to seek 

3 II 



522 VIEW OF THE 

and enjoy this gratification. But for the plain, plodding Eng- 
lish farmer, who simply seeks safety tor his little property, 
with some addition to it for his children ; for such a person to 
cross the Atlantic states in search of safety, tranquillity, and 
gain in the Illinois, is, to my mind, little short of madness. 
Yet to this mad enterprise is he allured hy your captivating 
statements, and which statements become decisive in their 
effects upon his mind, when they are reduced to figures. 
This, my dear sir, is the part of your writings which has 
given me most pain. You have not meant to deceive ; but 
you have first practised a deceit upon yourself, and then upon 
others. All the disadvantages you state ; but then you ac- 
company the statement by telling us how quickly and how 
easily they will be overcome. Salt, Mr. Hulme finds, even at 
Zanesville, at two dollars and a half a bushel ; but you tell us 
that it will soon be at a quarter of a dollar. And thus it goes 
all through. 

^ I am happy, however, that you have given us figures in 
your account of what an English farmer may do with two 
thousand pounds. It is alluring, it is fallacious, it tends to 
disappointment, misery, ruin, and broken hearts ; but it is 
open and honest in intention, and it affords us the means of 
detecting and exposing the fallacy. Many and many a family 
have returned to ;i.New England after having emigrated to the 
west in search of fine estates. They, able workmen, exem- 
plary livers, have returned to labour in their native states, 
amongst their relations and old neighbours ; but what are our 
poor ruined countrymen to do when they become pennyless P 
If I could root my country from my heart, common humanity 
would urge me to make an humble attempt to dissipate the 
charming delusions, which have, without your perceiving it, 
>^one forth from your sprightly and able pen, and which delu- 
sions are the more dangerous on account of your justly high 
md well-known chai'acter for understandino; and inteftrity. 

'The statement to which I allude stands as follows, in your 
tenth Letter from the Illinois. 

' A capital of 2000/. sterling, (8889 dollars.) may be invested 
on a section of such land, in the following manji(M\ viz 



UNITED STATES. 523 

Dollars. 
Purchase of the land, 640 acres, at 2 dollars per acre 1280 
House and buildings, exceedingly convenient and comfort- 
able, may be built for .... 1500 
A rail fence round the woods, 1000 rods, at 25 cents per rod 250 
About 1 800 rods of ditch and bank, to divide the arable 

into 10 fields, at 33i .... 600 

Planting 1800 rods of live fence . . . 150 

Fruit trees for orchard, &c. . . . . 100 

Horses and other live stock .... 1500 

Implements and furniture .... 1000 

Provision for one year, and sundry incidental charges 1000 
Sundry articles of linen, books, apparel, implements, &c. 

brought from England .... 1000 

Carriage of ditto, suppose 2000 lbs. at 10 dollars per cwt. 200 

Voyage and travelling expences of one person, suppose 309 

8889 
Note. — The first instalment on the land is 320 dollars, therefore 
960 dollars of the purchase money remain in hand, to be applied to 
the expences of cultivation, in addition to the sums above stated. 

Expenditure ofjirst Year. 

Bi-eaking up 100 acres, 2 dollars per acre . . 200 

Indian corn for seed, 5 barrels (a barrel is five bushels) 10 

Planting ditto . . . . . 25 

Horse-hoeing ditto, one dollar per acre . . 100 

Harvesting ditto, 1^ dollar per acre . • . 150 

Ploughing the same land for wheat, 1 dollar per acre 100 

Seed wheat, sowing, and harrowmg . . . 175 

Incidental expences ..... 240 

1000 

Produce qf^rst Year. 
100 acres of Indian corn, 50 bushels (or 10 barrels) per acre, 
at 2 dollars per barrel .... 2000 

Net produce 1000 
Expenditure of second year. 
Breaking up 100 acres for Indian corn, with expences on 
that crop ...... 485 

Harvesting and threshing wheat, 100 acres . . 350 



524 VIEW OF THE 

DoIIarg. 
Ploughing 100 acres for wheat, seed, &c. . . 275 

Incidents ' . . " . . . . 290 

1400 
Produce of second year. 
100 acres Indian corn, 10 barrels per acre, 2 dollars 

per barrel ..... 2000 

100 acres wheat, 20 bushels per acre, 75 dollars per 

barrel . . . . . 1500 3500 



Net produce 2100 
. Expenditure of third year. 
Breaking up 100 acres as before, with expences on crop of 

Indian corn . , . ... 485 

Ploughing 100 acres wheat stubble for Indian corn . 100 
Horse-hoeing, harvesting, &c. ditto . . . 285 
Harvesting and threshing 100 acres wheat . , 350 
Dung-carting 100 acres for wheat, after second crop of In- 
dian corn ...... 200 

Ploughing 200 acres wheat, seed, &c. . . 550 

Incidents . . . . . . 330 

2300 
Produce of third year. 
200 acres Indian corn, 10 barrels per acre, 2 dollars 

per barrel . . . . . 4000 

100 acres wheat, 20 bushels per acre, 75 dollars per 
barrel ' . • . , . 1500 5500 . 



Net produce 3200 
Expenditure of fourth year. 

As the third ...... 2300 

Harvesting and threshing 100 acres more wheat . 350 

Additional incidents .... 50 

2700 
Produce of fourth year. 
200 acres Indian corn, as above . . 4000 

200 acres wheat . . . . 3000 7000 



Net produce 4300 



Expences. 


Produce, 


Dollars. 


Dollars. 


1000 


2000 


1400 


.^500 


2300 


.5500 


2700 


7000 




18,000 


4000 


11,400 



UNITED STATES. 525 

Suvivmrif. 



First year 

Second .... 

Third .... 

Fourth .... 

Housekeeping and other expences for 
four years . . * 

Net proceeds per annum .... l650 

Increasing value of land by cultivation and settlements, 

half a dollar per annum on 640 acres . , 320 

Annual clear profit 1 970 

" Twenty more: kill 'em ! Twenty more: kill them too !" 
No : I will not compare you to Bobadil ; for he was an inten- 
tional deceiver ; and you are unintentionally deceiving others 
and yourself too. But really there is in this statement some- 
thing so extravagant, so perfectly wild, so ridiculously and 
staringly untrue, that it is not without a great deal of difficulty 
that all my respect for you persoixally can subdue in me the 
temptation to treat it with the contempt due to its intrinsic 
demerits'. ' 

' I shall notice only a few of the items. A house, you say, 
" exceedingly convenient and comfortable, together with farm 
buildings, may be built for 1500 dollars." Your own intend- 
ed house you estimate at 4500, and your out-buildings at 
1500. So that if this house of the farmer (an English farmer, 
mind) and his buildings are to be "exceedingly convenient 
and comfortable '"* for 1500 dollars, your house and buildings 
must be on a scale, whicli, if not perfectly princely, must 
savour a good deal of aristocratical distinction. But this if 
relieves us; for even your house, built of pine timber and 
boards, and covered with cedar shingles, and finished only as 
a good plain farm-house ought to be, will, if it be thirty-six 
feet front, thirty-four feet deep, two rooms in front, kitchen 
and wash-house behind, foiw rooms above, and a cellar be^ 



526 VIEW OF THE 

neath; yes, this house alone, the bare empty house, with 
doors and windows suitable, will cost you more than six thou- 
sand dollars. I state this upon good authority. I have taken 
the estimate of a building carpenter. "What carpenter i*" 
you will say. Why, a Long Island carpenter, and the house 
to be built within a mile of Brooklyn, or two miles of New- 
York. And this is giving you all the advantage, for here the 
pine is cheaper than with you ; the shingles cheaper ; the 
lime and stone and brick as cheap or cheaper ; the glass, iron, 
lead, brass, and tin, all at half or a quarter of the prairie 
price ; and as to labour, if it be not cheaper here than with 
you, men would do well not to go so far in search of high 
wages ! 

' Let no simple Englishman imagine that here, at and near 
New York, in this dear place., we have to pay for the boards 
and timber brought from a distance; and that j^du, the happy 
people of the land of daisies and of cowslips, can cut down 
your own good and noble oak trees upon the spot, on your 
own estates, and turn them into houses without any carting. 
Let no simple Englishman believe such idle stories as this. 
To dissipate all such notions, I have only to tell him, that the 
American farmers on this island, when they have buildings to 
make or repair, go and purchase the pine timber and boards, 
at the very same time that they cut down their own oak trees, 
and cleave up and burn them as fire- wood ! This is the uni- 
versal practice in all the parts of America that I have ever 
seen. What is the cause? Pine wood is cheaper, though 
bought, than the oak is without buying. This fact, which 
nobody can deny, is a complete proof that you gain no advan- 
tage from being in woods, as far as building is concerned. 
And the truth is, that the boards and plank, which have been 
used in the prairie, have actually been brought from the Wa- 
bash, charged with ten miles rough land carriage: how far 
they may have come down the Wabash I cannot tell. 

< Thus then the question is settled, that building must be 
cheaper here than in the Illinois. If, therefore, a house, 36 
by 34 feet, cost here 6000 dollars, what can a man get there 
for 1500 dollars ? A miserable hole, and no more. But here 



UNITED STATES. 527 

nre to be farm buildings and all in the 1500 dollars"' worth ! 
A barn, 40 feet by 30, with floor, and with stables in the 
sides, cannot be built for 1500 dollars ; leaving out waggon- 
house, corn-crib, cattle-hovels, yard fences, pig-sties, smoke 
house, and a great deal more ! And yet you say that all 
these, and a farm-house into the bargain, all "exceedingly 
comfortable and convenient," may be had for 1500 dollars ! 

' Now you know, my dear sir, that this is said in the face of 
all America. Farmers are my readers. They all understand 
these matters. They are not only good, but impartial judges ; 
and I call upon you to contradict, or even question, my state- 
ments, if you can. 

' Do my eyes deceive me ? Or do I really see one hundred 
and fifty dollars put down as the expence of " planting one 
thousand eight hundred rod of live fence P"" That is to say, 
three-quarters of a cent, or three-quarters of an English half- 
penny a rod ! The " enchantress, Liberty,'' must have had 
you wholly to herself here ; or rather she must have taken the 
pen out of your hand, and written this item herself; for so 
great a liberty with truth never was taken by any mortal be- 
ing. What plants ? Whence to come ? Drawn out of the 
woods, or first sown in a nursery ? Is it seed to be sown ? 
Where are the seeds to come from ? No levelling of the top 
of the bank; no drill; no sowing; no keeping clean for a 
year or two : or all these for three-quarters of a cent a rod, 
when the same works cost half a dollar a rod in England i 
Oh, monstrous tale ! To dwell upon such a story is to insult 
the good sense of the reader. My real opinion is, that you 
will never have any thing worthy of the name of a live fence 
in the prairies ; and that the itlea only makes part of a delu- 
sive dream. No labourer in America will look at a rod of 
your banks for three-quarters of a cent. 

' Manure, too ! And do you really want manure then ? 
And where, I pray, are you to get manure for 100 acres? 
But supposing you to have it, do you seriously mean to tell us 
that you will carry it on for two dollars an acre .'' The carry- 
ing on, indeed, might perhaps be done for that ; but who pays 
for the filling and for the spreading ? Ah, my dear sir ! I 



528 VIEW OF THE 

can well imagine your feelings at putting down the item of 
dung-carting, trifling as you make it appear upon paper. 
You now recollect my words when I last had the pleasure of 
seeing you, in Catherine-street, a few days before the depar- 
ture of us both. 1 then dreaded the dung-cart, and recom- 
mended the Tullian system to you, by which you would have 
the same crops every year without manure ; but, unfortunately 
for my advice, you sincerely believed your land would be al- 
ready too rich, and that your main difficulty would be, not to 
cart on manure, but to cart off the produce !"* 

Having thus cut up the Transalleghanian romance, he pro- 
ceeds to notice an item or two of the produce. • The farmer,'' 
says he, 'is to have 100 acres of Indian corn the first year. 
The minds of you gentlemen who cross the Alleghany seem 
to expand, as it were, to correspond with the extent of the 
horizon that opens to your view; but I can assure you, that 
if you were to talk to a farmer on this side of the mountains of 
a field of corn of a hundred acres during the first year of a 
settlement, with grassy land and hands scarce, you would 
frighten him into a third-day ague. In goes your corn, how- 
ever ! " Twenty more : kill 'em !" Nothing but ploughing : 
no harrowing: no marking: and only a horse-hoeing, during 
the summer, at a dollar an acre. The planting is to cost only 
a quarter of a dollar an acre, "^'he planting will cost a dollar 
an acre. The horse-hoeing in your grassy land, two dollars. 
The hand-hoeing, which must be well done, or you will have 
no corn, two dollars; for in spite of your teeth, your rampant 
natural grass will be up before your corn, and a man must go 
to a thousand hills to do half an acre a day. It will cost two 
dollars to harvest a hundred bushels of corn ears. So that 
here are about 400 dollars of expences on the corn alone to be 
added. A trifle, to be sure, when we are looking through the 
Transalleghanian glass, which diminishes out-goings and mag- 
nifies in-comings. However, here are 400 dollars. 

' In goes the plough for what ? " In him again .' Twenty 
more !" But this is in October, mind. Is the corn off? It 
may be ; but where are the four hundred waggon loads of 
corn stalks.^ A prodigiously fine thing is this forest of fod- 



UNITED STATES.- o<2c< 

der, as high and as thick as an English coppice. But though 
it be of no use to you, who have the meadows without bounds, 
this coppice must be removed, if you please, before you 
plough for wheat ! 

'Let us pause here then; let us look at tiie battalion who 
are at work ; for there must be little short of a Hessian batta- 
lion. Twenty men and twenty horses may husk the corn, cut 
and cart the stalks, plough and sow and harrow for the wheat ; 
twenty two-legged and twenty four-legged animals may do the 
work in the proper time; but, if they do it, they must work 
well. Here is a goodly group to look at, for an English 
farmer, without a penny in his pocket ; for all his money is 
gone long ago, even according to your own estimate ; and 
here, besides the expence of cattle and tackle, are 600 dollars, 
in bare wages, to be paid in a month ! You and I both havr 
forgotten the sheihng of the corn, which, and putting it up. 
will come to 50 dollars more at the least, leaving the price of 
the Ijarrel to be paid for by the ))urchaser of the corn. 

'But what did I say.'* Shell the corn .^ It must go into 
the cribs first. It cannot be shelled imn)ediately. And it 
must not be thrown mto heaps. It must be put into ci-ibs. 
I have had made out an estimate of the expence of the cribs 
for ten thousand bushels of corn ears: that is the crop; and 
the cribs will cost 570 dollars ! Though, mind, the farmer''s 
house, barns, stables, waggon-house, and all, are to cost but 
1500 dollars ! But the third year our poor simpleton is to 
have 200 acres of corn ! " Twentv more : kill Vm ■" Ano- 
ther 570 dollars for cribs ! 

• However, crops now come tumbling on him so fast, that 
he must struggle laard not to be stifled with his own super- 
abundance. He has now got 200 acres of corn and 1 00 acres 
of wheat, v/hich latter he has indeed had one year before ! 
Oh, madness! But to proceed. The hands to get in these 
crops and to sow the wheat, first taking away 200 atrts of 
English coppices in slalks, will, with the dunging for the 
wheat, require, at least, fifty good men, and forty good horses 
or oxen, for thirty days. Faith i when farmer Simpleton .sees 
all this (in hi* fireiuns I mean), he will think hiniself a farmer 



530 VIEW OF THE • 

of the rank of Job, before Satan beset that example of patienif ., 
so worthy of imitation smd so seldom imitated. 

' Well, but Simpleton must bustle to get in his wheat. In^ 
indeed I What can cover it but the canopy of heaven ? A 
barn ! It will, at two English waggon loads of sheaves to an 
acre, require a barn a hundred feet long, fifty feet wide, and 
twenty-three feet high up to the eaves; and this barn, with 
two proper floors, will cost more than seven thousand dollars. 
He will put it in stacks ; let him add six men to his battalion 
then. He will thrash it in the field ; let him add ten more 
men ! Let him, at once, send and press the Harmonites into 
his service, and make Rapp march at their head ; for never 
will he by any other means get in the crop ; nnd even then, if 
he pay fair wages, he will lose by it. 

'After the crop is in and the seed sown, in the fall, what is 
to become of Simpieton^s men till corn ploughing and planting 
time in the spring? And then when the planting is done., 
what is to become of them till harvest time ? Is he, like 
Bayes in the Rehearsal, to lay them down when he pleases, 
and when he pleases make them rise up again ? To hear you 
talk about these crops, and at other times to hear you advising 
others to bring labourers from England, one would think you, 
for your own part, able, like Cadmus, to make men start up 
out of the earth. How would one ever have thought it pos- 
sible for infatuation like this to seize hold of a mind hke 
yours ? 

' When I read, in your Illinois Lettei's, that you had pi'e- 
pared horses, ploughs, and other things, for putting in a hun- 
dred acres of corn in the spring, how I pitied you ! I saw all 
your plagues, if you could not see them. I saw the grass 
choking your plants ; the grubs eating them ; and you turn- 
ing from the sight with all the pangs of sanguine baffled hope. 
I expected you to have ten bushels, instead of fifty, upon an 
acre. I saw your confusion, and participated in your mortifi- 
eation. From these feelings I was happily relieved by the 
Journal of our friend Hulme, who informs the world, and our 
countrymen in particular, that you had not, in July last, any 
corn at all jirowinir. 



• 



UNITED STATES. 531 

' Thus it is to reckon one's chickens before they are hatched : 
and thus the Transalleghanian dream vanishes. You have 
been deceived. A Warm heart, a hvely imagination, and I 
know not what caprice about repubhcanism, have led you into 
sanguine expectations and wrong conclusions. Come, now, 
confess it like yourself; that is, like a man of sense and spirit ; 
like an honest and fair-dealing John Bull. To err belongs to 
all men, great as well as little ; but to be ashamed to confess 
error belongs only to the latter.' 

8. Merchants and Manufacturers. 

There is not now any great scope for mercantile specula- 
tions ; though those who possess a large capital, and could 
become importers, might succeed ; particularly those who un- 
derstand the principles of business. 

The manufacturers in America have long struggled against 
numerous difficulties, in consequence of the government feeling 
averse from granting high prohibitory duties, which -would 
operate to cause an injurious re-action upon the trade of the 
country. 

The general arguments against manufactures are, that their 
encouragement will enhance the price of clothing : that this 
will operate as a heavy tax upon the whole community, for 
the benefit of but a few : that the revenue of the United States 
would be materially injured, as its chief supply is from duties 
on imports : that in an extensive country, with but a scanty 
population, it is most beneficial to direct the mass of labour to 
the clearing of new lands, and other agricultural pursuits: 
that by so doing they will make greater and more rapid ad- 
vances in extent of population and amount of national wealth, 
than by drawing off a part of their capital and labour, and 
devoting it to purposes of manufacture ; more especially while 
most of the articles wanted can be imported from England 30 
to 50 per cent, cheaper than it is possible for them to be pro- 
duced within the Union : that as labour is so high and land so 
cheap, there is an ever-existing inducement for men to leave 
factories, and free themselves from masters, to become lords of 
their own domain : and that this has been uniformlv found to 



oii'-Z VIEW OF THE 

be the case, — the slow advance of" manufactures, and the con- 
sequent high price of the articles, having been a natural result 
of the situation of the country : that, in a word, it is the true 
interest of America to continue supplying Europe with raw 
material and with agricultural produce, both of which iind 
there a certain market, while labour is from 25 to 50 per cent. 
higher than in England, and from 50 to 75 more than on the 
European continent. 

On the manufacturers*' side of this truly great national ques- 
tion is Mr. J)e Witt Clinton, governor of New York : in a 
speech which has had few equals in comprehensive and philo- 
sophic views, addressed to the legislature, he makes the fol- 
lowing able reflections : 

' The excessive importation of foreign fabrics was the signal 
of ruin to institutions founded by enterprising industry, reared 
by beneficial skill, and identified with the general welfare. 
The raw materials of iron, woollen, and cotton manufactures 
are abundant, and those for the minor and auxiliary ones, can, 
in most cases, be pi'ocured at home with equal facility. No- 
thing is wanting to destroy foreign competition but the steady 
protection of the government, and the public spirit of the 
country. High duties, and prohibiting provisions applied to 
foreign productions, afibrd the most efficient encouragement to 
our manufactures: and these measures appertain to the legiti- 
mate functions of the national government. But much may- 
be done by the state government, by liberal accommodations, 
by judicious exemptions, and by the whole weight of its influ- 
ence ; and much more may be accomphshed by the spirit of 
the community. For I am persuaded, tliat if" every citizen 
who adopts the fabrics of other nations, would seriously consi- 
der that he is not only paying taxes for the support of foreign 
governments, but that he participates in undermining one of 
the main pillars of our productive industry, he would imitate 
the honourable practice which you have this day evinced in 
favour of American manufactures.'' ' 

Upon the whole, it seems that it is not now the interest of" 
the United States, artificially to encourage the growth of ma- 
iiijfaclures, by granting them peculiar advantages. It appears 



UNITED STATES. 533 

at any rate certain, that in the present state of things, hone 
could engage in the cotton or woollen estaWishments without 
a certainty of loss. 

' In a great many trades or professions,"* says the writer of 
the Emigrant's Guide, ' the emigrant who has a capital, and a 
trade or proibssion, may not meet with much difficulty, if he 
act with caution. Much in this case depends on making a 
judicious choice in determining where to establish his business. 
In most trades, the country beyond the Alleghany mountains, 
say Ohio, Kentucky, or Tennessee, hold out greater advan- 
tages than the rest of the Union ; the profits in business being 
greater, and the expence of living much less : the climate also 
is more suitable to European constitutions, as the extreme be- 
twixt the heat of summer and cold of winter is much less than 
in the Atlantic states. In some trades he may be expected to 
keep journeymen, perhaps Americans ; from whom he is ad- 
vised not to exact that servility of deportment expected from 
subordinates in other countries. He may be faithfully served 
without it. He loses nothing by this, as those who are his 
employers or customers will make no such exactions from him.'' 

4. Mechanics. 

On landing, the emigrant who is too poor to enter into bu- 
siness himself must of course seek employment. ' The com- 
modity he has to dispose of,' says the above-mentioned writer, 
' is labotcr, for which he wants a market. So much of this is 
daily brought into the sea-ports, by the arrival of emigrants, 
that they are always over-stocked ; he must look for a better 
chance: — this chance the country will afford him. If his 
trade or profession be such as is followed in a city, he may re- 
main two days before he goes into the country ; if unsuccess- 
ful in his enquiries for work, he ought not to remain longer. 
During his stay, he ought to enquire amongst those of his- 
own profession, where he may hope to obtain employment ; it 
is very likely they may furnish references which will be very 
useful to him. In travelling, this man ought not to be sparing 
in his enquiries ; he is not in the least danger of receiving a 
rude or an uncivil answer, even if he should address himself 



534 VIEW OF THE 

to a squire (so justices are called). It is expected, in America. 
that eveiy man sliall attend to his own concerns ; and if a man 
who is out of work asks for employment, it is considered as a 
very natural thing. 

* He ought to make his situation and profession known at 
the taverns where he stops, and rather to court than to shun 
conversation with any that he may find assembled there. He 
will seldom or never meet with a repulse, as it gives them an 
opportunity of making inquiries respecting the " old country^^'' 
(the term usually applied to the British islands). 

' Should he fail in procuring employment at his own busi- 
ness, he has all the advantages of the agriculturist. The 
countries west of the Alleghany mountains afford the greatest 
advantages, of any pait of the United States, to emigrants of 
this description ; and when they arrive at the head of the 
Ohio, the facility of descending that river opens to them a 
vast field, in which labour must, for ages to come, find a good 
market, as the vast tract of fine land yet unsettled will induce 
such an avidity for farming, that labourei's, or men who have 
trades or professions, will adopt that line of life whenever they 
can raise the means of purchasing land. For this reason a 
very long time must elapse before there can be such a redun- 
dancy of labour as to reduce its value.' 

Mechanics may form their own judgment from the preced- 
ing statements. Weavers, stocking-makers, and others, ac- 
quainted only with the cotton, woollen, hardware, and linen 
manufactures^ would find employment very difficult to obtain. 
Those whose trades are of the first necessity will do well. In 
the western country mechanics complain of the difficulty which 
they experience in getting jpaicf for their labour, much of what 
they receive being given them in orders upon shops for neces- 
saries and clothing; the extra price charged by the store- 
keeper, under these circumstances, causing a clear loss to some 
amount. 

5. Labourers. 

This class of emigrants are almost sure to obtain the means 
of subsistence ; but they have some difficulties to encounter. 



UNITED STATES. 53.5 

The following contains Mr. Cobbetf s opinion on this subject, 
which exhibits a lively picture of the advantages enjoyed b>: 
the American poor, though perhaps it is overcharged. 

' Labour is the great article of expence upon a farm ; yet it 
is not nearly so great as in England, in proportion to the 
amount of the produce of a farm, especially if the poor-rates 
be, in both cases, included. However, speaking of the positive 
wages, a good farm-labourer has twenty-five pounds sterling a 
year and his board and lodging ; and a good day-labourer has, 
upon an average, a dollar a day. A woman servant, in a 
farm-house, has from forty to fifty dollars a year, or eleven 
pounds sterling. These are the average of the wages through- 
out the country. But then, mind, the farmer has nothing (for 
really it is not woi'th mentioning) to pay in poor-rates, which 
in England must always be added to the wages that a farmer 
pays ; and sometimes they far exceed the wages. 

' It is too of importance to knovv what sort of labourers these 
Americans are; for, though a labourer is a labourer, still 
there is some difference in them ; and these Americans are the 
best that I ever saw. Tiiey mow four acres of oats, wheal, 
rye, or barley in a day, and, with a cradle, lay it so smooth 
in the swarths, that it is tied up in sheaves with the greatest 
neatness and ease. They mow two acres and a half of grass 
ill a day, and they do the work well. And the crops, upon 
an average, ai*e all, except the wheat, as heavy as in England 
The Enolish farmer will want nothino- more than these facts 
to convince him, that the labour, after all, is not so very dear. 

' The causes of these performances, so far beyond those in 
England, is, first, the men are tall and well built ; they are 
bony rather than fleshy ; and they live, as to food, as well as 
man can live. And, secondly, they have been educated to do 
much in a day. The farmer here generally is at the head of 
his " boys," as they, in the kind language of the country, are 
called. Here is the best of examples. My old and beloved 
friend. Mi*. James Paul, used, at the age of nearly sixty, to go 
at the head of his mowers, though his fine farm was his own, 
and though he might, in other respects, be called a rich man ; 
and I have heard that Mr. Elias Hicks, the famous quaker 



53(j VIEW OF THE 

preacher, who lives about nine miles from this spot, has this 
year, at seventy years of age, cradled down four acres of rye 
in a day. I wish some of the preachers of other descriptions, 
especially our fat parsons in England, would think a little of 
this, and would betake themselves to " work with their hands 
the things which be good, that they may have to give to him 
who needeth," and not go on any longer gormandizing and 
swilling upon the labour of those who need. 

* Besides the great quantity of work performed by the 
American labourer, his skill, the versatility of his talent, is a 
great thing. Every man can use an axe, a saw, and a liam- 
mer. Scarcely one who cannot do any job at rough carpen- 
tering, and mend a plough or a waggon. Very few indeed 
who cannot kill and dress pigs and sheep, and many of them 
oxen and calves. Every farmer is a neat butcher; a butcher 
for market ; and, of course, "■ the boys'" must learn. This is 
a great convenience. It makes you so independent as to a 
main part of the means of housekeeping. All are ploughmen. 
In short, a good labourer here can do any thing that is to be 
done u})on a farm. 

' The operations necessary in miniature cultivation they are 
very awkward at. The gardens are ploughed in general. An 
American labourer uses a spade in a very awkward manner. 
They poke the earth about as if they had no eyes ; and toil 
and muck themselves half to death to dig as much ground 
in a day as a Surrey man would dig in about an hour of 
hard work. Banking, hedging, they know nothing about. 
They have no idea of the use of a bill-hook, which is so 
adroitly used in the coppices of Hampshire and Sussex. An 
axe is their tool, and with that tool, at cutting down trees or 
cutting them up, they will do ten times as much in a day as 
any other men that 1 ever saw. Set one of these men on 
upon a wood of timber trees, and his slaughter will astonish 
you. A neighbour of mine tells a story of an Irishman, who 
promised he could do any thing, and whom, therefore, to 
begin with, the employer sent into the wood to cut down a 
load of wood to burn. He staid a long while away with the 
team, and the farmer went to him fearing some accident ha<j 



UNITED STATF.S. " 537 

happened. "What are you about all this time?" said the 
farmer. The man was hacking away at a hickory tree, but 
had not got it half down ; and that was all he had done. An 
American, black or white, would have had half a dozen trees 
cut down, cut up into lengths, put upon the carriage, and 
brought home, in the time. 

' So {hat our men, who come from England, must not ex- 
pect that, in these common labours of the country, they are to 
surpass, or even equal, these " Yankees," who, of all men that 
I ever saw, are the most active and the most hardy. They 
skip over a fence like a greyhound. They will catch you a 
pig in an open field by racing him down ; and they are afraid 
of nothing. 

*An American labourer is not regulated, as to time, by 
clocks and watches. The sun, who seldom hides his face, 
tells him when to begin in the morning and when to leave off 
at night. He has a dollar, a whole dollar for his work ; but 
then it is the work of a whole day. Here is no dispute about 
hours. " Hours were made for slaves," is an old saying ; and 
really they seem here to act upon it as a practical maxim. 
This is a great thing in agricultural affairs. It prevents so 
many disputes. It removes so great a cause of disagreement. 
The American labourers, like tlie tavern-keepers, are never 
servile, but always civil. Neither boobishness nor meanness 
mark their character. They never creep and fawn, and are 
never rude. Employed about your house as day-labourers, 
they never come to interlope for victuals or drink. They 
have no idea of such a thing : their pride would restrain them 
if their plenty did not; and thus would it be with all labour- 
ers, in all countries, were they left to enjoy the fair produce 
of their labour. Full pocket or empty pocket, these American 
labourers are always the same men : no saucy cunning in the 
one case, and no base crawhng in the other. This too arises 
from the free institutions of government. A man has a voice 
because he is a man, and not because he is the possessor of 
money. And shall I never see our English labourers in this 
happy state ? 

3 Y 



mS VIEW OF THE 

' Let those English fanners, who love to see a poor wretched 
labourer stand trembling before them with his hat off, and 
who think no more of him than of a dog, remain where they 
are ; or go off, on the cavalry horses, to the devil at once, if 
they wish to avoid the tax-gatherer; for they would here 
meet with so many mortifications, that they would, to a cer- 
tainty, hang themselves in a month."* 

According to this account, these American labourers are a 
wonderful set of fellows. They surpass our Englishmen 
amazingly ; for we have no instance, in this country, of an 
old quaker, at seventy years of age, cradling down four acres 
of land in a day ; nor can our ablest rustics mow two acres 
and a half of grass in a day. Even although their time be 
not regulated by clocks and watches, and they continue at 
work while the sun is above the horizon, yet there is a point 
beyond which human exertion cannot be repeatedly strained. 

Connected with this subject, we will also give this popular 
writer's remarks on American pauperism, because it is com- 
pletely at variance with Bristed's account, and in manypai'ti- 
culars differs from the view we have given of the subject. 

' It is notorious,"' he says, ' that whatever may be the num- 
ber of persons relieved by poor-rates, the greater part of them 
are Europeans, who liave come hither, at different periods and 
under circumstances of distress, different, of course, in degree. 
There is, besides, a class of persons here of a description very 
pecuHar; namely, the free negroes. Whatever may have 
been the motives which led to their emancipation, it is very 
certain that it has saddled the white people with a charge. 
These negroes are a disorderly, improvident set of beings; 
and the paupers, in the country, consist almost wholly pf 
them. Take out the foreigners and the negroes, and you will 
find that the paupers of New York do not amount to a hun- 
dredth part of those of Liveipool, Bristol, Birmingham, or 
London, population for population. New York is a sea port, 
and the only great sea port of a large district of country. All 
the disorderly crowd to it. It teems with emigrants; but 
even there, a pauper who is a white native American is a 
great rarity. 



UNITED STATES. 53<^ 

* But do the borough-villains think that the word pauper 
has the same meaning here that it has under their scoqjion 
rod ? A pauper under them means a man that is ahle and 
willing to work, and who does \\ork like a horse ; and who is 
so taxed, has so much of his earnings taken from him by them 
to pay the interest of their debt, and the pensions of them- 
selves and their wives, children, and dependents, that he is 
actually starving and fainting at his work. This is what is 
meant by a pauper in England. But at New York, a pauper 
is, generally, a man who is unable, or, wTiich is more fre- 
quently the case, unwilling to work ; who i^ become debilitated 
from a vicious life ; or who, like borough-mongers and pi-iests, 
finds it more pleasant to live upon the labour of others than 
upon his own labour. A pauper in England is fed upon 
bones, garbage, refuse meat, and " substitutes for bread."" A 
pauper here expects, and has, as much flesh, fish, and bread 
and cake as he can devour. How gladly would many a little 
tradesman, or even little farmer, in England, exchange his 
■diet for that of a New York pauper ! 

' Where there are such paupers as those in England, there 
are beggars; because when they find that they are nearly 
starved in the former character, they will try the latter in spite 
of all the vagrant acts that any hell-born funding system can 
engender. And who ever saw a beggar in America ? " I 
have !'' exclaims some spy of the borough-mongers, who hopes 
to become a borough-monger himself And so have I too. 
I have seen a couple since I have been on this island. * * * 
But there are different sorts of beggars too as well as of pau- 
pers. In England a beggar is a poor creature, with hardly 
rags (mere rags) sufficient to cover its nakedness, so far even 
as common decency requires. A wretched mortal, the bare 
sio-ht of whom would freeze the soul of an American within 
him. A dejected, broken down thing, that approaches you 
bare-headed, on one knee, with a trembling voice, with " Pray 
bestow your charity, for the Lord Jesus Christ's sake have 
compassion upon a ))oor soul ;" and if you toss a halfpenny 
into his ragged hat, he exclaims in an extacy, "God Al- 
mighty ble^s vour honour !" though you perhaps be but a 



S40 VIEW OF THE 

shoe-black yourself. An American beggar, dressed very 
much like other people, walks up to you as boldly as if liis 
pockets were crammed with money, and, with a half smile 
that seems to say he doubts of the propriety of his conduct, 
very civilly asks you, if you can help liim to a quarter of a 
dollar. He mostly states the precise sum, and never sinks 
below silver. In short, there is no begging, properly so 
called. There is nothing that resembles English begging, 
even in the most distant degree. 

' As to the poor-rates, the real poor-rates, you must look to 
the country. In England the poor-rates equal in amount the 
rent of the land ! Here 1 pay, in poor-rates, only seven dol- 
lars upon a rent of six hundred ! And I pay my full share. 
In short, how is it possible that there should be pauper^ to 
any amount, where the common wages of a labourer are six 
dollars a week ; that is to say, twenty-seven shillings sterhng ; 
and where the necessaries of life are, upon an average, of half 
the price that they are in England ? How can a man be a 
pauper, where he can earn ten pounds of prime hog-meat a 
day, six days in every week ? I was at a horse-race, where I 
saw at least five thousand men, and not one man in shabby 
clothes. 

' But some go ba<;k after the^j- come from England ; anil 
the consul at New York has thousands of applications from 
men who want to go to Canada ; and little bands of them go 
off to that fine CQimtrij very often. These are said to be dis- 
appointed people. Yes, they expected the people at New 
York to come out in boats, I suppose, carry them on shore, 
and give up their dinners and beds to them ! If they will 
work, they will soon find beds and dinners : if they will not, 
they ought to have none. What, did they expect to find here 
the same faces and tlie same posts and trees that they left be- 
hind them ? Such foolish people are not worthy notice. The 
lazy, whether male or female, all hate a government under 
which every one enjoys his earnings, and no more. Low, 
poor, and miserable as they may be, their principle is precisely 
ihe same as thai of borough-mongers and priests; namely, to 
live withovu. I'lljour on the earnings of others. The desire to 



UNITED STATES. 541 

live thus is almost universal ; but with sluggards, thieves, bo- 
rough-mongers, and priests, it is a principle of action. Ask a 
priest why he is a priest. He will say (for he has vowed it on 
the altar !) that he believes himself called by the Holy Ghost 
to take on him the care of souls. But put the thing close to 
him ; push him hard ; and you will find it was the benefice, 
the money, and the tithes, that called him. Ask him what he 
wanted them for. That he might live, and live too without 
work. Oh ! this work ! It is an old saying, that if the devil 
find a fellow idle, he is sure to set him to work ; a saying the 
truth of which the priests seem to have done their utmost to 
establish.' 

A writer on America, who is by no means an extravagant 
advocate for emigration, says, ' The classes of British society 
who would be benefited by an exchange of country, are, I 
conceive, first, that large and much injured body of men who 
are here chained to the country and the political system, 
which oppresses and grinds them to the earth, — I mean our 
extreme poor. They would not be in America a week, before 
they would experience a rapid advance in the scale of being. 
Instead of depending for subsistence upon charity soup, occa- 
sional parochial relief, and bowing with slavish submission to 
' the tyrant of the poor-liouse , they would, if industrious and 
wilhng to labour, earn 4^. 6d. to 6,?. 9^ a day, have meat at 
least seven times in the week, and know " no one who could 
make them afraid."" The second class would be the mechanics, 
in branches of first necessity, with the general exclusion, how- 
ever, of those acquainted with the British staple manufactures 
of cotton and woollen only ; but for others, whose earnings 
here are under SOs. a week, or whose employment is of that 
precarious nature, that they cannot reasonably calculate, by 
the exercise of prudence and economy, on laying by any thing 
for what is called " a rainy day," or on making a provision for 
old age — for such persons as these, particularly if ikey liave^ 
or anticipate the having a family^ emigration to America will 
certainly advance their pecuniary interests, though it may not 
enlarge their mental sphere of enjoyments. To these two 
classes, I would furtJier add that of the small farmer who ha£ 



542 VIEW OF THE 

a family, for wliom he can now barely provide the necessaries 
of life, and concerning a provision for whom, when his own 
grey hairs are approaching to the grave, he can look forward 
with but little confidence or satisfaction ; to such a man, if he 
should have one hundred pounds clear, that is, after paying 
all his expences of removal, &c., America decidedly offers in- 
ducements very superior to those afforded by this country. 
Such a father would there feel himself relieved from a load of 
anxiety, the weight of which upon his spirits, and its influence 
in repressing his exertions, he is perhaps himself scarcely 
aware of, till he feels the difference by comparison when he 
has shaken it off in the New World ; — but still to every pro- 
posed emigrant, even of these classes, I would say, that he 
must not expect to find either the country full of gold, or its 
inhabitants as agreeable or as sociable as the perhaps unequal- 
led people of England. He must prepare too for many pri- 
vations, and should previously have the mind of his family, 
particularly that of the mother of his children, so entirely in 
unison vvith his own, that they can all have the fortitude and 
good sense necessai-y to bear under the numerous privations 
they will certainly be subjected to, keeping in mind the sub- 
stantial advantages they will enjoy, and setting off present 
evil against their future and increasing prosperity, which, in 
such a country, with a soil yet uncultivated, and in the in- 
fancy of its resources, may be considered as almost insured to 
them.' 

6*. Artists, ^'c. 

* The artist,' savs Fearon, ' may succeed, but the probability 
is that he will not do so. I know instances on both sides, 
where perhaps equal talent has been possessed. A Mr. Shiels, 
a portrait-painter, who was a fellow-passenger of mine in the 
Washington, has been eminently successful in New York; 
Mr. , who arrived about the same time, has been un- 
able to procure his boarding expences. Generally, I should 
not anticipate, judging from the character and habits of the 
people, that, at least, the superior artist would find it to his 
advantage to emigrate. The lawyer and the doctor, and. 



UNITED STATES. 543 

turning to another class, the derk and the shopman, will find 
no opening in America.' 

Several have succeeded well in the business of engraving, 
and of piano-forte making; nor is there much doubt of the 
success of any ai'tist who joins ingenuity with steadiness and 
perseverance. Several instances of great success might be 
quoted; but such cases occur also in all civilized European 
countries where circumstances are favourable to the develope- 
raent of talent. 

A: literary man will not meet with any encouragement, the 
American library being imjiorted, arid newspaper editors hav- 
ing no inducement to occupy their talents upoa any topics 
beyond extracts from English papers, advertisements, and 
shipping intelligence. 

* Lawyers,' says the writer quoted above, * are as common 
here as paupers are in England. Indeed, foi* those friends I 
see no kind of opening. Prqfessmnal men literally swarm in 
the United States. An anecdote is told of a gentleman walk- 
ing in Broadway : a friend passing, he called " Doctor," and 
immediately sixteen persons turned round to answer to the 
name. This is even more characteristic of lawyers. At al- 
most every private door, cellar, or boarding-house, a tin plate 
is displayed, bearing the inscription " Attorney at Law." 
Clerks are not in demand in this or any other occupation. 
There are here no very large concerns, and most men are ca- 
pable of attending to their own business. A shopman or 
clerk, who would receive in London his board and a salary of 
from 30/. to lOOZ. sterling per annum, would here experience 
great difficulty in gaining a situation ; and if fortunate enough 
to obtain one, he would not receive more than from 3r> to 7 
dollars per week, exclusive of, board and lodging. The causes 
which generate so great a number of " legal friend*," lie be- 
yond the sources of my penetration. Perhaps we may date 
the frequency of litigation to the intricacy of the profession, 
which is bottomed on English practice ; while the cheapness 
of college instruction, and the general diffusion of moderate 
wealth among mechanics and tradesmen, enable them to gra- 
tify their vanity by giving their sons a learned education 



544 VIEW OF THE, &c. 

This also opens the door to them for an appointment ; andy 
by the way, the Americans are great place-hunters."' 

From the tenor of these remarks, it is evident that the poor 
man will be most benefited by emigration. Man does not 
transplant easily. In the land of his nativity he acquires as- 
sociations, and forms connexions that are pleasing and profit- 
able. The surrender of these advantages requires great 
resolution, and, where hope is blasted, his disappointment 
must be severe. The emigrant will, no doubt, find much ig- 
norance, illiberality, and selfishness mixed up in the American 
character : but on the other hand, he will find a country pos- 
sessed of the most enlightened civil and political advantages ; 
a people reaping the full reward of their own labours ; a peo- 
ple not paying tythes, and not subjected to heavy taxation 
without representation ; a people with a small national debt ; 
a people without spies and informers ; a people without an 
enormous standing army ; a people in possession of an extent 
of territory capable of sustaining an increase of millions and 
tens of millions of population ; and a people rapidly advancing 
towards national wealth and greatness. 



BRITISH 



NORTH AMERICA. 



sa>C:'QJ!;^«SSB 



npHOSE parts of North America which still belong to Great 
Britain are extensive, and of considerable importance, 
though so thinly peopled, and in such a disadvantageous cli- 
mate, that they sink into insignificance when compared with 
the great and flourishing colony belonging to Spain, or with 
the territories of the United States. 

Divisions. — The chief of these possessions is Canada, now 
divided into two provinces, called Upper and Lower Canada, 
the former being the western division, on the north of the 
great lakes or sea of Canada ; while the lower division is on 
the river St. Lawrence towards the east, and contains Quebec^^ 
the capital, and the chief city of our remaining settlements. 

On the east of Canada, to the south of the river St. Law- 
rence, is Nova Scotia; which in 1784 was divided into two 
provinces, that of Nova Scotia in the south, and New Bruns- 
wick in the north. 

What is called New Britain comprehends the most northern 
parts towards Hudson's bay, and the coast of Labrador. The 
large island of Newfoundland ; that called Cape Breton ; and 
the neighbouring isle St. John ; complete the chief denomina- 
tions of British territory. The regions around Hudson's bay, 
with Labrador and Greenland, are, from the intense severity 

^ Z 



546 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

of the climate, declared free by nature. The present short 
description shall therefore only comprise Canada, and the 
other British provinces in the south, which form actual pos- 
sessions or colonies. 



,-! 



CANADA. 

Extent. 'pHIS country is computed to extend from the gulf 
of St. Lawrence, and the isle of Anticosti, in the 
east, to the lake of Winnipeg in the west, or from long. 64^ 
deg. to 97 deg. west from London, 33 degrees, which in that 
latitude may be about 1200 geographical miles. The breadth, 
from the lake of Erie in the south, or lat. 43 deg., may extend 
to lat. 49 deg., or 360 geographical miles ; but the medial 
breadth is not above 200. 

Climate and Seasons. — Mr. Weld, who is a great admirer 
of ice, depicts the Canadian climate in the most favourable 
colours, and would persuade us that, though considerably 
further to the north, it is at least equal to that of New Eng- 
land. But even by his account the extremes of heat and cold 
are amazing; the thermometer in July and August rising to 
96, while in winter the mercury freezes. The snow begins in 
November ; and in January the frost is so intense that it is 
impossible to be out of doors for any time without the risk of 
what is called a frost-bite, which endangers the limb : and the 
warm inter\-als only increase the sensation and the jeopardy. 
But winter, as in Petersburg, is tlie season of amusement; 
and the sledges, drawn by one or two horses, afford a pleasant 
and speedy conveyance. Several stoves are placed in the hall, 
whence flues pass to the apartments; and there are double 
windows and doors. On going abroad, the whole body is co- 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 54.7 

vered with furs, except the eyes and nose. In May the thaw 
generally comes suddenly, the ice on the river bursting with 
the noise of cannon, and its passage to the sea is terrific, espe- 
cially when a pile of ice crashes against a rock. Spring is 
summer, and vegetation instantaneous. The month of Sep- 
tember is one of the most pleasant. 

Mr. Gray, a recent traveller in this country, gives the follow- 
ing picturesque and amusing account of a Canadian winter: — 

'A Canadian winter is truly a subject of curiosity to the 
natives of Britain, or of any of the southern countries of Eu- 
rope. It presents a view of nature perfectly new, and a va- 
riety of phenomena so highly interesting, that they cannot fail 
to arrest the attention of any one at all conversant in natural 
philosophy. 

' In Canada there cannot well be said to be more than two 
seasons of the year, summer and winter. The earth hath 
scarcely laid aside her mantle of snow, when you begin to feel 
tlie force of summer heat; and although the weather in Sep- 
tember is mild and pleasant, it partakes more of the summer 
tlian of the autumn of temperate climates. The season of ve- 
getation seems kindly prolonged, till surprised in a manner at 
once by the return of winter, without much of what may be 
called autumn weather. Frost is tielt in October; but the 
^un still retains enough of power to make the weather, during 
the day, tolerably warm. During the month of November 
the frost becomes daily more severe, and snow begins to fall. 

' There is something very awful and terrific in a Canadian 
snow storm. A heavy fall of snow is generally accompanied 
by a violent gale of wind, which driving along the snow Avith 
immense velocity, and forming a thousand eddies and turn- 
ings, according to the inequalities of the surface, and resist- 
ance consequent thereon, you are able to form an idea of the 
velocity of the wind — it becomes, as it were, visible. The 
most severe snow storms they experience in Caaada come 
from the north-east, the frozen regions of' Hudson's bay an^ 
Labrador. 

' The range of the thermometer in Canada is very extensive. 
The heat in summer runs into as great an extreme as the col4 



548 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

in winter. The range, during the last twelve months, has 
been no less than 120 degrees; and what is not a little sur- 
prising, it has reached 60 degrees pi'ecisely, on each side of 
the freezing point (32). In summer the thermometer rose to 
92, and in winter it fell to 28 below zero. I have been told, 
that the cold has been known in this country to freeze mer- 
cury, the thermometer having fallen below 40 under zero. 

*The effects of frost in this country are with difficulty 
guarded against, and are really in themselves very curious. I 
made an experiment which, to most people, will appear very 
surprising. I burnt my hand with a cold iron. This may 
seem incredible ; but a little explanation will convince you of 
the truth of what I have asserted. 

' In one of those very cold mornings we had in the montji 
of January, when the thermometer had fallen near 60 degrees 
below the freezino- point, I put my hand to a piece of iro7i 
that had been exposed to the frost in the open air all night. 
At first, I felt the sensation arising from extreme cold ; m a 
few seconds I felt the sensation of heat ; and it soon became 
so strong, and so painful, that I was as glad to quit my hold 
as if it had been a hot iron. Indeed, I found that I had kept 
it too long, because the part that had been in contact blistered 
in the same manner it would have done had it been a hot iron, 
and it was cured in the same way. No surgeon in Englandj,* 
had he been called in, could have suspected that it was not' 
the effect of coming in contact with a hot iron. In truth, heat 
was the cause of the wound; and you will readily allow that I 
am correct, when I have explained to you a few circumstances. 

'Burning by a hot iron is produced by the heat, or what is 
technically called caloric, pa.ssing in such quantity, and with 
such rapidity, into the part in contact with thp iron, that the 
continuity and arrangement of the pnrt is destroyed. Burning 
with a cold iron arises from the heat passing in such quantity, 
and with such rapidity, out of the part of the body in contact 
with the cold iron, as to produce the same effect. Heat, in 
both cases, is the cause ; and its going into the body from the 
iron, or into the irony?-o;« the body, does not alter the nature 
of the effect. 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 549 

* There is another effect very frequently produced by cold 
in this country, which bears no analogy (as in the preceding 
example) to any thing produced by external heat; and a 
dreadful effect it is — I mean frost-bitten. 

' When the Aveather is very cold, particularly when accom- 
panied by a smart wind, instances of people he'mg J'rost-l)iite7i 
frequently occur. Not a season passes without some of the 
sentinels being frost-bitten on their posts. Sometimes their 
hands and face, sometimes their feet, are affected ; and a mor- 
tification of the part generally follows, if the proper remedy is 
not applied in time. The remedy will seldom be applied if 
you are attacked in the dark, which is often the case with 
those who travel at night, as well as with sentinels. Their 
OWN feelings do not inform them of the presence of the enemy ; 
and they are not likely, in the dark, to have him discovered 
by other people. He insidiously makes a breach; and, if he 
can keep his ground but for a short time, it is in vain after- 
wards to think of dislodging him. In the towns, during the 
day, there is less danger, because you will be stopped by the 
first person who oKserves the symptoms. This is readily and 
easily done, as the part frost-bitten becomes white, while the 
rest of the face is very red. 

' In so critical a moment, people do not stand on any cere- 
mony, as you may suppose. They know you are not con- 
scious of your situation ; and they also know, that before they 
could convince you that you are frost-bitten, and on the point 
of losing your nose perhaps, it might actually be too late to 
apply the remed}^ they instantly take a handful of snoAV, and 
either rub the part themselves, or make you do it. 

' It certainly is enough to startle a stranger, to see a person, 
perfectly unknown to you, come running up, with a handful 
of snow, calling out, " Voter nose, Sir, — ]//our nose, — you are 
frost-bitten ;"" and without further ceremony, either themselves 
rubbing it without mercy, or making you do so.' 

Rivers. — The great river St. Lawrence has been already 
described in the general view of North America. The Utawas 
is the most important of all its tributary streams, issuing from 
various lakes, towards the centre of Canada ; its waters are of 



550 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

a bright greenish colour, while the St. Lawrence is muddy. 
Many rivers of smaller consequence flow into the river St. 
Lawrence from the north. 

Lakes. — The large lakes have been also already mentioned : 
there are many others of which the enumeration would be te- 
dious; and some difficulty arises from the want of any precise 
boundary in the north of Canada. 

Mountains.— l^ov have the mountains been examined by 
any geologist, who could indicate their ranges or illustrate 
their structure. The chief ridge seems to be in the northern 
part of the province, in a direction south-west and north-east, 
giving source to the many streams which flow south-east, 
while a ^ew pass to Hudson's bay. But there are many 
mountains between Quebec and the sea, while towards the 
Utawas only a few are scattered, and to the south-west there 
are ample plains. 

Zoology. — The chief singularities in zoology are the moose, 
the beaver, and some other animals, for which Mr. Pennant''s 
Arctic Zoology may be consulted. The rein-deer appears in 
the northern part, and the puma and lynx are not unknown. 
Both the Canadas are much infested with rattlesnakes. The 
humming bird is not unconnnon at Quebec. 

Mineralogy. — The mineralogy isof liltie consequence; and 
even iron seems to be rare. There are said to be lead mines 
which produce some silver; and it is probable that copper 
may be found, as it appears in the south-west of lake Supe- 
rior. Coal abounds in the island of Cape Breton, but this 
valuable mineral has not been discovered in Canada. If so 
wide a territory were properly examined by skilful naturalists, 
which ought always to be a primary care with every govern- 
ment, for the most advantageous position of settlements, and 
that every advantage may be secured, it is highly probable 
that important discoveries might be made. Little is said of 
warm springs, or mineral waters. 

SoU and AgricioUure. — The face of the country is generally 
mountainous and woody; but there are savannas, and plains 
of great beauty, chiefly towards Upper Canada. In the lower 
province the soil mostly consists of a loose blackish earth of 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 551 

ten or twelve inches, incumbent on cold clay. This thin 
mould is, however, very fertile, and manure was seldom or 
never used by the French settlers ; but of late marl has been 
employed, and is found in considerable quantities on the shores 
of the river St. Lawrence, A little tobacco is cultivated for 
private use, with many culinary vegetables, and considerable 
crops of grain, wheat being reckoned among the exports : a 
kind of vine is indigenous, but the grapes are sour, and little 
'larger than currants. Ras])berries are also indigenous; and 
there are good currants and gooseberries. A great variety of 
trees is Ibund in the forests ; beech, oak, elm, asli, pine, syca- 
more, chesnut, walnut. Sec. The sugar maple tree also 
abounds, and the sugar is generally used in the country. Of 
this tree there are two kinds, the swamp and the mountain 
maple. Mr. Weld points out some diificulties in the tenures 
of land, which ought to be removed, as in such a climate there 
is no occasion for a barrier against colonization. 

Population. — The population of Canada, at the time it came 
into the possession of the British in 1759-60, amounted to 
75,600 souls, as appears from general Murray's report to the 
British government, immediately after the conquest. At that 
time the extensive country now called Upper Canada was not 
inhabited by any Europeans. At present the two Canadas 
contain at least 400,000 inhabitants : of these, Lower Canada 
contains about 240,000. The descendants of the old Cana- 
dians constitute at least nine-tenths of the population of Lower 
Canada. In Upper Canada, the population amounts to about 
160,000. These are all British, at least they speak English, 
and are governed entirely by the laws of England, both in 
civil and criminal matters; and in questions relative to real 
I property, as well as in questions relative to personal property. 

From the preceding statement of the population, it is evi- 
dent that the increase in Lower Canada i'or these last fifty 
"■ years has been very great; it has, in fact, nearly tripled. In 
Upper Canada the increase has been very rapid, as several 
years elapsed after the conquest before any part of Upper 
Canada was settled or cultivated. Thirty years ago. Upper 
Canada was nearly a continued forest; — that a population of 



552 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

160,000 sliould in that time accumulate, is a proof that the 
country and climate are propitious. 

The Canadas owe much of their increase of population to 
emigrations from the United States of America, and from 
Europe. These emigrations, to a greater or less extent, take 
place every year. The emigrants generally prefer settling in 
Upper, rather than in Lower Canada, as well those from the 
United States as those from Europe. There are man}^ rea- 
sons for the preference given to Upper Canada, which will 
continue to draw a great augmentation to the natural increase 
of the population and wealth — whilst the Canadian French 
population will <inly increase in the ordinary ratio. 

Manners and Cusioms. — The Canadians are but poor 
farmers. Indeed, they are generally so, in more senses of the 
word than one. They are accused of indolence, and an aver- 
sion to experiment, or the introduction of any changes in their 
ancient habits and customs, and probably with reason : — it is 
the characteristic of the peasantry of all countries. But one of 
the principal causes of the poverty, not only of the Canadian 
farmer, but also of all ranks amongst them, is the existence of 
an old Trench law, by which the property of either father or 
mother is, on the death of either, equally divided amongst 
then- children. Notiiing seems more consonant to the clearest 
principles of justice than such a law; yet it is assuredly preju- 
dicial to society. 

In this country (or indeed in any other) an estate, with a 
good house upon it, convenient and appropriate offices, and a 
good stock of cattle, may be well cultivated, and support, cre- 
ditably, a numerous faniily. If the head of the family dies, 
leaving half a dozen children, the estate and whole property is 
divided amongst them, which happens here every day. Each 
of the sons takes possession of his own lot, builds a house, 
marries, and has a family. The value of tiie whole property 
is very much lessened. He who gets the lot with the dwell- 
ing-house and offices, which served for the whole estate, gets 
what is out of all proportion to the means he now has of em- 
ployirig thfm : he can neither occupy them, nor keep them in 
repair. The other lots are generally too small to supply the 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 553 

cxpences of a family, or enable their owners to support that 
state of respectability in the country which their father did; 
so that, instead of one respectable and Avealthy head of a fa- 
mily, who could protect and assist the younger branches, 
giving them a good education, and putting them forward in 
the world, you have half a dozen poor dispirited creatures, 
who have not energy or power to improve either their lands or 
themselves. Without great industry, and some capital, new 
lands cannot be brought into cultivation, nor can those already 
cleared be made very productive. 

The French law supposes that matrimony is a co-partner- 
ship; and that, consequently, on the death of the wife, the 
children have a right to demand from their father the half of 
his property, as heirs to their mother. If the wife's relations 
are not on good terms with the father, a thing that sometimes 
happens, they find it no difficult matter to induce the children 
to demand a partagc, or division, which often occasions the 
total ruin of the father, because he loses credit, equal, at least, 
to -liis loss of property, and often to a greater extent. His 
powers are diminished, and his children still have a claim on 
him for support. 

One effect of this law, and not one of the least material, is, 
that the affection between parents and children is likely to be 
destroyed by it: and, in fact, it is remarked, that in this coun- 
try the instances of unfeeling conduct between parents and 
children are extremely frequent, and a spirit of htigation is 
excited amongst them. 

The wife beino- by marriage invested with a rig-ht to half 
the husband's property, and being rendered independent of 
him, is perhaps the remote cause that the fair sex have such 
influence in France ; and in Canada, it is well known, that a 
great deal of consequence, and even an air of superiority to 
the husband, is assumed by them. 

The Fnglish and American settlers in Canada preserve the 
manners and customs of their respective countries. A great 
proportion of the inhabitants of Upper Canada are natives of 
Scotland ; who, by their habits of industry, economy, and perse- 
verence, seem peculiarly fitted for improving this fine country. 
24 4 A 



654 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

When the navigation of the St. Lawrence becomes imprac- 
ticable, little business is done by the merchants, who then ap- 
propriate a considerable part of their time to amusements. It 
is necessary to do something to give a little variety to the 
sameness of a six months' winter. They have parties of plea- 
sure in town, and parties of pleasure in the country, in which 
are dancing, music, and the social enjoyments of conviviality. 

In winter, when wheel caniages can no longer be used, a 
sort of sledge, called a cariole, is substituted. It passes over 
the snow without sinking deep. It is placed on what they call 
runners, which resemble in form the irons of a pair of skaits, 
and rise up in front in the same manner, and for the same 
purposes. The cariole is generally from nine to twelve inches 
above the snow. Some, called hlirJi runners, are about 
eighteen inches The body of the cariole varies in shape, ac- 
coi'ding to the fancy of the owner. It is sometimes like the 
body of a phaeton, sometimes hke a chair or gig, sometimes 
like a vi^-a-vis, and sometimes^ like a family coach or chariot. 
The cariole, in short, is the name for all sorts of vehicles used 
in winter, from a market cart up to a state coach. The gene- 
rality of them are light, open carriages, drawn by one horse. 
The snow, after being trodden on for some time, becomes 
compact enough to bear the horse, and gives very little resist- 
ance to the cariole. It is, however, a very unpleasant convey- 
ance, from the constant succession of inequalities which are 
formed in the snow by the carioles. These inequalities the 
Canadians call caliots (from the French word cahoter, to Jolt), 
and they certainly are very well named, for a traveller is jolted 
as if he crossed a field with very deep furrows and high narrow 
ridges, 

' In all countries,'' says Gray, ' people pass their leisure 
hours pretty much alike; that is, they dedicate them to 
amusement. In Canada, as most of their whiter hours are 
leisure hours, there is, of course, some ingenuity necessary to 
give such variety to their amusements as may prevent them 
from becoming insipid by frequent repetition. Hence, in 
Quebec and Montreal, to the regidar town parties are added 
irregular country parties. Pic-nic feasts, where every one 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 655 

carries with him a ready-dressed dish, are very common ; and 
as the place of rendezvous is generally a few miles out of town, 
the ladies and gentlemen have the plm,sure of a little carioUng 
before dinner; the roads, it is true, are often abominably bad, 
being a constant succession of caliots, in which they are jolted 
most unmercifully ; not to say any thing of carioles being very 
frequently upset, and their contents, ladies, gentlemen, soup, 
poultry, or roast beef, tumbled into the snow, to the no small 
amusement of the rest of the party. It is also any thing but 
excessively pleasant^ after having dined, danced, supped, and 
passed the evening in festive glee, enlivened by the song and 
the catch, to drive home in the middle of the night, let the 
wind blow, and the snow drift, as much as they please. Be- 
sides, there sometimes come on such dreadful storms, that 
neither man nor horse can shew their face to them. The 
consequence is, that the party remain all night ; the fiddlers 
again strike up the merry dance, and the whist players cut for 
partners; what cannot be cured must be endured. Daylight 
comes at last, and enables the party to take the road home- 
^vard without the danger of losing their way, which most pro- 
bably would have been the case with some of them had they 
attempted it in the course of the night. The little hardships, 
disasters, or inconveniences, of these country parties, give a 
zest, however, to the more elegant amusements of the town.' 

When it is necessary to deviate from the beaten track, or to 
cross the woods or fields, snow-shoes are used. They are 
made of a kind of net-work, fixed on a frame, shaped like a 
boy's paper kite ; they are about two feet long, and eighteen 
inches br>)ad, and therefore take in so much of the surface of 
the snow, that they sink but a very few inches. The military 
in Canada are all provided with snow-shoes, and are marched 
«ut on them, that it may be no novelty in case of their taking 
the field in winter. For the saiuc reason they are sometimes 
encamped amongst the sik)\v. 

Could the husbandman, the labourer, and all those whose 
trade or profession in Canada lead them to work in the open 
air, follow their occupations all the year round, it certainly 
would be of great advantage to the country, and to the people. 



55G BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

At present, a great pi-oportion of the people are obliged to 
live twelve mon,ths on six months'" work, which implies their 
receiving double wages. This is certainly the case ; wages 
are very high ; 4.?., 5-?., to 6s. a day are given, according to 
the kind of work, and merit of the workman. The idleness of 
their winter life has other bad effects. It generates habits 
prejudicial to exertion ; so that, even in summer, they do not 
perform so much work as men who are in habits of industiy 
all the year round ; and the desire thev evince for spirituous 
liquors is strong and ruinous. Yet, under all these disadvan- 
tages, Canada, as well as Russia, may become a great, trading, 
and populous country. 

Language. — The French language is still retained by the 
descendants of the French settlers in Lower Canada. It is 
evidently the intercRl of the British government, as well as of 
the Canadians, that the English language only shoidd be 
spoken ; but the means of effeciing this desirable change have 
been strangely neglected. English schools have indeed been 
established in some parts of the country ; but few or none of 
the Canadians have ever sent their ciiildren to them. 
~' Toxcns. — Samuel de Champlain, who founded Quebec in the 
year 1608, deserves immortal honours for the judiciousness of 
his choice. It ever has been considered, and prol)ably ever 
will be cons'id^red, as the capital of the Canadas. It certanily 
is the key of the river St. Lawrence, which contracts suddenly 
opposite to the city, being onlv about a mile in breadth ; and 
widens immediately above the city. The grand battery of 
Quebec is opposite to the narrowest part of the river, and is 
an exten.4ve range of very heavy ordnance, which, if properly 
served, must destroy any vessels which might attempt to pass, 
or come near enough to injure the town. The river opposite 
to Quebec is about 100 feet in depth, and affords good an^ 
chorage : for a considerable way above Quebec it is navigable 
for ships of any size. 

The site of Quebec seems to have been destined by nature 
for the capital of an empire. Above the island of Orleans, 
the St. Lawrence' expands, and a bason is formed by the 
junction of a river called the St. Charles, which takes its 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 557 

course througli a plain, separated from the great river by a 
ridge of high land, about nine miles in length, from a place 
called cape Rouge, to cape Diamond. The general breadth 
of tJiis ridge is from one to two miles. Cape Diamond is a 
bold promontory, advancing into the river St. Lawrence, of 
an elevation of 350 feet above the river, nearly perpendicular ; 
and the bank the whole way to cape Rouge is. nearly of the 
same elevaticm, rising from the river almost perpendicular: 
the ridge slopes towards the north till it reaches the valley 
through which the river St. Charles runs. This ridge of land 
has evei'y appearance of having been an .island, surrounded by 
the great river. 

On the north-east, or lower end of the peninsula, Quebec is 
situated; and tlie line of its fortifications runs from the river 
St. Charles, across, to the top of the bank which overlooks the 
St. Lawrence; the distance is about half a mile: and from the 
line of fortification to the point of^cape Diamond the distance 
is about a quarter of a mile : within this space stands the city 
of Quebec. It consists of an Upper and Lower Town : the 
Upper Town is much elevated above the Lower Town, and 
separated from it by a line of steep rocks. Formerly the river 
St. Lawrence, at high water, came up close to these rocks ; 
but as the tide rises and falls here about fifteen feet, it gave 
an opportunity of taking from the river a considerable space ; 
wharfs* Avere built at low water mark, and even at some places 
beyond it, and the intermediate ground filled up to such a 
height that it remained dry at high water. LTpon this situa- 
tion streets were laid out, and houses built. They are of con- 
siderable breadth, and the houses are large and commodious ; 
those next the river have attached to them very extensive 
warehouses, and vessels come close to the wharfs to discharge 
their cargoes. 

The Lower Town is not included in the fortifications, but 
the passes to it are commanded bv the batteries in the line of 
fortification which surrounds the Upper Town ; so that the 
approach by land to the Lower Town will hardly be attempted 
b}' an enemy. The communication from the Lower Town to 
the Upper Town is by a winding street ; at the top of which 



558 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

is a fortified gate. At the entrance of this gate is a large area, 
in which is situated the house (dignified with the title of a pa- 
lace) in which the bishops of Quebec formerly resided : at 
present it is used for public offices, and accommodates the su- 
preme council and house of assembly. Beyond the palace is 
the grand battery. To the left, not far from the entrance of 
the gate, is another area or square ; and on the side next the 
river is the Chateau de St. Louis, in which the governor re- 
sides. Opposite to the chateau, on the other side of the 
square, is the English church, a very elegant building; and 
the court house, where elegance is not so conspicuous. On 
the north side of the square is a very handsome building, 
erected for, and used as a tavern, hotel, and assembly room. 
From the area of the market-place different streets diverge, 
leading to the different gates of the city. 

There are three nunneries in Quebec, the Hotel Dieu, the 
UrsuHnes, and the General Hospital. The nuns here are not 
so useless, however, as those in the south of Europe; they 
employ themselves in teaciiing young girls reading and needle- 
work. No where do the Roman catholics and protestants live 
on better terms than here. They go to each other's mar- 
riages, baptisms, and burials witliout scruple ; nay, they have 
even been known to make use of the same church for religious 
worship, one party using it in the forenoon, and the other in 
the afternoon. The monasteries are mostly extinct, and many 
of the catholic clergy are distinguished for mtelligence and 
liberality. 

There arc few objects of curiosity in Quebec. The houses 
are generally of stone; small, ugly, and inconvenient. A 
large garrison is maintained, but 5000 soldiers would be ne- 
cessary to man the works. The inhabitants are supposed to 
be 10,000, about two-thirds being French ; and the presence 
of the governor, courts, and garrison, conspire to render it gay 
and lively. 

The Upper Town of Quebec being very elevated, enjoys 
fine air, and a most commanding view of the surrounding 
country. ' I have seen most of the fine views, of Europe,"" 
writes Mr. Gray; 'and I can safely say, they do iwt surpass. 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 560 

perhaps they do not equal, that from the flagstaff of Quebec 
on cape Diamond, The majestic St. Lawrence under your 
feet, receiving the waters of the river St. Charles, and forming 
the bason of Quebec, from three to four miles across ; — further 
on you see the river dividing itself into two branches, forming 
the beautiful island of New Orleans;— on the opposite side of 
the great river, a finely wooded country, terminating at point 
Levi, conceals the course and bed of one of the branches of 
the river; — the island of Orleans, the falls of Montmorency, 
strike the observer; and the villages of Beauport, Charle- 
bourg, and Lorctte, appear at a distance, and render the 
woods in which they are embosomed more interesting. The 
eye follows the northern branch of the St. Lawrence till it is 
lost amongst the distant mountams. To the soutiiward you 
look over a level country for upwards of sixty miles, till the 
view is bounded by mountains. This extensive tract is still in 
a great measure in a state of nature ; — nothing to be seen but 
the stately forest in all its majesty. It is difficult to imagine a 
more happy blending of art and nature; — villages, country 
houses, cottages, corn fields, — are combined with primeval 
woods, fine rivers, beautiful islands, magnificent waterfalls, 
towering hills, and lofty mountains.' 

Commerce has made, and will continue, Quebec as the first 
city in the Canadas ; perhaps it may become the first in Ame- 
rica, for it has a much more extensive communication with the 
interior of America than the new city of Washington, or any 
other city in America. Neither the Patomak, Chesapeake, 
Delaware, nor Hudson's river, are at all to be compared to the 
St. Lawrence, either in magnitude or extent of back country. 
It is worthy of notice, that a person may go from Quebec to 
New Orleans, at the mouth of the Mississippi, by water the 
whole way, except about the space of one mile from the source 
of the Illinois river, to the source of a river which falls into 
lake Michigan. 

Montreal is situated on an island ; but the island is so large 
in proportion to the water which surroiuids it, that you are not 
sensible of its insularity. A branch of the river IJtawas, which 
falls into the St. Lawrence above Montreal, takes a northerly 



560 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

direction, and forms the island, which is about 30 miles in 
length by 10 in breadth. The city of Montreal is situated 
near the upper end of it, on the south side of the island, at 
the distance of about 180 miles from Quebec. 

Montreal was once surrounded by a wall, which served to 
defend it against any sudden attack from the Indians ; but as 
this is now no longer to be dreaded, the wall is about to be 
removed, that the town may be enlarg-ed with the greater fa- 
cility. The St. Lawrence comes close to the town on the 
south side, where there is a great depth of water, but \essels 
have much difficulty to get at it. 

Montreal may be said to be a handsome town. Its streets 
are regular and airy, and contain many handsome and commo- 
dious houses. It is fully as large and as populous as Quebec, 
containing about 10,000 people, the great mass of whom are 
Canadians. Its suburbs, too, are extensive. It has suffered 
greatly from fire at different times, and the precautions taken 
to prevent the spreading of conflagration exceed even those of 
Quebec ; for, in addition to the roofs being generally covered 
with tinned plates, the windows have outside shutters, covered 
with plate iron. 

The island of Montreal is wholly in a state of cultivation ; 
and it is surrounded by a countiy generally cultivated. What 
adds much to its consequence is, its being situated near the 
emhouchure of several rivers, which bring down from the coun- 
tries through which they flow a great deal of very valuable 
produce. 

Although the St. Lawrence is navigable for large vessels as 
high up as Montreal, yet the navigation above Quebec is at- 
tended with so many inconveniences, that in general it is found 
more advantageous for the vessels to stop at Quebec, and for 
such of their cargoes as come from Montreal, to be brought 
down in river craft. 

The chief trade is in furs. The north-vvest company con- 
sists of a number of merchants associated for the purposes of 
trading with the Indians in furs. They formed the associa- 
tion in the year 1784; and have carried on the trade with 
great spirit and success. Those who manage the concerns of 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 661 

the company reside in Montreal ; they receive a compensation 
for their trouble, besides their share of the profits of the con- 
cern. From Montreal they send up the country iarge quanti- 
ties of goods, to be bartered with the Indians for furs. For 
the conveyance of these goods, and for bringing back the furs, 
they have employed, generally, about 50 canoes, and upwards 
of 1000 people ; such as canoe-men (stvled voijageurs j, guides, 
clerks. Sic. The capital employed m this trade, in goods alone, 
is upwards of 100,000/. 

At the grand egress of the river St. Lawrence, on the lake 
Ontario, near what is called the lake of a thousand islands, 
stands the town of K'lnfrston, more remarkable from its position 
than any other circumstance. The forts of Niagara and De- 
troit belong to the southern side of the boundary. The little 
town of Trois Rivieres, or Three Rivers, stands between 
Quebec and Montreal, and is chiefly remarkable for the resort 
of the savages : but though it contains little more than 250 
houses, it is considered as the third town in British America. 
Sorelle was founded in 1787 for the American loyalists, but 
contains only 100 scattered houses: it is at the distance of 
fifteen leagues from Montreal towards Quebec; and the chief 
business is ship-building. 

York, the capital of Upper Canada, is a small pleasant town, 
containing a good many frame houses ; but the land is rather 
low and unhealthy in its neighbourhood. Newark contains 
about 500 inhabitants, and many of the buildings are hand- 
some, being composed of brick and stone. It has two churches, 
a jail, and academy; six taverns, and about 20 dry-goods 
stores, where every article can be had on as good terms as in 
Montreal. The fort here is garrisoned with 500 men, of the 
4<lst regiment; and the remainder of the regiment are distri- 
buted along the banks of the lake. Queensiozcn contains 
about 300 inhabitants : it has six stores and several taverns, 
and a considerable trade along the lakes. Maiden, at the west 
end of lake Erie, consists of about 100 houses, and has a gar- 
rison, and a great trade with the Indian tribes. 

Manufactures. — A variety of articles for domestic purposes, 
which used formerly to be imported from Britain, are now 

4 B 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 



manufactured in Canada ; particularly stoves, bar-iron, and 
cookin'ij utensils ; also leather, hats, soap, and candles, Ca- 
nada has always been famous for the manufacture of snuff; 
and a quantity of sugar, and coarse linens and woollens for 
home consumption, are also manufactured. 

Commerce. — Wheat Is the most considerable article of ex- 
portation from Canada; upwards of one million bushels have 
been exported in one year ; not half thiit quantity, however, 
was exported on an average of hve years ending in 1805. 
The next articles of consequence in the list of exports are, 
flour and biscuit. The average amount of flour for five 
years, ending 1805, was 19,822 barrels at 42*. Qd. per barrel, 
m,\9M lis. 6fZ. 

The fur trade of Canada, in point of value and of import- 
ance to Great Britain, is nearly equal to any other branch of 
the Canada trade. The duty paid in England on furs and 
skins, imported from Canada, amounted, per annum, on an 
average of four years, ending 1806, to 22,053/. The lumber 
trade is of more real value to Britain, because timber is of 
more real use in society. The corn trade is, perhaps, more 
valuable to the Canadians than the fur trade; but the trade in 
furs employs a great number of people, and a large capital. 

The north-west company, who have entirely monopolized to 
themselves the fur trade, are a self-created company, not ac- 
knowledged by government, but who have united their capital 
and exertions for their mutual benefit. As they have at pre- 
sent no competitors in the north-west territory, they have the 
trade in their own power in a great measure : but they are 
obliged to pay a considerable price for the skins, because the 
Indians have been so long accustomed to the trade, that they 
have long ago learned that a beaver skin is worth more than a 
two-penny knife, or a six-penny trinket. 

When the Berlin and Milan decrees threatened to shut all 
the ports of Europe against Britain, the government took 
some pains to introduce the cultivation of hemp into Canada, 
a measure which promises to become very successful. But 
the produce of the forests are articles of the greatest import- 
ance amongst the exports of Canada. Staves are exported to 



BRITISH NORTH .VMERICA. 563 

a great amount, and some very handsome ships are annually 
built by contract at Quebec and Montreal. A quantity of 
jfish, and pot and pearl ashes, is also exported ; but as has 
been observed, the export of furs is of the most advantage. 
Besides the north-west company, another comj)any which 
trades to the south-west, and is generally termed the INIichili- 
mackinack company, has been lately established. The Hud- 
son's bay company conduct their business on a very )iarrow 
scale, and with little benefit to the public, which has induced 
both Mr. Burke and Mr. IMackenzie to condemn the monopoly 
they hold. The latter gentleman has given a most interesting 
account of this curious trade. 

The total exports from Quebec alone in 1808 amounted to 
895,949/., and the number of vessels cleared from the custom- 
house was 334, equal. to 70,275 tons, and navigated by 3330 
seamen. In the year 1806 tlie tonnage was only 33,996; 
which clearly shows the natural amelioration of the country, 
arising from the embargo in America. 

The principal imports are .spirits, wines, tobacco, sugar, salt, 
and provisions for the troops. Manufactured articles are also 
imported to a great amount from England. 

Religion. — The religion is the Roman catholic ; but the 
British settlers follow- their own modes of worship. There are 
only twelve clergymen of the church of England, including 
the bishop of Quebec; while the catholic clergy are 126. 

Government. — By an act passed in 1791, a legislative coun- 
cil and an assembly are appointed for each of the provinces of 
Upper and Lower Canada, having power to make laws with 
the consent of the governor; but the king may declare his 
dissent at any time within two years after receiving any bill. 
The legislative council is to consist of seven members for Up- 
per Canada, and fifteen for the Lower province, summoned by 
the governor under the king's authority, and nominated du- 
ring their lives, except forfeited by an absence of four years, 
or by paying allegiance to a foreign power. The house of 
assembly is to consist of fifty members from Lower Canada, 
and sixteen from Upper Canada, chosen by the freehqldcrs in 



Mm BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

the towns and districts. These councils are to assemble at 
least once every year; and the house of assembly continues 
four years, except in case of prior dissolution. The governor, 
together with such of the executive council as shall be ap- 
pointed by the king for the affairs of each province, are to be 
a court of civil jurisdiction for hearing and determining ap- 
peals; subject, however, to such appeals from their sentence 
as heretofore existed. All lands in Upper Canada are to be 
granted hereafter in free and common soccage ; and also in 
Lower Canada where the grantee shall desire it, subject ne- 
vertheless to alterations by an act of the legislature. British 
America is superintended by an officer styled Governor-gene- 
ral of the four British Provinces in North America, who, be-- 
sides other powers, is commander-in-chief of all the British 
troops in the four provinces, and the governmentr. attached to 
them, and Newfoundland. Each of the provinces has a lieu- 
tenant-governor, who, in the absence of the governor-general, 
has all the powers requisite to a chief magistrate. 

The policy of giving Canada such a form of government is 
very questionable. But the English are so fond of their con- 
stitution, that they think it is only necessary to shew it to all 
the world, and it must lie accepted with joy. The impossibi- 
lity of establishing in an instant a free constitution, amongst 
an ignorant and superstitious people, is not considered. And 
how can legitima;te Frenchmen, the descendants of men who 
never formed a correct idea themselves of the nature of civil 
and religious liberty, impress it on the minds of their children ? 
or how^ can men who can neither read nor write, which is the 
case with many of the members of the house of assembly, dis- 
charge the important duties of a legislator ? This fact, which 
is stated by travellers of respectability, of itself evinces that ii 
was too soon to give the French Canadians a share of the go- 
vernment. If Upper and Lower Canada had but one house 
of assembly, the English party would always have the ascen- 
dancy ; but Canada being divided into two provinces, and the 
French Canadians in Lower Canada forming thp majority, the 
•government of the country is virtually placed in their hands 



BRITISH NORTH AlVIERICA. 565 

A union of the two provinces, in government, laws, and lan- 
guage, would be equally advantageous to the colonists and 
the mother country. 

Military Force. — In Lower Canada there are about 60,000 
militia. They are mustered at stated periods ; and, in the towns, 
they are clothed and armed, and have learned tlie business of 
soldiers so well, that they are fit to be brigaded with the troops 
of the line. In the late war their courage and conduct were 
excellent; which, no doubt, arose from their hatred to the 
inhabitants of the United States. But, notwithstanding their 
quiet and inoffensive habits, it is doubtful how they would act 
in case Canada was invaded by the French, for whom they 
must have a natural predilection. 

Revenue. — The civil list, including the whole civil expendi- 
ture of the province of Lower Canada for 1806, amounted to 
36,21S/. 11*. S\d. sterling; but of this sum the province paid 
only 16,227/. 14,?. Off?., as appears by the accounts laid before 
the house of assembly ; the remainder was paid out of the 
militar?/ chest, from funds raised by draughts on the British 
government. The military establishment, with repairs of forts, 
&c. is stated at 100,000/. ; and the like sum fur presents to 
the savages, and salaries to officers employed among them for 
trade, Sec. in Upper Canada. But the advantages of the com- 
merce are thought to counterbalance these expences. 

History. — When we refiect on the number of years this 
country has been in the possession of Europeans, we cannot 
help being surprised that it should still retain so much of its 
original rudeness : it is now about 260 years since it was taken 
possession of by the Fvench. The infant colony seems to 
have lx;en very much neglected by Old PVance, who did not 
by any nrwaiis watch over it with a motherly care. From the 
year 1585, when Quebec was first discovered, to the year 
1664, a jieriod of 129 years, the government and trade of Ca- 
nada were in the possession of private merchants holding un- 
der patents from the king of France. In the year 1 664, the 
king assumed the government ; a governor was a})pointed ; 
but the trade of the country was given exclusively to the com- 



566 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

pany des Indes Occidentales. Tlie English had by tliis time 
established colonies in New England and at Boston, who did 
every thing in their power to weaken and annoy the French 
colony, which they found interfered in their trade with the 
Indians. Indeed, the English attacked and took Quebec so 
far back as the year 1629 ; but it was restored to the French 
by the treaty of St. Germain in 1632. The French govern- 
ment, even after they took the colony under their own imme- 
diate care, seem to have paid more attention to the fur trade, 
to exploring the interior of the coimtry, cultivating the friend- 
ship of the Indians, and spreading the Ronian catholic reli- 
gion, than to the improvement of the country in agriculture, 
the promotion of the arts, and the domestic pursuits of civil 
society. 

In 1759, general Wolfe, with infinite labour, contrived to 
carry his little army to the top of the heights on the St. Law- 
rence, and took his stand on tiie plains of Abraham. Mont- 
calm, the French general, vainly confident, marched out of 
the city, engaged the English, and was beat close to the walls. 
It was very unaccountable that the French should resolve to 
come out of a strong fortificalion (where they might long have 
resisted the assailants) and put themselves on a footing with 
their enemies. Besides the troops in the city of Quebec, the 
French had 10,000 men encamped at Beauport, within a few 
miles of Quebec. If an arrangement had taken place with 
these troops, that they sliould attack Wolfe at the moment the 
garrison sallied forth, his little army must have been cut to 
pieces. To this error we owe Quebec. General Montcalm, 
as well as the brave Wolfe, fell in the engagement : very dif- 
ferent, however, must have been their feelings in their last 
moments. Tlie conduct of the Frenchman, in i-ashly sacrific- 
ing his troops and the interests of his country, could not bear 
reflection. Wolfe saw his troops trium})hant ; they had beaten 
the enemy : he died in the arms of victory. 

General M(nitg()mery, in the winter of 1775, besieged Que- 
bec with an American army, and, when reinforced by general 
Arnold, attacked the city by assault on the night of tire Slat 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 567 

December. They were repulsed ; — the general and two of his 
aids-de-camp were killed. The blockade continued during 
the winter : but on the arrival of troops from England in the 
spring, the siege was I'aised, and the Americans driven out of 
the province. 

The different attempts and their failures, lately made by 
the Union to sepai'ate Canada from Great Britain, are well 
known ; and will tend, it is probable, to weaken those prepos- 
terous desires for cooquest, which seem to actuate th.e Ameri- 
can government. 

GASPE. 

Before closing this account of Canada, it may be proper to 
mention a part of it separately. It is called tlie ' Inferior dis- 
trict of Gaspe;' and is situated to the southward of the river 
St. Lawrence, from cape Chat downwards, and comprehends 
a considerable extent of country on the west coast of the gulf 
of St. Lawrence, in which are found two deep bays, viz. Gaspe 
bay and Chaleur bay. 

The district of Gaspe has a governor appointed by the 
king, and there is an inferior court of king"'s bench for the de- 
cision of such civil suits as do not exceed 20/,, and to take 
cognizance of criminal matters that are not capital. At pre- 
sent, the population, reckoning resident settlers only, is not 
more than 3500. In the summer time, a great many more 
are attracted for the purpose of carrying on the fishery, which 
is done in all its different stages. The bays and coasts of 
Gaspe abound with codfish, salmon, and many other sorts of 
lish. There are several fishing stations along the coast ; those 
of most importance are at Perce and Chaleur bay. The trade 
employs annually about a dozen square-rigged vessels, besides 
a great many small craft. Fish, to the value of 60,000/. a 
year, including what is sent to Quebec to be re-sliipped for the 
West Indies, and elsewhere, or used in the country, are cured 
and sent to a market. The greatest part, however, is sent di- 
rect from Gaspe to the West Indies or Mediterranean. 



568 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 



REMA11K3. 

From the preceding description, an opinion may be formed 
respecting the present state of British America. Upper Ca- 
nada will no doubt soon become a thickly settled country. 
Most of the emigrants to these extensive regions are Scotch, 
Irish, and natives of the United States. The climate is mild, 
the land in general fertile, and the tenure easy. The laws also 
appear fair and equal ; but there is a good deal of underhand 
management and mtrigue, and neither independence of senti- 
ment, nor freedom of speech or of the press, are encouraged. 
Indeed, they can hardly be tolerated in a country where the 
government depends for support upon the military, who are of 
course jealous, haughty, and overbearing. 

It is, however, impossible that this state of things should 
last; and accordingly a very powerful opposition has lately 
been made to the unconstitutional conduct of the governor. 
This spirit of resistance will naturally gather strength as the 
population increases; and the separation of this part of the 
British empire from the mother country is perhaps not far dis- 
tant. The encouragement lately offered by our commercial 
regulations, for the exportation of agricultural products from 
Canada, will no doubt operate so as to produce a temporary 
acquiescence to the mandates of government ; but if any at- 
tempts to domineer despotically be persisted in, the result is 
obvious. The British ships might block up the navigation*of 
the St. Lawrence against the inhabitants of Upper Canada; 
but the grand canal, which is intended to join the lakes with 
the Hudson river, will offer a stiil more eltgible outlet for the 
produce of this country. 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 569 



NEW BEUNSWICK. 

nnHE ancient province of Nova Scotia was granted by James 
I. to his secretary Sir William Alexander, afterwards earl 
of Stirling; and the origin of the title of baronets of Nova 
Scotia is well known. It was afterwards seized by the French, 
who seem indeed to have been the first possessors, and by 
whom it was called Acadie ; but it was surrendered to Eng- 
land by the treaty of Utrecht, 1713. In 1784, it was divided 
into two provinces, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. In the 
former there are two considerable bays, and a river of some 
length, called St. John's ; while that of St. Croix divides New 
Brunswick from the province of Main, belonging to the United 
States. The river of St. John is navigable for vessels of 50 
tons about 60 miles, and for boats about 200 ; the tide flowing 
about 80. The fish are salmon, bass, and sturgeon : and the 
banks, enriched by the annual freshes, are often fertile, level, 
and covered with large trees. This river affords a common 
and near route to Quebec. There are many lakes, among 
which the Grand lake is 30 miles, long, and about nine broad. 
The great chain of Apalachian mountains passes on the north- 
west of this province, probably expiring at the gulf of St. 
Lawrence. The capital is Frederick-town on the river St. 
John, about 90 miles from its estuary. St. Ann's is almost 
opposite ; and there are some other settlements nearer the bay 
of Fundy, with a fort called Howe. The chief products are 
timber and fish. 

4 C 



r 
570 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 



NOVA SCOTIA, 

npHIS province is about 300 miles in length, by about 80 of 
medial breadth, being inferior in size to New Brunswick. 
There are several considerable rivers, among which that of 
Annapolis is navigable fifteen miles, for ships of 100 tons. 
The bay of Fundy, between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, 
extends 50 leagues inland ; the ebbing and flowing of the tide 
being from 45 to 60 feet. It is called by the French Acadie, 
has New England and the Atlantic ocean to the south and 
south-west, and the river and gulf of St. Lawrence to the 
north and north-east. Though it lies in a very favourable 
part of the temperate zone, it has a winter of an almost insup- 
portable length and coldness, continuing at least seven months 
in the year : to this innnediately succeeds, without the inter- 
vention of any thing that may be called spring, a summer of a 
heat as violent as the cold, though of no long continuance ; 
and they are wrapped in the gloom of a perpetual fog, even 
long after the summer season has commenced. In most parts, 
the soil is thin and barren, the corn it produces is of a shrivel- 
led kind like rye, and the grass intermixed with a cold spongy 
moss. However, it is not uniformly bad ; there are tracts in 
Nova Scotia which do not yield to the best land in New Eng- 
land. The capital is Halifax, on the bay of Chebucto, well 
situated for the fishery, witii communications by land and wa- 
tier with other parts of this province, and New Brunswick. 
There is a good harbour, where a small squadron of ships of 
war, employed in protecting the fishing vessels, is laid up in 
the winter. The town is entrenched, with forts of timber, and 
is said to contain 15 or 16,000 inhabitants, a superior popula- 
tion to that of Quebec. Shelburne, towards the south-west, 
once contained 600 families ; Guisbury about 250. The har- 
bour of Annapohs is excellent; but it is an inconsiderable 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 571 

hamlet. There are many forests. The Micmacs, an Indian 
tribe of about 300 fighters, dwell to the east of Halifax. Sup- 
plies of grain are sent from Britain ; from whence also are ex- 
ported to these provinces linen and woollen cloths, and other 
articles, to the amount of about 20,000/. : and the returns are 
timber and fish worth about 50,000/. The chief fishery is 
that of cod, near the cape Sable coast. Near cape Canco there 
are remarkable cliffs of white gypsum. About 23 leagues 
from the cape is the isle de Sable, or of Sand, consisting wholly 
of that substance, mixed with white transparent stones, the 
hills being milk-white cones, and some 146 feet above the sea. 
This strange isle has ponds of fresh water; with junipers, 
blueberries, and cranberries, and some grass and vetches, 
which serve to support a few horses, cows, and hogs. The 
bay of Fundy presents an infinite variety of picturesque and 
sublime scenery ; and the bore rises to the height of 70 feet. 



ISLAND 01 CAPE BKETON. 

T^HIS island is attached to the province of Lower Canada, 
though divided from Nova Scotia only by a strait of one 
mile in breadth. It is about 100 miles in length ; and, ac- 
cording to the French authors, was discovered at a very early 
period, about A. D. 1500, by the Normans and Bretons, who 
navigated these seas; and, being supposed a part of the conti- 
nent, was called Cape Breton, a name absurdly retained. 
They did not, however, take possession of it till 1713, when 
they erected fort Dauphin : the harbour being found difficult, 
Louisburg was built in 1720, the settlers being chiefly from 
Europe, as the Acadians, or French of Nova Scotia, did not 
choose to leave that coimtry. In 1745, Cape Breton was 
taken by some troops from New England, and has since re 



572 BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

mained subject to the British crown. The climate is cold and 
fo^gy, not only from the proximity of Newfoundland, but 
from numerous lakes and forests. The soil is chiefly mere 
moss, and has been ibund unfit for agriculture. The chief 
towns are Sidney and Louisburg; the whole inhabitants of 
the isle do not exceed 1000. The fur trade is inconsiderable,' 
but the fishery very important, this island being esteemed the 
chief seat; and the value of this trade, while in the French 
possession, was computed at a million sterling. There is a 
very extensive bed of coal in this island, in a horizontal direc- 
tion, not more than six or eight feet below the surface ; but it 
has been chiefly used as bal'ast: in one of the pits a fire was 
kmdled by accident, and remains unextinguished. 

The island of St. John is at no great distance to the west of 
Cape Breton, being aliout 60 miles in length by 30 in breadth, 
and is attached to the province of Nova Scotia, The French 
inhabitants, about 4000, surrendered, with Cape Breton, in 
1745. It is said to be fertile, with several streams. A lieu- 
tenant-governor resides at Charlotte town ; and the inhabitants 
of the island are computed at 5000, 



PRINCE EDWARD'S ISLAND. 

npHIS island is situated in the gulf of St. Lawrence, near the 
coast of Nova Scotia, It is about 120 miles long, and 
much intersected by arms of the sea, along which is a thinly 
scattered population, estimated at about 7 or 8000. The 
lands of this island were granted in the year 1767, in several 
large lots, of which a great proportion fell into the hands of 
persons who entirely neglected their improvement. This place 
has lately attracted much attention from the patriotic exertions 
of the earl of Selkirk, who, in order to turn the current of 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 573 

emigration from the Highlands of Scotland to the United 
States, conceived the plan of forming a settlement here, where 
the Highlanders might continue their old customs, and enjoy 
all the pleasures that arise from the proud spirit of clanship. 
About 800 of these people, accordingly, reached the island 
August, 1803, under the superintendance of this young no- 
bleman. Each settler was allowed, at a moderate price, from 
50 to 100 acres. This colony has not disappointed the ex- 
pectations of the founder, and seems to promise a desirable re- 
treat to the superfluous population in the Highlands, and also 
to constitute a valuable barrier to the British possessions in 
America. 



NEWFOUNDLAND. 

'pHIS island was discovered by Sebastian Cabot in 1496, 
who also founded the prior claim of England to the North 
American shores as far south as Florida. This discovery, like 
that of Columbus and others, was unintentional, the design 
being merely to penetrate to the East Indies. Those authors 
who wonder that no colonists were sent, only shew their igno- 
rance of the intentions of the first navigators ; as at that period 
there was not one man in Europe who could have formed the 
smallest idea of the benefits of a colony. It was the success of 
the Spanish colonies, allured by gold alone, that, towards the 
end of the sixteenth century, enlarged the ideas of mankind ; 
but, even then, Raleigh's transcendant mind held out gold to 
all his followers, as the sole inducement. The island of New- 
foundland is about 320 miles in length and breadth, the shape 
approaching to a triangle. It seems to be rather hilly than 
mountainous, with woods of birch, small pine, and fir; yet on 
the south-west side there are lofty head-lands. The country 



5n BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

has scarcely been penetrated above 30 miles ; but there are 
numerous ponds and morasses, with some dry barrens. The 
gveat fishery on the banks of Newfoundland begins about the 
10th of May, and continues till the end of September. The 
cod is either dried for the Mediterranean ; or what are called 
mud-fish, barrelled up in a pickle of salt, for the English mar- 
ket. These banks and the island are environed with constant 
fog, or snow and sleet ; the former supposed by some to be 
occasioned by the superior warmth of the gulf stream from the 
West Indies. The fishery is computed to yield about 
300,000/. a year, from the cod sold in the catholic countries. 
The island of Newfoundland, after many disputes with the 
French, was ceded to England 1713, the French having per- 
mission to dry their nets on the northern shores; and in 1763 
it was stipulated that they might fish in the gulf of St. Law- 
rence ; and the small isles of St. Pierre and Miquelon were 
ceded to them. The French, by the treaty 1783, were to en- 
joy their fisheries on the northern and western coasts, the in- 
habitants of the United States having the same privileges as 
before their independence ; and the preliminaries of October, 
1801, confirm the privileges granted to the French. 

The chief towns are St. John in the south-east, with Pla- 
centia in the south, and Bonavista in the east ; but not above 
1000 families remain during the winter. In the spring a small 
squadron is sent to protect the fisheries and settlements, the 
admiral being also eovernor of the island, its sole consequence 
depending on tlie fishery; and there are two lieutenant-go- 
vernors, one at St. John's, another at Placentia. 

These dreary shores are strongly contrasted by the Bermu- 
das, or Sommer islands, lying almost at an equal distance be- 
tween Nova Scotia and the West Indies ; but as they are 
nearer to the coast of Carolina than to any other land, it 
seems more proper to arrange them here than under any 
other division. 



BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 575 



BERMUDAS, OE SOMMER ISLANDS. 

T'HEY are four in number, and were discovered by the 
Spaniards under John Bermudas, in 1527; but being 
afterwards neglected by them, tliey were again disclosed by 
the shipwreck of Sir George Sommer in 1609 ; which event 
seems to have induced Shakespeare to describe them as ever 
vexed with storms. Another poet, Waller, who resided there 
some time, on his being condemned for a plot against the par- 
liament in 1643, describes them in very different colours, as 
enjoying a perpetual spring. In 17J25, the benevolent and 
eccentric bishop Berkeley proposed to erect a college in these 
islands for the conversion of the savage Americans ! It ap- 
pears that the largest island, called Bermuda, resembles a 
hook, the great sound fronting the north. The length is 
about 35 geographical miles, the breadth seldom two. The 
other isles are St. George's, St. David's, and Somerset ; with 
sever^ islets, and numerous rocks. The town of St. George 
contains about 500 houses, built of a soft free-stone, probably 
like that of Bath ; the inhabitants being about 3000, and those 
©f all the isles perhaps about 9000. There is a governor, 
council, and general assembly; tiie religion being that of the 
church of England. The people are chiefly occupied in 
building light ships of their cedars, in which they trade to 
North America and the West Indies. It would appear that 
these remote isles were uninhabited when settled by the Eng- 
lish; but a good history and description of the Bermudas 
might afford a pleasing addition to the geographical library. 
Mr. Morse says that the blacks are here twice as numerous as 
the whites ; and that a great part of their trade consists in 
carrying salt to America. The women are said to be hand- 
some, and both sexes fond of dress, which is perhaps more 
laudable than the opposite extreme. 



SPANISH 



NORTH AMERICA. 



>:vS»^:^'^<S.::v.- 



Extent. 'T'HE Spanish dominions in North America are 
more important, in every respect, than those 
they hold in the southern half of the new continent. Yet 
jealousy of the English, and recently of the government of the 
United States, has long prevented any precise intelligence re- 
sjDecting these regions from appearing. Recourse, therefore, 
must unavoidably be had to authorities which might, in any 
other case, be deemed imperfect, dubious, or antiquated. 

Of this wide region the chief part is distinguished by the 
name of Mexico, or New Spain ; the provinces, in ascending 
from the south to the north, being Veragua, Costa Rica, Ni- 
caragua, Honduras (with the Mosquito shore claimed by the 
English), Guatimala and Verapaz, Chiapa, Tabasco, and the 
peninsula of Yucatan, Guaxaca, Mexico proper, including 
suWivisions : with New Gallicia, Biscay, and Leon. What 
is called the empire of Mexico was in truth only a moderate 
kingdom, about 600 miles in length by 140 in breadth. Nay, 
the /republic of Tlascala was within 60 miles of the capital. 

The provinces further to the north are Cinaloa and others 
on the gulf of California, with that large Chersonese itself: 
New Mexico includes the most northern central settlements on 
the Rio Bravo. 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 577 

Climate. — In California epidemical distempers seem to be 
irequent; but the country has not been sufficiently examined 
by scientific observers. Moisture seems to predominate in the 
isthmus ; but not to such a degree as in the South American 
province of Darien, where it may be said to rain for nine 
months in the year. The rains, however, temper the extreme 
heat, which would otherwise predominate in this climate. Vio- 
lent storms are not unfrequent, and sometimes the lightning 
seems to rise from the ground. The maritime districts of 
Mexico are, however, hot and unhealthy, so as to occasion 
much perspiration even in January. The inland mountains, 
on the contrary, will sometimes present white frost and ice in 
the dog days. In other inland provinces the climate is mild 
and benign, with some momentary snow in winter ; but no ar- 
tificial warmth is found necessary, and animals sleep all the 
year under the open sky. There are plentiful rains, generally 
after mid-day, from April till September, and hail-storms are 
not unknown. Thunder is frequent; and the earthquakes 
and volcanoes are additional circumstances of terror. 

Face of the Country. — The face of the country is rather 
mountainous than plain, except towards the shores ; but the 
mountains are interspersed with delightful vales, and the soil 
is generally fertile. 

Rivers. — The streanis in the isthmus are of a short course, 
and little remarkable in any respect. The principal river of 
Spanish North America is, beyond all comparison, the Rio 
Bravo, called also del Norte, or of the northern star. The 
course of this important river, so far as its sources can yet be 
conjectured, may be about 1000 British miles ; but its whole 
circuit probably exceeds that of the Danube. The nature of 
the shores, and the various appearances and qualities of the 
waters, have not been illustrated. 

Next in consequence would seem to be the Rio Colorado, 
on the east of the Bravo, whose comparative course may be 
about TOO British miles. Towards the west is a large river 
which flows into the Vermillion sea, or gulf of California, also 
called by D'Anville Colorado., with the addition de los Mar- 
tyres ; but the main stream seems rather to be the Rio Grande 
25 4 D 



578 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

de los Apostolos, barbarous appellations imposed by the Jesuits 
who had settlements in California. The course of this river 
may be computed at 600 British miles. Among the rivers of 
the isthmus may be mentioned those of Palmas, of Panuco, Ta- 
basco, Sumasinta, St. Juan, all flowing into the gulf of Mexico. 
Those which join the Pacific seem mere rivulets ; till, in the 
vicinity of Mexico, the mountains rather tend to the east, and 
the streams of Yopez, and Zacatula, join the Pacific ocean. 
That of Guadalaxara rises to the west of Mexico ; and being 
considered as passing through the lake of Chapala, will thus 
join the Pacific after a comparative course of 350 British 
miles. 

Lakes. — The chief lake in Spanish North America, so far as 
yet explored, is that of Nicaragua, which is about 170 British 
miles in length, north-west to south-east, and about half that 
breadth. This grand lake is situated in the province of the 
same nam€, towards the south of the isthmus, and has a great 
outlet, the river of St. Juan, to the gulf of Mexico, while a 
smaller stream is by some supposed to flow into the Pacific. 
In the hands of an enterprising people tlais lake would supply 
the long wished for passage, from the Atlantic into the Pacific, 
and in the most direct course that eould be desired. Nature 
has already supplied half the means ; and it is probable that a 
complete passage might have been opened, at half the expence 
wasted in fruitless expeditions to discover such a passage by 
the north-west, or tiie north-east. This speculation must de- 
pend on circumstances ; but if a passage were once opened, 
the force of the ocean would probably enlarge it ; and a tri- 
bute at this new sound would be a considerable source oi re- 
venue. Among the more northern lakes, that of Mexico is 
jsiot only celebrated, but of considerable extent, being, accord- 
ing to the best maps, more than 30 British miles in length, 
north to south, if the port called Chalco be included, To- 
'»vards the west in this part, where the isthmus begins to en- 
large, there are several lakes, the principal being that of 
Chapala, which is about 60 British miles in length by 20 in 
breadth. The north-western parts have been little explored, 
;but probably contain some lakes of considerable extent. 



SPANISH iNORTH AMERICA. 579 

Mountains. — The whole of the Spanish territories in Nortlv 
America may be regarded as mountainous. The grand chain 
of the Andes seems to terminate on the west of tlie gulf of 
Darien in South America, but by others is supposed to extend 
to the lake of Nicaragua. Even this extension would totally 
differ in its direction from the Andean range, as bending 
north-west, then south-west, then again north-west, so that the 
main range seems here lost, or passes through the Caribbean 
sea in the isles of Mosquitos and others towards Jamaica ; 
while the mountains in the south of the isthmus, as far as the 
lake of Nicaragua, must be regarded as only a braneh, declin- 
ing much in height, till it finally expire at that lake. In this 
point of view the ranges passing from north to south must be 
regarded as spurs of the main chain ; but as on the one hand 
orology is confounded by minute and various appellations given 
to portions of the same range, so it may be equally perplexed 
by too extensive appellations, which, as in the case of the 
Taurus of the ancients, can only impart confused and errone- 
ous ideas. The Mexican mountains seem to consist of gneiss, 
granite, &c., while the grand chain of the Andes has a most 
peculiar character, being composed of argillaceous schistus. 
The ridge of Canatagua passes north and south, between the 
provinces of Veragua and Panama. It is followed in the for- 
mer province by the range called Urraca, and the volcano of 
Varu ; and by several ridges in Costa Rica. 

To the north of the lake of Nicaragua the main ridges often 
pass east and west; and the Sierra of Yucatan north-east. 
The chief summit of Nicaragua seems to be the Mamatombo, 
The volcano of Guatimala raged furiously during the earth- 
quakes which ruined that great city in 1773. In the ancient 
kingdom of Mexico, which extended from near the lake of 
Chapala in the north, to Chiapa on the river Tabasco in the 
south, the summits rise to a great height, as being the central 
parts of a range wholly unconnected with the Andes. Their 
direction has not been laid down with care or intelligence, 
more attention having been paid to the numerous volcanoes, 
than to other grand features. D'Auteroche observes that the 
mountain of Orisaba is said to be the highest in Mexico; and 



580 SPANISH NORTH AMEllICA. 

its snowy summit is visible from the capital, a distance of G(J 
miles. This celebrated mountain is to the south-east of Mex- 
ico, not far from the road to Vera Cruz : it became volcanic in 
1545, and continued for 20 years ; since which time there has 
been no appearance of iiiiianmiation. Though the summit be 
clothed with perpetual snow, the sides are adorned with beau- 
tiful forests of cedars, pines, and other trees. The detached 
mountains called by the Mexicans Popacatepec, and Iztacci- 
huatl, are also to the south-east of the capital, at about 80 
miles distance, being both volcanic. The crater of the former 
is said to be half a mile wide, and celebrated for ancient erup- 
tions. Both are covered with perpetual snow. There are 
many other volcanoes in this singular province ; while others 
are only remarkable for height, as the mountain of Tlascala, 
the Tentzon, Toloccam, and others; the rang-e now extending 
in a north-west direction towards Cinaloa, and being called the 
Sierra Mada, or Mother range, and the Shining mountains. 
It is afterwards, according to the best maps, joined by a ridge 
running north-west from Louisiana; and after this junction 
passes through the north-west to the proximity of the arctic 
ocean, while the centre of North America consists of extensive 
and fertile plains. 

The construction of the Mexican mountains has not been 
examined by any geologist Among the substances basalt 
seems clearly indicated ; and some others will be mentioned in 
the mineralogy. There are numerous forests on the sides of 
the mountains; and tlie peninsula of Yucatan is particularly 
abundant in logwood trees. 

Botany and Zoolo^tj. — Our information respecting the ve- 
getable productions of Mexico is very imperfect. It, however, 
produces several native plants of great value ; among which 
may be mentioned a species of Indian (ig upon which the co- 
chineal insect delights to 'i^Q&^ the true jalap, and the two trees 
that yield the fragrant gum resins known in commerce by the 
names of balsam of Capavi and Tolu. The shores of the bays 
of Honduras and Campechy have been celebrated from their 
very first discovery for their immense forests of mahogany and 
logwood ; and the neighbourhood of Guatimala is distinguished 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 581 

for its indigo. The guayacum, the sassafras and ta«iarind, the 
cocoa nut pahn, the chocolate nut tree, and a variety of others, 
which are better known as natives of the West Indian islands, 
enrich and adorn these fertile provinces. The pine apple grows 
wild in the woods, and the shallow rocky soils are inhabited by 
the various species of aloe and euphorbia. A few Mexican 
plants have been introduced into European gardens, among 
which may be noticed the salvia fulgens, glowing with its crim- 
son blossoms, the splendid dalilia, the elegant striated sisyrin- 
chium, the gigantic helianthus, and the delicate mentzelia. 

Among the most singular animals is the Mexican or 
hunchback dog, a kind of porcupine, and some others de- 
scribed by several naturalists. What is called the tiger seems 
a species of panther, and sometimes grows to a great size, 
though Buffon, ever fond of theory, assert that American ani- 
mals are generally small. In South America it attains the 
length of a large ox, as appears from the testimony of Dobriz- 
hoffer; but Clavigero says that the largest quadruped is the 
danfa, anta, or tapir, about the size of a middling mule, being 
amphibious. The bison is found in New Mexico; and the 
musk cattle may perhaps extend as far. In California there 
are said to be wild sheep. The birds of New Spain are parti- 
cularly numerous and curious. 

M'lneralogij. — The mineralogy of the Spanish empire in 
North America is equal, if not superior, to that of Peru, and 
the other southern provinces. Even in the northern parts na- 
ture has disclosed her treasures : there is abundance of gold 
found in the province of Sonora ; and California is supposed 
to contain rich minerals. The silver mines in New Spain, 
though they do not contend with Potosi, have long maintained 
great celebrity. Those of Socotecas, or Zacatecas, are parti- 
cularly distinguished. The produce of the Mexican mines 
has by some been computed at ten millions yearly ; but the 
whole amount of the American mines probably does not ex- 
ceed seven millions and a half; of which it cannot be supposed 
that North America produces more than two-thirds. The 
ancient Mexicans found gold in many of their rivers; and sil- 
ver was dug up, but little esteemed. The chief silver mines 



58t^ SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

are now to the north-west of the capital, where there is a towii 
called Luis de Potosi, more than 200 British miles from Mex- 
ico. These mines are said to have heen discovered soon after 
those of Potosi, 154-5 : they are in a considerable range of 
mountains, which give source to the river of Fanuco. Con- 
cerning the nature of these mines, and the manner of working 
them, the Spanish writers seem to be silent. 

Copper is said to abound in some districts to the west of the 
capital , and tin is also mentioned among the Mexican mine- 
rals. Mercury is likewise reported to have been found in 
Mexico, and there was a celebrated mine in Peru ; but both 
seem to be now exhausted, as the chief supply is fiom Spain. 
Amber and asphalt likewise occur in New Spain : and among 
the precious stones a few diamonds, with amethysts and tur- 
quoises, but the list is imperfect, and perhaps erroneous. The 
mountains also produce jasper, marble, alabaster, magnet, 
steatite, jad, talc. The stone called tctzontli, red and porous, 
was used in building, being perhaps a kind of tufa. The itzli 
is semi-transparent, of a glassy substance, and generally black, 
but also found white and blue: it was used in mirrws, and 
also for sharp instruments, being the same called pietra del 
Gal'mazzo in South America, the obsidian or volcanic glass of 
modern mineralogv. 

There are several mineral waters of various qualities, sul- 
phureous, vitriolic, and aluminous ; and some springs of great 
heat ; but none seem particularly distinguished. 

Natural Curiosities. — Besides the volcanoes, there are many 
natural curiosities, one of the most remarkable being the Ponte 
de Dios, or Bridge of God, resembling the natural bridge in 
the territory of the United States. It is about 100 miles 
south-east from Mexico, near the village of Molcaxac, over a 
deep river called the Aquetoyaqvie, and is constantly passed as 
a highway; but it seems uncertain whether the river have 
worn the passage through a rocky mountain, or the fragment 
be part of a fallen hill detached by an earthquake. There are 
many romantic cataracts, among which must be mentioned 
those ol" the river Guadalaxara, between the city of the same 
iiam€ and the lake of Chapala. The floating gardens in the 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 583 

lake of ^Mexico were artificial curiosities, the bottom being 
formed of intertwsted willows. 

Populatian. — The population of all the Spanish provinces 
of North America, exclusive of Florida and Louisiana, has 
been estimated at about six millions; of whom the natives, 
called Indians, are supposed to amount to three millions; and 
the Spaniards and inhabitants of mixed races are computed at 
other three, of which the Spaniards may constitute one-third. 
The small-pox is remarkably fatal ; and the black vomit, 
which is allied to the yellow fever of the United States, acts at 
intervals with the ravages ol" a pestilence. The number of 
priests, monks, and nuns, is also injurious to population, 
wliich, however, appears upon the whole to have greatly 
mcreased. 

The population of America, before the European conquest, 
appears to have been greatly exaggerated, as usual in every 
case of the like nature ; and from I'ough calculations, offered 
even by classical authors, perhaps four-fiftlis may be always 
deducted. That this is the case at least with the discoverers 
of new countries, may be judged from our own enlightened 
times, in which the English voyagers to Otaheite supposed the 
inhabitants to exceed 100,000, when, upon actual enumeration, 
there were found little more than 16,000. It is probable that 
when America was discovered, the whole population, inckiding 
the West Indies, did not exceed four millions. Resides the 
usual mistakes, there was an additional source of exaocreration, 
as the Spanish conquerors, like kniglits-errant, counted hun- 
dreds by thousands; and the oriental vein of hyperbole, intro- 
duced by the Moors, has tainted the early Spanish authors. 
If we allow that a hundred or two of Europeans could subvert 
a mighty American empire, we must imagine that its armies 
were s)nall, as well as cowardly and unskilful. 

Mamiers and C^istoms. — For hospitality, generosity, doci- 
litV; and sobriety, the people of New Spain exceed any nation 
perhaps on the globe: but in national energy or patriotism, 
enterprise of character, and independence of soul, they are 
perhaps the most deficient. Yet there are men who have dis- 
played bravery to a surprising degree; and the Europeans 



584. SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

who are there, cherish with delight the idea of their gallant 
ancestry. Their women have black eyes and hair, fine t' th, 
and are generally brunettes. They are all inclining a little to 
en-bon-point^ but none, or few, are elej^ant figures. Their 
dresses are generally short jackets and petticoats, and high- 
heel shoes, without any head-dress : over this they have a silk 
wrapper which tiiey always wear, and when in the presence of 
men affect to bring it over their faces ; but near the Atlantic 
and the frontiers of the United States, there are several ladies 
who wear the gowns used in France and England, which they 
conceive to be more elegant than their ancient costume. The 
lower class of the men arc generally dressed in broad brimmed 
hats, short coats, large waistcoats and small clothes, always 
open at the knees, owing to the greater freedom it gives to the 
limbs on horseback, a kind of leather boot or wrapper bound 
round the leg. The boot is of a soft pliable leather, but not 
coloured. In the eastern provinces the dragoons wear over 
this wrapper a sort of jack-boot made of seal leather, to which 
are fastened the spurs by a rivet, the gaifs of which are some- 
times near an inch in length. But the spurs of the gentlemen 
and officers, although clumsy to our ideas, are frequently or- 
namented with raised silver work on the shoulders, and the 
strap embroidered with silver and gold thread. They arc al- 
ways ready to mount their horses, on which the inhabitants of 
the internal provinces spend nearly half the day. This de- 
scription will apply generally for the dress of all the men of 
the provinces for the lower class ; but in the towns, amongst 
the more fashionable ranks, they dress after the European or 
United States mode, with not more distinction than we see in 
our cities from one six months to another. Both men and 
.women have remarkably fine hair, and pride themselves in the 
display of it. 

Their amusements are music, singing, dancing, and gam- 
bling : the latter is strictly prohibited, but the prohibititm is 

not much attended to. The dance of is performed by 

one man and two women, who beat time to the music, which 
is soft and voluptuous, but sometimes changes to a lively gay 
air, while the dancers occasionally exhibit the most indelicate 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 585 

gestures. The whole of this dance is calculated to impress a 
stranger with the idea of an insulated society of once civilised 
beings, but now degenerated into a medium state, between the 
improved world and the children of nature. The fandango is 
danced in various figures and numbers. The minuet is still 
danced by the superior class only. The music made use of is 
the guitar, violin, and singers, who, in the first described 
dance, accompany the music with their hands and voices, 
having always some words adapted to the music, which are 
generally of such a tendency as would, in Europe, occasion 
every lady to leave the room. 

Their games are. cards, billiards, horse-racing, and cock- 
fighting, the first and last of which are carried to the most ex- 
travagant lengths, the parties losing and winning immense 
sums. At every town of consequence is a public walk, where 
the ladies and gentlemen meet and sing songs, which, are al- 
ways on the subject of love, or the social board. Tiie females 
liave fine voices, and sing in French, Italian, and Spanish, the 
whole company joining in the chorus. In their houses the 
ladies play on the guitar, and generally accompany it with 
their voices. They either sit down on the carpet cross-legged, 
or loll on a sofa. To sit upright in a chair appears to put 
them to orreat inconvenience; and althou"h the better class 
will sometimes do it on the first introduction of strangers, they 
soon demand liberty to follow their old habits. In their eat- 
ing and drinking they are remarkably temperate. Early in 
the morning you receive a dish of chocolate and a cake ; at 
twelve you dine on several dishes of meat, fowls, and fish ; 
after which you have a variety of confectionary, and indeed an 
elegant dessert : then drink a few glasses of wine, sing a few 
songs, and retire to take the siesta, or afternoon nap, which is 
done by rich and poor; and about two o'clock the windows 
and door^ are all closed, the streets deserted, and the stillness 
of midnight reigns throughout. About four o'clock they rise, i 
wash, and dress, and prepare for the dissipation of the night. 
About eleven o'clock some refreshments are offered, but few 
take any, except a little wine and water, and a little candied 
sugar. 

4 E 



586 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

The government have multipHed the difficulties for Euro 
peans mixing with the Creoles, or Mestis, to such a degree, 
that it is difficult for a marriage to take place. An officer 
wishing to marry a lady not from Europe, is obliged to ac- 
quire certificates of the purity of her descent for 200 years 
back, and transmit them to the court, when the license will be 
returned ; but should she be the daughter of a person of the 
rank of captain or upwards, this nicety vanishes, as their rank 
purifies the blood of the descendants. 

The general subjects of the conversation of the men are 
women, money, and horses, which appear to be the only ob- 
jects, in their estimation, worthy of consideration. Having 
united the female sex with their money and their beasts, and 
treated them too nmch after the manner of the latter, they 
have eradicated from their breasts every sentiment of virtue, 
or of ambition to pursue the acquirements which would make 
them amiable companions, instructive mothers, or respectable 
members of society. Their whole souls, with a few exceptions, 
like the Turkish ladies, are taken up in music, dress, and the 
little blandishments of voluptuous dissipation. Finding that 
the men only require these as objects of gratification to the 
sensual passions, they have lost every idea of the feast of rea- 
son and the flow of soul which arise from the intercourse of 
two refined and virtuous minds, whose inmost thoughts are 
open to the inspection and admiration of each other, and 
whose refinements of sentiment heighten the pleasures of every 
gratification. 

Such is the character of the Spaniards in Nortli America, as 
given by a recent traveller in that country. Those of the an- 
cient Mexicans have been described by many authors, but a 
few singularities may be here mentioned. A peculiar feature 
of the IVIexican language was, that a termination indicating 
respect might be added to every word. Thus, in speaking to 
an equal, the word father was tail, but to a superior tatzin. 
They had also reverential verbs, as appears from Aldama*'s 
Mexican grammar. Thus, as cowards are always cruel, the 
most ferocious people in the world were at the same time also 
the most servile and obsequious. Their wars were constant 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 587 

and sanguinary ; and their manners, in genera], corresponded 
with this barbarous disposition : the principal warriors cover- 
ing themselves with the skins of the sacrificed victims, and 
dancing through the streets. The dress was a loose cloak, 
and a sash girt round the naked waist. From the ancient 
paintings it appears that the under lip was pierced to receive 
an ornament of gold. This custom La Perouse and others 
have observed on the north-west coast of America. The year 
was divided into eighteen months, each of twenty days ; and 
five days were added, which were dedicated to festivity. 
They cultivated maize and some roots ; but their agriculture 
was rude, and they were strangers to the use of money. On 
the death of a chief, a great number of his attendants were 
sacrificed. 

Lmiguage. — Of the Mexican language grammars and dic- 
tionaries have been published in the country; and from the 
few specimens contained in European pubhcations, it appears 
to difi'er radically from the Peruvian. The words frequently 
end in tl ; and are besides of a surprising and unproiwuncea- 
ble length, resembling in this respect the language of the sa- 
vages in North America, and some of the African dialects ; 
but strongly contrasted with those of Asia, in which the most 
polished, as the Chinese, are monosyllabic. According to 
Clavigero, the Mexican tongue wants the consonants 6, t,J', g-^ 
r, and s ; in which respect only, though unobserved by that 
author, it strictly coincides with the Peruvian ; except that the 
latter, instead of the s, is said to want the 2, a mere difference 
of enunciation. But the Peruvian is a far superior and more 
pleasing language, though some modifications of the verbs be 
of extreme length. The wild enthusiasm of Clavigero com- 
pares the Mexican with the Latin and Greek ; though as like 
as he to Herodotus. Some of the words are of sixteen sylla- 
bles. Their poetry consisted of hymns, and of heroic and 
amatory ballads. They had also a kind of dramas; but from 
the specimen produced, they do not seem to have been supe- 
rior to those of Otaheite. 

Education. — There are several laudable institutions in the 
Spanish settlements for the education of the natives, and some 



588 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

colleges or universities; but the fanatical spirit of the instruct- 
ors renders such foundations of little value. 

Cities. — The chief city of New Spain, and all Spanish Ame- 
rica, is Mexico, celebrated for the singularity of its situation. 
In a beautiful vale surrounded with mountains the lake of 
Tezcuco is joined on the south to that of Chalco by a strait^ 
on the west side of a tongue of land, the whole circuit of these 
lakes being about 90 miles. In a small isle to the north of 
this junction, and upon the west side of Tezcuco, rose the old 
city of Mexico, accessible by several causeways raised in the 
shallow waters; but on the east side there was no communica- 
tion except by canoes. It is said by Robertson, from recent 
Spanish documents, to contain 150,000 inhabitants ; of which 
probably a third part is Spanish. The most recent account of 
this remarkable city seems to be that given by Chappe D'Aur 
teroche, who visited it in 1769, and informs us that it is built 
upon a fen, near the banks of a lake, and crossed by numerous 
canals, the houses being all founded on piles. Hence it would 
seem that the waters of the lake have diminished, so as to 
leave a fenny access on the west. The ground .still yields in 
many places; and some buildings, as the cathedral, have sunk 
six feet. The streets are wide and straight, but very dirty; 
and the houses, resembling those in Spain, are tolerably built. 
The chief edifice is the viceroy's palace, which stands near the 
cathedral in a central square, but is rather solid than elegant. 
Behind the palace is the mint, in which more than a hundred 
workmen are employed, as the owners of the mines here ex- 
change their bullion for coin. The other chief buildings are 
the churches, chapels, and convents, which are very numerous, 
and richly ornamented. The outside of the cathedral is unfi- 
nished, as they doubt the foundations ; but the rail round the 
high altar is of solid silver, and there is a «ilver lamp so capa- 
cious that three men can get in to clean it ; while it is also en- 
riched with lions"* heads, and other ornaments, in pure gold. 
The images of the virgin, and other saints, are either solid 
silver, or covered with gold and precious stones. Besides the 
great central square, there are two others, each with a fountain 
ill the middle. ' To the north of the towp,'' says the writep 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 589 

above mentioned, 'near the suburbs, is the public walk, or 
Alameda. A rivulet runs all round it, and forms a pretty 
large square, with a bason and Jet d''cau in the middle. Eight 
walks, with each two rows of trees, terminate at this bason, 
like a star ; but as the soil of Mexico is unfit for trees, they 
are not in a very thriving condition. This is the only walk in 
or near to Mexico ; all the country about it is swampy ground, 
and full of canals. A few paces off, and facing the Alameda, 
is the Qucmadero ; that is the place where they burn the Jews, 
and other unhaj^py victims of the awful tribunal of inqui.sition. 
The Quemadero is an enclosure between four walls, and filled 
with ovens, into which are thrown over the walls the poor 
wretches who are condemned to be burnt alive; condemned 
bv judges professing a religion whose first precept is charity.' 
The Spanish inhabitants are conuuonly clothed in silk, their 
hats beino; adorned with belts of fjold and roses of diamonds ; 
for even the slaves have bracelets and necklaces of gold, silver, 
pearls, and gems. The ladies are distinguished for beauty 
and gallantry. Mexico, though inland, is the seat of vast 
commerce between Vera Cruz on the east, and Acapulco on 
the west; and the shops thsplay a profusion of gold, silver, 
and jewels. In magnificent reguiaritv it yields to few cities 
even on the ancient continent. Gage, whose authority is used 
by the most recent writers of all countries in t!ie defect of 
other materials, says that in his time, 1640, there were sup- 
posed to be 15,000 coaches, some of them adorned with gold 
and gems ; the people being so rich that it was supposed that 
one half of the families kept equipages. 

SavMi Fe, the capital of New Mexico, is situated on a small 
stream which empties into the Rio del Norte, on the eastern 
side, at the foot of the mountains which divide tlie waters of 
that river from tke Arkansaiw and Red rivers of the Missis- 
sippi, in 36 deg. north lat. and 109 deg. west long. It is of a 
long rectangular form, extending about one mile from east to 
west on the banks of the creek. In the centre is the public 
square, one side of which forms the flank of the soldiers' 
square, which is closed, and in some degree defended by 
round towers in the angles which flank the curtains; another 



590 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

side of the square is formed by the palace of the governor, his 
guard houses, &c. ; another is occupied by the priests and 
their suite ; and the fourth by the chapitones, who reside in 
the city. The houses are generally only one story high, with 
flat roofs, and have a very mean appearance on the outside; 
but some of them are richly furnished, especially with plate. 
The population is estmiated at 3600. 

Acapulco was a celebrated port on the south of Mexico, en- 
grossing the chief Indian trade over the Pacific ; while Car- 
thagena, in South America, on the Caribbean sea, was a 
centre of European traffic. Both were in unhealthy situa- 
tions, as Mexico itself; for, by a fatal error, the Spaniards, 
Dutch, and other Europeans, have in Asia and America 
founded cities on plains, in imitation of those in their own 
countries, while high situations ought to have been selected. 

Mechoacan is a fair commercial town ; and Merlda, the ca- 
pital of the peninsula of Yucatan, is a bishopric, and the 
residence of the governor of the province. Old Vc7-a Cruz 
was burnt by the buccaneers, and a more advantageous position 
selected for the new city. It contains one church and three 
monasteries, and is enclosed with ruinous fortifications : lying 
to the south-east of Mexico, and the common port for Eu- 
ropean goods, where a Spanish fleet used to arrive every two 
years, taking in return silver and other treasures. On the 
north are barren sands, and on the west bogs that have been 
drained. Guaxaca exports excellent wool and perfumes. St. 
Leon and Granada are both situated on the large lake of Ni- 
caragua, where the chain of the Andes is supposed to termi^. 
nate, even by those who carry its extension to the utmost 
limit. Even the inferior cities contain, as Robertson observes, 
a superior population to those of any other European nations 
in America, that of Angelas being computed at 60,000, and 
of Guadalaxara 30,000, exclusive of Indians, 

Trade., 4"C, — The trade and commerce of New Spain are 
carried on with Europe and the United States by the port of 
Vera Cruz solely, and with the East Indies and South Ame- 
rica by Acapulco, and even then under such restrictions of 
productions, manufactures, and time, as to render it alm.ost of 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 591 

no consequence as to the general prosperity of the country. 
Were all the numerous bays and harbours of the gulf of 
Mexico and California opened to the trade of the world, and 
a general license given to the cultivation of all the productions 
which the country is capable of yielding, with freedom of ex- 
portation and importation, with proper duties on foreign 
goods, the country would immediately become rich and power- 
ful, a proper stimulus would be held out to the poor to labour, 
when certain of finding a quick and ready sale for the produc- 
tions of their plantations or manufactories. The country 
abounds in iron ore, yet all the iron and steel, and articles of 
manufactures, are obliged to be brought fi'om Europe, the 
manufacturing or working of iron being strictly prohibited. 
This occasions the necessary utensils of husbandry, arms, and 
tools, to be enormously high, and forms a great check to agri- 
culture, improvements in manufactures, and military skill. 
The works of the Mexicans in gold, silver, and painting, shew 
them not to be destitute of genius, which, with cultivation and 
improvement, might rival the greatest masters of either ancient 
or modern schools. Their dispositions and habits are pecu- 
liarly calculated for sedentary employments; and there is no 
doubt, if proper establishments were made, they would soon 
rival, if not surpass, the most extensive woollen, cotton, or silk 
manufactures of Europe. Their climate is adapted for raising 
the finest cotton in the world ; and their sheep possess all the 
fineness of avooI, for which they are so celebrated in Spain. 
Besides this, they have immense quantities of raw materials, 
which they have on hand,, wool selling for a mere trifle ; and 
in fact they scarc&ly take the half from the fleece of the sheep 
for the coarse manufactories of the country, and for making 
beds. 

New Spain is, in fact, singularly distinguished by the mul- 
titude and variety of its productions, in all the three great 
reigns of nature, animal, vegetable, and mineral ; and this 
abundance of natural productions perhaps contributes to the 
neglect of manufactures. Even metallurgy is but poorly con- 
ducted. Cochineal and cocoa, with a little silk and cotton, 
form articles of export ; but the chief are gold, silver, and 



592 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

precious stones. There was a celebrated fair at Acapulco, on 
the annual arrival ol' the shi}>s from Peru and Chili; after 
which the noted galleon, laden with the wealth cf America, 
pursued her course to IVIanilla. Other arrangements are now 
followed, and smaller vessels employed. The galleons were 
laid aside in 1748 ; and the late Spanish monarch instituted 
commercial regulations on a more liberal plan. In 1764, 
monthly packets were established between Corunna and Ha- 
vanna, whence smaller vessels pass to Vera Cruz, and to Por- 
tobello in South America; and an interchange of productions 
by these vessels is also permitted. In the following year, the 
trade to Cuba was laid open to all Spain ; and the privilege 
was afterwards extended to Louisiana, and the provinces of 
Yucatan and Campechy. In 1774, free intercourse was per- 
mitted between the three viceroyalties of Mexico, Peru, and 
New Granada. The courts of justice were also reformed, and 
a fourth viceroy alty was estabhshed, 1776, on Rio de la Plata. 
By a singular policy a free trade is permitted between New 
Spain and the Philippines, which adds considerably to the 
wealth of the former country. Tlie English trade in the bay 
of Honduras may now be considered as terminated, the log- 
wood on the opposite side of Yucatan being found to be of a 
superior quality. 

Religion. — The religion of the Spanish settlers in these 
provinces is well known to be the Roman catholic, and of such 
a sort as greatly to impede industry or prosperity, for it is 
computed that one-fifth part of the Spaniards consists of eccle- 
siastics, monks, and nuns ; and that country must be misera- 
bly defective in which the Jesuits were of distinguished 
industry. The establishment of the inquisition, and the 
strange fanaticism of the Spaniards, who disgrace the Eu- 
ropean name, have not only crushed all spirit of exertion, but 
have prevented the admixture of other Europeans, whose in- 
dustry might improve tlieir settlements, and whose courage 
might defend them. 

New Spain is divided into four archbishoprics, viz. Mexico, 
Guadalaxara, Durango, and St. Luis Potosi ; under these 
again are the sub-bishoprics, deacons, curates, &c. each of 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 593 

■whom is subject and accountable to his immediate chiefs for 
the districts committed to his charge, and the whole are again 
subject to the ordinances of the high court of inquisition, held 
at the capital of Mexico. ' The salaries of the archbishops,"" 
observes a late writer, ' are superior to those of other officers, 
that of the bishop of Mexico being estimated at 150,000 dol- 
lars per annum, while the viceroy has but 80,000, and 50,000 
allowed for his table, falling short of the bishop SO.OOO dollars. 
These incomes are raised entirely from the people, who pay 
no tax to the king, but give one-tenth of their yearly income 
to the clergy ; besides the fees of confessions, bulls, burials, 
baptisms, marriages, and a thousand other sources. The infe- 
rior clergy being generally Creoles by birth, and always kept 
in subordinate grades, without the least shadow of a probabi- 
lity of rising to the superior dignities of the church, their 
minds have been soured to such a degi'ee, that they will pro- 
bably lead the van whenever the standard of independence is 
raised in the country."" 

The religion of the ancient Mexicans appears to have been 
chiefly founded on fear, the temples being decorated with the 
figures of destructive animals ; and fasts, penances, voluntary 
wounds, and tortures, formed the essence ot their rites. Hu- 
man sacrifices were deemed the most acceptable ; and every 
captive taken in war was cruelly tortured and sacrificed. The 
heart and head were the portion of the gods ; while the body 
was resigned to the captor, who, with his friends, feasted upon 
it. The extinction of such a ferocious people may not be 
worthy of much regret : but modern philosophy is apt to de- 
cide on a slight and imperfect view. 

Thus, instead of a benevolent deity, the worship of the 
Mexicahs may be said to have been directed to the evil princi- 
ple of some oriental nations, whom all their efforts were 
stretched to appease. In the Mexican language, Teotl was a 
general term for any divinity; and in obscure theory they be- 
lieved in a creator, whom they styled Ipalnemoajii, that is, 
* He by whom we live :"* but their supreme deity was rather 
that evil spirit called Klacatecolototl, or the raticynal owly 
whose deligJbt was to injure and terrify. They believed in 

4 F 



594 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

the immortality of the soul, ami a kind of transmigration ; the 
good being transformed into birds, and the bad into creeping 
animals. The principal deities were thirteen in number, 
among whom were the sun and nioon ; and Tlaloc, the god of 
water, was the master of paradise; but Mexilti, the god of 
war, received the chief aduralion. There were other gods of 
the mountains, of conmierce, &c. ; and the idols, rudely form- 
ed of clay, wood, or stone, sometimes decorated with gems and 
gold, were numerous. One was composed of certain seeds, 
pa.sted together with liuman blood. The priests wore a black 
cotton mantle, like a veil ; and there seem to have been order? 
of monks, as among die eastern nations of Asia. The austeri- 
ties and vohuitary wounds of the priests, their poisonous oint- 
ments, and other abominable rites, even as related by Clavigero, 
evince that the entire system was the most execrable that has 
ever appeared on the fac^ of the earth, alike blasphemous to 
God and pernicious to man. The whole is so totally unhke 
any system ever practised in any part of Asia, that there is 
additional cause to believe that the people were either indige- 
nal, or have proceeded from Africa, in which alone (as among 
the Giagas) such cruelties may be traced. The Asiatic reh- 
gions seem universally mild, and even gay, as natural in the 
worship of a being who is benevolence itself; while in Africa 
the preponderance of the evil spirit seems to have been ac- 
knowledged by many nations. 

Goverinncnt. — The ancient government of Mexico was an 
hereditary monarchy, tempered, however, by a kind of election 
not unknown in the barbarous ages of Europe, by which a 
brother or ne})hew of the late king was preferred to his sons. 
Despotism seems to have begun with the celebrated Montezu- 
ma. There were several royal councils, and classes of nobility, 
mostly Iiereditary. The nobles were styled ^j??'///, or tlatoam ; 
but the S})aniards introduced the general term oi cazili, which 
Clavigero says signifies a prince in the language of Hispaniola ; 
but is by some asserted to imply a priest among the Maho- 
metan Malays. Land was not supposed to belong to the mo- 
narch, but W71S alienable by the proprietors. A.s .writing was 
unknown, there was no code of laws, but Clavigero has pre- 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 595 

served some traditions on the subject. Their armour and 
tactics appear to have been extremely rude. 

The Spanish government is vested in the viceroy of Mexico, 
whose rank and power are far supeiior to those of Peru, and 
the new kingdom of Granada. 'I'he legal salary of the vice- 
roys of Mexico and Peru is now -10,000 ducats; but tlje dis- 
posal of lucrative offices, monopolies, connivances, jircsents, 
&c. sometimes swell them to an enormous amount. Tlie court 
of the viceroy is formed on tlie regal model, with horse and 
foot guards, a grand household, and numerous attendants. In 
the provinces there are tribunals called Audiences, of which 
there are eleven for Spanish America ; and the Council of the 
Indies, resident in Spain, controls even the viceroys. Some of 
the provinces seem to be merely geographic, or ecclesiastic de- 
nominations of sees, without any municipal or peculiar juris- 
diction : but some have governors appointed by the viceroy. 
Besides the laws of Spain, there are ])articular codes and sta- 
tutes, which are consulted in legal decisions. 

The government of these provmces may be termed military, 
the judgments of the inferior civil officers being subject to a 
reversion by tlie nnlitary commandants of districts. The ec- 
clesiastics indeed divide the government with the military ; but 
there exists the most perfect understanding between them, and 
they mutually assist each other in defending and extending 
their peculiar interests. 

Army. — The European troops are of the choicest regiments 
from Spain. The regular troops of the kingdom, whq are in 
the vioeroyalty, acting from the stiraidus of ambition and envy, 
i are supposed to be equal to them. The militia with the regu- 
( jar officers are likewise good troops, but are not held in such 
high estimation as the other corps. These three corps, form- 
ing a body of 23,200 men, may be called the regular force of 
the kingdom, as the militia, which amount to 139,500, would 
be of no more consequence against the regular troops of any 
civilized power, than the ancient aborigines of tlie country 
were against the army of Cortes. The appearance of the 
Spanish troops is certainly (at a distance) a la mUitaire. 
Their lances are fixed to the side of the saddle under the left 



596 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

thigh, and slant about five feet above the horse; on the right 
the carbine is slung in a case to the front of the saddle (or 
pummel) crossways, the breech to the right hand, and on each 
side of the saddle, behind the rider, is a pistol ; below the 
breech of the carbine is slung the shield, which is made of sole 
leather trebled, sewed together with thongs, with a band on 
the inside, to slip the left arm through ; those of the privates 
are round, and about two feet diameter. The dragoons of the 
viceroyalty do not make use of the lance or shield, but are 
armed, equipped, and clothed after the modern manner, as are 
also the dragoons of the eastern provinces. 

Their dress is a short blue coat, with a red cape and cuff 
without facings, leather or blue cotton velvet small clothes and 
waistcoat; the small clothes always open at the knees: the 
wrapping boot, with the jack boot and permanent spurs over 
it; abroad brimmed high crowned wool hat, with a ribbon 
round it of various colours, generally received as a present 
from some female, which they wear as a badge of the favour 
of the fair sex, and a mark of their gallantry. 

Their horses are small and slender limbed, but very agile, 
and are capable of enduring great fatigue. The equipments 
of the horses are, to our ideas, awkward, but perhaps superior 
to the English. Their bridles have a strong curb, which 
gives them a great mechanical force. The saddle is made 
after the Persian model, with a high projecting pummel, or, 
as, anciently termed, bow, and is likewise raised behind ; this 
is merely the tree. It is then covered by two or three coats of 
carved leather, and embroidered workmanship, some with gold 
and silver in a very superb manner. The stirrups are of wood 
closed in front, carved generally in the figure of a lion's head, 
or some other beast ; they are very heavy, and to us present 
a very clumsy appearance. The horseman, seated on his 
horse, has a small bag tied behind him, his blankets either 
under him or lying with his cloak between his body and the 
bow, which makes him at his ease. Thus mounted it is im- 
possible for the most vicious animals to dismount them. They 
will catch another horse, when both are running nearly at full 
speed, with a noose and hair rope, with which they will soon 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 597 

choak down the beast they are pursuing. In short, they are 
probably the most expert horsemen in the world. 

The discipline of their troops is very different from ours: 
as to tactics, or military manoeuvres, they are not held in 
much estimation. On a march, a detachment of cavalry gene- 
rally encamp in a circle. Their mode of attack is by squa- 
drons on the diff'erent flanks of their enemies, but without 
regularity or concert, shouting, halloing, and firing their car- 
bines, after which, if they think themselves equal to the ene- 
my, they charge with a pistol and then the lance. 

Such was the state of the army of Mexico previous to the 
invasion of Spain by Bonaparte. Since that period, the army 
has been completely disorganized, and is now incapable of 
maintaining the authority of the government. When the pre- 
sent tottering system is destroyed, the military spirit of the 
Mexicans may revive, and render this fine region respectable 
amongst nations. 

Navy. — The navy is that of the parent country ; but there 
are many guard ships and commercial vessels solely appropri- 
ated to the American colonies. Four corvettes of twelve guns, 
and one goletta, are stationed at Monterey, to supply the pre- 
sidencies of North California with necessaries. These vessels 
performed the Spanish expeditions to the north-west coast of 
America. 

Revenue. — The revenue which Mexico yields to the Spanish 
crown has been shewn by Dr. Robertson to amount to above a 
million sterling, but there are great expences. By the most 
recent account the total revenue derived by Spain from 
America and the Philippines is 2,700,000/. ; of w hich one half 
must be deducted for the extravagant charges of administra- 
tion. It has been asserted that the king''s fifth of the mines of 
New Spain only was two millions sterling, which would swell 
the annual produce of the Mexican mines to ten millions. Dr. 
Robertson shews, from Campomanes, that the whole produce 
of the American mines is 7,4.25,000/., of which the king''s fifth, 
if regularly paid, would be 1,485,000/.: and it is probable 
tliat the njines of New Spain or Mexico, prior to the opulent 



^98 SPANISH NOIITH AMERICA. 

discoveries in the north-west provinces, did not yield above 
one haH'oftlie whole amount. 

H'l.story. — The original population of these extensive rcjJions 
was various, consisting of Mexicans, and other tribes; coiisi- 
derably civilized in the centre, while to the north and south 
were savage races. The origin of the Mexicans remains in 
great obscurity, after the fruitless researches of many inge- 
nious and learned men. Tiieir language appears to be totally 
different from that of the Peruvians; but the Pdexican voca- 
bularies are very imperfect. There seems not, however, to be 
any resemblance between either of these languages, and that 
of the Malays, who })eopled the numerous islands in the Paci- 
fic ocean ; nor are the Tartarian, or Mandshur features to be 
traced in any account of the Mexicans or Peruvians, though 
singularly distinct from those of othei* races : yet Dr. Forster, 
in his history of the voyages of the north, supposes that these 
kingdoms were founded in the thirteenth century, by the 
troops contained in some of the ships sent by Kublai Khan 
from China, to sulxlue Japan; that great fleet having been 
scattered, and supposed to have been lost in a severe tenipest. 
But the animals of America are mo.stly distinct from those of 
the old continent, and could in no case have descended from 
them. If it cannot be allowed that the great Creator, in like 
manner, ordained a distinct race of men for this continent, it 
will be necessary, before this curious question be determined, 
to collect vocabularies of the African languages, as there are 
on that continent several nations of a copper colour, resem- 
bling the Americans ; and the Mexicans and Peruvians might 
become more civi!i;ced from mere advantages of situation and 
accident. It is, however, deeply to be regretted that these 
American empires, or kingdoms, were destroyed ; as, not to 
mention the cause of humanity, they would have afforded cu- 
rious objects for philosophic observers of human nature. The 
general opinion seems to be that the Mexicans and Peruvians 
were a distinct race from the other Americans; and, amidst a 
variety of conjectures, it might be enijuired if they did not 
proceed from Japan, or be haply of the same race with the 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 599 

people of the large island of Tclioka, or Sagalian, whose fea- 
tures, as delhieatcd by I^a Perouse and the literary men who 
accompanied him, bear no resemblance to the Tartaric. In 
this case, we may conceive that tliev are remains of a people 
in eastern Asia, who were expelled by the I\Iandsijurs, on 
their progress from more western settlements. 

The historical epochs of Mexico have been of little moment 
since it was conquered by the Spaniards in 15.'21. when the 
last monarch Guatiraozin perished, Montezuma having died 
in the preceding year. According to the Mexican traditions, 
their ancestors consisted of several savage tribes, who about 
the tenth or eleventh ccntin-y of the Christian era moved in 
successive n)igrations iVom unknown regions towards the north 
and nortii-west, and settled in Anahuac. About the begin- 
ning of the thirteenth century, a tribe, more polished than the 
rest, advanced from the borders of the Californian gulf, and 
took possession of the plains adjacent to the great lake near 
the centre of the country. Tliey were for a time governed by 
chiefs or judges, till the territories becoming more extensive, 
the supreme authority centred at last in a single person. Even 
fi'om the most extensive accoimts the monarchical government 
had not lasted above 197 years ; that is, it commenced alwut 
A. D. 1324, the jSrst monarch being Acamapitzin. Wars and 
rebellions, famines and inundations, constitute the chief fea- 
tures of Mexican hi.story ; and the Spanish government presents 
few events of moment, the natives being confined between the 
two seas, and more easily cliecked than m South America, where 
tiiere is a wide extent of territory for retreat and conspiracy. 

The extensive peninsula of California was discovered by 
Cortez in 1536, but was so completely neglected, that in most 
charts it was represented as an island. The Jesuits afterwards 
explored this province, and acquired a dominion there as com- 
plete as in Paraguay. On their expulsion in 1766, it was 
found to be a not unfertile region, with some mines of gold 
and a valuable pearl fishery. The countries of Cinaloa and 
Sonora, on the east side of the ^'ermillion sea or gulf of Cali- 
fornia, as well as the immense provinces of New Navarre, and 
others of New Mexico, never were subject to the iMexican 



600 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

sceptre, but now acknowledge the power of Spain, though the 
settlers be {"ew. In 1765, a war broke out with the savages, 
which ended in their submission, 1771. During their marches 
the Spaniards discovered at Cineguilla, in the province of So- 
nora, a plain of fourteen leagues in extent, in which vast quan- 
tities of gold were found in large lumps, at the depth of only 
sixteen inches. Before the end of the year 1771, above 2000 
persons were settled at Cineguilla ; and other mines, not infe- 
rior in wealth, have been discovered in other parts of Sonora 
and Cinaloa. It is probable that these discoveries have insti- 
gated other settlements in the northern parts of New Spain, 
and in New Mexico. These colonizations, and the settlement 
of Santa Fe, and others in that vicinity, are important events 
in the history of the Spanish territories. It is, however, to be 
lamented, that the progress of these settlements has not been 
explained with more care and accuracy, for no small obscurity 
attends their chronology. 

The Mexicans have long evinced a disposition for indepen- 
dence. In 16^24, they made a feeble attempt at a revolution. 
In 1797, they proclaimed the count de Galves king of Mexico, 
in the streets of the capital, and 130,000 souls were heard 
proclaiming, ' Long live Galves, king of Mexico."" It was then 
only for him to have willed it, and the kingdom of Mexico was 
lost to Charles IV. for ever. But preferring his loyalty to his 
ambition, he rode out to the mob, attended by his guards, 
■with his sword in hand, crying out, ' Long live his catholic 
majesty Charles the fourth," and threatening to put to instant 
death, with his own hand, any persons who refused immedi- 
ately to retire to their houses. This dispersed the people. In 
another quarter of the kingdom an immense number had col- 
lected and proclaimed him king : he sent 10,000 men against 
them, dispersed them, and had four beheaded. These firm 
measures saved the country at that period. Galves received 
the greatest honours from the court of Spain, but was poisoned 
in a short tin^e after, fulfilling the maxim, ' That it is danger- 
ous to serve jealous tyrants.*" 

The news of the overthrow of the Spanish monarchy by 
Bonaparte was received in Mexico with great indignation ; and 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. -601 

the inhabitants of the city of Mexico in eleven days subscribed 
about 700,000/. to aid their patriotic bretliren in Europe. 
But as most of the high offices in Spanish America were filled 
by the creatures of the Prince of Peace, a tool of Bonaparte'^s, 
the dread of French influence and intrigue in many places 
produced a civil war : nor did the impolitic conduct of the 
Spanish central junta tend to reconcile the enraged colonists. 
In the year 1808, t}J"e viceroy of Mexico, Harngary, was ar- 
rested and deposed by one party of the inhabitants; while the 
other party espoused and endeavoured to support his autho- 
rity : but what is very strange, the junta took part, in this in- 
stance, with the insurgents. 

Mexico had felt long and severely the impolitic and unjust 
Tneastues of Spain ; she had been inundated by men sent from 
tlience, in order to retrieve or make their fortunes by the 
plunder and oppression of the colonists The Creoles were 
neglected; and, as if neglect were not enoug'h to irritate and 
alienate them, their hopes and expectations were repeatedly 
raised by the Spanish government, and then dashed to the 
ground. Had the Spanish government been actually desirous 
of disgusting and separating the Mexicans entirely from the 
mother country, they could not have done it more effectually 
thsm by the whole tenour of the conduct they adopted. 

While things were in this critical state, an insurrection 
broke out, in September, 1810, at Dolores, a town in the pro- 
vince of Guanaxueato, in the middle of the mining district of 
Mexico. This insurrection was begun, spread, and headed 
principally by the priests ; afterwards several lawyers and mi- 
litary officers joined it; and the latter brought over some 
yegiments of the militia. This insurrection spread rapidly 
and widely : in a short time more than half the province was 
overrun by the insurgents or had joined them. Upwards of 
40,000 men were in arms ; and though they were repeatedly 
defeated, they constantly rallied and appeared with undimi- 
nished force. 

In the month of November they advanced with great confi- 
dence, and in great force, against the city of Mexico itself: 
they had previously taken the populous town of Guanaxueato. 
26 4 G 



602 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

and been received as friends by the inhabitants of Valladolid. 
Their expectations of gaininf^ possession of Mexico arose more 
from the power and intrigues of the partizans within the city 
than the force of tbeir army. But in these expectations they 
were mistaken ; for while affairs were in this precarious state, 
Venegas arrived from Spain, as viceroy of Mexico. He was a 
man pecuharly fitted for the management of the government 
at this period ; for he was possessed in an eminent degree of 
activity, firmness, and energy. He soon detected the partizans 
of the insurgents within the city of Mexico : he watched all 
their movements : he thwarted all their measures ; so that 
they had no opportunity to be of the least service to the army 
that was advancing against the city. At this period, too, the 
influence of superstition was called in ; the archbishop threat- 
ened to exconmumicate all who had joined the insurgents, if 
thev did not immediately desert them: this kept back their 
partizans within the city, and even thinned the ranks of their 
army. Venegas, however, did not depend entirely upon these 
measui'es; he collected as many troops as he could ; and, by 
his masterly dispositions, succeeded in baffling all the move- 
ments of the insvn-gents, whom he drove before him, and 
greatly weakened as well as dispirited their troops. At length 
in March, 1811, the principal leaders of the insurrection, their 
army being greatly reduced by defeat and desertion, were 
surprised at Saltillo. Notwithstanding all these disasters, the 
spirit still existed, for within a very t^ihort period of the battle 
of Saltillo, a body of 12,000 insurgents were collected near 
Queretaro, and again defeated. 

It would appear thai Venegas used his victories with great 
cruelty: he inflicted the most severe and barbarous punisli.- 
ments upon such of the insurgents as fell into his hands. In- 
deed the civil war in Mexico was attended with greater 
slaughter and cruelty than in other parts of Spanish America: 
in this province the jealousy and hatred existing between the 
Europeans and Creoles is very great; and when this jealousy 
and hatred was increased, and found room and opportunity to 
operate without restraint during the civil commotions, it may 
*»asily be supposed that their effects would be dreadful in the 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 60;i 

extreme. The country was laiil waste : every thing was de- 
stroyed that could be destroyed : houses, plantations, and even 
the miners suffered , so that even if" tranquilUt}'^ were restored, 
of which though the prospect is more Hkely, it is still very 
distant and uncertain, many years must elapse, much labour 
and capital must be expended, before the country will resume 
its former condition, or the inhabitants be restored to their 
former wealth and comforts. The destruction of the mines is 
principally to be deplored : it must necessarily require a great 
outlay of money before they can be put into a condition again 
to be wrought with ease, advantage, and profit ; and they will 
be unproductive at the very time when the mother country 
stands most in need of their wealth. 

But notwithstanding the cruelty and activity of the Spanish 
officers, the spirit of the people was not subdued. They again 
took arms, and appeared in the field against the old Spanish 
troops, which they defeated in several rencontres. In 1816, 
they became complete masters of the ])rovince of Valladolid, 
and summoned a junto, or assembly of the representatives of 
the people. They, however, were greatly in want of arms, 
and the ports on the gulf of Mexico were held by the royal 
troops. Several enterprising individuals in the western states 
of the Union associated together, and formed a rifle corps to 
assist the independents; but before they could arrive at the 
scene of action, the patriots were overpowered, and their 
armies dispersed. Still the determination to oppose the imbe- 
cile and tyrannical sway of the despicable Ferdinand continues 
to operate, and large bodies of men are yet traversing this fine 
and fertile country, defying all attempts to reduce them to 
subjection, and offering a point of union for all the resolute 
and dissatisfied that chuse to join them. But our accounts 
from this country are extremely meagre and unsatisfactory, 
and such as cannot afford any proper materials for an histo- 
rical detail. 

The situation of this opulent empire has, no doubt, occupied 
the attention of different governments ; but the critical state 
of affairs, both in Eiu'ope and America, has prevented the 
adoption of any measures which might throw the riches of 



604 SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 

Mexico into their power. Captain Pike, an American, who 
was sent in 1807 by his government to explore Louisiana, was 
arrested by the Spaniards, and conveyed into New Spam, an 
account of which he pubhshed on his return. In his remarks 
on th« poUtical situation of the Mexican dominions, he ob- 
serves, that the conduct of England, in her late descent at La 
Plata, has induced the Mexicans to turn their views for assist- 
ance to other quarters. ' They have,' he proceeds, « directed 
their eyes towards the United States, as brethren of the same 
soil in their vicinity ; who have within their power ample re- 
sources of arms, ammunition, and even men, to assist in se- 
curing their independence; and who in that event would 
secure to themselves the almost exclusive trade of the richest 
country in the world for centuries, and to be her carriers as 
long as the two nations exist. For Mexico, like China, will 
never become a nation of mariners, but must receive the ships 
of all the world into her ports, and give her bullion in ex- 
change for the productions of their different countries. What 
would not be the advantages the United States would reap 
from this event ? Our numerous vessels would fill every poi"t, 
and from our vicinity enable us to carry off at least nine-tenths 
of her commerce. Even on the coast of the Pacific no Eu- 
ropean nation could vie with us : there would also be a brisk 
inland trade carried on with the southern provinces by the 
Red river; and having a free entrance into all their ports, we 
should become their factors, agents, guardians, and, in short, 
their tutelar genius; as the country fears but hates France 
and all French men and measures. It therefore remains for 
the government of the United States to decide, whether they 
will hold out a helping hand, to emancipate another portion ot 
the western hemisphere from the bonds of European tyrarm) 
and oppression, or by a different policy suffer 600,000 people 
to become, in the hands of French intrigue, enterprise, and 
tactics, a scourge to our south-western boundaries, which 
would oblige us to keep up a large and respectable militaiv 
force, and continually render us liable to a war, on the weake.-t 
•md most vulnerable part of our frontiers.' 



SPANISH NORTH AMERICA. 605 

Such are the opinions of an American writer, though they 
do not coincide with the present pohtics of the United States. 
Mr. Cobbett has also addressed a memorial to the prince re- 
gent of England, pointing out the advantages which would 
result from the Mexicans conquering their independence, and 
the ease vvith which it might be accomplished with the assist- 
ance of England. Such views, however, under existing cir- 
cumstances, are quite inadmissible. 

If the aiFairs of Spain were conducted upon the principles 
of wisdom and sound policy, the emancipation of Mexico 
would be instantly and voluntarily declared, for which an an- 
nual tribute might be procured even more considerable than 
the present revenue. The resources of this rich and extensive 
country are in a great measure absorbed by useless offices and 
emoluments, and the extortions of powerful individuals; and 
the remainder is swallowed up by vast bodies of priests, who, 
in return, endeavour to amuse'and stupify the people by reli- 
gious processions, festivals, and a variety of holy mumvnerlcs. 
The march of knowledge is, however, though gradual, sure 
and irresistible, and the people are beginning to perceive the 
nature of their rights and duties. Their attempts to conquer 
their political independence will not, in the present state of 
things, be easily repressed. The success of the patriots in 
South America will be a sure prelude to their own triumph. 
Were they to remain subject to the creature which at present 
rules in Spain, it is probable that they would ultimately be 
compelled to receive the law from their more politic, coiu'age- 
ous, and enterprising neighbours, the inhabitants of the States. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 



-=--!SS:!^::^; S: «:!::i™n 



r[^HIS vast continent has now become an object of peculiar 
interest, and the theatre of the most gaHant acliievements. 
We will first take a view of the natural and civil state of its 
various divisions, and then describe the different governments 
into which it is now divided, Avith the efforts making to pro^ 
mote the general cause against Spain. 



SPANISH DOMINIONS. 

Extent and Boundaries. 'PHE possessions of Spain in the 

southern part of America, are of 
prodigious extent, from the Caribbean sea to the most south- 
ern promontory, according to the Spanish geographers; but 
the English maps seem justly to regard the regions to the 
south-east, inhabited by the Tehuels and other tribes confess- 
edly independent, as excluded from the Spanish domain. In 
this point of view, the eastern shore, from the south of the 



SOUTH AMERICA. 607 

great river Parana, is open to the settlements of any foreign 
nation ; and on the west the Spanish boundary ends at the 
gulf of Chonos, south lat. 44 deg. The remaining length 
may be 3360 geographical miles ; but the medial breadth is 
not above 900. The whole length of the Spanish possessions 
in America may thus be computed at more than 5000 geogra- 
phical miles ; though not equal in extent, yet far superior, in 
every other respect, to the Asiatic empire of Russia. On the 
east, the boundary between the Spanish possessions and those 
(jf the Dutch and Portuguese is sometimes ascertained by 
ridges of mountains and rivers, but often consists of an ideal 
line, observed upon a map at one glance, while a verbal de- 
scription would be unnecessarily prolix. In general, the Por- 
tuguese territory in South America is perhaps equal in extent 
to the Spanish, compensating by its breadth, which includes 
the far greater part of the Maranon, for the deficiency in 
length. 

Zoology. — The chief topics of natural geography have al- 
ready been discussed in the general view of South America. 
A singular circumstance in the zoology is the great abundance 
of horses and cattle, though originally unknown to the new 
continent ; these surprising herds having been multiplied from 
a few that were turned loose by the first settlers. The cattle 
are so numerous that they are hunted merely on account of 
the hides. An author, who resided twenty-two years in Pa- 
raguay, informs us, that they equal the Hungarian in size, the 
standard length of the hide being three ells. The great num- 
bers have lately been thiimed by the thoughtless avarice of 
the hunters. Horses are also very numerous: and mules 
being indispensible in the alpine countries, where they cannot 
be reared, about 80,000 are annually sent from the plains of 
Paraguay to Peru. To procure this mixed breed, young 
asses are clothed in the fresh skins of foals, and introduced to 
the mares as their own offspring. Flocks of European sheep 
also abound ; but of this animal some species are peculiar to 
America. Such is the llama, or more properly ru7ia, for 
llama merely implies a beast or quadruped, which resembles a 
small camel, and will carry any load under a hundred weight. 



608 SOUTH AMERICA. 

The vicuna is somewhat smaller, with shorter and finer wool ; 
and of a brown colour, while the others are various. The 
guanaca, on the contrary, is a larger and coarser animal th^n 
the runa, and chiefly employed in the minhig countries, where 
other animals could not pass the precipitous paths. Among 
the ferocious animals are distinguished those called by BafFon 
the jaguar, by other writers the tiger ; and the cougar, by 
some called the American Uon. The latter is of a reddish 
brown colour, while the former is marked with black spots 
upon a yellowish ground. But from Buftbn''s account of the 
jaguar, it is evident that he only judged from a small animal, 
probably sent from French Guiana ; but Dobrizhoff'er informs 
us, that as the lions of Africa far exceed those of Paraguay 
(the cougars) in size and ferocity, so the Afi'ican tigers yield 
in magnitude to those of Paraguay. He saw the skin of one 
killed the day before, which was three ells and two inches in 
length, or equal to that of a large ox ; but he adds, the body 
is more slender than that of an ox. According to the same 
author, they kill and carry off oxen and horses ; and he gives 
such singular instances of their strength as 'to evince the error 
of Buifbn's theory. Other animals are, the wild cat, the elk, 
the huanaeo, or guanaca, already mentioned, the ant-bear, &e. 
In the great river Maranon there appears to be a species of 
liippopotamus. In the alps towards Tucuman the condor is 
not unfrequent, seemingly a kind of vulture, with a red crest, 
the body being black, spotted with white. The ostrich is also 
found in the wide plains of Paraguay. 

Botany. — The natural productions of the country east of the 
Andes is as yet nearly unknown to European science. We 
know, from the reports of navigators and occasional travellers, 
that the vicinity of the coast produces many of the tropical 
fruits and vegetables, such as the cabbage palm, the cocoa nut, 
the chocolate nut, the cotton shrub, the pine apple, the canna, 
amomum, turmeric, plantain, and sugar-cane. But in the 
more temperate climate of the high plain of Quito, and upon 
the sides of the Andes, it is natural to expect plants of a har- 
dier constitution. Perhaps the best known and most generally 
interesting of the trees are the several species of cinchona, from 



SOUTH AMERICA. 609 

two of which at least that valuable niMiclne the Peruvian or 
Jesuits' bark is procurer!. The cardana alliodora is a large 
timber tree, remarkable for the strong smell of garlic emitted 
from the leaves and fresh wood. A kind of coffee, the coffiea 
rccemosa, is met with in the mountainous groves of the inte- 
rior, whose berries are applied to the same use as the culti- 
vated species. The large flowered jasmine and datura arborea 
diffuse their evening fragrance round the neighbourhood of 
Lnna, and braided in the hair of the women give and receive 
a reciprocal charm. No^ less than twenty-four species of pep- 
per, and five or six of capsicum, are reckoned among the Pe- 
ruvian natives, besides ss^eral esculent kinds of solanum, of 
which the S. lycopersicon or love-apple, and S. tuberosum or 
potatoe, are the best known and most esteemed. The tobacco 
and jalap abound in the groves at the foot of the Andes, and 
many of the ornamental flowers of our English gardens and 
green-houses, such as" the singular and beautiful calceolaria, 
the resplendent salvia longiflora, the graceful trapoelum, or 
nasturtium, and the simple nolana prostrata, are indebted to 
these countries for their orio-in. 

Mineralogy.— The mineralogy of these extensive regions 
is universally celebrated as the most important in the world. 
In most accounts the mines of silver have been described at 
great length, while Brazil is considered as the chief country of 
American gold. But the noblest metal also abounds in the 
Spanish possessions here, as well as in Mexico: and Gmelin 
has specially enumerated the following places in Peru and 
Chill : Copiapo, Quasco, Coquimbo, Petorca, Ligua, Tiltil. 
,Putaendo, Caren, Alhue, Chibato, and Huilli-Patagua. Ull 
Ilea informs us that the department of Popayan abounds in 
I mines of native gold; the richest being those of Cali, Buo-a, 
lAlmaguer, and Barbacoas; and there ai-e also several mines 
'in the noted district of Choco, some of which were abandoned 
!Dh account of the abundance of platina, a more l-are and sin- 
singular metal than gold, but at first, as appears from Bouguer, 
j-nistaken for an obdurate pyrites. Other gold mines were 
hear Zaruma, wdthin the jurisdiction of Loxa; and some in 
lie government of Jaen Bracamoros. Near tlie village of 

4 H 



610 SOUTH AMERICA. 

Angamarca, in the jurisdiction of Latacunga, was a mine of 
prodigious value. Gold is also found in the sand of many 
rivers that flow into the INIaranon. But the state of the mines 
of Buenos Ayres, as published by Helms, will convey a com- 
plete idea of this subject ; and it thence appears that the silver 
mines are there far more productive than those of gold, except 
the produce returned to St. Jago de Catagoita, about 30 miles 
to the south of Potosi. Those of silver being more numerous, 
and more easily worked, have excited the chief attention of the 
indolent colonists. 

The celebrated mountain of Potosi has presented, for two 
centuries and a half, inexhaustible treasures of silver; while 
the gold seems thinly scattered by nature, and has no where 
been discovered in such enormous masses. Hence, if the noted 
plain of Cineguilla in North America be excepted, there is 
hitherto no example of any gold mine eminently rich, far less 
rivalling the proud reputation of Potosi. This mountain, of 
a conic form, is about 20 British miles in circumference, and 
perforated by more than 300 rude shafts, through a firm yel- 
low argillaceous schistus. There are veins of ferrumnous 
quartz, interspersed with what are called the horn and vi- 
treos ores. Of a pecuHar dark reddish colour, this mountain 
rises void of all vegetation, blasted by the numerous furnaces, 
which in the night form a grand spectacle. This surprising 
mine was discovered, 1545, by Hualpa, a Peruvian, who in 
pursuing some chamoys pulled up a bush, and beheld under 
the root that amazing vein of silver afterwards called la rica, 
or the rich. He shared this discovery with his friend Huanca, 
who revealed it to a Spaniard his master ; and the mine was 
formally registered 21st April, 1545. 

Another celebrated mine is that of mercury, indispensible in 
amalgamating tlie precious metals. While Mexico is supplied 
from Spain, Peru has the native product of Guancavelica, a 
district and town not far to the south-west of Lima, near the 
great bend of the old Maranon. The cinnabar had been used 
by the Peruvians as a red paint; and the quicksilver was first 
detected about 1567. The mine is now so large that there 
are said to be streets, and chapels where mass is celebrated. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 611 

This mineral seems also to be in argillaceous schistus of a pale 
red. 

Platina is chiefly found in tlie mines of Choco and Barbacoas, 
in tlie vicerojalty of New Granada. Tin, according to Helms, 
is found at Chajanza and Paria ; and there are also several 
mines of copper and lead. The chief copper mine was at 
Aroa ; but the colonies are mostly supplied from the mines of 
Cuba. Among the' other minerals may be mentioned the gal- 
linazo stone, so called from its black colour, being a volcanic 
glass or obsidian, sometimes confounded with the Inca stone 
or mirror of the Incas, both being used as looking-glasses. 
According to Ulloa, the Inca stone is of a leaden colour and 
soft, being probably a marcasite or pyritical mixture, not yet 
analyzed. In the time of the Incas emeralds were also com- 
mon, chiefly on the coast of Manta, and in the government of 
Atacames, where it is said that there are mines which the In- 
dians will not reveal, as they must encounter the labour of 
working them. The river of Emeralds flows from the Andes 
to the north of Quito : and others of inferior quality are found 
near Bogota, where are the chief modern mines of Peruvian 
emeralds, justly preferred to all others, since those of Egypt 
have been neglected. Those found in the tombs are Avorked 
into spheres, cylinders, cones, and other figures, and pierced 
with great precision ; but in what manner this was accom- 
plished reniains unknown. According to Ulloa, rubies have 
also been observed in the jurisdiction of Cuenza, It is unne- 
cessary to mention the abundance of sulphur, bitumen, and 
vitriol, or sulphate of iron, commercially called copperas. 

Population. — It is probable that the population of the Spa- 
nish possessions in South America is about 9,000,000. The 
use of spirituous liquors, and the small pox, with another en- 
demial disease, which acts at intervals like a pestilence, ob^ 
struct the increase of the natives. The Spaniards and Creoles 
are far more numerous in New Spain than in South America, 
where it is probable they do not exceed 2,000,000. The ne- 
groes may constitute about a twentieth part of the population. 
As the Spaniards have no settlements in Africa, their colonies 
were chiefly supplied by the Dutch and English; but since 



612 SOUTH AMERICA. 

the abolition of the slave trade in England, the Portuguese 
and Spaniards have carried slaves to their own settlements. 

Manners and Customs. — Among the native nations, the 
Peruvians are by far the most interesting, having in some in- 
stances advanced nearer to civilization than* the Mexicans. 
The llama, which may be called a small camel, had been ren- 
dered subservient to their industry; and their buildings, 
erected of stone, still remain, while of the earthen edifices of 
the Mexicans, even the ruins have perished. The history of 
the Peruvian monai'chs is indeed vague and unsatisfactory, 
the noted quipos somewhat resembling the wampum of the 
North Americans, being brief and transitory records. The 
government of the Incas was a kind of theocracy, and the in- 
habitants revered a divine descent, not claimed by the Mexican 
monarchs. The religion of the Peruvians was that of love 
and beneficence ; while the Mexicans seem, in their cruel rites, / 
to have been wholly influenced by the fear of malignant deities/ 
Some sacrifices of the smaller animals, and offerings of fruits 
and flowers, formed the chief rites of Peruvian superstition. 

The Mexican monarchy was founded by the sword, the Pe- 
ruvian by superiority of wisdom ; and the captives taken in 
war were not immolated, but instructed in the arts of civiliza- 
tion. An excellent writer justly pronounces, that the Pe- 
ruvians had advanced far beyond the Mexicans, both in the 
necessary arts of life, and in such as have some title to the 
name of elegant. Manures and irrigation were not unknown, 
though a kind of mattock formed the chief instrument of agri- 
culture. Their edifices were sometimes of bricks hardened in 
the sun ; but others were constructed of large stones, the W'alls, 
however, never exceeding twehe feet in height. The great 
roads between Cuzco and Quito are indeed slight and perisha- 
ble when compared with European exertions; yet become 
wonderful, when estimated witii the other parts of savage 
America. Their weapons and ornaments also display np 
small degree of skill, particularly in cutting and piercing eme- 
ralds, a gem of great hardness. Amidst all these laudable 
qualities, it is to be regretted, that superstition led them to 
sacrifice numerous victims on the death of a chief; and a fa- 



SOUTH AMERICA. 613 

vouvite monarch was sometimes followed to the tomb by a 
thousand slaughtered servants. Had the conquest of America 
been effected by the Spaniards at a period like the present, 
when European warfare has lost half its ferocity, the Peruvian 
monarchy might have been respected and preserved, for in the 
other parts of South America tlierc is a superabundance of the 
precious metals to satiate the utmost wish of avarice. Whe- 
ther the ruHng people be chiefly cut off, or from the mere de- 
pression of slavery, it is impossible to discover in tlie manners 
of the Peruvian natives any marks of their ancient advance- 
ment. The methodical tyranny exercised over them is very 
severe. They are reduced to become even the slaves of slaves ; 
for the Spaniards encourage their negroes to treat them with 
the greatest insolence; and they pohtieally keep up a rancour, 
now grown inveterate, betvveen these two races of people. 
They are forbidden, under the severest penalties, to marry, or 
to have an unlawful intercourse together. Division is the 
great instrument to which the Spaniards trust for the preser- 
vation of their colonies. The native Spaniard alone has all 
the hicrative offices, civil, ecclesiastical, and military. He de- 
spises the Creolian, The Creolian hates and envies him. 
Both condemn and maltreat the Indians, who, on their side, 
are not insensible of the indignities they suffer. The blacks 
arc encouraged to trample on the Indians, and to consider 
their interests as altogether opposite ; while the Indians, in 
their nominal freedom, look with an envious disdain upon the 
slavery of the negroes, which makes them their masters. 

What is extraordinary, the S])aniards, not content with re- 
ducing this unhappy nation under so cruel a yoke, as if they 
thought it nothing unless they were thoroughly sensible of its 
vv-'eight, suffer the Indians to celebrate an annual festival, in 
which plays are represented, commemorating the overthrow of 
their own state. These are acted with ail the horrid and ag- 
gravating clrcmnstances which attended this event; and the 
people are at this time so enraged, that the Spaniards find it 
dangerous to go abroad. In the city of Lima, there is annu- 
ally celebrated a festival of this kind, with a grand procession, 
wherejn they can-y in a sort of triumph the i-emaining de- 



614. SOUTH AMERICA. 

scendant of the Incas of Peru, and his wife ; who at that time 
receive all imaginable honours in the most melancholy pomp, 
from a race bowed down with the sense of the common bond- 
age of prince and people. This throws the most affecting 
gloom over the festival, that renews the image of their former 
freedom. To this remaining Inca the viceroy of Peru does 
homage when he enters upon his government. The Inca sits 
upon a lofty stage, and the viceroy makes his obeisance upon 
a horse, who is taught to kneel upon the occasion. This 
manner of proceeding may be thought of the most refined 
strain of insolent tyranny, and to be as impolitic as it is insult- 
ing; but it is not impossible that those vents, which they 
suffer the indignation of the people to take, may carry off a 
spirit that might otherwise break out in a much more fatal 
manner. Whether by the division they keep up, or by these 
vents, or by the management of the clergy, or by whatever 
means, the Spaniards preserve their conquests with very little 
force : the Indians are even armed, and make a considerable 
part of their militia : it is true they are interdicted the use of 
weapons Avithout licence ; but licence is procured without 
much difficulty. They have likewise a large number of free 
blacks, and they too are formed into companies in their militia. 
Certain it is that, both in the Spanish and Portuguese colo- 
nies, they find slavery compatible enough with great licence in 
some respects, and both with the security of the masters. 
Things deserving our consideration ; as we do not seem to 
excel in the conciliating arts of government in our colonies, 
nor to think that any thing is to be effected by other instru- 
ments than those of terror and rude force. 

The manners of the Spaniards in South America are similar 
to those in Mexico; and do not partake of any peculiar trait 
worthy of observation. 

Language. — The language of the ruling people in Peru was 
called Quichua, and it is still cultivated by the Spanish clergy, 
as indispensable in the conversion of the natives. The sounds 
6, d,f^ g, r, are wanting ; but when the Spanish grammarians 
add the x and z, they forget tliat their x is an h, or sh, and 
their s is equally expresed by c. The grammar of this Ian- 



SOUTH AMERICA. 615 

guage, and it is said even that of the Tehuels, is nearly as 
varieoated and artificial as the Greek, whence our wonder at 
the refinement of the Sanscrit may perhaps suffer considera- 
ble abatement. 

Cities and Tozvns. — In describing the chief cities in the im- 
mense regions of Spanish America, it will be most conducive 
to perspicuity, to arrange them according to the grand divi- 
sions to which they belong. A brief account of these divisions 
will also, with propriety, precede the account of the cities 
which they contain. 

Peru. — The viceroyalty of Peru comprehends the audiency 
of Lima, the province of La Paz, and the ])residency of San 
Yago. This presidency is, however, separated from the other 
parts of the viceroyalty by the ^pudiency of Charcas, which 
belongs to the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres. The two former 
occupy the principal part of the ancient Peru. 

This great empire, the foundation of which by the Incas 
remains enveloped in the obscurity of a series of fables, and of 
an uncertain tradition, has lost much of its local grandeur 
since the time when it was stripped, on the north side, of the 
provinces which form the kingdom of Quito, and afterwards 
of those which, towards the east, constitute the viceroyalty of 
Buenos A3a'es. Its present extent in length runs, north and 
south, over a space of from 1260 to 1350 miles, from 2 deg. 
to nearly 23 deg. of south lat. ; and its greatest breadth is 
from 800 to 360 miles, east and west, i. e. about 13 degrees of 
west long. The river of Guayaquil divides it from the new 
kingdom of Grenada on the north side. The depopulated 
territory of Atacama separates it from the kingdom of Chili 
towards the south. Another horrible desert, of more than 
1500 miles extent, separates it towards the east from the pro- 
vinces of Paraguay and Buenos Ayres ; and, last, the Pacific 
ocean washes its western shores. 

A chain of barren and rugged mountains; several sandy 
plains, which in a manner reach from one extremity of the 
coast to the other ; and several lakes, of many leagues in ex- 
tent, some of which are situated on the summits of the above 
chain of mountains, occupy a great part of the Peruvian terri- 



616 SOUTH AMERICA. 

tory. Throughout, the breaks and tlie vallies, which enjoy 
the benefit of h'rigation, present to the view an extensive range 
of dehghtful plains, replete with villages and towns, and the 
climate of which is highly salubrious. That of the elevated 
spots of La Sierra is extremely cold. In the pampas, or 
plains, of Bombou, Fahrenheit''s thermometer is constantly at 
from 34 to 40 degrees above zero. 

There are three cities in Peru famous for their opulence 
and trade ; Uma, Cusco, and Quito, Lima lies in the north- 
ern part of Peru, in the latitude of 12 deg. south, and 299 
east longitude from TcnerifFe. It stands about two leagues 
from the sea, upon a river called Rimac, small and unnaviga- 
ble. This city is the capital of Peru, and of all South Ame- 
rica; it extends in length alaout two miles, and in breadth 
about one quarter ; its distant appearance, fi^om the multitude 
of spires and domes, is extremely majestic ; and when you 
enter it, you see the streets laid out with the greatest regular- 
ity, cutting each other at equal distances and right angles ; 
the houses, on account of the equality of the climate, are 
slightly roofed, as they are built low and of light materials, to 
avoid the consequences of earthquakes, frequent and dreadful 
in this country] But they are elegantly plastered and painted 
on the outside, so as to have all the appearance of freestone. 
To add to the beauty and convenience of this city, most 
houses have a garden, watered by cuts drawn from the river; 
each man commands a little running stream for his own use ; 
in a hot and dry country, as this is, no small matter of conve- 
nience and delight. Here is a grand walk by the river side, 
200 fathoms long, consisting of five rows of fine orange trees. 
To this the company resorts at five in the evening, drawn in 
their coaches and calashes. Such is the opulence of this city, 
that, exclusive of coaches, there are kept in it upwards of 5000 
of these carriages. The royal square is extremely handsome, 
and in the middle is placed a beautiful fountain of bronze, 
surmounted by an image of Fame, executed in a very good 
style. This s(|uare is from 500 to 600 feet in length, and is 
surrounded by superb edifices. 



SOUTH AMERICA. HIT 

The climate is here healthy, and extremely agreeable ; ami 
though no rain falls, the ground is watered by a gentle dew- 
termed garna ; a variety of the most delicious fruits abound 
in the vicinity of Lima ; and, in short, nothing is here wanting 
which can contribute to the comfort or the luxury of the in- 
habitants. 

Lima is divided into four quarters, and contains 'ABo streets 
and 3641 houses. The population is estimated at 57,627 
souls; of which number, 17,215 are Spaniards, 3219 Indians, 
8960 negroes, and the remainder people of colour. 

It is evident that the number of inhabitants bears no pro- 
portion to the extent of the place, which in this climate is at 
first matter of surprise; but the cause becomes pretty obvious, 
when the great mortality of children, the frequent earthquakes, 
and total want of productive means of livelihood in this appa- 
rently brilliant metropolis, are taken into consideration. 

Lima has fifty -four churches, taking in the cathedral, the 
parochial, and conventual ; thirteen monasteries of men (be- 
sides six colleges of Jesuits), one of which contains 700, and 
another 500 friars and servants ; twelve nunneries, the princi- 
pal of which has not less than 300 nuns ; and twelve hospitals, 
besides foundations for the portioning of poor girls. There is 
one university in Lima, dedicated to St. Mark. 

This city is the residence of a viceroy, who is president of 
the royal audience : besides an ecclesiastical tribunal, there is 
also a supreme tribunal of audience, composed of a president, 
a fiscal, and two examiners. A treasury is established here 
for receiving the duty on the produce of the mines, as well as 
all the taxes paid by the Indians to the king of Spain. Two 
newspapers ai'e published at Lima. The * Gazeta de Lima,' 
which appears twice a week, and is exactly similar to the 
* Gazeta de Madrid,' and the annual ' Quia Politica, Ecclesias- 
tica, y MiUtar," in 12mo., which, besides the calendar, and a 
list of civil and military officers, contains much valuable geo- 
graphical and statistical information. 

Nothing can give a true idea of the vast wealth of Lima, 
except the churches, which the most judicious travellers speak 

4 1* 



618 SOUTH AMERICA. 

of with astonishment, and seem incapable of describing, on ac- 
count of tliat amazing profusion of gold, silver, and precious 
stones with which every thing (even the walls) is in a manner 
totally covered. The tide of this vast wealth is fed from 
sources as copious ; this city being the great magazine for all 
the plate of Peru, which is coined here ; for the large manu- 
factures and natural products of that kingdom ; for those of 
Chili ; and for all the luxuries and conveniences brought fi'om 
Europe and the East Indies. 

The trade carried on by the merchants of Lima, is repre- 
sented by Alcedo to be very extensive ; but this author appears 
to have overlooked the great decay of this trade, occasioned by 
the growing prosperity of Buenos Ayres, which is much more 
conveniently situated for the European commerce. Besides, 
the government has established at this last place, a magazine 
for the produce of the mines of Potosi and La Plata; these 
are now conveyed thither by the Pilomayo, and the river La 
Plata, which is a much shorter and more secure route than 
that of Lima. 

The beauty of the situation^ the fertility of the soil, the 
mildness of the climate, and the riches of the inhabitants of 
Lima, ai'e not, however, sufficient to compensate for the conti- 
nual dangers with which they are menaced. Lima continued 
in great splendour luitil the year 1747, when a most tremen- 
dous earthquake, which entirely devoured Callao, the port be- 
longing to it, laid three-fourths of this city level with the 
ground. The destruction of Callao was the most perfect and 
terrible that can be conceived ; no more than one of all the 
inhabitants escaping, and he by a providence the most singular 
and extraordinary imaginable. This man was on the fort that 
overlooked the harbour, going to strike the flag, when he per- 
ceived the sea to retire to a considerable distance ; and then 
swelling mountain high, it returned with great violence. The 
inhabitants ran from their houses in the utmost terror and 
confusion ; he heard a cry of Miserere rise from all parts of 
the city ; and immediately all was silent ; the sea had entirely 
overwhelmed this city, and buried it for ever in its bosom : 



SOUTH AMERICA. GW 

but the same \va\ e which destroved the city, dro\'G a httle boat 
by the place where the man stood, into which he threw him- 
self, and was saved. 

Whilst this town subsisted, it contained about 3000 inha- 
bitants of all kinds, had five convents, and possessed the finest 
port of all Peru. Here were the rich warehouses furnished 
with all the goods of Europe, which being landed by the gal- 
leons at Porto Bello, were brought over land to Panama, and 
thence transported bv the armadillo, or Heet, with a convoy of 
three men of war reserved for tiiis purpose. To this poi't ar- 
rived the annual ship from Acapulco, loaden with all the pro- 
ducts of the east ; from Chili it received vast quantities of corn, 
dried beef and pork, leather, tallow, plank, and several sorts 
of woollen goods, particularly carpets like those of Turkey. 
Fiom the southern ports of Peru wei*e brought sugars, wine 
and brandy, naval stoi-es, cacoa, Virginia wool, and tobacco. 
From Mexico it had pitch and tar, woods for dyeing, and that 
balsam which we improperly call of Peru, since it comes fron^ 
Giiatimala. 

The province of Quitu is perhaps one of the most singular 
and interesting countries in the universe. The valley of Quito 
is situated 1460 toises above the level of the sea, which is 
higher than the tops of the most elevated mountains of Pyre- 
nees. A double range of mountains surround this delightful 
valley ; though under the equator, an eternal spring reigns in 
this favoured spot ; the trees are perpetually clothed with lux- 
uriant foliage, and loaded with fruits of every species; it 
abounds with animals, the wool of which is employed in the 
manufiictiue of stuffs, which form its principal article of com- 
merce with Peru. They likewise manufacture in this city 
cotton cloth, ecjual in fineness to that w Inch they receive fi"om 
England. The province every where aboundsSvith mines of 
gold, silver, copper, and other metals ; there are also several 
mines of quicksilver, rubies, amethysts, emeralds, rock crystal, 
and of beautifid marble of different qualities. 

The labouring classes of the inhabitants of the city of Quito 
are industrious, and have attained to considerable perfection in 
ipany arts and manufactures, particularly in those of woollen 



C^H) SOUTH AMERICA. 

and cotton cloths, which they dye l)lue, and dispose of in the 
different cities and villages of Peru. The number of the in- 
habitants of this city is estimated at 50,000, of which the ma- 
jority are Mestizes, the offspring of native Indians and Spa- 
ninrds. It is governed by a president, and in it is held the 
supreme court of justice: it is likewise a bishop's see. The 
inequalities of the ground on which it stands are so great, as 
to render the use of carriages inadmissible. The houses are 
constructed of brick, and seldom exceed two stories in height. 

But this fertile and smiling country is not the abode of 
safety and tranquillity. ' Unfortunate people V says the elo- 
quent Marmontel, when sj)eaking of the inhabitants of Quito; 
' Unfortunate people ! whom the fertility of this deceitful land 
has drawn together; its flowers, its fruits, and its luxuriant 
harvests, cover an abyss underneath their feet. The fecundity 
of the soil is produced by the exhalations of a devouring fire; 
its increasing fertility fore})odes its luin, and it is in the very 
bosom of abundance that we behold engulphed its thoughtless 
and happy possessors.' 

M. Humboldt, who visited the city of Quito in 1802, de- 
scribes the effects })roduced in its vicinity by the dreadful 
earthquake which occurred in 1797. ' Quito,'' says this tra- 
veller, ' is a handsome city, but the atmosphere is always 
cloudy ; the neighbouring mountains are o)ily covered with a 
scanty verdui'c, and the cold is very considerable. The tre- 
mendous earthquake of February, 1797, which desolated the 
whole province, and swallowed up from 35 to 40,000 indivi- 
duals, was also fatal to the inhab/itants of this capital. Such 
was the change produced l)y it on the temperature of the air, 
that Reaumar's thermometer, which at present fluctuates from 
4 to 10 deg., and rarely ascends to 16 deg. or 17 deg., con- 
stantly stood, previous to that catastrophe, at 15 or 16 deg. 
Since this period, likewise, the province under consideration 
has been constantly subject to more or less violent shocks; 
and it is not improbable that all the elevated parts of it form 
a single volcano. The mountains of Cotopaxi and Pinchincha 
are only small summits, of which the craters form the different 
funnels, all terminating in the same cavity. The earthquake 



SOUTH AMERICA. 621 

of 179T unfortunatelv affords but too convincing a proof of the 
justness of this hypothesis, since, during that dreadful occur- 
rence, the earth opened in all directions, and ejected sulphur, 
water, &c. Notwithstanding the recollection of this afflicting 
event, and a probability of a recurrence of similar dangers, the 
inhabitants of Quito are said to be gay, lively, and amiable ; 
their city is the abode of luxury and voluptuousness, and in 
no other place can there be displayed a more decided taste for 
amusements of every description.'' 

Cusco, the capital of the ancient empire, is still a very con- 
siderable city ; it is at a good distance from the sea, and situ- 
ated in the "mountainous part of the country: it has not less 
than 40,000 inliabitants, three parts Indians, who are very in- 
dustrious and ingenious. Though little instructed in the art, 
a taste for painting prevails, and some performances of the In- 
dians of Cusco and Quito have met with applause in Italy. 
An incredible quantity of pictures are painted here, and are 
dispersed all over Peru and Chili. They have here likewise 
manufactures of bays and cotton, and they work largely in 
leather. 

New Grenada.— This viceroyalty was established in 1718. 
It comprehends Terra Firma, Panama, Veraguay, to which 
has also been added the province of Quito. This immense di- 
vision presents a great variety of surface. Terra Firma, 
though on the coast, is the most unpleasant and most un- 
healthful country in the torrid zone : yet the plain grounds 
are remarkably fertile, and produce corn enough when culti- 
vated, all kinds of the tropical fruits, rich drugs, cacoa, vanilla, 
indigo, pimento, guaiacum, sar.saparilla, and balsam of Peru. 
No country abounds more in rich and luxuriant pasturage, or 
has a greater stock of black cattle. Their rivers have rich 
golden sands; their coasts have good pearl fisheries; and 
their mines formerly yielded great quantities of gold : but at 
present they are neglected or exhausted ; so that the principal 
wealth of this kingdou) arises from the commerce of Carthage- 
na ; and what treasure is seen there is mostly the return for 
European commodities which are sent from that port to Santa 
Fe, Popayao, and Quito. Its chief city is Panama. 



62a SOUTH AMERICA. 

The city of Panama is situated upon one of the best har- 
bours, in all respects, of the South seas. Ships of burden He 
safe at some distance from the town ; but smaller vessels come 
up to the walls. In the bay is a pearl fishery of great value. 
The town, one of the largest in America, is said to contain 
5000 houses, elegantly built of brick and stone, disposed in a 
semicircular form, and enlivened with the spires and domes of 
several churches and monasteries. It is covered on the land 
side with an agreeable country, diversified with hills, valleys, 
and woods. The town stands upon a dry and tolerably 
healthful ground, and has a great and profitable trade with 
Peru, Chili, and the western coast of Mexico, chiefly for pro- 
visions of every sort, both of the animal and vegetable kinds ; 
corn, wine, sugar, oil, with tallow, leather, and Jesuits' bark. 
In the neighbourhood of this city they raise nothing; and yet, 
by traffic and their convenient situation, there are few cities 
more abundantly supplied with all things for necessity, conve- 
nience, or luxury. Their trade with the Terra Firma and 
with Europe is carried on over the isthmus of Darien, and by 
the river Chagra. 

Carthagcna is the second town of consideration in Terra 
Firma, and stands upon a peninsula, that encloses one of the 
best defended harbours in all Spanish America. The town 
itself is well fortified, and built after the elegant fashion of 
most of the Spanish American towns, with a square in the 
middle, and streets running every way regularly from it, and 
others cutting these at right angles. This town has many 
rich churches and convents, that of the Jesuits is particularly 
magnificent. Here it is that the galleons on their voyage 
from Spain put in first, and dispose of a considerable part of 
their cargo ; which from hence is distributed to St. Martha, 
the Caraccas, Venezuela, and most of the other provinces and 
towns in the Terra Firma. 

yiceroyaUy of La Plata. — This portion of South America 
may be said to consist of four distinct and grand divisions ; 
viz. that of Buenos Ayres; the government of Paraguay pro- 
per, and Tucuman ; the audiency of Charcas, or the detached 
provinces adjoining Peru ; with New Chili, or the provinces 



SOUTH AMERICA. 

of Chili which lie to the east of the Andes, and do not belong 
to the presidency of St. Jago. 

The province of Buenos Ayres, which is sometimes called 
after the Rio de la Plata, comprises a vast space of ten-itory 
on the banks of the great river of La Plata. The eastern part 
is crossed by the Uraguay, and it contains a number of moun- 
tains, particularly in the interior : the other part is an im- 
mense plain, which extends to the bases of the Andes, and is 
in many parts impregnated with salt and nitre. 

Since the period when this province was separated from 
Peru, and united to the new viceroyalty of Rio de la Plata, 
(1778.) agriculture, manufactures, and trade, have made an 
incredible progress. Its prosperity is likewise roiisidorably 
promoted by its excellent climate, its vast extent, and wonder- 
fully fruitful soil, which is intersected by a multitude of large 
and small rivers, whose streams not only serve for the purpose 
of irrigation and interior circulation, but also to maintain, by 
means of their common influx into the Rio de la Plata, an in- 
tercourse v.ith the ocean ; and its maritime communications 
are aided by the excellent harbours of Buenos Ayres, Monte 
Video, Maldonado la Colonia, and the bay of Barragau. 

Buenos Ayres is the capital of the whole province of the 
river La Plata. Its site is very handsome. From the north 
side may bo seen the river, the width of which is beyond th*; 
reach of the eye. The environs consist of nothing but exten- 
sive and beautiful fields, always covered with verdure. The 
port is always exposed to the winds, on account of which ves- 
sels cannot approach vciv near to the town ; while the boats 
or small craft which go to it, are obliged to make a detour, 
and enter a stream which empties itself into the main river; 
the water in this is two or three fathoms deep ; but when the 
tide has ebbed in the great river, the branch in question can- 
not be entered. 

Buenos Ayres is the residence of a viceroy and a bishop, 
and may be considered as the second city of South America. 
It is supposed to contain JiOOO houses, and 40,000 inhabitants. 
This city is now the grand emporium of all the commerce of 
the provinces of Peru ; and the goods are conveyed thither in 



624 SOUTH AMERICA. 

waggons drawn by horses. The conductors travel in caravans, 
on account of the l*ampas Indians, who are very troublesome 
to travellers. This city is watered by several large rivers, all 
of which empty themselves into that of La Plata. It has a 
fine square surrounded with superb buildings, and a ibrtress 
on the river, which is the residence of the governor. The 
streets are perfectly regular, with foot-paths on each side. 

That the climate of Buenos Ayres is very salubrious, ap- 
pears from the proportion of the births to the deaths; and 
consequently the city has not been improperly named. In 
June, July, August, and September, however, fogs arise from 
the river, which affect the lungs and breast. The vehement 
winds too which blow from the pampas, or plains, and are 
therefore called pampo'os, prove very troublesome to the inha- 
bitants. Neither in the city of Buenos Ayres, nor in Tucu- 
man, does any snow ever fall : sometimes it freezes a little, so 
as to cover the water with a thin coating of ice, which is col- 
lected and presei'ved with gieat care, for the purpose of cool- 
ing their liquors. 

Formerly the citizens of Buenos Ayres had no country 
houses; and, except peaches, none of the finer sorts of fruit 
were produced there. At present, there are few persons of 
opulence but have villas, and cultivate in their gardens all 
kinds of fruit, culinary plants, and flowers. The houses are 
in general not very high ; but most of them are built in a 
light and beautiful manner, and their interior exhibits great 
neatness and an abundant supply of good furniture. The 
city is well supplied with provision^ ; of fresh meat, in parti- 
cular, there is so great an abimdance, that it is frequently dis- 
tributed gratis to the poor. The river water is rather muddy, 
but it soon becomes clear and drinkable by being kept in large 
tubs or earthen vessels. Of fish too there is great abundance. 

At Buenos Ayres, the men as well as tlie women drcsh 
after the Spanish mode; and tlie lashions of Cadiz are ge- 
nerally copied here, but usually some years after their pre- 
valence in the mother country. The ladies m Buenos Ayres 
are reckoned the most agreerible and handsome of all Soutli 
Americtt. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 625 

Until the year 1747, no regular post was established either 
in Buenos Ayres, or the whole province of Tucunian, not- 
withstanding the great intercourse and trade with the neigh- 
bouring provinces : but, in 1748, the viceroy Don Andonaegui 
instituted regular posts. 

In the villages round Buenos Ayres, it is not uncommon to 
meet with people in their eig^itieth year, who still retain the 
full vigour and health of middle age. Epidemics or other 
dangerous diseases are wholly unknown ; and were not the 
peasants, and those persons whose avocations expose them to 
such hazards, liable to so many dangerous casualties from the 
cattle and horses, people of an hundred years old, or upwards, 
would be nothing remarkable in this country. 

Monte Video is a town upon the river of La Plata, about 60 
miles from its mouth. It has a large and convenient harbour, 
and the climate is mild and agreeable. The markets are plen- 
tifully supplied with fish and meat at a very cheap rate. Its 
principal trade is in leather. 

Don Pernetti has given a curious picture of the Spaniards of 
Monte Video. To sleep, talk, smoke a segar, and ride on 
horseback, are the occupations in which they pass three-fourths 
of the day. The great abundance of provisions gives facility 
to their idleness ; besides which, there are amongst them many 
persons of property, so that they all appeal- anxious to live in 
style, and have nothing to do. 

The women, during the whole of the morning, sit on stools 
in their entrance halls, having under their feet, first, a cane 
mat, and over that a piece of the stuff made by the Indians, 
or a tiger's skin. They amuse themselves with playing on a 
guitar, or some similar instrument, which they accompany 
with their voice, while the negresses prepare the dinner. 

In these countries jealousy does not disturb either sex. The 
men publicly acknowledge their illegitimate children, who be- 
come the heirs of their fathers. There is no shame attached 
to bastardy ; because the laws so far authorise promiscuous in- 
tercourse, as to grant to the diildren which result from it the 
title of gentlefolks, 

27 4 K 



626 SOUTH AMERICA. 

The women, though covered by a veil in public places, live 
at home with as much freedom, to say the least of it, as females 
do ip France ; they receive company as they do in France ; 
and do not suffer themselves to be pressed to dance, sing, or 
play on the harp, guitar, or mandoline. In this respect they 
are much more complaisant than French women, if we may 
credit the assertion of Don Pernetti. When they are not oc- 
cupied in dancing, they sit continually on the stools already 
mentioned, which they sometimes place outside the door. The 
men are not allowed to sit among them unless they are invited, 
and such a favour is considered as a great familiarity. 

At Monte Video, a lively and very lascivious dance is much 
practised : it is called caknda ,• and the negroes, as well as the 
mulattoes, whose constitutions are sanguine, are excessively 
fond of it. This dance was introduced in Amei'ica by the ne- 
groes who were imported from the kingdom of Ardra, on the 
eoast of Guinea; and the Spaniards have adopted it in all 
their establishments. It is, however, so indecent, as to shock 
and astonish those who have not been in the habit of seeing it 
performed. The accounts which have been given of this licen- 
tious recreation are so different from what is conceived in Eu- 
rope, that a particular detail of them would resemble a story 
of La Fontaine, rather than a matter of fact. 

The common people, in which are included the mulattoes 
and negroes, wear, instead of a cloak, a piece of stuff, in stripes 
of different colours, which appears like a sack, having only a 
hole at top for the admission of the head ; it hangs over the 
arms down to the wrist, and reaches, both before and behind, 
down to the calf of the leg ; it is fringed all round at the bot- 
tom. The men of every class wear it when they ride on 
horseback, and find it much more convenient than the common 
cloak. The governor shewed one of these habiliments to 
Messrs. Bougainville, Pernetti, &c., which was embroidered 
with gold and silver, and had cost him upwards of 300 pias- 
tres. The same dresses are made at Chili, in such a style as 
to cost 2000 ; and it is from that country that they have been 
imported at Monte Video. This dress is known by the name 



SOUTH AMERICA. 627 

of poncho or chony : it secures the wearer from rain, is not 
ruffled by the wind, and not only serves him for a coverlid at 
night, but also for a carpet when he rests in the fields. 

Paraguay. — The subdivisions of this great province are 
very imperfectly known. The upper part of the country, 
which lies along the rivers of Paraguay, Pilcomayo, and Ver- 
mejo, consists of fine plains, watered by a great number of ri- 
vulets, agreeable hills, and thick forests ; but the lower part 
contains a series of barren or swampy countries, in which there 
are large saline plains. To the east of Parana, the ground is 
hilly. 

The state of the towns in Paraguay is but little known. 
Assunc'ion, in English Assumption, is the capital of the pro- 
vince: it is situated 840 miles from Buenos Ayres, on the 
river of Paraguay. Though the residence of a bishop and a 
governor, it is but thinly inhabited. Ncemboucou is a pretty 
town, situated, according to M. d'Azzara, 99 miles from the 
town of Assumption. Couroug'uatl, another town mentioned 
by d'Azzara, is 108 miles east-north-east of Assumption. 

Tucuman. — Tucuman is a very extensive province; its 
length by the post roads is about 1580 miles, of which 1306 
are very fruitful soil, and 274. waste; the first part is passable 
with waggons, but in the latter only saddle-beasts are employed. 

The principal towns in this province are, the Salta of Tu- 
cuman, which is the residence of a governor, and is situated in 
a very fertile valley ; Jujui, Rioja, San Fernando, Saint Jaques 
de TEsterro, San Miguel, and Cordova. 

Cordova is the residence of a bishop, and the best town iu 
the province. It lies on a small sandy plain, between a thick 
forest and the Rio Primero, and forms nearly a regular square. 
The houses in general have only one story, but are tolerably 
good, and arc neatly and solidly constructed. The city con- 
tains three men's, and an equal number of women''8 convents, 
called ' Collegios ;' one of which has the title of ' University,"' 
and formerly belonged to the Jesuits. Many wealthy indivi- 
duals reside here, who carry on a lucrative trade in mules. 
They purchase the young foals in the neighbourhood of Bue- 
nos Ayres, Santa l^e, and Corrientes, bringing them up at first 



628 SOUTH AMERICA. 

in their own fields, from which at a more advanced growth 
they remove them to those near Salta, and sell them a year 
and a half or two years afterwards, to the mule-dealers from 
Peru at eight or ten piastres the head. 

Sant lago del Estero is a poor place, which lies on a river 
of the same name, in a marshy country that is frequently over- 
flowed. The inhabitants pass for the best soldiers in the whole 
province ; but, with the exception of some mule-dealers, live 
in great poverty. Exclusive of a magnificent Jesuits' college, 
that would lodge the whole place with convenience, there are 
nothing but miserable huts in the town. The women belong- 
ing to it make very good woollen carpets, but unfortunately 
there is not much demand for them. 

St. Miguel is situated in a most beautiful country, amongst 
fertile plains of figs and citrons, vying with the pomegranate 
and lively orange trees. The inhabitants carry on a good 
trade in mules, particularly those destined for draught, which 
are wanted for the land-carriage to Buenos Ayres and Jujui; 
and the vehicles so employed are also constructed here. They 
are a sort of iofty two-wheeled caravan, railed round with cane, 
and covered on the outside with ox-hides. 

Salta del Tuciiman lies in an extremely fenny situation ; it 
is scarcely possible to dig three feel without finding water; 
and, on the other hand, the vale of I.erma, at whose issue the 
city is situated, is beautifully covered with meadows and fields. 
Salta does not probably contain more than SOOO inhabitants, 
yet it is of considerable importance on account of its extensive 
trade in mules, but more particularly its great annual fair, 
which is held in the months of February and March, and at- 
tracts an extraordinary number of strangers. The sellers 
from Buenos Ayres, Cordova, Santa Fe, Corrientes, &c., and 
the purchasers out of Peru, come hither in crowds ; and there 
are often seen at that period about Salta, 60,000 mules, and 
4000 hoises, all of which go to Peru. This fair would in all 
probability be still more brilliant, were it not held in the rainy 
months, when the neighbourhood is scarcely better than a vast 
morass, and the number of strangers, who are obliged to take 
up a temporary residence outside the town, can hardly find a 



SOUTH AMERICA. 629 

spot of ground whereon to fix their tents. It is not Improba- 
ble but to these marshy exhalations may be attributed the hi- 
deous goiters with which the female sex is here so fi'equently 
afflicted. As beautiful as the women are, and distinguished 
for their fine complexions, and particularly the fine growth of 
their hair, no sooner have they attained their twenty -fifth year, 
than their necks progressively increase in size, till they at 
length attain to a most disgusting protuberance ; and in order 
to conceal this deformity, these poor women envelope them*- 
selves up to the chin in a thick handkerchief. 

Charcas. — This audxency is divided into several large pro- 
vinces. The climate, in general, is hot and moist ; and the 
soil very fertile. Great part of this region is inhabited by 
hordes of Indians, some of whom are on friendly terms with 
the Spaniards, and others are so barbarous that they eat their 
enemies. 

Santa Cruz de la Sierra is the capital of the province of 
that name. It is a modern built place, for the old town, which 
was more towards the south, is destroyed. It is a large city, 
well peopled, and has a governor and a bishop; the latter, 
however, resides at Misque Pocona. 

La Plata is the capital of the province of Chuquisaco, and 
was first called La Plata on account of a famous silver mine, 
which was in the mountain of Porco, near the city in question, 
and from which the Incas derived innnense sums. The nobi- 
lity of this place are the most distinguished of any in Peru, 
and they still retain many privileges. The number of the in- 
habitants is about 14,000, amongst whom are many Spaniards. 
This city is the residence of an archbishop, whose authority 
extends over the whole viceroyalty. 

There are several other large towns in this audiency, which 
do not merit a particular description. 

Potosi. — This corregidory contains the famous silver mines 
which have been so often mentioned. These mines afforded, 
between the years 1545 and 1648, the enormous sum of 
80,000,000 of pounds sterling; and they are still far from ex- 
haustion. The metal continues to be abundant, though the 
most accessible part has been taken away, and the Spaniards 



630 SOUTH AMERICA. 

will not give themselves the trouble to sink these mines very 
deep, because there are in Peru, and even in the vicinity of 
Potosi, many others which can be more easily worked. 

The city or toMn of Potosi contains, according to Helms, 
100,000 souls, inclusive of slaves; but other writers state the 
numbers at not more than 50,000. AVe ought, however, to 
prefer the testimony of Helms, because he resided many years 
in that country. Potosi is the seat of the administration of 
the mines, and the tribunals that relate thereto : it is the cen- 
tre of a very considerable counnerce, which is conveyed by the 
river Pilcomayo. 

Chili proper. — This division of Spanish America is in length 
from north to south between 1500 and 1650 miles; and its 
width from east to west about 240 miles, which comprises the 
chain of the Andes. It is bounded to the west by the Pacific 
ocean, to the north by Peru, to the east by Tucuman, and to 
the south by the countries of Magellan. It is separated from 
all these regions by the Andes. 

The climate of Chili proper is temperate and salubrious, its 
soil fertile, and it always has a clear sky. The cold of winter 
is moderate, and the heat of summer is cooled by the winds 
that blow from the sea and the Andes. It contains every 
metal, semi-metal, and mineral, that has hitherto been dis- 
covered. 

Sant lago, the capital of the whole kingdom of Chili, is si- 
tuated in 38 deg. 40 min. 11 sec. south lat., and is 90 miles 
from the port of Valparayso. The town is said to be more 
than three miles in circumference. The streets intersect each 
other at right angles, and some of them are tolerably wide, 
and three-quarters of a mile long. Its population is estimated 
at 30,500 souls. Some of the edifices in Sant lago are worthy 
of mention, on account of their magnificence, though the rules 
of architectui-e have not been exactly observed in their con- 
struction : the principal are, the mint, the new cathedral, and 
some churches, though there are several splendid houses be- 
longing to individuals. These all consist only of a ground 
floor, though the apartments are capacious and lofty. This 
manner of building, which is, as has been observed, adopted 



SOUTH AMERICA. 631 

from the fear of earthquakes, is probably in the end more 
convenient, salubrious, and even more magnificent, than the 
European method of building- several floors above each other. 

Sant iago is the residence of a captain-general, who is like- 
wise the civil magistrate of the kingdom of Chih ; of a bishop, 
who enjoys a large revenue, and a still greater degree of re- 
spect; of a supreme tribunal, an university, and a college of 
nobles. There are twelve monasteries and seven nunneries in 
this capital. 

The manner of living at Sant Iago exhibits all the charac- 
tCL-lstics of gaiety, hospitality, and good nature, whicli so ad- 
vantageously distinguish the Spaniards in the New World, as 
well as in Europe. The women there are handsome brunettes, 
but a Gothic dress rather disfigures them. The conversation 
in the first circles of the town seems to partake of the simpli- 
city and freedom which prevail in the country parts of Europe. 
Dancing and music are here, as well as throughout America, 
the favourite amusements of both sexes. The luxury of dress 
and equipages is carried to a great height ; but in the furnish- 
ing and fitting up of houses, more regard is had to pomp than 
to neatness and elegance. 

The town of La Conception having been overwhelmed by 
the sea, in consequence of an earthquake, a new one has been 
built at some distance from the shore, which is indiscriminatelv 
called La Mocha, or New Conception. The inhabitants are 
about 10,000 in number. It is the residence of an intendant 
and a military commander, and the authority of these two 
officers extends over the province of La Conception, which 
comprises the south of Chili ; but its limits are not precisely 
known. 

Commerce. — The inhabitants of these immense territories 
have, during three centuries, groaned under the severest des- 
potism, so that commerce has been injured, agriculture neg- 
lected, and the exertions of industry paralysed, and in a great 
measure rendered abortive. Galleons, and afterwards register- 
ships, were exclusively permitted to carry out European mer- 
chandise to the colonies, and in return brought back the gdld 
and silver drawn from the mines of the New World, which the 



692 SOUTH AMERICA. 

indolent Spaniards saw with perfect apathy go to enrich the 
neighbouring commercial nations. 

Spain did not, however, succeed in her projects of monopoly ; 
as the other European nations, which were prohibited by the 
most severe laws from entering any of her colonial ports, ne- 
vertheless contrived, with a boldness and perseverance equal to 
the importance of the object they had in view, to supply these 
countries with every article of which they might stand iti need. 
In particular, our own merchants, as well as those of Holland, 
employed by turns gold and the force of arms to counteract 
the vigilance of the Spanish g'narda castas, stationed along the 
coast, to prevent such contraband traffic. The idea was in- 
deed equally absurd and impolitic to endeavour to shut out 
the one half of the world from all connection with the other. 

From these and other circumstances, few advantages have 
hithei'to been derived from the precious metals, either by 
America herself, or the mother country ; since the former is 
not permitted to exchange her gold and silver for those com- 
modities of which she may stand in need, and the latter is at 
no pains to supply those wants. 

In 17T8, Galvez, at that time minister of American affairs, 
endeavoured to produce some changes in their absent colonial 
system. Under his administration, thirteen prirtcipal ports in 
Old Spain were successively permitted to engage in a free 
trade with the colonies. Since this period, the manufactures 
of Old Spain have been greatly improved and multiplied : the 
linens of Navarre and of Arragon, the cloths of Segovia, the 
silks of Valencia, besides various other articles, render the 
Spanish commerce less dependent on foreign importations. 

From 1778 to 1788, the number of fi-ee ports in the mother 
country had been increased from seven to twelve. The ex- 
portations of Spanish merchandise had also, during the same 
period, been more than quintupled, the exports of foreign 
products in Spanish bottoms more than tripled, and the im- 
ports from America in return augmented by more tiian nine- 
tenths. 

From a table given by Mr. Bourgoing, it appears that the 
total value of the imports from South America, during 1788. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 633 

amounted to 22,667,320/. 9*., and the total of the exports to 
7,493,933/. 5*. ; so that the imports exceed the exports by 
15,173,387/. 4*. 

From various authorities, it appears certain, that Spain has, 
since 1788, exported to South America more wines, fruits, 
and manufactured productions, than formerly; it is equally 
certain, thai she has also since imported a greater quantity of 
tobacco, sugar, coffee, and other commodities, from her Ame- 
rican possessions, though these are still far from having ob- 
tained that degree of perfection of which they are susceptible ; 
that, in short, the intercourse between the mother country and 
her colonies has become much greater than at any former pe- 
riod. Previous to 1778, twelve or fifteen vessels only were 
engaged in the colonial trade, and these never performed more 
than one voyage in the course of three years; but in 1791, 
89 ships cleared out from different Spanish ports for South 
America. 

It is not easy to ascertain the exact quantity of gold and 
silver drawn by Spain from the mines in her Ajnerican colo- 
nies. Part of these metals is converted into current coin at 
Lima, Santa Fe, Carthagena, and especially in Mexico ; but 
a part is also sent under the form of ingots, either clandes- 
tinely or legally, to the mother country. The most accurate 
information respecting this matter is, perhaps, to be found in 
the statement given by M. Helms, which makes the produce 
almost FIVB MILLIONS, in 1790,^ nearly three of w^hich were in 
Mexico. 

The following are the official registers of the coinage in 
Spanish America, from the first day of January to the last 
day of December, 1790 : 

In Gold. In Silver. Total. 

At Mexico, 628,044 17,4S5,6'44 18,063,688 piastres. 

At Lima, 821,168 4,341,071 5,162,239 

At Potosi, 299,846 3,983,176 4,283,022 

At St. Jago, 721,754 116,132 867,886 



Total 2,470,812 25,906,023 28,376,835 

4 L 



634 SOUTH AMERICA. 

To account for the great difference of produce from the 
mines of Mexico, and from those of Peru, Chili, and Buenos 
Ayres, Mr. Hehiis alleges the following reasons : 1. Because 
the kingdom of Mexico is much more populous than any other 
of the American provinces. 2. It is scarcely half the distance 
from the mother country, whence it is enabled the better to 
enforce obedience to the laws and regulations, habits of indus- 
try, good police, and economy. 3. The want of royal and 
private banks in Peru, where every thing is still in its primi- 
tive and chaotic state. And, lastly, on account of the great 
encouragement which the industrious miner readily obtains in 
every commercial house of Mexico. If, concludes Helms, the 
provinces of Peru, Chili, and Buenos Ayres, were in a similar 
favourable situation as that of iNIexicoj there is no doubt that 
in Pei'u alone, on account of its incomparably richer and more 
numerous gold and silver mines, f()ur times the quantity of 
these noble metals might be obtained, and perhaps a still 
greater proportion, than what Mexico affords at present. 

Since the discontinuance of the galleons, and of the great 
fairs at Panama and Porto Bello, the commerce of Peru has been 
augmented by the arrival of merchant vessels from Spain by the 
way of cape Horri. Yet, according to Helms, the freedom of 
the trade has overstocked the market with Spanish goods. 

From the \dceroyalty of La Plata hides and tallow form a 
considerable article of ex}X)rt. In 1792, there were shipped to 
the Spanish ports alone 825,(^00 hides; and in 1798 there 
were collected in Buenos Ayres and Monte Video a stock of 
three millions of hides. The tea^ or herb of Paraguay, con- 
stitutes a principal branch of the ti'ade of that country. Of 
this plant there ai'e sent to Peru alone about 100,000 parcels, 
called arfobes, each weighing 25 lbs. of 16 oz. to the lb. ; and 
the price of the arrobe is equal to 28 French livres, or 1/. 3.9. 
4f/. sterling, which makes the total value of this merchandise 
sent to Peru, 116,666/. \^s. 4J. 

The people boast of innumerable virtues which this tree 
possesses : it is certainly aperient and diuretic ; but the other 
qualities attributed to it are doubtful. The Chapetons, or 
European Spaniards, do not make much use of this drink ; 



SOUTH AMERICA. 635 

but the Creoles are passionately fond of it, insomuch that they 
never travel without a supply of the herb ; they never fail to 
drink an infusion of it at every meal, preferring it to all sorts 
of food, and never eating till they have ttiken this favourite 
beverage. Instead, however, of drinking it separately, as we 
drink tea in Europe, they put the plant in a calabash, mounted 
with silver, which they call mate: they add sugar to it, and 
pour on it hot water, which they drink off directly without 
waiting for a maceration, because the liquor would then be- 
come as black as ink. In order not to swallow the fragments 
of the plant which swim at the surface, they use a silver pipe, 
the top of which is perforated into a number of small holes, 
through which they suck the liquor without drawing in the 
plant. J\. whole party is supplied with the tea by handing 
round the same pipe and bowl from one to another, and filling 
the vessel up with water as fast as it is drunk out. The re- 
pugnance of Europeans to drink after all sorts of people, in a 
country where siphylitic diseases are very prevalent, had 
caused the introduction of small glass pipes, which had begun 
to oet into use at Lima in the time of Frezier. 

On an average of five years, ending in 1799, the total value 
of imports into Peru, taken at the European invoice prices, 
was 32,397,453 piasters. The exports in the produce of the 
country amounted, in an average of five years, ending in 
1789, to 31,386,357 piasters. 

We have no late- returns of the state of the exports and im- 
ports of Spanish South America; but from various circum- 
stances it may safely be concluded, that the commerce of these 
colonies is nearly doubled. 

Government. — Spanish America is, or rather was, divided 
into FOUR viceroyalties, of unequal dimensions ; viz. 

That of jMexico, or New Spain, comprehending New Galli- 
cia. New IJiscay, New Navarre, New Leon, New Mexico, the 
Floridas, and the two Californias. 

That of New Grenada, compreliending Terra Firma, Pa- 
nama, V'eraguay, and the pi-ovince of Quito. 

That of Lima, comprehending Peru and Chih, 



636 SOUTH AMERICA. 

And that of La Plata, or Buenos Ayres, comprehending 
Paraguay, Tucuman, and a part of the former Peru. 

In order to facilitate the administration of justice, these pro- 
vinces were divided into audiencies, which were again subdi- 
vided into partidos. They were also divided into military 
districts, which were under the authority of captains-general, 
governors, and commanders. 

The viceroys maintained a splendid court, though their 
power was extremely limited, from the authority pt)ssessed by 
the judges, and from their not being pennitted to interfere 
with the colonial treasures, or the military or marine forces. 

The military department was much neglected in all the 
Spanish possessions ; the militia being found sufficient to keep 
the Indians in subjection: and the marine was confined to ten 
corvettes, or armed galleons, stationed along a coast extending 
from 9 to 12,000 miles ! 

All colonial affairs are finally referred to the council of tJie 
Indies, which holds its sittings at Madrid, and of which the 
mimstcr of the Indies is the perpetual resident. 

History. — Peru and Mexico were the only countries in 
America that deserved the name of civilised kingdoms. Three 
citizens of Panama, Francis Pizarro, Almagro, and Ferdinand 
Locqucs, a priest and a man of considerable fortune, imdertook 
the conquest of Peru. Pizarro, after a tedious navigation of 
two years, landed on the northern extremity of Peru ; but was 
obliged to return without effecting any thing considerable. 
But, having obtained the approbation of the Spanish govern- 
ment, he again proceeded to the conquest of Peru, with 180 
men. 

The empire of Peru was at that time governed by a race of 
kings, which they called Incas, and which, claiming descent 
from the sun, wei'e respected as divinities. When PizaiTO 
landed, the unusual appearance of his men caused a general 
alarm. As usual in frightl'ul rumours, new superstitions be- 
gin, or old ones are revived, to increase the confusion. There 
subsisted a tradition amongst the Peruvians, that one of their 
ancient princes had a dream, which he ordered carefully to be 



SOUTH AMERICA. 637 

recorded. He imagined that he saw a man clothed all over 
even to his feet, with a long beard, leading in his hand an ani- 
mal, such as he had never seen before; and that at the. same 
time he was clearly informed of the will of the gods, that such 
a man should rule that country. A Spaniard, whom Pizarro 
had sent upon an embassy to Atabalipa, as soon as he was dis- 
covered leading his horse upon some occasion that made him 
dismount, am-eed so well with this dream, that it is incredible 
how soon it spread into the the remotest parts of the countiy, 
and with how great a terror it struck the whole nation. 

Atabalipa, the reigning Inca, sent ambassadors to Pizarro; 
and even went out to meet him with a vast number of attend- 
ants, to whom he gave the strictest charge upon no account to 
offer the least injury to the strangers, as they were those of 
whom his predecessor had foretold, and of the same divine ori- 
ginal, children of the sun. But Pizarro, wiio advanced with 
other notions to the interview, soon convinced him that a con- 
trary caution was more necessary. They met near a celebrated 
temple, the Spaniards drawn up in order of battle, and a party 
in ambuscade. This circumstance leaves us in no doubt as to 
the designs of Pizarro. The first person who addressed him- 
self to the Inca was father Vincent, a friar, who was not 
ashamed to make his character the instrument of so base a 
crime. He advanced with a cross in his hand, and began a 
most unseasonable discourse upon the birth and miracles of 
Christ, exhorting him to become a Christian, on the pain of 
eternal punishment. Then he spoke with equal eloquence of 
the emperor of the Romans, pressing him with the same 
strength of argument to become a subject of that emperor; 
threatening him, in case of obstinacy, that God would harden 
his heart as he did Pharaoh's, and then punish him with the 
plagues of Egypt; with other miserable stuff, worse inter- 
preted. The Inca, though utterly astonished at a matter so 
unaccountable, behaved with decency and gravity, telling him, 
that he believed that he and his companions were children of 
the sun; recommended himself and his subjects to their pro- 
tection ; and made no doubt but they would behave to them 
in a manner worthy the offspring of so beneficent a deity. 



638 SOUTH AMERICA. 

■ Whilst these discourses continued, the Spanish soldiers, 
whose least business to Peru was to hear sermons, observing a 
considerable quantity of gold in the neighbouring temple, had 
their zeal immediately stirred up, and a party of them began 
to pillage it. The priests made some opposition. A disturb- 
ance ensued, and a great noise, which so alarmed our adven- 
turing apostle, that he let fall his cross and bre^ iary in his 
fright, and turned his back upon his intended proselyte. 
Those Spaniards who were not concerned in the pillage, seeing 
liim fly, either that they judged the heathens had offered their 
priest some violence, or that Pizarro made use of this signal to 
them to fall on, immediately drew their swords, attacked the 
guards and attendants of the Inca, defenceless through a reli- 
gious obedience to their sovereign's command, and, with every 
circumstance of the most deliberate and shocking barbarity, 
slaughtered 5000, which was near the whole number of the 
Indians, who fell without any anxiety for their own lives, 
pressing forward with all the zeal and officiousness of a most 
heroic loyalty to the chair of their prince, to expire at his feet ; 
and as fast as one set of his supporters were slain, the others 
succeeded with eagerness to supply their places, and share 
their fate. The Inca was at last dragged down, and made a 
prisoner, by an act of the most unparalleled treachery, exe- 
cuted with a cruelty that has hardly any example and can ad- 
mit of no excuse. The plunder of his camp, rich beyond the 
idea of any European of that time, was their reward. 

The valuable ornaments and furniture amassed by a long 
line of magnificent kings, with the hallowed treasures of the 
most venerated temples, wTre given up as a ransom for the 
Inca. But still Pizarro detained him a prisoner ; and divided 
iiis immense spoils with the soldiers of Almagro, who having 
now joined him, his force was considerable ; and all were elated 
with the golden prospects that were opened before them. 

But this vast treasure, the capital object of all their labours 
and villanies, no sooner came into their possession, but in its con- 
sequences it was very near being the utter ruin of their affairs. 
It is said, and not improbably, that the whole exceeded the 
sum of 1,500,000/. sterling, a sum vast at the present time; 



SOUTH AMERICA. 6^b 

then it was a prodigy. On a dividend, after deducting a fifth 
for the emperor, and the shares of the chief commanders and 
officers, each private soldier had about 2000Z. EngHsh money. 
They had now made a fortune even beyond their imaginations ; 
but the soldiery was ruined, the greatest part of the army in- 
sisted upon being discharged, that they might enjoy their for- 
tunes in quiet. 

This proposal ill suited with the ambitious views of the 
commanders. Almagro was for proceeding in the usual way 
to enforce obedience by the severity of military discipline ; but 
Pizarro opposed him. 'Let them go,' says he; 'they cannot 
do us better service : here we shall have them mutinous and 
cowardly soldiers, at home they will act for us as recruiting 
officers with creat success : for when it shall be seen that com- 
mon soldiers, of so little merit as they, have made such large 
fortunes, we shall not long want better men to supply their 
places."" 

The desire of the soldiers was complied with, and as many 
as chose to go, who were no inconsiderable number, departed. 
In due time, the sagacious pro])hecy of Pizarro was accom- 
plished, and their army never wanted reinforcements. 

In the mean time, the unfortunate AtabaHpa, the greatness 
of whose ransom only convinced the Spaniards of the necessity 
of never releasing him, endeavoured to take advantage of his 
captivity, to know the genius and manners of this people. 
Amongst all their accomplishments, there was none he so 
much admired as the art of reading and writing. This ap- 
peared almost incomprehensible to him, though he saw clearly 
the use of it. He was at a loss to know whether he should 
consider it as a natural endowment, or an acquisition of art. 
To discover this, he one day desired a soldier to write the 
name of God ivpon his nail : he carried this about the army, 
desired several to explain it, which they all did, to his wonder 
and satisfaction. At last lie shewed it to Pizarro, but Pizarro 
blushed, and could make nothing of it. The Inca then per- 
ceived it was no natural gift, but owing to education ; the 
want of which he thus discovered in Pizarro, and slighted Iiim 
for it. This mortified the general, and his disgust, joined to 



640 SOUTH AMERICA. 

his natural cruelty and a policy he thought he saw in the pro- 
ceeding, made him hasten the fate he had some time before 
determined for his unhappy prisoner. That nothing might be 
wanting to the boldness and atrociousness of their barbarity, 
they proceeded against him by way oi" trial and by the forms 
of law. 

A charge was exhibited, digested under several heads. 1st, 
For being an idolator. 2dly, For having many concubines, 
3dly, For wasting the treasures of the kingdom, and raising 
taxes since the coming in of the Spaniards. And, lastly. For 
the murder of his brother Huescar. An attorney-general was 
appointed to manage the accusation, and an advocate appointed 
from amongst themselves assigned for his defence. In vain 
did tlie more numerous and better part of the army protest 
against this proceeding, and lodge an appeal to Spain ; in vain 
did they allege their want of power to judge a foreign prince 
for any crimes, and the absurdity of the crimes with which this 
prince was charged. Before such judges, and with such an 
advocate to defend him, the Inca was condemned to be burned 
alive. To complete this violation and mockery of all laws, 
human and divine, the same fathei* Vincent, who had so sig- 
nalised himself u})on a former occasion, was sent to comfort 
and instruct him in his last moments. The chief argument 
which he used to convert him to Christianity was, that, on his 
embracing the faith, instead of being burned, his sentence 
should be mitigated to strangling. The prince submitted to 
baptism, and was immediately strangled in prison. Pizarro 
gave the final stroke to his hardened and shameless villainy, 
by giving him a magnificent funeral, and going into mourning. 

The death of the Inca induced the Peruvians to take arms 
against the Spaniards, who were obliged to listen to a treaty. 
During this interval of peace, Pizarro founded the famous city 
of Lima. But having received reinforcements, he recom- 
menced the war, and took Cusco, the capital of the empire. 
After this, the Peruvians again revolted, and besieged Cusco 
with 200,000 men, which was defended by Pizarro with a 
garrison of TO men till he was relieved by Ahnagro. The 
conquerors, who had quarrelled respecting the division of the 



SOUTH AIMERICA. mi 

plunder, had recourse to arms, and Pizarro was routed and 
fled with about 100 followers. But this man, with the most 
consummate cunning, recovered the shock, defeated the brave 
hut credulous Almagro, who, at the age of 73 years, fell a vic- 
tim to the barbarous policy of his fellow adventurer. 

Whilst this civil war raged, the reigning Inca took a very 
extraordinary resolution. He disbanded his troops and retired 
to the mountains ; ' because,' says he, ' whilst we are in arms, 
tlieir fear of us will be the means of uniting the Spaniards; 
but if we disperse, they will certainly destroy each other.' A 
resolution this, which at first view has something masterly, 
but it is only when viewed in one light. It was also very 
ruinous to the Peruvians, that, happening to be divided 
amongst themselves when the Sj;)aniards came in, they suffered 
tliem to interfere in their parties ; but it was of yet worse con- 
sequence that, when the Spaniards were afterwards divided, 
they interfered themselves in the Spanish parties. Almagro 
and Pizarro had armies of Indians, by which those people 
were habituated to obey them, and to be interested in tiieir 
success : this, joined to the want of any regular plan of defence 
on the part of their king and commanders, subdued that em- 
pire to Pizarro. But having achieved so great a conquest, it 
only made Pizarro acquainted with other great tracts which 
were rich, and might be added to them. He followed the 
tracks of Almagro into Chili, and reduced a considerable part 
of the country. Orellana, one of his commanders, passed the 
Andes, and sailed down to the mouth of the river of Amazons ; 
an immense navigation, which discovered a very rich and de- 
lightful country ; but, as it is mostly flat, and therefore not 
abounding in minerals, the Spaniards then, and ever since, 
neglected it. 

Pizarro, not content with a territory upwards of 800 leagues 
long, and of a prodigious breadth, riches such as none of the 
kings of his country had ever possessed, a jurisdiction little 
less than royal, and an absolute security from the extinction of 
the orily person who had any pretensions against him, took a 
resolution entirely to cut off all that had ever adhered to his 
tival. Not satisfied with putting many to death, he issued a 

4 M 



642 SOUTH AMERICA. 

proclamation, inhibiting, under the same penalty, that any 
person should harboui*, or even relieve an Almagrian with the 
necessaries of life. This party was yet numerous, though dis- 
persed and lurking about the country. The heads of them, 
findmg Pizarro implacable, entered into a conspiracy to mur- 
der him. They did not want adherents in the city, so that 
they found means of concealing themselves until their plot 
should be ripe for execution ; but by some means Pizarro dis- 
covered their designs, and suffered them to know he had dis- 
covered theui. Alarmed at this Information, they saw nothing 
could happen but death at any side. Twelve of the chiefs 
marched into the streets at noon-day, with their swords drawn, 
crying out, ' Long live the king ! but let the traitor die ;"* and, 
crossing the great square of Lima, made directly to Pizarro''s 
palace ; the rest followed in different parties. The people all 
the while suspended, and in that inactive amazement which 
the execution of a bold and sudden enterprise generally in- 
spires, made no opposition. The conspirators secured the 
avenues ; and Pizarro, not alarmed until he was surrounded 
by his enemies, fell under their swords, after having sold his 
life dearly. 

When Pizarro had fallen, the natural son of Almagro was 
proclaimed governor. Shortly after, Vaca di Castro, who was 
appointed governor by the emperor, arrived, by whom young 
Almagro was defeated, taken, and beheaded. The severity, 
inflexibility, and disinterestedness, of the new governor, re- 
duced the Spaniards to an entire subjection. But in the end 
disputes arose, and the coiony became unsettled. Gonzalo, 
the brother of Pizarro, availed himself of the general discon- 
tent, and set himself at the head of a party, by which he ac- 
quired the government of Peru. Refusing to return to his 
allegiance, Peter de la Gasca, the governor of Mexico, landed 
in Peru with a strong force, defeated the insurgents, and exe- 
cuted Gonzalo and his associates. Thus fell the last of those 
tl^at had a share in the reduction of the Peruvian empire. 

The new governor, having by necessary severities quieted 
his province, took effectual care to heal its disorders by the 
arts of peace, and to complete what Castro had been obliged 



SOUTH AMERICA. 643 

to leave unfinished. He settled the civil government, the 
army, and the mines, upon such a basis as made the province 
worthy to be plundered by future viceroys. He carried over 
two millions to the royal treasury, paid all his debts, and sate 
down as poor in Spain as he had left it. 

The reduction of the great empires of Peru and Mexico 
makes almost the only thing worth insisting upon in the Ame- 
rican history. A few skirmishes with a savage people, and 
some voyages and discoveries exactly resembling each other, 
changing only the names and situations, is matter which con- 
tains very little of either curiosity or instruction. But as the 
convulsions that lately agitated Europe have also reached and 
affected the regions of South America, and portend some im- 
portant change, it becomes necessary to notice these interesting 
movements. 

In the month of June, 1806, a squadron vmdcr Sir Home 
Popham, having on board general Beresford and 1100 troops, 
appeared in the river La Plata, and after a feeble resistance 
from the Spaniards, took possession of Buenos Ay res. This 
town, at the time of its capture, possessed in its treasury and 
warehouses a large quantity of specie and valuable merchan- 
dise, belonging to the public companies or to the king of Spain, 
which was reasonably deemed fair booty to the conquerors, 
and a great part of which, to the amount of more than a mil- 
lion of dollars, was almost immediately embarked in the Nar- 
cissus, and dispatched, with intelligence of the success of the 
expedition, to England, Two hundred thousand dollars re- 
mained in the royal treasury, .and the property in the public 
depots was estimated to amount to two or three millions. 

The proceedings of Sir Home Popham and general Beres- 
ford were attended with a sense of honour and equity, highly 
gratifying to the feelings of Englishmen. Private property 
was held sacred by them. That part of the shipping in the 
river which consisted of coasting vessels, freighted with mer- 
chandise belonging to individual proprietors, and which was 
supposed worth nearly a million and a half of dollars, was de- 
livered up with the most scrupulous and honourable correct- 
ness. Besides this security of private property, guarantepd in 



644 SOUTH AMERICA. 

the capitulation, and by a proclamation which speedily followed, 
the free exercise of religion was allowed to the inhabitants ac- 
cording to the established modes, the possession of their civil 
rights and immunities, and their forms of municipal and judicial 
administration were continued ; heavy duties were taken oif, or 
mitigated ; a free trade was granted to them as it was enjoyed 
by the inhabitants of Trinidad, whose happiness under his Bri- 
tannic majesty ""s government was held fortli as an example of 
what might result to his new subjects of Buenos Ayrcs: — all 
were invited to join in promoting the public order and tran- 
quillity, which the troops were in no instance suffered to mo- 
lest ; and the grand object of the new possessors appeared to 
be, to create that happy state of the public feeling, with respect 
to the government, which might supersede all exercise of vio- 
lence, and which would flow from mild authority, and lead to 
willing obedience. 

After these arrangements, every thing appeared very quiet ; 
but Puiridon, one of the municipality, and colonel Liniers, a 
French officer in the Spanish service and on his parole, were 
actively employed in organizing an insurrection. Favoured 
by the weather, several thousands of armed men entered the 
town in different directions; and, avoiding an open engage- 
ment, joined the inhabitants in annoying the British troops 
from the churches and the tops of the houses. General Be- 
resford, after a spirited resistance against the most overwhelm^ 
ing numbers, agreed to evacuate the town, and that his troops 
should be embarked for England as prisoners of war : but, 
contrary to the terms of capi'.ulation, they were marched up 
the country. 

Sir Home Popham, after this disaster, made an unsuccessful 
attack upon Monte Video. He next landed a detachment, 
which reduced the harbour and peninsula of Maldonado ; a 
place which, from its strength and situation, was well calculated 
for assembling the ships and troops that were exjjected from 
England. 

On the 5th of January, 1807, Sir Samuel Auchmuty landed 
with a strong force at Maldonado ; and, after refreshing his 
troops, sailed, with a squadron under admiral Sterling, to the 



SOUTH AMERICA. 645 

attack of Monte Video; which, after a vigorous siege, was 
gallantly carried by storm. This victory was followed by the 
arrival of general Whitlock, with a strong reinforcement; and 
who immediately proceeded, with the fleet under admiral 
Murray, to attempt the re-capture of Buenos Ayres. 

The troops were lantled about 20 miles from the town ; but 
being unprovided with guides, and the commissary department 
being also improperly conducted, much fatigue and delay en- 
sued ; which gave the Spaniards time to collect their forces, 
and to strengthen their defences. The Spaniards' advanced 
posts were gallantly attacked and defeated. The troops, how- 
ever, on entering the town, experienced the most determined 
resistance, being opposed by a heavy and continued fire of 
musketry from the tops and windows of the houses; the doors 
of which were barricadoed in so strong a manner, as to render 
them ahnost impossible to force. The streets were intersected 
by deep ditches, in the inside of which were planted cannon, 
pouring showers of grape on the advancing columns ; this was 
accompanied by musketry, hand-grenades, bricks, and stones, 
from the tops of all the houses ; every householder, with his 
negroes, defended his dwelling, which was in itself a fortress : 
yet in defiance of this opposition, several columns took the im- 
portant positions appointed them, though with the loss of 2500 
men, in killed, wounded, and prisoners. After a pause, gene- 
ral Whitlock signed a treaty with general Liniers, the Spanish 
commander, whereby the British agreed to evacuate Monte 
Video, with all their other conquests in the La Plata, within 
two months from the date of the treaty. 

Thus ended the impolitic attempt to add these vast and po- 
pulous colonies to the crown of Great Britain. Had the Bri- 
tish proclaimed the independence of this country, the result 
might have been very different : or even had they been content 
to hold Monte Video, from which commanding the trade of 
the interior, Buenos Ayres would, in the end, have found it 
necessary to come to terms of accommodation, highly to the 
advantage of ]Jritish commerce. 

The disposition to emancipate South America was first com- 
niunicated to a British minister in the beginning of 1790, when 



646 SOUTH AMERICA. 

the measure was proposed to Mr. Pitt by general Miranda. 
It met, from that minister, witli the most cordial reception ; 
and, as the dispute respecting Nootka Sound was then subsist- 
ing, it was resolved, if Spain did not prevent hostilities by 
submission, to carry the plan into immediate execution. When 
an accommodation was effected, and peace at last decreed, Mr. 
Pitt still assured the general, that the scheme of emancipating 
South America was a measure that would not be lost sight of, 
but would infallibly engage the attention of every minister of 
this country. 

The man by whom this important suggestion was made, 
and in whose breast the scheme of emancipation, if not first 
conceived, seems at least to have been first matured, is a native 
of Caraccas in South America; descended from one of the 
principal families of the country. At the early age of seven- 
teen, he repaired to Spain, and, by the influence of his family, 
obtained a commission in the Spanish army. Early smit by 
the love of letters, lie was anxious to proceed to France for the 
prosecution of his education ; but permission was denied him ; 
and he was forced to bring the masters, whom he could not 
procure in Spain, from France at his own charges. It is an 
anecdote not unworthy of record, that when the inquisition 
ordered his books to be taken from him and burnt, he applied 
to count O'lleilly, inspector general of the Spanish army, to 
see if the order could not be recalled ; but the inspector told 
him, that all he could do was to condole w-ith Jiim, for that the 
same misfortune had happened to himself. 

When France and Spain resolved to take a share in the war 
which was carried on between Great Britain and her American 
colonies, it happened that Miranda was in that part of the 
Spanish army which was destined to co-operate with the 
French. Acting thus, and conversing with the members of a 
more enlightened nation than any he had yet seen, the ideas 
of the young American received that improvement after which 
he aspired ; and, in a scene where the cause of liberty was the 
object of all men's zeal and enthusiasm, and in a country the 
situation of which in so many respects resembled his own, a 
similar destiny for this last was naturally presented to his 



SOUTH AMERICA. 647 

wishes. So deeply was the impression struck, that he has de- 
dicated to this one design ahiiost the whole of his life, and has 
been the prime mover in every scheme that has been proposed 
for the emancipation of the Spanish colonies in America. 

At the termination of the American war, he resigned his 
situation in the service of Spain, and repaired to Europe, with 
a view to study the institutions of the most enlightened nations, 
and to draw from them instruction for the benefit of his native 
country. For this purpose, he came first to Great Britain, 
and proceeded afterwards to Prussia, Austria, Italy, Greece, 
and a part of Turkey. He then proceeded to Russia, where 
he met with prince Potemkin at Cherson, whose notice he at- 
tracted ; and by him was introduced to the empress at Kiow. 
A native of Spain, travelling in search of knowledge, and im- 
proved by it, appeared to her in the light of a phenomenon. 
She invited him to remain in Russia; for, in Spain, she said, 
he would be burnt; — Spain was not a country for him. When 
Miranda opened to her, in reply, the views to which he had 
devoted himself in behalf of his country, she manifested the 
strongest interest in the accomplishment of his scheme, and 
assured him, in case of his success, she would be the foremost 
to support the independence of South America. She trans- 
mitted a circular letter to her ambassadors in Europe, to afford 
him her imperial protection every where ; and gave him an in- 
vitation to draw upon her treasury for his personal support. 

It was after this tour through Europe, in which Miranda 
spent several years, that he returned, by the m ay of France, 
to England ; and being, by his friend governor Pownal, intro- 
duced to Mr. Pitt, proposed to him the plan, of which the 
submission of Spain on the question at issue })revented the ex- 
ecution. At the time when the prospect was thus, for an in- 
definite period, closed upon him in England, and the first 
promising movements of liberty in France were attracting the 
curious from every quarter of the world, iNIiranda returned to 
witness the great scenes that were there passing, and to obtain, 
if possible, from France, in her new situation, the same favour 
to South America, Avhich in her old she had bestowed upon 
the United States. By his companions in anys, whom he had 



648 SOUTH AMERICA. 

recently known in America, he was speedily drawn into some 
connexion with the great leaders at that time in public affliirs, 
and when the revolution was first called upon to draw the 
sword, he was invited and prevailed upon to take a command 
in her armies. 

It was while he was serving with Dumourier in the Nether- 
lands, that the scheme for revolutionising Spain and her colo- 
nies was first conceived by the republican leaders. But 
Miranda thought the republicans were proceeding too hastily, 
and refused his co-operation. During some years subsequent 
to this occurrence, the matter was sunk in oblivion amid the 
violent struggles which agitated Europe. Many months had 
not elapsed when the reign of Robespierre began ; and Mi- 
randa, Avith so many other virtuous men, were buried in the 
dungeons of the revolution. Though tried, and clearly ac- 
quitted by the revolutionary tribunal, which declared that not 
a shadow of suspicion attached to him, he was still detained in 
prison, and escaped the guillotine only by one of those acci- 
dents by which so many others were delivered up to it. 

About the same time, or a little after, Miranda was met at 
Paris by deputies and commissioners from Mexico, and the 
other principal provinces of South America, who had been 
sent to Europe for the purpose of concerting with him the 
measures to be pursued for accomplishing the independence of 
their country. It was decided accordingly, that Miranda 
should, in their name, again repair to England, and make 
such offers to the British government as, it was hoped, might 
induce it to lend them the assistance requisite for the great 
object of their wishes ; and it accorded with the plans of Mr. 
Pitt, at that time, to enter with promptitude into the sclieme 
proposed for the emancipation of South America. The pro- 
posal was, that North America should furnish 10,000 troops, 
and the British government agreed to find money and ships. 
But the president Adams declined to transmit an immediate 
answer, and the measure was, in consequence, postponed. 

In the bemnnino; of 1801, during lord Sidmouth's adminis- 
tration, the project was again revived. The plans of govern- 
ment to be recommended to the people of South America, 



SOUTH AMERICA. 649 

were considered and approved ; even the military operations 
were sketched and arranged; and the preparations far ad- 
vanced for the expedition. The preliminaries, however, of 
the peace of Amiens were signed ; and the measure was put 
off to a future opportunity. 

When war was again declared against France in 1803, the bu- 
siness of South America formed one of the principal designs of 
ministers : and measures were taken to carry it into effect, the 
moment that the peace which still subsisted with Spain should 
be broken. This event did not occur till 1804, when Mr. Pitt 
was again at the head of administration. The measure was 
now prosecuted with zeal ; lord Melville and Sir Home Pop- 
ham were employed in arranging with general Miranda the 
whole details of procedure ; when the execution was again 
suspended by the affairs of Europe, and by the hopes and ex- 
ertions of the third coalition. 

The prospect thus appearing shut upon them in Europe, 
the South American exiles from the provinces of Caraccas and 
Santa Fe, residing in the United States of America, and in the 
island of Trinidad, pressed general IMiraiida, and at last pre- 
vailed upon him, to quit his residence in this country, and 
make an effort in their behalf through the medium of America 
alone. But on arriving there, the public aid of the govern- 
ment was refused, lest offence should be given to France. 
The hesitating and wavering policy of the British court also 
deprived Miranda of the succours he expected from the go- 
vernor of Trinidad. 

He sailed from Trinidad on the S-ith of July, with nine 
ships of war, and arrived on the Sd of August oft' the city of 
Coro, where his troops were landed under cover of the vessels, 
and with very slight resistance. Coro was taken by assault, 
and some other trifling advantages were gained ; but the pro- 
gress of this enterprising general was soon checked by an irre- 
sistible force. Most of his adherents were taken, and he him- 
self with difficulty escaped. 

This expedition, however, revived and strengthened the 
desire of independence, which had been long cherished in the 
Spanish colonies; and which received additional stimulus, 
9S 4 N 



650 SOUTH AMERICA. 

from the degraded and hopeless state the mother country ex- 
hibited. 

This disposition was first evinced in the latter end of 1809, 
by the deposition of the archbishop of La Plata, who held the 
highest civil authority in La Paz ; and the formation of a de- 
mocratic government. This was followed by a movement of 
the inhabitants of the Caraccas, who seized their public func- 
tionaries, and forced them on board ship. The revolutionary 
spirit spread rapidly through the vast regions of Terra Firma, 
and reached the western confines of the continent. At Quito, 
upwards of 4000, of all sexes and ages, perished in the strug- 
gle; but the revolutionists at last triumphed. The adherents 
of Old Spain, however, which comprehended all the regular 
troops, and most of the priests and civil officers, formed 
a strong party, and kept possession of several important 
places. 

When the Spanish nation rose in arms against the usurpa- 
tion of Bonaparte, they were enthusiastically seconded by the 
South Americans. But the Cortes treated their generous fel- 
low citizens in the colonies with neglect and contempt. They 
even manifested unequivocal symptoms of drawing tighter the 
bonds in which they had long been kept. The emissaries of 
Bonaparte in the colonies were thus enabled to form a strong 
party. Besides this, there were two other parties ; one of in- 
dependents, and a party desirous of retaining their allegiance 
to Ferdinand. 

While the people of tlie Caraccas were still angry and dis- 
appointed by the imbecility, tyranny, and impolicy of the re- 
gency, intelligence arrived that all who had countenanced or 
adhered to the late revolutionary proceedings were proclaimed 
traitors ; and that the ports were to be in a state of blockade 
till the province shoidd acknowledge, not -merely Ferdinand 
VII., but that the regency at Cadiz were his only true and 
legitimate representatives. In order to support this bold and 
obnoxious measure, the regency, to complete the proofs of 
their folly and imbecility, dispatched a lawyer of the name of 
Catavania, who, afraid to take up his abode in the Caraccas, 
eame no further than Porto Rico; and from thence issued his 



SOUTH AMERICA. 651 

proclamations, which were impotent, and of no avail in any 
other respect, but in provoking and alienating the colonists. 

That party in the Caraccas, which had long entertained the 
design of separating the province from the mother country, 
now conceived that the time was arrivetl when they could 
easily and safely carry their design into execution ; for this 
purpose, they summoned a general congress of delegates from 
all the principal towns and districts which were favourable to 
their views. This congress met at Caraccas on the 2d of 
March, 1811. As it was still necessary, for some time at 
least, to preserve the appearance of loyalty and attachment to 
their sovereign, they took the oath of fidelity to Ferdinand 
VII., and declared their wish and resolution to continue con- 
nected and in amity with the mother country. At this con- 
juncture Miranda made his appearance; he had been long- 
ambitious to bring about and secure the independence of the 
Spanish colonies ; hitherto his attempts had not been success- 
ful; he was therefore eager to avail himself of these circum- 
stances and events so favourable to his plans ; and having 
procured himself to be elected for one of the most inconsidera- 
ble towns in the province, his influence and spirit soon began 
to manifest themselves. Before he appeared to animate and 
direct the insurrection, it had been marked with great mildness 
and moderation ; and the movers and first leaders of it were 
content in cautiously and gradually advancing towards tlie at- 
tainment of the objects they were desirous to attain and secure. 
Fai' different was the character of the insurrection, and the 
behaviour of the leading members of the congress, after Mi- 
randa gained access to it. 

One of the first fruits of this change of character appeared 
in the deputies, who so lately had renewed their oatii of fide- 
lity to Ferdinand, abjuring his authority; declaring them- 
selves, and their country at the same time, absolved from all 
dependence upon or allegiance to the crown of Spain ; while 
tliey constituted the provinces, of which they were deputies, 
into free and independent states, under the title and designa- 
tion of the limited provinces of Venezuela, 



652 SOUTH AMERICA. 

A civil war with all its horrors and cruelties now com- 
menced : each parly proscribed the other, and inflicted the 
most summary punishment on those who fell into their power. 
Many persons were arrested and thrown into prison on suspi- 
cion ; some were banished; others put to death ; and in short 
all those scenes which characterised and disgraced the com- 
mencement of the French revolution, were acted in the Carac- 
cas, with equal violence and ferocity, though in a more confined 
theatre. The European and Creole families in general, natu- 
rally were disposed to resist these proceedings ; they of course 
felt the power and vengeance of Miranda and his partisans. 
Valencia, which is principally inhabited by old Creole families, 
at the commencement of the insurrection, had sent deputies to 
the congress ; but afterwards disapproving of their proceedings, 
and especially of the declaration of Independence, it deserted 
the party of Miranda. To punish it for this defection, he 
marched against it with a large body of troops, and inflicted 
on its inhabitants a most severe punishment. 

These disturbances and violent proceedings naturally alarm- 
ed the governors of the neighbouring provinces. On their 
first breaking out, the viceroy of Santa Fe de Bogota ordered, 
in the most strict and peremptory manner, that all communi- 
cation should be closed and cut off between his government 
and the insurgents. But his efforts to guard the provinces 
subject to his jurisdiction from the spreading and overwhelm- 
ing evil were unavailing. In them the same causes existed, 
which had existed in the Caraccas, and produced there a sepa- 
ration from the mother country and a civil war: one party 
were afraid and suspicious of their magistrates and governors, 
as attached to the French interest ; while another party were 
desirous of shaking off the authority of Spain. Under such 
circumstances, gi*eat caution, prudence, and moderation were 
neccssaiy in order to preserve the public peace : unfortunately 
these qualities did not exist. On the contrary, the corregidor 
of Socono, actuated by a rash and violent spirit, ordered the 
troops under his command to fire upon the populace, who had 
assembled, unarmed, but mutinous. Thus was the' spark set 



SOUTH AMERICA. 653 

to the inflammable materials, which had been long accumulat- 
ing. The insurrection broke out and spread rapidly. The 
inhabitants of the neighbouring district, having learnt the 
outrage which the corregidor had committed against the peo- 
ple of Socono, came into the town in great numbers; and 
having compelled him to take refuge in a convent, starved 
him into surrendering. The town now threw off its depend- 
ance and allegiance; appointed a junta; and transmitted to 
the government of Santa Fe an account and vindication of its 
proceedings. Nearly at the same time, the populace of the 
capital of this province had manifested strong symptoms of 
disaffection and tumult ; the viceroy therefore, unable to put 
down by force of arms the insurgents of Socono, consented 
that they should establish a junta, of which he was appointed 
the president. 

For a very short time after these proceedings in Santa Fe, the 
insurgents appeared disposed to retain the show of allegiance 
to Ferdinand VII. : but an event which took place at Quito, 
and which excited universal detestation throughout Spanish 
America, made them throw aside the mask, and avow their 
determination to be free and independent of the crown of 
Spain. This event, so fatal to the cause and character of the 
mother country, was the massacre at Quito of a great number 
of the principal Creoles of that city, by a body of troops under 
the direction and in the service of the viceroy of Lima. As 
soon as intelligence of this massacre reached Santa Fe, the 
viceroy was deprived of his situation and authority, both as 
president of the junta and governor of the province. In order 
to follow the revolutionary course regularly and completely, 
the ancient name of New Granada was changed into Cundina- 
marca. The insurgents of this province, however, still stop- 
ped short of the proceedings of those of the Caraccas; for 
though they abjured the provisional governments of Spain, 
they acknowledged Ferdinand VII. as their legitimate sove- 
reign : this remnant of loyalty so much displeased the insur- 
gents of the Caraccas, that they remonstrated with them on 
the subject; declaring that they will acknowledge no form of 
government but what they make for themselves. 



65^ SOUTH AMERICA. 

The events which have occurred in the province of Buenos 
Ayrcs afford another proof and example of tlie mischief and 
evil which have resulted from this revolutionary spirit. The 
town of Buenos Ayres had many peculiar causes of complaint 
against the government of Spain, besides causes which ope- 
rated on her, as well as on the rest of Spanish America. The 
greatest number of its inhabitants are merchants : of course 
the absurd restrictions placed upon the commerce of her colo- 
nies by Spain were severely felt by them ; and as t!ie, articles 
which they export arc chiefly of a perishable nature, whatever 
suspends or interrupts commerce must fall heavilv on them. 
Suffering from these circumstances, they had frequently com- 
plained of the monopoly of the mother country, as pressing on 
them with peculiar severity ; nor were the other inhabitants of 
Buenos Ayres without their grievances and cause of complaint 
against the mother country. Creoles of the oldest families, 
and of the highest rank and character, saw themselves de- 
prived of the offices of the state, in order that they might be 
filled by men of very doubtful character, of mean rank, and 
destitute of talents, from old Spain. In short, at Buenos 
Ayres, as in every other part of Spanish America, the conduct 
of the government of Spain was the same: it is difficult to 
pronounce. or ascertain whether it was more unjust or impolitic ; 
whether it was more calculated to injure the colonies or the 
mother country ; whether it was the result of extreme folly or 
of extreme wickedness, or of both combined. 

It is not to be wondered at, that in the town of Buenos 
Ayres the revolution was brought about and completed with- 
out any difficulty or resistance. The viceroy either perceiving 
objection and resistance useless, or disposed to coincide with 
the principles and views of the insurgents, gave up his autho- 
rity quietly ; but it was otherwise in the other parts of the 
province : they did not feel so acutely and extensively an Bue- 
nos Ayrf s the oppression of the mother country ; nor were the 
inhabitants in general so much inclined to the principles on 
which the revolutionists of Buenos Ayres acted. This differ- 
ence of opinion and conduct was principally visible at Monte 
Video ; the town recognised the regency of Cadiz ; a civil war 



SOUTH AMERICA. 655 

commenced between it and Buenos Ayres ; and while the lat- 
ter besieged Monte V'ideo by land, Monte Video, aided by the 
Spanish marine, the presence and influence of which had at 
first induced it to acknowledge the regency at Cadiz, threat- 
ened Buenos Ayres from the river. In the midst of this civil 
war, the British admiral and the British naval officei's on that 
station, had a diflicult and delicate task to execute : they were 
applied to by both parties, but very judiciously declined tak- 
ing part with either; contenting themselves with protecting 
the Britisii ships and merchants. 

Besides Monte Video, Cordova, another town in the viceroy- 
alty of Buenos Ayres, about 500 miles from it, in the interior, 
became the scene of a counter-revolution, under Liniers and 
other adherents of Spain. On many accounts this counter-re- 
volutionary party was dreaded by the insurgents of Buenos 
Ayres ; the leader of it, Liniers, was a person of great influ- 
ence and considerable talents, he also was deservedly popular 
at Buenos Ayres. Many attempts were made to gain him 
over, but these failing, a large body of troops was dispatched 
from Buenos Ayres against Cordova: on their approach, the 
leaders of the counter-revolution, apprehensive either that the 
people were not able to cope with regular forces, or suspicious 
of their steadiness and attachment, precipitately fled, and at- 
tempted to reach the frontiers of Peru. In this attempt, 
however, they did not succeed : they were pursued and taken ; 
and, without even the foi'ni of trial, put to immediate death. 
Liniers surrendered himself; but this did not save his life: 
two days after his surrender, he was shot through the head. 

In the mean time, the viceroy of Lima, having received in- 
formation of the revolutionary proceedings at Buenos Ayres, 
determined to crush them if possible ; for this purpose he 
raised a considerable army, and marched towards the Andes. 
The army sent from Buenos Ayres to attack Cordova heard 
of the approach of the viceroy while they were at that city ; 
and having completely succeeded in the object for which they 
were sent, their leader resolved to advance and meet the vice- 
roy of Lima. The hostile armies met at Suipacha, in the be- 
ginning of November, 1810; an action took place, and the 



656 SOUTH AMERICA. 

insurgents were victorious : the consequence and the reward 
of their victory was, the possession of Potosi, and of the 
greater part of the upper provinces. The army of Peru, 
however, though defeated, was not destroyed, nor even greatly 
weakened or discouraged : they rallied ; and on the 10th of 
June, 1811, completely defeated and dispersed the army of 
Buenos Ayres at Desaguedro. 

But the state of the Spanish provinces in America was such, 
that no permanently beneficial effects to the counter-revolu- 
tionists could arise from their victories ; for while they were 
pursuing or defeating one hostile army, another rose up : the 
victorious army of Peru were prevented from pursuing their 
advantage, and regaining possession of the country which they 
had lost in November, 1810, by the intelligence that an insur- 
rection had broken out at Arequipa on the South sea, against 
tvhich it was judged expedient that they should immediately 
proceed. 

In the mean time, the war between Buenos Ayres and 
Monte Video continued, and was carried on with great exer- 
tion and implacability. We have already mentioned that the 
English wisely preserved a strict neutrality ; at the same time 
they conducted themselves in such a manner, as fpr some time 
to prevent the hostilities from becoming violent and cruel. 
For a considerable length of time, Buenos Ayres seemed to 
gain upon Monte Video ; although the latter, by her superi- 
ority at sea, and consequent command of the navigation of the 
river, frequently distressed Buenos Ayres very much. In the 
beginning of 1811, affairs took a different turn and assumed a 
different aspect. The regency sent out Elio, an officer of ma- 
rine, a man of great activity and resolution, but of a violent 
temper and character : he at first attempted to persuade the 
junta of Buenos Ayres to receive and recognise him as viceroy 
of the province; failing in this attempt, he attacked their 
ships, destroyed their commerce, menaced the city itself with 
bombardment, and threatened to call in a Portuguese army 
from the Brazils to assist him in his designs, and in the sup- 
port of his authority. He did not, however, content himself 
with these open and spirited measures ; he had also recourse 



SOUTH AMERICA. 657 

to Intrigue, and contrived to introduce or secure partisans in 
Buenos Ayres itself. The junta found themselves in a most 
critical and perilous situation ; threatened by a hostile army 
from without, and surrounded within by men whom they 
could not trust, and who were ready to betray the city into 
the power of Elio. In this emergency they recalled an army 
which they had sent to the Portuguese frontier of Paraguay, 
and sent it against Monte Video ; and banished all Europeans 
who could not find security for their good behaviour. 

After this the war languished. Several affairs took place, 
but nothing decisive occurred. At length, the government of 
Buenos Ayres succeeded in establishing a respectable marine, 
which was put under the connnand of one Brown, an English- 
man. But subsequently this adventurer betrayed his trust, 
and sailed to the West Indies. However, the principal enemy 
of this republic was now unexpectedly subdued from another 
quarter, for an army of Portuguese took possession of Monte 
Video. The partisan Artigas on this moved around the sur- 
rounding country, from which he collected subsistence for his 
army. 

At length, when the Bourbons were restored to the thrones 
of Spain and France, Ferdinand sent a formidable expedition 
under Morilla to deliver South America. But although the 
royal general commanded a body of veterans, he failed in re- 
ducing the more high-minded patriots, who foiled him in 
several engao-ements. However, having received some rein- 
forcements, he succeeded in capturing the city of Carthagena, 
when he obeyed the mandates of his master, by sacrificing 
hundreds of the patriots, without distinction of age or sex. 
But this cruelty only tended to unite and exasperate the peo- 
ple, who flew to arms in every direction, and the victorious 
general found himself blockaded in this city. After a despe- 
rate conflict, he extricated himself, and retired into winter 
quarters. 

In the mean time, thousands of gallant men, particularly 
Englishmen, whom peace had left without employment, flocked 
to the independent standard, and strengthened the army of 
Boliver. Admiral Biron also was indefatigable in organising 

4 



658 SOUTH AMERICA. 

the Venezuelian fleet, which rode triumphant on the coast, and 
even carried the terror of the patriotic arms to the entrance of 
the harbour of Cadiz. In few instances durst the Spaniards 
engage the repubhcan vessels, which were mostly manned by 
English and American seamen. 

The government of Buenos Ayres now found themselves at 
liberty to adopt measures in furtherance of the general cause ; 
and accordingly an army was equipped and sent to liberate 
Chili, which had been subdued by an expedition sent from 
Spain. They were met on the frontiers by the royal army, 
and a battle took place: but the enthusiasm of the patriots 
was irresistible ; the royalists were defeated and dispersed, aiid 
the fine province of Chili was instantly liberated. 

Early m January, 1818, the hostile armies in the north of 
South America again came into contact, and the bloody Mo- 
rilla was defeated near Calaboya, into which place he retired. 
He afterwards retreated upon Sombrero, followed by the victo- 
rious Boliver, who again defeated him in two actions, and then 
blocked him up in a most exposed and unhealthy position. 
The royalists made a most vigorous effort to extricate their 
main army ; but a reinforcement of 3500 men were met upon 
their march, and the Avhole were either killed or taken. Such 
is the situation of the principal armies at present ; and from 
the weakness and unpopularity of the Spanish government, 
the insubordination manifested by the troops, and the formida- 
ble supplies of men and arms procured by the patriots in Eng- 
land and Ireland, there remains but little doubt that the next 
campaign will establish the independence of the South Ameri- 
cans upon a firm basis. 

During the successful eareei- of Boliver m 1817, Sir Gregor 
Maco-regor took Amelia island; but tlie government of the 
United States refused to recognise his authority,- and this con> 
quest was -abandoned. The general then i-eturned to England, 
purchased a great quantity of military stores, and raised a 
■strong body of men, with which he again sailed to the scene 
of action. At Jamaica he was joined by great part of a dis- 
banded regiment, and from hence he proceeded to Porto Bello, 
'jiljieh })e took by surprise Jlnwever, in a short time, either 



SOUTH AMERICA. 659 

through negligence or treachery, lie in his turn was surprised 
by the Spanish troops, and narrowly escaped on board of a 
vessel. Macgregor at the present is at Aux Cayes, with a 
fine brig and 1^0 men. 

The revolution in Peru first broke out in La Paz, and 
afterwards in El Cusco, the ancient city of the Incas. But 
the patriots seem safe on the side of the South seas, being 
protected by lord Cochrane, one of the most able and gallant 
warriors that ever drew a sword. 

Lord Cochrane has conimenced that teasing sort of warfare 
for which he is so well qvialified, and by which he kept the 
whole French coast in the Mediterranean seas in a state of 
alarm and anxiety all last war. His movements are made 
with the rapidity of an eagle; he has scarce pounced upon the 
place and made it his victim, before he replumes his wing and 
descends upon another, carrying all before him. His lord- 
ship's vessels, although heavy in guns, are light in their hulls, 
and incapable of laying alongside of batteries; therefore his 
attacks are more diversions and excursions for plunder, to ac- 
custom his men to harass and be harassed, than any serious 
desire t^" occupying the place he assails. He is incessantly 
training his men lo the use of the pike, tomahawk, and broad- 
sword, deternuned when he meets with an old Spanish ship, to 
attempt her by boarding at once, the sides of his ship being 
too weak for withstanding a cannonade. It is not forgotten 
bv his men, that his lordship, in the Speedy brig of 14 guns 
and 45 men, boarded and carried the Elgama Spanish frigate 
of 32 guns and 300 men, and they prognosticate they will be 
now equally successful. 

The squadron of his lordship bombarded Lima three times, 
with a hope of inducing the Spanish s([uadron to come out and 
give the attack, but the wily Dons chained their ships to the 
shore, and very quietly saw the houses knocked to pieces and 
the inhabitants killed, over their own mast heads. During the 
last attack, a gun vessel, mounting six carronades, pushed out 
of the harbour, and attempted to cover a ship of 400 tons 
burthen, whose cables had been cut by the shot from the 
O'Higgins, and was drifted into the open bay. Lord Coch- 



600 SOUTH AMERICA. 

rane, in command of the boats of his squadron, captured the 
ship and sent her off to sea ; he then made a dash at the gun, 
vessel, and succeeded in bringing her off wlien she had taken 
shelter within pistol s.hot of a twelv e gun battery ; on board of 
the vessel were 212 men, in the boats with his lordship 42, 
and several of them boys. The loss on his part was 17 killed, 
and wounded. Tlie gun vessel, coppered and schooner-rigged, 
was immediately manned and conmiissioned by a lieutenant. 
The merchant ship was taken out to sea, her cargo was found 
to be very valuable, and she liad in boxes nearly two million 
dollars, these were removed, a party of men sent on board, 
with a lieutenant, who has proceeded to the^general rendezvous 
for more guns and hands ; she is called the Nostra del Carmen, 
and is in effect a trading frigate, will mount 36 guns, and be a 
fine cruiser. 

His lordship harangued his nien, a motley crew of English, 
Spanish, niulattoes, and Americans, and distributed to each 
100 dollars per man, saying he would trust to fortune for his 
share at a future day ; the enthusiasm of his crews is only ex- 
celled by the state of discipline they are in. His lordship has 
burnt and de«troyed six small armed vessels, and upwards of 
20 traders, previously taking out of them every thing of value ; 
he has also destruyed several small batteries on the coast and 
watch-towers. He is in daily expectation of the arrival of a 
frigate from the United States, formerly a British East India- 
man; it is saitl she carries 61 guns and 500 men, and will 
bring with her 15,000 stand of arms, and a complete battering 
train of artillery , thus a competent force awaits the arrival of 
old Spain"'s lazarettos and sinking hulks, of whom his lordship 
speaks with the greatest contempt. Attached to lord Coch- 
rane's squadron, and spread over an extent of coast of more 
than 500 leagues, ai-e 40 small half-decked vessels with a gun 
in the bow, commanded by petty officers, and about 20 men 
in each ; these effectually enforce the blockade of the ports, 
and are known to have taken several valuable prizes. 

A writer in the Edinburgh Review says, that in looking 
around for barriers to resist the spirit of military aggrandise- 
ment in Europe, and resources to supply those the channel of 



SOUTH AMERICA. 661 

which are closed upon us, every eye, we believe, will vest on 
South America. ' A country,' he proceeds, ' far surpassing 
the whole of Europe in extent, and still more perhaps in na- 
tural fertility, which has been hitherto unfortunately excluded 
from the beneficent intercourse of nations, is, after a few pru- 
dent steps on our part, ready to o[)en to us the immense re- 
sources of her territory, of a population at present great, and 
likely to increase with most extraordinary celerity, and of a 
position unparalleled on the face of the globe for the astonish- 
ing combination of commercial advantages which it appears to 
unite. From the maturity for some beneficent change, which 
circumstances and events have for a series of years been work- 
ing in those magnificent regions, and from the mighty effects 
thev are capable of yielding for the consolation of afilicted hu- 
manity, it seems as if that Providence, which is continually 
bringing good out of evil, were about to open a career of happi- 
ness in the new world, at the very moment when, by the mys- 
terious laws of its administration, it appears to have decreed a 
period of injustice and calamity in the old. 

' For the mighty benefits to be expected from a just and 
wise arrangement of the affairs of Spanish America, we are 
not left to the results of speculation, clear and unambiguous as 
they are ; we can appeal to experience and to fact. We have 
the gi-and experiment of North America before us, which the 
inhabitants of the South are so ambitious to imitate. The 
states of North America were our own colonies, and they had 
been always beneficently administered ; yet has their indepen- 
dence been far more profitable to us than their subjection. 
What is the result with regard to commerce alone? — the very 
extraordinary fact, that for several past years we have export- 
ed more goods of British growth and manufacture to the 
United States of America, than to the whole of Europe taken 
together. If such are the benefits resulting from the prospe- 
rity of the United States, how many times greater will be those 
which must necessarily flow from the prosperity of South 
Amei'ica.'* How many times more extensive is the country 
which the Spanish Americans possess ? That country, from 
enjoying a much greater diversity of climate compared with 



G62 . SOUTH AMERICA. 

Europe than North America, is much more richly provided 
with those commodities for which Europe presents the most 
eager demand. Of the soil of South America, a great part is 
much more favourable to cultivation, much more fruitful, and 
cleared by nations who had made some progress in civilization. 
Of all the countries in the world, South America possesses the 
most important advantages in respect to internal navigation, 
being intersected in all directions by mighty rivers, which will 
bear, at little cost, the produce of her extensive provinces to 
the ocean. If the population of the United States, amounting 
perhaps to 6,000,000 souls, afford so extraordinary a demand 
for British commodities, what may not the population of South 
America, extending already to no less than 16,000,000, be 
expected to afford f It is no doubt true, that the moral and 
intellectual habits of the people of South America are not so 
favourable to improvement as were those of North America. 
Their industry has been cramped, — their minds have been 
held in ignorance by a bad government ; hence they are indo- 
lent and superstitious. But remove the cause, and the effects 
will cease to follow. So sweet are the fruits of labour, Avhere- 
ever the labourer enjoys them unimpaired, that the motives to 
it are irresistible, — and his activity may be counted upon with 
the certainty of a law of nature. The deduction, therefore, is 
so very small which, on this score, it will be requisite to make, 
that a very subordinate proportion of the superior advantages 
in soil and climate which the South American enjoys, will suf- 
fice to compensate the better habits with which the inhabitant 
of the United States commenced his career. 

' In respect to wants, the two countries eminently resemble 
one another. From the immense extent of uncultivated soil, 
which it will require many ages to occupy, the whole bent of 
the population will be turned to agriculture; and it will be 
their interest, and their desire, to draw almost the whole of 
the manufactured goods, which their riches will enable them 
to consume, from other countries. The country to which the 
greater part of this prodigious demand will come, is unques- 
tionably Great Britain. So far before all other countries, in 
respect to manufacturing advantages, does she stand, that 



SOUTH AMERICA. 663 

'Were the circumstances of Europe much more likely to encou- 
rage industry than unhappily thev are, we could meet with no 
rival; and as we supply North America, so could we South, 
on terms which would infallibly draw to us the greater part of 
her custom. 

' In enumerating, however, the advantages of a commercial 
nature, which would assuredly spring from the emancipation 
of South America, we have not yet noticed the greatest per- 
haps of all, — the mightiest event, probably, in favour of the 
peaceful intercourse of nations, which the physical circum- 
stances of the globe present to the enterprise of man : — we 
mean, the formation of a navigable passage across the isthmus 
of Panama, — the junction of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. 
It is remarkable, that this magnifiuent undertaking, pregnant 
with consequences so important to mankind, and about which 
so little is known in this country^ is .so far from being a ro- 
mantic and chimerical project, that it is not only practicable 
but easy. The river Chagrc, which falls into the Atlantic at 
the town of the Siune name, about eighteen leagues to the 
westward of Porto Bello, is navigable as far as Cruzes, within 
five leagues of Panama. But though the formation of a canal 
from this place to Panama, facilitated by the valley through 
which the present road passes, appears to present no very for- 
midable obstacles, there is still a better expedient. At the 
distance of about five leagues from the mouth of the Chagre, 
it receives the river Trinidad, which is navigable to Embarca- 
dero; and from that place to Panama is a distance of about 
30 miles, through a level country, with a fine river to supply 
water for the canal, and no diriiculty to counteract the noble 
undertaking. The ground has been surveyed, and not the 
practicability only, but the facility of the work, completely 
ascertained. In the next place, the imjxntant requisite of 
safe harbours, at the two extremities of the canal, is here sup- 
plied to the extent of our utmost wishes. At the mouth of 
the Chagre is a fine bay, which received the British 7i gun 
ships, in 1740, when captain Knowles bombarded the castle of 
St. Lorenzo ; and at the other extremity is the famous harbour 



664 SOUTH AMERICA. 

of Panama. Nor is this the only expedient for opening the 
important navigation between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. 
Further north is the grand lake of Nicaragua, which, by itself, 
almost extends the navigation from sea to sea. Into the At- 
lantic ocean it falls by a navigable river, and reaches to within 
three leagues of the gulf of Papagayo in the Pacific. Mr. 
Jeffery's tells us, it was the instruction of the king of Spain to 
the governor of St. John's castle, not to permit any British 
subject to pass either up or down this lake ; " for if ever the 
English came to a knowledge of its importance and value, 
they would soon make themselves masters of this part of the 
country." > 

' We are tempted to dwell for a moment upon the prospects 
which the accomplishment of this splendid, but not difficult 
enterprise, opens to our nation. It is not merely the immense 
commerce of the western shores of America, extending almost 
from pole to pole, that is brought, as it were, to our door ; it 
is not the intrinsically important, though comparatively mode- 
rate branch of our commeice, tiiat of the South sea whalers, 
that will alone undergo a complete revolution, by saving t!ie 
tedious and dangerous voyage round cape Horn : — the whole 
of those immense interests which we hold deposited in the re- 
gions of Asia, become augmented in value, to a degree which, 
at present, it is not easy to conceive, by obtaining direct access 
to them across the Pacific ocean. It is the same thing as if, 
by some great revolution of the globe, our eastern possessions 
were bi'ought nearer to us. The voyage across the Pacific, 
the winds both for the eastern and western passage being fair 
and constant, is so expeditious and steady, that the arrival of 
the ships mav be calculated almost with the accuracy of a mail 
coach. Immense would be the traffic which would immedi- 
ately begin to cover that ocean, by denomination Pacific. All 
the riches of India and of China would move towards America. 
The riches of Europe and of America would move towards 
Asia. Vast depots would be formed at the great commercial 
towns which would immediately arise at the two e;<tremities of 
the central canal ;— the ooods would be in a course of perpe- 



SOUTH AMERICA. 665 

tual passage from the one depot to the other ; — and Avould be 
received by the ships, as they arrived, which were prepared to 
convey them to their ultimate destination. 

' Is it to(» much to hope, that China and Japan tliemselves, 
thus brought so much nearer the influence of European civih- 
zation — much more constantly and powerfully subject to its 
o})eration — would not be able to resist the salutary impression, 
but would soon receive important changes in ideas, arts, man- 
ners, and institutions? The hope rests, at least, on such 
strong foundations, that it seems to rise even to a certainty ; — 
and then what glorit)us results might be expected for the whole 
of Asia, that vast proportion of the earth, which, even in its 
most favoured parts, has been in all ages condenmed to semi- 
barbarism, and the miseries of despotic power ? One thing, at 
least, is certain, that South America, which stands so much in 
need of industrious inhalntants, would receive myriads of labo- 
rious Chinese, who already swarm in all parts of the eastern 
archipelago in quest of employment and of food. This, to 
her, would be an acquisition of incredible importance : and 
the connexion thus formed between the two countries, Avould 
still further tend to accelerate the acquisition of enlightened 
views and civilised manners in China herself. 

' Such are a few of the results which there is reason to ex- 
pect from a regulation of the affairs of South America. Never, 
perhaps, was an opportunity offered to a nation, of effecting so 
great a change in behalf of hiunan kind, as Great Britain, 
from a wonderful combination of circumstances, is now called 
upon, by so many motives, to help South America to accom- 
plish. The measure has, for a considerable number of years, 
been mingled, in her councils, among the number of her re- 
solves.'* 

After reading this rapid sketch of the Inmicnse advantages 
to be derived from the establishment of independence in South 
America, a man may well view with astonishment the silly 
and impolitic bill which lately received the sanction of the Bri- 
tish legislature, restraining British subjects from entering into 
the service of the patriots, or supplying them with warlike 
stores. The ill effect of this foolish measure is greatly aug- 

4 P 



666 SOUTH AMERICA. 

mented, when the distressed state of trade and manufactures 
is considered ; and the just displeasure of the Americans must 
be heightened, to witness English ships of war affording pro- 
tection to the persons and treasures of their enemies. 

According to a recent calculation, the following account has 
been given of the population and force of the South American 
repubhcans : 

The republic of New Grenada and Venezuela ; population 
three millions, and the army 25,000 effective men. 

The republic of Rio de la Plata ; the population three mil- 
lions, and the army 30,000 effective men. 

The republic of Chili ; the population one million and a 
half; and the army 7000 disciplined men. 

The republic of Peru ; the population three millions, the 
strength of the army unknown. 



POKTUGUESE DOMINIONS. 

Extent and Boundaries. HP HE dominions in South America, 

held bv the small kingdom of 
Portugal, extend from the frontier of Dutch Guiana, lat. 3 
deg. north, to port St. Pedro, south lat. 32 deg., being 35 de- 
grees, or 2100 geographical miles; and the breadth, from 
cape St. Roque to the furthest Portuguese settlement on the 
river of Amazons, called St. Paul de Omaguas, equals, if it do 
not exceed, that extent. This vast territory, rivalling the em- 
pires of antiquity, is still more unknown than the Spanish 
possessions; partly from the want of science and curiosity, 
partly on account of the thick forests which cover the expan- 
sive plains of the Maranon and its auxiliary streams. Though 
long in strict alliance with Portugal, we have little precise 



SOUTH AMERICA. 667 

knowledge of Brazil ; and still less of the interior country so 
absurdly called Amazonia, but more justly by the Spaniards 
the Land of the Missions. The chief city of Brazil was for- 
merly Bahia or San Salvador, which has since yielded to Rio 
Janeiro. The others are Para and Cayla near the estuary of 
the Maranon, with a few small settlements on that river ; Per- 
namboco, Sergippe, Paraiba, Villa Grande, &c. ; the chief 
settlements of the Portuguese being only thinly scattered along 
the shoi'es. The fanaticism of the Spaniards and Portuguese 
is an invincible obstacle to the population of some of the finest 
regions of the globe ; while by the free admission of all sects, 
as in the territory of the United States, industry and popula- 
tion would increase with surprising rapidity. 

Name. — Brazil, as is well known, derives its name from the 
wood so called, which is mentioned by Chaucer, and was 
known for centuries before. It is now divided into eight inde- 
pendent governments, besides that of Rio de Janeiro, of which 
alone the governor retains the style of Viceroy of the Brazils. 

Mines. — Concerning the celebrated mines of Brazil there 
was little information, until Mr. Mawe, an English mineralo- 
gist, obtained permission from the prince regent at Rio de Ja- 
neiro to visit the principal gold and diamond districts. The 
gold mines are chiefly situated in the mountains, which give 
source to many streams that flow north and south into the 
Tocantine on one side, and the Parana on the otheu. 

The mountain of Villa Rica, which, twenty years after its 
discovery, was reputed the richest place on the globe, owes its 
celebrity to a party of men, strongly embued with that spirit 
of enterprise that characterised the Lusitanians of former days. 
They penetrated from their capital into these regions, braving 
every hardship, and encountering every difficulty which a sa- 
vage country, infested by still more savage inhabitants, op- 
posed to them. They cut their way through impervious 
woods, carrying their provisions with them, and occasionally 
cultivating small patches of land to afford them food to retreat 
to, in case of necessity, as well as to keep, up a communication 
with their city, St. Paul's. Every inch of ground was dis- 
puted by the barbarous Indians, here called Bootocoodies, 



668 SOUTH AMERICA. 

who were constatitly either attacking them openly or lying in 
ambush, and but too frequently succeeded in surprising some 
of them, or their negroes, whom they immediately sacrificed 
to their horrible appetite for human flesh. They believed the 
negroes to be the great monkies of the wood. The bones of 
the unfortunate sufferers were frequently found exposed, 
shocking^testimonies of the barbarity of their murderers, whom 
the Paulistas, roused to revenge, invariably shot, wherever 
they met them. These exani})les of vengeance answered their 
desired end : the Indians, terrified as well by the noise as by 
the fatal effect of the fire-arms, fled with precipitation, believ- 
ing that the white men commanded lightning and thunder. 

On reaching this mountain, the fame of their success brought 
great numbers of adventurers, between whom and the original 
discoverers several battles took place, until the government in- 
terposed, and took the mines under their own direction. Be- 
tween the'years 1730 and 1750, the mines were in the height 
of their prosperity ;^ the king's fifth, during some years of that 
period, is said to have amounted to at least one million sterling 
annually. The mines which produced this immense wealth 
at length became gradually less abundant ; and, as the pre- 
cious metal disappeared, numbers of the miners retired, some 
to the mother country, loaded with riches, which tempted 
fresh adventurers, and many to Rio de Janeiro and other sea- 
ports, where they employed their large capitals in commerce. 

Mr. Mawe enjoyed the opportunity of visiting the diamond 
works called Mandango, situated on the river Jigitonhonha, 
which employs 1000 negroes, and on particular occasions dou- 
ble that number. ' This rich river," he observes, 'formed by 
the junction of a number of streams which will be hereafter 
noted, is as wide as the Thames at Windsor, and in general 
from three to nine feet deep. The part now in working is a 
curve or elbow, from which the current is diverted into a canal 
cut across the tongue of land round which it winds, the river 
being stopped just beloi^ the head of the canal by an embank- 
ment formed of several thousand bags of sand. This is a 
work of considerable magnitude, and requires the co-operation 
of all the negroes to complete it : for, the river being wide 



SOUTH AMERICA. 669 

and not very shallow, and also occasionally subject to overflows, 
they have to make the embankment so strong as to resist the 
pressure of the water, admitting it to rise four or five feet. 

* The deeper parts of the channel of the river are laid dry 
by means of large caissons, or chain-pumps, worked by a wa- 
ter-wheel. The mud is then carried off, and the cascalhao is 
dug up and removed to a convenient place for washing. The 
stratum of cascalhao consists of the same materials with that 
in the gold district. On many parts, by the edge of the river, 
are large conglomerate masses of rounded pebbles cemented 
by oxide of iron, which sometimes envelope gold and dia- 
monds. They calculate on getting as much cascalhao in the 
dry season as will occupy all their hands during the months 
which are more subject to rain. When carried from the bed 
of the river whence it is dug, it is laid in heaps containing ap- 
parently from five to fifteen tons each. 

' Water is conveyed from a distance, and is distributed to 
the various parts of the work by means of aqueducts, con- 
structed with great ingenuity and skill. Tiie method of 
washing for diamonds at this place is as follows : — A shed is 
erected in the form of a parallelogram, 25 or 30 yards long, 
and about 15 wide, consisting of upright posts which supjjort 
a roof thatched with long grass. Down the middle of the area 
of this shed a current of water is conveyed through a canal 
covered with strong planks, (ni which the cascalhao is laid two 
or three feet thick. On the other side of the area is a flooring 
of planks, from four to five yards long, imbedded in clay, ex- 
tending the whole length of the shed, and having a slope from 
the canal, of three or four inches to a yard. This flooring is 
divided into about twenty compartments or troughs, each 
about three feet wide, by means of planks placed on their 
edge. The upper end of all those troughs (here called canoes) 
communicate with the canal, and are so formed that water is 
admitted into them between two planks that are about an inch 
separate. Through this opening the ciu-rent falls about six 
inches into the trough, and may be directed to any part of it, 
or stopped at pleasure, by means of a small quantity of clay. 



6T0 SOUTH AMERICA. 

Along the lower end of the troughs a small channel is dug to 
carry off the water. 

' On the heap of cascalhao, at equal distances, are placed 
three high chairs for the officers or overseers. After they are 
seated, the negroes enter the troughs, each provided with a 
rake of a peculiar form and short handle, with which he rakes 
into the trough about 50 or 80 pounds weight of cascalhao. 
The water being then let in upon it, the cascalhao is spread 
abroad and continually raked up to the head of the trough, so 
as to be kept in constant motion. This operation is performed 
for the space of a quarter of an hour ; the water then begins 
to run clearer, having washed the enrthy particles away, the 
gravel-like matter is raked up to the end of the trough ; after 
the current flows away quite clear, the largest stones are 
tlu'own out, and afterwards those of inferior size, then the 
whole is examined with great care for diamonds. When a 
negro finds one, he immediately stands upright and claps his 
Iiands, then extends them, holding the gem between his fore- 
finger and thumb; an overseer receives it from him, and de- 
posits it in a gamella or bowl, suspended from the centre of 
the structure, half full of water. In this vessel all the dia- 
monds found in the course of the day are placed, and at the 
close of work are taken out and given to the principal officer, 
who, after they have been weighed, registers the particulars in 
a book kept for that purpose. 

'When a negro is so fortunate as to find a diamond of tiie 
weight of an octavo (17^ carats), much ceremony takes place; 
he is crowned with a wreath of flowers, and carried in proces- 
sion to the administrator, who gives him his freedom, by pay- 
ing his owner for it. He also receives a present of new clothes, 
and is permitted to work on his own account. When a stone 
of eight or ten carats is found, the negro receives two new 
shirts, a complete new suit, with a hat and a handsome knife. 
For smaller stones of trivial amount proportionate premiums 
are given. During my stay at Tejuco, a stone of 16| carats 
was found : it was pleasing to see the anxious desire manifest-^. 
ed by the officers, that it might prove heavy enough to entitle 



SOUTH AMERICA. 671 

tlie poor negro to his freedom ; and when, on being dehvered 
and weighed, it proved only a carat short of the requisite 
weight, all seemed to sympathise in his disappointment. 

' Many precautions are taken to prevent the negroes from 
embezzling diamonds. Although they work in a bent posi- 
tion, and consequently never know whether the overseers are 
watching them or not, yet it is easy for them to omit gathering 
any which they see, and to place them in a corner of the 
trough for the purpose of secreting them at leisure hours, to 
prevent which they are frequently changed while the operation 
is going on. A word of command being given by the over- 
seers, they instantly move into each other's troughs, so that no 
opportunitv of collusion can take place. If a negro be sus- 
pected of having swallowed a diamond, he is confined in a 
strong room until the fact can be ascertained. Formerly the 
punishment inflicted on a negro for smuggling diamonds was 
confiscation of his person to the state : but it being thought 
too hard for the owner to suffer for the offence of his servant, 
the penalty has been commuted for personal imprisonment 
and chastisement. This is a much lighter punishment than 
that which their owners, or any white man, would suffer for a 
similar offence. 

' There is no particular regulation respecting the dress of 
the negroes : they work in the clothes most suitable for the 
nature of their employment, generally in a waistcoat and a 
pair of drawers, and not naked, as some travellers have stated. 
Their hours of labour are from a little before sun-rise until 
sun-set, half an hour being allowed for breakfast, and two 
hours at noon. While washing they change their posture as 
often as they please, which is very necessary, as the work re- 
quires them to place their feet on the edges of the trough, and 
to stoop considerably. This posture is particularly prejudicial 
to young growing negroes, as it renders them in-kneed. Four 
or five times during the day they all rest, when snuff, of 
which they are very fond, is given to them.' 

What is termed the Diamond ground extends about 60 
leagues from north to south, and about eight from east to 
^vest. It was first explored by some enterprising miners from 



en SOUTH AMERICA. 

Villo de Principe, a few years after the establishment of that 
town. The number of diamonds sent over dunnff the first 20 
years after the discovery is said to be almost incredible, and to 
exceed 1000 ounces in weight. This supply could not fail to 
diminish the general value of diamonds, as none had over be- 
fore been known to come from any other part of the globe, 
except India, where the Brazilian diamonds were afterwards 
sent, and found a better market there than in Europe. 

About the year 1772, government took the management of 
the mining district into their own hands. In its present state 
the establishment appears to produce much greater wealth 
than it actually does. During a period of five years, from 
1801 to 1806 inclusive, the expences were 204,000/. ; and the 
diamonds sent to the treasury at Rio de Janeiro weighed 
115,673 carats. The value of gold found in the same period 
amounted to 17,300/. sterling, from which it appears that the 
diamonds actually cost government S'3s. 9d. per carat. These 
years were esteemed singularly productive ; the mines do not, 
in general, yield to government more than 20,000 carats an- 
nually. Exclusive of this amount, there is a vast quantity 
smuggled. 

' The collection of diamonds,' says Mr. Mawe, ' now in the 
possession of the prince regent, is unequalled in number, size, 
and quality, by that of any potentate in the world ; and I 
am credibly informed, that it exceeds in value three millions 
sterling.*" 

Besides iron and precious stones, galena or sulphurite of 
lead, as also antimony, platina, and native bismuth, is found 
in considerable quantities. Copper is very scarce ; and 
scarcely any tin, or cobalt, has been met with. 

Agriculture. — In this extensive €mpire, land is granted in 
large tracts, on proper application; and we may naturally 
suppose that the value of these tracts depends more or less 
upon their situation. It therefore becomes the first object of 
a cultivator, to look out for unoccupied land as near as possi- 
ble to a large town ; good roads and navigable rivers are the 
desiderata next in point of consequence which he attends to. 
When he has made choice of a situation, he apphes to the go- 



SOUTH AMERICA. 673 

vernor of the district, who orders the proper officers to mark 
out the extent required, generally a league or a league and a 
half square, sometimes more. The cultivator then purchases 
as many negroes as he can, and commences his operations by 
erecting habitations for them and himself, which are generally 
miserable sheds, supported by four posts, and commonly called 
ranchos. His negroes are then directed to cut down the trees 
and brushwood growing on the land, to such an extent as he 
thinks they will be able to manage. This done, they set fire to 
all they have cut, as it lies on the ground. Much of the suc- 
cess of his harvest depends upon this burning ; if the whole 
be reduced to ashes, he expects a good crop ; if, through wet 
weather, the felled trees remain only half burnt, he prognosti- 
cates a bad one. When the ground is cleared, the negroes 
dibble it with their hoes, and sow their maize, beans,- or other 
pulse ; during the operation, they cut down any thing very 
much in the way, but never think of working the soil. After 
sowing as much seed as is thought I'equisite, they prepare other 
ground for planting cassada, here called mandioca, the root of 
which is generally eaten as bread by all ranks in Brazil. The 
soil for this purpose is rather better prepared ; it is raked up 
in little round hillocks, not unlike mole-hills, about four feet 
asunder ; into which are stuck cuttings from branches of the 
plant, about an inch thick, and six or eight long ; these soon 
take root, and put forth leaves, shoots, and buds. When 
enough has been planted fn- the entire consumption of the 
farm, the owner, if he is rich enough, prepares means for 
growing and manufacturing sugar. He first employs a car- 
penter to cut wood, and build a mill with wooden rollers for 
crushing the canes, by means of water if a stream is at hand, 
if not, by the help of mules. While some of the negroes are 
assisting the carpenter, others are employed in preparing the 
ground in the same way as for mandioca. Pieces of cane con- 
taining three or four joints, and in length about six inches, cut 
from the growing stem, are laid in the earth nearly horizon- 
tally, and are covered with soil to the depth of about four 
inches. They shoot up rapidly, and in three months have a 
bushy appearance not unhke flags; in twelve or fifteen months 
29 4 Q 



G74 SOUTH 'AMERICA. 

more they are ready for cutting. In rich virgin soil it is not 
uncommon to see canes twelve feet high, and astonishingly 
thick. 

The Indian corn and pulse aie in general ripe in four 
months or eighteen weeks. The average return is two hun- 
dred for one; it is a bad harvest when it falls short of onQ 
hundred and fiftj'. The mandioca is rarely ready to take up iij 
less than eighteen or twenty months ; if the land be suitable, 
it then produces from six to twelve pound weight per plant. 
They grow very little indigo in this neigh bo urhooti, and what 
they have is of indifferent quality. Their pumpkins are of 
enormous size, and sometimes are served up as table vegeta- 
bles, but more frequently given as food to the horses. Me- 
lons here are scarcely palatable. 

In no brancii of husbandry are the farmers so defective as 
m the management of cattle. No artificial grasses are culti- 
vated, no enclosures are made, nor is any fodder laid up 
against the season of scarcity. The cows are never milked 
regularly ; they seem to be considered rather as an incum- 
brance to a farm than a valuable part of the stock. They 
constantly require salt, which is given them once in fifteen or 
twenty days, in small proportions. Their dairies, if such they 
may be called, are managed in so slovenly a manner, that the 
little butter that is made becomes rancid in a few days, and 
the cheese is good for nothing. In this essential department 
they are deplorably deficient ; rarely indeed is there to be seen 
a farm with one convenience belonging to it. For want of 
proper places in which to store their produce, they are obliged 
to lay it in promiscuous heaps ; and it is not uncommon to see 
coffee, cotton, maize, and beans, thrown into the corners of a 
damp shed, and covered with a green hide. One half is inva- 
riably spoiled 'by mould and putridity, and the remainder is 
much deteriorated, through this idle and stupid negligence. 

They feed their pigs on Indian corn in a crude state ; the 
time for confining them to fatten is at eight or ten montlis old ; 
and the quantity consumed for the purpose is eight or ten 
Winchester bushels each. When killed, the lean is cut off 
the sides as clean as possible, the fat is cured with very little 



SOUTH AMERICA. 67d 

salt, and in a few days is ready for market. The ribs, chine- 
bone, and lean parts, are dried for l>ome consumption. 

The farm-houses are miserable hovels of one story, the floor 
neither paved nor boarded, and the walls and partitions formed 
of wieker-work plastered with mud, and never under-drawn. 
For an idea of the kitchen, which ought to be the cleanest and 
most comfortable part of the dwelling, the reader may figure 
to himself a filthy room with an uneven muddy floor, inter- 
spersed with pools of slop-water, and in different parts fire- 
places formed by three round stones to hold the earthen pots 
that are used for boiling meat ; as green wood is the chief 
fuel, the place is almost always filled with smoke, which, find- 
ing no chimney, vents itself through the doors and other aper- 
tures, and leaves all within as black as soot. 

The horses are very fine, and in general docile ; when well 
trained they make excellent chargers. Their size is from 12^ 
to 14i hands, and they vary in price from three pounds to 
twelve. Muleg arc considered as more useful beasts of burden. 
The breed of sheep is quite unattended to, and mutton is 
rarely or never eaten. Here is a very fine and large breed of 
goats, whose milk is generally used for domestic purposes. 
The dogs are very indifferent, and of no distinct race. 

The market is generally well supplied ; and in the fruit 
seasons is stored with pines, grapes, peaches, guavas, bananas, 
a i^ew apples, and an enormous quantity of quinces. Esculent 
plants are grown in great profusion and variety. Here is a 
favourite bulbous root called the cara^ which is equal to the 
best potatoe, and even more farinaceous ; it grows to about 
five inches in diameter, and affords excellent food either boiled 
or roasted. Here are fine cabbages, sallad-herbs, turnips, 
cauliflowers, artichokes, and potatoes ; the latter, though very 
good, are little used : the sweet potatoe is in greater request 
among the natives. ]\Iaize, beans, green peas, and every spe- 
cies of pulse, flourish amazingly. Fowls are cheap, being 
from three-pence to six-pence each ; sjnall pigs from one to 
two shillings ; and flitches of bacon, cured after the mode of 
the country, at about two-pence per pound. Turkies, geese, 



676 SOUTH AMERICA. 

and ducks, are abundant, and reasonable in price ; the latter 
are of the Muscovy breed, enormously large, some weighing 
ten or fourteen pounds. Here is a singular breed of cocks : 
they resemble the common English in plumage and shape, but 
they crow very loud, and continue their last note for a minute 
or two ; when their voice is good, they are much esteemed, 
and are sent for as curiosities from all parts of Brazil. The 
cattle are in general good, considering that so little attention 
is paid to feeding them ; when their pastures are full of grass, 
they are tolerably fat, but when otherwise they become lean. 
A drove may be bought at twenty-four or thirty shillings a 
head ; beef at about a penny or three halfpence per pound. 
The curriers have a singular method of blackening cow-hides 
and calf-skins : when they have prepared them for that opera- 
tion, they search for some mud-hole at the bottom of a ferini- 
ginous stratum, a ditch for instance ; with the mud they cover 
that side of the skin required to be stained; and they prefer 
this material to the solution of copperas, probably with reason, 
as the sulphate of iron, formed by the deconiposed pyrites, 
acts more mildly in this state tlian when applied in the com- 
mon way. 

Population. — The population of this large portion of South 
America has not been accurately detailed. According to 
Staunton, the whites in the Brazils were computed at 200,000, 
and the negroes at 600,000. Pinkerton supposes that the 
Portuguese and their descendants cannot amount to half a 
million, and the natives three or four millions. But, from the 
observations of Mr. Mawe, it would seem that the Portuguese 
are more numerous, and the natives considerably less, than 
this statement would make them. 

Manners. — The manners of the European settlers will be 
noticed in describing the towns which they inhabit. The in- 
digenes are said to be irreclaimable savages, under the middle 
size, muscular, but active ; of a light brown complexion, 
straight black hair, and long dark eyes. They chiefly subsist 
apart, on the coast between Janeiro and San Salvador. Their 
language has not been investigated by the incurious Portu. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 67Y 

<*uese, who seem destined by nature to covei* the faults of the 
Spanish colonists, and to evince that even European nations 
may be found destitute of knowledge and intelligence. 

Cities and Tozons. — The city of Rio Janeiro^ or St Sebas- 
tian., is charmingly situated on a projecting quadrangular pro- 
montory of an irregular form, three of whose sides are opposed 
to the harbour, and the fourth sheltered from the prevailing 
westerly blasts by a skreen of high hills well covered with 
wood. The side of the town, which is next to that part of 
the harbour where the shipping usually lie a1 anchor, is nearly 
a mile and half in length, and the depth inwards about three- 
fourths of a mile. The northern angle of the promontory is a 
bold broken eminence, on one point of which there is a regular 
fortification, and on the other a convent of Benedictine monks, 
which, being also surrounded with lines of defence, is actually 
as well as metaphorically a church militant. These heights 
completely command the town and the anchorage; and they 
appear to command also, at least they are upon a level with, 
the strono-est work in the harbour, on which the defence of the 
place is thought principally to depend. This is the Ilha dos 
Cobras, or Snake island, a rock about 80 feet higli at the 
point on which the citadel stands, and slanting to eight at the 
opposite end : its length is 300 yards ; and it is detached by a 
narrow but very deep channel from the eminence on which the 
Benedictine convent is situated. Round every side of this 
strongly fortified island, and close to its shores, ships of the 
greatest draught of water may lie in perfect security. Here 
also are a commodious dock-yard, an arsenal of naval stores, a 
sheer hulk, and a wharf for heaving down and careening ship- 
ping. The largest fleets, however, may anchor in this capa- 
cious harbour, entirely out of the reach of any of the guns 
that are mounted on the forts. 

On landing from the harbour, the first object in the town 
that catches the attention is a handsome square, surrounded 
on three of its sides with buildings, and the fourth open to the 
water. Along this side is erected a noble stone quay, with 
flights of steps at each extremity and in the centre, the last of 
which is the common landing-place, When this line of ma- 



678 SOUTH AMERICA. 

sonry shall be extended the whole length of the town, which is 
intended to be done, it will serve not merely as an ornament 
and convenience, but as a considerable defence against the at- 
tempt of an enemy to land. Near the central flight of stairs 
is a quadrangular obelisk, throwing, from each of its four 
fronts, a constant sti-eam of pure limpid water, for the use of 
the lower part of tiie town and of the shipping in the harbour. 
The upper side of the square, facing the harbour, is entirely 
occupied by the palace of the viceroy, a long plain building, 
neither remarkable for elegance of design nor peculiarity of 
construction. 

The palace, the obelisk, and the pier^ are all built with 
hewn blocks of granite ; and the surface of the square is a solid 
floor of the same material, sprinkled over with quartzose sand. 
The granite being of that kind which contains a large propor- 
tion of glistening mica, is highly injurious to the eye, which is 
scarcely able to bear the dazzling rays of the sun playing 
throughout the whole day on one side or other of this open 
area — glaring emblem of the brilliant exploits of the Portu- 
ffucse nation in earlier times ! 

o 

Many of the houses in St. Sebastian are far from being con- 
temptible : tkiey are mostly two stories high, covered with tiles, 
and have wooden balconies extending in front of the upper 
stories ; but the best of them wear that dyll and gloomy ap- 
pearance, which all buildings must necessarily have whose lat- 
ticed windows supply the want of glass. The streets are in 
general tolerably straight, some of considerable width, though 
mostly narrow. The principal ones are paved on both sides 
•with broad flag stones of granite. The refinement of a trot- 
toir, so rarely met with out of England, was not expected to 
be found in a foreign settlement of Portugal. The shops are 
large and commodious, generally well stocked with the manu- 
factures of Europe, chiefly those of Great Britain, which, after 
being exhibited in the windows of the capital and the principal 
cities and towns of the empire till their fashion is out of date, 
are shi})ped ofl' to the trading nations on the continent, and 
from thence to tlieir foreign settlements. In the catalogue of 
wares exhibited in the 'shops of Ilio dc Janeiro, English quack 



SOUTH AMERICA. 679 

medicines and caricature prints are not the least esteemed nor 
the least abundant. 

This place is said to be unhealthy ; and instances of longe- 
vity are very rare. The unhealthiness may arise, however, 
more from local and tempt)rary circumstances, than from the 
necessary intluence of the climate. Water is suffered to stag- 
nate in marshes near the town, tliough they might easily be 
drained, or filled with earth. Strangers, particularly, feel 
their tormenting consequences in the infinite swarms of mus- 
quitoes, or large gnats, which attack them for some time after 
their arrival. This is not ttic only annoyance to strangers, in 
the night, at Rio ; for there, as in Lisbon, according to the 
observation of lord Kainis, the wheels of carts are purposely 
constructed to n)ake a most harsli and croaking noise, to pre- 
vent the devil from harming the cattle that are yoked to them. 
The fertile powers of the imagination could scarcely have de- 
vised a more effectual method of producing a horrid din. 

No real cr fancied danger, however, curbs the propensity ol" 
all classes of society here towards gaiety and pleasure. There 
are three convents for men, and two for women, in this place; 
])ut little is said to be practi.sed, in any of them, of the auste- 
rity and self-denial supposed to be intended by their original 
institution. Though the conquest of the country originally 
was undertaken with the professed intention of converting the 
natives to Christianity, and ample endowments have been 
made for maintaining friars to preach the gospel to those infi- 
dels, yet not one of the former was now engaged in such a 
troublesome, unsafe, and, perhaps, hopeless enterprise. In- 
deed, a few Italian missionaries residing here, took pains to 
send amongst the Indians such of that tribe who frequent Rio, 
aft they were enabled to gain over to their faith, by presents as 
well as by persuasion, in order, by that means, to endeavour 
at converting the Indians dispersed throughout the country. 
Neither the friars nor the nuns of this place seem at all dis- 
posed to run into the gloomy excesses of devotion ; and no- 
thing can be more sprightly than the conversation of the latter 
-with strangers at the convent grates. The men are, certainly, 
not corrupted by the writings of free-thirtkers. No such exist 



eSO SOUTH AMERICA. 

in the language of the country ; and few Portuguese are ac- 
quainted with any other. There are but two booksellers in 
Rio, whose shops contain only books of medicine and divinity. 
But the religious system, which held its empire there with 
such happy effects so long, bears now some resemblance to a 
machine, of which the spring, by its own internal working, is 
slackened at length, and wearing out. No inquisition, or tri- 
bunal of the holy office, as it is called, is established in the 
Brazils. The ceremonies of religion are, however, regularly 
kept up, and even multiplied. In the day time, bells and 
sometimes sky-rockets announce, at every hour, some solem- 
nity performing in the churches; and after sunset the streets 
are crowded with processions. At every corner is stuck up, 
in a glass case, the image of the Virgin Mary, to which ho- 
mage is regularly paid by those who pass it. 

'In one part of the harbour of Rio,' says Staunton, 'not 
far from the town, at a place called Val Longo, are the ware- 
houses for the reception, and preparation for sale, of the slaves 
imported chieflv from Angola and Benguela on the coast of 
Africa. This spot was appropriated to the purpose of cleans- 
ing, anointing, fattening, rendering sleek and saleable, and 
concealing the defects of, this class of beings, who seemed little 
sensible of the humiliation of their condition. About 5000 
were usually sold, every year, at Rio, out of 20,000 purchased 
for the whole of the Brazils. The average price was about 
twenty-eight pounds sterling each, before they were shipped 
from Africa. A duty of 10,000 reis a head is paid to the queen 
of Portuo-ars agent there. The whole amounted to about 
60,000/. a year, which goes into her privy purse, and is not 
considered as part of the public revenue. In the whole of the 
Brazils there were supposed to be, at least, 600,000 slaves, 
born in Africa, or descended from those who were. The 
whites were computed to amount to about 200,000. The 
proportion of blacks to whites in the town of Rio was sup- 
posed to be at least 40,000 of the former, including such as 
had been emancipated, to about 3000 of the latter.' 

St. Salvador is the capital of the capitania of Bahia, and is 
also called Cidade de Bahia ; it was originally the seat of the 



SOUTH AME^vICA. 68l 

supreme government of Brazil. It consists of two parts, one 
hmh on low ground near the shore, where the commerce is 
carried on, and the other on a high hill, wliich being consider- 
ed the most healthy, is the residence of all the people of con- 
sequence. Its population is said to be nearly equal to that of 
Rio de Janeiro, and is stated at not less than 70,000 souls. 
The houses are built with latticed windows and balconies, si- 
milar to those in Rio de Janeiro The churches are the pub- 
lic buildings most worthy of notice : thev are said to be richly 
ornamented within. The government of the city is vested in 
a viceroy, or governor, who is nominated by the court for 
three years. Here all law proceedings, civil and criminal, 
come before the respective magistrates, whose sentence is in 
general final, though appeals in certain cases may be made to 
the court at Rio de Janeiro. 

The town is tolerably defended, also the bay, as well as cir- 
cumstances will permit. On the shore is a royal arsenal, and 
numerous houses for stores, &c. The custom-house and 
wharfs are conveniently situated. Ships of war have been 
biiilt here, also many large and fine vessels for the merchant 
service. For these purposes, a large supply of fine timber was 
readily obtamed from the interior by the number of fine rivers 
which flow into the bay. The wood holds iron better, and is 
superior to our oak. 

The manners and customs of the people difl^er little from 
those of the inhabitants of the capital ; but it is said that in 
the best societies here, more gaiety and refinement prevail, and 
the higher classes are more sociable, than in Rio de Janeiro. 
A taste for music is general : there are few houses without the 
guitar, and all the more respectable families have piano-fortes. 
The ladies dress in the English style, and ornament theniselves 
with gold chains : they wear very few diamonds ; their fa- 
vourite gem is the chrysolite. For dishabille at home they 
wear a kind of loose dress; over which they throw a veil on 
the entrance of strangers. They are considered as far less in- 
dustrious than the females of the southern districts. The do- 
mestic dress of the men consists of a jacket and loose trowsers. 
made of hght printed cotton. Religious processions take place 

4 R 



683 SOUTH AMERICA. 

here, as in Rio de Janeiro, on great festivals and rejoicing 
days ; and these festive occasions are distinguished by various 
amusements which continue from morning to- night. At these 
times the Brazilians have a custom of covering the walls and 
balconies of their houses with beautiful silks made and orna- 
mented for the purpose. One of the most memorable seasons 
of rejoicing, of late years, was when the prince touched at this 
city on his voyage to Rio de Janeiro, and remained several 
days. The inhabitants testified their loyalty and attachment 
to him by every public demonstration of joy, and by a display 
of all the grandeur and magnificence which they had means to 
furnish. As a more solid proof of their attachment and re- 
gard, they unanimously voted to subscribe a sum equal to halt 
a million sterling to build a palace for the royal family, if the 
prince would condescend to reside among them. 

The climate is always warm, but is refreshed by the sea- 
breeze, and is in some degree tempered by the long absence of 
the sun, the nights being almost of uniform length throughout 
the year. Though hotter than Rio de Janeiro, Bahia is con- 
sidered much more healthful, having a more airy situation, 
and being better supplied with water. The practice of bath- 
ing is very general, and most of the houses have conveniences 
for this purpose. 

Pernamhuco, the capital of the capitania of that name 
though situated nearly in the latilude of eight degrees, is consi- 
dered very healthy. The town is built on a rising gi'ound, 
much exposed, and constantly refreshed by the sea-breeze. It 
has many excellent edifices, and is supposed to contain more 
opulent merchants, in proportion to the population, than any 
other place in Brazil. It produces vanilla, cocoa, and a consi- 
derable quantity of sugar ; but the chief article of its trade is 
cotton, which for many years had the reputation of being su- 
perior to any other, but of late it has much deteriorated, from 
neglect, either in the growth, or in the gathering the pods and 
cleaning it from the seeds, or probably from general inattention 
to the whole management of it. 

Para is also the chief town of a capitania, and is situated 
©n the river TcJcantins, the navigation of which is difficult. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 683 

and is seldom attempted, except by small craft: the Confiance 
sloop of war with great care sailed up it, and anchored near 
the town, several days previous to the expedition against (Ca- 
yenne. The town may contain 10,000 inhabitants, who are in 
general very poor, probably from want of commerce. 

The port of Rio Grande is situated about 32 deg. soutii ; it 
is dangerous to enter, first from its being shoal water, and 
next, from a violent sea always running, and from the shifting 
of the sands. Notwithstanding these inconveniencies, there is 
a great trade canned on from this place to all the ports of Bra- 
zil, in brigs and small vessels that do not draw above ten feet 
water. After passing the bar, which is long, they enter into 
an inland sea, or lagoon, of deep water, and navigate to the 
north and west to its head, M-here the principal river runs into 
ii. To the southward is the lagoon Meni, and the neutral 
ground, a little to the southward of whicli is the Spanish for- 
tress of Santa Teresa, lately put in repair. The vicinity of 
Rio Grande is extremely populous. The principal occupations 
of the inhabitants are, the breeding of cattle, for which the 
• immense tract of pasture land is so well calculated ; the drying 
and preparing of hides ; and the making of cliarque, or what 
is called, in the river Plata, jug-beef The quantity of hides 
exported from hence is almost incredible : they furnish many 
vessels with entire cargoes, w)iich are carried to the northern 
ports, and from thence embarked for Europe. The annual 
average may be estimated at not less than 300,000. 

Santos is a place of considerable trade, being the store-house 
of the great captaincy of St. Paul's, and the resort of many 
vessels trading to the Rio de la Plata. It is tolerably well 
built, and its population, .consisting chiefly of merchants, shop- 
keepers, and artificers, amounts to 6' or 7000 souls. The 
situation is by no means healthy, as the country around it is 
low, woody, and frequently deluged with rain, by reason of 
the high mountains in its vicinity, which impede the passage 
of the clouds. 

St. PauVs is situated on a pleasing eminence of about two 
miles in extent, surrounded tin three sides by low meadow 
land, and washed at the base by rivulets, which almost insu- 



684 SOUTH AMERICA. 

late it in rainy weather ; it is connected with the high land by 
a narrow ridge. The rivulets flow into a pretty large stream 
called the Tieti, which runs within a mile of the town, in a 
south-west direction. Over them there are several bridges, 
some of stone and others of wood, built by the late governor. 
The streets of St. Paul's owing to its elevation (about 50 feet 
above the plain), and the water which almost surrounds it, are 
in general remarkably clean. The popul "tion amounts to full 
15,000 souls ; perhaps nearly 20,000 : the clergy, including 
all ranks of religious orders, may be reckoned at 500. Here 
are few manufactures of any consequence : a little coarse cot- 
ton is spun by the hand, and woven into cloth, which serves 
for a variety of wearing apparel, sheets, &c. 

Santa Cruz is situated on the island St. Catherine, which is 
separated from the continent, in south lat. 27 and 29 deg., by 
a narrow strait, in some places scarcely half a league wide. 
The produce of the island consists in rice, maize, mandioca, 
coffee of excellent quality, oranges, perhaps the finest in the 
world, and a variety of other fruits. 

There are ^e\v towns of any consequence in the Inierlor. 
Those that have been formed owe their settlement to the 
mines, and amongst which Tejuco is the most considerable. 

Tejuco being situated in a sterile district, which produces 
nothing for the maintenan(je of its inhabitants, in number 
about 6000, depends, for a supply of provisions, on farms si- 
tuated several leagues distant. At no place are there seen a 
greater proportion of indigent people, particularly of females. 
Yet, notwithstanding the idleness of the inhabitants, Tejuco 
may be called flourishing, on account of the circulation of pro- 
perty created by the diamond works. The annual sum paid 
by government for the hire of negroes, salaries of oflicers, and 
various necessaries, such as nitre and iron, does not amount to 
less than 35,000/. ; and this, added to the demands of the in- 
habitants of the town and its vicinity, occasions a considerable 
trade. The shops are stocked with Enghsh cottons, baizes, 
and cloths, and other manufactured goods ; also hams, cheese, 
butter, porter, and other articles of consumption. Mules from 
from Bahia and Rio de Janeiro come loaded with th^m, 



SOUTH AMERICA. 685 

Trade and Commerce. — Since the establishment of the treaty 
of commerce between the British government and that of Bra- 
zil, the contraband trade has been almost done away ; for the 
duties are now much reduced, and the accommodation which 
the judge and subordinate officers of the custom-house are 
disposed to allow is such, as to render that nefarious practice 
unnecessary. 

Iron and steel are articles for which there is a general and 
constant demand. The smiths prefer Swedish iron, as they 
have been always accustomed to it, and do not know how to 
heat and work the English. The next article to be mentioned 
is salt, in which the Bi*azilians are by no means nice. It is 
made and loaded at one or two places on the coast; but that 
which is most esteemed comes from the Cape de Verd islands : 
that brought from Liverpool is generally used in the sea-ports. 
Common woollens, baizes, and some stout fine cloths, particu- 
larly blue and black, are generally worn ; also kerseymeres. 
Cotton goods of almost every description, especially if low 
priced, meet with ready sale. Hats of all sorts (particularly 
dress-hats), and boots and shoes of English manufacture, have 
of late been sold in great quantities : the leather is much pre- 
ferable to that made in Brazil. Common and finer earthen- 
ware, and glass; some sorts of fine and coarse hardware; 
some plated goods, as candles now begin to be used instead of 
lamps. Bottled porter, Cheshire cheese, butter, cheap furni- 
ture, tin-plate, brass, lead in various shapes, shot of all sizes, 
gunpowder, drugs, some philosophical instruments, books, 
low-priced paper, watches, telescopes, salt provisions, as hams, 
tongues, and barrelled pork, low-priced sadlery, and, most of 
all, India and other goods fit for the African coast. Marble 
mortars, mirrors, and many fancy articles of less note. Silk 
and cotton hosiery, fashionable dresses for ladies, particularly 
fine stockings and shoes. 

It is to be observed, that the mother country still continues 
to send oil, wine, brandy, linens, cottons, some silk, and a 
variety of articles of inferior consequenv^e. India goods, con- 
sisting chiefly of cottons, are sent from the Malabar coast, and 
China goods are in great plenty. From North America are 



686 SOUTH AMERICA. 

"' imported flour, salt provisions, turpentine, tar, staves, house- 
hold furniture, &c. Naval stores, clothing for sailors, arms, 
&c. may be said to be generally in demand. 

The staple articles of trade from lirazil and the river Plate 
which are most in demand in England, when its markets are 
not overstocked, are cotton, coffee, hides, tallow of good qua- 
lity, horns, hair, fur-skins, and feathers. Sugar cannot be 
enumerated among them, as existing colonial regulations pre- 
vent it from being generally used : but Brazil is well calculated 
for growing it, having every convenience of situation, and all 
the materials requisite for machinery. To the above may be 
added some wood; that beautiful species called jacafanda, 
here denominated rose-wood, is subject to so high a duty in 
this country, that it cannot be generally introduced for cabinet 
use, that from the East Indies excepted. Indigo is in general 
inferior. Rice of excellent quality is cultivated to great ex- 
tent. Tobacco, it is to be hoped, will be better cured, to suit 
the Enghsh market ; for no where can a soil and climate be 
fovmd more favourable to the production of that plant than in 
Brazil. 

Since the emigration of the court from Lisbon, Rio de Ja- 
neiro may be truly called the mart of South America, and is 
likely to become a general depot of goods from the four quar- 
ters of the globe : vet its commerce to Africa, to India, and 
the islands in the Indian sea belonging to the crown of Portu- 
gal, as well as its intercourse with China, has scarcely been 
entered into. So many disappointments, caused by the poli- 
tical events in the mother country, and so unexpected an in- 
flux of goods from England, occasioned such a stagnation in 
commercial dealings, that the opulent merchants were deter- 
mined not to speculate. When trade shall have resumed its 
regular channel, Rio de Janeiro will, no doubt, be a grand 
and general market for the prorluce of all the ancient Portu- 
guese possessions : it will be a kind of half-way house between 
Europe and India, and every description of Asiatic produce 
will be found- in lis warehouses. Brazil, freed from colonial 
restrictions, will soon become doubly populous ; its gold, in- 
stead of being transported to foreign countries as heretofore, 



SOUTH AMERICA. 687 

will circulate among the inhabitants ; and, under a wise legis- 
lature, it is reasonable to hope, that in twenty years this great 
country will rise in prosperity more than any other in the 
same space of time. ^ 

Governrnent. — The government of this important country is 
at present directed by the prince regent of Portugal, who has 
not yet evinced any disposition to return amidst the stormy 
politics of Europe. The^ country is divided into captaincies, 
over each of which a governor presides, who has a military 
force to support his measures. Several useful regulations and 
important improvements have been made in the government, 
since the emigration of the Portuguese court. 

Revenue. — A fifth upon all gold obtained m the mines, and 
ten per cent, upon the products of the land, form the principal 
branches of the revenue. The duties upon imports and ex- 
ports are also considerable. 

Army. — The military establishment of Brazil is consideralile 
compared with the population. Every Portuguese and Cre- 
ole, besides a great number of free blacks, are enrolled in the 
militia, which, aided by the nature of the country, might offer 
a formidable opposition to an invading enemy. 

• History. — The discovery of the Brazils was merely acci- 
dental. It was first settled by convicts ; but afterwards ad- 
venturers of diffei"ent descriptions joined the colony, which 
was increased by the importation of slaves from Africa. In a 
short time, the whole sea coast, upwards of 2000 miics, was in 
some measure settled. But when Portugal fell into the power 
of Spain, the Dutch, who had revolted from the tyranny of 
that power, turned their arms upon Brazil : and they would 
have overrun the whole, if Don Michael de Texiera, the 
archbishop, had not taken arms, and at the head of his monks 
and a few scattered forces, put a stop to the torrent of the 
Dutch conquest. He made a gallant stand until succours 
arrived ; and then resigned the commission with which the 
public necessity and his own virtue had armed him, into the 
hands of a person appointed by authority. By this stand he 
saved seven of the captainships, or provinces, out of fourteen, 
ijito which Brazil is divided ; the rest fell into the hands of 



688 SOUTH AMERICA. 

the Dutch, who conquered and kept them with a bravery and 
conduct, which would deserve more applause if it had been 
governed by humanity. 

The famous captain, prince Maurice of Nassau, was the 
person to whom the Dutch owed this conquest, the estabhsh- 
ment of their colony there, and that advantageous peace which 
secured them in it. But as it is the genius of mercantile peo- 
ple to desire a sudden profit in all their designs ; and as this 
colony was not under the immediate inspection of the States, 
but subject to the company called the West India company, 
the latter acted in such a manner as compelled the prince to 
resign. The impolitic economy and severity of the company 
at length encouraged the Portuguese, vvho reconquered the 
Brazils; but not till after a struofwle in which the States dis- 
played great vigour, though too late. 

Since this struggle for the sovereignty of Brazil, nothing 
remarkable occurred in its history, except a feeble attempt of 
the Creoles to throw off the Portuguese yoke, until the arrival 
of the court from Portugal in 1807. The adoption of this 
measure, in any case of extreme necessity, had frequently 
been suggested. But at the period of the French invasion, 
the prince regent evinced the most extreme reluctance to quit 
the shores of that country he had so long governed ; though 
lord Strangford was indefatigable in his attempts to confirm 
the resolution of the court, and was perpetually contrasting the 
independence and glory of the new empire in South America, 
with tile abject vassalage and contemptible insignificance which 
alone could be expected were the prince to remain in Europe. 
At last, Bonaparte"'s declaration, that the house of Braganza 
had ceased to reign, removed every objection ; and according- 
ly, on the morning of the 29th of November, the Portuguese 
fleet sailed out of the Tagus, with the whole of the royal fa- 
mily of Braganza, and a considerable number of faithful 
counsellors, and respectable and opulent adherents. The 
fleet consisted of eight sail of the line and four large frigates, 
and several other vessels of war, besides a number of Brazil 
ships, and amounted in all to 36 sail, containing about 18,000 
Portuguese subjects. As they passed through the British 



SOUTH AMERICA. 689 

squadron, a reciprocal salute was fired, and the spectacle was, 
in several respects, grand and interesting. 

On the arrival of the court at Rio de Janeiro, several public 
measures were suggested by the conde de Linhares, and 
adopted by the prince regent, that have eminently tended to 
accelerate the progress of improvement in this grand division 
of South America, which seems destined to form one of the 
most wealthy, populous, and powerful empires on earth. 

An unsuccessful attempt was lately made at Pernambuco to 
revolutionize the Brazils : but although it failed, the example 
of the patriots in the neighbouring countries must tend to keep 
alive the desire for independence, which the imbecile and stu- 
pid court at Rio de Janeiro is little calculated either to sooth 
or to repi'ess. 



FRENCH DOMINIONS. 

T^HE French settlements in Guiana were first formed about 
the year 1635, and extend from the mouth of a small 
river called Araano on the west, to another called Aracara on 
the east ; though recently the limit was attempted to be ex- 
tended, at the expence of the Portuguese, to the estuary of 
the Maranon. On the south the line seems arbitrary ; but 
the whole extent does not exceed 350 British miles in length, 
by 240 in breadth. The chief town is on a small isle called 
Cayano, whence the whole territory is commonly styled Ca- 
yenne. The soil and climate in general seem unexceptiona- 
ble; but the situation of the town being ill chosen, in a 
swampy isle, its disadvantages have been laxly ascribed to the 
whole possession. The inland parts remain obstructed by 
thick forests and underwood , and during the rains many 

4 S 



690 SOUTH AMERICA. 

parts are inundated. The dry season is from June till Octo- 
ber, and the heaviest rains in our winter months. 

Different French companies were formed, but successively 
failed in their attempts to improve this colony. The English 
took it in 1667, and it was afterwards taken by the Dutch in 
1676, but at peace restored to the French. In 1688, the co- 
lonists undertook a plundering expedition, which failing, gave 
a severe shock to the prosperity of the colony, which has ever 
suice languished at Cayenne. Soon after the peace of 1763, 
the French court made vigorous efforts to give importance to 
this settlement. Twelve thousand men, engaged in France as 
laboui'ers, were landed ; but as no habitation or proper provi- 
sion had been made for them, ten thousand of these wretched 
beings in consequence perished, and the survivors demanding 
to return to Europe, were unwillingly brought back. About 
a million sterling was uselesslv expended on this enterprise. 
The fugitive planters, who had fled from St. Domingo at the 
revolution, have, however, done som.e good to the colony. 
Cayenne was recently occupied by a Portuguese garrison, but 
restored to France in 1814. 

The first production of Cayenne was arnotto, a red dye. 
Cotton, indigo, and sugar, were next introduced; and, in 
1721, coffee was brought from Surinam. Twelve years after, 
they planted cocoa. In 1763, the population and production 
stood thus : 500 whites, who employed 1500 negroes and 
1200 native Indians, and produced about 260,000 lbs. of ar- 
notta, 80,000 lbs. of sugar, 18,000 lbs. of cotton, 27,000 lbs. 
of coffee, 92,000 lbs. of cocoa, and this is still nearly the 
situation of the colony. The cultivation of indigo, which at 
one time was carried on successfully, has greatly fallen off. 
Cayenne pepper is the most noted product of this coinitry ; 
and, the inhabitants using it to excess, a considerable quantity 
is always imported from Peru. The town contains about 
1200 white inhabitants, exclusive of the garrison. During 
the French revolution, several eminent men were banished to 
this inhospitable colony. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 691 



ENGLISH DOMINIONS. 

npHESE valuable possessions in Guiana, which Great Bri- 
tain recently obtained, were originally settled by the 
Dutch. English Guiana is situated to the north-west of the 
French settlement. The length, south-east to north-west, is 
about 350 British miles along the shores of the Atlantic ; but 
the breadth only 160. It is divided into three different go- 
vernments, Sux'inam, Berbice, and Essequebo, which it may 
be proper to notice separately, after taking a general view of 
the whole. 

Climate. — Some have reported the climate of Guiana to be 
mild and wholesome, in consequence of receiving the trade 
wind fresh from the ocean. All the disorders known in hot 
countries are, however, very prevalent. 

Animals. — The laubba, about the size of a large cat, is pe- 
culiar to this part of America. Snakes are numerous. The 
aboma, Avhen full grown, is 30 feet in length, and three feet in 
circumference at the middle of the body. The red and yellow 
mackaw are also peculiar to Guiana. The galvanic eel is 
often found in the river Essequebo. This country likewise 
abounds with those dangerous animals and tormenting insects 
that usually inhabit the hot regions of South America. 

Botany. — In consequence of the swampy soil and moist at- 
mosphere of this region, vegetation presents a vigour and wild 
exuberance perhaps without parallel. Here are two peculiar 
species of palm, the annotta, the quassia, several medicinal 
plants, and fatal poisons. The silk-cotton-tree of Guiana ge- 
nerally grov/s to the height of 100 feet. Its trunk is about 
twelve feet in circumference. The trunk is often made use of 
for canoes, which are formed by hollowing them with fire. 

Demerary. — This province derives its name from the river 
60 called. Its extent of sea coast is nearly 100 miles, running 



692 SOUTH AMERICA. 

west and by north, and west : it is bounded on the east by 
Berbice, and to the westward by Essequebo. The river, at 
its entrance, is nearly a mile and a half broad, and has a bar 
four miles without of mud, over which no vessel drawing more 
than nine feet, can pass until half flood : but at high water 
and spring tides, there are eighteen feet on this bar. Within 
the entrance is a battery called Fort William Frederic, mount- 
ing eighteen heavy pieces of cannon. Haifa mile east from 
it is a block-house, which has a commanding view of the sea, 
and a communication by signal with Berbice, which gives im- 
mediate notice of any vessel being off the coast. 

The river Demerary is navigable for large vessels about 100 
miles above its mouth. It is settled for nearly another 100 
miles further inland. At that distance are cataracts, or rapids, 
which obstruct navigation ; but which, on account of the ro- 
mantic mountainous scenery around, are occasionally visited 
by parties of pleasure. 

This settlement was formed by the Dutch in 166.3 ; but 
four years afterwards they were expelled by the English, 
whose descendants form part of the colony. It was resumed 
by the Dutch in 1676. Demerary was first considered a de- 
pendency of Essecjuebo ; but in 1774, having extended itself 
to a surprising degree, and offering a superior harbour to the 
other, it was determined to make that the residence of the go- 
vernor, and capital of the two colonies : for that purpose the 
town of Stabroek was commenced about a mile from the fort, 
and on the same side the river ; whilst a commandeur, or de- 
puty governor, was now appointed for the Essequebo. Seven 
years after this change, an English privateer took possession of 
the two colonies, in the name of his Britannic majesty ; such 
was the weak state in which Holland left her colonies. The 
Britisli coiTimanders at Barbadoes were on the eve of sending 
troops to the garrison, in order to fortify them, when informa- 
tion was received that the English, in their turn, had been 
obliged to capitulate to a French corvette. In 1783, at the 
general peace, the colonies were ceded tq the Dutch. During 
the kte war, these, with the other possessions of the Dutch in 
the West Indies, were entirely neglected. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 693 

In 1795, the burghers joined with the rangers and a body 
of Indians in subduing the bush negroes, who had become 
very troublesome. In the following year, the colony surren- 
dered to an expedition dispatched by Sir Ralph Abercromby, 
in conformity to a secret application from several opulent 
planters. The British capital now invested in the colonies 
made them of serious importance, and a grand object with the 
mercantile and monied interest of Great Britain to retain ; 
the mere claims on them being estimated, at the time of the 
peace of Amiens, at ten millions sterling. Yet, notwithstand- 
ing these possessions were given up, and on the 3d of Decem- 
ber were taken possession of by the Batavian troops, the go- 
vernor, who evinced the most ostentatious dislike to the 
British, inflicted many serious evils upon the colony; which, 
however, were but of short continuance, as, on the renewal of 
the war, the British flag once more waved over these colonies, 
which were ceded in perpetuity to England, at the peace of 
Paris, in 1814. 

The origin of Stabroek has been already explained. It is 
the principal seat of exchange for the produce of all the coun- 
tries adjacent to the Demerary and Essequebo, and is situated 
on the east side of the river Demerary. Its site is low and 
level. It has an oblong form, being about one-fourth of a 
mile broad, and one mile long. The principal streets are 
quite straight, with carriage roads. A navigable canal on 
each side of the town, which fills and empties with the tide, 
affords a great convenience to those houses which are not si- 
tuated near the water side. The population in Stabroek con- 
sists of about 1500 whites, 2000 free people of colour, and 
5000 negroes. 

Dutchmen, and other foreigners, differ in some points of 
their living and household economy from the English. Their 
general hour of rising is with the sun, about a (juarter before 
six, when they make their appearance in a morning gown and 
slippers, in the portico or piazza of the house, where a female 
negro is in waiting with the coffee equipage. After a Dutch 
planter has taken a dish or two of strong coffee, with litde or 
no sugar in it, the yonge, or boy, brings him his jMpe, tobacco. 



694 SOUTH AMERICA. 

and flask of gin : with these he enjoys himself till between 
nine and ten oVlock, when he is visited by the baas, or over- 
seer of the estate, who reports progress, and receives orders. 
He then dresses himself, and calls for a glass of water and a 
napkin to wash his hands and face with. 

About eleven o'clock, the Dutchman sits dow^n to a table 
covered with various kinds of animal food, vegetable soups, 
and fruit. Pepper-pot, a soup flavoured with the juice of the 
bitter cassada, and made pungent with red and green pepper, 
is a constant concomitant. Madeira wine and water, and malt 
liquor, are substituted for tea. After this, he orders his horse 
and pays a visit to some of his neighbours, or rides round the 
estate to see the negroes at work ; in either of which cases a 
negro boy follows liim on foot, with a pouch of segars and a 
stick of fire. It is his constant practice, whether on horseback, 
walking, or riding in a carriage, to smoke, and be supplied 
through the medium of a servant. He dines about three or 
four o'clock, and, after taking a portion of claret, retires for 
his afternoon's nap, where he sleeps away the fatigues of the 
day. He grows tired of the hammock towards evening, when 
he comes down and takes his coff^ee, after which, a walk round 
the buildings, to enquire into the state of the negroes and their 
work, concludes the day. The general hour for retiring to 
rest in the country, is about eight or nine o'clock ; the inter- 
mediate time between this and sunset is occupied by smoking 
and drinking gin. 

The population presents a strange mixture of Europeans. 
Dutch, Germans, Prussians, Russians, Swedes, Danes, Spa- 
niards, French, and Americans, may be incorporated as one- 
third of the white population, and Great Britain claims the 
other two. All national enmity seems to be forgotten, while 
the pursuits of the motley group are directed unanimously to 
climbing the ladder of fortime. When an European arrives, 
he finds it necessary to provide himself with a housekeeper, or 
mistress. The choice he has an opportunity of making is va- 
rious ; a black, a tawney, a mulatto, or a mestee ; one of which 
can be purchased for 100/. or 150/. sterling, fully competent 
to fulfil all the duties of her station: sonie of them ar« so 



SOUTH AMERICA. 6d5 

much educated as to be able to read and write. They are 
tasty and extravagant in their dress; but when once an at- 
tachment takes place, it is inviolable. They embrace all the 
duties of a wife, except presiding at table ; so far decorum is 
maintained, and a distinction made. They employ themselves 
in needle- work, and other domestic affairs. Their usefulness 
in preserving the arts and diffusing the habits of cleanliness is 
felt and allowed by all, tlicre being very few civilized Eu- 
ropean women. ' 

The produce cleared from the port of Demerary, since the 
last establishment of the British custom-house, is as follows, 
viz. — From the 5th of January, 1806, to the 5th of January, 
180T, in 221 vessels, 19,337 hogsheads, 474 tierces, and 801 
barrels of sugar ; 4722 puncheons and 17 hogsheads of rum ; 
23,604 bales raid 2 bags of cotton; 12,390,102 pounds of 
coffee; and 1694 casks of molasses. 

Essequebo. — Nine miles west of the Demerary is the river 
Essequebo, which at its mouth, commencing from Borasierri, 
and extending to Kapoeja creek, is 21 miles broad ; the for- 
mer serves as a boundary to the two colonies. The navigation 
here is vei*y dangerous and difficult, even for small craft, which 
arises from banks of sand running in different directions across 
the entrance. Many estates and settlements are already made 
on its banks, and it is also the residence of several timber-cut- 
ters and brick -makers, the soil for which is particularly good. 

The settlements of Essequebo and Demerary, from their 
conjunction witli each other, are inider the directions of one 
governor, though two distinct colonies : but each has its court 
of justice and subordinate officers. 

Berhlce. — Berbice river is at the mouth a mile and a half 
broad, and in the centre is an island called Crab island. A 
bar of sand five miles without the river, running from east to 
west, prevents vessels drawing more than fourteen feet from 
entering the river; this navigation is more dangerous than 
that of the Demerary, from the obstructions to it being of 
sand. 

Berbice, by the old boundary, is bounded on the east by 
the Devil's creek, and on the west by Abarry creek, which se- 



696 SOUTH AMERICA. 

parates that colony from Demerary. The river Berbice is 
shallow, but broad; nearly an hundred plantations have been 
formed on its banks. The directors of the colony obtain from 
it chiefly sugar. It also supplies cotton, coffee, cocoa, tobacco, 
and a dyeing stuff called rokou. The goods carried thither 
are the same as those traded with in the rest of the West 
Indies. 

Nezv Amsterdam, the name of the town, is built on the 
south side of the Canje river, running in that direction up the 
banks of the Berbice a mile and a half, with the houses facing 
the water. The houses are different from those of Stabroek : 
they are not more than a story and a half high, very long and 
narrow, with galleries on either side, for the purpose of walk- 
ing and smoking in the shade. 

When Surinam capitulated to the British in August, 1799, 
it conceded to Berbice the tract of country between the DeviPs 
creek and the Courintine. This addition of territory was a 
favourable circumstance for Berbice. The sea coast, extend- 
ing nearly 50 miles, and the west bank of the Courintine, 
were iimnediately surveyed and laid out into regular allot- 
ments. British capital, industry, and perseverance, had ac- 
complished, in eight years, what would not have been done by 
any other means in half a century. 

Surinam. — This valuable settlement is bounded on the east 
by the river Marawina, and on the west by the river Courin- 
tine : it is about 150 miles from east to west, and 60 from 
north to south. The liver, from which it derives its name, 
has sand banks at its mouth, over which there is about three 
fathom water at high tide ; but above these banks the water is 
much deeper, and the river navigable for large vessels above 
90 miles up the country. 

This colony was first settled in 1634 by the English and a 
party of French. In 1667, it was taken by the Dutch, when 
1200 of its oldest inhabitants removed to Jamaica. The pros- 
perity of this colony has been much impeded by the inhuman 
wars carried on by the settlers against the Maroon negroes. 
Since it was taken by the English, peace and commerce, have 
flourished. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 697 

The principal town in Surinam, and the capital of the Eng- 
lish Guiana, is Parimaribo, situated on the right side of the 
river Surinam, at about 16 or 18 miles from its mouth. It is 
built on a sand-reef, well arranged, and the streets include 
beautiful alleys of orange and lemon trees. The houses are of 
wood, and have no chimnies ; the kitchens, for coolness sake, 
are detached ; it is a town far advanced in the arts of civilised 
life, above a mile in length, wide in proportion, and swarming 
already with an ever-thickening crowd of many-coloured inha- 
bitants. The population of Parimaribo is estimated at IS or 
20,000 persons. Of these, the larger half, at least 10,000 
persons, are negro and mulatto slaves. The free people of 
colour are supposed to be about 4000. There are from 2 to 
3000 German and Portuguese Jews ; and about 1800 English 
and Dutch Europeans. The number of temporary residents, 
as in all sea ports, varies with the season. 

The products of this settlement, in 1775, amounted to 
822,905/. ; but the present amount is above four times this 
sum. The population, at the same period, amounted to 
100,000. Since the possession of this and the adjoining set- 
tlements was guaranteed by treaty to Great Britain, several 
regulations have been established, highly advantageous to the 
trade of Holland, and favourable to the Dutch colonists. 

English Guiana is rising rapidly into consequence. Several 
millions sterling have recently been employed in forming new 
plantations, and in facilitating the communication between the 
different settlements. Nor is it at all improbable, but that, at 
no very distant period, this fertile country may excel the West 
Indies in riches, population, and political consequence. 
30 4 T 



698 SOUTH AMERICA. 



PARAGUAY. 

'T^HE wide regions so called, and which border on the Ura- 
guay, is celebrated as the seat of" the wonderful labours of 
the Jesuits, who established their power both over the bodies 
and the minds of the inhabitants of this province. In 1767, 
the Jesuits were driven from America by order of the king of 
Spain, and their unfortunate converts degraded to the same 
footing as the other indigenous inhabitants of the country. 



PATAGONIA. 

'PHE aspect of this countryis very singular. There is an 
immense tract of territory impregnated with nitre, about 
600 miles in length and 150 wide, on the south and west of 
the river Parana, and even to the junction of the Paraguay; 
all the springs and rivulets being more or less saline. No 
productive mines have yet been discovered, except some of 
silver, near Mendoza, at the bottom of the Andes. The 
rivers that wash this country all come from the high moun- 
tains of Yacanto, or Sacanto, Champachin, and Achala on the 
west of Cordova, which are little inferior in height to the 
Andes of Chili, and are a kind of branches of those of Peru. 
That part of the Andes which lies west of Mendoza is of a 
vast height, and always covered with snow ; and there are nu- 
merous volcanoes in the southern part of the Andes, as that of 
St. Clement, lat. 46 deg., and others in a continued progress 
to lat. 31 deg. 



SOUTH AMERICA. 699 

The Patagonians are represented to be a large and robust 
race. Both men and women are dextrous riders. They sub- 
sist chiefly by hunting, in which they are assisted by dogs. 
They eat raw flesh, and, like iilost miserable savages, have 
little reo-ard for cleanliness. 



ISLANDS. 

Margaretta. npHIS mountainous island, situated opposite 
the city of Cumana in the Caraccas, is sup- 
posed to be a volcanic production. It is about 30 leagues in 
circumference, and is celebrated as being one of the first dis- 
coveries of Columbus, 

Juan Fej'tiandez. — Juan Fernandez lies to the west of 
South America, about 300 miles from the coast of Chili. 
This romantic isle, diversified with woods and water, with 
craggy hills and fertile spots, is famous for having given rise 
to the celebrated romance of Robinson Crusoe. It appears 
that Alexander Selkirk, a seaman and a native of Scotland, 
was put ashore, and left in this solitary place by his captain, 
where he lived some years, and was discovered by Woodes 
Rogers in 1709. 

Chiloe. — There are two remarkable archipelagos towards 
the southern extremitj^ of this continent: that styled the gulf 
of Chonos, or the archipelago of Guaytecas ; and that called 
the gulf of the Hvoly Trinity, or the archipelago of Toledo. 
The most remarkable isle in the former is that of Chiloe, about 
140 British miles in length by 30 in breadth, but almost di- 
vided in the middle by bays or creeks. The chief harbour is 
Chacao on the north, and at Calbuco there is a corregidor, 
nominated by the president of Chili : there are also two mo- 



^00 SOUTH AMERICA. 

nasteries and a church. The isle of Chiloe is said to be well 
peopled with Spaniards, mulattoes, and converted savages. 

Terra del Fiiego. — This island, although never visited by 
European navigators but in the summer months, is described 
as among the most dreary and desolate spots on the habitable 
earth, and the few inhabitants upon it as the most miserable 
and destitute of the human race. 

FalMand Islands. — There are two islands of this name, each 
about 40 miles square. The soil and climate do not appear to 
be good ; but there is a considerable variety of fowls and fish, 
and the plants seem somewhat to resemble those of Canada. 
In 1764", commodore Byron was sent to take possession of 
these islands, which were undoubtedly first discovered by the 
English ; and a little establishment was made at a place called 
Port Egmont; but being found of little or no value, they 
were in a few years ceded to Spain. 

Fernando de Norhonha. — This small Portuguese island is 
situated nearly four degrees southward of the line, and is about 
15 miles in length and five or six in breadth. It is remarka- 
ble on account of a very lofiy peak, supposed to be about TOO 
feet above the level of the sea. It is a bare rock or column of 
granite, nearly perpendicular, but slopes a little to its base to- 
wards the north. The soil of this island is fruitful ; and it 
possesses a good open bay, with good anchorage in ten fathoms 
water, which is protected by a fort built upon an adjoining chff, 
But as this island is singular in its natural appearance, so it 
is perhaps no less remarkable for being the only inhabited spot, 
of simi»lar extent, on the surface of the globe, where no women 
are allowed to come, it being allotted to male criminals, who, 
with a small garrison and a number of priests, compose the 
whole population. Perhaps also there is not any equal body 
of men on earth, that exhibit at once so much holy mummery, 
and so much human depravity. 

This island, from being almost in the direct track of vessels 
trading from Europe to the Brazils, and its vicinity to the main 
land of South America, would, if possessed bv a naval power, 
disturb the whole commerce of this part of the continent. 



DESCRIPTION 

OF THE 

NATIVE TRIBES 

OF 

AMERICA. 



•T^HE aborigines of America, throughout the whole extent of 
the two vast continents which they inhabit, and amongst 
the infinite number of nations and tribes into which they are 
divided, differ very Uttle from each other in their manners and 
customs ; and they all form a very striking picture of the most 
distant antiquity. By taking a general view of the whole, the 
peculiarities that distinguish the most important tribes will be 
more easily perceived and understood. 

The people of America are tall, and straight in their limbs 
beyond the proportion of most nations : their bodies are strong ; 
but of a species of strength rather fitted to endure much hard- 
ship, than to continue long at any servile work, by which they 
are quickly consumed ; it is the strength of a beast of prey, 
rather than that of a beast of burthen. Their bodies and 
heads are flattish, the efi'ect of art ; their features are regular, 
but their countenances fierce; their hair long, black, lank, 
and as strong as that of a horse. The colour of their skin a 
reddish brown, admired amongst them, and improved by the 
constant use of bear's fat and paint. 

When the Europeans first came into America, they found 
the people quite naked, except those parts which it is common 
for the most uncultivated people to conceal. Since that time, 
they have generally a coarse blanket to cover them, which they 
buy from us. The whole fashion of their lives is of a piece ; 



4 



702 NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 

hardy, poor, and squalid ; and their education from their infancy 
is solely directed to fit their bodies for this mode of life, and to 
form their minds to inflict and to endure the greatest evils. 

Their only occupations are hunting and war. Agriculture 
is left to the women. Merchandise they contemn. When 
their hunting season is past, which they go through with much 
patience, and in which they exert great ingenuity, they pass 
the rest of their lime in an entire indolence. They sleep half 
the day in their huts, they loiter and jest among their friends, 
and they observe no bounds or decency in their eating and 
drinking. Before we discovered them, they had no spirituous 
liquors; but now, the acquirement of these is what gives a 
spur to their industry, and enjoyment to their repose. This 
is the principal end they pursue in their treaties; and from 
this they suffer inexpressible calamities; for, having once be- 
gun to drink, they can preserve no measures, but continue a 
succession of drunkenness as long as their means of procuring 
liquor lasts. In this condition they lie exposed on the earth 
to all the inclemency of the seasons, which wastes them by a 
train of the most fatal disorders; they perish in rivers and 
marshes; they tumble into tlie fire; they quarrel, and very 
frequently murder each other; and, in short, excess in drink- 
ing, which with us is rather immoral than destructive, amongst 
this uncivilised people, who have not art enough to guard 
against the consequence of their vices, is a public calamity. 
The few amongst them, who live free from this evil, enjoy the 
reward of their temperance in a robust and healthy old age. 

The character of the Indians is striking. They are grave 
even to sadness in their deportment upon any serious occasion ; 
obsei'vant of those in company; respectful to the old; of a 
temper cool and deliberate ; by which they are never in haste 
to speak before they have thought well upon the matter, and 
are sure the person who spoke before them has finished all he 
had to say. They have therefore the greatest contempt for 
the vivacity of the Europeans, v.'ho interrupt each other, and 
frequently speak all together. Nothing is more edifying than 
their behaviour in their public councils and assemblies. Every 
man there is heard in his turn, according as his years, his 



NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 703 

wisdom, or his services to his country, have ranked him. Not 
a word, not a whisper, not a murmur, is heard from tlie rest 
while he speaks. No indecent condemnation, no ill-timed 
applause. The younger sort attend for their instruction. 
Here they learn the history of their nation ; here they are in- 
flamed with the songs of those who celebrate the warlike ac- 
tions of their ancestors; and here they are taught what are 
the interests of their country, and how to pursue them. 

There is no people amongst whom the laws of hospitality 
are more sacred, or executed with more generosity and good- 
will. Their houses, their provision, even their young women, 
are not enoug-h to oblige a guest. To those of their own na- 
tion they are likewise very humane and beneficent. But to 
the enemies of his country, or to those who have privately 
offended, the American is implacable. He conceals his senti- 
ments, he appears reconciled, until by some treachery or sur- 
prise he has an opportunity of executing an horrible revenge. 
No length of time is sufficient to allay his resentment: no dis- 
tance of place great enough to protect the object : he crosses 
the steepest mountains, he pierces the most impracticable 
forests, and traverses the most hideous bogs and deserts for 
several hundreds of miles, bearing the inclemency of the sea- 
sons, the fatigue of the expedition, the extremes of hunger and 
thirst, with patience and cheerfulness, in hopes of surprising 
his enemy, on whom he exercises the most shocking barbarities, 
even to the eating of his flesh. To such extremes do the 
Indians push their friendship or their enmity ; and such in- 
deed in general is the character of all stronsj and uncultivated 
minds. 

Notwithstanding this ferocity, no people have their anger, 
or at least the shew of their anger, more under their command. 
From their infancy they are formed with care to endure scofls, 
taunts, blows, and every sort of insult patiently, or at least 
with a composed countenance. This is one of the principal 
objects of their education. They esteem notliing so unworthy 
a man of sense and constancy, as a peevish temper, and a 
proneness to sudden and rash angei*. And this so far has an 
effect, that quarrels happen as rarely amongst them when they 



704 NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 

are not intoxicated with liquor, as does the chief cause of all 
quarrels, hot and abusive language. But human nature is 
such, that, as virtues may with proper management be en- 
grafted upon almost all sorts of vicious passions, so vices natu- 
rally grow out of the best dispositions, and are the consequence 
of those regulations that produce and strengthen them. This 
is the reason that, when the passions of the Americans are 
roused, being shut up, as it were, and converging into a nar- 
row point, they become more furious ; they are dark, sullen, 
treacherous, and unappeasable. 

A people who live by hunting, who inhabit mean cottages, 
and are given to change the place of their habitation, are sel- 
dom very religious. Some appear to have very little idea of 
God. Others entertain better notions : they hold the existence 
of the Supreme Being, eternal and incorruptible, who has 
power over all. Satisfied with owning this, which is tradition- 
ary amongst them, they give him no sort of worship. There 
are indeed nations in America, who seem to pay some religious 
homage to the sun and moon ; and, as most of them have a 
notion of some invisible beings, who continually intermeddle in 
their affairs, they discourse much of demons, nymphs, fairies, 
or beings equivalent. Though without religion, they abound 
in superstitions ; as it is common for those to do, whose sub- 
sistence depends, like theirs, upon fortune. Great observers 
of omens and dreams, and pryers into futurity with great 
eagerness, they abound in diviners, augurs, and magicians, 
Avhom they rely much upon in all affairs that concern them, 
whether of health, war, or hunting. Their physic, which may 
be rather called magic, is entirely in the hands of the priests. 

The loss of any one of their people, whether by a natural 
death or by war, is lamented by the whole town he belongs to. 
In such circumstances, no business is taken in hand, however 
important, nor any rejoicing permitted, however interesting 
the occasion, until all the pious ceremonies due to the dead are 
performed. These are always discharged with the greatest 
solemnity. The dead body is washed, anointed, and painted, 
so as in some measure to abate the horrors of death. Then 
the women lament the loss with the most bitter cries, and the 



NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 705 

most hideous bowlings, intermixed with songs, which celebrate 
the great actions of the deceased, and those of his ancestors. 
The men mourn in a less extravagant manner. The whole 
village attends the body to the grave, where it is interred, ha- 
bited in their ir.ost sumptuous ornaments. With the body of 
the deceased are placed his bow and arrows, with what he va- 
Jued most in his life, and provisions for the long journey he is 
to take : for they hold the immortality of the soul universally, 
but their idea is gross. Feasting attends this, as it does every 
solemnity. After the funeral, they who are nearly allied to 
the deceased conceal themselves in their huts for a considerable 
time, to indulge their grief The compliments of condolence 
are never omitted, nor are presents wanting upon this occasion. 
After some time, they revisit the grave ; they renew their sor- 
row; they new clothe the remains of the body, and act over 
again the solemnities of the first funeral. 

Of all their instances of regard to their deceased friends, 
none is so striking as what they call the feast of the dead, or 
the feast of souls. The day of this ceremony is appointed in 
the council of their chiefs, who give orders for every thing 
which may enable them to celebrate it v/ith pomp and magni- 
ficence. The riches of the nation are exhausted on this occa- 
sion, and all their ingenuity displayed. The neighbouring 
people are invited to partake of the feast, and to be witnesses 
of the solemnity. At this time, all who have died since the 
last solemn feast of that kind are taken out of their graves. 
Those who have been interred at the greatest distance from 
the villages are diligently sought for, and brought to this great 
rendezvous of carcases. It is not difficult to conceive the 
horror of this general disinterment. ' Without question,' says 
Lafitau, ' the opening of these tombs displays one of the most 
striking scenes that can be conceived ; this humbling portrait 
of human misery, in so many images of death, wherein she 
seems to take a pleasure to paint herself in a thousand various 
shapes of horror, in the several carcases, according to the de- 
gree in which corruption has prevailed over them, or the 
manner in which it has attacked them. Son>e appear dry and 
withered ; others have a sort of parchment upon their bones ; 

4 TT 



706 NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 

some look as if they wei'e baked and smoked, without any ap- 
pearance of rottenness; some are just turning towards the 
point of putrefaction; whilst others are all swarming with 
worms, and drowned in corruption. I know not which ought 
to strike us most, the horror of so shocking a sight, or the 
tender piety and affection of these poor people towards their 
de})arted friends ; for nothing deserves our admiration more, 
than that eager diligence and attention with which they dis- 
charge this melancholy duty of their tenderness; gathering up 
carefully even tHe smallest bones ; handling the carcases, dis- 
gustful as they are, with every thing loathsome; cleansing 
them from the worms, and carrying them upon their shoulders 
through tiresome journies of several days, without being dis- 
couraged by their insupportable stench, and without suffering 
any other emotions to arise, than those of regret, for having 
lost persons who were so dear to them in their lives, and so 
lamented in their death."* 

This strange festival is the most magnificent and solemn 
which they have ; not only on account of the great concourse 
of natives and strangers, and of the pompous reinterment they 
give to their dead, whom they dress in the finest skins they can 
get, after having e^cposed them for some time in this pomp; 
but for the games of all kinds which they celebrate upon the 
occasion, in the spirit of those which the ancient Greeks and 
Romans celebrated upon similar occasions. 

In this manner do they endeavour to soiith the calamities of 
life, by the honours they pay their dead ; honoui's which are 
the more cheerfully bestowed, because in his turn each man 
expects to receive them himself Though amongst these sa- 
vage nations this custom is impressed with strong marks of the 
ferocity of their nature ; an honour for the dead, a tender 
feeling of their absence, and a revival of their memory, are 
some of the most excellent instruments for smoothing our rug- 
ged nature into humanity. In civilised nations ceremonies are 
less practised, because other Instruments for the same purposes 
are less wanted ; but it is certain a regard for the dead is an- 
ciant and wniversal. 



NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 707 

Though the women in America have oenerally the laborious 
part of the economy upon themselves, yet tliey are fai" trom 
being the slaves they appear, and are not at all subject to the 
great subordination in which they are placed in countries 
where they seem to be more respected. On the contrary, all 
the honours of the nation are on the side of the women. They 
even hold their councils, and have their share in all delibera- 
tions which concern the state ; nor are they found inferior in 
the part they act. Polygamy is practised by some nations, 
but it is not general. In most tliey content themselves with 
one wife ; but a divorce is admitted, and for the same causes 
that it was allowed amongst the Jews, Greeks, and Romans. 
No nation of the Americans is v/ithout a regular marriage, in 
which there are many ceremonies ; the principal of which is, 
the bride's presenting the bridegroom with a plate of their corn. 
Incontinent before wedlock, after marriage the chastity of 
their women is remarkable. The punishment of the adultress, 
as well as that of the adulterer, is in the hands of the husband 
himself; and it is often severe, as inflicted by one who is at 
once the party and the judge. Their marriages are not fruit- 
ful, seldom producing above two or three children, but they 
are brought forth with less pain than our women suffer upon 
such occasions, and with little consequent weakness. Probably, 
that severe life, which both sexes lead, is not favourable to 
procreation. And the habit unmarried women have of pro- 
curing abortions, in which they rarely fail, makes them more 
unfit for bearing children afterwards. This is one of the rea- 
sons of the depopulation of America ; for whatever losses they 
suffer, either by epidemical diseases or by war, are repaired 
slowly. 

Almost the sole occupation of the American i^.-war, or such 
an exercise as qualifies him for it. His whole glory consists in 
this ; and no man is at all considered until he has increased 
the strength of his country with a captive, or adorned his 
house with a scalp of one of its enemies. When the ancients 
resolve upon war, they do not always declare what nation it is 
they are determined to attack ; that the enemy, upon whom 
they really intend to fall, may be off his guard. Nay, they 



708 NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 

even sometimes let years pass over without committing any act 
of hostility, that the vigilance of all may be unbent by the 
long continuance of the watch, and the uncertainty of the 
danger. 

The day appointed for their departure being arrived, they 
take leave of their friends ; they change their clothes, or what- 
ever moveables they have, in token of mutual friendship ; their 
wives and female relations go out before them, and attend at 
some distance from the town. The warriors march out all 
drest in their finest apparel, and most shewy ornaments, regu- 
larly one after another, for they never march in rank. The 
chief walks slowly on before them, singing the death song, 
while the rest observe the most profound silence. When they 
come up to their women, they deliver up to them all their 
finery, put on their worst clothes, and then proceed as their 
commander thinks fit. 

The qualities in an Indian war arc vigilance and attention; 
to give and to avoid a surprise ; and patience and strength, to 
endure the intolerable fatigues and hardships which always 
attend it. The nations of America are at an immense distance 
from each other, with a vast desert frontier, and hid in the 
bosom of hideous, and almost boundless forests. These must 
be traversed before they meet an enemy, who is often at such 
a distance as might be supposed to prevent either quarrel or 
danger. But, notwithstanding the secresy of the destination 
of the party that first moves, the enemy has frequent notice of 
it, is prepared for the attack, and ready to take advantage in 
the same manner of the least want of vigilance in the aggres- 
sors. Their whole art of war consists in this : they never 
fight in the open field, but upon some very extraordinary oc- 
casions; not from cowardice, for they are brave; but they 
despise this method, as unworthy an able warrior, and as an 
affair in which fortune governs more than prudence. The 
principal things which help them to find out their enemies, 
ai'e the smoke of their fires, which they smell at a distance al- 
most incredible ; and their tracks, in the discovery and distin- 
guishing of which, they are possessed of a sagacity equally 
astonishing; for they will tell in the footsteps, which to us 



NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 709 

would seem most confused, the number of men that have 
passed, and the length of time since they iiave passed ; they 
even go so far as to distinguish the several nations by the dif- 
ferent marks of their feet, and to perceive footsteps where we 
could distingnish nothing less. A mind diligently intent upon 
one thing, and exercised by long experience, will go lengths at 
first view scarcely credible. 

When they discover an army of their enemies, their way is 
to throw themselves flat on their faces among the vvithered 
leaves, the colour of which their bodies are painted to resemble 
exactly. They generally let a part pass unmolested; and 
then, rising a little, they take aim, for they are excellent 
marksmen, and setting up a most tremendous shout, which 
they call the war-cry, they pour a storm of musket-bullets 
upon the enemy ; for they have long since laid aside the use 
of arrows : the party attacked returns the same cry. Every 
man in haste covers himself with a tree, and returns the fire of 
the adverse party, as soon as they raise themselves from the 
ground to give the second fire. 

After fighting some time in this manner, the party which 
thinks it has the advantage rushes out of its cover, with small 
axes in their hands, which they dart with great address and 
dexterity ; they redouble their cries, intimidating their enemies 
with menaces, and encouraging each other with a boastful dis- 
play of their own brave actions. Thus being come hand to 
hand, the contest is soon decided ; and the conquerors satiate 
their savage fury with the most shocking insults and barbari- 
ties to the dead, biting their flesh, tearing the scalp from their 
lieads, and wallowing in their blood like wild beasts. 

The fate of their prisoners is severe and cruel. The people 
of every village shew their attachment to their fi-iends by their 
barbarous treatment of these unhappy victims. After mourn- 
ing for the loss sustained in the war, they rush into an extra- 
vagance and frenzy of joy for their victory. 

In the mean time, the fate of the prisoners remains unde- 
cided, until the old men meet, and determine concerning the 
distribution. It is usual to offer a slave to each house that has 
lost a friend ; giving the preference according to the greatness 



710 NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 

of the loss. The person who has taken the captive attends 
him to the door of the cottage to which he is dehvered, and 
with him gives a belt of wampum, to shew that he has fulfilled 
the purpose of the expedition, in supplying the loss of a citizen. 
They view the present which is made them for some time ; 
and, according as they think him or her, for it is the same, 
proper or improper for the business of the famil}', or as they 
take a capricious liking or displeasui'e to the countenance of 
the victim, or in proportion to their natural barbarity or their 
resentment for their losses, they destine concerning him, to 
receive him into the family, or sentence him to death. If the 
latter, they throw away the belt with great indignation. Then 
it is no longer in the power of any one to save him. The na- 
tion is assembled, as upon some great solemnity. A scaffold 
is raised, and the prisoner tied to the stake. Instantly he 
opens his death-song, and prepares for the ensuing scene of 
cruelty with the most undaunted courage. On the other side, 
they prepare to put it to the utmost proof, with every torment 
which the mind of man, ingenious in mischief, can invent. 
They begin at the extremities of his body, and gradually ap- 
proach the trunk. One plucks out his nails by the roots, one 
by one ; another takes a finger into his mouth, and tears off 
the flesh with his teeth ; a third thrusts the finger, mangled as 
it is, into the bole of a pipe made red-hot, which he smokes 
like tobacco. They then pound his toes and fingers to pieces 
between two stones; they cut circles about his joints, and 
gashes in the fleshy parts of his limbs, which they sear imme- 
diately with red-hot irons, cutting and searing alternately ; 
they pull off this flesh, thus mangled and roasted, bit by bit, 
devouring it with greediness, and smearing their faces with 
the blood, in an enthusiasm of horror and fury. When they 
have thus torn off the flesh, they twist the bare nerves and 
tendons about an iron, tearing and snapping them ; whilst 
others are employed in puUing and extending the limbs them- 
selves, in every way that can increase the torment. This con- 
tinues often five or six hours together. Then they frequently 
unbind him, to give a breathing to their fury, to think what 
new torments they shall inflict, and to refresh the strength of 



NATIVE TRIBES OF AMERICA. 711 

the sufferer, who, wearied out with such a variety of unheard- 
of torments, often falls immediately into so profound a sleep, 
that they are obliged to apply the fire to awaken him, and re- 
new his sufferings. 

He is again fastened to the stake, and again they renew 
their cruelty : they stick him all over with small matches of 
wood that easily takes fire, but burns slowly ; they continually 
run sharp reeds into every part of his body ; they drag out 
his teeth with pincers, and thrust out his eyes; and lastly, 
after having burned his flesh from the bones with slow fires ; 
after having so mangled the body that it is all but one wound ; 
after having mutilated his face in such a manner as to carr3r 
nothing human in it ; after having peeled the skin from the 
head, and poured a heap of red-hot coals or boiling water on 
the naked skull; they once more unbind the wretch, who, 
blind and staggering with pain and weakness, assaulted and 
pelted upon every side with clubs and stones, now up, now 
(iown, falling into their fires at every step, runs hither and 
thither, until one of the chiefs, whether out of compassion or 
weary of cruelty, puts an end to his life with a club or a dag- 
ger. The body is then put into the kettle, and this barbarous 
employment is succeeded by a feast as barbarous. 

The women, forgetting the human as well as the female na- 
ture, and transformed into something worse than furies, act 
their parts, and even outdo the men, in this scene of horror. 
The principal persons of the country sit round the stake, 
smoking and looking on without the least emotion. What is 
the most extraordinary, the sufferer himself, in the^ little inter- 
vals of his torments, smokes too, appears unconcerned, and 
converses with his torturers about indifferent matters. In- 
deed, during the whole time of his execution, there seems a 
Contest between him and them wiiich shall exceed, they in in- 
fecting the most horrid pains, or lie in enduring them with a 
firmness and constancy almost above human. 

They are governed by a council of elders; but business of 
consequence is determined in a general meeting of the whole 
tribe. Murder is either revenged, or compromised by the 
parties concerned; and each family claims a iiiU right of judg- 



712 NATIVE TRIBES OP AMERIciV * 

ment relative to crimes committed in the same cabin. The 
Indians that have had a long intercourse with Europeans 
seem to be greatly degenerated, both in physical and mental 
qualities. Those of different nations, and from different parts 
of America connected with Canada, come annually to Quebec, 
to Montreal, and to other military posts, to receive the pre- 
sents which the governments annually distribute amongst 
them ; and they are thus described by a recent traveller : — 
' Conceive to yourself a parcel of men, women, and children, 
huddled together under a wigwam, formed of pieces of wood, 
.seven or eight feet in length, the ends fixed in the ground, 
*and meeting at the top, form a kind of sloping frame, which 
is covered with the bark of the birch-tree, to keep out the in- 
cjemencies of the weather — a very poor covering indeed. 
They are /t«//"naked, xoliolly covered with dirt and oily paints, 
and swarming with vermin ; diminutive, and weakly in their 
persons and appearance ; and having a physiognomy, in which 
you look in vain for ti'aces of intelligence. I do not mean to 
say that they are without the reasoning faculty, but they cer- 
tainly are very stupid. I understand that their numbers de- 
crease every year, — if they were wholly extinct, I do not think 
that human nature would be a great sufferer by it.' 

The ravages occasioned amongst the aborigines of America 
by the effect of spirituous liquors and the small-pox, added to 
the gradual encroachments of civilized states, must, at no very 
distant period, annihilate the whole race. Several tribes have 
already become extinct ; and others, once very powerful, are 
much reduced. The Society of Friends, in the United States, 
have lately sent proper persons amongst the Ifidians, in order 
to teach them the arts of agriculture and civilized life. Those 
who resign the practice of war and hunting, and apply them- 
selves to the culture of the soil, may preserve the existence of 
a part of the native race, long after their peculiar habits are 



lost and forcjotten. 



FINIS. 



Priiftt'd hy Mackenzie and Dc".i. 



